Top Tip: that real hard to get at slotted bolt on the fuel inlet side is a breeze to get from underneath with a Deep offset box wrench flipped upside down. Even if you only have to do this job once, it’s worth the price of the $20 set of deep offset box wrenches from Harbor Freight compared to the frustration. Break it loose with wrench and twist off with your finger. Same thing in reverse but just use wrench to final tighten. You’re welcome!
A good tip is label the year on the powerhead which is the main thing , the lower unit parts are the same but if you look up your year by the tag on the transom clamps it will be wrong ! I also mark the date it was installed ! Some people pull the tag from the donor and attach it to the inside of the new hood .
i use the factory powerhead mounting kit with the special studs. or just cut a couple of the 3/8 screws, but makes it one heck of alot easier to mount these powerheads without scratching the machined surface.
About to do the same swap on my ‘93 70hp. Do you recommend changing the lower crank seal assembly on the lower head before reinstalling? I always did it on my small HP 50/60s era OMC outboards when go through the motors, but not sure if really necessary on these “newer” higher HP engines. Great video!
Nice Job Brandon as always. I have '96 Johnson 2 cylinder, one of them with only 50psi the other a little bit more than 130!, complete really good shape, how much do think can worth it ? power trim is working. I fix some easy stuff but swap powerhead can me too much advance for me hahahaha.
Maybe a couple hundred; I mean you can get a good running one for $1000, but yours needs that in repairs. Although, a replacement powerhead will be cheaper than a rebuild.
Very enjoyable. You can always use OMC "M" sealer to hold the P/H gasket in place. Dries pretty quickly. I'm guessing you just did not show putting some white grease on the drive shaft splines. Thanks again.
So I assume that nut on the back is the reason I can’t get my power head off. I got all the long main bolts out but it’s just dangling there not moving.
Their is a reason why those exhaust adapter bolts calls for red loctite. That’s what holds the power head to the mid section. I have actually had them come loose & one fell out because the motor was miss firing. Gsc is for sealing the bolts not to reinforce the mating halves & can’t be substitute it for loctite 518.
It doesn't call for Red Loctite, if it did I would be putting it on there; It called for Gel-Seal... I do understand that loctite 518 and Gel-Seal is the same stuff, but when you say "red loctite" the common understanding of this is the thread locker - which this did not call for. It called for a thread sealant
Locktite is just a brand name that makes other products as you know but I’ve never used thread locker on a motor before and my theory is that the motor gets hot enough to loosen thread locker ( like putting a flame to a bolt to loosen the grip ) and that defeats the purpose of thread locker !
@@davekimbler2308 That is not true. The heat required to break Loctite blue, red, and many other types of thread sealer like my Threebond is WAY higher than any motor gets. In fact, I pulled up the datasheet for Loctite blue and red: Service temperature: -65°F (-54°C) to 300°F (149°C) ....... "apply localized heat to nut or bolt to approximately 250°C and dissemble while hot". That's 482 °F. I hope your motor is not running at 482 °F.
@@mjodr I hope so also ! Lol. But as you know thread sealer is different then thread locker . I believe the thread locker over time deteriorates making it prone to failure and let’s loose at a much lower temp .
No, is that a thing people do? Now, I will say when I had a bottle I was using for years, and it started to get much thicker. As time goes on I'm sure this bottle will be the same way.
@@BrandonsGarage Don't know if you can thin it. Just curious if you can thin it, because i have not seen the stuff that thin. 2nd can for me and always thick as F**. ...maybe just bad luck or some old stock i've gotten.
ok mabe a silly question buy why all the permatex Aviation glue on the bolts to link power head? and I know you're using the evinrude sealant but looks like the same mabe a little thinner. but you do have some great videos! so keep it up! I have grown up around diesel trucks and a shop and love to tinker so I'm getting in to working on some smaller outboards first! not really any shops around my area for maintenance around my neck of the woods on the Illinois River. sorry long comment
because these arent cars. steel in aluminum will oxidize (and rust if you remove the zinc coating) and seize, thus the need for sealer. anti-seize is crap as it turns to a hard clay like substance and actually makes things worse in a marine enviornment.
hi , you are doing a very good job , i have a Outboard Johnson 60HP but i dont no the year ,, the Model is VX-12R and the Serial C501802 end is no spark on the sparks plugs im from Montreal and i dont no a Mecanic to put the engine on ,, thank you very much can givemi an adress
Got 1992 evinrude, just like that one.. VRO had failed for a previous owner, cost me a lot to get it running again..premix now. Where do you get a power head like that one on a “cheap”. ?
