CLARIFICATION: Sometimes, when I make these vids, I know what I mean when I narrate, but what I actually communicate is confusing or incomplete. Jwhiser brought a few concerns to my attention (thanks!), so here’s some clarification: Feshwater ich and saltwater ich are specific organisms. What I am trying to communicate in the vid is that there are also many other organisms which cause white spots to form on our fish, so just because we see white spots on our fish and think "ich", we may not necessarily be dealing with the actual ichthyophthirius organism. Unless a vet has diagnosed that a fish is infected with ichthyophthirius, we could be treating for MANY different disease causing organisms. Here's a link to a vet talking about this issue: www.petliferadio.com/aquariumaniaep26.html Also, I am not trying to say that Pterophyllum scalare live in salt water, I am trying to communicate that fresh water fish evolved from salt water fish and because of this, like humans, their bodies are largely made up of salt water. Osmotic pressure makes it difficult for freshwater fish to retain the proper balance of salt in their bodies. We can help make that easier for them by adding salt to their water during times of stress so the fish can free up energy it would normally have to use for osmotic regulation and put that saved energy into dealing with their stress which, in this case, is stress caused by disease. Hope that makes things clearer. If there are any other parts of this vid which are confusing, please let me know.
They are nice, and will be even nicer soon. I can't wait until the angels are completely through quarantine and their fins are held nice and erect! Right now, their fins are ever so slightly clamped up, but they should be right as rain in another week or so.
I agree, that's not 'pure' ich. But for ich alone: PREVENTION: Maintain water temperature, at least, at 76 degrees unless the fish natively comes from cooler waters. Research shows that the lower the temperature for tropicals, the more vulnerable they are to ich. I maintain mine at 78 degrees and never had a problem. Isolate new fish. But lacking the extra tank to do that, examine all fish in the dealers tank for white spots and monitor your new fish 2X/daily for 10 days. TREATMENT: 1) Treat the whole tank. Ich will not only be present on the specific fish, but throughout the tank. 2) Remove carbon (if any) from the filter chain as it will remove medications. 3) Add an extra airstone to the tank as ich and a higher temperature will affect the fishes gills and respiration. 4) Increase temperature to 83/85 degrees - not higher as some have suggested as that will add unnecessary stress to already sick fishes. An increase in temperature will cause the parasites to leave the body of the fish in order to reproduce in the water. It is at that point that they can be killed by medicine. 5) Read the medication label closely to make sure the manufacturer specifies that it is safe for scaleless fish like loaches and some catfish. 6) Treat as directed - more is not better. It is the ich life cycle and the proper level of meds that will do the job - not extra meds or extra high temps. 7) Continue meds for a few days after the last white spots disappear. 8) Slowly decrease the temp back to 78 degrees and do 1/3rd water changes for the next few days. Go slow. Do not re-stress the fish. 8) Reintroduce carbon along with new filter floss to the filter system. 9) Test for high levels of ammonia/nitrites in case the medications affected your beneficial bacteria bed. Continue water changes until it is re-established.
They looked like they had ammonia burn on there fin's and was getting the starting of a fungle infection your med choice was spot on. Had a batch of fish come into the shop the same way the only difference our didn't have the clamped fin's.
Edgar, You might be right on the money there. There were also some protozoan reactions visible in person. I'm just glad the med combo worked! They are currently in a copper bath to eradicate any additional external critters, but are doing well and have a lot more pep then they did.
My method is Kordon Rid Ich Plus, 84°F temp., and Kordon Fish Protector. I may use aquarium salt if warranted. With this tried & true combo, I don’t loose fish. The above method was a 5yr long result of trial/error/success.
Hi Dan. When you add the salt and other meds for the ich treatment do you add these meds after each water change or leave the water until the ich is gone?
Morgan, I'm not much of a plant guy, so I don't know the details of which plants are sensitive to salt. I only keep a few tough plants to benefit the fish. The species are so hardy that the salt does not seem to harm them in the least. I'm sure that other species of plant might be hurt by the amount of salt I use, but mine are fine.
My angelfish eat their eggs some one told me to take away angelfish eggs from their parents can you tell me after how many times can I take away angelfish eggs from their parents.
Hello Abdul, Angelfish will often eat their eggs. Often, they only do so the first few spawns and then they begin to successfully raise fry. However, you can always remove the eggs. Commercial hatcheries do this as a matter of routine. You can remove the eggs as often as you want. It won't prevent them from spawning again.
