This has been a pain in my butt! Learning more about our bandsaw millâŠ
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 22. 05. 2024
- #bandsawmill #bluecollar #logyard #lumber #familybusiness #woodmizer
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We talked to Woodmizer and they said that the blades shouldnât be snapping like that. After showing them some pictures of where the blades have been snapping, Iâll let you know what they say.
Em get you a leaf blower that will help blow off your machine. Yall need a stationary fuel tank to fill from.
On my regular horizontal bandsaw the blade will usually snap at the weld.
Hi, Excellent video. Woodmizer may have a solution for the small fuel and water tanks because they do ride on top by the engine.
It really sounds like they failed in the welding or annealing of the weld. Good that you talked to them. I'll bet they have a flawed batch of blades that you obtained. In any event, they should hear about it.
@@bio-techlarry9602 It's possible to add a sight glass to the tank, or I think you can buy a cap with a fuel gauge on it.
Red hair! The eyes, the eyes, the eyes!!!!!! WOW!â€
Yeah, those shocking eyes - Who gets the DNA credit ?
Supermodel/Lumber Sawyer! đ€©đ
Colored contacts??đł
Sheâs got âtiger eyesâ very rare and beautiful
Yea and you can tell she is about as stuck up as they get. Not worth it.
Keep a detailed logbook with as much detail as possible: Number of cuts between sharpenings; number of sharpenings; tension on each install; type of wood cut; ... anything you can think of. That is DATA. Then discussing the data with the manufacturer can help them help you.
If you're collecting data, type it straight into an organized computer spreadsheet. You never want to be forced transcribe it again.
xyz, that was the best advice you could give Emerald. Data is very important. I'm sure those gals can set up a spreadsheet. Will save money in the long run.
Try some aftermarket blades⊠sometimes the manufacturers cheap out and overcharge for â their â bladesâŠalso get an inexpensive 15 gallon fuel cell with a hand pump and keep #1 diesel in it. They are the handtruck type.
There are only solutions.
@@Dadwithallthecool Do you have any after market manufacturers you can recommend? thanks!
@@lumbercycle136 I donât. Check on the internet. I donât own a sawmill, I only worked with a friend who had a LT40 and he had someone make his blades.
Get a farm fuel tank with transfer pump & long hose w/nozzle that can be locked up . Check blade temp on occasion w/digital thermometer . PM : Surveillance .
I have to agree with a lot of the commentators the welds were not annealed properly, Years ago in the machine shop we welded the metal cutting blades ourselves, when they were not welded and annealed properly they would break every time. Joe Maine in Georgia makes Wood miser blades for many band saws including the LT 70 series. And as others said contact Wood Miser to inspect your saw in case there are other problems, although I do feel the problem is bad welds. Good Luck hope the problem is solved soon... John Toccoa GA
Despits setbacks i hope you have a great day and enjoy the rest of the holiday weekend.
Welds are brittle. They need to be tempered/drawn back after welding. The finished weld needs to be heated to a light orange color and left to cool to room temp before filing smooth. You probably know this.
May be a temper problem on the weld. Something to think about, if it's not tempered right it can't handle flexing as much
YOUR EYES ARE SO BEAUTIFUL THEY R THE PATH WAY TO YOUR SOUL
Hey Em,
Your eye's came on strong in the opening. Reminded me of "Village of the Damned", of 1956 vintage
Weâve sawn for a lot of years with a Wood-Mizer. The first thing you want to check is the blade tension. Make sure it is running high enough. These blades are designed with a very high breaking strength. Next, make sure your blades are not running against the back of the roller guides. They should be 1/16-1/8â off the roller guide even when cutting. It sounds like youâve got stress cracks. Could be a bad batch of blades but doubtful.
You saw mostly hemlock so blade cleaning/lube should not be an issue but if youâre into pine or fir with a lot more sap, youâll want to run your cleaning solution higher. We have the lube mizer which I canât recommend highly enough over a drip system. Also, mix Dawn dish washing detergent in with your water. Itâs incredible at cleaning pitch off the blades.
Itâs possible you may be crowding the blade too much but usually that will show up when you hit a knot with the blade diving into the cut.
