BigTreeTech - SKR Mini E3 v3.0 - Chris's Basement
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 29. 06. 2024
- Big Tree Tech sent us a new SKR Mini E3 v3.0. We'll take a look at the board, do a quick install, and of course, a test print time-lapse!
00:00 Intro
01:31 Mini E3 Overview
05:35 Installation
10:04 Boot up
12:06 Firmware
13:52 Sweet Benchy Time-lapse
15:24 Conclusion
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Link to JST Connectors on Amazon:
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Link to Github firmware:
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So...Chris....you keep talking about why its important to go over hook up even though you've done it before. That was the part of this video most important to me. When I realized they had changed the hook ups (removing the fan screw in), I was like...wth? Opened the instructions which referred to one hook up as hb, which I had no idea what that meant and they didn't define it. I hooked it up, thinking maybe it meant heated bed, but I wasn't sure. Your video helped me VERY much by confirming where that fan went and what needed to be in the screw down plugs. Also, I had all my fans hooked up in the wrong place. LOL Thanks for taking the time to go over hook up again. That is what I needed to see. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Awesome to hear, I am glad these are still useful.
Man, I am so glad you are so passionate about helping out the community. If it was for you, I'd probably would have given up. Thank you so much, and keep up the great work!
I appreciate that!
The tutorial for getting everything plugged into the board is still super helpful for those of us just getting into it!! Keep up the good work man!
Thanks! Will do!
Loving the vids!
Nice pace, well done documentation, easy to understand lingo, and overall just a good approach on giving out information to the masses!!
Long time viewer, so keep up the good work as you always seem to do.
And be well!!
Glad you like them!
Thanks so much for the in-depth instructions. I've had my printer for 2 months now so I' new to this. I added this upgrade and the difference in the sound is amazing. Can't wait to learn more uses for it.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching
Great video man! Love stayin up to date with ya. The new set is so nice !
Awesome! Thank you!
Appreciate the installation guide. I just went to install mine and was scratching my head trying to figure out how to connect the hot end fan. I just assumed I would be able to plug and play. This video cleared things up.
Glad it helped!
Thank you for still making these videos!đ
Glad you like them!
clear and straightforward explanation, nice work dude!
Thanks!
Thanks Chris, for a good review, I am looking forward to install this based on your guidance..
Thanks for watching! Good luck with your projects!
Just ordered mine after shorting my 1.2 when brushing of my nozzle đ Damn those naked cables on the heater... đ Thanks for the video, it really helps with the initial setup! đ Please continue making these even if its just a new version with some minor improvements đ
Thank you! Will do!
Done the same thing on two different printers and boards. Connect a fuse on one of the cables. This way you should have no problems with blown boards.
If you're lucky itÂŽs only the heater circuit and/or thermistor circuit thatÂŽs blown, but the rest can work.
Using klipper you can add the board as a auxiliary board, to run more steppers, more controlled fans, etc, etc.
Great video as always Chris! I just got this board to replace the v2.0 (my USB port broke off). I had some pre-wired JSTs that I could solder to the fan wires, and discovered that there are two standards for polarity with JSTs. There is the original RC standard which is opposite to this board, and there is also, for lack of a better word, Arduino standard, which is correct. Just wanted to mention for folks that get pre-wired JST plugs.
Thanks a lot!
Reading your comment a bit too late myself đ
It's the first video I see from this channel. Really good quality and nicely explained, and most important, nice guy!. Congrats from Spain! :)
Thank you
great review! still waiting on my boards. Basement remodel looks sick!
Thanks, it was a lot of hard work!
Thank you for all the information, by Ender 3 pro board died yesterday and I got the BigTreeTech - SKR Mini E3 v3.0 and had trouble finding all the info I needed to fit it, you filled in all the holes without taking forever to get there. Thanks, I have subscribed to keep up with all the changes
Glad I could help. Thanks for the sub!
Good review. I have had really good results with my BTT boards - 5 mini V2 and the Octopus. They have a good product at a reasonable price.
Thanks Dave, for the most part I have had really good luck with these.
Got my board yesterday! Thanks for the video
Hope you enjoy it! Good luck with your projects
You're the man Chris! Love your work
Glad you enjoy it! Thanks
This is great review. Thank you for all the effort.
Thanks for watching!
