can you show the piece that goes to the on off switch I have a wire that has no where to be plugged in and I see that to get power to the on off switch
How do you know when its time to replace the clutch? The pads were worn off mine and the entire clutch just melted since there was no friction material left.
The exact specs (shoe/ drum thickness) I do not know. Usually, when the engine starts to rev, but the chain does not spin in kind, it is time to replace the drum, clutch, or both. Fortunately, both can be had on eBay relatively cheap.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 Thank you!! It was crazy, the clutch actually melted and there was molten aluminum dripping out. I thought I destroyed the engine at first since it seized. Once I opened the clutch cover and saw it was just the clutch I was relieved. I did find a replacement on ebay. Will consult your excellent video for the install once it arrives. Didn't know the clutch housing had pin bearings to lube till I saw your video. I think the Mcculloch community is eternally grateful for these teardowns you provide. I certainly am.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 I received the ebay clutch today. I was surprised the two raised "pad" areas on the clutch looked shiny metallic and are smooth to the touch. I was expecting some kind of black friction material like a brake shoe. Then I replayed this video and yours looks shiny also. This isn't making sense to me. Is the clutch to drum contact metal on metal?
@@barackobama5304 Yes, it is metal on metal. Back in the 50's and early 60's many clutches were like drum brakes on a car, but since metal compounds have improved and chainsaws pretty much operate at full throttle, slippage and the associated heat are minimal.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 Interesting!! Well I learned something new today. Ok I will follow the video to put the clutch on. I may have inadvertently destroyed the original by revving it with the chain brake on - not certain what happened but it melted pretty quickly probably a minute or two. Thank you so much for being a resource to keep these babies running. Do you have a patreon link? I would like to send you funds for a couple of cold beverages.
Peter Handelson initially, I turn the idle screw in until I see the linkage move about a 16th of an inch. The older top handles you squeeze the throttle while starting, the newer ones have a high idle pin in the handle for starting. Once it’s going and warm, set the idle speed to just before the chain starts to move. (3000rpm-ish).
@@peterhandelson1193 2 Cycle oil has come a long way since the 80s. When I resurrect a saw I use 30-1 full synthetic (Stihl & Amsoil seem to be the best of these) mixed with treated, ethanol free regular fuel. (protecting the cylinder and bearings are a priority). Once I’m satisfied that it is running well and all the cobwebs are blown out, I lighten up the mix to 40-1. With the “good oil” you could easily go to 50-1, but as long as its not smoking like an old diesel, 40-1 is where I’m comfortable.
I picked up a like new 3216, yesterday. I cleaned the carb and put new fuel lines in it and cleaned it up, real well. It is a darling little saw.
Thank you - good expl...:)
can you show the piece that goes to the on off switch I have a wire that has no where to be plugged in and I see that to get power to the on off switch
Look in the reassembly video. I think it shows how the kill switch is wired
How do you know when its time to replace the clutch? The pads were worn off mine and the entire clutch just melted since there was no friction material left.
The exact specs (shoe/ drum thickness) I do not know. Usually, when the engine starts to rev, but the chain does not spin in kind, it is time to replace the drum, clutch, or both. Fortunately, both can be had on eBay relatively cheap.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 Thank you!! It was crazy, the clutch actually melted and there was molten aluminum dripping out. I thought I destroyed the engine at first since it seized. Once I opened the clutch cover and saw it was just the clutch I was relieved. I did find a replacement on ebay. Will consult your excellent video for the install once it arrives. Didn't know the clutch housing had pin bearings to lube till I saw your video. I think the Mcculloch community is eternally grateful for these teardowns you provide. I certainly am.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 I received the ebay clutch today. I was surprised the two raised "pad" areas on the clutch looked shiny metallic and are smooth to the touch. I was expecting some kind of black friction material like a brake shoe. Then I replayed this video and yours looks shiny also. This isn't making sense to me. Is the clutch to drum contact metal on metal?
@@barackobama5304 Yes, it is metal on metal. Back in the 50's and early 60's many clutches were like drum brakes on a car, but since metal compounds have improved and chainsaws pretty much operate at full throttle, slippage and the associated heat are minimal.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 Interesting!! Well I learned something new today. Ok I will follow the video to put the clutch on. I may have inadvertently destroyed the original by revving it with the chain brake on - not certain what happened but it melted pretty quickly probably a minute or two.
Thank you so much for being a resource to keep these babies running. Do you have a patreon link? I would like to send you funds for a couple of cold beverages.
Does anyone know the general carburetor settings? Idle, high, low? Thank you!
On most carb, Turn the high and low in gently until seated, the turn both H and L out 1-1/4 - 1-1/2 turns. That should give you a good starting point.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 - what about the idle?
Peter Handelson initially, I turn the idle screw in until I see the linkage move about a 16th of an inch. The older top handles you squeeze the throttle while starting, the newer ones have a high idle pin in the handle for starting. Once it’s going and warm, set the idle speed to just before the chain starts to move. (3000rpm-ish).
@@j.k.mcclead9207 the Manuel for the eager beaver 2.0 says 20:1 fuel, thoughts?
@@peterhandelson1193 2 Cycle oil has come a long way since the 80s. When I resurrect a saw I use 30-1 full synthetic (Stihl & Amsoil seem to be the best of these) mixed with treated, ethanol free regular fuel. (protecting the cylinder and bearings are a priority). Once I’m satisfied that it is running well and all the cobwebs are blown out, I lighten up the mix to 40-1. With the “good oil” you could easily go to 50-1, but as long as its not smoking like an old diesel, 40-1 is where I’m comfortable.