Ford Tractor Dash Replacement
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- čas přidán 19. 04. 2022
- The new dash came from All States Ag Parts. It's not an exact replica, but it's close enough. Ford dashes were a weak point on these tractors, but you can beat them to death elsewise and they'll keep running. The most annoying part of the new dash is the thickness coming out the back for the tach cable. It rubs on the fuel tank. The fuel gauge functions fine. The temperature gauge is a little off. Once the engine is up to temp, it reads Hot without the engine over heating. Both dashes do this. Maybe the sending unit on the block is not a proper match for the new gauge. The gauges work by variable resistance to current on the ground side.
The tach needle did calm down after 100 hours on both dashes, must be a "new" thing. I am not sure what other manufacturers offer a replacement Ford dash, but I wonder what the temp gauge does. I looked into swapping the old gauge into the new dash. It wouldn't fit. - Věda a technologie
Nice to have all those lights working to give you the indications of things you need
Sure feels good when a repair finishes positive.
Lol, I get it, an electrical joke.
Very nice watching this video, like the old Ford, work hard and runs smooth
Great awesome video Jacob , sounds fun replacing the dash
A dab of dielectric grease or even any grease would help keep those bulbs from sticking in the sockets, a couple squirts of motor oil in that tach cable or pulling the inside out from that end and greasing it with lithium type (white grease) probably would have done wonders for the bouncing, if it don't have a drastic bend in it. (Outside cable). If I have all that work taking out the dash, I automatically would have replaced all the bulbs regardless. Then I would have took a paint marker under the dash cover or made a metal tag stamped out and noted present hours on old unit. Just suggestions, mind you. Other than that, it was a good show. 👍✌️
I had a similar problem on my Ford 5200 Row Crop... we used it for spraying and the tach had quit and so it was a guessing game getting the ground speed right. I finally replaced the tach, but it wasn't cheap and had to buy it from Ford back then. Unlike the early 80's 6600 Ford we had, which ran off a "dummy" gear running where the distributor would be off the camshaft, the '68 5200 ran off a worm gear on the back of the generator shaft. I had the generator go out like a couple years before and replaced it so I figured now I'm all set. Well, one day I came in from the field and pulled up to the leg tank and dieseled up, and just about as I was finishing filling up, suddenly smoke started POURING out from under the hood, and a small valve cover gasket leak that had let oil get all over the side of the block, the oil slick caught fire... I shut the leg tank valve off right quick, hung up the nozzle, and capped the tractor fuel tank, and ran around for the hose to find my brother had moved it somewhere else, so I grabbed a shovel and started throwing dirt on the side of the block, which quickly snuffed the fire out. The generator had suffered some sort of short and it burned up the wiring harness. Well, I was PO'd because I'd spent well over $150 bucks on the tach and had replaced the generator a year or two before and it was like $150 bucks, and generators never put out a lot of power, unlike alternators. I wasn't going to spend THAT kind of money on a stupid generator again, so I decided I'd just install a Chevy mid-70's alternator in its place. They make a "one wire alternator" with a self-exciting internal regulator, but they're kind of expensive and totally unnecessary, as the regular mid-70's Chevy alternator only uses three wires... a big red one running off the lug in back (charging wire), and a brown and red one that plugs into a two-prong connector on the side of the alternator at the back that plug directly into the regulator. The brown one is an exciter wire that sends 12V from the key switch when it starts to energize the field coil in the rotor. The red one beside it senses the voltage of the battery and adjusts the alternator output to prevent overcharging the battery. Easy peasy to wire up.
First problem was the fried harness. I pulled it off the engine and unplugged it back at the "firewall" by the fuel tank, since all the damage was in that part of the harness, took it in the house at the kitchen table, cut the cladding off it and started peeling apart damaged wires, and replacing the burned ones and taping up burned insulation where they melted into adjoining wires. Once everything was in good shape, I then re-wrapped the harness with electrical tape-- good as new. Now the problem was, I couldn't just bolt a Chevy alternator in the generator's place, because there's no worm gear sticking out the back shaft of the alternator to run the tach like there was on the generator. SO I had to keep the generator to spin the tach. I didn't need it to generate electricity, so I pulled it off, took it apart, and used a cutting wheel to zip off all the burned windings on the commutator and core and pulled the mess out with pliers... big bird's nest of burned copper wire. Now I had a bare core, so I cleaned up and repacked the small shaft bearings so it'd spin again, and removed the brushes from the case since I didn't need the commutator to generate power anymore, and left the fan off the pulley, and put the generator back in its place, now just to spin the tach cable. I mounted the Chevy alternator right below it, which was inline with the pulleys although it stuck out a bit further but it wasn't a problem. I ran a wire from the key switch "hot in run" to the brown wire double-terminal on the side of the alternator, and a short red wire from the other one down to a ring connector that fit over the charging stud on the back of the alternator for a voltage sensing wire. Then I ran a heavy gauge wire from the charging output stud on the back of the alternator around to the battery cable connector stud on the starter to charge the battery. For safety I installed two 70 amp fuses, one on either end of the wire. The reason for that was, if the tractor was running and developed a short in the charging wire, the alternator would go "full field" and pump the maximum current it could out into that wire and burn it, so I needed a fuse between the alternator output stud and the wire itself. If the tractor was parked and somehow the wire shorted, the battery would backfeed through the wire and cause it to get white-hot and start a fire, so to prevent that a fuse between the battery cable terminal on the starter and the charging wire would prevent it from backfeeding the wire in a short condition. While I was at it I installed an ammeter on the wire to show how much current the alternator was putting out.
