What causes no power most 2008-2009 17" Unibody Macbook Pros & how to fix it.
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- čas přidán 11. 09. 2024
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Thank you Sir..
Louis Rossmann Hi I love ur videos u make electronic repairs look so easy. I wonder if you can help me it’s completely off the topic however I have a Lenovo g580 laptop and it will not switch ‘on’ at all none of the indicator led’s light up at the front of the laptop. I’ve tried a different power supply tried removing the battery all the usual basic stuff it will it turn on. I’ve taken it to a third party repair shop and without even opening up they said I need a new motherboard.. Could you please point me in the right direction I know a little bit abt electronics so was thinking perhaps it could be a surface mount fuse or something. Please help I’m am all the way from South Africa 🇿🇦
Hi, do you have a new link for this capacitor?
Hi Louis, great vid, could I just ask you what the voltage rating should be on the replacment cap, I was thinking 2v. I'm unable to buy from you as I'm in Australia and it would cost $$$ in shipping fees. I've been looking at this one..(Panasonic 330μF 2V dc Aluminium Polymer Capacitor, Surface Mount 7.3 x 4.3 x 1.9mm +105°C 7.3mm). Many thanks for any advice on this. Regards Jay.
Would Love to but its stated as "Out Of Stock" ... I need one for my 17'' 2009 MBP. Power on only when he's hot.
My Mac mini was dead for 6 months. After this video I just replaced one capacitor and voila, it is alive now. Thank you!!!
sounds like a perfect plot for a Frankenstein movie :D
wow! , thank you so much, I purchased your part, followed your directions, and my 17" MacBook Pro lives again!! you are awesome!!!!!!
good job!
Can I send you my computer to fix.
My beloved MacBook Pro 17 stopped powering up a few months ago. I was in the middle of moving so couldn't mess with it.
Tried all the SMC reset, NVRAM clear tricks and nothing happened.
Found this video, measured the positive side of that CAP and viola 0.317v.
Ordered two from your site. (always have to have a spare!)
Thank you !!!!
These are the videos that I enjoy. Short, informative, and easy to understand. I get that you don't like editing or repeating yourself, but these are the videos that I would like to see more of.
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU I purchased a 17" macbook off of Ebay and followed your lead and it works perfect now. I paid $95.00 US for it.
Years ago, I repaired a 17” MBP 2009 using this video, and using a cap I bought from you; still going strong! (due to not having the right equipment, I soldered wires to the pads, and then the cap to the wires. Not recommended, but it works!😅 thank you for all your videos on repair, and everything else!
This video/guy helped me save my MacBook Pro late 2008. Thank you from the London!!
You are the "Bob Ross" of board repair! Videos 6 years old still getting positive comments ... You're the Man!
With so much dust I feel the urge to blow at the screen
Jeez Louis, blow those pubes out of there before you flux it up
Thanks L
Short & sweet & straight to the point. My 2007 MBP 17 still works great but you never know when a failure is imminent. I run Yosemite with an ssd to improve performance.
Cheers
Trevor in West Australia
Thanks for making this video. I know my macbook pro is pretty old, but I didn't want to give up on it yet. This video and the part from Rossman Repair group saved my macbook pro.
Sweet babies, thank you so much i have 20 of these that have been sitting for years.
Can I ship my MacBook to you for this repair? I’m assuming the same issue has happened to mine. It just suddenly stopped working for me, 2008 MacBook Pro.
@@omcasanova did he fix it
MrBark45 never sent it out. Still sitting in a box ready to get shipped out. Forget all about it.
These are still nice machines and compared to some MacBook Pro models, reliable as frig. I own one that exhibited the same issue and was repaired with this method, albeit using a temperature controlled iron and removing some of the nearby solder mask to perform the fix. Tossed a thermal transfer pad between the Mux chip and bottom case as preventative maintenance, and it's outlived several of the newer machines that were supposed to replace it.
