6:30 I've restored a lot of tractors. Shit load of fasteners, and I media blast every one. Only way to protect fasteners is to coat them with a brush after installation. Well chrome does a pretty good job for a while, but I doubt that is what you are looking for. None of the plating processes are terribly effective, especially when a fastener needs decent torque on them.
Very cool video. I have a '46 WC... no rust from South Colorado!!! It is in primer waiting for me to retire in two years!!! You my friend are an inspiration!!!
11:53 Left rear brake application seemed slow. That does not necessarily mean that side needed to be bleed. Anything after the T in the line (after it splits and goes to both rear brakes) is the same pressure. Air anywhere in that section reduces the application pressure for both rear wheels. When they do not apply even it is almost always a mechanical issue. Usually either a shoe is tighter on one side or looser on the other side. Or a slave cylinder is not operating as smooth as its companion slave cylinder on the other side. Sometimes a line will be partially crimped on the "weak" side. Think of a dead headed fire hose connected to an open hydrant. The entire hose has the same pressure in it even if there is no water at the end. The air is compressed by the water until the air pressure equals that of the water pressure.
I've got a 59 f-100 ambulance that was retired out of the navy I've been restoring for the last year or so your vids give me hope that I'll get mine on the road again soon
Great progress on the truck and hints of more to come. Nice wee motorbike too. I still say, the fridge looks better hanging up. I now have my fridge freezer, hanging in the kitchen. The food, mainly stays in, but I just eat, the stuff that falls out. When it does! Love from Scotland 5* :D
Glad to see y'all back Man. Nice progress. Liking the methodical replacement of the lower body panels. Did a jeep the same way. Keep things coming. We're watching......
Dave, great video!! Impressive workmanship, as always. And, you are a really funny, entertaining guy! I always look forward to your content!! And I really love this project!!!
Looking amazing! I wish you were my neighbor when I did my own “homemade/DIY power wagon restoration. I have a 1962 WM300. Watching your channel I see all the good, bad & funny do overs. Lol. Great job and best of luck to you. It took me 7 years in my garage to accomplish a restoration. I’m still not 100% done yet either.
@@partsandresto sounds cool. As of now “ big red” is waiting for me to finish with restoring rims and I got NOS Michelin 11R 16 XL tires. Long search but finally found 5 of them.
Good job! Yep, lots of gas and welding wire! Imagine trying to do that back home in your garage!🙄 You’re gonna have a nice solid cab, just be patient with the door openings and hinge mounts.
Here’s your plan to succeed. Step1. Understand that Welding is shit simple. Step 2. Buy a mig welder that at the very minimum has a regulator to accept shielding gas. Step 3. Watch CZcams videos on how to mig weld. Step 4. Weld junk metal together till you feel confident. That’s my education plan. It works cause it’s what I did.
I’m extremely impressed with your understanding and skill of fabrication basics, especially for being new at it. You are doing an excellent job, and this is the perfect project for you to cut your teeth. Keep up the great work! Tips for fabbing: a hammer and heat are your best friend and consequently your worst enemy. Tacking and hammering while the tack is hot helps. Clamping materials down while welding helps with distortion too. Keeping tacks as small as possible help reduce heat distortion from welding and grinding on sheet metal. You can use a copper, brass, or aluminum bar as a backing to fill small holes and gaps. You are better off using a little heat to help shape metal vs cold hammering/bending. Key word is “little” heat.
@@partsandresto Most people get the metal too hot when brazing. Keep the metal extra clean and use lots of flux. I like the pre-coated brazing rods, but they are more expensive than the bare rods and a can of paste. The temperature is just above a soldering temp, but below a welding temp. It’s kind of a “feel” thing. Brazing works with a capillary action, so it’s more of a “sweating” the filler in between two pieces lapped together. You can do fillets and but welds, it just takes a little more practice to make it look good. Hope this helps!
Thanks for the brazing tips! Haha. I actually need some physical tips for my oxy acetylene rig!! But I appreciate the tips! I’d give you a tip for your tips
Dave me old cupcake I do hope that was a solid wood floor and not laminate flooring, anyway totally enjoyable work, up to date with you're channel and looking forward to the DIY sandblasting tent. Stay safe chuckles. Gary 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
There is an imprint of the locking ring in the roof of our shop the kid was standing on the tire airing it up when it blew up I don't know if it killed him or severely injured him
There is, they are cnc cut beasts, custom jobs. They cost either 3 or 5 hundred bucks per wheel. There’s no such thing as a problem if your problem can be solved by money. I think I’ll just take my chances haha
Wow...just wow! Nice job. I love watching the progress as I am in the similar situation with my 50 Special Deluxe. Done with the floorpans and the rockers are almost finished. Minor body work is next. BTW - Do you still have the 48?
Noticed the thumbnail pic you used is from our build of our 1958 power wagon! Awesome work on yours keep it up! Check out our build video on our channel. 🤘🏼
@@partsandresto thank you! It was a great truck and fun build! Proud and flattered to see the pic and getting love. I just put the video of the build together this year since it was 5 years since we sold it. Barely made it to the auction too!
