Finding an Engine for Your Homebuilt
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- čas přidán 2. 02. 2023
- Should you pay big bucks for a new or rebuilt engine, or try to find a used one? How can you tell if it’s a good one or a basket case? Do you need to tear it down? Maintenance expert Mike Busch A&P/IA discusses all this, and more for the 2023 EAA Homebuilders Week. Savvy Aviation offers Professional Maintenance Services to owners of General Aviation aircraft, such as: SavvyMx (Professional Maintenance Management), SavvyQA (Expert Consulting), SavvyPrebuy, SavvyAnalysis (Engine Data Analysis) and Breakdown Assistance. Savvy also publishes a monthly newsletter with lots of interesting information for the general aviation enthusiast; subscribe to it at www.savvyaviation.com or text the word "Savvy" to 33777. This webinar was hosted by the Experimental Aircraft Association (EAA).
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
Thanks Mike for the presentation. As usual learned lots of new stuff. Somewhere in the back of my head is the dewpoint figure of -40 degC for the absolute prevention of corrosion. This is not easily achievable with most fridge based dryers ( there are exceptions Drycol-Breather-Brochure-EN-2018-01-Grid-SER-0957) so I think desiccant may be the gold standard for long term storage.
I knew a guy in Florida who needed to store an engine for a couple of years until he built a Quickie, so he took it apart, put the pieces in a 50-gallon drum, and filled it with oil. Problem solved.
Thanks Mike, I like what you suggested about the first flight being used for engine break-in on experimental aircraft. I remember going through that very thought process as I was getting ready to do the first flight on my Kitfox with a new Continental IO-240. Everything I read talked about doing a short first flight to get a general feel of the aircraft.
What??? What about the engine? I went against the grain and decided to do the engine break in first. My thinking was that as long as the plane, engine and indications were looking normal I would do a one-hour engine break in flight over the airport.
I don't think the EAA flight test handbook talks about engine break in. I think you are the only other person I am aware of that has proposed this idea.
FYI I am an A&P-IA with 40 years' experience. Great thinks mind alike. 😉
Wait, Lycoming used the regulatory power of the FAA to violate the Sherman Act? A company cannot force a consumer to use a 2nd product to use or continue to use a first product.
Hi Mike. From UK but presently in Vietnam. Great stuff as always, thank you. I have a Bede 4 with 0-320 in the UK. With regard to the idle RPM at startup... I was always told that the 320 needed 1100 minimum RPM to be able to splash lube the cam? Can you clarify which is best for this engine. I always try to slowly get to 1100 from startup and warm with lean mixture as soon as I can to help protect the cam also. Thanks. Peter G
I've never heard of this. These engines should be able to idle at 600 to 800 RPM, and there would be plenty of oil splashing on the cam at those RPMs. I think idling at higher rpm would be more abusive to the cam if anything. -- MB
What is your opinion about getting a good engine with a good price now to guard against huge price increase due to inflation a few years from now. It is contingent on the buyer can preserve the engine from rust.
Impossible to predict the future obviously, but we have not seen many periods where engine prices go down. Preserving the engine is easy - do like Mike instructed to ensure the inside of the engine stays "dry" (low humidity) with a coating of oil, and it will last indefinitely. I did what he suggested to my io-360 and preserved it 10 years. I also filled it completely with oil. Any metal under oil won't rust. If your engine is horizontal on a stand, you can rotate the engine (not the crankshaft - don't rotate that) and ensure oil gets everywhere. If you live in a very humid climate, try to store the engine inside with A/C which will also reduce humidity. The spouse might not like it too much, so better to let the engine rust than to get a divorce!
When it comes to pickling an engine that is going to sit for a while why not just fill the whole engine top to bottom including the cylinders with diesel fuel? 20 bucks and everything is always bathed in an oil and can’t be exposed to air. Can’t really see how rust could form and it’s cheap
What is the procedure for breaking in one or two new cylinders in an old engine?
Same as for a new one. Straight oil and running hard might only be needed for the one cylinder but the others will be fine with the oil and the high power.
Great webinar! Quick comment - the 200 HP angle valve engine is probably not the best engine for an RV-6A - the 180 HP parallel valve engine would be better, and probably cheaper and easier to find. Dropping back to a 320 engine will save a lot of additional money, and will give up very little performance.
The straight-valve O-360 (180hp) Lycoming is indeed cheaper to source parts for than the angle Valve 200 hp IO-360. Both engines are reliable and well-supported. Some people just gotta have that extra power...
What would happen if you didn't do the break-in procedure?
If you do not do the break-in procedure properly, the cylinder walls are likely to "glaze" and you will end up burning more oil among other possible problems.
Certified General Aviation is doomed. $80,000 for a 4 cylinder 😢