Picked up another two 17" 2009s last week with the same issue and intend to perform the same fix to those as well.
You are doing such a Great service for the world people man.
I’m pretty sure there are thousands of people around the world able to save their old poor asses after watching your videos, like what I'm doing. 😄
We highly appreciate your service.
Thank you 🙇
Louis Rossmann does not just fix broken boards, he is a philosopher and a guiding light on the practicalities of life.
love your tips in this ruff time i have been enjoying myself with fixing old macs!
Thanks for the video. I was able to repair my 2009 Macbook 17 with the information and a little practice with the Quick 861DW on some spare donor boards.
Interesting, I recall in a previous tantalum cap video you scraped to extend the ground pad out and used the outer lead on the longer cap instead of the middle lead. This is a much easier way to do the job!
By the way, I believe there's a note in the schematic that this rail /is/ supposed to be 1.1V for some boards, not 1.05V.
I don't buy apple products personally because I fucking hate Apple.. but I can seriously appreciate what you do and your intention to help people. Stay strong, keep it going.
I have a 2010 17" mbp that my wife bought me and at the moment it's still working fine with more memory and an add fitted but this is really handy to know and will purchase this when needed.
Useful video - symptoms match perfectly my2009 unibody 17" MBP with the 820-2610 board ( 0.320V on the cap + using my Fluke 112 DMM ) so I will obtain one of these caps - Mr Rossmann currently showing no stock . I don't have a hot air gun ( for soldering ) but I expect the finest point tip on my Weller PU1d/TCP1 will do the job
wow Louis! you are like a surgeon awesome
you are really really good man i really admire what you are doing and ived been learning so much things by whatching your vlogs videos, im a big fun of yours mr rossmann im a technician also i live in phillippines, i will support you always and will keep whatching and like your upcoming and previous videos, 2 thumbs up for all works and i like it, and thank you so much for all the knowledge you shared, godblessed you and to your family
How nice it would be to see the clean motherboard before you start to repair it.
Man, thank you for the earth ;-) Always impressive to watch you work
Actually a DSO would be the preferred tool to use in this situation as it would allow you to see the ripple voltage. A LCR meter can confirm the high ESR in the cap.
I had the same with my Amiga 500 in '92. Went dead from one moment to the other.
I only had a multi meter at the time (no scope) with which i measured all the caps. And low and behold....The tantalum cap on the keyboard coder had gone bad (short). replaced it and it still works to this day.
When a cap shorts out the power supply trips and shuts down (or at least it should do)
Anyone remember the period (~2004-2008) when some cap supplier had sold a massive batch of bad electrolytic caps to Manufacturers. They were fine the first year or so after which they all started to go bad (bulging at the top - not a short but there was conductance between the anode and cathode) As a consequence systems became unstable and could freeze at any moment. This resulted in a massive surge of Warranty claims. I've revived many system boards by simply replacing all the caps.
That was a great video thanks for the upload !
See my post below. Turned out it was the c7771 cap after all, but with some really crazy things having to be done to get it up and running. Take note of my diagnostics below. The + side of the cap read 1.10 volts when powered up and running and when detached as a free board. Thanks Louis for the video which at least got me on the right track.
please tell me - i'm so desperate!
Why don't you blow or brush the dust /hairy dust out first? It may reduce contact.
Please do Razer Blade Stealth fixing videos
First thing I'd do is get rid of all that dust.
The tip is never too big
Here is shoot one. I've never seen anyone before on how to solder smd caps. I am just a hobbyist doing stuff, all my soldering techniques are from personal experience. The way you soldered that new cap into place was not so good. I wouldn't put solder on the board, removing the old solder and placing the capacitor first is the best option. The use of hot air and a touch of solder on the hot edges of the cap would make a perfect joint without having excess solder everywhere. The solder would just flow underneath filling perfectly, always use minimal solder.