Ich is not a general term for white spots on a fish! There are two species of ich, one which is Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, the freshwater form and Cryptocaryon irritans the saltwater form. One other thing as well, ich generally will not only present on the fins of the animals, as well as them being a small white spot being similar to a grain of salt. I say this because there are a lot of new people joining the hobby everyday, and you having a good amount of followers I wouldn’t want misinformation to be spread from your channel being as I really enjoy watching myself. Another thing is the osmotic pressure in salt and freshwater is completely different and not all fish come from the sea, like your angels being from freshwater. Lastly, with angels being a monomorphic, not dimorphic, meaning the males and females look the same, so I was wondering how you’re sexing them? I know many people say by the head and some say the head in conjunction with the fins, however that has never been 100%! Great channel my friend and look forward to many more videos from your channel! Happy fish keeping and stay true to the hobby!
Howdy Jwhiser, I appreciate the concern. Sometimes, when I make these vids, I know what I mean when I narrate, but what I actually communicate is confusing or incomplete. I really appreciate your response because it lets me know I was not clear some important points of the vid. You are right...freshwater ich and saltwater ich are specific organisms. What I was trying to say is that there are also many other organisms which cause white spots to form on our fish, so just because we see white spots on our fish and think "ich", we may not necessarily be dealing with the actual ichthyophthirius organism. Unless a vet has diagnosed that a fish is infected with ichthyophthirius, we could be treating for MANY different disease causing organisms. Here's a link to a vet talking about this issue: www.petliferadio.com/aquariumaniaep26.html
Also, I was not trying to say that Pterophyllum scalare live in salt water, I was trying to say that fresh water fish evolved from salt water fish and because of this, like humans, their body is largely made up of salt water. Osmotic pressure makes it difficult for freshwater fish to retain the proper balance of salt in their bodies. We can help make that easier for them by adding salt to their water during times of stress so the fish can free up energy it would normally have to use for osmotic regulation and put that saved energy into dealing with their stress which, in this case, is stress caused by disease.
I can tell some of the fish in that tank are female because they are full of eggs. Sexing angelfish is not an exact science...until a pair spawns and produces fertile eggs, I would never sell them as a proven pair. But, after lots of experience with them, I can sometimes tell the sex of a few in each group with pretty good accuracy.
Now this is why I love this hobby and the passionate ones in it so very much, bro! To be able to have a conversation like this where we’re both learning is simply put magnificent. On that, in my research and trials I’ve found adding salt to be more of a homeopathic remedy, but for all intensive purposes it works for many people just the same. Thanks so much for the intelligence and response my friend, again, I look forward to many more videos from your channel! Keep up the great work brother!!!
Hopefully the fish don't turn to soup at those temps. Some like it up there but I imagine it could be quite high for most. Thank goodness we have meds so we don't have to crank the temps up like that. BTW, do you happen to have a link to that ich vs. temp info? I'd love to see it if you happen to have it on hand.
@@DansFish czcams.com/video/wcSWYXAzKWE/video.html there are several options to check out also czcams.com/video/xn2EbgxDiZk/video.html , i go upto to 91 once its there back down to 89 then treat with chems salt ,water changes but i do have ich pretty much under control generally , its just mo that it takes 90 to kill it outright , i have taken a tank to 90 for 5 or 6 hours at an early stage and that was all it took on tha occ-tion
@@DansFish I learnt years ago that turning up the heaters and adding salt is typically all thats needed to treat ich. I usually turn the heater up to 30c and add salt at the first signs and its usually completely clear in a matter of days, but I never wait for an infestation which helps matters as its extremely easy to spot the first few white spots. I personally look at meds as a last resort.
CLARIFICATION: Sometimes, when I make these vids, I know what I mean when I narrate, but what I actually communicate is confusing or incomplete. Jwhiser brought a few concerns to my attention (thanks!), so here’s some clarification:
Feshwater ich and saltwater ich are specific organisms. What I am trying to communicate in the vid is that there are also many other organisms which cause white spots to form on our fish, so just because we see white spots on our fish and think "ich", we may not necessarily be dealing with the actual ichthyophthirius organism. Unless a vet has diagnosed that a fish is infected with ichthyophthirius, we could be treating for MANY different disease causing organisms. Here's a link to a vet talking about this issue: www.petliferadio.com/aquariumaniaep26.html
Also, I am not trying to say that Pterophyllum scalare live in salt water, I am trying to communicate that fresh water fish evolved from salt water fish and because of this, like humans, their bodies are largely made up of salt water. Osmotic pressure makes it difficult for freshwater fish to retain the proper balance of salt in their bodies. We can help make that easier for them by adding salt to their water during times of stress so the fish can free up energy it would normally have to use for osmotic regulation and put that saved energy into dealing with their stress which, in this case, is stress caused by disease.
