Exploring True Metallic Metal (TMM) - Colour Theory with Oil Paints 08
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- čas přidán 25. 06. 2024
- In this video we use Silver by Gamblin and some colour theory to make three distinct metals: bronze, silver, and gold.
The aluminium additives in the silver paint give our minis a metallic shine, allowing us to paint "true" metallics; a technique not exclusive to acrylic!
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Getting Started with Oil Paints
• Getting Started with O...
How to Make Metallic Oil Paints
• How to Make Metallic O...
0:00 Intro
0:56 Silver by Gamblin
5:10 Laying a Foundation
6:55 Wiping It All Away
7:21 Making Metals
9:59 Other Details
11:39 Reestablishing Shadows
13:14 Pin-Line Washes
14:25 Final Highlights - Jak na to + styl
It's just plain crazy that this channel, that these considered and carefully explained vids have only garnered 1k or so subscribers. The quality of information and explained technique, it's direct applicability to really practical, really fast and really effective mini painting demonstrated on the most popular minis of the day should have reached and excited tens of thousands of painters.
The sheer density of information means I have to watch the colour theory vids three or more times to absorb all that's taught.
These are pure painting gold. Black, white, red, yellow, these hold no more fear for me, bright and saturated, grim dark and deeply moody, I've followed along and tried them all. This stuff is full of answers to fundamental shadow, highlight and specular issues that make these colours a struggle.
I'm so lucky to have found them given the algorithm ignores them.
((you might notice this comment cut and pasted on all of these vids because it bears saying and I can't put it plainer.
Это очень полезное видео. Оно как бриллиант!!! Спасибо!!
Oil TMM!!!! What the what now!!!! Dude your channel is superb, consider me subbed. Keep up the fantastic work 👏👏👏👌💪👍👍👍
Thanks for all your tutorials
Quinacridone gold turns into a near exact 1 to 1 of retributor armor in Gamblin Silver mixes
This video makes the Stormcast Eternals motif look amazing.
Love the paint here
Exceptional. A relatively rare topic, so thank you very much for a great video!
Thank you this is great!
Note to self. Don't watch video in 360p as there is no visible reflection on palette.
Really appreciate the mixing experimentation prior to painting. It helps to understand the nature of each paint.
The foundation layer is the key, which seems the opposite of using acrylics, where washes over the metallic introduce the colour.
I reckon I need to build a tent or something for the palette cam, so it doesn't get so blown out by the lights.
You could go that way with oils; glazing over the silver once it's dried. It'd also preserve more of the shine since it'd be just a filter, but I admittedly haven't played with that method much.
@@mendedbrushstudio I think in the interests of simplicity, I'll follow what you have illustrated, rather than re-invent the wheel. So many options, so few miniatures.
I'd love to see a video that went more in detail about the overspill you talked about around 9:00. I think it would be great to see some videos on using fluorescent paints and object source lighting if you are interested in making videos about those subjects. Thank you again for such a great video! I was just wondering how I was going to paint my Stormcast. I had thought about just using acrylic metallic paint and then painting fairly thin translucent paint over that base layer, similar to how people do it with speedpaints over metallics. But this looks way more fun!
Thanks for the ideas! I was originally going to make this about glazing over metallics but got caught up with how versatile the Silver can be. I still may do one on it, as it's still a good technique and a nice gateway if you're trying oils out.
Is your Patreon not around anymore?
mannnn another killer video. keep up the good work, even if channel building is going slowly!
Haha it'll get there. Thanks as always for the support!
Thanks for inspiring me. I've purchased a starter set and am going to give oils a go. Cheers.
Awesome, welcome to oils! Have fun, and I hope you report back with how it goes.
Would you make a video of this method applied to the spearheads? I've had more success with trying this method on larger surfaces but not seeing good results on small blades
On smaller objects it can be harder to maximise contrast. You'll likely need to use a lighter touch and fewer strokes so that your layers aren't all blending together. You'll also want to focus on getting the right thinner:paint ratio to ensure that what little paint you're applying is adhering.
Thank you so much for all the help! I went out and got a cheap set of oils and thinners and just went to town on a mini today. I'm so excited to explore this new medium, I've been watching every video whenever I get a chance. I did have one big question. When it comes to skip and faces (more natural looking textures) how do you approach it? I have a space marine I'm testing stuff one but I also have some Warhammer demons that are all kinds of colors and I was hoping you would cover it sometime. Thank you for your time and I am so excited to try this out!!!