SO I ran a tape measure around the pulleys to figure out how long of a belt I needed since it now had to come off the crankshaft pulley, up over the water pump, over to the generator pulley, and instead of off the generator and back to the crank pulley, now it had to go down and around the alternator pulley as well. I found a problem, though... the belt was gonna rub on the side frame of the bolster in front of the engine. SO I went in the shop and found an old flat-back idler pulley off an '82 Ford Crown Vic we'd bought for parts for Grandma's old car, and took it out there and lined it up. I grabbed a short piece of angle iron and torched a bolt hole in it to bolt to the bolster, and then lined the pulled up and welded it to the angle iron. Got a longer belt and slipped it on and voila, perfecto, worked like a champ! The belt wrapped around the crank pulley, up over the water pump, over around the generator/tach drive pulley, down around the alternator pulley, and then over around the idler pulley to keep it off the bolster side frame, and then back down around the crank pulley again. Worked like a champ.
Probably about 6-8 years later we decided to trade the old girl off on a new 5610S... I figured that the dealer would scrap all my engineering solution and just go back to the factory generator and external regulator (which I had left hooked up but had NO idea if it still worked or not after the generator had fried itself). He ran the tractor through the shop and fixed some stuff on it, repainted it, and put it on the used lot... I looked at it one day and found that no, they'd left my dummy generator and alternator setup exactly the way I'd installed it... so I guess I did something right!
Later! OL J R: )
Very informative video. Thanks Jacob
I am so glad you are doing this on your 2910!, I just got a new cluster with no instructions and wasnt sure where to hook up hot wire from ignition. I found a picture of one online and it shows hot wire hooked up on the "B" terminal but gauges dont work, I'll put hot wire on the "I" terminal!.
Fantastic that you can get those after market. If that was a dealer only part. That cluster would have probably far exceeded the value of the tractor.!
Wow, I just went thru that with my Ford 5000 last year, as well as changed out the generator that didn’t work to an alternator. The problem was the alternator needed to have a Tac cable attachment to run the new gages. As it turned out, the gears for the alternator were the wrong gears so the Tac ran about 4000 rpm’s higher than it should. I had to get a new gear set and that fixed it.
Cheap way to get a zero hour(s) tractor. Repop stuff is always hit or miss.Of course you have to make do with what's available.Good work Jacob.
Just needs a Dupont overhaul to go with those zero hours.
doing a ford 5000 this week with a dash from the same company this helps a lot
Replaced a few clusters over the years. I always take a paint pen and write the date changed and hour meter reading from from the old cluster on the back of the new cluster.
You're making me want to change the bulb that's burned out for the voltage gauge in the dash of my White. It's nice when they work like they're supposed to.
Many thanks for this video....Well done I am working on a Ford 3000 3 cylinder diesel. Hope my wire colors are the same as yours......
Good stuff stay safe
Cool job.
What ever happened to the IH 2+2?
Hello Jacob looks good maybe the rpm cable is worn to much. I just replaced mine last year and rpm gage is steady now. You could see mine had rounded corners that would make it slip. Have a good day.
Another issue is the cable probably needs some grease or oil in it to run smooth.
Well that was a good video
You didn't clean the sockets out with electric spray - suggestion only
i just changed out new cluster on mine today, your video helped me a lot. Only thing right now not working is the two single wire lights that light up the whole panel i put new bulbs in but still not working. Do you know size or part number for the single light socket with wire
I always oil the tach cable. Takes the crazy ness from the needle
Where’s the 2+2 international and the ford TW
I always replaced all the bulbs whenever I had to replace one.
❤just repairng same thing on a7000 👍🏻😂
how many hours were on the old dash?
I wonder if there are aftermarket parts for my
old tractor. It is 73 years old from 1949.
Hola buenas noches tengo un Ford 6600 y necesito el cable largo del tacómetro para indicar las rpm de mi tractor,.
New T-Shirt I Farm = I must Fix. lol
I ordered a few of those years ago and they were junk. Tach quit working with 2 hours.
How much hp does a 2910 have? We have a 4610 with a loader on it and I think it’s around 50 to 55 hp.
It's close to 40. But it's 40 with ass, not like these little kubotas claiming 40 and only been good for mowing the lawn.
@@boehmfarm4276 oh ok, yeah their a great utility tractor with some power.
Tractor data says 44 hp at the flywheel, 29 hp at the drawbar.
Where can I vent the dash for my Ford 5000 tractor please help
Hi I think on the volt regulator b mean’s battery and I means instrument I could be wrong though
Where did u get the gauges at
All states ag parts
👍👌🇨🇦❤
I put a new dash cluster in my Ford 5000 a couple years ago. Anyone else have issues with the temperature gauge always reading in the hot? I know it's not overheating, you can place your hand on most any part of the block while it's reading hot. Just curious if anyone else has seen that the temperature gauge isn't very useful.
Same problem with my Ford 4610, runs right close to the red, I’m trying to find the external temperature gauge, mine has a 16 mm pipe fitting. Seems like no one can find one to fit it.
Anyone know where I can get a Simms Minimac 3-cylinder diesel injector pump?
For what model? I've usually seen the three cylinders with CAV pumps.
I have a good one in Ontario