Nice review! The difference MCU chips make us hesitate to swap from E2, hope it will soon official supported by Klippers. BTT have awesome quality, we used around 1300pcs on Voron 0.1 Kit abs no any issues so far.
Thanks Jason, that's a good point that I didn't think of.
Wow. There must be so many vorons without serials. The v0 only has a little over 1k serials.
@@Apophis-en9pi I think 60% of our sells already to the final users but they may have chance to assemble it; still a lot on the way to distributors; global shipping is mess now.
Thank you Chris for this review. I bought the board after watching this video
Hope you enjoy it!
I accidentally bought this board back in November as an impulse buy and I'm so glad I did, it looks great
đđ
Fantastic, have one on the way. Great video!
Awesome! Thank you!
Appreciate you. I was struggling to find a good video with someone showing the entire process.
I just got an Ender 3 Pro a few weeks ago as a cheap intro to 3d printing. It works great, it's just way too loud to be sitting 5ft away.
With some fan upgrades, the new SKR mini and a couple other things hopefully we can get it down to a more manageable level.
Thank you, good luck with your projects!
Excellent video. I was concerned about fan location. Other videos did not even explain it. Thanks you so much for making such a quality video.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you very much, there's alot of wrong wire diagrams floating around and your the only person to show exactly where things go. Thank you very much for putting up clear directions. Any other youtube video and I would have gotten multiple things wrong
I'm happy to help! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the great detail!
Thanks for watching
Picked up a used CR10 recently and was looking for a board. Didn't realize this was THIS new when I bought the v3 last week. Hopefully we'll have a config by the time it arrives.
Good luck with your projects
The video Iâve been waiting for!
me too! Thank you Chris! Now I will buy it!!!!!
Thank you!
Thanks for the great video, Chris
Glad you enjoyed it!
I'm so glad you did this video
Thank you
Hi Chris I love the video and it perfectly explained everything I needed to know! I'm currently looking into getting a different board for my Ender 3 pro because it died just the other day
I'm so glad I could help. Good luck with your projects
I bought this board ,, arrived today, my V2 Turbo started giving heater error ( E-1) I'm thinking the thermistor plug on the board. I had replaced the orginial hot end and both heater block and thermistor, still got the error a few times.
Installed this E3 V3 board and 1st print was very nice with stock firmware.
It must have been that thermistor circuit on the board, in case anyone has this issue. I can see no problems on the old boeard.
Thanks Chris for another great video, always appreciate your expertise and time !!
Thanks, this setup video helped quite a bit! Now I just have to wait for someone to tune it and upload a .bin for an ender 3... my prints aren't coming out as good as the stock board/firmware
Good luck!
Thanks for a great video!
Glad you liked it!
I bought 2 of these boards, they've been sitting on my desk for a week now waiting for me to install them. I would love a follow up on this video about the sensorless set up. Thanks Chris
You just enable sensorless homing in your firmware and bridge sensorless homing pins with included little red bridge. I found it worst and more worrying than using actual switches and it's not that good as advertised. May be i am missing something important but it's from my experience.
Thanks @hobbyist notes as stated, it's very strait forward.
@@hobbyistnotes you are missing something important. the stall detection threshold needs to be tuned for your steppers! if it's not, it will not work as well as it could if it were properly tuned.
Thanks dude, u always make my day!!
Glad to hear that! Thank you
Merry Christmas Chris đ
And a Happy New Year!!!
Thank you for this video. As a person new to your channel, and new to replacing main boards, I'm glad that you took the time to explain the details, like using ferrules, the need to add a JST for the parts fan, typically fan 0 is for parts cooling, etc. Remember, nothing is old to us new guys! Again, thank you for taking the time to mention all of the little details which helps when researching board swaps.
I am just a little confused about "no firmware" available. You say that they offer stock .BIN files on their GITHUB site, but I am not sure if I need to load these .BIN files or if they come preinstalled. Can you confirm what I would need to do to run standard Marlin, no BL touch.
Board comes with standard firmware. So if you dont have bltouch or anything fancy just swap it and youll be fine
Thanks!
@@deathcube2006 what if I'm replacing a anet a8 plus v1.7 board with this could I use standard firmware but adjust parameters
This video just helped me a lot!
Great, thanks for watching!
Looks sweet!
I like it too!
