Day 36: Las Herrerías to O Cebreiro | Camino Frances | Camino De Santiago | May-July 2022
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June 28, 2022
"Go where you feel most alive"
Camino De Santiago Day 36: Las Herrerias to O'Cebreiro, Spain
8.6 km (5.34 miles) Elevation Gain: 638 meters (2,093 feet)
There are 3 modes of transportation accepted when you arrive in Santiago De Compostela in order to receive your Compostela certificate. By foot, by bike, or by horse. And Victor, the local horse owner, happened to have a horse just for Andre to ride up to O'Cebreiro.
I started off my morning loaded with anxiety and café con leche. I would be walking solo today. And I wasn't at all sure how my feet would handle the 638 meter ascent into O'Cebreiro, population 15 inhabitants living their year-round
As I was taping my feet for the day, Andre headed down the road to meet up with the horses by 9 am. I decided not to wear the foot wraps we purchased a few weeks earlier from the farmacia that I had been wearing daily. Though they've been necessary to stabilize my feet while hiking, they have also crowded my feet and caused new pains on top of my current foot issues. This was definitely a gamble since I wasn't sure if I could walk without them, so I quickly stuffed them in my backpack and headed out down the hill from our hotel to catch up with Andre.
Andre's horse Bunny led the way as Andre and 3 fellow pilgrims followed Victor's commands up the road towards the mountain. These horses make this climb daily along with Victor. The horses are definitely well taken care of, something I looked into before reserving one for Andre.
I had prayed to the foot gods the night before that my aching feet would ease up and allow me to climb today. Almost immediately, I found it difficult to try to keep up with Andre and the horses. So, I lost them within the first mile.
But the most exciting news of the day? Pretty much ZERO foot pain!!
The scenery was breathtaking. Every step was worth the climb. I really enjoyed walking solo today. There were a few pilgrims I met and had short conversations with, but for the most part it was me, myself, and I. I felt both my strength and confidence increase as I trudged forward alone.
When I reached the mountain village of La Faba, I found a small side rock bench in the shade and decided it was time to remove my long sleeve pullover and put my hair up in a ponytail. I also dipped my hiking scarf in the village fountain to cool my body temperature down.
I continued on towards La Laguna, another village further up the mountain. I stopped several times for breaks and to just plain turn around and enjoy the stunning views all around me. I also kept an eye on horse poop and horse tracks in the mud to be sure I was on the same trail as Andre. I'm thankful they were both in ample supply.
Upon arriving in La Laguna and drinking my last sip of water, my plan was to replenish here and maybe grab a bite to eat at the local cafe. There was two problems with this plan. No clean water source and Andre had all the money since he carries it daily in a pack around his shoulder along with our passports and important documents. With all the nervous energy this morning, we did not think this part out very well. My throat and tummy would have to wait.
With just 2.3 km (1.4 miles) left, I turned a corner and realized I had officially reached the Galicia region. This added fuel to my step and gave me that last bit of energy needed to reach the top.
I expected to see Andre up there enjoying a cerveza when I reached the peak. Instead, I saw him walking towards me with a big smile on his face. And that was enough for me to just cry like a baby right there on the trail. The sense of pride, relief of no foot pain, exhaustion but also exhilaration, and slight dehydration all hit me at once. And my emotions took over.
After showers, we made our way to the town Tienda. This was no ordinary Tienda. In fact, we weren't sure it was a Tienda at all until we went inside. Inviting music led the way with steep stair choices leading to the front door. One bench layed precariously over a steep drop with one leg of the bench mounted on a wobbly rock. I sat there for about 2 seconds and then moved across to a more secure seat. We met two women from Italy and shared stories over Tienda cerveza, vino tinto, and Pringles chips. We also played with the Tienda owner's 5 month only dog Chicka.
At 7 pm, we headed back towards the village church for a pilgrim's mass. The small chapel of Santa María do Cebreiro founded in 836 is the oldest church found along the Camino. We received a special pilgrim's blessing along with small stones as a gift. It was an emotionally filled room, myself included.
To say that I'm aware of my blessings today is an understatement. Every single second of it was rewarding and fulfilling.
I do not know what tomorrow brings, but today I felt very much alive.
Mi espíritu está vivo con energía!!
We bought some cheap wine and a bag of Jamon potato chips from the Tienda. I loved coming out of dinner to the misty fog and then the next morning the sunrise was incredible.
At 6:01 and beyond - Just Magnificent Galician Mountain Scenery. !!!
I just loved the views going up to O Cebreiro! One of my favorite days crossing into Galicia. The mass in O Cebreiro was inspirational that night....
I loved it all as well, one of my favorite days on the Camino 🚶♀️🚶
In case you're interested, that tombstone you showed in the floor of the church was for Elias Valina Sanpedro, the person who started painting the yellow arrows to mark the Camino and revive it, who was the local priest in O Cebreiro.
That's amazing, thank you for sharing that!! We had no idea!!
bravo in your solo walk, very brave
I’m loving every video you guys share, this one made me emotional too as you were walking alone and were getting out of breath and in pain on your foot and when you arrived in Galicia I felt a happiness for you 😊as if I was there. It’s my dream to follow all the towns you guys have gone so far. I’m still planning to do the Camino this year. Buen Camino Peregrinos , Beatriz (from San Francisco, Ca.) 02/03/24
Definitely try to stay in O'Cebreiro..it was a magical village and visit the church for the pilgrim's mass blessing and the Tienda. Buen Camino!! 🚶♀️🚶✌️
Love Leon's story (15:36-16:00) You're right he must be a pilgrim spirit. Congrats on walking up to O Cebreiro despite a painful foot and thanks for another great video 🥰
Another great video, are you checking any location for your retirement, maybe? 😅
👏✌️✝️
Very cool. Thanks!
I loved it at the top of O Cebreiro, much like you did. I spent a night there. It was here where I purchased a symbolic ring, complete with shell, that I would give to my gf at the end in Santiago when I proposed to her. By the way, I totally missed that Tienda!
A magical place to buy her 💍!! We bought some jewelry there as well for ourselves and souvenirs for family members. You'll have to go again and this time spend an afternoon at that Tienda!! 🚶♀️🚶
@@wedofly1998 Plan!
Beautiful videos .... even if in the videos maybe there is no need to talk .... because the silences and the music speak together with the images .... the words are out of tune ... anyway nice job ... good . By from Italy
We saw the white horse with no rider as well. It was kind of weird.
Freaked me out!!