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1980 Honda CX500C Valve Adjustment
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2017
- Adjusting the valves on my CX500. At the end, that is what it sounds like if you don't adjust them on the compression stroke. Second start up is done correctly.
Cx500 Service Manual : coodie.com/cx/
I NEED to do this on mine, your before/after clips definitely cleared that question up for me immediately. Thanks a bunch man, very helpful video, great quality, and great sound especially for being inside.
Thanks a bunch! I appreciate the feedback and glad to have been some help.
Awesome video man! Just got a 1981 and was looking for the perfect guide ;) Cheers!
Got any questions just ask.
same
The best bet is to get the service manual and read every step. I'll put a link to the service manual in the description.
Yay. Just bought an 81 and while it runs great I get it would be improved by a valve adjustment and carb sync. Just waiting for clutch plates so I can make a day of it.
Valves are very easy and I adjust much more than I really should. Plus, the more you do it the easier it is. Welcome to the CX500 family! Check out Cx500forum.com if you have any major questions.
Very nice.
After adjusting the values putting everything back do you have to crank it back to top end at all or just put it back without crank it back in place?
No need to crank it back once you are all done. The motor will do its job there. You are just spinning the motor in its natural direction, but by hand. Only turn the motor clockwise, never counter clockwise. If you miss the mark keep turning until you get back to where you need to be.
Sounds like a CX to me. Neat video.
When i first started it up with the ticking... i knew i had messed up right off the bat.
I meant at the end after you fixed it. It did sound wrong when you first fired it up....
@@TheWiscoKid what did you mess up? was this video the initial mess up or the second fix?
@@samkitto010 when I first started up the bike you can hear that it was ticking tremendously, that's when I knew I didn't have it to top dead center (TDC). The process is no different for getting it to TDC you just turn the motor over another 180°. So all the steps are correct... Just didn't hit the right spot the first time. I just went back turned the motor, felt for the piston to be at the top, and re-did the process.
You will still look in the inspection port to tell that you are at TDC, putting your finger in the spark plug hole is just a secondary check to really make sure you are at the right turn of the crank.... Sorry, kind of hard to explain in text. Let me know if you have more questions.
hi and thanks for the upload it is a great help!
1) what thickness flanges should we finish the adjustment for intake and exhaust (the one when the valve gets tight and it doesn't allow it to pass through)?.
2) so, after finding TL and TR and adjusting, we have to set each cylinder back to TDC? (I am not sure how we get to do that, please explain).
Ever since i had my cx i always had that noise from the valves and it is so annoying that no proper mechanic around my area is willing to make the adjustment and timing. I would totally love to make my 500 run like yours (the second time, cause now mine sounds pretty much like yours after your 1st attempt).
Thanks man!
Ok, i got your answers but give me just a moment to double check the thicknesses. Don't want to be wrong.
coodie.com/cx/ here is a online service manual to reference all the information for the work on a CX500. If you can, buy a physical copy too because it is a wealth of knowledge. With this book I tore down my entire bike and put it back together again, such a satisfying experience.
Set the engine to TL and adjust the intake (carb side) to .003 and the exhaust (self explanatory) to . 004. They say to make it so you feel a slight drag but I make sure that the .004 doesn't fit in the .003 side and the .005 doesn't fit in the .004 side.
You have to make sure you are at TDC or you will end up with a ticky mess... Sometimes it's hard to tell when you are exactly there so I stick my finger in the spark plug hole and feel to see if I am or not (it's still really hard to tell)
Here's another thing to think about... My CX500 had 76k miles on it and I could never get rid of the ticking noises even when I did the adjustments right, it would always tick. So i asked around for a year. FINALLY found someone from Australia that had a suggestion that in the rocker arms themselves there may be some wear. I pulled them apart and sure enough there were major issues. Ordered new rocker arms on ebay and the sound was smooth as butter.
If you get the adjustment right and they still feel sloppy, maybe look into this. It's not a common issue but if your bike has a lot of miles it may be something to look into.