Loius, i have this adaptor i bought at walmart for 12 bucks fits right into the shop vac I bought there for 40 bucks, one of the attachments is a tiny brush. That would work great for sucking up all the pubic hairs on all these boards. Dig your videos.
FOUND an OEM replacement on the bottom of of the logic board of my dead Late 2008 AL-UNIBODY 13.3 A1278
(Bad GPU, but bootable)
CAREFULLY removed and put in place on my Late 2008 MBP 15 mobo
With my TINY Weller pencil tip
No Go!
Must be some other fault
So the $22 ppd. MBP goes back into my parts donors....
My #$60 ppd. perfectly good 1st. Gen.12/2007 MBP 15 2.6 is fine...
Built from two such Hanger Queens found on eBay
as usual
Thanks for the education, though.....
J.C.
Interesting because tantalum capacitors are known for their durability compared to electrolytic capacitors.
You got some 2008-09s in as well? I've had 4 in the past day or so. All interesting rabbit holes with some dead MCPs in the mix
You sir are a legend
Well done
Good one Louis you saved my 😅 keister
As much as I would love to say Come to Ohio, don't. I would consider Texas, or NC/SC. Like Charlotte NC, is right on the boarder with SC. Greenville, SC is a really up and coming tech area too. Nice weather and not to far from the beach.
I don't own apple products neither do I have anything broken but it was fun to watch this quick repair guide.
Why not blow the board off with compressed air before starting?
the reason you see resistance when measuring capacitors is that you are charging them up..... why not use an X7R capacitor instead of tantalum - cheaper , more compact and more reliable?
For a given voltage, ceramic capacitors will be larger than electrolytics.
Let's add a little flux here...you are the Bob Ross of electronics repairs...haha...
Dude, you are a lifesaver, thank you.
You should post slash show if possible this video at "right to repair hearings" like how is what You do illegal?
Thank you so much for the video. I can see that the repair is for Unibody Macbooks Pro. How about the tremendous amount of non-unibody 2008 MacbooK Pros that also don't power up? Could they be suffering for the same issue ? or maybe a similar one? Thank you
Thank you Louis!
OUTSTANDING
5:23 . . . That's what she said :)~
flux, maybe ky
I hate when that happens ... my enemies stop disappearing until I get it repaired. On the plus side, my evil goatee is really coming in great!
That's what I have. 15 inch 09 MBP. It lasted nearly 10 years! I did crack the screen on the bevel edge when traveling, so it didn't bother the viewing area. I took it to get an estimate for the screen ( too expensive so I said don't)
and not telling me,they cleaned it and changed the memory. They messed it up, It would not hold charge and would try to boot then turn off with it plugged in.
When I got home I put in new battery and still not holding a charge or charging. Didn't recognize battery. Was able to transfer some files for a few hrs before it would shut down no longer boot plugged in.
I read about this machine has a certain kind of ram. To only use a type of ram chips that was a certain speed?
I think the memory they put in over clocked it.. is that possible?
Would not charge and even plugged in it would barely boot then stop..it's been in my drawer for 4 years.
I was broke so had to use a HP laptop I had when my Mac broke.
I just got the new M1 Air. I was going to get a HD enclosure to transfer my important writing , photos that were not in cloud and medical records.
Is it worth to fix this 2009 MBP?
Should I just get the enclosure and transfer to my Mac book air M1?
Thanks. You are all the best source for these things.
Thank you very much.
As usual, Louis is god.
have you simply tried a tantalum rated at a higher voltage...I totally agree with your repair but was thinking the tantalum came in a smaller package with a variety of voltages
Hi ,I need a solution for my apple computer -model number A1534.the computer has problem of doesn't see SSD ,always question mark folder. Please help me to solve the problem.
thanks louis
that other pad is heat sink both gnd pads should be connected
Wow, they make a capacitor where you don't have to bend the terminals to make it connect. Cool!
for that tantalum SMD cap, you need 2 irons to take it out, no need for a heat gun.just saying..
louis can you please do a videa repairing other brand laptop...like maybe acer or hp please....
