Troubleshooting: Why your welder won’t weld with 6010 rods
Vložit
- čas přidán 1. 06. 2024
- In this episode we tackle why your welder won’t weld with 6010 rods.
0:00:00 Intro
0:00:49 6010 explained
0:04:00 why your welder won’t run 6010
0:08:34 booksmarts
0:19:18 conclusion
This is the best video tutorial on CZcams on why some inverters will not burn 6010. Thank you.
No problem. I wish all inverters would run it, it’s a very useful rod.
you and your fancy book lernins! seriously though i appreciate your videos and the way you explain stuff
Thank you soooooooooo much. This video helped to diagnose difficulty of welding 6010. it turns out that my inverter welder has no capability of welding 6010 even it is rated as a 250 Amp. I bought another one 200 amps that is capable of welding 6010, it welds 6010 like magic, Beautiful beads. 👍
The difference is pretty significant when you run a welder that can run 6010 vs one that barely (or doesn’t lol) runs it. Due to the way transformer winding ratios work it is very easy to produce a welder transformer that can output 24 volts within a normal amp range. 6010 requires far more voltage than that which sucks because many machines won’t run it. When you run 6010 on a machine designed for it it’s a super useful and good rod. Many people are missing out by not being able to use it. Interestingly enough (I don’t remember if I mentioned it in the video) but the same problem plagues mig welders as well. Most home hobby machines and even decently powerful units can’t hit above 22-23v. Which is a huge problem because 250a of wire welder power is meaningless because with only 23v you can’t spray arc, run dual shield, and even 100% co2 gas is a stretch. Of course companies don’t mention that at all lol.
Once again thank you so much for your invaluable explanation. I am a recent subscriber to your channel, I will try to watch all your videos to learn more from you. God bless you.
I have been stick welding for almost 2 years. Your videos fill in pieces of the puzzle that I need, to get unstuck in my progress. Thanks.
Awesome, glad to hear that😀. It can be tough to progress to the next level with skill. Learning curves for welding are initially steep (aka hard to get decent) but once you make it to the decent stage it becomes a very slow process to get even a little bit better. You’re doing the right thing, watching some videos, and practicing. It can also become hard to stay motivated when learning too, and that’s why it helps to do actual projects or fix things Inorder stay interested. If you haven’t done much 6010 welding it’s worth tackling that rod, mastering running beads with it will make you a very consistent welder.
*just* the video I was looking for, THANK YOU.
No problem 😀
What a wonderful presentation explaining the difference between 6010 and 6011. Thank you so much for the answer to the mystery. I had just watched a youtube video that was knocking a heavily advertised import brand that had introduced a model that specifi cly had a 6010 mode. It didn't perform any better than a cheaper previous model.
A lot of import welders claim to run 6010 but they don’t unfortunately. It pretty much just comes down to the welders maxed close circuit voltage. This is also why it’s very difficult to produce a multi process welder that can stick weld with 6010. The power source has to be able to output high voltage of 32v closed circuit to run 6010 properly, but at low relative amperage (90 amps for 1/8th rod). With mig and tig you would never run that high of voltage at anything lower than 200amps out. It becomes very difficult to have a simple power source capable of both variable high voltage, constant low current (6010 stick) and constant lower voltage, variable high amperage. To get around this some manufactures use two different transformers driven by igbt modules to get the best performance. Even with that said, a dedicated stick machine generally has better performance than a all in one.
Thanks for being the only guy that I have seen on CZcams that has explained why that 6010 won't run on an inverter welder. This will help out quite a few guys out there. So if you can't run 6010 then grab some 6011 instead. About the only question left from me would be to weld rusty dirty metal using say 7018 vs 6010 or 6011. Then see what the results are.
Thanks for all of the demos and education. Your channel should really be taking off shortly.
I have some steel “seasoning” in a salt/peroxide blend right now. I am going to do a weld test on it and see what happens lol. I have welded rusted out metal before but never with a cut and etch to see what happens. Probably because there wasn’t enough metal left to test lol.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg That sounds great Greg. This sounds like the concoction that Project Farm uses to rust bolts and metal. It should be pretty rusty in a few days. This test will be interesting.
