I love my Dura Ace 9000 mechanical. Cycling for me is about leaving the electronic world, not moving closer to that kind of dependency. My cycling computer is a simple speed and odometer cateye. If the power goes out or the charge fails, I'll still be out on my ride.
Exactly. People always claim to want to be environmentally friendly. You know what’s more friendly than electric thinks? Mechanical things drive by human power.
Until 4 years ago, I was still on a down tube shifting bike with a 7 gear cassette. Got an ultegra di2 and loved it. This year bought a 105. Both groups are exceptional. I have no problems going from one bike to the other.
Mechanical VS DI2 - If you buy the mechanical groupset, the exces budget can be used for better wheels etc, I think this is a better investment.. (this is the route I went, and arguably I shifting does deteriorate over time, but new cables etc once a year is usually good enough to keep it working pristine)
The di2 bull, mechanical works very well shifting wise, he didn't even mention that say 105 and ultegra mechanical shift amazingly well and it's only a luxury for di2. GCN and others sometimes make it out like a bike won't move if it ain't got di2 hahaha
That's my plan. I saved like $500 by opting to go with a 105 group set vs Ultegra on my new bike. I genuinely couldn't feel the difference between the two. I'm planning on using the money saved for some new accessories and eventually a set of wheels
@@bendunbar8334 105 did NOT work well on my 2014 Synapse. It was the internally-routed version and it sucked worse than Claris. Seriously, I have had both. When I got Di2 I was stunned at the quality of the shifting.
For the saddle adjustment, a bike mechanic once told me that sometime you need to lube dry screw threads (as counterintuitive as it may sound). The road vibrations would make them loosen and the lube prevents helps to prevent this.
Di2 Ultegra for me. I retrofitted my 2014 Specialized Allez Elite with Di2 Ultegra primarily because of the persistent neuropathy in the first two fingers of both my right and left hand. That made mechanical shifting very challenging and the Di2 solved that problem. It works like a charm and now I can ride far, far longer and feel confident that I will feel everything, except for the neuropathy. Yes, the neuropathy is bad but that’s what happens when you completely sever the long head bicep tendon in both shoulders...
Hi GCN, perhaps you might wanna cover in depth about tyre. In my knowledge, rolling resistance is the measurement of how much energy lost to deform and re-form tyre when tyre is subjected to motion/rotation force. For example it takes 25 watt to deform/compress the rubber compound and it only takes around 15 watt to return to it's original form. Please cover this topic about tyre from tyre manufacturers like , continental,schwalbe, or pirelli. Were getting tyred seeing unclear theory about tire. #askGCNtech
I have both and have had pros and cons of both. Mechanical: - PROS: less expensive for same level. Rear is easy to setup (if you have done it before). Reliable, never "runs out of battery." - CONS: shifting not quite as crisp (though still good for Ultegra+). Front derailleur is a ***** to setup. Cables stretch, fray, etc. Frequently requires minor adjustments. Di2: - PROS: looks and sounds awesome (seriously, it does). When setup properly, operates flawlessly every time. Requires little maintenance. Shifts are crisp and fast. Auto micro-adjustments - CONS: pricey. I have had to replace several parts and it hurts shelling out $200 for a derailleur. When it malfunctions, you're hosed; ride over. When battery dies; ride over. Can be difficult to setup if you have never done it before (rather easy afterward, though).
With the saddle issue, it is worth checking the seatpost and saddle are compatible rail sizes. 7x7mm round railed saddle will always slip in a clamp designed for 7x9mm oval railed saddle
!!!!!WRONG!!!!! , Shimano changed the pulling ratio of 10 speed with Tiagra . The Ultegra 6700 and 105 5700 dérailleurs won't work with Tiagra 4700 STIs
Yes absolutely right, 4700 series have the same pull as 11speed shimano components. You can use a 11s speed derailleur with 4700series shifters with a 10s cassette.
@@hannahuang6118 @Hanna Huang your wrong, When shimano introduced their new slickshift technology that basically means the shift feels equal tension in the lowest gear when the spring is stressed as it does in the highest gear this means R5700 and R6700 will work okay in the highest gears but the pull ratio lowers as it shifts to the lower gears to create a nice low tension feel at the levers. This was first introduced in R9000 R6800 and R5800 and has been carried on through the new R9100 R8000 R7000 and R4700. Basically if you try it your be constantly chasing the indexing in the lower range gears as they just won't run silent or as smooth.
It will work, but not as good as the 4700. I installed the 4600 rear mech with the 4700 shifters and no matter the tuning, 1 or 2 cogs will always be noisy because of the difference in actuation.
The 2021 TCR disc, 2021 Emonda, Cervelo S5 and all Canyon Ultimate rim brake bikes are not compatible with the Wahoo Kickr range. Check with bike manufacturer and trainer brand compatibility before using
If No - Save up until you do. Buy it bit by bit when you see an offer. I asked GCN some weeks ago - with no reply - if you could operate Di2 with Climber buttons only, hence saving the expense of new shifters as they are the most expensive bits. I don't see why not. Then it is just a case of new derailleurs, a battery and a few wires /junction boxes.
@@d.gwebster1109 The other things that changed my cycling life the most for the better (It's not an upgrade) was to start using paraffin wax on my chain, and getting more compact drop bars. But Di2 is the biggest thing and it's for so many reasons both while riding, and also in terms of ease of maintenance. With thatcsaid, 105 and Ultegra mechanical are awesome, and a whole lot less $$. But if you can afford it, go with Ultegra Di2.
I actually killed my first road bike because I was riding 28 mm tyres and all the sand, mud and dirt ate through the frame like sandpaper. There are 4 mm of material missing from the brake bridge where the bolt attaches the rear brake. I just ignored it and noticed it too late.
The first "electronic" groupset was made by Mavic. I've seen it in person, it looks amazing. Unfortunately most bike shops won't work on it. I'm not a fan of Di2. Thanks.
Di2 to mechanical at the same price point is comparing apples to oranges. If you want to save weight get dura-ace, Di2 if you can afford it will get you 'trouble free shifting' but the mechanical is like butter and is likely as good as it will ever get from shimano if the 9200 series comes with only electronic option. If you want similar shifting performance to the dura-ace Di2, but don't want to shell out the clams and don't mind the slight increase in weight, then get ultegra Di2. If you don't care about weight and don't mind adjusting your indexing once in a while then go the ultegra mechanical. but at that stage, just save some serious money get the the mechanical 105, that groupset punches well above its price!