Chris really is the king of board upgrades on youtube. I'm pretty sure he can do these board upgrades in his sleep :-)
I'm so going to get one of these boards for my Ender 5 plus. It needs a 'silent board', but these are cheaper and have way more features and a far better processor.
Lol, thanks
That artifact line that you get on a benchy is exactly where the plimsol line would be, a plimsol line is a line marked on a vessel signifying the maximum water level for that particular vessel
Cool! Thanks for watching
Nice bit of trivia. Never knew what that was called. I'm not sure if that line actually shows in the slicer or STL renders though. Most people say it's an artifact from an internal feature. Maybe the deck layer, can't quite remember.
Thanks for the video Chris. I have two z steppers installed, would it be better to use the split cable or two separate cables and are there any issues to be aware of with either option? đ
Both options should be exactly the same. I would just go with 2 cables I think.
Didn't plan on an upgrade, but my new Sprite all-metal hot end has a bltouch connector that won't fit into the BTT SKR Mini E3 v2 (it has a port for it, but it has a form-factor for a three-pin and a two-pin connector, instead of a straight-5 pin connector). Great video for covering everything I needed!
Awesome, glad it help with your project.
And... I also did get the yellow duck, the crown of victory on my board upgrade!!!
I have moved way past the Ender series printers, but still have my very first old original Ender 3 standard. I recently upgraded it with this board and the CR Touch! It has many other upgrades, and still prints very well! I have two Anycubic Kobra 2 V2 that prints at 150 mm/sc. These print in a fraction and came with runout, power resume, auto mesh leveling, and direct drive extruder, all for $200.00.
That's awesome! Those Enders are pretty good!
I bought one because the mosfett on my first printer failed. Thanks for the tips! Hope I can get mine up and running
Good luck!
@@ChrisRiley it is all up and running!
Would love to get a tutorial on firmware, troubleshooting, I have mine installed but I don't have the 2 pin connector for one of the fans unfortunately (yet) now if they don't work I would love a video explaining more about it and how to solve it, great video by the way this is exactly what I've been looking for ever since i got the V3 for my ender 3!
Hey, when Marlin gets updated for the board I will look at doing a firmware setup video.
Hey! I just got mine installed and got to build my own firmware. As said in the video, there is not marlin in the github yet, but in the btt github theres a marlin build you can work on. Just unzip in a directory and work from there! There is not much to do on it since it is preconfigured but you can tweak the bltouch and the stock settings.
@@deathcube2006 Oh nice! Thanks for the info.
@@ChrisRiley Wonder why this is taking so long? I've never seen Marlin so slow to support a board.
@@deathcube2006 Do you have a link to this zip by chance?
This was really helpful.
I'm glad, thanks for watching
Great Video Chris, a breath of fresh air as per. I got all the steps right in my installation except for the part cooling fan. It just doesn't work I've tried a lot to say the least. I do know for sure that the fan itself is working and I'm dealing with a firmware issue. The latest version of marlin I've tried is bugfix2.1
Strange, if the wiring is correct and it doesn't come on when you run a M106 S255 then it has to be something wrong with the board.
I was beginning to think so myself until I compared the pinout on the V3 board Vs those published on their site and the firmware. Turns out on the pin diagrams, the pins are listed as :
HB - PC6
E0 - PC9
Fan2 - PB15
Fan0 - PC7
Fan1 - PC0
Whereas the firmware defines them as
#define HEATER_0_PIN PC8 // "HE"
#define HEATER_BED_PIN PC9 // "HB"
#define FAN_PIN PC6 // "FAN0"
#define FAN1_PIN PC7 // "FAN1"
#define FAN2_PIN PB15 // "FAN2"
Chris, great video! A few questions...I just ordered 3 of these to upgrade three CR-10S 3D Printers. (Ah, silent drivers!) The LCD for the CR-10 ha two cables so I am curious where the second would go? I'm also interested to know if the USB UART/Bus is improved? I know for many older boards, using Octoprint, if you tried to print too fast (more than 50 mm/s), you could incur some defects from the board's UART unable to keep up. (There' a few threads about this on the Octoprint forum) Thanks! Looking forward to receiving mine!
Paul, the display will need a Y adapter cable (also available from BTT via Amazon) to work with the CR10S display.
