Part 9/10: 3.6 Pentastar engine left cylinder head removal (the short cut)
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
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Part 1/10: Upper air filter housing and intake inlet removed. • Part 1/10: 3.6 Pentast...
Part 2/10: Upper intake removed along with all related connectors and hoses. • Part 2/10: 3.6 Pentast...
Part 3/10: Radiator fan removed, coolant drained, disconnecting the lower intake components. • Part 3/10: 3.6 Pentast...
Part 4/10: Lower intake removed, front brackets unbolted, valve cover removed, serpentine belt removed. • Part 4/10: 3.6 Pentast...
Part 5/10: Alternator unbolting, cam timing marks painted, cam phasers removed. • Part 5/10: 3.6 Pentast...
Part 6/10: Cam shafts removed, lifters removed, rocker arms removed, catalytic converter unbolting. • Part 6/10: 3.6 Pentast...
Part 7/10: Engine mount removal, front timing bolts removed, Left cylinder head removed. • Part 7/10: 3.6 Pentast...
Part 8/10: Replacement head features explained, timing chain tensioner removed and reset, cleaning engine block surface, left cylinder head installed. • Part 8/10: 3.6 Pentast...
Part 9/10: Left cylinder head bolts installed and torqued, lifters installed, rocker arms installed, cam shafts lubed and installed, cam bearing caps installed and bolts torqued. • Part 9/10: 3.6 Pentast...
Part 10/10: Cam phasers installed and torqued, valve cover and lower intake installed. Bolt sequence and torque specs for valve cover, lower and upper intakes explained. • Part 10/10: 3.6 Pentas...
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Link to this video: • Part 9/10: 3.6 Pentast...
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I like the way you list the torque specs at the top left. That's really clean and gets through language barriers.
+briansmobile1 Thanks man....I see that we both have the same schedule next week! Its sound like it will be a good time.
You sir, are amazing. I've been following all of these to do my wife's van. Couldn't have done it without you
I've saved $1,000 by following your steps, thank you very much sir! excellent video!
Awesome.....nothing like saving money, especially when its that much. Thanks for the comment and feedback. Make sure to subscribe.
I want to Thank you for your videos. I was able to rebuild the upper engine of my 3.6 Penstar. Your videos are far superior to the others. I like your shop music too. You always have a place to visit here in fayetteville NC. Cheers mate.
Thank you as well for checking the series out! Glad it helped out in the end. Yeah the music in the back ground is a by product of working at the shop and trying to film. Some like....some hate. Make sure to subscribe!
I like the music too. In the one video I was watching with my wife I said “hey that’s Jimmy”! Unfortunately she had no idea who Jimmy was, but it was it does bring me back to my dealer garage days with those old heads playing z93 classic rock🥰
Excellent video, explains each step very well. Thank
Many thanks! Appreciate you watching and for the comment. Make sure to subscribe
From one Tech to another GREAT JOB BROTHER
Great info in video. My 2011 GC laredo v6 is going in for this exact repair on 9/21
Thanks for watching. Now you know what the repair will require when you take it in for that issue. Appreciate the comment and make sure to subscribe
Great work on this video series. I was able to do the repair with complete confidence and no surprises in the process.
Thank you..
It’s a big job so my hats off to you for taking it on
Doing great so far, thanks for all of this. I've been keeping track of all the steps I took so that I could do everything in reverse order. You skipped over reinstalling the engine mounts and I was wondering if you had torque specks on the bracket bolts and the mount bolts. Thanks again. Tom
I heard you can’t do the short cut on the right side head is that true
While showing the torque sequence, that looked like the right hand head not the left.
Any Trick to getting the head back onto the dowel pins without pushing the timing cover seal out? It's obviously a very tight fit and seems tricky.
Excelent information
Thanks! Appreciate you watching
WHOA - very interesting head bolt torque sequence! Question: because the torque spec FINISHES with degrees of rotation and NOT torque values, do the head bolts ALSO need to be replaced when doing a head job on account of head bolts stretching?
If the head bolt has stretched, then 130 degrees rotation is not going to be as tight as it would be with a new bolt, correct?
btw love your videos - is definitely a working mechanics video
The bolts can be reused multiple times. They need to be checked each time with a straight edge to make sure to no stretching is found. So far I havent found any that have. Thanks for watching and make sure to subscribe
@@MotorCityMechanic It's interesting that the head bolts for this engine aren't torque to yield. I'm newer to the mechanic scene (just graduated auto tech school a year and a half ago) and I've always been told to always replace the factory head bolts on an engine because they're torque to yield and they'll either bottom out or break if you reuse them. How can you tell whether or not a head bolt (or any bolt for that matter) is torque to yield?
