Hobby Cheating 82 - How to Use Oil Paints on Miniatures
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- čas přidán 28. 04. 2017
- In this tutorial, I take you through using Oil Paints on miniatures. They are a great paint that performs very differently from traditional acrylics, but can achieve some awesome effects and ultra smooth blends. Hope you enjoy!
Twitter: @warhammerweekly
Vince's RPG Podcast: itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/u...
Figure Mentors Article on Oil Paints: figurementors.com/the-science-... - Hry
It's funny how things go full circle. Now I don't know how old you are, but I remember starting miniature painting at a time when good water based acrylics just weren't available for hobbyists, and we all relied on oil based enamels and lacquers to paint up our Grenadiers and Ral Parthas. When the first good acrylics came out in about the mid 1980's, it was revolutionary. "No more harsh solvents!" we said. "No more waiting forever to dry!" we said. "Finally, a white that you don't need 50 million coats to apply!" we said. When I got my first Polly S paints, what used to be hard, for me, became really simple.
But as I get more advanced, there came a point when the things that make acrylics so easy become the things that make acrylics a pain. It's interesting that more and more figure painters I see, some of whom are young enough to never have known a time without good acrylics, are going to oils to produce the sort of results they want without having to deal with acrylics. "No more having to worry about tidal pools and ripping up half dried layers!" they say. "No more having to measure out retarders, flow improvers, and keeping mold out of my wet palate!" they say. "Finally, a white that doesn't get all chalky and chunky when I want to thin it down!" they say. When they get their first oil based paints, what used to be hard, for them, became really simple.
Right now, I'm heavily invested in acrylics, probably enough to last me a few years. But I see myself making the transition back to oil based media after these paints get used up or dried out, because I've developed the techniques and mastered the patience enough to use oils to their fullest potential. I didn't have that in 1986.
Yeah, honestly I end up using both, usually on the same projects and find they play better with each other than most people think. When you play to each of their strengths, it really gives you a powerful tool kit.
Not really a full cycle - these are not enamel oils, and back then painting oils required harsh solvents. These days people tend to use really odorless solvents, or something 100% green altogether, and these paints are not enamel based.
Switching to oil paints on my minis changed my hobby experience. The joy is totally renewed and I feel like I'm 10 years old again.
TOtally agreed, it's a wonderful experience.
If you let them dry and come back to them, you can do some cool textures with them. I changed my mindset to looking at a mini like a canvas rather than painting step by step
I'm intimidated by NMM especially on large flat surfaces, I just added this technique to my painting arsenal, thank you Vince. I'm becoming a better painter because of you!
The goal is always to take that next step. This makes NMM on large flats much, much easier, that is for sure. My advice is to go back after it has dried and use classic acrylics to pick out your pure white hot spots and you are golden.
After painting a couple figures with ONLY oils (because of this video), I love it! It can get a bit messy with paint smearing when adjoining contrasting colors touch while painting but it's a dream to blend and shade...... The end results even to a novice oil painter can be pretty awesome!! The largest drawback, and reason I probably will not continue with oils is... You cannot touch your figure afterwards for months if not years!! The slightest touch with the hands or if something bumps up against them, and you have paint everywhere!! It simply doesn't dry! I am 1 month in and still the lightest touch will transfer wet oil paint...
Interesting, I will say that could be about thickness, for me, I give a deep base tone with acrylics, then use thinned oil paints with white spirits and a little liquin impasto, the oil paints are basically dry in a day, maybe 2 tops under those conditions. Then I just varnish over the top and everything is ready to keep going.
@@VinceVenturella You may be right. I used a bit of white spirits to flow better in areas. (I drained oil off using cardboard as a palette) but basically I just used straight oil over acrylic primer. Doesn't look "gloopy" or thick like cake icing... Just still very wet to the touch. I may try it again..
after seeing a big name in the scale model armor sector of the hobby suggest it (Michael Rinaldi), I tried using small pieces of regular old brown cardboard box as a palette... it works very well and helps to leach out a lot of the oil in the paint, allowing it to cure faster (you still get more than enough work time). He usually puts the palette in a small tupperware container when not in use and you can punch the paints and work them with a tool to wake them back up several days later on the palette. Also, a small piece of double sided tape on the back helps keep it in place while working.