@@BenEBrady good to know, thanks!!
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This video was super helpful for getting this board into my cr10s5! Only issue is I'm now stuck with getting firmware loaded on for the device
I hope this helps, thanks for watching
github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/bugfix-2.1.x/config
Thanks my guy! your channel is fantastic for an upgrade newb like me.
Glad to hear it!
Youâre the best, Thank you so much!
Thank you
great overview, would this board be good for my new ender 5 Plus? been looking for a good silent replacement and I have been happy with the skr mini E3 v2.0's on my ender 3's?
Yeah, it should work just fine for that. The only thing you don't have would be independent Z motors if you wanted it.
Thank you Chris!! BTT just release the firmware for this board! đ€đŒđ„
Great, Thanks!
Chris, great video as usual. I am just in process of upgrading my Ender 3 Max, trying to improve first layer printing. I got a second Z screw and motor and wanted to add G34 gantry levelling. The SKR Mini E3 V3.0, looked like a great update so I did the two upgrades at the same time. Counting Driver output sockets instead of driver chips when the board makes the Z outputs link to the same driver! OOPS! my bad should have been more careful. Ender 3 MAX has 2 part cooling fans and the V4.2.2 board has 2 input connectors. Confusing, but worked it out. BTT diagrams, I downloaded all the docs from Github as usual, on the wiring diagram illustration the 3 hard wired ports DC In, HB and HE0 are all marked grey and green. HEADS UP! DC IN + and - are colour coded reversed against the other 2 inputs. Not complaining to you, but hope this may help someone else. Thanks for all your work.
This is great info, thanks!
Thanks Chris. Bought the 4.2.7 board only to have the common Mosfet fry a few month later. Went with BTT 3 but was confused by the missing terminal block below the main input. Thanks for clearing that up. The Mosfet on the BBT is huge. Did you go ahead and put a heat sink on it?
Thanks for watching! Mine has been running pretty well so far. I didn't put the heatsink, but it couldn't hurt.
Thanks Chris. I guess my take on it is if you need a board, V3 is good, but not worth an upgrade from 1.x, or 2.0 -> 3.0 .
What do you think of the E3 Turbo?
Totally agree, turbo is fine, I actually kind of like the LPC chip better on the turbo, but it really doesn't matter a whole lot.
Hey man love your vids! I was wondering if you have any tips in regards to custom builds using this board? I have been able to compille a firmware version but I am having issues in finding how to setup the current limit? As I am going to use different steppers than the standard Creality ones. Thank you so much for your work!
Thanks! You would have to get the motor specs from where you bought them. The most common NEMA 17 motors, 800mAh is usually more than enough. I would start low and increase the current slowly until they stop skipping. If the motors get too hot, then the current is too high.
Iâm thinking of updating my ender 3 main board 1.1.5 finally, and was wondering if youâd recommend this v3 board over the v2. Will you be doing a follow up on this board.
Yes, I would get this one over the v2, it just have more features. I will be using this board in more videos coming up.
That is what I need , I have a Ender 3 pro that is very loud and fans run all the time ⊠Great video
Thank you!
Hello Chris! Loved the video and it's what convinced me to get an SKR Mini E3 v3.0, however I'm running into an issue where the Part Cooling Fan runs during Preheat and Manual Control via the firmware, but not when I put on a print. Is this a gcode issue with Cura or a firmware issue? Any response will be greatly appreciated, thanks!
I have seen that before. I can't remember, but I think it was Cura that caused it. Export the Gcode and serach for M106, if it's not there, then cura has taken it out somehow.
Just wanted to say thanks for this video and review. As I'm in the situation that I have the SKR Mini E3 v2 and SKR v1.4 Turbo right now configured pretty well on my Ender 3 and Ender 5 Pro, I'd like to change out both printers to this board but then I also saw your other review on the SKR 2...
I'm kinda torn on which boards to get from your reviews. Either the SKR Mini E3 v3.0 or the SKR 2? Out of the two which one would you go for?
I already have the 2209's from the SKR 1.4 Turbo, but because each of these new boards have all three fans for PWM, it's like which one to get??
Really both are great, I like the form factor of the mini. The only thing I would go for the 2 for is that 5th driver if I wanted to use 3 extruders on indepent Z motors.