Hope that makes things clearer. If there are any other parts of this vid which are confusing, please let me know.
Tomorrow (Wednesday) at 7pm Mountain Time.
Nice!
I love finding your older videos. Thank you for sharing Dan! - Little Bobby
Nice video on treating ich. Fantastic job Dan
I hope it helps folks who run into it. Sooo many meds are available for it that it can be confusing.
Great resource for newbies and oldies as well. Nice Angels. I'm safe there, I have four very large. Thanks Dan.
One day, I'm going to find a Rainbowfish Angel and see how safe you are! :)
Man I love those angels! Awesome job sharing critical information for people new to dealing with ich!
They are nice, and will be even nicer soon. I can't wait until the angels are completely through quarantine and their fins are held nice and erect! Right now, their fins are ever so slightly clamped up, but they should be right as rain in another week or so.
Nice coloring on them. They are looking good! Good size on them too!
They are pretty indeed. And I bet they will be stunning once I get them fully cleaned up...I can't wait to see them then!
I agree, that's not 'pure' ich. But for ich alone:
PREVENTION: Maintain water temperature, at least, at 76 degrees unless the fish natively comes from cooler waters. Research shows that the lower the temperature for tropicals, the more vulnerable they are to ich. I maintain mine at 78 degrees and never had a problem. Isolate new fish. But lacking the extra tank to do that, examine all fish in the dealers tank for white spots and monitor your new fish 2X/daily for 10 days. TREATMENT: 1) Treat the whole tank. Ich will not only be present on the specific fish, but throughout the tank. 2) Remove carbon (if any) from the filter chain as it will remove medications. 3) Add an extra airstone to the tank as ich and a higher temperature will affect the fishes gills and respiration. 4) Increase temperature to 83/85 degrees - not higher as some have suggested as that will add unnecessary stress to already sick fishes. An increase in temperature will cause the parasites to leave the body of the fish in order to reproduce in the water. It is at that point that they can be killed by medicine. 5) Read the medication label closely to make sure the manufacturer specifies that it is safe for scaleless fish like loaches and some catfish. 6) Treat as directed - more is not better. It is the ich life cycle and the proper level of meds that will do the job - not extra meds or extra high temps. 7) Continue meds for a few days after the last white spots disappear. 8) Slowly decrease the temp back to 78 degrees and do 1/3rd water changes for the next few days. Go slow. Do not re-stress the fish. 8) Reintroduce carbon along with new filter floss to the filter system. 9) Test for high levels of ammonia/nitrites in case the medications affected your beneficial bacteria bed. Continue water changes until it is re-established.
Yep, that sounds about right, Pal!
Very useful. Thanks for showing how you do it. You're awesome.
You got it...and thanks for the compliments!
They looked like they had ammonia burn on there fin's and was getting the starting of a fungle infection your med choice was spot on. Had a batch of fish come into the shop the same way the only difference our didn't have the clamped fin's.
Edgar, You might be right on the money there. There were also some protozoan reactions visible in person. I'm just glad the med combo worked! They are currently in a copper bath to eradicate any additional external critters, but are doing well and have a lot more pep then they did.
All of what you did is safe for your biological filter?
Great info once again!
Thanks again...glad you stopped by the channel!
My method is Kordon Rid Ich Plus, 84°F temp., and Kordon Fish Protector. I may use aquarium salt if warranted. With this tried & true combo, I don’t loose fish. The above method was a 5yr long result of trial/error/success.
Glad you found something that works for you consistently. Thanks for sharing!
@dansfish, how often are you re-dosing ich-x? The bottle states every 24 hours...Is that what you did here?
Hey Dan. For liquids to make things easier and quicker have you thought about putting pump dispenser tops on the bottles
Courtz, I have not, but that is a great idea. Do you know of any place to purchase pumps that dispense accurate amounts?
Do I have to remove the live plants before this treatment.
Hi Dan. When you add the salt and other meds for the ich treatment do you add these meds after each water change or leave the water until the ich is gone?
During an active ich infection, I usually do a 50% water change daily and replace the meds and the corresponding volume of salt with the fresh water.
Ha! I'm watching this on the same phone with the same case. Dan the Man, doesn't the salt kill the plants?
Morgan,
I'm not much of a plant guy, so I don't know the details of which plants are sensitive to salt. I only keep a few tough plants to benefit the fish. The species are so hardy that the salt does not seem to harm them in the least. I'm sure that other species of plant might be hurt by the amount of salt I use, but mine are fine.