Very informative info. I can see why many of the inverter machines have issues. They are trying to the electronics to cut the size transformer needed to the fraction the size of a old transformer based machine as is. For cost to build as well as to use and the size. I always liked 6010 for root passes. I bought a Everlast 221 STI about 5 years ago. Now I honestly thought I would seldom use the stick but It is just so damn smooth compared to the old machines. Hot start and inductance settings. Man people do not know how good they have it learning on a modern machine. I love welding rod on my Everlast. I have been welding 30 plus years and it is the smoothest welder I have ever used. My machine will run 6010 no problem very smoothly and even has a mode to select for the 6010 welding. It is a AC/DC tig with every bell and whistle and then the mig too. If you are a newbie and not sure you will like welding or intend to play with it once every few years then buy a cheep simple machine $200 to $400 machine. But if a person is seriouse about welding and want too really explore the craft I say buy a machine that will do everything you might think you want to do and more.. We have so many affordable options now that are not red or blue but will hang with them in every way.
I am happy for all the choices as well. Having welded on a ton of machines (old and new) I like the new machines more in general. Like you said, all of the modern controls let a person dial things in the way they want to.
I see the fact you can go to harbor freight or everlast and get a pretty decent welder that’s very capable for a reasonable price is a win for people who want to build stuff. It wasn’t that long ago that you couldn’t find a tig welder anywhere other than a welding supply company. The fact you have multiple to pick from and numerous local stores to buy it, is a win. I still support Lincoln/esab/miller because they do a ton for new students and do a ton for welding education, but many other brands have a place. At the end of the day what matters most is a persons skill more than the brand of machine they run.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg for sure the skills matter most. The part that blows my mind is not only the number of the Tig's available but how many have ACDC. My everlast221 sti was actually the first multi process of any brand to offer AC also. It was not a blue or red machine. Everlast changed the game forever with that machine
Hi Greg, thanks for going deep enough to explain the issues at hand. Cheers.
Best explanation I’ve seen. Thanks!
If your inverter wont run 6010, but it has a high OCV ( 70V+ ), then you can probably make it work fine by putting an old AC welder transformer in line with the earth lead ( to the AC welders GND/WORK terminals, WITHOUT POWERING IT ON ). This adds extra inductance. This worked for an inverter I had which had 100V OCV but did not run 6010.
I am going to try that, I think I have a old transformer from a 180 Lincoln buzz box in a container somewhere. 😀
@@makingmistakeswithgreg Here is the video I found which made me try it origionally; czcams.com/video/ZGvPhJZCMvY/video.html . Oh and be sure to play with the dial on the buzzbox, it will adjust the inductance and change the way it behaves :)
@@makingmistakeswithgregHad to use this trick again today, except on 6011. I bought a generic throwabout stick welder which I took with me to this current workplace. Went to go practice some 6011 thinking it would work no worries... nope, it kept cutting out and being a prick. Luckily there was an old transformer welder sitting right near me, and after putting it in the ground lead circuit, it ran nicely :) Also seemed to make 7016/7018 run smoother too.
When you say you plugged it into the transformer welder and then ran the 6011 just fine afterwards. Could you better explain that please??
@@cameronkee.2214 Not sure how much clearer I can make it.. there is a video about it even. Your AC transformer has two connections on it, one for the stinger, one for the ground clamp. You get your inverter welder, and connect its ground lead to one of the AC transformers connections. Then on the other AC transformers connection, run a ground lead + clamp to the thing you are welding. Then just use the inverters stinger and weld. *** DO NOT PLUG THE AC TRANSFORMER INTO THE MAINS ***. Leave the mains lead unplugged and tucked away in a safe area.
Great job explaining what's happening
Thank you 😀
Thank you so much. You are excellent teacher l am learning so much looking forward to your next video
You’re welcome 😀. I am glad the videos help you out 😀
Very good as always.
I so glad I watched this video before buying any welding rods. Is there a chart somewhere that shows which rods need what voltage to run?