@@ChrisRiley thanks for the input! Your videos are so good and detailed. I think Iâll go for the 2. Also the fact that you can add wifi to the board is a huge plus as well!
@@EatMoTacos You're welcome, not on the wifi, RRF seems to be the only firmware that supports it as of now.
Hello Chris, this video was really amazing and I am trying to get into 3D printing myself can you make a much more in depth installation tutorial from basically a completely new ender 3 as I am going to buy one in the future and I think a few steps were skipped especially with locating where to install it and using the ferrule kit and doing the JST connectors. Thanks!
1. JST connectors are difficult when you are learning for the first time. A couple of ways to go on that. This is a great video explaining how to do JST connectors. czcams.com/video/SGwrfrt8KJw/video.html
You can go with a ratcheting crimper or a simple hand crimper (imo, ratching is easier but both work)
2. Ferrule connectors. simple rule. snip off the soldered dipped wire and strip new wire lead. crimp use the smallest size ferrule that works for each wire.
Amazon, Ebay, etc. all have kits for ferrule and jst. a cheap kit for the hobbyist should be fine.
Here's a link to the E3 V3 manual
github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/blob/master/hardware/BTT%20SKR%20MINI%20E3%20V3.0/Hardware/BTT%20SKR%20MINI%20E3%20V3.0%20user%20manual.pdf
And, if you wish to use the ender 3v2 stock lcd, marlin has updates now for the LCD, so you should be able to use it with the BTT board (assuming you make a custom cable for pins to line-up and are willing to compile Marlin yourself)
Hey Kent, these are great resources. Thanks for taking to time to share.
Nice. got one for my ender 2 ( yeah I know) a couple of weeks ago after the original board failed.
Currently trying to setup the auto bed levelling. Inductive prove. fingers crossed.
Good luck with your projects!
Did you get your bed leveling to work? I am having troubling getting it to work with this new board.
@@TheChriswhite77 Actually, I never tried. I only have it on a manually leveled printer.
@@TheChriswhite77 hi chris . yeah i did.. just of the top of my head i think i had to go into one of the config files and reassign the pins. let me know if you still having probs and i will see if i have kept any records,.
I just have a few questions . How would I use the sensor-less homing feature of the board? Do I just plug in the jumper plugs? Do I need to update firmware? Thanks :)
Yes, put the caps on. Yes, you would have to turn it on in the firmware.
The slow boat finally arrived and I have this board in hand now. Plan is to replace the stock Ender 3 board + LCD with this one and the touch screen. I also have the BTT UPS board that I need to add. Based on your BTT UPS video it appears like at this point it cannot be used with this board since Marlin cannot yet be compiled for it? Or is it possible to set it up without recompiling?
Check out Marlin 2.0.9.3, it has a config for this board now in the creality ender 3 examples folder.
Have they increased the copper content of the board? I suspect not because if they had you wouldn't need that big heatsink. Top vid as alwaysđ
Thanks Shaun, it looks to be about the same.
I didn't hear you mention a fuse, though it looks like they included one. Anything to do with safety is an improvement.
I have the skr e3 mini v2, if I was to be upgrading the mainboard, I would probably buy the v3.. looks like their going in the right direction, but as you said usb-c would have been nice for futureproofing.
I did mention this to them, but they wasn't interested and even seemed insulted, even though I was polite to them..
Thanks for watching!
What's the size compared to the prusa enisy board? Hope It's roughly the same so I can upgrade my mk3s đ
Thank you for your time and thanks for the video
Yes, they are pretty close to the same size.
Very helpful thank you. With the pairs of wires that are the same color how do you know which is positive and negative
Thanks! Which wires are you referring to?
Does this version have a jumper to prevent the USB (octoprint) from back feeding power to the board? I think their RRF did. I always hate the LCD screen on when I have it the main switch off but the octoprint plugged in
Yes it does, it uses the same type.
I just put a tiny bit of tape over the power on the usb a side
How did you get octoprint to detect the printer? I can't get it to detect it...
I love the smell of new circuit boards... squeek squeek
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Great video, The Z-offset change no longer works in real time like on the original board, does it work for you?
I didn't try it, but it's probably a Marlin issue. When Marlin rolls it into the main branch that should fix it.