I think you forgot to mention to take out carbon during this quarantine process. But good job great video
Your are right, I did not mention taking out carbon. As I don't use carbon, I don't have to take it out.
I think everything but salt and declorinator is snake oil. That's all I use.
Angels are my Achilles heel. ❤️
I hear ya!
After how many times can I take away angelfish eggs from parents?
Abdul, I don't understand the question. Could you rephrase it for me?
My angelfish eat their eggs some one told me to take away angelfish eggs from their parents can you tell me after how many times can I take away angelfish eggs from their parents.
Hello Abdul,
Angelfish will often eat their eggs. Often, they only do so the first few spawns and then they begin to successfully raise fry. However, you can always remove the eggs. Commercial hatcheries do this as a matter of routine. You can remove the eggs as often as you want. It won't prevent them from spawning again.
Ich is not a general term for white spots on a fish! There are two species of ich, one which is Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, the freshwater form and Cryptocaryon irritans the saltwater form. One other thing as well, ich generally will not only present on the fins of the animals, as well as them being a small white spot being similar to a grain of salt. I say this because there are a lot of new people joining the hobby everyday, and you having a good amount of followers I wouldn’t want misinformation to be spread from your channel being as I really enjoy watching myself. Another thing is the osmotic pressure in salt and freshwater is completely different and not all fish come from the sea, like your angels being from freshwater. Lastly, with angels being a monomorphic, not dimorphic, meaning the males and females look the same, so I was wondering how you’re sexing them? I know many people say by the head and some say the head in conjunction with the fins, however that has never been 100%! Great channel my friend and look forward to many more videos from your channel! Happy fish keeping and stay true to the hobby!
Howdy Jwhiser,
I appreciate the concern. Sometimes, when I make these vids, I know what I mean when I narrate, but what I actually communicate is confusing or incomplete. I really appreciate your response because it lets me know I was not clear some important points of the vid. You are right...freshwater ich and saltwater ich are specific organisms. What I was trying to say is that there are also many other organisms which cause white spots to form on our fish, so just because we see white spots on our fish and think "ich", we may not necessarily be dealing with the actual ichthyophthirius organism. Unless a vet has diagnosed that a fish is infected with ichthyophthirius, we could be treating for MANY different disease causing organisms. Here's a link to a vet talking about this issue: www.petliferadio.com/aquariumaniaep26.html
Also, I was not trying to say that Pterophyllum scalare live in salt water, I was trying to say that fresh water fish evolved from salt water fish and because of this, like humans, their body is largely made up of salt water. Osmotic pressure makes it difficult for freshwater fish to retain the proper balance of salt in their bodies. We can help make that easier for them by adding salt to their water during times of stress so the fish can free up energy it would normally have to use for osmotic regulation and put that saved energy into dealing with their stress which, in this case, is stress caused by disease.
I can tell some of the fish in that tank are female because they are full of eggs. Sexing angelfish is not an exact science...until a pair spawns and produces fertile eggs, I would never sell them as a proven pair. But, after lots of experience with them, I can sometimes tell the sex of a few in each group with pretty good accuracy.
Now this is why I love this hobby and the passionate ones in it so very much, bro! To be able to have a conversation like this where we’re both learning is simply put magnificent. On that, in my research and trials I’ve found adding salt to be more of a homeopathic remedy, but for all intensive purposes it works for many people just the same. Thanks so much for the intelligence and response my friend, again, I look forward to many more videos from your channel! Keep up the great work brother!!!
:)
Ich dies @91f plus so u gotta go up quite high
Hopefully the fish don't turn to soup at those temps. Some like it up there but I imagine it could be quite high for most. Thank goodness we have meds so we don't have to crank the temps up like that.
BTW, do you happen to have a link to that ich vs. temp info? I'd love to see it if you happen to have it on hand.
@@DansFish czcams.com/video/wcSWYXAzKWE/video.html there are several options to check out also czcams.com/video/xn2EbgxDiZk/video.html , i go upto to 91 once its there back down to 89 then treat with chems salt ,water changes but i do have ich pretty much under control generally , its just mo that it takes 90 to kill it outright , i have taken a tank to 90 for 5 or 6 hours at an early stage and that was all it took on tha occ-tion
Thanks Lee! I've been following the Fish Doctor for some time now, but I had forgotten about that vid.
@@DansFish I learnt years ago that turning up the heaters and adding salt is typically all thats needed to treat ich.
I usually turn the heater up to 30c and add salt at the first signs and its usually completely clear in a matter of days, but I never wait for an infestation which helps matters as its extremely easy to spot the first few white spots. I personally look at meds as a last resort.
Hi
Hello Again.