@R. Schowiada71 Amen. Can't see the point in swapping equipment whose durability is measured in decades, to durability measured in hours before battery goes flat.
I asked GCN some weeks ago - with no reply - if you could operate Di2 with Climber buttons only, hence saving the expense of new shifters as they are the most expensive bits. I just had the following a reply from Terry@ Bettershifting.com - check out his website for all things Di2. "It'll [Di2] work with any Di2 shift unit. This can be a briftter, or just a Di2 button. SW-R600 for example. Now.. the shift units do need to be Di2/Shimano shifters with some kind of Di2 logic/pcb. The SW-R610 shifters the only one that will NOT work on its own. These are basically just switches and they only work when plugged into the dedicated sprint shifter port on rim brake brifters". Thanks Terry
1st question...i've been using vittoria corsa speed 2.0 in 25 mm width since two years now day in day out...2 punctures in all (one in the dry one in the wet both sealed by stans race sealant and later fixed with a patch for peace of mind) and 4 tires used so far on a Colnago c60, dt swiss prc 35's and at 6 bars pressure (tubeless of course). LOve TT tires!!!
Mechanical gives you a few more optins to limp home with a fix "in the field" when needed. That said, most of my cycling group isn't that creative or mechanically inclined anyway. If you're going to call Uber anyway, you might as well get Di2.
I use water in the bottle and a pocket with dates and cashews. I keep it real simple, really affordable, all natural. Also, if you check many of the energy snack bars, many have dates and cashews as ingredients. Keeping them in a more natural state is healthier and cheaper. Works for me, but as Ollie mentioned, ends up a very personal choice.
I don't see myself going back to Di2 any time soon i had a horrible experience with Di2 when it works it is heaven but when it does not it is hell and an expensive hell so NO thanks...
Energy bars with protein? Clif bars! Carbs, protein, a bit of fat, a bit of sugar, and even an electrolyte (sodium). Many different flavors and easily accessible through Amazon.
I bought my Van Nicholas Aquilo with Ultegra DI2 seven years ago and the gear shifting has always been impeccable. Okay, it doesn't get ridden on the Gloucestershire / Somerset lanes near me when they're full of winter mud and grit, but it just always works. I think it's such a great piece of engineering.
I guess there is a misunderstanding with the 105 5700 and Tiagra 4700 compatibility. They simply won't work together since the 4700 shifters have the same cable pull ratio of newer 5800 and 6800 series. @MasJoko Your 5700 rear derailleur is compatible with older generation 4600 brifters.
Widest tire clearance I've seen on a road bike is 38 mm so you could put okay gravel tires on those. I suspect we'll see such tire clearances on more and more bikes.
Tire clearance is only a part of the story for gravel bikes. Head tube angle (so trail), chain stay length, BB drop...those are all things that will affect the handling. A couple of centimeter of chainstay lenght makes a massive difference. As does one degree less of head angle. In addition to this gravel bikes tend to be more relaxed than road bike in their fit, which normally means larger stack and shorter reach. For example bikes like the OPEN U.P. despite being absolutely fantastic to ride, do not really allow you to have as much fun off road as with a proper gravel bike, because it has clearance for large tires, but the geometry is a bit too aggressive for gravel. In my opinion 435mm of chainstays, 71° of head angle and around 74° seat tube angle (depending on your fit) is the sweet spot for a fun gravel bike that is not slow on the road as well
Go old-school with GORP (Good old raisins and peanuts) -- good combo of carbs, protein and fat. Hard to do better for long-ride fueling. Substitute whatever dried fruit and nuts you prefer. Dates and cashews is my fave.
Rick Snyder - My protein Flapjack is fantastic for riding. 300 cals, 20g protein, high carb and you can fit 3 easily in the smallest jersey pocket. About 60p each when on the 40% off sales.
In reference to the saddle movement. I have a Bianchi Aria that came with an aluminum saddle mount that interfaced with the top of the carbon post. The two materials do not work well together with friction, my saddle kept tilting up and down. I had to order the newer version of the saddle mount which is all aluminum. The saddle clamp is the one that allows it to be reversed for the triathlon position. I hope this helps.
Rissotto balls with mungbean choco hempseed paste based on cocomilk. Throw some dates or vigs into the mix, add cinamon and your set. Throw in the fridge for at least a day.
It may be a bit of a luxury, but Di2 shifting is quicker, doesnt need adjusting after the intial set up, and never rubs no matter what gear I'm in. My old bike on the other hand, has mechanical and needs constant fettling to keep the gears happy. The front mech is an especially finicky piece of kit, but that may be due to the frame as much as anything else, but it wouldn't be an issue with electronic shifting. Also batteries only need charging every 2 - 3 months and with the wireless adaptor, my head unit tells me exactly when that is. The only down side is the beep that tells me I've run out of gears and I'm going to struggle up the rest of the hill.
To the person whose saddle gets loose after a few miles: If your installation involves seat clamp 'ears', are you sure they are the right size? The channels cut into the inside of the ears are different sizes for different rails. I know of at least three different standards for saddle rail cross-sections - round, and two differently sized oval cross-sections.
A bit late, but regarding ST-4700 (Tiagra 10 speed) compatibility with 10-speed 105 RD-4700, the Shimano compatibility chart shows that 4700 levers are not compatible with other 10-speed levers (4600, 5700 or 6700). "The Internet" claims this is because, although they are 10 speed, they have the 11-speed cable pull ratio - the CS-4700 cassettes are interchangeable with other 10-speed systems, but the 4700 rear derailleur and levers must be used together
Electronic shifting all day long. Not one cyclist ever rode it and didn't say "wow". Precise and effortless, it is as you say Ollie, a genuine game changer. Personally, I prefer the SRAM over Shimano because of the simplicity (it's completely wireless) but hey whatever. The real problem with electronic shifting is that it needs to be factored into your N+1 problem. If like me you own more than one bike you will always be looking for reasons to have electronics on your winter bike because you really notice the step down.
