Jay's Tech Tips #19: Engine Break In
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- Jay goes into specifics with how to run break-in your engine on today's tech tip. Follow us and suggest which tip we should venture into next!
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Best explanation I've heard of break-in. Agree 100%
Agreed!
And that’s why this is REAL ST. Very fruitful insight Jay. A big shout out to you and the team. Watching all the way from JAMAICA 🇯🇲.....mon. One love😄👊🏾
Thanks so much!
Your content just keeps getting better and better. I can see you're that quiet dude who thinks things out a lot. Makes for a good mentor.
Learnt so much from your videos Jay. I dont think I have missed any of your vids till date!!!
Now..now..Im building a 500bhp boosted K24a4 accord and buying all the parts from your website through a fantastic representative that you have by name Omar. I am glued to Real St. 👍👍👍
-Appreciations from India!!!
Ritesh
I loves these videos compared to whats super popular on youtube in car culture, this guy is extremely knowledgeable
I just bought my gt30r from these guys =) there awesome.
Best customer service ever.
Man I love your videos, I can appreciate all the wisdom you share with us and how easy you make it to follow along. Keep them coming 👍
GREAT VIDEO IVE BEEN DOING IT THAT WAY FOR 40 PLUS YEARS, I AGREE 100% HAVNT HAD ONE FAIL YET
every new car I ever bought I put 2500 miles on before beating on it. from 1968 until now never had problems.
Good practice. I totally agree.
I do the same no matter if it is an old 76 Chevy truck or a new 2019 Toyota 4Runner or a Briggs and Stratton lawn mower engine.
Also let the engine warm all the way up to operating temp before driving it for the first 2500 miles helps longetivity as well.
Even after its broke in it is always a good idea to let it warm up completely before running it hard.
Letting it warm up is cheap insurance that always pays off in the long run.
Love these! That Jay is so dreamy...
Could you guys do one on installing cams and degreeing them
Yep modern engines are computationally designed however that doesn't mean old engine design was lacking care. Already mentioned below is the ring bedding in. The reason for multi grade stone honeing is to provide oil retention tracks with the course grit and ring bedding with the fine hone. The fine hone wears away themselves and the ring to improve the mating surface and reduce blowby. You could ref Merlin engines from the 30's, repco engines from the 60's, mcclaren engines today (merc went Nicosil), or believe hacks from the guys building engines that won't last 20k miles. And the fine hone debris is caught in the rough hone till the ring pack smashes it out to be pumped around the engine oil circuit. Break in the engine doesn't require testosterone to be done right, just real engineering knowledge.
Good sound advice. I have watched dyno runs on many new rebuild engines are they are all heat cycled a few times before a real pull. These were all for race cars.
Thanks Stuart
@@realstreetperformance you are welcome. Great videos.
what about the motoman method - and his theory re the requirement of bedding in the rings for maximum seal during the limited window of opportunity before the abrasive crosshatching on the bore smoothes over?
Do a video on Degreeing cams? :D
Great videos Jay. Could you do one on cylinder head quench? I'm building an 2jz-ge with 8.75:1 pistons and I'm wondering what would provide better knock resistance.
1.Using the ge head gasket and keeping the stock .045" quench clearance and having a 9.3:1 CR
2. Using a gte head gasket, giving a .080" quench clearance and a 8.75:1 CR.
I know if we were using ethanol the first option would be ideal but its very hard to come by here in Canada. So I guess I'm wondering which would get more out of a 8285 on pump gas or c16.
The number changes depending on the material of the block however it's safe to say on your iron block .050 is a nice quench distance. Having a larger area than that can promote more dead zones during the burning process than a ideal situation. A F20 honda for example doesn't have much area at all that the "quench pad" or area that's parallel to crown of the piston is very limited, I'd call that a pretty ideal situation. A bad example would be a A853 Dodge engine found in the SRT-4. It's got a dome piston about .250 down in the bore and a good amount of dead zones in the chamber. The good news is turbocharging loans itself to be pretty forgiving and it's hard to make a "bad" combination as long as you're using the correct octane for your compression/boost level. In your specific situation I'd run the GTE gasket OR a .040 cometic.