I can give you a quick guide:
This is for 1/8th rods. 3/32 will be slightly less:
6010 minimum 28v operating, max 40
6011 minimum 25 max 33
6013 minimum 22 max 26
7018 minimum 22 max 26
7014 minimum 22 max 26
If welding an open root or hole the voltage increases. If holding a super tight arc the voltage decreases. This is why sometimes you can run 6010 on a welder by cramming the rod in. Bigger rods than 1/8th use more voltage, smaller generally use less. Many stick welders are capable of producing enough voltage to run 6010 however not at the amperage it runs at. Universally 6013 and 7014 will run on any stick welder. 7018 will run on most. 6011 will run on 60-70% of welders. 6010 will run on maybe 15% of the welders out there (modern machines).
I have a miller thunderbolt 160 and was running into the same problem. My arch just kept cutting out on me after few inches of welding. Glad you cleared that up thought it was just me.
No problem, and it’s not just you lol. A friend of mine has the Hobart 160 (basically the same thing). It’s a well built welder but unfortunately it doesn’t run 6010 ☹️. It runs 6011 good so that’s always a option.
This is extremely useful. I've been having a nightmare trying to get 6010 to run. I thought it was just me as I mainly tig and don't use my stick welder much. However this does make sense, I had huge difficulty getting the rods to start and run. Which I've not had previously.
I will measure my voltages and see. Thanks for putting this video up.
I am glad it helped. If your welder doesn’t have the operating voltages needed to run it and the arc randomly cuts out, it’s not you lol. Switching to 6011 will give you similar performance to 6010, but a bit less penetration. Many (most) tig welders can stick weld but many don’t run 6010 because they are designed primarily as tig welders (they have fairly low voltage output. I had a Lincoln tig 200 and it couldn’t run 6010 and barely ran 6011, but it was a good tig welder (tig is sub 18 volts).
@@makingmistakeswithgreg This makes a lot of sense. It's got to be about 15 years old and I bought it as my first DC Tig machine. but since getting a better Tig it's been my portable stick welder. I'll try 6011. I cant remember what my last box of general purpose rods were, I'm guessing 6013
@@Pro2eus obviously if you can still get use out of it then definitely keep it. If I had to pick between 6011 and 6013 I would pick 6011 for sure. It does take more skill to weld with 6011 (basically the weld pool solidifies so fast inconsistencies in your hand movement show up in the weld) but it is far less likely to have slag entrapment issues. 7018 will run like a champ on pretty much any machine that can stick weld so don’t be afraid to give that a shot too. 😀
Just cracked into a can of fresh Esab 6010s- the Sureweld red/orange ones. Much nicer and smoother than the early 1990s 5p Lincoln reds I have used thus far as my only experience with 6010.
They run fantastic on my little Sanrex 160. And indeed they are humbling because they give instant feedback on how much I suck. But I love the challenge and am enjoying the pursuit.
I can’t say enough good about that little Sanrex. For $600 it just an incredible little machine. I’m so thrilled I think I’m going to be buying a Sanrex MIG soon.
The esab red ones I have used a lot, and I like them. They produce a really rough weld, and any flaw is preserved perfectly for you to see lol. I had a laugh at how you described the feedback, that’s very accurate on how it lets you know lol. The good thing is if you can master a consistent weld with that rod you will handle any other rod easily 😀
At home I have a cheap, Harbor freight titanium 225.
It runs 6010 just fine. In fact, it runs all rods beautifully. Better than the Miller multiprocess 220 and Lincoln ranger 9 at work.
It definitely does run 6010, which is why I suggest that welder to people so much. It welds the way it should, and its dial is extremely accurate. Definitely far better than virtually all the “Amazon specials”.
Also, the miller 220 wouldn’t run 6010 virtually at all. I just found out last week that miller did an update to the 220 late 2023 that allows it to run 6010. I am not sure if the one you have at work is pre late 23, but it may be possible to update it so it will run 6010. I would contact miller to find out. I know the 220 I have used in 2022 sure wouldn’t run it lol.
Super informative, thank you! I just bought a yeswelder 250p that claims it can run 6010 but for the life of me, can't keep it lit. I have to be so darn close to fire the rod and keep it there that it eventually sticks or goes out. Can you do a video that shows how exactly you hooked up your volt meter while you were welding? I wanna test it out to see what I'm running while working. Also gonna get some 6011. Thank you again! Got a follow for sure
Thanks for the kind words. So the easiest way to test what’s going on is for you to take a multi meter set for 100 volts or more (on DC) and put the positive wire onto the ground clamp of the welder, and the negative on the stinger. With the ground clamp on your welding table (or what you’re welding on) strike a arc and weld. Have a cell phone recording the display on the multi meter. Your just testing between the stinger and ground clamp. Make sure the meter is set for volts and not amps, amps will cause the fuse to blow.