Yep, I have done that some in the past, in the end, I didn't like it with that much linseed oil drawn own, it does greatly enhance the drying time, but I just liked how they worked better with the oil still largely in there.
@@VinceVenturella I'd wager having more hydration lends to better blending, where the application I was using uses a lot less material. If I get a chance to try blending like your example here I'll try using a less absorbent palette 😁
Im amazed at how easily the oil blended, at first i was like what the hell is he doing, just slapping paint on then the magic happened, i am most definitely will be trying this
Yep, it's like magic, you can just slap paint around and then go nuts. ;)
You probably dont care but if you're stoned like me during the covid times then you can stream pretty much all of the latest movies and series on instaflixxer. I've been binge watching with my girlfriend for the last weeks :)
@Nathan Crosby yup, I've been watching on InstaFlixxer for years myself =)
Really great vid. Love all the effects and techniques!
Thank you, much appreciated. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thank you for sharing mate- great video and you make it look easy. Never thought of using oil this way, mainly been using them for washes, filters etc. Keep it up- 😀👍
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
another awesome video! Thanks again Vince.
Thank you, happy to help as always.
I got some cheap oil paints a while ago, now I'm tempted to try them. If I enjoy half of what it seems like you've enjoyed doing this tutorial, it's going to be a very rewarding experience. :)
They are very fun to work with and very relaxing. The time constraint of your Acrylic paint is gone, so it's far more laid back.
Awesome video! You have convinced me! Picking up oils on the way home! Amazing content, thank you!
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
Brock McClung How did it work out?
Funny story (or at least I think so); I have some art background in that I draw and paint, no real training to speak of, but I know enough to suit me and I was doing that before I ever picked up a miniature. I took a break from miniature painting for a few years and when I came back I started reading and hearing about people use oil paints on miniatures (mostly as washes) and my immediate thought was; this is a terrible idea because linseed oil and white spirits are solvents and will dissolve acrylics. Needless to say people were omitting the explanation about varnishing (I'm guessing because they assumed anyone reading/listening would know) and when I found that out at least it all made sense then.
One thing I've never done - because admittedly I'm not that brave - is paint an entire miniature using oil paints. I fully understand and will attest to the fact that you can create some amazing masterpieces with them but I don't my own skill (or lack thereof) enough with them to try an entire miniature; my own uses are pretty much confined to oil washes and maybe the occasional fading/streaking for weathering effects (the amazingly smooth blending makes fades and streaks look almost shockingly realistic).
I am not sure I could do an entire miniature. I am working right now on something where I used oil paints extensively, but I still went to acrylics for a lot of fine detail. The oils are great on large flats and for blends and such, but the acrylic just has some very fine control (at least for me) that makes it essential for the total project.
Something I’m definitely going to try, thanks! 😎
Hope you enjoy, I love oils on miniatures.
Something a lot of people don't know but might be a point of interest. As crazy as it sounds, there are oil paints that clean up/thin with water. They don't have as big of a range as regular oil paints but they exist. I've got a set that I use for painting on canvas and plan on trying them on miniatures now that I've seen this video. Another cheap "pallet" is wax paper unless you're specifically trying to wick out some of the oil with the paper.
Interesting, I didn't know those existed, I will have to hunt them up and give them a try. I like paper because yes, I like to wick out some of the oil, but yes, I know some people use glossy paper (like magazine as well) to wick out less.
If you're in the USA you can probably find them at Hobby/craft stores. I got mine off of Amazon because I live out in the middle of nowhere. They're Winsor & Newton "Water Mixable Oil Color" if you can't find them anywhere else. I've never thinned them down like I will with minis but they may dry a little bit faster than normal oils. It won't be anything like acrylic paints, however. I've also heard you can put your minis in a slow cooker (crock pot) to speed up drying of oil painted figs. I've never had the guts to try that one. I do find that putting paintings under a ceiling fan or in air flow will help them dry a lot faster. A friend of mine had to hide his paintings away from a curious cat in a cabinet and they took 10x longer to dry. I'm going to invest in a cheap hair dryer like you and some others have mentioned, too. Great tip. Thanks for the great tutorials. I'm trying to up my mini painting and I'm learning a lot.
