Climbing Grossglockner Normal Route - Großglockner Normalweg
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- čas přidán 5. 07. 2016
- Großglockner Normalweg Von Stüdlhütte (Kals am Großglockner)
Climbing Grossglockner from Stüdlhütte (Normal route from Kals am Großglockner )
Uspon na Grossglockner sa Stüdlhütte normalnom rutom (Kals am Großglockner)
Grossglockner via normale da Stüdlhütte (Kals am Großglockner)
The Grossglockner is one of the "to do"-mountains to climb (as Matterhorn and Mont Blanc) once in a lifetime.
The normal route is more difficult than many other major mountains of the alps.
Description of the normal route from Kals am Großglockner:
From the car park at the end of the Kalser Glocknerstraße a scenic route leads up to the Lucknerhütte. The path goes in one direction only from the Lucknerhaus so it cannot be missed. The path is a small road at this point.
From the Lucknerhütte the path becomes smaller making is a hiking trail instead of a road. The hike is quite easy (T2) towards the Stüdlhütte.
Shortly after passing the Lucknerhütte a yellow signpost point in two directions. You have to take a left here (follow signs 'Stüdlhütte').
The trail to the right goes directly to the Erzherzog- Johann- Hütte and is called the Mürztaler Weg.
Although the hike is fairly easy at this point, before arriving at the Stüdlhütte the trail becomes steeper but not difficult.
At the Stüdlhütte you could rest and get some food and drinks.
For guided tours this is the point to meet up with the guide.
From the Stüdlhütte the marked trail goes up in the direction of Grossglockner.
Follow once again the yellow signposts that say ''Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte''. The route remains easy until you reach the start of the Ködnitzkees glacier, at this point the marked trail stoppes and mostly a path of footprints continues on the glacier.
From this point on it is wise to rope up and put on crampons.
The first part is a walk over the glacier onto the rocky ridge on the east side of the Ködnitzkees. This is an easy glacier walk, watch out for crevasses though. One you crossed the glacier towards the east you will enter the rocks and leave the glacier.
From this point on it is a rocky scramble (grade I, fixed ropes) until you will reach the Adlersruhe at 3450m, on which the Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte is located. The scrambling is easy, but gets more tricky in wet conditions when the rocks can become slippery. After this nice scrambling part you will eventually reach the Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte.
When spending the night here, evening views are great in case of good weather.
From the Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte the route goes up to the so called Bahnhof.
The first part is an easy snow walk.
From the Bahnhof on the route gets steeper. Eventually you will enter the Glocknerleitl.
The Glocknerleitl is at its steepest point 40 degrees. Watch out here, it can be icy. At the top of the Glocknerleitl the Sattele is reached (the end of the snow-ice flank).
At this point starts the rocky ridge to the summit. When there is no snow/ice present it is a possibility to take of crampons here (late summer). If not, be sure to leave them on, the ridge can contain some steep ice. From this point on sicherungsstangen (fixed safety poles) are present until the summit.
The poles are located at about every 15 meters on the route. Continue upwards on the ridge, this includes some climbing in grade I/II (UIAA).
Shortly you will reach the fore summit of Grossglockner names Kleinglockner (3770m). After this point the routes descents shortly into the Glocknerscharte: the saddle between Klein - and Grossglockner.
The Glocknerscharte is very narrow with steep drops on each side, so watch out when passing here.
After passing the Glocknerscharte, there is some climbing again in the I & II grade (UIAA) until you reach the summit of Grossglockner with its magnificent summit cross.
Descent is the same way back.
Time:
From Lucknerhaus (1918 m) to Stüdlhütte (2802 m) : 2,5 hours ; 884 m
From Stüdlhütte (2802 m) to Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte (3454 m) : 2,5 hours ; 652m
From Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte (3451m) to Grossglockner (3798 m) : 1,5hour ; 344 m
I DO NOT own the music.
All rights reserved to their respective owners. - Sport
Svaka čast, čestitke na usponu! Odličan video i odlična glazba! Nadam se da ću i ja, nakon još nekoliko uspona na Triglav, konačno biti spreman za Grossglockner! Because it's there! Godspeed!
Hvala i sretno! :)
Bravo za uspon, za video, za glazbu! Bravo!!
Hvala! :)
gratuluję , dobry filmik, sam byłem dwa lata temu , pogoda trafiła wam super , pozdro
Thanks!
Great Videos, oalaláá
Thank you Milan.
I came here because of the music from Drache nervt! Meddl on!
Der Glockner ist immer eine Besteigung wert 👍 👍
Lg #alpinfreunde
Yes, the Grossglockner is beautiful mountain. 👍
nice done
Thanks!
Odličan video! Zahtjevan uspon u svakom slučaju. Je li puno zahtjevniji uspon od npr triglava? Želja mi ga je popet u narednom vremenu. Sa muzikom si pogodio definitivno, pogotovo s m83. Sretno i dalje.
Hvala. 🙂
Da, uspon na Großglockner tehnički je puno zahtjevniji nego uspon na Triglav.
Čestitam i Hvala na odličnom videu!!! Izgleda vrlo naporno, vidim, da ste morali puno radit za vrh, ali isplatilo se,...Možeš mi reči par lokacija rute, da malo vidim, gde ste išli, ne poznajem dobro, ali planiram u budučnosti.Hvala, Lp
Pozdrav! Evo, ovdje su detaljne informacije o usponu.
planinarenje.hr/staze/neues-lucknerhaus-stuedlhuette-glecer-koednitzkees-erzherzog-johann-huette-grossglockner-3798m?odrediste=grossglockner
Wasn't it cold without gloves?
Not during the climb. But during the descent, I wore gloves because it was quite cold.
what month do you think is best to climb the grossglockner ?
Hello Jeff.
The best months for climbing Grossglockner for inexperienced climbers are July, August and September due to good conditions on the mountain. Of course, with a mountain guide.
But be prepared for terrible traffic jams on the way to the top of the mountain, especially during the weekends.
If you can, try to avoid the weekends when the mountain is most overcrowded.
for sure during the week if do it also at what elevation or should i say meters do you start at from where you begin ?
i myself would prefer being on the snow up high like in your video
We started from Lucknerhaus (1920 meters above sea level) where we arrived with our car from Kals am Grossglockner. From this point begins hiking to Stüdlhütte (2802 meters above sea level) where the mountain guides usually meet with their clients. After the meeting, mountain guides lead their clients to Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte (3454 meters above sea level). In the Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte you sleep during the night.
Early in the morning your mountain guide leads you to the top of the mountain (3798 meters above sea level).
Descent to Lucknerhaus usually the same day.
The depth of snow depends on the weather conditions on the mountain. Of course, in the summer months there is not much snow.
Here you have more information about climbing the Grossglockner.
www.summitpost.org/normal-route-grossglockner/836668