@@adamlynch9153 I hear ya but I run SRAM with my WAHOO BOLT and I charge all those suckers once a month (every payday is a trigger) and none of them is below 30% at that time. That’s 10-15 hours of on bike riding each and every week. Week in. Week out. Summer and Winter. Your mileage may vary but don’t for a minute buy into the falsehood that Shimano is pushing. I have used both and SRAM just wins in every category that you want to suggest. Tailwinds Bro.,
Don't agree that the only difference between Dura Aca and 105 mechanical groupsets is the weight. IMO the weight is the least important difference, the biggest improvement is in longevity. In my experience if you look at the groupsets after 2 or 3 years the performance difference is much greater - Dura Ace or Ultegra work better for longer and last without failing for much longer. Worth the extra, especially on gravel or CX.
My 2 year old Di2 Tarmac is in its second week at the shop as it keeps draining batteries overnight. My local shop has gone through various diagnostics with Shimano. Just calling Shimano has taken days each time and we’re no closer to solving the issue. So... no, I wouldn’t fit Di2 again. Anecdotally, Di2 feels wonderful when it works but when it failed it was catastrophic and resulted in "looks like you'll need to replace the entire $1200 group set that's no longer under warranty". I’ll be moving to SRAM on the next bike.
As far as I'm aware, 4700 use 11 speed pull ratio, that's why it wouldn't work with other 10 speed components. And I've tried myself, 4700 rear derailleur does work with 11 speed bar end shifters on 11 speed cassette.
eventually more and more bikes will be equipped with electronic group set. I am looking for a new bike to replace a 2006 TCR which I have spent a lot of time upgrading the components myself. The difference of the bike I am planning to get is $1000 USD between Ultegra Di2 and mechanical, if replacing the set separately will definitely cost much more. So to me that’s worth going to Di2.
For those that need protein on long rides, try this homemade gel: 50 grams (g) Maltodextrin, 25g peanut butter powder, 30g sugar, 2g salt, 5g dark cocoa powder, 7g instant coffee, 70g of hot water. Combine all dry ingredients. Whisk in the hot water. Pour into a gel flask. Won't spoil on ride, keep in refrig up to 10 days, very inexpensive
Co op in the UK do a cheap protein bar made with beets and dates, high carb and way lower fat than any other protein bar I have ever seen. Quite "real foody" and also dairy and egg free.
@Matthew Ho: Electric Shifting is THE BEST THING EVER! I'm on eTap and Love It Love It Love It, I reckon you'll have a similar experience with Shimano's system. Do The "2"!!! Cheers!
I agree that it's great to see the clearance on the Domane but it's still relatively rare. Most people's first thought when you say Trek road bike would be Emonda and/or Madone. Domane is arguably a gravel bike being marketed as a road bike.
@@nimblybimbly4002 What characteristics of a gravel bike does it have other than clearance? A Domane is as much a road bike as most bikes in any bike shop.
The new Trek Domane takes 38 milimiter tyres according to the manufacturer which means it can take 40 milimiters. My old Domane is recommended for maximum 32 milimiters and I have fitted 35 milimiters with no issues. In conclusion, a road bike can be used in gravel.
This bike was really easy to assemble czcams.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA and required very few adjustments out of the box. The wheels did not require any truing/adjustments. The frame had some small scratches, but nothing major.I did replace the seat though - the seat it came with was very uncomfortable. The tires need to be re-inflated every 4-5 days, but this appears to be quite common for the narrow 700x25 tires.Overall, in my opinion, this bike looks and rides like a much more expensive bike.
My nutrition method for long rides is to have protein and fat with a few carbs early in the morning and then survive on sugary drinks and water for the next few hours and then get more real food carbs if necessary. I could never get used to eating on the bike, only drinking.
I also remember having read about that when new 10x Tiagra was released. So in all cases: Look up compatibility before buying or replacing parts. #askgcntech Could you check that again? Brifters are expensive so better safe than sorry.
an absolute newbie here, still rocking sora groupset with 600km mileage in. Gonna upgrade when i hit 2000km or 3000km mark 😂 who's still using Sora 9speed groupset?
I had Sora until I bent the FSA triple crankset and replaced the whole lot. I'd stick with Sora until it looks tired or you are suddenly good enough to be held back by having Sora. At least the new stuff doesn't have the stupid thumb shifter to downshift.
I wouldn't just upgrade the groupset on a bike with Sora, its alot of money, £400 at best for tiagra 2x10. Then you may need new wheels. £250 and up. Sell your bike, take that money, guessing maybe £200-300 for the bike possibly less, that's £850 you have to spend, and that's only a small upgrade to tiagra, if you were thinking of 2x11 add another £200 that's £1050 at least budget for a new bike, say from a quick search of £1000 bikes a canyon endurance AL.
If you're using the new r3000 Sora - leave it on. You wouldn't benefit much from Tiagra - 1 gear more and a few more sizes of chainrings - and that's for a load of money! I would put 105 or top end tektro calipers (or anything symmetrical dual pivot) and leave the rest intact. If it's set up well, you can't tell the difference from Tiagra. I even dare to say the same for r2000 Claris which I've had for 3 years. Also, upgrading to 11s means new cassette body and stuff - it's easier and cheaper to sell the bike, trust me.
Di2 is hands down the logical choice if you can budget for it. I'd rather the peace of mind that my shifting is always going to be perfect for the small compromise of charging it once a week or so. If di2 was available in 105 I'd be all over if for my winter bike.
Noone has ever explained why the shifting performance is better with di2, it's just been stated. I assume it is because a downshift is pushed by the motor and not by the spring in the mech. Is it because it feels like a new cable?
Well, if money wasn't an issue you get electric. However, unless you are a pro (or a dentist...) money is an issue for all of us. I went electric last year because I got a sudden, one time influx of cash. Normally, I would do mech, but I decided to treat myself.
Good: pointing out the shimano compatibility docs. Bad: ignoring what it says and stating that 4700 brifters are compatible with 5700. They aren't, at least not for the rear derailleur even though they're both 10 speed parts and the spacing is the same. The cable pull is not the same. 4600 brifters are compatible with 5700 rear derailleurs though, but have the old style external cable routing. productinfo.shimano.com/#/com?cid=C-453&acid=C-454
the answer is always [105], i can barely remember to recharge my lights... imagine having a shifter battery die on a group ride: i've seen it happen "oof lol"
Hang on: the 5700 shifter is not compatible with the 4700 rear derailleur. The best option for the RD-4700 is (obviously) the 4700 shifter. Alternatively you can use a 5800 (yes, the 11 speed one) or any other Shimano road bike specific 11 speed shifters. However, these options are (almost always) more expensive. Why? Because the 4700 shifter has the same pulling ratio of 11 speed road shifters. And, no, the 4700 rear derailleur wouldn’t work with the 4600 shifter.