I also bought a set of water mixable oils after reading a Secret Weapon blog about using them. I'll try to post a link:
www.secretweaponminiatures.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=4
Now that is an awesome tutorial, love it.
Thanks for the share - that's amazing. Can't wait to try it!
I mostly only use oils for weathering armour, now I'm gonna try more of it.
You can use a hair dryer to help make the oil dry enough to varnish by the way!
Yep, the mini-hair dryer is a great tool all around. I tend to just let it cure for at least 48 hours and then give it a quick varnish to go back in with the acrylics, but I often have 2 projects going at once, so I just move to the other in the interim.
Glad to hear I gave you some ideas, thanks for watching and commenting! :)
What are the pros and cons of oils and acrylics? I see top quality artists solely using one or the other or even both. It seems to me, that oils can be more forgiving than acrylics though I could be wrong. I'm new to painting and have been constantly watching a range of videos on miniature painting on both acrylic and oil painting. It all feels a bit overwhelming deciding which direction I should go starting out on this hobby.
Thank you for creating these videos!
So if you're just starting out, I would stick to acrylics. They are going to be far more friendly to a new painter. OIls are fun, but they are something to explore later Get your sea legs under you and you can then continue experimenting. :)
Great video, as always - when I took up the hobby again (recently) I converted from a combo of enamels and oils to acrylics - might have to dip into my oils again. Quick question - what type of varnish do you use between oils and acrylics? Would it be spirit or water based? And as another complete aside - you always have your models really solidly mounted on various 'things' to enable you to securely hold them whilst painting - I've tried a few different methods, with varying degrees of success (failure). Any chance of a tutorial on the various methods you use? I've looked to see if you've already done one, but no luck. Many thanks.
So for my varnish, I use a 50/50 mix of Satin varnish from Vallejo and AK Interactive Ultra Matte varnish. I find that's the good mix of protection and matte finish. The idea of holders is a great idea for a video, I will add that to the list.
Resurrecting this video a few years later, but still great info! Have you ever tried using any of the W&N Liquin products to help speed up the drying time of oils??
I have, it's harder to use in the smaller ratios we utilize for miniatures, but it can work.
If you're looking for longevity, you absolutely can't use acrylics over oil. Oil doesn't dry, it cures. Even after the paint is touch-dry, it's still curing. Depending on the environment the piece is in and the thickness of the paint, it can take a year for oil paint to cure. This is why artist's wait a year before varnishing their oil painting.
I am really happy to see oil painting on miniatures, though! I thought I was going to have to bite the bullet and learn how to paint with acrylics, but looks like I can stick with my oils!
So that is very true for things like canvas, for the microscopic amounts on miniatures an set very quickly. :) - I've been painting with oils and acrylics for almost a decade and as long as they've cured (usually only about 48 hours in this quantity), you can generally varnish and acrylic over the top with no issue.
That all being said, oils are great, it really makes things so easy and stress free.
Hey Vince! About to dip my toe in isolation here.
How important is zenithal priming before oil painting? Same? More? Less?
I seem to remember James Wappel forgoing it on one of his projects.
Thanks again for everything you do.
It can matter more or less depending on how you use the oil paints and how thin they are (much like with any normal paint). The real key is you don't want to be over straight black, that is a nightmare (consider how often you see canvas artists start over a black canvas). Hope that helps.
Vince Venturella Haha. Good point. I guess it worked for Elvis, but that’s it. #blackvelvet
Hey Vince,
Ive had a small reservation before pulling the plug on ordering supplies to oil paint my minis.
The room i paint in is small, (around 2 x 2.2 metres with a single window and door.
Will it be safe long term painting with oils and odourless white spirit in this space do you think?
Thanks for all the great info you provide
If you have a window, you should be just fine. You do want some ventilation, but something like cracking the window, or having a fan in the room and I would think you would be fine, as you are using miniscule amounts of the white spirits.