Also make sure the you are adjusting your cam chain tensioner. It is very important not to let that get slack. Every 30k miles the cam chain must be replaced too, so keep that in mind.
OK... Let me know if you need anymore information. Thanks for the comment and I hope I may have helped in some way.
Good Job
Hi, good job, I'm trying to register my cx 500's valve, unfortunately I found some problems because at the end the engine doesn't run properly.... :-( i'm considering a 0,08 thickness plate for intake and 0,10 mm for exhaust. for the right cylinder I place the TR in line with the harrow and for left cylinder TL (i consider left and right when i'm sit on the bike therefore right side in correspondence of back brake and left side in correspondence of gear).
once i register bout cylinders and I try to run the engine when i check again the registration the set is wrong and I have to readjust at all...... I'm sure i'm doing something wrong but I don't understand.....
I saw that the only different between my way and your way is the way to turn the engine during the adjustment activity.
In your case you use tot turn a screw over the clutch to align TR and LR I was acting to start botton and moving back and forth the bike (turning the rear whell)
fore sure I will try your way much easy to align
if you have any suggestion your support is much appreciated
thanks and regards
I would do it the way I'm doing it. Try that out and let me know if it works out better for you. I also linked the service manual in the description to the video.
If there is still issues I have a suggestion to an issue but it is a long winded one. I'll try to find a link to my CX500 FORUM chat about what I'm thinking.
Send me a message again, I want to help.
@@TheWiscoKid thanks for your kind availability, I'm not able to find the ling for manual. i have a manual's hard copy but it is from cx500 til to the 79 my is 80 i think it will be the same but i would like to compare
thanks again
That manual will work just fine. The 79 and the 80 motors are basically the same thing. The 79 originally had a recall to update the cam chain tentioner.
@@massimoscandiuzzi5800 sometimes the rocker arms can ware out too. This CX500C had 80K miles on it and definitely wore out the shafts inside the rocker arms (rocker arm bushings) . When I first got it I could never seem to keep the valves adjusted right... I would adjust and then it would still be off.
Once I too the rocker arms apart I realized that there was big grooves in the shaft that holds the arms together. I replaced all the damaged shafts and the bike sounded like a dream afterwards.
How many miles does your bike have?
Motofaction has a good article on the CX and Gl 500's, you need to be TL/TR on the compression stroke not the exhausts stroke.
Yup, accidents happen and all the research you can do, the better. This video is to just show how easy it is and to have fun with editing. I'm glad so many people have watched it and hopefully been able to do the adjustment on their own. Thanks for the comment.
Great video @TheWiscoKid 😉. I have a 83' CX500 EC and I'm trying to adjust the valves as I always heard a metallic knocking on the cylinder head. I've searched a lot about this subject and I found a lot of confusion with the compression and exhausts stroke which confuses me a lot... I hope that you or someone here can clarify me. So, if TL/TR on the inspection hole is aligned with the index mark, you are for sure at the compression stroke, as you need 2 rotations of the crankshaft (piston goes up twice) to complete a full revolution on the rotor. Am I wrong? Sorry about my limited mechanical knowledge and if I'm asking something really stupid... 😋
As you can see at the end of the video I also messed that up... So it's not a bad question to ask at all. To be honest though, I tried all the tricks to tell which is the compression stroke and sometimes you still mess up. One trick is to put your finger or a screwdriver in the spark plug hole to feel the piston to see if it is at its highest point... Most of the time I just go for it. Put it to TL and adjust. You'll be able to tell that if your tappets are way too tight (your gauge won't slip through) you probably are on the wrong stroke. There is no way they should be that tight. I'm sure someone else could have a more technical answer for you.
If you continue to have issues after you have adjusted your tappets property there could be an issue with a bushing within the rocker arms. How many miles/kilometers are on your bike?
@@TheWiscoKid Thanks for you help, advises and tricks 😉 My CX has around 60 k km... and yes, I also saw you mentioned the rocker arms on a previous comment. The thing is that my "ear" is not so good (I could never play a musical instrument) to say if it sounds better or worse than before. I think it sounds better, but I still doubt about it... 😛 I will probably do some more tests, including record a previous and after result to be at least "comfortable" with the end result...