Prayers to your customer, that's a painful injury.
Great incitful video, woodmizer needs to check this out.
God Bless folks.
Amazon has sight glass kits and fuel level caps to keep an eye on tank levels.
A sight glass would help them out and Gramps is sharp enough to install one. Talk nice to him and maybe heâll get on it. Lol
Put a clear sight tube that is connected to the tank to show the level of fuel inside.
This is exactly what I was going to suggest if no one beat me to it. An external sight gauge for the fuel tank.
Definitely this.
Sounds like something that could get broken easily with two tank setup. Scale would be nice and grandpa might be able to do a custom one that is easily read from far away.
I'm surprised if the manufacturer hasn't made a digital one for it though.. There seems to be a lot of electronics in the new mill, so it's strange that the fuel and water could just run out without warning.
What a beauty.đ
Emerald, you do so well, it will only get better. Much love
Suggestion 1: Buy a couple more 5 gal diesel cans and keep them half full. Suggestion 2: Plan to fuel at mid-day every day, with that half a can of fuel, which will be a lot easier to hoist up there.
Many years ago I worked in a high rise office building with a small parking lot Peter Folger parked his car there, he was a nice guy he drove a Mercedes Benz with a rabbit as the hood ornament.
Thanks for sharing đž
Oh and as for the fuel issues Iâd get a fuel cart or mount a transfer tank to a skid or pallet and get extension lines. If woodmizer says distance or height to draw fuel is an issue then just add an inline 12 volt chugger pump powered when the key is on. đđŒ
Just use a platform ladder. They have to get the water/lubricant up there as well.
@@scottsoperplatform ladder doesnât resolve frequent refueling due to lack of volume but I hear where youâre coming from, although a ladder like that would more than likely be in the way. Theyâll figure something out they always do!
@@Kwhopperfan I would expect that the mil burns one to one and a half gallons of fuel at full blast. (fuel tank looks to be five gallons) So they don't have to get up there all that often. The storage shed is right there so no problem to get the ladder and the extra fuel tank.
Some really good ideas. I think you need to make a list of priorities. Safety is always #1
1. Fuel and water replacement should be made easier. Pushing tanks over your head to empty is physically not safe. That needs to be changed.
2. Monitoring fluid levels is a necessary task. Ask Wood Mizer for advice.
3. Blade breakage can come from two different avenues.
The guides on the side and rear of the blade should be inspected for wear or damage. Check top and bottom guides.
4.Make a log of each bladeâs performance. Add notes as to how it functioned. After you have the data contact the blade manufacturer. Show them your written data of each blade. Ask them for recommendations.
If you can get a few blades from another company. Try them as a comparison. This is good so one manufacturer knows you are looking for better blades.
Teaching wood shop for 42 years. Iâve had two companies I wouldnât buy blades from again.
Have your data when talking to manufacturers.
Good luck
Ya'll are awesome! Thanks for the vid!
You are a smooth operator!
I love your passion for technical problem solving.
One of my favorite channels on YT!!
Those eyes
Mesmerizing for sure, đ
YES !!!!
Meg Fosterđ
@@jimini1976 Yes, Meg had the eyes as well đđđ
@@jimini1976 spot the boomerđ
there is hope for the future, thank God, keep up the good work
Ty
You girls are so smart and pretty. I know your parents are proud of you! đ
Thanks!
keep at it lumberjane
Your customer with the disk issue is just representative of those folks that do real work for a living. The good news and bad news is that if they can still function, there is no major problemâŠ.even if there is one. An example of this is a 75 yr old friend of mine knew I was going to Loweâs to pick up a load of 2x12s on the roof of my van. He said he was headed to the VA to see a doc about what he thought was a minor cough, and would stop by and help me. Help to him means doing more than his share of the work and afterwards he goes to the VA hospital. They put him in intensive care for a week with a serious pulmonary infection. Some of these folks wonât quit strenuous work until two weeks after they are pronounced deceased.
After the lumber and the phone call... They're watching you! Always watching!