@@VinceVenturella thank you
at 10:50, why did you get a little bit of mineral spirit on your brush before getting a lighter color from your palette to mix/ apply to your model? Also, you said that varnish is a must before applying another layer of paint. Is this necessary when going from oil to acrylic and vice versa?
Is it the equivalent of thinning your paints for oils that you always see for acrylics?
So that the paint would flow, normal oil paints out of the tube are too thick to paint straight on the mini.
In general, you want to varnish the oils before you put acrylics over the top. Neither are absolutely necessary, but I always tell people to do it as it helps seal in the paint job and keep you safe.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you for taking the time to reply to all my questions. You are the man!
So this inspired me to try oil painting minis. I love it for certain effects, although will mention I'm using the Windsor Newton Artisan line which is water mixable and magic. Don't know if you've ever come across it?
I am familiar with them, they are great for sure, sometime I want to do a review of them.
Vince Venturella I’d love to see the video produced you an absolute painting wizard, I really like your videos!
Hello Vince! First of all, thanks! Are the Winton line paints good enough to start working with oils on our minis? I'm still new to the hobby all-in-all but, as I do love blending wet on wet I feel tempted to try oils.
Have a great weekend!
Yep, perfectly fine to start. You'll want some artist grade eventually, but they are great for most stuff and washes.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks a lot! :)
EXCELLENT video! Thank you :D
You're very welcome! Always happy to help. :)
just watch the video im wondering if in order to get a good blend you need to use very little paint on your brush ?
Iknow the color never really dry and it blends with the other. also im wondering how thixk it gets in the end since your adding paint all the time?
Honestly not really, I have some later videos on oil painting and you will see the amount of paint I use, most of the blending is actually removing paint, so you don't really ever get a build up.
Here is one of my latest videos - czcams.com/video/-ha32I_iJPM/video.html
Which varnish should I use for this? I got spray cans, matte and glossy, do I need to get the one you can apply by airbrush or normal brush?
Any will work. :)
great video Vince. I've been hearing good things about Abeteilung 502oil paints, would you recommend them or something else? They seem to be reasonably priced
Just started using them and I like them, I know Marco uses them as well, so they pass the test for me.
@@VinceVenturella great! Will get some then. I'm looking forward to trying them to build better transitions with the longer drying time compared to acrylic
Hi Vince,
At first, I very wish you a happy and peaceful new year 2024, keep lucky and healthy!
But now questions to you.
1. I know your tutorials about cleaning brushes after use of acrylics, but I didn't found a video about cleaning oil brushes.
Could you maybe explain, how to clean brushes properly after using oil or enamel paints, what solvents you are able to use and how to despose it?
2. I know that there are a many people, who are thoughtlessly despose their "acrylic cleaning water" via the sink, respectively the drain, admitted me too. But, have you ever thought about, whether acrylic paint could be bad to the environment, because of microplastic and toxic pigments?
What would you recommand to despose "acrylic contaminated water" more environment friendly?
kind regards
Mark L.
1. Same process, but white spirits to get it out originally, then the same soap (masters brush cleaner and so on).
2. I haven't given it much thought, as long as we're talking acryllic paints, much worse things go into your drainage system most days. That being said, if you wanted another method, you could always just keep an old bucket out in the garage or similar and dump it, let the water itself evaporate and it would take a lifetime for the residue and other items to actually fill the bucket.
Bit late but does any varnish work? Bit concerned that white spirit would cut through it as well
In general, a gloss varnish is the best, but I think any brand is fine.
To do the details on her face... did you varnish her skin in the face area before applying acrylic details? Wouldn't you loose the satin finish?
Nope, in general, I just let the oil paints dry (so I left them for about 72 hours). The oil paint isn't completely dry, but it's dry enough at that point to put acrylic point over the top without causing any great trouble.
Just a head's up: it's inadvisible to paint acrylic over oil, even when quite dry. They're incompatible on the structural level and a gamble even when cured due to how slick they typically dry--the acrylic on top, or between layers will eventually flake off.
