Don't void your warranty | 12v switched accessory power Tesla | Hardwire Install
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- čas přidán 26. 12. 2022
- Tesla will void your warranty if you incorrectly tap power from the wrong source. Hardwire your accessories the right way, carefully, and successfully.
Go to VCRight to find your 12v switched power to tap your accessories. Hardwire your radar detector with the correct accessory power.
You want the accessory to power down when you leave the car, even when Sentri is on. If you stick it in your cigarette plug, it may stay on for hours when Sentri is on. This is a better way, and you won't get any battery drain error messages from Tesla.
Also, put a fuse on the tapped wire, for protection. Depending on the application, I use a 10amp mini fuse (red).
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Thanks to PJ for the very informative video! Just finished this project today and it is working as expected. One thing I want to add is that you don’t have to sand and drill a hole to get ground. You can use the bolt right next to the wires (exposed after the 2nd panel is removed). Just loosen the bolt and sandwich the wire terminal in between.
thanks I was going to do that, but my model didn't have the hole.
Two questions if you want to install several accessories at that switched low V location:
1. How many amps would that support?
2. Is there a multi port block - like an add on small fuse box - that would work as the connection points for the accessories? In other words the tap into the switched Tesla wire and the ground wire would connect to the distributions block or add on fuse block.
Finally, I see where some of the more recent instrument panel displays are gettin power/ground direct from the low V battery. Since that doesn’t seem to be a good idea, could they also be connected to 2. above?
Very good videos,
Pete
Awesome video what year Tesla model y is this? looking to do the same to my 2022 Tesla model Y
Hello...I got my 2024 Model Y last week, trying to tap 4 different red wires and none of them work. Has anyone tried successful on 2024 Model Y? I appreciate for any advice.
Have you tried this method? I just got my MYP 2 days ago and was going for this route? Did you get it figured out?
How did you use the clamp meter to find the 15 volts by just clamping it on and not having to cut the wire and make contact?
Do you have any videos for running the wire across the dash? I have my radar detected mounted behind the screen using a magsafe mount and ring.
Thank you! Very helpful. Please make a video on VCLeft. I like to have constant on for 2ch dash cam and hoping for constant on to power a small fridge like the Dometic cfx3 35 in trunk of model 3.
I talk about the 3 options in VCLeft around the 2min mark here - czcams.com/video/fWUj4NB3Ezo/video.html
I have model y 2023. I found 3 red wires that are the same as video, but I couldn't find any 3 wires have 12vdc as I pressed the break. Does it 😢different circuit on the 2023 modelY?
The best!
Also 15v wouldn't be to much for the 12 v ?? I was looking for it on the web and found out that it will damage the life time device but not sure if that could happen 🧐🧐🧐
Sorry if I’ve missed it, but…. What Model is this? I’ve heard wiring is a little bit different slightly between MY and M3
Is it the same location and wires for the model S Plaid?
Can anyone confirm if this video applies to 2018 model 3?
Hey great video that's is what I was looking for so my plan is to install some underglow for my Tesla model 3 and the same for a model y performance the one I ordered are the OPT 7 which are 12 volts but I'm afraid of connecting them to the battery and also these are 2023 models which have a different 12v battery so I've been watching a lot of videos all day long on how to get a 12v power outlet from the car..and you got 😁😁😁but now my only concern is..... Can I attach the cables directly to that power lane or will I have to use another device for it to work?? 🧐🧐🧐 Because the lights are supposed to be ready and safe to attach them to the 12v battery with not problem but I don't want the lights to be on all day long so what do you recommend me ?
yeah, that's a valid concern because we're talking lights, since they generally burn out when overpowered. It doesn't affect radar detectors, and fuses protect against high amps. After my soundproofing project, underglow is next on my list. I have it planned out in my head but I haven't even bought my Suzco lights. may consider OPT7. It's going to be routed NEVER directly to the battery, but under the frunk, it will go through the firewall to connect to either VCRight or under the armrest, so I could attach a switch to it. That way, the monitor won't be on all day. There's not a huge difference btw 15v and 12v (it's not like 3v leds vs 12v power that could blow them - I've done that to my Christmas lights). But if it blows, it's not a time issue. it will blow in less than 30 seconds. I won't know until I try it out next month. Does your OPT7 have a power adapter after the plug, or is it straight 12V connection with no adapter? always use a 10A fuse, voltage is usually not a big concern. My main concern is how to make it stick permanently without drilling in tiny brackets. when it gets hot, even 3M tape starts to come off.
@@teslamods thanks 🙌 it really go to hear that I feel more safety to do it. And yes they do have a control box. And well to stick them we will drill probably just 2 holes because I just gonna install the sides and not front or back ..for those I'll try to install inside of the car that way I'll be able to notice if they go off and also because the interior is so dark I have the model 3 standard range
@@teslamods the rest I will stick them with 3m tape Holder and primer 94 that thing will hold it very good
Great video! Can you provide details on the tools and wiring accessories you used or links to buy them?
that's a great idea! I'll do that in a moment
@@teslamods Just finished the install in my 2022 M3P. Thanks for the tips!