Likely what’s going on in your situation is the same thing the little red welder in my video is doing, and that’s a failure to have enough closed circuit voltage. Many manufactures lie about 6010 performance, and unfortunately yes welder is one that does. To make a welder that will run 6010 likely costs more money because they need have added electrical components. You may find that as the amperage setting goes up it may be able to produce more voltage without kicking out. The problem is, what good is enough voltage to run a 1/8th rod (around 30-32 volts) when you can only get it at 160 amps? lol. The bigger the rod the higher the amperage needed, and generally speaking bigger rods run at higher voltage too. Due to the volt amp curve of your machine it simply can’t produce the voltage needed at lower amperage output.
6011 will get you most of the way to 6010 when it comes to performance. I prefer 6010 to 6011 but honestly 6011 is pretty solid and easy to run. I am sure your welder will run 6011 since it uses a pinch less voltage.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg greatly appreciate the very in depth response! I will be checking volts this week just to see what it says cause I'm curious now lol. Also will be buying 6011 to try em out. Thank you again!
@@danieltrott8600 for 6011 my suggestion is esab or Lincoln. Hobart is ok but both of those other ones are better in my opinion. 😀
Hobarts supposedly want a higher O.C. voltage to run right - closer to 6010.
Another good 6011 is “Forney” - a bit less “explosive” than Lincoln.
Thanks for explaining the difference between 6010 and 6011. As an amateur I have nit tried 6010, but 6011 has been my favorite for repairs and building things like battery trays and winch mounts. My welders have been ac225 and Hobart Stickmate ACDC. My 6011 welds have never failed structurally, can’t say that about 6013s.
6011 runs pretty similar to 6010 5p rods so if you can run a 6011 well 6010 is not a big deal. The penetration of both is so good it’s hard to not have a good performing weld. I definitely prefer 6011/10 over 6013 other than on flat welds that a smooth bead appearance is needed 😀.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg Unless you are doing coded work where the engineers have called for 6010 then a 6011 is probobly fine. I really like 6013 for when I am welding something thinner than 1/8", I will even run them on AC most of the time to prevent over penetration.
@@yurimodin7333 thats what i do as well
Nice information and breakdown. I had a good idea why they wouldn’t run, but the simplicity of the breakdown helped. On a side note, somehow I stumbled across a European rogue 180 online and inquired what the difference was between that and a U.S. model. The seller said just the plug, but I did some more research and realized that the EU version doesn’t have the high cellulose setting. It kinda caught me off guard
That’s interesting that they wouldn’t have a 6010 mode, they must assume it’s a uncommon rod so there is no need. I believe the welder would probably still run 6010. What the mode does on the rogue 180 (I owned one) is allows you to set program values for 6010 and a program for other rods. So basically you can have say 65% arc force, and 20% hot start on 6010 mode, and 20% arc force and 30% hot start on normal mode. That way if you switch rods you hit a button 1-2 times and you have the machine set how you like it for the different rod (saves a ton of time) It doesn’t actually change the welders power control or voltage, just set points. That’s why I think it would still be able to run 6010. It’s also worth noting that it’s possible European models have voltage reduction devices (VRD) to control voltage output and they make make it tougher to run 6010.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg thank you for dropping some knowledge and being of assistance.
Thanks for the informative video! regarding the Hobart rod, I have a cheapo ebay stick welder (hitbox arc-200) that doesn't like Hobart 6011 at all. it runs other brands ok (takes some doing to light the rod) but the Hobart just won't keep an arc. Maybe their 6011 has more in common with 6010 than other brands.