'Don't want you guys laying down some sweet deets & they just get rubbed off.
In laying down so many layers of varnish you must be using very thin coats. What are you using and how do you apply it?
I am, I generally use satin varnish through the airbrush, but each layer is thin. Honestly with some of my current projects, I'll do 8-12 layers of varnish in between painting all the layers of thin ink glazes. It really doesn't end up obscuring anything through the airbrush.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks so much for your response. So you're using an acrylic based water soluble varnish?
I am assuming you can go back the next day to bring out some more of the edge highlights with model paints
Yes, I would give it at least 2 days for the oils to more fully dry (they don't really fully set for weeks, but after about 48 hours they are good enough to work over). That is exactly what I do however (and did on the demon).
Thank you for your advice
You're welcome
Hi, do you know how to avoid brush strokes when using oil? It seems very hard to get rid of them… Love your video btw!!
The key is smoothing on the miniature, you need a crisp dry brush and working the paint.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you😊
Do you need to apply varnish to the oil paint before applying acrylic paint on top?
You don't need to, they don't interact at all. I generally do, just because I often varnish as I work through a paint job, even with acrylics in between larger steps.
"They're oil. Your skin is covered in oil!" Love it!
There you go. :)
around 12:32 i noticed you load your brush really really full of paint. What is the advantage of having soooo much paint on your brush?
at 17:38 you do it again. you come in for an edge highlight, yet your brush is loaded up to the ferule.
Ahh, very reasonable question, I wouldn't probably do the same thing now. It's ultimately because I really wasn't edge highlighting I was laying paint along the edge and getting it ready to then smooth out (as you see me do a little later). In the case of oil paints, you don't have to worry about the paint being in as much as the brush, as the oil spirits you wash the brush in will really wash it out and the brush is synthetic. I have another video on painting with oils coming this weekend that more reflects the way I use oils now, so I would watch and see how that compares.
If I was doing traditional edge highlights, I would still generally use acrylic paints.
@@VinceVenturella aaaaight ok!!!
one small detail... oil paint may dry even months. thats why you not supposed to varnish for at least 6 months! you can use drying mediums but even those might take more than a day. Im using W&N paints for years and they never dry over night. never.as a pallete use piece of glass. clipframe with gray paper under the glass.do not use white spirit at all. use only oils or mediums.for cleaning brushes you need linseed oil and after painting use cheap hard soap.for mixing use palette knife.
All good advice all the way through, and your point is well taken on dry time. Oils are generally dry enough after 48-72 hours you can put acrylic over the top if you are careful, but you are right, they take a very long time to really fully dry and set, especially if they have any level of thickness to them.
I will eventually do a follow up video on different oils, cleaning and other techniques, but I wanted to keep it very basic for people just starting with the medium.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Good to know, I am going to do a future vid on other oils and supporting techniques, but I have experiment more with everything first.
Covering oils with acrylic is also no no. acrylic as fast drying paint will dry before oil is fully dry and may crack. this is how crack paint works. this thing will happen if you use turp/ spirits for thinning another layers. it will dry faster, as acrylics and crack.
my favourite drying agent is Liquin. it will thin the paint to a nice consistency, wont dry too fast so wont goo while you paint like other alkyd mediums.
There's a huge difference between drying times on canvas to this sort of application. The super thin layers plus the use of mineral spirit in this ratio will drastically reduce the drying time. add to that the fact that the paint is pretty much uniform in its thickness since the surface is flat as opposed to a textured canvas and 24 hours seems very reasonable time before applying a light acrylic coat
Awesome tutorial, not something that I would have ever have thought of to be honest. What model is that by the way?
Raiden Lightning shadow forge pleasure deamon
Yep, the Ultraforge Pleasure Demon. Cool mini from that line.
I’m watching this, and I’m wondering: why wouldn’t you use oil paints for everything? They seem much more practical than acrylics. You can correct easily, push paint around, get gradients without layers or feathering... And the colors look amazing, no color shifting...