@@andrecarvalho7995 that is a great idea. Just to hear the difference and being able to play it back could help. The rocker arm sounds just like if you have your valves adjusted wrong... So it's a crappy thing to diagnose. But if you adjust them and then ride a few miles and it's loud again, maybe thats the issue. Mine had 70k miles on it. Rocker arms are really easy to disassemble too. Also they are very inexpensive, or were.
For me the easiest way: When TL shows, the left piston is at top of its stroke, but it could be between the exhaust and intake stroke. If it is, the valves will be slightly open, so there will be no play in the rocker arms.
You want the piston top dead center between the compression stroke and power stroke, where the valves are fully closed- and there is play in the rockers.
In other words, get TL in the window. If there is no play in the rockers, turn the crank one turn until the TL is back, and there should be play in the rockers. Then set the valve lash.
Hope this helps.
hi , I really like the handlebar, where did you get it?
Oh boy... It's been so long that I cannot remember.
@@TheWiscoKid ok It does not matter
What handlebars do you have?
These are just some eBay handlebars that I picked up for $23. They were labeled as Motorcycle Handlebar 7/8" Black Bars For Kawasaki. They were way more comfortable after having my wrists cocked sideways for a bunch of years. Surprisingly everything fit just fine on them.
nice editing at 4:40
haha, thanks man.
Does the valve cover have tourque specs?
Doesn't look like there is a specific torque for those bolts. I can't remember if those are 8mm or 10mm. Book says for 8mm bolt torque to 13-18ft lbs and a 10mm to 22-29ft lbs. Also, with those, turn them backwards until you hear them click into the threads. They strip really easy so you just want to make sure you have everything lined up before you start cranking.
Also, I usually just use a small ratchet and grab as close to the head of it and turn. You can't get that much torque on the bolt that way and it's just tight enough.
When you accidentally adjusted your valves on the exhaust stroke, what did you do to fix it for your second start? I just attempted this service myself and I’m pretty sure I made the same mistake due to the loud valve noise during initial start up
I just do it again and hope that I do it right the second time. Everyone makes it sound like finding top dead center is super easy... but I have done this many times and still mess it up every so often. I've tried a bunch of different ways to not make the mistake but haven't found a for sure way to tell. As you can see in the video I stick my feelers down in the spark plug holes and everything, and still got it wrong. Luckily it is easy to do, so redoing it doesn't take long.
If you google CX500 Service Manual you can follow the steps to do it by the book as well.
@@TheWiscoKid Hey thanks for a quick response!
So you’re saying you don’t have to go back and find TDC on the exhaust stroke and then tighten the valves back?
I probably should’ve noticed that I had the wrong stroke when I was adjusting because I couldn’t fit a gauge of any size into the gap. You’re totally right though, finding TDC on the compression stroke really isn’t as easy as you’d expect, especially for something as essential as it is. It’s hard to find to many flaws in Honda engineering but imagine how much easier our lives would be if Honda marked on the flywheel TR/TL (C) for compression and TR/TL (E) for exhaust?
@@AidanBoucher-yc8ed oh no, you should do that. Go back and find TDC, take your time and get it right,.
That is a huge sign that you have them on the wrong compression stroke (tight tappets, cant get in the gap). I had the same realization when doing on this video, wanted to slap my forehead.
Vise Grip valve adjustment tool?
Lol, yeah. It works really well. You don't have to put too much preasure on it and you don't want to use your old torn up grips. I've yet to have an issue with this system. Sometimes you don't have the money to spend on all the tools you use once a year.
@@TheWiscoKid I was just kidding, everybody's done it. But something that works well is one of those deck screws with the square slot. They fit perfect, just grip the screw upside down with your vise grips.
@@robertclary1718 oh shit! That's an awesome idea! Thanks man
@@robertclary1718 Robertson. Great idea !!