@@CaptainRudy4021 For the most part Chrysler doesnt use torque to yield bolts expect on certain engines. You pretty much have to check the service info on each one to see if they are.
Awesome video. Very informative
Great tutorial, you make this sound easy, I’m following your videos and changing both head gaskets on my 2012 grand Cherokee. Quick question, do I have to replace the head mounting bolts? I have 200k on my engine.
Does anybody have the sequences when removing the head bolts ?
He showed the sequence only when installing head bolts, I believe that’s all I saw. But Great video man . Thanks a lot !
Do you have to measure how much you go on the bolts when you tighten the bolts ?
Great video series, first i want to thank you for taking the time and going over this procedure... I have a question - what do you recommend i use for lubing the threads for the head bolts and cam caps? After thoroughly cleaning the threads in the block and head as well as the bolts (im using new head bolts) should i use a LITTLE copper never seize or motor oil or wd-40? I refuse to install them dry, especially because its aluminum im threading into...also i believe ill get a better torque with some lubricant.. Any thoughts and opinions/recommendations will be appreciated!! Thanks!
A similar yet probably standard now…. I read not to use anti seize anymore on spark plugs. There was a really good article put out by a spark plug manufacturer that said that living the threads will reduce the friction at the thread interface. ( I’d agree with that so I kept reading). They said that if the friction isn’t there and you keep turning the spark plug further past the bottoming out point you could pull the threads out of the head. So I would leave new plugs ( and these bolts) dry.
One thing I was looking for is if these head bolts were reusable or are they torque to yield. Years ago I had been reusing head bolds and had one snap off in the block while touring it up. Luckily it broke just above the block and I could pretty much turn it out at the fracture surface. I think for $80 I’d use new bolts on my own stuff.
@@BWeezy-sw1wy I understand what that theory is saying but I still wouldn't install plugs, head bolts/studs or any fastener without some kind of lubricant... That theory goes both ways.. Lubricant = smooth fastening - No lubricant = Friction - leading to inadequate torque spec, thread wear (especially aluminum) and corrosion within the threads over time.. IMO you shouldn't use a lot of lubricant.. "Just a dab will do ya", "less is more".....
That's just my thoughts on the subject.
@@BWeezy-sw1wy I hear ya on the head bolts.. I always use new ones.. even if it's not required lol... It's a lot of work if the used head bolts fail
FYI ppl - 106 lbs-in IS 8.8 lbs-ft - so @ 4:33 just reuse the torque wrench to do the 9 lbs-ft on the thermostat housing!
The issue I run into is that my larger ft/lb torque wrench starts at 20 ft/lbs so I have to jump back to my in/lbs version. So to keep it more accurate I use both. But if yours can go that low and still be accurate then for sure....grab it and run with it. Thanks for the info
Awesome video. My 2014 Durango is going thru it right now. Did you replace both heads or is it just a problem with the left side? An should I have them do both sides just to be on the safe side? Thanks again
The older 3.6 engines had issues with the left side only....design issue. I thought that was addressed by 2014. The older ones actually had the warranty extended because of that. If its one of the older design then just the one is needed.
Holy samoli. This is good for advanced mechanics. I would never attempt this, as I would be afraid to miss a step. Just out of curiosity, how many hours by the book is this? In the U.S. standard rate is $120.00 per hour.
warranty time is around 8-9 hours.....so I would assume without checking further into it that non-warranty should be around 12-14 hours. We charge just above $100.00 but it certainly varies for sure.
Great videos!!!!!
Did you replace head bolts?
The head bolts dont need to be replaced on this engine.....inspected yes but not replaced as a regular item to get replaced. Thanks for asking and make sure to subscribe.
Good video I have a 2017 wrangler that started to heat up on way to work. Didn’t reach the red overheat mark so I changed all cooling system components and it sends the coolant to the overflow and obviously if I would keep running it will over heat since no coolant is in radiator. Will that be be a bad head gasket? It runs perfect and I have no check engine light maybe air in system?? But I will do a block test tomorrow.
I ran a compression check on my 2012 T&C after P0302 repeated after a plug and coil. I got 90psi, after adding probably too much oil for a wet test it came up to 110. The rear bank all had 165psi dry. Should I take any info from the added psi wet?