REALSTREETPERFTV Thanks for the detailed response. I have ran the gte gasket in this car before and found th
main reason people stress about break-in being critical... is for non roller cam break-in
the way I was tought, is use sae 30w or sae 40w oild depending on clearences of course, as sae oil is supposed to have more natural stuff in it like zinc and just prime the oil system before starting it AND of course make sure you use quailty assembly lube and plenty of it on the cam. then run it just like jay said 2,000ish rpms for a good 20 mins. also, if you have dual valve springs you can remove the center springs so theres not as much pressure on the lobes during break in.
Love your videos!!!!
That’s a thumbs up 👍🏼 , like his video
so you would recommend to do 300-500 miles on light acceleration and deceleration. And after 500 miles oil change, I can just go hard on it?
Question for ya. I'm new to the channel and I love all your content, I actually created a folder with just your videos because I'm looking at rebuilding my 4g64 motor. Can you tell me if I do the 4g63 head swap on to my block am I going to riun it since the bore are different between blocks, or do I need a custom head gasket or what? I was told by a lot of people on my 3g Eclipse page I should get low compression pistons and a head swap and run a turbo. I like this idea but am unsure either the head part because of the bore difference, is that even an issue do you know?
hey jay I have a tech question for you, what do you think about warming up your daily driver, some people say its a waste of gas or a waste of time what do you reckon
nick sutcliffe Warming your car has nothing to do with saving a little gas. It has to do with tensile strength and preserving the life of your engine.
amazing info.
Jay, I'm pretty confused. I've always heard never run synthetic oil on initial start up on a rebuild due to the oil getting past the rings easier and something about letting the rings seat properly, but the link to the break in oil you guys recommend is synthetic.
I've always just ran a high zinc non synthetic with no ill effects.
Sorry for speaking in generalities. Synthetic oil that you'd buy at the DIY parts store shouldn't be used as break in oil as it's too slick on the cylinder walls and the worry is the rings won't seat in. The oils that are specific for break in are engineered to protect cams and lifters/rocker pads during break in but allow the rings to seat up as long as the hone work is done properly and the fueling is correct.
Thanks
Thank you for clearing that up for me sir.
I'm just gonna send it
I've seen an OHV motor being ran on an engine stand via electric motor to cycle the oil through and break the rings and bearings in gently, this can even be done with the heads and intake manifold off, and a good time to check mechanical distributor timing. If there's any way of running the engine without ignition pressure and doing that for a couple minutes, I'm sure it doesn't hurt the engine since the oil pump's running normally anyway. Is there anyone that says this is a bad idea?
what type oil would you recommend for a new built engine? it's a 5.3 ls I've always heard straight 30 non detergent for the initial start-up for the first 15 mins. then drain and run whatever oil you plan on using. is this accurate? what's your ideas?
There have been a lot of approaches over the years but HPL has made it really easy now. We just use HPL Break In oil for the first start, then switch to their Performance oil if it‘a going to be using gasoline or the race oil if it’s going to be using ethanol/methanol.
Break in oil: www.realstreetperformance.com/hpl-synthetic-break-in-motor-oil.html
Performance oil: www.realstreetperformance.com/hpl-synthetic-performance-motor-oil.html
Race oil: www.realstreetperformance.com/hpl-synthetic-race-motor-oil.html
I think your more right than wrong. Letting a engine run a few minutes then putting 500-800 miles on it before betting on it is probably better if for nothing better than pice of mind. When you have $15000 plus on the line it’s better safe than sorry any day for me and my marriage LOL.
Sprint car engine don’t have the time to break in start up and😢 go
What oil do you recommend for first startup?
High zinc non synthetic
New = never ever worked