Hobby Cheating 179 - Shading True Metallic Metals Revisited
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- čas přidán 15. 03. 2019
- In this Hobby Cheating Tutorial, I take you through an alternate process of integrating matte paints directly into your painting process (in a loaded brush style) as a method of shading and adding color to true metallic metals. Hope you enjoy!
Twitter: @warhammerweekly
Instagram: VincentVenturella
Email: WarhammerWeeklyQuestions@gmail.com
Take a Class with Vince: ckstudios.bigcartel.com/?fbcl... - Hry
Revisiting this video as I'm about to start working on a maulferfiend. I love whenever you do a tmm video. One of the few people I see advocating it above nmm. And I know you don't take patrons/donations, however I think vallejo should think about sponsoring you, at least for their metallic line. I bought them because of how much you applaud them :) and I'm sure I'm not the only one lol
I know I am one of the biggest proponents of the VMeC, but that comes from a place that they have changed my painting so much for the better. :)
You deserve WAY more support! I love your vids. You make painting tutorials remotely fun...which is mostly impossible lol
Thank you sir, very much appreciated. :)
This video changed my painting life. Ty so much
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
Your video quality and sound have both improved over time. Thanks for making these videos! I really enjoy watching them.
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
Some great stuff in this video. Cannot wait to try it out. Thank you for all the time you put in to these.
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
Watching you paint and explaining your method is just amazing! The metal looks fantastic and it is a simple method. As a machine operator I can appreciate what this technique is accomplishing. Metal can take on areas of extreme shine where frequently handled and dark areas where it is rarely touched. The camera angle was really good and it works well when viewing the tutorial. Thanks for sharing your talent.
Thank you, happy to assist and glad the tutorial was helpful. :)
Thank you! You are so detailed in the process that it makes all of this feel so much less daunting. You are also, so far that i shave seen, reassured us that making mistakes are OK! It can be fixed! and you show us how to do that when the inevitable happens. We will mess up, but that is all part of it. you cannot learn if you never fail, so thank you again!
That’s the key - there is no such thing as mistakes when it comes to painting, just a chance to paint more. :)
The model looks better on the camera Vince. Can see the details easier now. Gonna need you to refilm all Hobby Cheating videos now please. ;P LOL
Yeah, we'll see, I mean I have to get content somewhere. ;)
nice vid dude! always love when you do metallics!
I do have a deep love for TMM. Always happy to help. :)
It's so impressive to see the weathering with green and blue tone in the latter part of the video. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you, always happy to share and help. :)
Hi Vince, greetings from t'other side of The Pond 👋
Yet another superb tutorial; I'm gradually working my way through them all - although I did 'cherry pick' this particular one!
I'm a historical minis painter (as oppsed to fantasy/scifi) and I'm about to start painting some Romano-British ('Arthurian') armoured elite warriors, some of whom are wearing copper/brass (?) Lorica Squamata/Plumata armour (that's scale armour to you & me 🤣), so this tutorial is exactly what I need for inspiration and ideas! 👍
Love all your videos and really appreciate the time, effort and passion that you put into each one; thanks to you (+ a couple of others on YT) my painting skills have improved immensely! 🎨🖌👌
Regards, Adz 😉
Thank you, and wonderful to hear that the techniques are just as useful over on the historical side of the hobby. :)
Thanks for the video, nice results and many interesting tips.
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
Excellent video! ... Think I'll be experimenting with this tomorrow :D
Awesome, happy to help as always.
This is what i have been looking for. Also, it might be a good idea to have a close up of the work somewhere.
Thank you, this video was amazing
So I do include a finished image at the end, were you looking for something closer than that?
Awesome! That's another video I asked for. Thanks a lot.
The focus of the camera niw works better.
Excellent, glad the new set-up is improved and always happy to help.
Useful as always
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
The new setup is a lot better. Everything was in focus through the entire video ;)
Excellent, happy to help and I'm always trying to improve the set-up. Still some things I want to improve, but it's much appreciated.
