1990 Dodge D250 Headlight Switch Replacement
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- čas přidán 28. 12. 2018
- Replacing the headlight switch including taking dash apart - headlight switches are similar in a lot of makes and models of older vehicles so might apply to your situation. This is for the old push pull knob type switches.
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
thank you for taking the time to make a video!! yew!
For what it's worth: I was unable to get the knob to release from the switch until I first pulled the knob as far out as it would go and then pushed up on the spring loaded button on the bottom of the switch. At the point, the knob came out easily. Initially I started with the knob all the way in and tried to pull the knob out while holding the button in. The knob refused to release when I did it this way. This is the second time I have replaced the headlight switch on this truck and I recall having a similar problem with the original one.
I just did it to get the dash out what I found helped was to turn the knob while pushing the release button - seemed to get the detent to release easier
if you undo the four screws under the steering column you have a bit more room to work with which makes it easier to push the button on the headlight switch to release the pull out switch
Hi Scott -
Hmmm your truck must be different than mine - the switch is about 10" away from the steering column so nothing from the column in the way. Main obstacles are the park brake and hood release. My truck has the tilt column which might make it different.
I didn't have any trouble reaching up to get to the release and I have big mitts. I came up from the right hand side - pressed it and out the rod came. Helps if you take the wiring harness off first.
So if your truck has the switch blocked by the steering column - go for the bolts! Otherwise just wiggle you hand up to it.
Cheers,
Cameron
@@camcando127 I have a 89 D350 and if you take the four screws out from under the steering column you can work your right arm easier to the switch rather then dealing with the brake release with both arms makes it easier to start that nut as well since you have a better hold on the switch and harness
So i have a 1993 similar my low beams dont work but every other light does would it be the same issue or if my lights dont blink does that just mean both bulbs r out? On low
Sorry just saw your comment - check the video for the dimmer switch - if you don't have power at the dimmer connection (the left one above the 2 side by each ones) when the lights are on it is most likely the switch. If you jumper the hot side of the dimmer connecter to the low beam side (left one of the side by each IIRC) then it is something downstream (bulbs, cabling, porcupine or rat eating cables etc.) - I am hoping you got it fixed already but if not for anyone else having the issue.
How do you replace the dimmer switch in a 1990 Dodge 3/4 d250 with cruise control and the trun single
Hi John - I haven't had to replace the dimmer yet - yours is the same as mine up on the column. I have tilt but they are the same.
From what I recall to get to the switch you need to pull the steering wheel and lock plate. To pull the steering wheel - pull the plastic cover off (carefully the plastic gets a bit brittle) - mark the steering wheel and shaft with a sharpie so you know where to get it back on. Pull the nut and then the wheel - you may need a puller.
Under that is the lock plate - it is held up by a spring - you have to compress the spring to get the circlip off that holds it on - I made a U shaped one out of bar stock but you can buy/rent them.
Once the spring is compressed pull the circlip (carefull it doesn't launch - they are hard to find lol) - the plate comes off and you will see the switch assembly.
Good idea to disconnect the battery and have some cuss words handy when trying to the circlip back on - you have to use the compressor tool again.
Here is a video of what it looks like inside the steering column: czcams.com/video/0lFKcnK63to/video.html
Hope this helps to get your truck going.
Interesting fact - Saginaw a division of GM made most of the steering columns for both Dodge and Ford so some of the parts are close to being the same if not the same.
@@camcando127 thanks what about cruise control dose that come with the switch
@@johnfoertsch689 Hi John - from what I can see from the parts diagram the cruise control switches are built into the stalk- the dimmer switch and the turn signal switches are seperate and at the base of the stalk (up down turn signal, in out dimmer). So you need to get the dimmer switch module not the stalk.