#AskGCNTech I ride 800-900 miles per month. How often should I service my bottom bracket? My headset? I have a newer, ceramic threaded bottom bracket. Is it just a matter of removing the bearings and cleaning out the cups?
Firstly, good on you for that mileage! It all depends so much on the headset/bottom bracket type and the weather, type of riding etc. You could add this to the question if you want a better answer from them. Personally, I'm not bothered about maximising efficiency so I just replace the bearings when I feel a bit of play or a 'roughness' which is caused by pitting. In terms of servicing, old bikes will have bearing cages which run directly in the cups, you'll need to replace the balls or the whole ball and cage assembly, after a while the cups will need replacing too. Then came sealed cartridge bottom brackets, which aren't serviceable and you would need to replace the whole thing, but they are sealed and last much longer. A modern bike (apart from budget models with a square taper bb and/or threaded headset) should have sealed bearings which can just be replaced. You'll need a bearing puller and press, and they just pop out of the cups and you press the new ones in.
Both my frames barely take 28mm width tires. Also, I had to re-tension the spokes to move the rim a few mm to one side because the sidewall was rubbing on the frame.
same reason some folks like older cars, you dont need lane assist or tire pressure monitoring to enjoy a drive. its much easier to troubleshoot a mechanical device than an electric one, i dont want a heart rate monitor and gps determining my most efficient gear and switching it for me, i know that not in the owners manual yet but sometimes a simple answer to changing gears is the right one for a given experience. ill stick to my friction shifters for awhile yet.
#AskGCNTech Hi Ollie and Alex! Just want to make it clear, there is a few comments that points out about the "briefters" word I believe that MasJoko (the one who ask about Shimano 5700 10-speed shifter) is actually from Indonesia, and Indonesians quite unfamiliar with "STI lever" word. So there you go!
It’s a no brainer. If you’re in a market for a high end group set. You should opt for the electronic shifters. There’s no point getting the cable pull version when you’re spending that kind of money.
I’d go dura ace mechanical - they may feel the same “out of the box” - after 10,000 miles the 105 will be worn out - the dura ace will outlast Ollie... If you get di2 - remember that PC laptop, and windows, and updates, and $500 when you bend a derailleur...
@@adamlynch9153 not to use it. But if you want to change any settings - or troubleshoot a problem - then yes you will need a laptop running windows. I think the new 12 speed stuff uses Bluetooth and a phone app - but the 10 speed di2 I worked on needed a laptop.
Shamanth K S: Hoping you see this.. I own a Kestrel and had a similar problem where my seat would just randomly tilt back or forward every second or third ride. It turned out the seat clamp bolt was working its way loose over time. My remedy was blue loc-tite (the weakest one). The bolt no longer backs out and the seat hasn't dumped me off in over a year. I've had the bolt out several times for adjustments without difficulty or damage.
9:25 for title question. You're welcome.
Thanks man. These guys rlly need some chapters
🤘
Legend !! thank you
105 ftw
yes you should. Without a di2 or mechanical groupset it would be very hard to change gear x
lol
Top kek
Hahahah true!
Lmao
Just pull the wire.
I love my Dura Ace 9000 mechanical. Cycling for me is about leaving the electronic world, not moving closer to that kind of dependency. My cycling computer is a simple speed and odometer cateye. If the power goes out or the charge fails, I'll still be out on my ride.
Exactly. People always claim to want to be environmentally friendly. You know what’s more friendly than electric thinks? Mechanical things drive by human power.
Until 4 years ago, I was still on a down tube shifting bike with a 7 gear cassette. Got an ultegra di2 and loved it. This year bought a 105. Both groups are exceptional. I have no problems going from one bike to the other.
Mechanical VS DI2 - If you buy the mechanical groupset, the exces budget can be used for better wheels etc, I think this is a better investment.. (this is the route I went, and arguably I shifting does deteriorate over time, but new cables etc once a year is usually good enough to keep it working pristine)
The di2 bull, mechanical works very well shifting wise, he didn't even mention that say 105 and ultegra mechanical shift amazingly well and it's only a luxury for di2. GCN and others sometimes make it out like a bike won't move if it ain't got di2 hahaha
That's my plan. I saved like $500 by opting to go with a 105 group set vs Ultegra on my new bike. I genuinely couldn't feel the difference between the two. I'm planning on using the money saved for some new accessories and eventually a set of wheels
@@bendunbar8334 I agree. I have used Ultegra, Dura Ace and GRX mechanical groupsets and they all shift about the same.
@@bendunbar8334 105 did NOT work well on my 2014 Synapse. It was the internally-routed version and it sucked worse than Claris. Seriously, I have had both. When I got Di2 I was stunned at the quality of the shifting.
@@xchopp the latest model of 105 came out in 2018.
For the saddle adjustment, a bike mechanic once told me that sometime you need to lube dry screw threads (as counterintuitive as it may sound). The road vibrations would make them loosen and the lube prevents helps to prevent this.
Opus crescendo with ultegra Di2. I love it
Di2 Ultegra for me. I retrofitted my 2014 Specialized Allez Elite with Di2 Ultegra primarily because of the persistent neuropathy in the first two fingers of both my right and left hand. That made mechanical shifting very challenging and the Di2 solved that problem. It works like a charm and now I can ride far, far longer and feel confident that I will feel everything, except for the neuropathy. Yes, the neuropathy is bad but that’s what happens when you completely sever the long head bicep tendon in both shoulders...
Hi GCN, perhaps you might wanna cover in depth about tyre.
In my knowledge, rolling resistance is the measurement of how much energy lost to deform and re-form tyre when tyre is subjected to motion/rotation force. For example it takes 25 watt to deform/compress the rubber compound and it only takes around 15 watt to return to it's original form.
Please cover this topic about tyre from tyre manufacturers like , continental,schwalbe, or pirelli.
Were getting tyred seeing unclear theory about tire.
#askGCNtech
"tyred" - good pun there!
I have both and have had pros and cons of both.
Mechanical:
- PROS: less expensive for same level. Rear is easy to setup (if you have done it before). Reliable, never "runs out of battery."
- CONS: shifting not quite as crisp (though still good for Ultegra+). Front derailleur is a ***** to setup. Cables stretch, fray, etc. Frequently requires minor adjustments.