You could be right. There is quite a lot of variation in 6011 that I have found. It might just be a difference of 1 or two volts extra that makes a rod run on your machine or not run. I have seen that much variation easily among 6011s and especially 6010s. Red rod 6010 and grey rod 5p+ are 2-3 volts average difference, yet they are both “6010s”. As long as you found a 6011 your welder likes your in business. 😀
Yep one video came up. I have a old welder
I had this issue with 7016. Also a root pass rod. My machine has 35 v open circuit on stick mode with VRD. I found they run better on electrode negative.Not sure if this is the same problem youre presenting. Great video. Perhaps an open root is more suited
So DCEN reduces penetration over DCEP. I have not run 7016 DCEN but I have run 7018 DCEN, and it welds pretty decent. Both 7016 and 7018 have a pretty fluid weld pool, DCEN could help prevent blow through or excessive penetration. Something I didn’t mention too, is open root welding requires more voltage than normal close root welding. If you’re limited to 35v it’s entirely possible to exceed that doing a root with a 7016.
@makingmistakeswithgreg Thanks for the reply. I'll do some more practice with some new rods I think 🤔. Perhaps they've been sitting around to long also 👍
you can always dip the 6010 in water, sling it off and give another shot. Don't tell anyone! Also, you can cut those rods in half and you'll have a better shot.
Never cut the rods in half, what does that do? I know if I run a 6010 hot about halfway through a rod it runs different. I always figured it was the moisture baking out of the flux.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg the rod cut in half offers less resistance, so it's easier for the inadequate welder to run it. Of course, I'm talking about fresh rods cut in half, not a leftover rod. Just cut them with a cutting wheel and see if it helps.
WOW that some of the best drawing i ever seen !
My issue is weird. I have a Miller maxstar 210, same exact machine the welders at my job use. At home I can’t run my 1/8” 6010 at lower amps like 70-80, it only runs if I crank the machine up to 100+ but at work and school I do root passes at 70 amps no problem. Same machines, same rods and machine settings. I’m stumped lol
That’s interesting, I have a couple ideas as to why. My first thought is the machine is running on 3 phase elsewhere and single phase at home. The change in electrical input may change what’s called the volt/amp curve of the machine. In simple terms the machine can produce more voltage at lower outputs. 6010 requires a lot of voltage, and open root requires even more voltage. It’s possible your machine won’t output the same voltage as the others.
Another thought is the rods being used. Are you use the exact same rod? Every 6010 uses slightly different voltages (like 5p vs 5p+). It’s possible a change in rods is affecting how they run. Another example of this is many 6010s have a tendency to “fingernail” where the flux burns off uneven. This can make the arc very unstable. If you use a rod that fingernails at home and no elsewhere it will weld worse.
Beyond that if the settings are 100% identical I would contact miller and explain what’s going on. I would also look for a software update as well, it’s possible an update will help.
My lincoln AC run 6010 5p fine
Hi Greg! Thanks for your videos! I think you are the only welder who understands the electricity side as well. :)
Dont you think it would help if you just turn up the small red machine more?
If the voltage is lower then then the current should be also lower.
Especially on my welder machine it heleped with 7018 to crank up more .
So the red welder has more voltage capability at higher amperages, the problem is 6010 needs a ton of voltage at low amperage. 6010 is one of those rods that when you try to crank up it becomes uncontrollable and produces undercut really bad. There is a higher possibility the welder would run a 5/32 6010 over a 1/8th, 5/32s are much harder to find.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg thanks for your fast answer! 👍👍🙂
At 2:50 or so - that’s what would happen with *6011!*
6011 is a perfect tradeoff for a homeowner who might need 6010 but only have an AC machine or a cheap inverter machine. There is also 7018 AC rod. I do not see how 6010 can run on AC. Your arc would stop and start with the sine wave, it would be a fight.
6010 will run on the two ac machines I have, but they are both inverters and possibly are using a pilot arc to keep it lit. 6011 is a very useful rod for most people, definitely in everyone’s best interest to learn to run it 😀
How does the little 6010 button they put on invertor machinces make it output enough voltage to run a 6010? If the machine can run a 6010 with the push of a button, why have the button?
