Your front tires spin faster than the back. Testing air pressure vs rolling radius.
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- čas přidán 16. 06. 2024
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The front tires also wear quicker because they make more revolutions over a given distance due to being smaller, as well as steering duties.
Hey Neil, this is Bill. Thanks for looking into that.🙏 I did not know the front had a slight lead. I use 4wd only when needed and never on Concrete or pavement.
Your video definitely makes me feel better about the resistance I feel when in 4WD. I have R4's and lowered the air pressure in the rears so the tread sits flat which greatly improved my traction, but I keep the front at 40psi as recommended for loader use.
I have always driven Jeeps with a 1 to 1 gear ratio front to back and having equal air pressure in all 4 tires is important when using 4wd, but I've always wondered how the different size tires on a tractor effected the rotation in 4WD.
Thanks again, greatly appreciated.
Apparently other people use 4WD far more often than me. I use mine the same as in a truck, when I either get stuck, or the slippage is so profound getting stuck is imminent. I'm not a fan of having to fix things that didn't need to get broken from misuse.
Ditto
Ditto x2
yea basically. turn on when spin to much.
Hi Neal,
I enjoy your videos. Keep it up. I'm a retired Ford engineer and once upon a time I participated in an experiment that is kinda related to what you did in your tire pressing video. I was in the Driver Information department and there was some discussion about how tire pressure would speedometer accuracy. The result was tire pressure had absolutely no affect on speedometer accuracy.
Regards,
Bob Ferencz
Neil I enjoyed your video and learned a lot. Thanks
Well that's pretty interesting!
Interesting comparison. Thanks Neil!
I had always understood that the correct tire pressure is what is recommended in the manual. Typically you do not inflate a tire to the maximum allowed shown on the sidewall. I know that’s true for vehicles other than tractors and I believe it is true for tractors as well.
Also, what is with the weird comments, 2 in Spanish and 1 about some video game?
Max pressure is where max load rating is. Heavy hauling? Air up. Simple.
Another very informative video
Thank you Neil
Great video, Neill. This is a very much under discussed topic.
Thank you!
Interesting and educational 👍🏻
Good information to know. 👍
Thanks Neil!
👍🏼👍🏼 to Nell for reminding us that tyres can't be bought just by size: when fronts are done the rears are probably so much worn that one size smaller should be used. Then next time both fronts and rears, both original size 😁.
I'd like to suggest that the front tires spin faster than rears because they are quite a bit smaller and have to travel the same distance as the rears. Not so much about rpm, but more about feet travelled per second or minute. I always enjoy your videos. Keep at it, you do a great job.
The fronts are intentionally geared so they travel more feet per second/minute than the rears. The idea is that the fronts should be pulling the tractor along in most/all circumstances. If the fronts were "slower" than the rears, then in dirt, the fronts would basically be plowing the dirt ahead of them as the rears pushed the tractor forward. The optimal setup would be if they were exactly equal...but that's something that's nearly impossible to achieve in the very simple drivetrain that tractors have (no fancy diffs, clutch packs, etc in a transfer case) since, as Neil was trying to show, things such as tire pressure and tire wear can change the ratio between front and back. So, in order to ensure that the fronts are plowing...they are geared so they are always going to be "faster" than the rears in order to account for the variability mentioned. As an aside unrelated to your particular comment (which probably deserves a separate thread but /shrug here we are)....I'd like to suggest that those folks who are seeing excess wear on their fronts from all the time they spend on asphalt perhaps should learn where the lever that switches from 2wd to MFWD is located. Granted, things like using the loader on hard surfaces while having to make sharp turns all the time is hard on the fronts, but Neil seemed to insinuate that the wear was due to the difference in speeds between the fronts and the backs and for that purpose any excess wear observed is due to operator error.
Totally makes sense to have the fronts go slightly faster so that they are not plowing. I've driven enough times in snow in a 2wd pickup to notice it's usually good enough unless the snow gets deep enough that the fronts are trying to push snow rather than roll on top. Thanks for your reply
Very informative. Does you stock wheel spacers for a BX?