For reference #4=135, then 190 wet #6=155 then 180 wet with just a cap full of oil.
The leak down test for #2 showed a 70psi loss when 100psi was added. It barely inflated a glove taped over the exhaust pipe. I tested with the valve cover over and at times when #2 was closed I could hear most air coming out #6 spark plug hole. It confused me until I noticed the exhaust valves were a bit open on #6. Not too easy to hear it coming out of the tail pipe. But actually as I type this I release that I added to pick up the next donut gasket past the catalyst because I had been witnessing an exhaust leak near the engine. Geez it’s been a while since I have needed to think about car repairs like this. So I thank you for your channel and all your help.
I like reading through all the comments and seeing what I can pick up on. I have seen in other videos guys leave the timing cover on too. But as someone mentioned here it might be difficult to keep that seal on the back side. I don’t want to pull the crank pulley if I don’t need to.
is the extra 130 degrees necessary?
I used your videos to replace the left cylinder head on my 2015 JKU. Found that all of the exhaust valves were leaking using a water test. My question for you is I over torqued 6 of my head bolts to 170 degrees, then I caught my mistake and loosened all bolts back to zero. I never removed the head, then re-torqued bolts to the final 130 degrees. Do you think I need a new gasket or head bolts because of this mistake? The engine is still tore down because I broke the timing chain guide and I am waiting on the replacement part. (had to pull timing cover “painful to say”)
I have oil in my coolant and suspect the Oil Cooler Adapter. I've removed it and all O rings are raised and appear to be in good condition. Is there any way to determine if the oil cooler is actually the culprit? Really do not want to remove the cylinder heads!!
If you have never ran it hot then the cooler will be the issue. You can’t see the leak location....it’s internal. I recommend replacing the assembly and you might have to flush the cooling system out a few times to get it all out.
@@MotorCityMechanic a few times, lol. The one I did last night took 3 flushes.
What about the OIL GALLY BOLTS!!!!!!
Yeah I had two codes pop up misfire on Cylinder 4 a no communication to the BCM. Took it to the shop an that was what it was diagnosis. So They’re going to order new heads, valves, gaskets and flash the BCM. Does that sound about right?
Both heads are not needed. If anything....only the left side. Issues in the beginning were with a design issue on the left head only. I still worry if they did diag it well to come to that point. If you can....email me the VIN and mileage and I will do some further checking.
@@MotorCityMechanic issues on the left bank head were for the seats popping out.
Are the head bolts lubed with anything? Oil? anti-seize?
Thank you for your excellent videos I’m in the process of replacing both heads on my 2016 jeep. Installed the heads last night went to attach the AC compressor and a bolt broke off in the head, had to take the head off to extract the broken bolt, is it OK to reuse the head gasket and head bolts after putting them on just the day before and not running the vehicle? Thanks again and keep the great videos coming :-)
I see no issues with reusing the bolts. The head gasket however I would replace. Last time I checked I thing it wasn’t expensive.
Thank you ! that’s what I did. Great videos. I have a 2016 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon with 130,000 miles. I just replaced both heads, head gaskets, timing change, roller rockers, and lifters and one bad cam. Also replaced the PCV valve, oil cooler, injectors, plugs and coils, all new gaskets. A lot of work but your videos made it easy :-) my baby runs like new again, thanks again.
@@sgtdukeM109rider that stinks that the newer ones are still messing up. I thought these were all on the campaign for 2011- early 2013 left heads only. Chrysler extended the warranty to 150k and 10 years for bank 2. Calling out that I causes P0302 which is what I currently have in my 2012 that is 6 months past the 10 year warranty but under the mileage by 30k. Looks like a $700 repair out of my pocket and maybe 15 hours of my labor (going slow) plus time learning and testing and giving up on the head.
I see you don’t have any right side videos would you say it’s the same or similar job to do
I have a 2018 300 with 60k on it with P0306 code . And my local dealer had to do the exact thing. What causes this issue and is it a common thing with these pentistar engine
Everyone has a different torque specs for their engines last torque from the last guy said it was supposed to be at 65ft others are 100ft lol
What's your opinion on Haynes manuals? My Haynes manual says to do the torque sequence that you showed but then to loosen all the bolts in the reverse order and then tighten them up again.
The service info states to do just that but I have learned that it makes no difference and is just more steps and more time spent that isnt needed. Either will work....I just have my preference. Thanks for asking and for watching. Make sure to subscribe.