@@davekimbler2308 thanks. mine was fixed by a local Marina in the late 90s... before internet. So you really couldn't look for cheap replacement parts on your own. Those are very good engines..easy to work on
@@ct1762 don't know. oil tank was full, top end was scored and burned up. running 3 thou oversized now, 120 psi compression. It was an expensive mistake. Seller was a POS
I do like the work, I do learn a lot. I also know the American way of ‘if it isn’t broke, dont mend it’. I do wonder ifyou got that thing that far dismantled, why oh why don’t you do the effort to give it a good clean and a lick of paint while you at it. I assume you don’t run a museum so the apparatus will be up for sale(?) where appearance is of importance. For the rest of it, very nice work and greating from waterrich Netherlands.
I love these evinrude era outboards. Can't wait to see it up and running again. Nice work 👍
Top Tip: that real hard to get at slotted bolt on the fuel inlet side is a breeze to get from underneath with a Deep offset box wrench flipped upside down. Even if you only have to do this job once, it’s worth the price of the $20 set of deep offset box wrenches from Harbor Freight compared to the frustration. Break it loose with wrench and twist off with your finger. Same thing in reverse but just use wrench to final tighten. You’re welcome!
Great job brother Brandon. I'm about to put the 140 Johnny on the Mako. Should be a friggin nightmare that I will love
Great tips and tricks Brandon. Thanks for posting.
Always enjoy your videos. Great, thank you.
Awesome video man helped me out tremendously, thank you
A good tip is label the year on the powerhead which is the main thing , the lower unit parts are the same but if you look up your year by the tag on the transom clamps it will be wrong ! I also mark the date it was installed ! Some people pull the tag from the donor and attach it to the inside of the new hood .
If it werent a sticker label I would have done just that.
@@BrandonsGarage I know you would !
I thought for sure that gasket shifted😫 well done👍
i use the factory powerhead mounting kit with the special studs. or just cut a couple of the 3/8 screws, but makes it one heck of alot easier to mount these powerheads without scratching the machined surface.
excellent video
Very good ill be doing my next following week
About to do the same swap on my ‘93 70hp. Do you recommend changing the lower crank seal assembly on the lower head before reinstalling? I always did it on my small HP 50/60s era OMC outboards when go through the motors, but not sure if really necessary on these “newer” higher HP engines. Great video!
Well, it's a good idea too. But you'll need the guide/alignment pins, and maybe a seal installer too.
How did you unhook and rehook shift linkage
If you are dropping the lower unit any way. Is it easier to install the power head with it still in place or with it removed.
Nice Job Brandon as always. I have '96 Johnson 2 cylinder, one of them with only 50psi the other a little bit more than 130!, complete really good shape, how much do think can worth it ? power trim is working. I fix some easy stuff but swap powerhead can me too much advance for me hahahaha.
Maybe a couple hundred; I mean you can get a good running one for $1000, but yours needs that in repairs.
Although, a replacement powerhead will be cheaper than a rebuild.
Doing this in a week or 2, so no sealer on the gasket?
Mr. Brandon. Could you tell me where I can get a bilge pump for my 1994 bass boat? I have looked everywhere! Can you help please?
Where are you located sir. Got this same motor. Need help
What are all the taps you use?
And nothing broke
Very enjoyable. You can always use OMC "M" sealer to hold the P/H gasket in place. Dries pretty quickly. I'm guessing you just did not show putting some white grease on the drive shaft splines. Thanks again.
Well, I didn't show it because I didn't do it.
As the teenagers would say #yolo
...but stay tuned for the next video.
So I assume that nut on the back is the reason I can’t get my power head off. I got all the long main bolts out but it’s just dangling there not moving.
Well if you didn't pull the nut off, I would say that's a safe bet.
O.M.C.
What was the torque u did on the 6 bolts holding PH?
18-20 ft/lbs in stages and x pattern
Their is a reason why those exhaust adapter bolts calls for red loctite. That’s what holds the power head to the mid section. I have actually had them come loose & one fell out because the motor was miss firing. Gsc is for sealing the bolts not to reinforce the mating halves & can’t be substitute it for loctite 518.