Completely false. We leave batteries on the ground (concrete, dirt, wood). Only thing that kills them fast is storing them in a severely discharged state, or severely over charging them (boiling them over).
I'm completely captivated by your progress and your learning curve during this whole project, Dave!
Thanks brother. More to come! It’s been pretty fun so far, not gonna lie
It's a blast to follow this
Glad you’re diggin it!!
Outstanding progress Dave,Cannot wait for the first drive!!
Outstanding work Dave, some great progress made there
Thanks Scott!!
6:30 I've restored a lot of tractors. Shit load of fasteners, and I media blast every one. Only way to protect fasteners is to coat them with a brush after installation. Well chrome does a pretty good job for a while, but I doubt that is what you are looking for. None of the plating processes are terribly effective, especially when a fastener needs decent torque on them.
Very cool video. I have a '46 WC... no rust from South Colorado!!! It is in primer waiting for me to retire in two years!!! You my friend are an inspiration!!!
From one Dave to another, thank you!!
11:53 Left rear brake application seemed slow. That does not necessarily mean that side needed to be bleed. Anything after the T in the line (after it splits and goes to both rear brakes) is the same pressure. Air anywhere in that section reduces the application pressure for both rear wheels. When they do not apply even it is almost always a mechanical issue. Usually either a shoe is tighter on one side or looser on the other side. Or a slave cylinder is not operating as smooth as its companion slave cylinder on the other side. Sometimes a line will be partially crimped on the "weak" side.
Think of a dead headed fire hose connected to an open hydrant. The entire hose has the same pressure in it even if there is no water at the end. The air is compressed by the water until the air pressure equals that of the water pressure.
At least you found a shop that fixes radiators! Looks good.
Wrap log chain center of hole around tire in couple places. If ring pops... with prevent horable damage...including you 30 feet away
I've got a 59 f-100 ambulance that was retired out of the navy I've been restoring for the last year or so your vids give me hope that I'll get mine on the road again soon
I enjoy your videos how you figure things out and Refab your cab
Thanks pete!
Awesome 👍
Great progress on the truck and hints of more to come. Nice wee motorbike too. I still say, the fridge looks better hanging up. I now have my fridge freezer, hanging in the kitchen. The food, mainly stays in, but I just eat, the stuff that falls out. When it does!
Love from Scotland 5* :D
Hahaha. Always nice to see you in the comments section sir. Thank you
Love your CAD work. Cardboard Aided Design.
I see what you did there
Glad to see y'all back Man. Nice progress. Liking the methodical replacement of the lower body panels. Did a jeep the same way. Keep things coming. We're watching......
Thanks brother, next Vlog already being recorded. I appreciate it man! Follow along on Instagram if you want!
Great work, and video. I really enjoy watching you work.
Thanks Matt! Glad you’re enjoying! More content in the works
Dave, great video!! Impressive workmanship, as always. And, you are a really funny, entertaining guy! I always look forward to your content!! And I really love this project!!!
Thanks for the kindness Paul! I appreciate it! Things are coming together
Looking amazing! I wish you were my neighbor when I did my own “homemade/DIY power wagon restoration. I have a 1962 WM300. Watching your channel I see all the good, bad & funny do overs. Lol. Great job and best of luck to you. It took me 7 years in my garage to accomplish a restoration. I’m still not 100% done yet either.
Haha. Where ya from Bob?
@@partsandresto Vineland NJ
@@bobf3779 oh boy, I’m in Philly! We’ll have to meet up!!
@@partsandresto sounds cool. As of now “ big red” is waiting for me to finish with restoring rims and I got NOS Michelin 11R 16 XL tires. Long search but finally found 5 of them.
@@partsandrestoI’ll send you pics if ya like. I’m proud of her👍🏻
I'm loving this series; and want to do a restoration myself. You do good work and I hope to see this finished soon.
Drop those lug nuts in a bit of Evaporust for a day or so. Should help that flash rust.
Right! Gotta get them coated, thinking paint would be no good.
Good Work !
Glad to see you back!
Thanks Grant!!
*evil laugh* its aaaaaaaalivvvvveeee!
Hahaha. That’s is bro
Good job! Yep, lots of gas and welding wire! Imagine trying to do that back home in your garage!🙄 You’re gonna have a nice solid cab, just be patient with the door openings and hinge mounts.
Thanks brother, will do!
Progress looks great. Please tell me that there is a fire pole to go along with that sweet staircase! 😂. Looking forward to the next update. Thanks
Oh shit, a fire pole would be fun!
I gotta admit. When it comes to a project welding is something I've never done. It is a tad intimidating.
Here’s your plan to succeed. Step1. Understand that Welding is shit simple. Step 2. Buy a mig welder that at the very minimum has a regulator to accept shielding gas. Step 3. Watch CZcams videos on how to mig weld. Step 4. Weld junk metal together till you feel confident. That’s my education plan. It works cause it’s what I did.