Di2:
- PROS: looks and sounds awesome (seriously, it does). When setup properly, operates flawlessly every time. Requires little maintenance. Shifts are crisp and fast. Auto micro-adjustments
- CONS: pricey. I have had to replace several parts and it hurts shelling out $200 for a derailleur. When it malfunctions, you're hosed; ride over. When battery dies; ride over. Can be difficult to setup if you have never done it before (rather easy afterward, though).
With the saddle issue, it is worth checking the seatpost and saddle are compatible rail sizes. 7x7mm round railed saddle will always slip in a clamp designed for 7x9mm oval railed saddle
"Should You Fit A Di2 Or Mechanical Groupset To Your Bike?" - Yes, I would fully recommend fitting either a Di2 or a mechanical groupset to your bike.
umm how about a fixie? ;)
SRAM: "Am I a joke to you"
CAMPY: sono uno scherzo per te?
Mavic Mektronic left the chat
@@lechprotean Not really a groupset since there are no gears (1 gear)
!!!!!WRONG!!!!! , Shimano changed the pulling ratio of 10 speed with Tiagra . The Ultegra 6700 and 105 5700 dérailleurs won't work with Tiagra 4700 STIs
Yes absolutely right, 4700 series have the same pull as 11speed shimano components. You can use a 11s speed derailleur with 4700series shifters with a 10s cassette.
Cannings is outraged.
No but now a R4700 user could up grade to a R9100 mech 😉
4700 shifters works only with 4700 RD and all 11 speed RD. In this case, all 10 speed Shimano shifters except 4700, should work with 5700 group.
@@hannahuang6118 @Hanna Huang your wrong, When shimano introduced their new slickshift technology that basically means the shift feels equal tension in the lowest gear when the spring is stressed as it does in the highest gear this means R5700 and R6700 will work okay in the highest gears but the pull ratio lowers as it shifts to the lower gears to create a nice low tension feel at the levers. This was first introduced in R9000 R6800 and R5800 and has been carried on through the new R9100 R8000 R7000 and R4700. Basically if you try it your be constantly chasing the indexing in the lower range gears as they just won't run silent or as smooth.
Don't do anything until Shimano releases the new groupset
Like you’re comment Funny 🤣
Ollie, you would have to use a 4700 rear mech with the 4700 shifters, however 4600 will work fine.
It will work, but not as good as the 4700. I installed the 4600 rear mech with the 4700 shifters and no matter the tuning, 1 or 2 cogs will always be noisy because of the difference in actuation.
Re the saddle issue: if the saddle clamp has two screws, tightening them gradually and evenly alternating between the two sometimes helps.
The 2021 TCR disc, 2021 Emonda, Cervelo S5 and all Canyon Ultimate rim brake bikes are not compatible with the Wahoo Kickr range. Check with bike manufacturer and trainer brand compatibility before using
Do you have money?
If Yes → Di2
If No → Mechanical
If No - Save up until you do. Buy it bit by bit when you see an offer.
I asked GCN some weeks ago - with no reply - if you could operate Di2 with Climber buttons only, hence saving the expense of new shifters as they are the most expensive bits. I don't see why not. Then it is just a case of new derailleurs, a battery and a few wires /junction boxes.
Di2 was the upgrade on my bike that I have liked the best. More than wheels.
Same here, I don't think I could go back. I also like the Di2 wireless adaptor, apart from when it beeps to tell me I've no more gears left.
@@d.gwebster1109 The other things that changed my cycling life the most for the better (It's not an upgrade) was to start using paraffin wax on my chain, and getting more compact drop bars. But Di2 is the biggest thing and it's for so many reasons both while riding, and also in terms of ease of maintenance. With thatcsaid, 105 and Ultegra mechanical are awesome, and a whole lot less $$. But if you can afford it, go with Ultegra Di2.
Mechanical all the way for me. GCN will never say a word on the down side's of electronic. That's why we have Durainrder ...😜
I actually killed my first road bike because I was riding 28 mm tyres and all the sand, mud and dirt ate through the frame like sandpaper. There are 4 mm of material missing from the brake bridge where the bolt attaches the rear brake. I just ignored it and noticed it too late.
The first "electronic" groupset was made by Mavic. I've seen it in person, it looks amazing. Unfortunately most bike shops won't work on it. I'm not a fan of Di2. Thanks.
As a Biltong munching South African, I particularly enjoyed the, „going the classic Masai route“ quip!
Di2 to mechanical at the same price point is comparing apples to oranges.
If you want to save weight get dura-ace, Di2 if you can afford it will get you 'trouble free shifting' but the mechanical is like butter and is likely as good as it will ever get from shimano if the 9200 series comes with only electronic option.
If you want similar shifting performance to the dura-ace Di2, but don't want to shell out the clams and don't mind the slight increase in weight, then get ultegra Di2.
If you don't care about weight and don't mind adjusting your indexing once in a while then go the ultegra mechanical. but at that stage, just save some serious money get the the mechanical 105, that groupset punches well above its price!
Love my 9100 Dura Ace mechanical.
I'm facing this dilemma as we speak. I'm leaning toward Di2 but it's SO expensive. You only live once though, right?
@R. Schowiada71 Amen. Can't see the point in swapping equipment whose durability is measured in decades, to durability measured in hours before battery goes flat.
you dont only live once!
SI.Shimano.. awesome tip! Thanks Ollie!
I asked GCN some weeks ago - with no reply - if you could operate Di2 with Climber buttons only, hence saving the expense of new shifters as they are the most expensive bits.
I just had the following a reply from Terry@ Bettershifting.com - check out his website for all things Di2.
"It'll [Di2] work with any Di2 shift unit. This can be a briftter, or just a Di2 button. SW-R600 for example. Now.. the shift units do need to be Di2/Shimano shifters with some kind of Di2 logic/pcb. The SW-R610 shifters the only one that will NOT work on its own. These are basically just switches and they only work when plugged into the dedicated sprint shifter port on rim brake brifters".
Thanks Terry
1st question...i've been using vittoria corsa speed 2.0 in 25 mm width since two years now day in day out...2 punctures in all (one in the dry one in the wet both sealed by stans race sealant and later fixed with a patch for peace of mind) and 4 tires used so far on a Colnago c60, dt swiss prc 35's and at 6 bars pressure (tubeless of course). LOve TT tires!!!
I don't know of frame failures on a turbo, but I know someone who snapped a crank (Dura-Ace) in the sprint for the line!