@@charlesrice4023 nice! did you put in a radar detector, or something else?
@@teslamods valentine v1gen2 on a blendmount
Hello, how can I convert this to USB c output to power my dashcam?
But don’t you lose warranty anyways by cutting into the original harness. That’s not optimal in my opinion.
I always strive to leave original harness intact, so the day I uninstall everything, you wouldn’t know it’s been there in the first place…
where could i find a 12v continuous to run my dashcam ? the 12 volt switched which goes off when I lock the car is perfect, thank you
I get my constant 12v from VCLeft. czcams.com/video/fWUj4NB3Ezo/video.html
I found two thin red wires but one is constant and other just doesn't turn on. There's on slightly thicker twisted with green wire and then more thicker line. I think it's suppose to be thin one but that just doesn't turn on.
make sure you press on the brake to make sure all accessory wires are on. Then test if there's current in the wires. And there's more than 2 red wires, like at least 5. Only one of them is the accessory wire that only powers on when you press on the brake. It turns off when the car goes to sleep.
I found 2 red skinny wire that have 13v power. Thing is when driver is present, there’s power but when driver is gone, it stays powered for 10s or so then powers down, both wires. Is that the same wire you mentioned?
yes, if you're talking about the VCRight (on the passenger side), yes, that's the accessory wire which is perfect for your radar detector or any accessory you want to automatically turn off when you leave your car.
Hi PJ, I assume that switched wire keeps power whilst the car is running and not just when the brake is pressed?
yes, that's the whole point. and the main point of switched is that once you leave the car, it turns off.
@@teslamodsdo you know if this wire is on all teslas? I have a 2018 model s
I want to install ambient light that comes on whenever headlights or parking lights are on. Do you know where to tap it into in the headlight switch if there is one?
I used the footwell lights. But keep in mind the limited Power.
@@felixb6656 mine does not have footwell light
Always use a FEMALE connector on the live conductor, after the fuse.
Read this if you have a Right Hand Drive Tesla model 3 China build 11/2022
Hi PJ Oh how I would love to find the elusive "go high" wire when you sit on the drivers seat and put your foot on the brake.
So this is just a warning for Tesla Model 3 owners with Right Hand Drive (RHD) built in the Peoples Republic (China) build date November 2022
All the good work that PJ has documented is not correct for the RHD China Teslas. In this location there are 3 looms with plugs 2 some of these have a thicker red wire and multiple thinner reds and every other colour. I tested all the reds and anything that was low current and looked like a signal wire and could not find any wire that changes state when the driver sits in the seat and presses the brake.
The looms appear to be considerably different to the US Teslas
thanks for that! I know there are tiny differences btw the Fremont and Austin factory builds, but I didn't even think about RHD China. In my rear screens video, I show how to make your own accessory power using a relay switch. czcams.com/video/RMyG1dkfc3k/video.html
Hi and did you manage to find out how to hardwire the China made versions?
@@dodotesla
Hello Ondrej,
The simple answer is No. but I now have a switched power supply both for driving and parked that meets my needs. Read on if it helps. It's long but has details.
After disassembling the car to find the elusive red switched wire without success I decided to go a completely different route rather than chopping into my wiring harness. I think this is a bit safer fairly easy not for all purposes or applications but for my install it was what I needed
.
My install is a Thinkware front and rear dash cam. Driving mode requires a constant 12 volt supply at around 2.4 amp supply a second separate 12 volt switched supply activated when I leave the vehicle allows the Thinkware to automatically go to parking mode. Parking mode uses movement and vibration detection to film surroundings when triggered. It will use almost 2 amps when active and about 700 milliamps when sleeping
A bit of background. The 12 volt supply in a Tesla is actually it is closer to 15 volts but this should not be an issue for good quality electronic equipment remembering an ICE car has a charge voltage between 13.8 volts and 14.2 volts Most electronic circuits have zener diode across the input or voltage regulators built in to take care of voltage fluctuations. In the Tesla the cigarette lighter is ideal for driving mode simply find a place to splice into the supply wire. You can draw about 15 Amps through the cigarette outlet and as the car is active there is no problem with supply in driving mode the Tesla maintains the 12 volt battery and any load is on the cigarette lighter it is not monitored for current usage, so there are no fault codes unless you exceed 15 amps or introduce a short.
The problem I had was finding a way to enter sleep mode and supply the dash cam with a reliable power supply but not deplete the 12 volt battery during long periods of sleeping supply. The Tesla 12 volt battery is only 33 amp hour and the maths is basic. If you park your car outside potentially in a worse case scenario, you could deplete your 12 volt battery in roughly 15 hours of parking time. You don't want a flat 12 volt battery, whilst not the end of the world it is very annoying in a Tesla.