So the answer to that is actually more complex than you would think. The answer is it depends on the welder. Many inverter machines have a 6010 “mode” but in most cases it is not doing anything at all to the power supply from a voltage perspective. The 6010 mode does one of 3 things (it can do multiple of them). 1) it is a separate “memory” function where you can set your parameters unique to 6010 (hot start, arc force, etc) and it saves them. That way when you switch between 7018 and 6010 you just hit the button and the rod runs the way you want it to. Fronius, miller, and esab all do this. 2: the button enables a preset arc force setting that is ideal for 6010. This is most common on cheaper welders that don’t have adjustable arc force. 3: it changes the volt amp curve of the welder. This is the least likely and more common with engine drives than plug in welders. It would be possible for this to work on a normal welder but unlikely.
So in essence the 6010 mode that welders advertise is not typically anything more than a way to save settings. All welders that weld with 6010 will weld with 6010 in normal mode. They just might not have the arc force setting that’s ideal, but they will have no issue outputting the voltage. Hopefully that makes sense.
Edit: I know this for a face because I have owned atleast 8 welders that had 6010 modes and all of them ran 6010 without being in 6010 mode.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg Well ain't that some stuff. Yes sir, I think I'm grasping what you're saying. Thanks for the reply.
Everything you said makes perfect sense but I'd still take a Fronius (25v OCV) with Dynamic (inductance) cranked to 100% over a Miller Dynasty any day. It'll cut out on your less AND it has a hot start that's not permanently set on "barely." Although full disclosure other things I'd take over a Miller Dynasty include a poke in both eyes.
Fronius seems to make good welders, but they can’t figure out distribution, they have no resale, and I can’t even buy one from a authorized retailer within 1.5 hour drive of my place (and I live in a major city). I am not brand loyal but the dynasty is a better tig welder than everything else on the market when you look at the big picture. On paper fronius is the only one that compares, and the reason I don’t own one is due to the lack of distribution and poor resale. I can buy a used fronius 230 tig machine with wireless foot pedal and water cooler that’s almost new for less money than a used dynasty like I own without the foot pedal or cooler. It’s been up for sale for 3 months with no bites. The resale on fronius around here is half of miller (despite costing the same at the start), with very few buyers. That plays a role for me because I swap machines every 2-3 years and I know the miller will sell for top dollar.
When you compare actual capability with tig (the minimum/max setting adjustments, duty cycle, what can be adjusted, power efficiency, physical size/weight, there isn’t really a comparable product to the dynasty. Many welders come close but they are unfortunately not the same. I wish fronius was able to figure out better distribution/marketing in the states because they seem to have excellent products. I just won’t pay 6-7k for something that nobody will pay 3k for 2 years later when I can buy a miller product for 6-7 and sell it for 4500 the first day it’s listed no questions asked.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg What specifically does a Dynasty do that an Everlast PowerTIG doesn't? You can get the same output ranges at the same duty cycles with all the same features AND a proper hot start in stick mode. If you're looking ONLY at feature completeness, even Eastwood and Alpha can do everything a Dynasty can do.
Hi, I have a snider 200(140 amps) I can't get 7018 to run , 6013 runs well any tips. Comments?
Thank you😊
If it’s a issue with the welder it could be that it can’t produce enough voltage to run 7018. Are you able to strike a arc at all? If the rod starts, runs, and then just goes out the issue is your welder can’t produce enough voltage to keep the arc lit. If the rod sticks a lot and is impossible to start try switching the esab 7018 prime or harbor freights 7018. Both have a graphite tip that makes it far easier to start with welders that have low open circuit voltage.
Hi I’ve just run into a problem today with my stick welder it turns on but it just stopped welding I have good earths but when you strike the rod it does nothing
Depending on the particular welder it may have a internal fuse that is popped and that is why. To troubleshoot what’s going on use a voltage tester and check the voltage between the stinger and ground cable. If it’s AC test on ac if it’s DC output check for dc. If it has no voltage present remove the welding cables and check the welder outputs. If it has no power unplug the machine and look inside if it has some sort of internal fuse, and verify it’s not blown. If there is no fuse then it’s possible something is damaged.
Another reason for these cheap welder not keeping the arc voltage high seems to be a matter of efficency. They normally use MOSFET instead of IGBT. And as Another viewer said, they have very small transformers cos copper is expensive 8nd for that lower inductance and - tada voltage drops on load....