It doesn't call for Red Loctite, if it did I would be putting it on there; It called for Gel-Seal...
I do understand that loctite 518 and Gel-Seal is the same stuff, but when you say "red loctite" the common understanding of this is the thread locker - which this did not call for.
It called for a thread sealant
Locktite is just a brand name that makes other products as you know but I’ve never used thread locker on a motor before and my theory is that the motor gets hot enough to loosen thread locker ( like putting a flame to a bolt to loosen the grip ) and that defeats the purpose of thread locker !
@@BrandonsGarage yeah to be technical gel seal is what I meant.
@@davekimbler2308 That is not true. The heat required to break Loctite blue, red, and many other types of thread sealer like my Threebond is WAY higher than any motor gets. In fact, I pulled up the datasheet for Loctite blue and red: Service temperature: -65°F (-54°C) to 300°F (149°C) ....... "apply localized heat to nut or bolt to approximately 250°C and dissemble while hot". That's 482 °F. I hope your motor is not running at 482 °F.
@@mjodr I hope so also ! Lol. But as you know thread sealer is different then thread locker . I believe the thread locker over time deteriorates making it prone to failure and let’s loose at a much lower temp .
Have you thinned that gasket sealant compound?
I use that same stuff and it's much much thicker
No, is that a thing people do?
Now, I will say when I had a bottle I was using for years, and it started to get much thicker. As time goes on I'm sure this bottle will be the same way.
@@BrandonsGarage
Don't know if you can thin it. Just curious if you can thin it, because i have not seen the stuff that thin.
2nd can for me and always thick as F**.
...maybe just bad luck or some old stock i've gotten.
@@-Viceroy- what exactly were you using? permatex aviation sealer is quite a bit thinner...
@@ct1762 Locktite gasket seal compound, the same as Brandon.
I may have to give the Permatex a try
ok mabe a silly question buy why all the permatex Aviation glue on the bolts to link power head? and I know you're using the evinrude sealant but looks like the same mabe a little thinner. but you do have some great videos! so keep it up! I have grown up around diesel trucks and a shop and love to tinker so I'm getting in to working on some smaller outboards first! not really any shops around my area for maintenance around my neck of the woods on the Illinois River. sorry long comment
because these arent cars. steel in aluminum will oxidize (and rust if you remove the zinc coating) and seize, thus the need for sealer. anti-seize is crap as it turns to a hard clay like substance and actually makes things worse in a marine enviornment.
hi , you are doing a very good job , i have a Outboard Johnson 60HP but i dont no the year ,, the Model is VX-12R and the Serial C501802 end is no spark on the sparks plugs im from Montreal and i dont no a Mecanic to put the engine on ,, thank you very much can givemi an adress
Got 1992 evinrude, just like that one.. VRO had failed for a previous owner, cost me a lot to get it running again..premix now. Where do you get a power head like that one on a “cheap”. ?
There are a few places that sell them , one being Tim’s marina and boat parts in Minnesota
@@davekimbler2308 thanks. mine was fixed by a local Marina in the late 90s... before internet. So you really couldn't look for cheap replacement parts on your own. Those are very good engines..easy to work on
VRO/OMS failed to oil at all? very rare as it will just pump more oil if the theres an air leak. were all of the cylinders scored or less than all?
@@ct1762 VRO failure is very high on the 70hp to 110hp , I can pick them up really cheap and take 2 to make 1 good one and delete the VRO completely !
@@ct1762 don't know. oil tank was full, top end was scored and burned up. running 3 thou oversized now, 120 psi compression. It was an expensive mistake. Seller was a POS
I do like the work, I do learn a lot. I also know the American way of ‘if it isn’t broke, dont mend it’. I do wonder ifyou got that thing that far dismantled, why oh why don’t you do the effort to give it a good clean and a lick of paint while you at it. I assume you don’t run a museum so the apparatus will be up for sale(?) where appearance is of importance. For the rest of it, very nice work and greating from waterrich Netherlands.
Itll be for sale at some point, youre correct there.
As far as repainting it - mant reason I don't. Perhap Ill make a detailed video about that.
dude, get you some power ratchets or drill head nut drivers, cut down your work time. But I'm sure you already knew that .
First.