My solution is to use the cigarette lighter as the driving power supply and use a secondary battery for the parking mode. The secondary battery is charged whilst you drive it takes roughly 4-5 hours of charge time from dead flat to fully charged . The Tesla does not know there is another battery present and the circuit design methods used keep the two systems separate. I still have a parked time limit approximately 30 hours before the secondary battery will switch off but long parking times rarely get to 30 hours unless I'm at home and if I wanted longer parking times for sleep mode I could use a larger battery. The battery pack I'm using is about 100 mm x 60 mm and 20 mm thick. The electronics is housed in small plastic box about 50 mm x 70 mm and 30 mm thick. Basic soldering skills and a reasonable skill in electronics along with the circuit would be needed to make a similar system.
The cost for me to build this was about A$100 with simple components and easy off the shelf parts. I'll post a circuit diagram if required.
Do you know the power rating of a circuit you tapped to? I.e. what is the max current draw for that red wire? How many accessories can you tap to it?
Also could you recommend on where to tap for a constant on +12V? Some devices require both ACC and always ON
I believe that red wire has an electronic trip at 15 amps, but I wouldn't go past 10 amps, so I have a 10A fuse built in. 10 amps is plenty to power many typical accessories. The constant red wire is present in many places. The typical place to tap it is on the VCLeft, thick red wire. I'll show that in a future video, because I need constant 12V to charge my phone and tablet. Also, the armrest 12V plug blue wire is also constant.
@@teslamods thank you for the reply sir! Do you know if there's a +12VDC switched on when the car is unlocked regardless of the brake pedal? I.e. car is locked - 0, car is unlocked - +12VDC
@@awesomedn there may have been in the past on the VCLeft, but after several updates, none seem to exist right now, with the latest Christmas update. Tesla S/Y/3 doesn't care whether car is locked/unlocked; only cares whether car is "on" (driver is in position). When there's no driver, and kids are sitting in the back, the car is considered "off" so all switched 12V are off.
Sorry dude, but I’ve had my auto frunks, an auto trunk, and trailer wiring hooked up directly to the 12V battery and NEVER had a problem. The auto trunk, auto frunk, trailer light controller installed on my 2019 Model 3 have been installed for four years with no messages or problems.
awesome! then you're lucky. There are plenty of customers who come in around 30k miles with battery problems due to HANSHOW connections direct to battery.
This was very helpful. Thank you, my subscription to your channel will help I hope.
Hi PJ - great video! I'm trying to do the same to my '23 MYP.. My first attempt I tapped into the line for the brake lights instead of the accessory wire, which meant my radar detector turned on whenever I slowed down or stepped on the brakes.. I was trying to find the elusive "red wire", and wasn't able to find one of the thinner ones that gave a reading when the car is on. There is one that is a little thicker, not the main thick one, but it doesn't look like it's as thin as the one you have at this time in the video. ( czcams.com/video/qlx7t74Upxk/video.html )
Can you tell me if I'm seeing this wrong, or whether the slightly thicker one is indeed the correct one?
Thanks in advance!!
haha that's so funny - brake lights radar! since mine is 23 MYP too, your setup should be almost exactly the same. What really helps is to tap your brake every minute when searching for the red power wire. it's definitely red, and it may really be inside the bundle of wires. There are at least 5 red wires. and one of them might be just 5V
@@teslamods haha yea I wasn't able to determine why it only turned on when I used my brakes or during regen, then it hit me that was the brake light wire 😅
I tried going through all the red wires, there must have been at least 7 or 8 of them.. Don't think any of them hit over 12V, although there was one thicker wire that got over.. I guess I wanted to confirm the wire you tapped is one of the thinner ones, 22/24 gauge ones, right?
@@JosephOnThePhone yes, you saw from my video correctly, the thin wire, not that 1 thick red wire
@@teslamods Ended up having to tap into a slightly thicker wire, probably a 14-gauge, for it to work properly, none of the other thin ones were good enough.. Not sure why there's a difference between our cars, but let's hope this works out!
Thanks again for this video, definitely couldn't have gotten anywhere without it! 🤩
@@JosephOnThePhone interesting...good to know of the differences. Mine is Austin-built, micro-differences from the Fremont-built. and I would put a 10A fuse when connecting to the wire, just in case
the big red one is a continuos 12v ?
Nothing voids you warranty
In your video at around 2:50 you show that you pre-selected the wire and state it should have 15v. Your ammeter shows about 1.4A, but to find the one with 15.5v and the brake energizes is difficult. You don't really show that. An alternative is to use the larger red wire (14-16 ga) shown at 2:50 in the video. Its not quite as elegant as off when you exit, even with Sentry on, but it does turn off when the car goes to sleep, within 5 mins. Open the car door it turns on. Therefore for someone who struggles finding which small red wire is the one, they can use the larger one (not the big in the back) and it will shut down the accessory within 5 mins of exiting the car when the car goes to sleep. And powers up upon re-entry, no brake press needed.
what model do you have?