This is where my colorblindness (is it a word? XD) screw me up, i'll need a lot of time to learn those tones. Great technique and great video!
No issue, always happy to help and answer questions if you have some challenges.
Thanks! Yes, the mini was visible, even though it's so tough to capture the looks of true metallics.
Yeah, doing TMM on camera is always tough.
S.O.S. machine= telegraph. Another great video, I'm gonna try this out on some sisters of silence. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Yes, this is what I couldn't think of. ;)
@@VinceVenturella understandable, you were right in the middle of elucidating the masses on how to Morse code stipple paint. And hold a miniature in frame. And be witty and engrossing to the audience. That's a lot of spinning plates, and we appreciate ya.
Was going to try to hunt down videos on shading bronze, using nihilakh oxide and how to highlight true metallics. Three for one deal with this video. Thanks as always
Glad I could help!
Hopefully I’ll get to see this first hand at your class at Nova.
Yes indeed sir. :)
As someone who also vastly prefers TMM to NMM, this is something I have to try. I just was finishing up a figure with tons of armor last night and was left wondering "What else can I do with this to shade this..." and was left somewhat stumped as to how to do more with the TMM. New techniques to try!
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
Immediately noticed the improved focus! Thought you might have gotten a new camera
I did at some point, but honestly, it took me a while to figure it out (still learning to be fair) but i'm getting somewhere. :)
If you want good looking weapons really quick .
Vallejo Metal Color range
start with EXHAUST MANIFOLD 77.723 ,
than highlight with PALE BURNT METAL 77.704 ,
3th shade with GUNMETAL GREY 77.720
Play around with it and you wil see how realistic you can make it.
I like this, great stuff.
Awesome! I actually just bought the Vallejo gold, silver, and copper last night. One question: Would this technique work for painting a fade into the metal? For example, a ghostly sword that is more corporeal near the blade's tip.
Absolutely, you can certainly just slowly mix in the matte paint to do the transitions.
The camera work is perfect. I had a question (was saving it for Q&A) based on this video and the last time you use TMM with extras - are there any other colours that work with this method? Other than blue (steel), green, brown etc.
Honestly, as metals are reflective, and the fact that they easily weather, you can pretty much use any color you want. Especially when it comes into steel, which can pollute with any color you want.
I was wondering if you offered any like online coaching or had maybe a discord channel that you ran? I consider you to be the oracle of this hobby and the knowledge you have is just amazing! Keep up the good fight brother!
I don't right now unfortuantely, if I ever go full time in the future it would be mainly to do one on one online tutorials.
@@VinceVenturella that would be pretty cool. I like your style bro.. and have already learned tons from your free content here on CZcams.
great video Vince, when are the tickets for your UK seminars going up?
Should hopefully be this week. :)
Hi VIncent Excellent video as usual. Would you consider doing a tutorial on how to paint a lacquered effect on samurai armor using various colors, a la Legend of the Five Rings clan armor? thx Scott
Sure, I will add it to the list, I did it a little for my samurai bust, it's certainly interesting as a challenge.
Sorry to comment on such an old video, I'm a new subscriber and viewer of your Channel. First off, you're phenomenal! Secondly, I noticed at the end you mentioned you tour the states and do classes, are you still doing those? I'd love to attend a few in person classes to help get me out of my "beginner stage".
First, never feel bad about commenting on any video, I always answer every comment and I am very happy to have you along on the hobby journey. Covid put a damper on my in person teaching, but they will return in 2023 and I will be teaching at some conventions this year (but I believe most tickets are sold out for Gen-Con and NOVA).
I'm so happy that someone on your level likes TMM. I love TMM colors and never liked the look of NMM (though I can also accept how it is seen as an advanced showcase of skill)
I love TMM and you'll have some good videos coming on TMM in the next few weeks.
Vince, I don't know what you did (mainly because I forgot what you told us at the start of video) but that's a BIG game changer. This technique in particular looks like a lot of fun and I will be using it for Nagash :) I cannot wait to see what comes down the pipes (at the risk of sounding like a spoiled brat - hopefully maybe a few updates on key techniques you've already shown us) for your next vids! Also, speaking of Nagash, what purple did you use there? Is it Fantasy Games range?