Hey do the motor have to be pulled to remove timing chain cover?
No you dont, just everything has to come off the front of the engine
Is your shop located in GA?
Sure is....just outside of Augusta Ga.
Man, apparently it’s possible but I’m skeptical of doing it this way and not removing the front cover. When you ran your head bolts in you were literally pulling the head down.. it was moving all over… That head should be sitting over the dowels flat against the head gasket surface before you ever put a bolt in it. I’m not willing to sacrifice quality for a shortcut.
There is something i do not agree.
Why did you place the head gasket without flattening the block also ? Is actually, aluminium too, when the head gasket get overheats, also get overheats the block, so it must be corrected too because it humbles in the middle about 1mm in most cases ! This specific
engine 3.6L is defective since 2010 to 2014, until in 2015 Chrysler built another head gasket with more heat resistant materials, because the cooling system is terribly poorly designed.
Thats why i would exchange the thermostat by one begin to open at 82 degrees celcios, and reprogram the first step electroventilador speed from 18% to 35% or more, to ensure good cooling, for any reason would leave the engine temperature reaches 100 degrees celcios. I know that high temperatures are for the lowest consumption of fuel etc..., but, let's be honest, this engine does not support the high temperatures that the manufacturer says ! "Until Chrysler do something better about this engine, i will avoid overheats"
These engines dont have over heating issues. As far as flattening the block? Are you expecting me to remove the engine and send it to a maching shop to have it decked? The head is replaced due to a design flaw. That means no other issues and no need to do anything to the block. The issue with the 2011-2014 engines was the head design on the left side....nothing to do with running hot. Not sure where you are getting your info but its incorrect and has nothing to do with the repair performed in the video.
The info is all over the web, easy to find, and FCA have concern of that, but they do not want to attend this defect as a mandatory service action, because the cost is very high ! Anyway, i have had change several head gasked mostly in jeep GC 3.6l engine from 2011 to 2013 because it get over heats and as a result, the head gasket gets bend, as well as the block because the whole engine is aluminum and easy to bend due to hi temperatures, design problems, as I said before, due to the poor design of the cooling system, also the block were afected in every case, folded all in the middle, about 1 mm. And yes, I have corrected the blocks just on place, it is hard work, but not impossible and this is the only way in which it is fixed, if you place a new head gasked in a bent block, the problem will return in a short time! Tell me and be honest with me, did you have ever double check the block before exchange the head gasked ? Because nobody wants to do such work, at the end of the story the car will run with, or without bent block, is it? But it do not means, is fine.
PD: If the cylinder heats up, then the head gasket does not? What temperature do you think you have in an overheated cylinder? In all cases you have to change the two head gasked because it happens on both sides, and is not because the cylinder, i know you got experience, i respect that, but im telling you what I have seen and repaired, nobody dis not tell me nothing, experience too.
@@YoskelLopez The head was replaced for a design flaw causing a burnt exhaust valve seat....not overheating. They even extended the warranty for the left head due to the burnt exhaust valve seat issue for the first gen 3.6 engines. I have never seen an over heat due to engine design on the 3.6 unless someone had another issue where they lost coolant and ran it hot. You are reading too much into the video because you dont understand the reasoning for replacing the head. You keep mentioning over heat....over heat....over heat. Once again thats not the case in this video. No need to remove both head....both head gaskets...on and on and on. We are fixing a misfire/skip due to a head design!
MotorCity Mechanic maybe It is not the thread of this video, but this comment given to my experience, can affirm that i have found this problem in the above mentioned engines, and it can be maybe help for someone who is suffering this problem in his car. It is not my intention to disagree with you, i am just saying what i have seen and repaired until today, in fact, yesterday I finished a 3.6l engine with this problem. What can i say, this is whati saw, what im fixing mostly on jeep GC from 2011 to 2013.
Awesome videos, I'm about to do the Left Cylinder head, about to order it, however it says: "With Valves. WARNING: Cylinder Heads Are Shipped WITHOUT Oil Gallery Bolts/Plugs, Bolt/Plug Kit 68154699AA MUST Be Used Or Trouble Codes Will Be Set"... is there something else i need to order? appreciate any help
Any suggestions on hemi tick?
Depends on when the noise is present and how loud. Some tick will be normal. Loud and erratic could mean cam and lifters while only during first starting and goes away a few seconds or few minutes later could be a broken exhaust manifold bolt.
thanks for your response.
Your welcome
What about the OIL GALLY BOLTS!!!!!!