Makes total sense. I learn something new every day 😀
Hi, I'm having issues with this machine to weld with E6013 ,not quite remember what thickness rods, it could be 3/16. It constantly stinking to the metal not matter what I do. I changed current from 110 t 7:15 o 220v and its the same issue even with 1/8, 6011. It's just a pain in the neck to get it to wok.. i was trying 90-140Amp DC. what can you tell me to get this to work.? Any info will work, thanks hope to hear from you.
If your machine is sticking rods you probably have low open circuit voltage, which makes it much harder to start a rod. Will it weld with 6013 at all? What welder is it (brand and model)? It might be a issue with the welder itself and switching to a different welder will be better.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg the welder name is (yeswelder) listed below in the link. It's not welding with either 6011-6013 neither working on 220v. Yes, Im thinking of getting a different welder.. in the mean time, can you recommend one to me that's under $200.?
@@declanosbourne62 there might be something wrong with the unit because it should atleast weld with 6013. 6013 will literally run on car batteries. I would contact yes welder and see if they will work with you to get a replacement at no charge.
From a welder perspective, I highly recommend you look at the titanium 225 from harbor freight. With a coupon it’s 250$, which I know is a bit over your budget, but it will run any rod you want (6010, 6011,etc) and it welds really good. It also is far easier to start rods than most cheap welders. It’s worth it to go to that welder.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg thank you sir.
sorry about A bunch of comments but I just now finished the video. So I'm used to using the big high-end machines at school and the thing would work. I didn't have arcs going out! never could get it to arc! It was like it was in one of those silly videos where the guy is grounded to would instead of his peace
One of the biggest bummers I had was when I ran 6010 in school, and it worked great. Then I bought my own welder and it would barely run 6011, and not remotely weld 6010. That was when I realized the importance of making sure a welder will run 6010, and that most can’t. 6010 is a awesome rod so it pays to be able to run it.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg in or out of school I've never gotten it to run
as and old soviet welder we took our test with steel metal clothes hanger it was hell but you can use 6010 😅n ac tombstone with about 125 amps or 150 ac with 210 volt power cable o cant buy a new tombstone becouse of the new breaker and powerline bullshit and i tested it with meter and it just shits out 120 volts on 40 amps also my gramdfather tied two tombstone 250 s togeter and now does like 500 amps but the draw,back was he hade to jerry rig a small ragerater and eletric engein to work the fan and coolant pump hahaha
AC or DC, 6010 requires a lot of voltage. They are more energy inefficient than other electrodes.
Recently I was testing my esab stick welder and found that a 1/8th 6010 at 90 amps was the same output wattage as a 1/8th 7018 at 120amps on that welder since the 7018 runs at such lower voltage. It definitely requires a ton of power considering the amp draw.
I bought a Chinese welder last Fall before deciding to buy my Esab. I knew it wouldn’t run 6010, so I bought the HF Vulcan 3/32 6011 and for the most part, the Chinese welder did ok with them. Then I bought a pack of Esab Sureweld 6011 3/32. The Chinese welder would not run them at all. So there’s definitely some significant differences between different brands, even with the AWS spec. Fast forward a few months, the Esab 6011 runs just fine on my Esab welder. It just needed that hotter voltage.
A couple volt difference is all it takes to keep a rod from running. I haven’t tested 6011 but my guess is 7018 3/32 is around 23 volts, 6011 is 26 volts, and 6010 3/32 is probably 29 volts. I bet rod to rod there will be a 1-2 volt difference with 6011 which could be easily enough to cause a welder with low closed circuit voltage to not run one 6011. The 6010/11 rods are so useful is sucks if you can’t run them
Mine does not. But then again, there are no 6010s in Europe, anyway 😂
That’s what I have heard. You guys do have special 6013s that function closer to a 6011 than our 6013s 😀.
So the votes aren't dropping or increasing the longer you weld adding heat
Volts in stick are controlled by how long of a arc gap you have, and what rod you’re running. 6010 requires 30+ volts, 7018 requires 24 or so volts. Lengthening the arc gap will increase volts and thus increase the heat, however the heat is not concentrated which means the metal plate you’re welding will actually cool. Although the plates cool, the rod gets hotter due to the higher voltage, and will commonly start to melt balls of steel off. So effectively a longer arc gap will decrease the heat in the metal and increase the heat on the rod.