I am sure I will always be revisiting previous items, never stop trying to improve I say. :) - That being said, it's Pro Acryl Purple as the main purple (with black leather as a shade and ivory as a highlight.)
Incidentally, that purple cloth is fantastic! Did you utilize your preshading technique? Did you use an ivory for the top preshade or just grey or white? It looks AMAZING!
Sure, it uses the preshading, but it also uses some wet blending (from the video with the green cloak from last week) and stippling (from the stippling video). The colors were Purple, Ivory, Mahogany and Black Leather.
Awesome as always. Would you mind posting some close-up shots from a few different angles in the Facebook PMP?
I will do so, they are for CB in the end, so I am trying to get some good photos. :)
@@VinceVenturella Sweet. Thanks :)
Hey Vince - I took your class at NOVA on this and love this technique. For a model that will be mostly metallics (Necrons/Stormcast), do you think it would make sense to start with your TMM zenithal technique and then go back in and refine the shading with this technique? Or do you think there is minimal time to be saved there?
I think if I was doing a necron, I would start with the zenithal and then refine, just seems to save time and set the overall volumes. :)
@@VinceVenturella I was thinking of starting with an all over coat of the bronze, anti-zenithal with some black or sepia ink, and then pale burnt metal for the highlight. Do you think that is a good starting point?
@@Danhattan Yep, sounds right.
Awesome, just what I needed right now. Do you thin your metallics at all? And if so, with what?
In general, no (because I use Vallejo Metal color and it doesn't need thinning. When I think that,I use a little water. For most metallics, I would recommend a little flow aid and or gloss or glaze medium.
@@VinceVenturella cool, thanks. How do the Model Color or Game Color Metallics compare to the VMA range in your opinion?
@@Passoutboy Nope, not even close. It's a completely different paint. I normally say whatever you want with paint is fine, but when it comes to metallics, there really isn't anything else (in acrylics) like Vallejo Metal Color. It's singularly different and amazing.
Do you find a transparent wash to be practical at any point in this process? Since the TMM becomes an effortless highlight it enables me to focus primarily on shadow. Fun!! 😁
Nope, washes just ruin metal by putting non-metallic medium and color over top (unless I am doing very rusty metal).
@@VinceVenturella Your right Vince. This one is tricky. I wanted to tint my armor a deeper purple and it cut down a lot of sheen. Gave it a galvanized look which I do like but I miss the original reflections. This is going to take some experiments with glazes. 🤔 Just getting the tone right to begin with I guess. Huge help. Thank you!
What do you think of using the gloss citadel shades such as nuln oil gloss, agrax gloss shade etc to shade metallics such as liquid gold, scale 75 metals, darkstar etc?
Honestly, I don't like it, but that is basically because I don't like washing metal, an all of wash, or more or less anything except an oil wash you can wash away, always is putting a non-metallic completely over a metallic and changing the shine. I want the shadows to be matte (usually) and I want the highlights to be pure metallic.
@@VinceVenturella what i usually do for metallics like liquid gold is to put the metallics on, slap on some gloss angrax and reikland gloss 50/50 mixed, then drybrush the same gold over it to restore the shininess. I do have or can use an airbrush so i am hand painting everything. I have had great looking candy red thousand sons for 30k by placing clear red above the previous gold paint jobs, after watching your various videos i have found a huge amount of new techniques i have to try, i own the metal color range myself for silvers and steel.
Vince. Focus from front to back looks MUCH better! Have you been playing with the aperture?
I have, I really don't know anything about cameras, so it's a lot of reading articles and then trying stuff out, but I think I got to a good place. :)
@@VinceVenturella you have indeed!
Hi Vince, can I ask if the metallics dry in-between layers, or are you always playing with wet paint in this technique?
You're working with them while wet while they last (which is a few minutes at *most*) but you want to then let it rest completely and dry.