Thanks for the wonderful information as always love smell freshly cut wood thanks so much
Great informative video
just checked it out.... love the shop
Em, My family used to have some friends that lived in Costa Rica, and they would send us roasted coffee beans. After drinking that coffee and going back to domestic brands was like drinking mud.
Instrumentation supply companies sell stick on, outside the tank, fluid level gauges that use sound to detect the level. This reads out on remote digital meter. Good Luck solving your issues.
God Bless from your Canadian Friend.
you gals are fantastic
Maybe the weld on the blades isn't getting properly annealed at the manufacturer?
I ran an industrial bandsaw in a machine shop 40yrs ago. It had a electric welding tool on the machine. Clamp em close..hit the switch.. buff smooth
Hi Lumber Capital Log Yard & it's is Randy and i like yours video is cool & Thanks Lumber Capital Log Yard & Friends Randy
Give the channel a thumbs up đđđđđđđđ
Thanks beautiful ladies
Your eyes are sparkling đ
Omg those eyes!!
"There has to be a bean for everybody" truest statement I've ever heard
Are we not all human beans?
So on my LT 40 water tank I cut a neat hole in the top for an ABS shower drain with the drain flange in the tank and a female adapter on top with a threaded cap . Cut two sides flat on the ABS flange to get it in the tank and install with the rubber gasket. No more lifting tank full of water.
when i fill the lt70 i leave the tank on top and lower the saw head to the deck and stand on a 6ft ladder to avoid sawdust. also i run at 80psi and rarely get failures.
The on line WoodMizer video says 80psi.
It's warm enough for daisy dukes , thank you sun.
The reason blades break on band saws its because of the bearings that guide the blade are bad just replace them and the baldes will last a long time .. It was happening to my metal band saw and I found a video on line that showed how to replace them and it worked .
Nice, was afraid you found a tick đ . Play and have fun đ
I have a hardwood mill gt34 Australian, I had a similar problem with blades breaking out side the log it was a brand new machine and it ended up being the band wheel bearings were faulty even though they felt good .
I also have to say love your channel , all the best from Australia đ
4:01 Wow! Those bicep veins are very noticeable!
WOW...those eyes Em.
I got the coffee !!!!!!
The sound of power
from the disel engine
as it is revved up high,
the big blade's teeth go out of sight
and cuts through the log
like a piece of pie
The sawdust piles up
and the logs go down,
as Emerald and Jade
keeps the big saw blade
spinning around.
Good job girls.
Yeah, Costa Rican!!!
Some days are just full of Back and Butt pain...other days are a pain in the Neck.âčïž
Time to hit the creek and cool it for a while...đ
Hard working woman and she is a red head to boot gorgeous â€đ
My first thought is the blades are not made right but the tensioner may have a problem as well. As for the diesel a transfer pump is the answer. Your grandpa can fix you up. Little problems add up to a big nuisance. You can get an aftermarket fuel guage. Keep in contact with woodmizer to see if others are having the same issues. Excellent job ladies thank you for sharing.đâ„ïžâ„ïž
I hope you are able to find the cause of the blades breaking soon. I mean let alone the down time and the expense of the blade those things are scary and dangerous.
I am happy to hear that Woodmizer has been notified and recognize a problem exists.
Have a great afternoon and an even better holiday weekend.đ
Get a small Transfer pump. You can sometimes find 12V ones for transfer from tank to tank. Try one of those pumps that install on a drill. Try less tension on the blade and slower feed.
Mark those blades and hours and return to supplier. Possibly a bad batch. Your Butt will be fine!
We had some not cut straight and binding in the log and that sucked!! It was an LT 70 Wide!
Back in my day of back injury and back pain we didn't have no stinkin cell phones to interrupt us when we were workin hard. Obviously his back was working when he got the call...Stop answering the phone! đ
I remember back in Vo-Tech school. we had to weld the blades for our steel band saw. Once you welded the blade you let it cool for a few seconds and then you had to bring it back up to just before cherry red to anneal the welded area. if you didn't do it properly it would be too brittle and it would break at the weld.