I ordered one of these boards for my stock ender 3 pro. is it required that I put those JST plugs on the fan wires? I just dont have the supplies to do so right now, I was hoping to do this on a budget lol
It's going to be pretty hard if you don't. You could get some pig tails and splice them or solder them? amzn.to/3O8V34p
Thanks for the video Chris, It helped me to make the decision to go with it instead of the creality board. I installed this on my ender 3 pro with marlin firmware. I printed one benchy with a defect at the upper part of the wheel house about three layers that didn't print correctly, otherwise a great print. after I calibrated the PID on the nozzle and bed I tried to calibrate the e steps. now the stepper motor just "twitches" and never turns. any idea what it could be?
Hmmm, only thing I can think of is maybe a M92 motor setting got set incorrectly.
@@ChrisRiley thanks Chris, you led me in the right direction just had to change path to hardware. I changed the stepper motor and it working now. How do I calibrate my esters with a direct drive setup? đđ»
@@jimmorgan7765 It would be the same, you can follow this guide. czcams.com/video/r0GiAmZiQBE/video.html
Can you set the stepper motor current. I didn't see any trim pots. Thanks Chris! Your videos are so helpfull.
Yes, depending on the firmware you can run a command to set it. In Marlin it's M906.
How would this stack up against a SKR 2 for my ender 5+? Planning on buiding a heated chamber, so my guess is the SKR 2, but I'm not sure
SKR2 has a lot more pins to play around with for sure. Plus you could do independent dual Z.
Love the reviews everytime very informative. Any chance you could do an mainboard upgrade using this on an anet a8 plus đ
Stay tuned!
@@ChrisRiley of course I took a swing at trying to figure it out (3 days later) đ figured it out. I havent done anything more complex than copy and pasting config files before and well this was ruff but doable. But come to find out if your adding a tft at the same time in your config.h the display had to be changed to cr10 stock display no the discount reprap full graphic did not work was odd but once I figured this out was able to compile
in the ender 3 pro in the green sockets there is a fan, the first 2 negative and positive, you don't say the cables where they are placed, and by the way, what fan is it? and on the board that you show there are only 2 connections for the bed and the hotend.
Check the pinout for polarity. Fan0 is the part fan, fan 1 or 2 can be the hotend fan or controller fan. github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/hardware/BTT%20SKR%20MINI%20E3%20V3.0/Hardware
Iâd like to upgrade my sv01 to a silent board. What board should I get ?? I would like the fan control this board has. Iâve never upgraded a board before, but I do have bl touch and Marlin 2.0 on it
This one would probably be a great choice for that printer.
I got 2 of these in the last 2 weeks....no ducks!
Out of ducks!!! No!!!!!!!!
For the BTT Mini 12864 LCD's there's a way to wire and mod the firmware to work with the neopixel pins and EXT connector since it's missing EXT1 and EXT2. It's a pain but it's available and no SD support unfortunately.
Nice! I didn't know that, thanks Mitch!
Thanks for the video! Do you think this would be worth installing on a Voxelab Aquila?
I looked that printer up, it might be a good fit for it, but I have never looked at it's mainboard. You might have some issues getting the stock screen going.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks for the response! Would you recommend any replacement screens that would work?
One thing to point out on these, the one feature they're missing that might be a reason to not get it - While it has two z stepper plugs, there's not independent steppers for Z, so you can't do auto-tramming with it with Marlin.
Thanks for your insight!
BTT has boards that do that, I was thinking of getting another Octopus and trying that on my Ender 5 Plus. I really like the way it works on my Rat Rig
@@woodwaker1 Yeah, the SKR E3 Turbo can, too.
PSA: The problem w/ "forcing" 512 on a 256-locked chip is that most times a 512 was deemed unstable but 256k was usable. Pushing code into that other half can cause unsafe/hazardous behavior.
That's true
Thank you Chris for the video but I am having some trouble that you might know how to fix. I put in the board and everything but it is stuck on the bugfix marlin section when I boot it up. I can't think of an issue that would cause this, thanks
That's not good, it won't post. About all I know to do is unplug all the connections except the LCD and see if it will post. Also, you might try reflashing with firmware from the BTT github.
@@ChrisRiley Thank you for the reply, I figured out that the firmware was not flashing unless I reformated my sd card. odd problem
Yes, cool looking HS that reminds me of PC hardware. It doesn't appear to have efficient surface area (i.e. lacks fins) for heat transfer to the air though. Nothing a 5015 wouldn't overcome though. Looks like a decent amount of copper on the back if one wanted to add more HS.