@Vince Venturella lovely thank you for taking the time to reply 🤟
Can you do a video on where to highlight and shade metallic paint? Your method looks great but I have no idea why you put everything where you did.
I certainly can, but to be honest, I am not sure I could do it as well as it's already been done by Kujo Painting (he is doing it in terms of NMM, but the lessons and applications of shade and highlight are the same for obvious reasons). here is that video - czcams.com/video/Zux0HAS8pAw/video.html
Are you thinning any of these paints beyond just having a little water in the brush?
Nope, just a moist brush and then smoothing out.
Do you have a guide like this for rounded armor? I’m about to attempt my iron golems and I’d like to try this.
It's more or less the same technique, you just work the shadows around in the rounded surface, pushing the shadows and then working some reflected brighter colors on the lower part of the rounded area. Hope that helps (basically, alternate your colors around the model).
I wonder will you consider make a update HC on this technique , or redo it on some day. I love it, but i must confess , it very hard too see your brush work since the camera is quite a bit far from the model
I will see what I can do. :)
Just in time as usual MrVince, plan to go to sleep, but i guess, i can stay awake for 20 minute more, also, i never know anyone mention about this, but , can we use true metallic paint over a wetpallete ?
You can, but the metal particles may spread in it, so basically you want that to be done in a special part, away from the sides, and I'm assuming you're using a "throw-away" paper on it. (Not that I'd throw it right away, but after a few sessions I would). Also depends if you're transporting / storing that wet palette always horizontal, or you'll have extra water flowing and it may come "on top of" the paper, thus taking the risk of poluting your other colors with metallics. Personally, I don't mind. :-)
Yan is correct, but I would go farther. I don't ever put my metals on my wet palette, 1) because it can separate too easily and 2) it pollutes the wet palette really easily and gets metal flakes in everything.
I notice you are using a dry pallet for this technique, any particular reason to not use a wet pallet?
Metallic paints don't need to be diluted as much, and you shouldn't use the same water to dilute normal paints and metallic paints because metallic pigment flakes can get onto your brush while you're painting another color and mess it up. This applies to both normal pots and wet palettes.
Exactly what Paul said. I never put metallic paint on the wet palette, it should always stay separate to prevent pollution.
Camera still needs to be ALOT closer. Better yet, use 2 - one that shows your pallet and one that shows what you are painting.
Not related to this video, but Vince you have mentioned that you have an Instagram account. I'd like to follow you there for inspiration, but I can't find the account with either "Vince Venturella" or "Warhammer Weekly". Did you stop using it? I love your style and your videos are incredibly useful, I especially trust your product reviews and I'm slowly building a similar product "line". Thank you for all you do!
It's @VincentVenturella (it's up in the description as well. ;) ) - Thank you for the kind words and always happy to help. ;)
@@VinceVenturella Ah, Vincent it is. The description you say? Pfft, way too obvious! Found it, thank you very much. ::
Could you recommend a recipe for silver armor?
So my recipe is basically any black (usually an ink), payne's grey ink, steel, pale burnt metal and then sometimes a final glaze of a pop color if you want to.
You could name this technique "mess blending" ;p
I mean, you are not wrong. :)
@@VinceVenturella I like.
Love your vids so much ... But I find myself struggling hard to see what you're doing. I beg you, zoom that camera in.
Absolutely, if you look at the recent videos, I've very much taken that to heart.
The well known brand known as 'Artist...brush...' 😆
In terms of video quality - High magnification comes with low FOD so you might want to go to a high f/number. F/10 or so should be ok. That's been said the background gets sharp as well. The miniature is hard to see in the video because your background is distracting. The pattern of the cutting board, the many colours on the palette and the white of the dry palette. Maybe a grey, single colour cardboard / sheet of paper will help.
Thanks for the info! and totally get it on the background, that's why I switched to the flat grey, I was seeing the distraction in the visual from the mat.
I had hard time seeing model with new setup, just me? Seems too far
I'll see what I can do. :)
I like your vids but PLEASE DROP THE HORRIBLE MUSIC!!!!!!