Bryan Sedibe not enough money in that... He’s located in New York where MacBooks are plentiful ...most people with Acer and HP laptops would be better off replacing the machine for a little extra than the $300-$350 he charges for board repairs.
It could be replaced for a capacitor with similar characteristics or should be a capacitor distribute or sold for apple of the same appareance?
Quick question, would this apply if, there is a green light present on the magsafe? Thanks
Hello Louis,
I've looked through a lot of videos of you are very interesting man learning a lot, but I can't figure out where to look for the mistake.
The program where you have for the Schematick where the individual digits shows you how he means that I can not get there with my PDF you could tell me the names ??
Kind regards from Germany
Louis, is that hair all over that e-board your'e showing us. And if so what's your best method of de-hairing, or do you even do that? Just curious, thanks, good video. Dan
Simplest thing is just an ordinary small paintbrush , if you have access to compressed air that works well too .
Louis which pins did u use to short it on my man?
Can i just put a wire insted of Capacitor ? Will it work
Haven't seen vid yet, is it PP3V42?
Thank you for the video, How i can order that capacitor?
Is there any chance you’ll get more in stock or know of a different source
Does the 2009 MacBook Pro 13 inch have the same problem because mine I checked most of the caps in mine and most of them had .01 volts on them.
Won't the right side of the new capacitor hit the solderpad from the part on the right? :O
@Louis Rossmann I have a Macbook Pro that I bought back in 2012, (I believe, it's been awhile), and I used it a total of around 6 months, and then I decided to open it up, and apply new thermal paste. While putting it back together, my screwdriver slipped, and hit the board, and a cap right next to the dang thing popped off the board. I looked all over the carpet, and could not locate it, and now it does not turn back on. Had to buy my wife a new one for the screw up, and I kept that macbook pro like new in the box since then, in hopes to repair it since Apple wanted the price of the entire unit to replace one damn cap, so I refused repair from them.
Would you be willing to take a look at a few pics, and tell me what I need to repair it, (I can repair most things with proper parts), and if you cannot tell me, would you please fix it for me before I move back to Asia in like 6 weeks? I would like to take the Macbook Pro with me on the trip, it's my only laptop that I have left, since the ecks took the new one with her when we split up. Thank you!
Does reheating solder on work change the solder and it cracks when returning to hard I heard solder can only be heated once and so when Macs get very hot and cold many times the solder cracks!
Hi Louis, great video. I have a mid 2009 Macbook Pro running Yosemite. The startup has gone crazy now. I have found no likely cause for this until I ran across your video. Let me describe this and maybe you can tell me whether it might be the c7771 cap that is causing this issue. I had suspected a cold solder joint on the board someplace, but this video may suggest something different. Here is what I have to do to get my unit running. First, I have to double click the power button for 20-30 times. Chime begins at that time, then shuts down. A few more clicks and the screen lights up (shutdown each time) , then a few more times the Apple logo comes on, then a few more times the startup bar comes on. Then it starts a cycle where it will not get to the chime for a few times, then the Apple logo shows, then a couple more times and the startup bar may or may not get to the end, then we go back to it not even getting to the chime again. This time, a few more power button cycles, and we finally get to the desktop. Occasionally, from the desktop, the unit spontaneously shuts down, especially under hard video processing on CZcams. I should point out that I don't get kernel panics with any of this. If the c7771 cap is flakey, would this cause the described problem. A former Apple tech said it was just replace the mother board. Don't think that's necessarily the answer. have tried all the PRAM and such resets to no avail. Battery has been replaced and this occurs whether on battery only or on line power.
I have the same issues, I tested the voltage on the capacitor he showed and got the .315 volts. I'm ordering the part from Louis's site now and I'll reply again when I swap it out. Also just so you know, he doesn't have time to reply to messages like this for free unfortunately.