Ollie’s reaction to reading the portmanteau “brifters” edited out.
I'm just trying to figure out what's going on with the bike frame in the background. lol
It's facing down lol, with the fork under the chain stays
@@earlthomas7517 oh, that would make Sense, lol
It’s from the cheap gravel build videos.
I just love the mechanical feel.
i said that with mechanical gear box on cars... then i try dual clutch gearbox... Go back is impossible.
I have a mechanical groupset too.
The front trimming is annoying
the feeling of saving money XD
The "click" is so satisfying 😆
Mechanical gives you a few more optins to limp home with a fix "in the field" when needed. That said, most of my cycling group isn't that creative or mechanically inclined anyway. If you're going to call Uber anyway, you might as well get Di2.
I use water in the bottle and a pocket with dates and cashews. I keep it real simple, really affordable, all natural. Also, if you check many of the energy snack bars, many have dates and cashews as ingredients. Keeping them in a more natural state is healthier and cheaper.
Works for me, but as Ollie mentioned, ends up a very personal choice.
I don't see myself going back to Di2 any time soon i had a horrible experience with Di2 when it works it is heaven but when it does not it is hell and an expensive hell so NO thanks...
What were the worst problems? (I'm thinking about upgrading to Di2)
Energy bars with protein? Clif bars! Carbs, protein, a bit of fat, a bit of sugar, and even an electrolyte (sodium). Many different flavors and easily accessible through Amazon.
Di2 once you have tried it it's hard to go back
So true, the same to etap too
For me it's still easy to go back. Just make adjustments on your mindset only..
No one appreciates how much better it is until they use it. I won’t ever get a mechanical bike again
I bought my Van Nicholas Aquilo with Ultegra DI2 seven years ago and the gear shifting has always been impeccable. Okay, it doesn't get ridden on the Gloucestershire / Somerset lanes near me when they're full of winter mud and grit, but it just always works. I think it's such a great piece of engineering.
i went back... wasn't that hard
I guess there is a misunderstanding with the 105 5700 and Tiagra 4700 compatibility. They simply won't work together since the 4700 shifters have the same cable pull ratio of newer 5800 and 6800 series.
@MasJoko Your 5700 rear derailleur is compatible with older generation 4600 brifters.
Why the “cheap bike to super bike” is disarmed behind you? 😧
Word on the saddle, make sure the clamp fits correctly into the rail, If not the slightest bump will jump it off and become loose. Seen it happen...
Widest tire clearance I've seen on a road bike is 38 mm so you could put okay gravel tires on those. I suspect we'll see such tire clearances on more and more bikes.
Tire clearance is only a part of the story for gravel bikes. Head tube angle (so trail), chain stay length, BB drop...those are all things that will affect the handling. A couple of centimeter of chainstay lenght makes a massive difference. As does one degree less of head angle. In addition to this gravel bikes tend to be more relaxed than road bike in their fit, which normally means larger stack and shorter reach. For example bikes like the OPEN U.P. despite being absolutely fantastic to ride, do not really allow you to have as much fun off road as with a proper gravel bike, because it has clearance for large tires, but the geometry is a bit too aggressive for gravel. In my opinion 435mm of chainstays, 71° of head angle and around 74° seat tube angle (depending on your fit) is the sweet spot for a fun gravel bike that is not slow on the road as well
Mechanical all day long. Don't have to worry about charging it, ever and it just works.
Cable tension though 😝
The saddle issue: I had the same and fixed it by inserting a little washer between the parts which I cut from ~1mm thick PVC wrapping. HTH.
Go old-school with GORP (Good old raisins and peanuts) -- good combo of carbs, protein and fat. Hard to do better for long-ride fueling. Substitute whatever dried fruit and nuts you prefer. Dates and cashews is my fave.
Rick Snyder - My protein Flapjack is fantastic for riding. 300 cals, 20g protein, high carb and you can fit 3 easily in the smallest jersey pocket. About 60p each when on the 40% off sales.
mechanical is better overall di2 is like an osp, its kinda cool and maybe helps alil bit
Really enjoy the school days in GCN Tech, Hope that in near feature I would come up with some fun questions ;D
In reference to the saddle movement. I have a Bianchi Aria that came with an aluminum saddle mount that interfaced with the top of the carbon post. The two materials do not work well together with friction, my saddle kept tilting up and down. I had to order the newer version of the saddle mount which is all aluminum. The saddle clamp is the one that allows it to be reversed for the triathlon position. I hope this helps.
Rissotto balls with mungbean choco hempseed paste based on cocomilk. Throw some dates or vigs into the mix, add cinamon and your set. Throw in the fridge for at least a day.
So you would recommend buying the more expensive Ultegra Di2 over the lighter, better looking and more reliable Dura Ace?
Right?
I would.
It may be a bit of a luxury, but Di2 shifting is quicker, doesnt need adjusting after the intial set up, and never rubs no matter what gear I'm in. My old bike on the other hand, has mechanical and needs constant fettling to keep the gears happy. The front mech is an especially finicky piece of kit, but that may be due to the frame as much as anything else, but it wouldn't be an issue with electronic shifting. Also batteries only need charging every 2 - 3 months and with the wireless adaptor, my head unit tells me exactly when that is.
The only down side is the beep that tells me I've run out of gears and I'm going to struggle up the rest of the hill.
To the person whose saddle gets loose after a few miles: If your installation involves seat clamp 'ears', are you sure they are the right size? The channels cut into the inside of the ears are different sizes for different rails. I know of at least three different standards for saddle rail cross-sections - round, and two differently sized oval cross-sections.
A bit late, but regarding ST-4700 (Tiagra 10 speed) compatibility with 10-speed 105 RD-4700, the Shimano compatibility chart shows that 4700 levers are not compatible with other 10-speed levers (4600, 5700 or 6700). "The Internet" claims this is because, although they are 10 speed, they have the 11-speed cable pull ratio - the CS-4700 cassettes are interchangeable with other 10-speed systems, but the 4700 rear derailleur and levers must be used together
Electronic shifting all day long. Not one cyclist ever rode it and didn't say "wow". Precise and effortless, it is as you say Ollie, a genuine game changer. Personally, I prefer the SRAM over Shimano because of the simplicity (it's completely wireless) but hey whatever. The real problem with electronic shifting is that it needs to be factored into your N+1 problem. If like me you own more than one bike you will always be looking for reasons to have electronics on your winter bike because you really notice the step down.