Well, there are several challenges with them. They blend like a dream, but you have to mix colors more, which can be challenging over something like an army. They also take long time to dry, which can be challenging for things like army painting. They are also more difficult to work with just as paints in that small scale because they are very thick natively.
Again, all of these things can certainly be overcome and there are many who do use them for miniatures (or as supplments with regular acrylics, which is how I often use them), but they are tricky. They don't have the simple straighforward nature of acrylics. :)
(They are also a fair bit more expensive depending on colors.)
Hi Vince. Your video has been tremendous help in getting me started with oils. So thank-you. I am however using Winston & Newton Alkyd oil paints which dry much faster than regular oils. They are dry in a day and cure over two to three days, to the point I can apply another oil wash over it. It certainly works well with the kits I’ve been working on.
Would you recommend this for smooth cloth finishes?
Absolutely, if you want to get really unbelievably smooth blends, oils are just a whole new world.
Probably a dumb question but do they allow this for competition painting?
Anything goes?
Oh certainly, the paint or application doesn't matter for a competition. It's just the outcome that matters. :)
@@VinceVenturella thanks for the info.
@@VinceVenturella why is oil less common? I think it looks better?!
@@Webgobo It's just a generally tougher medium to work with, but there are more videos on this subject coming soon.
Just a tip: you can add a bit of W&N Liquin to your paint for faster drying.
Yep, I mention that in a later video when I returned to this topic. :)
What colors would you suggest for doing NMM gold with oils? I got myself some Gold Ochre and Yellow Medium and tried to do a blend with those with the plan to do my extreme darks and lights with acrylics, but it turned out looking like crap. Might have been because I bought cheap, crappy oils, though.
My experiments with NMM Gold and oils have relied mainly on the Burnt Sienna and Violet I use here, and then white for the highlights. I use acrylics for the Ochre and then when it's all blended, seal again and use some yellow ink VERY thin as a filter.
Can you paint acrylic paints over oil paint?
Absolutely, they need to dry and if you're wanting to be really sure, you want to lay down a layer of varnish in between, but I do it all the time.
Late to the Oil Party but thanks for this video!
Thank you, happy to help as always an I have another interesting use for them coming up soon in a video. :)
Hey Vince - The varnish step... can it be acrylic varnish?
Yep, absolutely, just any acrylic varnish.
Do use any mediums to get a flat finish?
Just a final coat of Testors Dull Coat if it needs it, and that is after several days to make sure everything is as close to dry as possible.
When varnishing are rattle can varnishes ok?
Yep, I would recommend Testor's Dull cote if you're going to use a rattlecan.
Can you use watercolor paints?
So the answer is yes, but you want to be careful. 1) They are very matte and will stand out like crazy if everything else isn't matte. 2) They will reactivate with water like mad, so you need to apply, do your thing let it sit and then varnish. That layer of varnish needs to be pretty serious, but it will lock in the work below.
@@VinceVenturella thank you, it's more for weathering a large display model, do you think humidity could affect it if not varnished, I'm really kind of going for more that muted dulled look
Never worked with oil paints, isnt the issue with those never truly drying ?
Oh no, they take longer to dry, but they dry, especially in the micro amounts we are using.
How long do you have to wait to varnish?
I generally give it about 48 hours for a thinned oil wash and 3-4 days for true oil paint if applied with any mass, sometimes longer depending. It's still not really completely dry, but it's close enough for the most part that I haven't seen any ill-effect even after a few years on some pieces.
Vince Venturella ah. Thank you very much. I am really new to the hobby. These videos help me a lot. Thanks for the response.
if you or anyone is interested in oil painting or color mixing Draw Mix Paint is a really great channel
Awesome, good share, always interested in more hobby channels.
i think oil paint best use on a little bit bigger size than typical size
Yes, in general, it's nice when you have a large space to use it, but it can be used on any size once you have gotten the techniques down. James Wappel has a lot of videos on using oil paints on miniatures of all sizes.
has anyone used golden open acrylics to emulate this technique?
Yep, lots of the euro painters use something like that. They quickly lay down acrylic bases, then use heavy body acrylics in much the same way with their longer dry times to push paint around and blend on the miniature. I will have a video on that at some point in the future as well.