I have an idea for a video that I think would be very beneficial for those of us looking to buy a tractor. It would be nice to know what repair work will be needed as part of the normal use of a tractor and whether you could do the work yourself. Plus, what would the repair entail.
I'm not referring to regular maintenance, but what could happen in daily use where you'd need to correct/fix something.
Thank you for considering.
I'm a green guy, but I love Niel's content and watch it all
Leave it in 2 wheel drive unless in snow or mud .
Looked like a gear drive tractor?…but couldn’t see gear selector. Definitely clutched with shuttle shift. Just curious if gear selection changed or if ratios are same regardless. Just curious as I have the gear model MX but opted for less expensive and less repairs of the 2wd. I’m not in hills and never had situation where rear diff lock wouldn’t get me out (plus the bucket can push me out if in mud).
With varied loads whether front or rear, you will never be able to " adjust pressure " in every changing situation. Pick a load up in the bucket, front tires get smaller, rear get bigger.
correct me if i'm wrong, but the circumference of the tire isn't going to change regardless of the pressure right? the radius changes, but the distance the tire travels shouldn't change because all the belts etc inside the tire won't allow it to. in other words, your big ol ag tire has 26 sets of lugs that are 6" apart. no matter what the inflation is, you should still have the same number of lugs with the same spacing no?
No.
@@guyprattii3115 care to elaborate?
Diameter is 2*pi*r. If the radius changes, the diameter changes. That seems logical enough. But there is an argument that the radius is only changing at the very bottom of the wheel (where it's squished). At the front of the contact point, the tire is probably still the same radius. And that bit must also be part of the diameter......so there is something to what you're saying. Maybe that's why Neil found no difference?
Neil, would the differences between the front and rear tire speeds change depending on the transmission range selection in 4WD?
No
That is also the reason why your four-wheel drive pickup will hop when you turn sharp in four-wheel drive on dry conditions and your tractor won't.
Air pressure will not change the rolling circumference enough to matter, less than a 1% difference. Your test proved what some other CZcamsrs have shown with similar videos and the same nonsignificant air pressure result.
Front end loaders tend to increase front tire wear the most. Which would be in line with your two to one difference in tire replacement.
There are two things: the larger the tyre the larger the impact AND it's the front to rear ratio that counts. Carrying heavy implement on the rear in wlnter means need to inflate (weight and temperature) and if that air isn't let out when summer comes ih messes up the ratio. Same if AG-tyres are used when doing heavy lifting/moving with front loader.
The biggest risk is destroying the front differential if the ratio is wrong. Bug onlh using 4WD when needed and in low gear is a good rule. Larger/newer tractors disengage 4WD automatically when speed gets higher...
Noticed radial tires are more popular for tractors. Longer life or ride ?
Ride and traction
Is there lead in MFWD only? Or also in 4wd?
As far as I know, only lead in machines where front and rear tire sizes are different. Wheel loaders and 4wd articulated should theoretically have none.
There might be some cases where the front might have a lead with machines that are not full-time 4WD.
After watching this video I'm pretty sure I'm running too much tire pressure. Having said that, what would be a good tire pressure to run in an L2501 with loaded rear tires, 50% of the time in 4 wheel drive mostly on dirt/grass?
Also, R4 tires. Thanks for any input 👍
Best advice is see what your tire ratings are (max load @ max psi). Estimate the weight how heavy your tractor is what it is pulling or carrying on average. There might be some tire inflation charts in your manual or from the tire manufacturer that can help you decide, and also specifications either in the manual or online can give you an idea.
If you're not carrying heavy loads, you can drop the pressure down quite a ways without much worry. Since they are loaded, would definitely stay 12 psi and above. Tires that are loaded will give better performance of the tractor, but reduces ride quality due to the fluid not allowing as much give.
@farming4g Thanks for the response 👍👍👍
Tire slippage is a thing.
We always look at weighting enough to get a slight spinning/slippage when pulling heavy load. To much weight and the lead time will be noticed (excess wear), not enough and you'll just spin a ditch (excess fuel usage). As conditions change so does the amount of weight required.
Why would you be 4WD in pavement anyway?
First non spam comment?
Science is so complicated 😅