It’s just the cost and charging that’s annoying. I lock my bike outside.
@@adamlynch9153 I hear ya but I run SRAM with my WAHOO BOLT and I charge all those suckers once a month (every payday is a trigger) and none of them is below 30% at that time. That’s 10-15 hours of on bike riding each and every week. Week in. Week out. Summer and Winter. Your mileage may vary but don’t for a minute buy into the falsehood that Shimano is pushing. I have used both and SRAM just wins in every category that you want to suggest. Tailwinds Bro.,
Don't agree that the only difference between Dura Aca and 105 mechanical groupsets is the weight. IMO the weight is the least important difference, the biggest improvement is in longevity. In my experience if you look at the groupsets after 2 or 3 years the performance difference is much greater - Dura Ace or Ultegra work better for longer and last without failing for much longer. Worth the extra, especially on gravel or CX.
My 2 year old Di2 Tarmac is in its second week at the shop as it keeps draining batteries overnight. My local shop has gone through various diagnostics with Shimano. Just calling Shimano has taken days each time and we’re no closer to solving the issue. So... no, I wouldn’t fit Di2 again. Anecdotally, Di2 feels wonderful when it works but when it failed it was catastrophic and resulted in "looks like you'll need to replace the entire $1200 group set that's no longer under warranty". I’ll be moving to SRAM on the next bike.
As far as I'm aware, 4700 use 11 speed pull ratio, that's why it wouldn't work with other 10 speed components.
And I've tried myself, 4700 rear derailleur does work with 11 speed bar end shifters on 11 speed cassette.
eventually more and more bikes will be equipped with electronic group set. I am looking for a new bike to replace a 2006 TCR which I have spent a lot of time upgrading the components myself. The difference of the bike I am planning to get is $1000 USD between Ultegra Di2 and mechanical, if replacing the set separately will definitely cost much more. So to me that’s worth going to Di2.
9:54 the difference will be the sound when you shift gears
For those that need protein on long rides, try this homemade gel: 50 grams (g) Maltodextrin, 25g peanut butter powder, 30g sugar, 2g salt, 5g dark cocoa powder, 7g instant coffee, 70g of hot water. Combine all dry ingredients. Whisk in the hot water. Pour into a gel flask. Won't spoil on ride, keep in refrig up to 10 days, very inexpensive
Co op in the UK do a cheap protein bar made with beets and dates, high carb and way lower fat than any other protein bar I have ever seen. Quite "real foody" and also dairy and egg free.
@Matthew Ho: Electric Shifting is THE BEST THING EVER! I'm on eTap and Love It Love It Love It, I reckon you'll have a similar experience with Shimano's system. Do The "2"!!! Cheers!
32mm max, Ollie? Do you not class stuff as the Domane as a road bike? 38mm clearance on that beast!
I agree that it's great to see the clearance on the Domane but it's still relatively rare. Most people's first thought when you say Trek road bike would be Emonda and/or Madone. Domane is arguably a gravel bike being marketed as a road bike.
Anything that has clearance for >32mm is a gravel bike, like the domane
@@galenkehler I don't think you've thought that through
@@nimblybimbly4002 What characteristics of a gravel bike does it have other than clearance? A Domane is as much a road bike as most bikes in any bike shop.
@@whatwelearned true, it should be >28mm thats wide enough for road riding, which is more aero focused
Depends on how much money you have to throw away. I'm using bikes with 9 and 10 speed cassettes. They work fine for me, 23 years in one case.
The new Trek Domane takes 38 milimiter tyres according to the manufacturer which means it can take 40 milimiters. My old Domane is recommended for maximum 32 milimiters and I have fitted 35 milimiters with no issues. In conclusion, a road bike can be used in gravel.
The Domane is definitely a semi road semi gravel bike. Especially in the new AL disc models
It’s always been possible to use a road bike on gravel.
This bike was really easy to assemble czcams.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA and required very few adjustments out of the box. The wheels did not require any truing/adjustments. The frame had some small scratches, but nothing major.I did replace the seat though - the seat it came with was very uncomfortable. The tires need to be re-inflated every 4-5 days, but this appears to be quite common for the narrow 700x25 tires.Overall, in my opinion, this bike looks and rides like a much more expensive bike.
Aha, now we know how Si keeps winning in the TT vs roadbikes challenge... he's motorpacing!!!
My nutrition method for long rides is to have protein and fat with a few carbs early in the morning and then survive on sugary drinks and water for the next few hours and then get more real food carbs if necessary. I could never get used to eating on the bike, only drinking.
I've read that 4700 and 5700 have different pull ratios as 4700 is based on 11 speed shifters minus 1 gear. 4600 Would work with 5700 though.
I also remember having read about that when new 10x Tiagra was released.
So in all cases: Look up compatibility before buying or replacing parts.
#askgcntech Could you check that again? Brifters are expensive so better safe than sorry.
an absolute newbie here, still rocking sora groupset with 600km mileage in. Gonna upgrade when i hit 2000km or 3000km mark 😂 who's still using Sora 9speed groupset?
I just got a new bike with ultegra mech. I used sora for 7000km+. Still using it for commuting.
I had Sora until I bent the FSA triple crankset and replaced the whole lot. I'd stick with Sora until it looks tired or you are suddenly good enough to be held back by having Sora. At least the new stuff doesn't have the stupid thumb shifter to downshift.
Claris 8 speed with downtube shifters 👍
I wouldn't just upgrade the groupset on a bike with Sora, its alot of money, £400 at best for tiagra 2x10. Then you may need new wheels. £250 and up. Sell your bike, take that money, guessing maybe £200-300 for the bike possibly less, that's £850 you have to spend, and that's only a small upgrade to tiagra, if you were thinking of 2x11 add another £200 that's £1050 at least budget for a new bike, say from a quick search of £1000 bikes a canyon endurance AL.
If you're using the new r3000 Sora - leave it on. You wouldn't benefit much from Tiagra - 1 gear more and a few more sizes of chainrings - and that's for a load of money!
I would put 105 or top end tektro calipers (or anything symmetrical dual pivot) and leave the rest intact.
If it's set up well, you can't tell the difference from Tiagra. I even dare to say the same for r2000 Claris which I've had for 3 years. Also, upgrading to 11s means new cassette body and stuff - it's easier and cheaper to sell the bike, trust me.
