Late-2008 15" MacBook Pro Logic Board Repair
Vložit
- čas přidán 13. 09. 2024
- In this video, I repair the logic board (820-2330) of a Late-2008 15" Apple MacBook Pro. This repair ended up being relatively easy; all I ended up having to do was jump a broken trace, and replace a bad capacitor. After performing those two repairs, I got the machine fully working!
I have the same model, and when i plug the charger, a very dim light is on, and that tiny black square resistor is a bit burned, and when the charger is connected gets really hot, and smells bad, i have disconnected it immediately, thanks
I have my Macbook Pro mid 2009 that works very bad. I have to unplug the battery and the computer powers on automatically. But if I plug the battery back the macbook goes to sleep mode. Only works if again if i remove the battery.
If I turn off, and remove battery, it will not power on anymore, unless i plug the battery back again and then unplug it one more time.
I tried a SMC reset but nothing happened
Hey i have a problem almost same , i have green led but macbook dont start :( with and without battery , can u give me an advice what can be ?
Hi, thank you so much for the video. Could you please let us know the source you used for the replacement capacitor?
I know the original one is a 330uf tantalum, dont know the voltage rating but has theres only aprox 1.1v across I would guess a capacitor rated 6.3v or 10v will do.
Did you replace it with another tantalum capacitor or with an electrolytic?
I was thinking in going with an electrolytic one but has that board has a lot of heat Im afraid to use as Electrolytic capacitors are know for not liking heat. thanks
I just grabbed a capacitor of the same value off another dead MacBook logic board I had. I'd recommend keeping it as a tantalum, but one thing you'll need to be aware of is the space where the capacitor goes is very small, so it may be hard to find something that actually fits. I have another video on my channel showing this repair on a Mid-2009 17" machine, so you can watch that for more details.
Thank you so much for your reply. My computer is not an unibody, it's a 2008 15inch non-unibody Macbook Pro. It's doesn't power up, Battery, power button and PSU are fine, and I have a green light on the PSU connector. Althoug it doesn't power up. This is a common problem in non-unibody Macbook Pro after some years. I don't know if this might be the same problem as a failed capacitor like the 2008 unibody Macs.
I can force start the non-unibody Macbook pro by removing battery and PSU, pressing power button for 10 seconds then insert the PSU connector (while keep pressing power button) and keep pressing for more 10 seconds. It starts up, althought doesnt charge the battery. I guess if I can do this the graphics chip is fine and theres some other reason in the voltages supply circuit for it not starting up in the normal way and charging the battery. I can see a lot of people with the same problem in non unibody Macs, although people normally solve this by replacing the Logic Board, but I would prefer to actually fix the Logic Board.
Ok, those machines are completely different than the Unibodies, and don't have the capacitor issue like they do. Usually it's the left I/O board that fails in those, try replacing that and see if that makes a difference.
Thank you I will investigate on that
I'm trying to source a used I/O board for this one. I can start the computer with an SMC Bypass startup, graahics, ram and HD all work well with the SMC bypass. Although I can't power up normally
I have the same machine, The magsafe works and the battery indicator seems to be working... but it just doesn't turn on... I've reset the smc and vram, but just doesn't turn on... :/.....
Yeah, C7771 is bad.
what is the program you use on the schematics?
It's the Landrex "Board View" program that comes with a lot of the schematics you download. It's a Windows-only application, but I got it to run on Mac OS X using Wine, which works just fine.
i just have a question, i am having a problem with an iPad mini not giving me any sort of display, after i switched the battery out, any help would be helpful. i have a very soon date that this needs to be fixed please help thanks!
I don't really work with iDevice logic boards... Is it water damaged at all?
no, i just opened it, and tried to replace the battery reassembled it and it didn't function
Oh, in that case I'd recommend that you just check the connection for the display and digitizer. Just ensure it's connected properly and seated securely.
ok, i will. how do i tell without completely reassembling the iPad
where you got the schematic reader and the schematic? :o
You can find them by searching for the board number on Google. Usually the results from badcaps.net have the schematics.
For your own sake..
Please, please, PLEASE get a proper multi meter!
LOL I know that multimeter is garbage... But hey, it gets the job done... Definitely will get a better one soon though.
Whats the problem? that multimeter is completely fine. It measures voltage, Resistance, diodes, continuity. Completely fine for 90% of job repairs
Why don't you use solder that has flux built in? Also, why don't you ever show your face?
Based on my experience, there's a chance the flux might burn off before the solder touches the board.
***** Never had an issue. I just clean off the burnt flux.