@@EDDY69 were you successful?
Emir Balali yep! Works well now. I don’t have a hot air machine so I had to solder with an iron, and it took me a bit but I got it eventually.
@@EDDY69 thank you for your answer! i was so desperate till now^^
Are you a engineer or electronic technician
How much you charge to fixed the same problem on my macbook pro 17 inches I live in NY so I can bring it to you but I one to no the price tanks
@rossmanngroup so you do this repair? I have one I'd like to get fixed
Would this apply to the 2010 17" macbook pros (A1297) as well? Electrical storm zapped mine and the wifes even though on a power strip. tried the power port replacement, no go.
I have a 2010 MacBook pro with a similar problem. I believe I need to replace the same capacitor. Is the capacitor in a similar location? Do you have a video that shows this issue? Thanks
Is the cap coming back into stock anytime soon?
I removed the capacitor and found short circuit under it ..any help pls
What diag method did you use to find this bad cap?
I'm looking for the video where a component was destroyed and delivered to the store for repair. I can't find that video, can you help me.
Hi,
I have one logic board with this capacitor C7771. Since I don’t have one tantalum I replace it temporary (only to test if that fix works for me) with an electrolytic capacitor (330mf 16V). With the multimeter probe I have the following measurements .330V and 0V (shifting every 2 sec). Is this happening because of the electrolytic capacity, or is this another problem?
Regards
George
Hi Louis! Did you use 20x magnification on microscope?
oh w0w, what is this multimeter that allows you to inject the data as an OSD in the video?
I did this however my Mac still doesn’t turn on, are there any other common issues with these boards? My capacitor reads 1.05 volts after replacing too
Hi Louis....unrelated question please..how do you unlock..locked Ipads?
Hey have a early 2015 macbook air and it do not load any more. Changed the batterie and charging cable it didn't get better. Without batterie it is running, so i could run a test on it. Can you give me an advice how to find the problem and get the parts to fix it or could you fix it for arround 250? I am a bit of a nerd and would pay the risk killing my macbook by doing it on my one.
@5:25, that’s what she said !
Am I the only one who dinged the inductor c7771? I need a replacement any idea where is best to buy? It cabled apart I guessthink heat gun was too high? What's a good temp for this job?
Hello Louis,
I have a Macbook Pro A1286 motherboard 820-2330 from 2008, have the green light on the macsaif but it does not come on ??
What can I do?
I've already wiggled the transistor because I still have 1.08v no reaction.
Bro Im from India and I have the same power issue shown in your video of my macbook pro 820-2390 2008 /2009 17" Unibody bro can u help where can I get this capacitor? Please please do reply me I really want this Mac to work
Hey brotha I have a 2010 or it 2011 MacBook 17” my MacBook stop working it wont power on but I still get the battery indicator light works and the power cable light works was screwrowing around on the motherboard that’s why it won’t turn on could you please please make a video on what I can do please
I have a 2011 (I think) 17 inch unibody Macbook pro but C7771 (and L7770) is working just fine at 1.105v. Green LED with the charger but nothing happens when you short the power on pads. PP5V_S3 is working too and I have no idea what could be wrong and I can't really find that out without schematics D: any ideas? I am a noob with this kind of repair. This is just a fun project.
Backstory: The board that coffee damage but no visible damage on the pcb. It stopped working after coffee got on the keyboard and I got it years after this. I noticed that it would only boot somewhat buggy if I help it upside down. I cleaned everything including the entire keyboard in 99% isopropyl (some got into the screen... and RIP coating on the keycaps) and reinstalled OS X. It worked fine but the keyboard was broken with only a few keys with weird inputs working. An USB keyboard acted the same way. Since I didn't have a charger that I could keep at the time it just sat there for like a year. Now I got the original charger too and it doesn't boot anymore.
what is the back unit with blue led? air ionizer / purifier?