@@partsandresto a mig welder is on the wish list after the move got garage space now for projects
LOVE THE VIDEO cant wait to see the body on it, keep up the good work
I hope you install the doors before you weld the cab together. Looks good keep it up.
Yeas indeed, full bore custom fit up. She’ll be like
New!
I’m extremely impressed with your understanding and skill of fabrication basics, especially for being new at it. You are doing an excellent job, and this is the perfect project for you to cut your teeth. Keep up the great work!
Tips for fabbing: a hammer and heat are your best friend and consequently your worst enemy. Tacking and hammering while the tack is hot helps. Clamping materials down while welding helps with distortion too. Keeping tacks as small as possible help reduce heat distortion from welding and grinding on sheet metal. You can use a copper, brass, or aluminum bar as a backing to fill small holes and gaps.
You are better off using a little heat to help shape metal vs cold hammering/bending. Key word is “little” heat.
Great advise Lunch. And thank you! I need some little brazing tips
@@partsandresto Most people get the metal too hot when brazing. Keep the metal extra clean and use lots of flux. I like the pre-coated brazing rods, but they are more expensive than the bare rods and a can of paste. The temperature is just above a soldering temp, but below a welding temp. It’s kind of a “feel” thing. Brazing works with a capillary action, so it’s more of a “sweating” the filler in between two pieces lapped together. You can do fillets and but welds, it just takes a little more practice to make it look good. Hope this helps!
Thanks for the brazing tips! Haha. I actually need some physical tips for my oxy acetylene rig!! But I appreciate the tips! I’d give you a tip for your tips
@@partsandresto now I am craving smoked pork rib tips. Just the tip.
@@lunchbox2784 and only for a second
Dave me old cupcake I do hope that was a solid wood floor and not laminate flooring, anyway totally enjoyable work, up to date with you're channel and looking forward to the DIY sandblasting tent. Stay safe chuckles. Gary 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
Haha. Sure was, house was built in 1924, she can take it! Always nice to hear from you friend.
Look'n good. 🤞
I've enjoyed the series. So what is going on with the Power Wagon Restoration??? Were you able to finish it???
Woow perfect 🔝👌👏👏👏
you could posibly blue the lug nuts.
My nuts are already blue
Without a cage, wrap chains thru split rim for added safety when inflating
Indeed sir. I was gonna do this til I realized I could hide safely behind my comfy chair and fill it up
There is an imprint of the locking ring in the roof of our shop the kid was standing on the tire airing it up when it blew up I don't know if it killed him or severely injured him
Yikes!!! That’s super scary!
What tires are those and where did you get them? I’m having trouble finding tires for my Dodge.
It's been 8 months. What's the status? I would love to see the rest of your work
Is there an alternatieve to these widow-maker wheels?
There is, they are cnc cut beasts, custom jobs. They cost either 3 or 5 hundred bucks per wheel. There’s no such thing as a problem if your problem can be solved by money. I think I’ll just take my chances haha
Wow...just wow! Nice job. I love watching the progress as I am in the similar situation with my 50 Special Deluxe. Done with the floorpans and the rockers are almost finished. Minor body work is next. BTW - Do you still have the 48?
Thanks Bernie! Yeah I sure do have that car, it’s engine is out and I’m prepping it for paint.
Wife ever ask how the new scrap on the floor came from or is she just not surprised at this point
What tires did you use, I have an m37 and am looking for tire options....
Power king super traction LT II 9.00 16
@@partsandresto Thanks :)
Nice work. I make my share of errors that I have to go back and fix again. What was the oil leak fix?
Haven’t tackled that yet. The cab is completely apart being rebuilt still. I have a new rear main seal, hopefully that does the trick!
Dave, nickel plating is probably the least expensive way that you could do protect your wheel nuts yourself.
Cool, thanks is Bryant. I’ll have to look into that.
@@partsandresto Aaron works 7a-7p Monday through Saturday. Give him a shout.
Powder Coat !!
hi Dave what town are ya in ? looks like newark . im in jersey
South Philly
I need a better job. I want to do stuff like this.
Im a fireman, get a job with a 4 on 4 off schedule and you’ll have time too!!
You're conflating split rings with locking rings
Noticed the thumbnail pic you used is from our build of our 1958 power wagon! Awesome work on yours keep it up! Check out our build video on our channel. 🤘🏼
Just subbed! One of my favorite power wagon pics online. Beautiful truck sir!!
@@partsandresto thank you! It was a great truck and fun build! Proud and flattered to see the pic and getting love. I just put the video of the build together this year since it was 5 years since we sold it. Barely made it to the auction too!
Don’t set or store batteries on concrete floor… they will discharge rapidly do to a phenomenon that has something to do with mass of the concrete.
Good to know
That is a disproven urban legend. They used to have that problem back when batteries didn't have plastic cases. No longer a concern.
Completely false. We leave batteries on the ground (concrete, dirt, wood). Only thing that kills them fast is storing them in a severely discharged state, or severely over charging them (boiling them over).
Just dont do it those widdo makers scarey