Self-rescue from a crevasse using a Prusik & Garda hitch - Tutorial (17/18) | LAB ICE
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- čas přidán 2. 04. 2020
- The Münchhausen technique can be used for self-rescue out of a crevasse. You use the Prusik technique to climb up and then make your way over the lip of the crevasse using the pulley (Garda hitch). ► You can find all the tutorials and quizzes on crevasse rescue and more in the SAFETY ACADEMY LAB ICE: t1p.de/lab-ice-en
For this self-rescue method you will need two Prusik loops of 180-250cm, one HMS carabiner and two identical snap carabiners. The self-rescue has two phases: In phase 1, you climb little by little towards the lip of the crevasse using the Prusik technique. In phase 2, you switch to a self-pulley system to climb over the lip of the crevasse.
Rope clamps and other aids make self-rescue from a crevasse far, far easier. Fine a guide to self-rescue with rope clamps in the next video: • Self-rescue from a cre... - Sport
1:11 ok but can we talk about how gnarly that fall was?
Everyone who spends time in the mountains should learn this!
Thank you. Needed this refresher.
that was clear and a good example for pre-exercise. Just sent it to my/our students as such!
That was actually really smart and intelligent move !
Great work guys 👍🏼
Thank you! 🤙
Outstanding video.
Thank you for your feedback!
How oftern do you use garda hitch versus 2 prusik? I just learned this method.
Hi Andrei,
good to hear you learned something new through our video tutorials…the grada hitch and the self-pulley-system you just use if you´re selfrescuing out of a crevasse and just for the very last part of the procedure when it comes to surpass the edge of the crevasse. Almost always you will find your rope cut into the snow lip of the crevasse enabling you to pass with the normal double-prusik-methode. Then and just then you use the garda-hitch and the self-pulley system! For jugging up the free rope the method with the two prusiks is much more comfortable.
Best, your ORTOVOX team
What about if you don't have a rope?
Dear George Austers!
You always should be roped, whenever you’re entering a snow covered glacier. If you can not see the crevasses because of the snow, there always is a decent danger to fall into a crevasse. Crevasses can be quite deep (10 to 100m), so an unroped fall into a crevasse can cause your death or at least severe injuries. If you have been lucky and have survived unharmed, you´re still in a very bad position. You might be stuck 20m deep inside a crevasse, surrounded by vertical ice walls. Some superhuman might be able to climb these walls up without a rope and rescue themselves, but 99,9% are not. So hopefully you have a partner or some other mountaineers with an rope outside the crevasse, who can provide you rescue. Anyway falling into a crevasse without a rope is not an option! If you really want to know, what it takes to survive this, we highly recommend you Joe Simpson's famous book “Touching the void”.
Stay healthy, stay safe,
your ORTOVOX team