One of the possibilities of the band failure is from heat stress. The blade is moving a lot quicker then the old 40. If you have a chance have someone hold a heat gun on the blade to see what the temperature is of the blade as it exits the wood. One of the things I hate is dispensing gas with these new government required safety fuel cans. I bought a small battery operated fuel pump. It pumps 2.2 gals. per minute. Seeing the fuel tank on the new mill is on top of the machine. Your going to have problems getting fuel in it by using 5 gallon cans. With the fuel pump you can put the can in the loader bucket and use the pump to tranfer the fuel.
I put my diesel in a 55 gallon plastic barrel, and have a hand-pump on it, with a hose like at a gas station. Works well, but I don't know if there is a place to put it next to the sawmill that would be safe from getting hit by a log or something.
One just uses another WoodMizer fuel tank for that machine. One takes the empty can off and puts the full can on. not filling the tank while on top with a fuel can.
SuperđŻvideo
practice make perfect
I work with precious metals at work and use a bandsaw for cutting on one casting machine of ours. I have had times where I will go thru several blades back to back. All breaking at or near the weld. Then all is good for a long time. Since I made no adjustment to tension I always assumed we would occasionally get a few bad blades in an order of new blades. It is like the metal just has a bad spot around the welds probably from the heat from the welding process. One time the company bought a batch of blades discounted to a cheaper price from the same company we always order from and every one broke in a short time.
So cute đđ
Emerald your name fits your eyes,,,beautiful
Hi Emerald and Jade If you google why does diesel amount vary in use you will find everything from dirty components, soot deposits on injectors, storage, age, whether it has been treated with biocides. As for a gauge you could use a small short brass tube through a small hole in the lid then a skewer with a cork on the end through the tube, the brass tube keeps the skewer straight.
I would suggest you buy a float switch and a small low voltage pump to keep the diesel tanks at the top full from a tank under the mill, the pump should be able to run off the mills electrical system.
In the old days we would fuel and check the oil every day it's called maintenance
One can install a float gauge. Fuel pumps are cheap and easy. Check Harbor Freight.
That is the most natural monologue I have ever heard you do on camera. Honestly, sometimes I see you and Emerald a bit awkward talking to the camera. I'm sure the fact that you really know what you are talking about makes it so natural (and comfortable). Nice Job! (I even liked your commercial at the endđ€Ș)
Oh, and about the blade. I'm guessing that the blade goes much faster than before, thus creating more tension. Now the fact that the break is after the "cut" sounds like some kind of dampener misadjusted responsible for softening tension release when the blade exits. With no damping of the release it creates a whip like tension. Instead of cracking the whip, it's a failing of the weld.......(or its just bad welding....HA)
Oh you girls will know all about disc trouble eventually if you keep up this type of work. I'm only 36 and have two bad discs since my late 20's. But you get on with it. Old boy loading up his truck was probably just used to it by now haha!
Check the blade tracking sometimes the bolts loosen to check the drive side you need the engine off and the blade engaged with no tension then see if the drive side wobbles when you shake it
Damn well amazing video as always here, And damn that's crazy to hear they are just snapping off
Ethiopia and Kenya have the best coffee.
On the weld 50 50
12 volt transfer pump, set extra tank in wheel barrow
Weird stories.
Always cool.
Try a different blade supplier, If you are using water to lube the blade add sssome cheap detergent. As for the fuel. Put the full containers in the bucket of the loader and lift to the height you need and slide them on. It saves you lifting. Great vid as usual.
I finally figured out who Emerald reminds me of,,,,,,Younger Meg Foster đ€đđ€
Use an indelibly pen where the weld is on the blade you use. You can see if the weld brakes as the pen mark will be each side of the break. Good luck and keep safe.
You can install site glass kits on those diesel tanks. đ
Dear Scott, I think I understand that several blades have broken, and personally, I find that the log saw control is placed upside down, (which can also cause the blade to break) for the simple reason that Emerald does not see the precise moment when the cutting begins. Therefore, it enters the wood too quickly and gives a severe shock to the blade. Reversing the control station could only be beneficial and would increase accuracy, blade life and even working speed. I say this as an old man's advice, because you alone are the boss. I wish you an excellent continuation, and may God bless you all.