Vince Venturella neat thanks for the quick reply. However I really don't like the stress discovering your channel has put on my paint buying impulse control.
It's how I keep myself from buying more models, I buy more paint instead ;)
I did and didnt like it. some colours are very transparent and drying time may vary on thickness. happened few times when I thought its dry after a day, covered with another layer and layer beneath reactivated. mess...
same with Interactive Acrylics. you can reactivate those within 15 minutes with water or special liquid after days. same thing happened.
oh that makes sense. would you recommend it if used as a finishing step?
I'm starting to think warhammer tv is secretly using oils and thinner instead of water lol
I don't think anyone in the studio uses oils (I know you were being facetious), but I would love to see them utilize other mediums like that, it would be cool to show people what was possible.
Should we all go back to Testors? Maybe we had it all wrong all those years...
Testor's Dull Cote is good stuff. But I am actually all about AK Interactive Ultra-Matte Varnish right now. It's great. Now for Oil Paints, I will also use Vallejo Gloss Varnish before an oil paint, just to real seal it up.
Never wash your brush often in mineral spirits or "white" spirits. Better to wash in linseed oil and dry off with a towel.
That's not necessarily true, depending on the lean-ness, viscosity and dry time wanted for the pass/glaze.
@@jonathanb6911 it is for how often you wash your brush in the mineral spirits. This kills your brushes fast. Better to wash in linseed oil and press out with a rag then to vigorously and frequently wash the brushes in mineral spirits as you show here. It makes your brushes last longer if rinsed in linseed oil. Mineral spirits breaks down the paint so more material is left rather than the oil it is mixed with. A great technique is to make a linseed oil/mineral spirits 50/50 mix. This will lessen the impact of the solvent with a good drytime. But if you plan on doing that technique often, brush soap is mandatory for the longevity of your brushes with consistent solvent washing.
No, it isn't.
There's also no evidence to suggest spirits directly damaging brushes (of whichever material you're suggesting) moreso than other cleaning methods, solvent or not.
Misinformation can deter new painters and artists.
@@jonathanb6911 I was classically trained by two professors who studied classical techniques oversees in France. I have earned over 200 credits in Media and Fine Arts, and have been painting traditionally, and digitally for over 14 years. I would hope a content creator such as yourself would actually be able to provide your resources before claiming misinformation. But I will not subscribes to toxic creators such as yourself when someone comes along and gives help, free of charge. You can persue anything to your hearts content, but quality comes from experience and understanding. If you need a spring board, please read both Ralph Meyers book "The Artists Bible", and A.P. Laurie's "The Painters Methods and Materails". I think you will find reliability in those sources of the "misinformation" statement that you claim I am stating.
Artist MikeJay @jonathan Bradley is not a content creator. This is Vince’s channel.
Gee, if I was going into battle with a giant sword, I'm pretty sure my tits and thighs are the first thing I'd cover up with armor!
I'd like to suggest buying oil paints locally. They're easy to find; an office supply or independent art store will have them. Screw Amazon, do they really need more of your money? Your neighborhood store owner would appreciate your business and it's great to form a relationship!
It's a great point. :)
Fuck. I defo want to get into oils...
True. If you ever screw up a model with oil paint it means that you should never try to paint ever because you are the worst miniature painter in the whole galaxy!its impossible to screw up with oil paint!
It's a wonderful medium because it's so very forgiving for sure.
You have a lot of great tips and techniques, but can you find away to not move the model your painting around so much? It's kinda like you drank red bull before filming this. You are constantly shaking it or spinning it while you talk. Take this advice please, I want to see those blends closer up and here your words of wisdom. Like I'm judging your models, get me right in there with close up view as well.
It's something I'm certainly working harder on. This is fairly old, but hopefully now I am more steady, but it's always a challenge, I am a wiggle worm. :)
@@VinceVenturella Yeah, I'm going back through a lot of older vids on painting minis with oils. You have a lot of cool vids though, I like them overall.
this should be illegal
Because it's so effective?
@@VinceVenturella yeaaah