Мечта
I'm sorry, my Russian is no good, if that is the language that is. I found "Meyta" to mean "the girl" and that makes it more confusing. Maybe it is a slang term? Appreciate the comment. It's amazing how far this video has traveled.
Cuanto lleva de luz las valvulas ?
cinco kilómetros, si entiendo bien la traducción
@@TheWiscoKid la luz de válvulas 5 milímetros ?
@@walter8065 no, .10 mm en el lado de escape y .08 en el de admisión
@@TheWiscoKid perdón por hacerte otra pregunta,cual es de admición y cual de escape?
@@walter8065 el escape es el lado con los tubos de escape y la admisión es el lado con los carburadores
Idle speed sound a bit high
The first bit is with the choke pulled and then later on it is pushed in. I set my idle on that bike to 1200. 800-1k is ideal but this bike likes just a tad bit more.
@@coreyshort6479 yeah based on service info its supposed to be 1,100 rpm +/- 100 rpm
Exactly. CX500s don't really get their pick up and go until about 5k rpms so I figured 1200 was just that much closer to it. Now I ride a CX650C... That thing is torque right off the bat.
@@TheWiscoKid tbh I didn't even know they made a 650 variant of the bike. watched a couple vids on it and I can def see the torque difference from the 500. Kinda want to upgrade to that 650 now, lol.
@@plAgd They are a great bike, the only problem is... They only made them for 1 year so it's just a tad bit harder to find specific parts. Luckily the motors are 85% the same. Great ride though (I have 2) sometimes you can find a hell of a deal.
Hi! I'm going nuts: the FSM and the Owner's Manual each have different gaps we're supposed to set the valves to! I'm new to this stuff, but I'm just boggled. FSM says .08mm/.10mm intake/exhaust. Owner's Manual says .10/.12 --- which office at Honda was correct? Does it matter? If not, why? Ugh. I was ready to do this job today and ran right into this ridiculousness... Help?
I have always followed the factory service manual (FSM). That's all I've ever had though. So I would do .08/.10. FSM has everything you will ever need to know.
And I'm sure there is some wiggle room in there too. When you see me put the vice clamp on the tappet to hold it still while I tighten it, that's to avoid it from moving during tightening. There I guess are some special tools for this... But I use what I have. Just don't make it clamp too tight and I've had no issues with marking them up.
@@TheWiscoKid OK! I figured since the gap was so precise that it mattered. I'm just shocked they have 2 sets of data. ... Now I notice that my bro's feelers only have .002, .004, and .005. Guess I'll wing it and go by the sound! :)
@@OutYourBackDoor well... I wouldn't say wing it. It might be worth going to the store and buying a set. I don't recall them being too expensive. Well worth it in the end.
@@OutYourBackDoor I've always tried to make mine just right. It cuts down on the noise and I'm sure helps the longevity of the bikes components.
I wanna cry over my cx......I could do valves,oil,plugs, and cam chain in 15 min flat
That's why these bikes are so awesome. Changing out the cam chain takes a bit though...
You have to do this on the compression stroke, thats not mentioned in the video. yikes. I love the part when the bike starts knocking and rattling like hell and he revs it and start polishing the gas tank. WTF r u doing 5:43. You have to be at TDC............ ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE
Haha, you're a dork. I mention that is what it sounds like when you do it wrong in the original comment of the video.
Sometimes when you have something on your gas tank you wipe it off... It's not hurting anything to knock for a moment. This bike had a bad brass gasket in the rocker arm for about 30k miles before I got it and still was running until I sold it at 90k miles.
Not sure if you have ever heard one of these bikes run or not... But that's what they sound like.
@@TheWiscoKid i have lol i own one
If The purpose was to show how its done You failed - second I believe You didn’t do it correct The engine Sound bad - You didn’t show The Mark on The swing wheel - and You properly forgot to turn The engine twice between Adjustements between in and out valve 🤯
lol, welp, how about you spend the many hours to make a video yourself my friend. It is not a step by step tutorial, and in the comment on the video I mention that I did not do it correctly in the end. Its a lot harder setting up cameras and trying to film everything rather than just doing it for the sake of the bike.