And for the fuel tank, keeping sawdust out of those tubes, get a couple of pieces of silicone tubeing that fits tight and put a plug in the other end and maybe a hose clamp or zip tie and your set to go easy peezy đđ
DIESEL TIPS AHEAD: I'm a part time woodworker so I find some of the stuff you run interesting. It is also nice to see a family working together, About your diesel - there are ways to add a fuel gauge to your tanks, and I think that would be a really good idea. I'm not looking at your setup, so I can't just give you a link to something and say "use this" but ask around and look on the net. You may have to improvise a little but it is doable. I'm surprised Woodmiser doesn't offer an option. Maybe just fabricate a simple sight glass. One thing you want to avoid is running a diesel out of fuel. If you end up with air in the fuel system you may get to learn a new skill - purging the lines. It isn't hard but it can be frustrating sometimes. Be careful if you do work on the engine because diesel fuel at pressure can be injected into your skin, and that is an injury that doesn't really heal. I wish you and your family nothing but success, and thanks for the videos.
The blade snapping problem is due to improperly annealed splice joint. When you join the blade together and send an electric current into it, it welds the metal together. When this happens the blade gets cherry red. You then let cool down. After it is cooled down you bring it back to a dull red for 5 to 10 seconds and let cool down (this is annealing). It sound like they are not annealing the blades properly ( joint is too brittal). I do not if this helps or not but I would run the tension at it normal recommended setting.đ
For the new blades before mounting them on the bandsaw, you may want to anneal the weld joint. To do that you'll need a propane torch. You heat the area of the weld joint until it turns a gun-blue color. Then immediately pour about a gallon of cold water on the heated area until it is cool to the touch. Normally you would drop an annealed metal part into a bucket of water or oil but you can't do that with a large bandsaw blade.
Used to make our own blades. After welding we had to anneal the welded area. If not they would snap at the weld.
The blade breakage is definitely due to the welding process. I used a butt welding machine in Starretts and if the blades were not aligned exactly the weld was weakened. I used to test the welded blades on a reciprocating machine to determine the quality of the weld.
A whole video with this stunning beauty really my dream woman can we have more videos like this love your eyes theyâre mesmerizing đđ
For your fuel situation, you should check out a thing called the âHandy fuel caddy.â Itâs a US built fuel caddy that looks like it holds about 20 gallons and has a gauge, a fill cap and a hand pump on it and you pull it around kinda like a big wheeled battery charger. I donât have one but I think Iâll either buy or build one. A plastic tank on something like that would be great for the water tank too.
EDIT: those are ridiculously expensive. Vevor makes one and itâs not exactly cheap either. Maybe a fuel tank from an old swather or something like that would do. Grandpa could probably weld one up for that matter too and you probably have an old pump around somewhere to put in it. I think a 2-wheeled dolly with a tank attached would do the job. Iâm going to build one instead.
The "Handy fuel caddy" that I found has a 30 gallon capacity. It may be well built but it comes with a high price. I think I would get a third WM fuel tank for the LT-70 and just keep it simple. The ladies can get the fuel up there just fine. I did see an ultrasonic gauge that might help but again I voted myself down in favor of simplicity and no cash spent.
Check the lot number on the blades to see if they came from the same manufacturer run. This could be a problem from the metal prep before welding. The blades are probably spot welded, and back in the day when I was a machinist we also found that the .metal the blades were manufactured from was often inconsistent. We solved the problem by brazing the blades instead of spot welding. If you did braze instead of spot weld you would have to setup the grinder for sharpening starting at the brazing joint each time you sharpened blades. That should not be a problem.
As for the diesel better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it and Grandpa was right the first place you should have looked was at the weld and you Irish girls are the prettiest đ€ đ
Em, I canât add any suggestions regarding your blade breaks. I did order some coffee, âA bean for each person!â, now thatâs funny! Have a nice weekend coming up!
if you have an hour meter you could keep track of that and get some of control on the fuel ,
also large logs take more horsepower than smaller logs that may be a difference in fuel consumption ,it's something to look at ,
watch the break if it's in the weld and still on the factory sharpen ,call them or send it back they should fix or replace it