Cheers,
Cameron
@@camcando127 thanks
appreciate the video but im trying to get money out but mines an 89 w150 and a little different. I undid the slotted nut but I still can't get mine out for some reason and of course it's such a tight area, I'm still trying though
trying to get *my switch out. sorry can't spell
Hi Kenneth - should be pretty much the same switch - Dodge didn't change too much year to year on these trucks. Did you remove the wiring harness? That will get you a bit more wiggle room. Also the threads can hang up on the trim and after 30 years they can sort of rust into place - if you can grab the switch under the dash and pull as you wiggle it some times they come loose. Don't go nuts on it with a hammer even if it is tempting as that will just make it worse. Worse case disconnect the battery and try prying under the dash to see where it is sticking.
Hope this helps,
Cameron
My headlight switch seems to be working correctly, but in order to get the dash lights to come on, I have to put the headlight knob in between clicks. It does this same thing with a new headlight switch as well.
Hi Steel Shooter - Check to make sure the knob shaft is full in - they can stick a bit - the little push button should pop in (if you pull on the knob it won't come out) - try putting it in again - if the shaft is not fully locked the lights will be out of sequence so might explain why the dash lights come on between clicks. You didn't mention but do the headlights come on?If that is not it you can check the voltage coming out at the connector (you can stick a probe rom a multimeter in the backside) - I don't have a wiring diagram handy - but you should be able to google it - see if you get anything out of the connector to the dash lights - turn the knob back and forth to see if the voltage changes. If it does then the problem is maybe the connector or something else. Hard to trouble shoot over the internet.
@@camcando127 Thank you for the response, I did get it fixed it was believe it or not, but a blown fuse for the ext lighting. I don't understand how or why, but that seemed to have fixed the issue. Thanks for the help again.
@@pontiacmaniac2 No prob - glad you got it - electricity can be a funny thing - if the angry bits can't go one way they will find another :)
Steel Shooter what was it again? i have this problem
@@route67slidin Hi Seth - he indicated it was a fuse for the exterior lighting
I have a problem my 1992 firs gen headlights doesn’t work. They just flash and go off. I already replaced the fuses but still the same
Hi Nyno -
Hard to tell without seeing it but if the fuse keeps blowing it is probably a short - shorts can be hard to track down.
If the fuse stays good it could be a relay (My truck has one but is Canadian with day time running lights). The relay should be some place in the engine compartment if there is one - have a google for it.
Sometime the switch can fail under load too - try disconnecting one headlight and see if it stays on longer. Prior to replacing mine if I hit the high beams the lights would go out on the low beam side - makes for interesting driving.
Both the relay and the switch are cheap and easy to get to so if you are handy you should be able to replace them. If it works good - you saved some bucks on a mechanic - if not well the mechanic probably would have replaced them as part of troubleshooting.
@@camcando127 thaks man I’ll do that
@@camcando127 thanks man I’ll check it
Was wondering a part number on this? Struggling to find one
Hi Dustyn - They are pretty common - surprised you are having trouble finding one - just looked it up on Rock Auto - part # is STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS DS357 - they seem to have stock.
They also list the following alternative part Numbers - Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 19021043, 1972529, 1972670, 3746821, 3746862, 3747189, 3747216, 3747218, 3747821, 3747862, 4221223, 4221224, 4221225, 4221226, 4221248, 4221257, 4221398, 4221400, 4221403, 4221405, 4373134, 4373506, 4373751, 4565320, 5209921, 5269478, 56009869AA, 56009869AB, 56021898AA, 56021898AB, 89057017, C1507, C1509, C1522, DS877, SWC1556
That should get your local parts counter guy something to go on.
Cheers,
Cameron
ps. Or order online from Rock Auto - even works to Canada from my experience.
theres literally zero wiring harness to work with and mine has no small plug on the switch
You missed the toughest part of the job!!! Removing the switch.
Sorry the third arm transplant didn't work out for me so I wasn't able to hold the camera and do the work during the switch removal - pretty simple to get the switch out though - pull towards the firewall and down.
ps. You would have loved my Dad's '65 VW van - we had it from '68 to the early 90's - Dad was a VW mechanic (VW trained) for many years - He sold the van for 3 times what he paid for it
Respectfully 🔧👨🔧🙈🙈🙈🔮🍀✅
Taking from the emoji's you got yours replaced - at least hoping that is what they meant - :)