Fantastic! Glad you've given it a go and are having fun with it. I find organic shapes to be even easier in a lot of ways, as you can really lean into the blending and work in a lot of interesting hues. I'd like to do some videos on it soon, but for now:
If you're wanting distinct areas of colour that fade into each other, remember that the more you work the paint the more things will mix and potentially get muddy, so try and keep them apart, use dedicated brushes, then work on the parts where they meet separately.
For more subtle effects like blush or beard stubble: you can mix that colour into your flesh tone but I find it easier to use the model as a palette and touch the slightest amount of colour directly on, then use a blending brush to work it in. Try both and see which works better for you.
Varying your pre-glaze across the model can also lead to some interesting and subtle effects down the line, but also serve as a useful roadmap for future layers. You can really go to town on Tzeentch and Nurlge daemons with it in particular.
Gamblin Silver is the only metalic oil paint ive found that isn't horrendous. All the others have huge pigment size
It's why I started making my own, but making this video showed me how versatile the Silver can be. I'm keen to use it more.
Hey cool. There's another oil painter out there.
I got the williamsburg metallic six pack a few years ago and, while I liked the color selection there, I found the drying times to be atrocious. I'm talking over a month for it to be touch dry on my quick test models. That's with me cutting it with galkyd too. For my needs, that's just completely unusable.
From the looks of it, you're having no drying time problems with the gamblin stuff?
Edit just for clarity - I do regularly paint in oils so I'm meaning that the williamsburg stuff is taking too long to dry compared to other oils. I'm not expecting or wanting acrylic dry times here.
I've not used enough of the Williamsburg metallics to notice a difference but the Gamblin Silver does dry quickly compared to your typical oils, as it's pretty heavy on the alkyds. I'd still give it a couple of days, but it'll usually be one of the first to dry.
Can you suggest any alternatives to Gamblin? Gamblin is very expensive in my country unfortunately, and the cost for pigments is a little more than what I want to get quite yet. What about Daniel Smith or Winsor&Newton's silvers? Have you tested those?
I haven't used either, but the W&N looks closer to me. I find their Artists' grade comparable to Gamblin so I'd go with that.
Another great video! I had a question about oils and primer though. I've been trying out oils over the grey mr. Finishing surfacer . It's a little different to other acrylic primers in that it's enamel based. I wonder if that is why I have had trouble getting my oil paints to adhere to the surface very well. I can never get my oils as opaque as yours. I'm just using some standard winstor Newton oils so I don't think it's the oils. Anyway, do you have any ideas? I'd hate to change the primer but it's kind of looking inevitable.
Opacity is a property of the paint you're applying, so should be independent of the primer. That said the colour of the primer will have some influence over the way it looks, so if it's a darker grey or tinted blue then it could make a yellow pre-glaze look slightly green, for example. That will matter less, though, once you start putting additional layers on.
I haven't used that particular primer but I'd be surprised if it was the reason it's not adhering. Is it not going on at all or is it more that it's not leaving much of a stain when you wipe it away?
A lot of the W&N starter paints don't stain as well as their Artist's grade counterparts, but I find that the act of pre-glazing is more important than how much a colour stains, as it's just there to give your subsequent layers a boost. Some strong stainers like Indian Yellow or Egyptian Violet can actually be harder to work with, as they're so potent that they can easily overwhelm everything.
@@mendedbrushstudio The colour is a fairly neutral grey so shouldn't be too different. As you say the oils are the entry level ones so that must have an impact. When I go to wipe away the preglaze, it's like I'm going back to primer even when rubbing away very gently. Most of the paint remaining is only in the areas I can't reach. Generally I leave the glaze on for 10 minutes but maybe going on thicker with a longer wait time could help opacity?
@@MercStrider Definitely worth trying. I'd also try brushing a touch of white over once you've wiped it off, as that should give you a better sense of both what's left behind and what you can expect from it.
@@mendedbrushstudio Thanks I appreciate the help!
is there a way to give blues a golden highlight without just looking green? I ask because I have a memory of the water near sunset and the water was still blue, but the golden light catching the waves was very distinct and I've always thought that it would be a fantastic color scheme for minis if I could find out how to get it to work.
Aside from waiting for it to dry first, you could layer on your gold mix if you're careful. The trick is getting your thinner to paint ratio such that it'll cover in a single brushstroke, as the more you have work it the more it'll blend and turn green.
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