Di2 is hands down the logical choice if you can budget for it. I'd rather the peace of mind that my shifting is always going to be perfect for the small compromise of charging it once a week or so. If di2 was available in 105 I'd be all over if for my winter bike.
Noone has ever explained why the shifting performance is better with di2, it's just been stated. I assume it is because a downshift is pushed by the motor and not by the spring in the mech. Is it because it feels like a new cable?
Going di2 was the best thing I did cyclingwise...😁
Why?
@@carlosgarcialalicata reliable, no maintenance, perfect shifting, hydraulic brakes, customisable, fast, auto-adjustable 👍
Well, if money wasn't an issue you get electric. However, unless you are a pro (or a dentist...) money is an issue for all of us. I went electric last year because I got a sudden, one time influx of cash. Normally, I would do mech, but I decided to treat myself.
Good: pointing out the shimano compatibility docs.
Bad: ignoring what it says and stating that 4700 brifters are compatible with 5700. They aren't, at least not for the rear derailleur even though they're both 10 speed parts and the spacing is the same. The cable pull is not the same. 4600 brifters are compatible with 5700 rear derailleurs though, but have the old style external cable routing.
productinfo.shimano.com/#/com?cid=C-453&acid=C-454
Good luck on buying a di2 groupset with disc brakes for a reasonable price. Its pretty much unobtainium now.
the answer is always [105], i can barely remember to recharge my lights... imagine having a shifter battery die on a group ride: i've seen it happen "oof lol"
Tiagra 4700 has the same cable pull as 11 speed groupsets and is not compatible with other Shimano 10sp road groups like older 105, Ultegra etc.
Hang on: the 5700 shifter is not compatible with the 4700 rear derailleur.
The best option for the RD-4700 is (obviously) the 4700 shifter. Alternatively you can use a 5800 (yes, the 11 speed one) or any other Shimano road bike specific 11 speed shifters. However, these options are (almost always) more expensive.
Why?
Because the 4700 shifter has the same pulling ratio of 11 speed road shifters. And, no, the 4700 rear derailleur wouldn’t work with the 4600 shifter.
#AskGCNTech I ride 800-900 miles per month. How often should I service my bottom bracket? My headset? I have a newer, ceramic threaded bottom bracket. Is it just a matter of removing the bearings and cleaning out the cups?
Firstly, good on you for that mileage! It all depends so much on the headset/bottom bracket type and the weather, type of riding etc. You could add this to the question if you want a better answer from them. Personally, I'm not bothered about maximising efficiency so I just replace the bearings when I feel a bit of play or a 'roughness' which is caused by pitting. In terms of servicing, old bikes will have bearing cages which run directly in the cups, you'll need to replace the balls or the whole ball and cage assembly, after a while the cups will need replacing too. Then came sealed cartridge bottom brackets, which aren't serviceable and you would need to replace the whole thing, but they are sealed and last much longer. A modern bike (apart from budget models with a square taper bb and/or threaded headset) should have sealed bearings which can just be replaced. You'll need a bearing puller and press, and they just pop out of the cups and you press the new ones in.
@@lawrencesingleton2153 thank you
Mechanical for prize, maintenance cost and never be worried to recharge and works always
Nice job, Ollie! You have really grown nicely into your tech advice role on GCN! Pat yourself on the back!👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
My long ride food = wholemeal tortilla, Peanut Butter and Banana. Take a couple of those. Will change your life.
Both my frames barely take 28mm width tires. Also, I had to re-tension the spokes to move the rim a few mm to one side because the sidewall was rubbing on the frame.
I bought a bike with grx mechanical. I'm slowly gathering the pieces to upgrade to grx di2. All the little wires are backordered.
Other than the price, I can’t see why people would ever want mechanical over electric
same reason some folks like older cars, you dont need lane assist or tire pressure monitoring to enjoy a drive. its much easier to troubleshoot a mechanical device than an electric one, i dont want a heart rate monitor and gps determining my most efficient gear and switching it for me, i know that not in the owners manual yet but sometimes a simple answer to changing gears is the right one for a given experience. ill stick to my friction shifters for awhile yet.
#AskGCNTech
Hi Ollie and Alex!
Just want to make it clear, there is a few comments that points out about the "briefters" word
I believe that MasJoko (the one who ask about Shimano 5700 10-speed shifter) is actually from Indonesia, and Indonesians quite unfamiliar with "STI lever" word. So there you go!
#askGCNTech - is there typically any difference in puncture protection among various sizes (23mm, 25mm, 28mm, etc) of the same tire (like a GP 5000)
You can run bigger tyres at lower pressure, which means they are less prone to puncture.
You guys need to explain how the UCI differentiates between what is and is not a cyclocorss bike.
Di2 all day. Especialy add u have shifting on the tops of the lever and drops if u ant them. U shift more of the time because of the ease of action.
If you put 650b wheels and tires on your road frame, you should be able to fit wider tires with knobs.
It’s a no brainer. If you’re in a market for a high end group set. You should opt for the electronic shifters. There’s no point getting the cable pull version when you’re spending that kind of money.
I'm pretty sure ollie cracked up when he said brifters cus the video was cut. 🤣
DA mech vs Ultegra Di2. Did Ollie initially say 105 mech?
I’d go dura ace mechanical - they may feel the same “out of the box” - after 10,000 miles the 105 will be worn out - the dura ace will outlast Ollie...
If you get di2 - remember that PC laptop, and windows, and updates, and $500 when you bend a derailleur...
You need a laptop to use di2?
@@adamlynch9153 not to use it. But if you want to change any settings - or troubleshoot a problem - then yes you will need a laptop running windows.
I think the new 12 speed stuff uses Bluetooth and a phone app - but the 10 speed di2 I worked on needed a laptop.
@@workshopninjathe1st yeah I mean mechanical is way less troublesome and I don’t need to be charging another thing
If you have an old school bike without internal cable routing, the answer is simple - mechanical groupset or Sram E-Tap
Yes.
Shamanth K S: Hoping you see this..
I own a Kestrel and had a similar problem where my seat would just randomly tilt back or forward every second or third ride. It turned out the seat clamp bolt was working its way loose over time. My remedy was blue loc-tite (the weakest one). The bolt no longer backs out and the seat hasn't dumped me off in over a year. I've had the bolt out several times for adjustments without difficulty or damage.
Woah I didn't know Aiden Pierce watched GCN. Hopefully while wearing his iconic cap!