But it does look cool!
Probably a dumb question. But would the current version of Marlin work on the V3? I'm lost and frustrated as to what I can get done
Marlin isn't there yet, but it will be very soon for the V3.
Board works great, especially with the BTT TFT35 V3.0, even with USB jumper installed, can't connect to Pronterface, Cura, or Octoprint (Windows or RPI), Pronterface and both Windows and RPI see the com port, but won't connect to the printer. I should say it works great if I use a thumb drive in the screen USB port, but I can't center my prints.
Edit: Right after I posted this comment I had a lightbulb moment. I built and compiled a scratch build of the latest bugfix Marlin, I had the serial port configured wrong in Marlin.
#define SERIAL_PORT 2
#define SERIAL_PORT_2 -1
This is the right way, I've already forgotten the wrong way I did it.
Nice find! Yes, more than one serial bus makes it work like you have done here.
video is awesome and I got everything together, my only issue is that when I turn my printer on the screen lights up, but nothing else shows up, I turned off my printer in fear of something being wrong but I'm unsure of what to do about it.
Even if it's blank, it should be okay to turn it on. It's probably a firmware config. Do you know what screen this is?
I am completely new to klipper. I have a pitft43 , biqu h2, and a skr mini e3 v3 on the way. Can you make an idiots guide for getting it set up? It seems more complicated than I initially thought and I don't want to screw anything up. I am on an ender 3v2 with dual z and a bltouch if that matters. I also already have a pi 3b+. Thank you in advance for even reading this.
Hey, I will do my best to get something made for this.
I realize this is an old post but how come I can not get a SD card reader extension to work? I use the 3D-printed rear-mounted control box that TeachingTech uses to relocate the hardware for my Ender 3. This board seems to work differently than the 2.0v.
I don't know, I would think SD card extender would work just fine.
I got my board installed, good firmware, however when i try and move the Z axis, it also moves Y axis as well. I get no movement with X, but when i I try the Y axis movement it moves X axis. Any thoughts?
Whoa, that doesn't sounds good. That sounds like there might be a short of the board somewhere.
4:03 "Right over here we have an on-board EEPROM" while pointing at a diode. Oh well, at least I got a laugh.
đ
hi could you help, ive fitted the e3 v3 to my ender 5 pro and the test print is very stretched in the z axis.
i also have the biqu h2 v2 extruder fitted
I'm guessing you will have to update some of the setting in the firmware for the ender 5 as the board defaults to an ender 3. You can update some of these commands in eeprom so you don't have to flash new firmware if you use a tool like pronterface. www.pronterface.com/
How long did it take to get yours? I ordered mine early December and it seems to have been sitting at Oâ Hare airport for the past week and a half.
Seems like everything has slowed way down. Hopefully things will pick up now that the holidays are over.
have you been able to do an update on the marlin firmware for this board yet? i need to add filament runout sensor
Yes, they have the board in Marlin now. I show a bit of that in this video. studio.czcams.com/users/video0WDfluszvd0/edit
Question before I get one... My ender 3 pro has the SD and usb slot on the upper left instead of the bottom right... is that because the board is upside down on my older ender 3 pro? as my fan is also on the bottom of that box where the board is....
Yes, some ender 3's the board is flipped over, these boards should still fit.
@@ChrisRiley Thank you,... one more quick question.... What is a Thurmister? LOL
I really know what you meant... had to mess with ya... thanks again for the reply..getting ready to put my new board in now...
This may not be the right place for this, but I had replaced my motherboard and hotend fan (that are normally always on) with noctua fans that required buck converters to drop the always on 24V to the 12V that the fans use. What voltage do the V0/V1/V2 JST spots run at? I'd like to still use the noctua fans with the JST spots but don't know if I need to adjust the buck converters, remove them, or replace them with boost converters, any recommendations? Forgive me for the shoddy phrasing, electronics are not really my forte.
Hello, yes, all those fans are going to run at input voltage, so whatever the PSU runs at, these fans will as well.
@@ChrisRiley thanks Chris! I saw some 5V and 3.3V power options with the board information and wanted to be sure. Thank you for your help, sir!