Great video, Lee. This will save a plumber's bill, something my daughter and son-in-law do not need. Guys like you are a national treasure, and I'm so grateful to have the opportunity to learn things that others have learned without having to pay, in this case, a plumber's bill, to get something fixed. Keep sharing, and God bless you, man.
A couple of ideas: 1) I'd use a slip adapter w/NTP. That way, when it's time to change the valve in the future, you just unscrew the old valve, and screw on a new one. 2) When applying Teflon tape, it might be wise to wrap it clockwise.
Yes a threaded coupling would have made sense. The old valve lasted 18 years so hopefully the new valve lasts at least that long. Then I will be too old to care about it. LOL! And you are about the 100th person to tell me I put the Teflon tape on the wrong way (and that I didn't need to put it on that joint at all, which I agree with). I think that is a complete myth, unless i had put the tape on super loose and left the end of the tape flapping in the wind. I am seriously thinking about making a video where I wrap Teflon tape on a threaded pipe joint in the wrong way, on purpose, put the joint under pressure to see if it leaks, and repeat the test 25 times. I'm pretty sure I would have a hard time getting it to leak at all.
Great video Lee; I will tackle mine tomorrow...already scheduled a plumber, but I've tackled other projects and brothers like you help me maintain confidence that I can accomplish these tasks & save considerable $$. (will definitely cancel the plumber & pay myself) Blessings and be well.
Lee, I called the plumber Friday evening and scheduled them for Monday. ...watched your video later Friday night, then tackled this same job Saturday am. I already had tools except the pipe cutter. Total spent at Lowe’s = $40. Job complete; no leaking and looks much better! Thanks for super instruction...I will tackle our other 2-bathrooms. Even w/ the $40, I still saved a minimum of $100. Thanks a million! Be well.
Lee McNeil, no the other bathrooms are not leaking yet. But I’m thinking preventive maintenance-Our water is hard and inexpensive contractor materials corrode fast. My house is only 4-yrs young and we’ve had to replace all three bathroom faucets and two shower cartridges. I don’t want to wait until the leaks start. Your thoughts?
Pleased I watched this video. It does not relate exactly to my problem but reminded me that preparation is crucial to a well done job that will last. Thanks
Thank you for posting this video… it helped me tremendously after waking up to a flooded bathroom which flooded my home. I completed this change this morning and toilet tank floatation device. Waited two hours then turn my water on. Did an inspection and just keeping an eye on it for a couple days… but it looks great and no leaking. Thank you. Now off to repair the ceiling - water damage!
Hi Lee, i have this cheap plastic valve in my toilet and the flexible hose end is leaking, called plumbers and quoted $189 but by watching your detailed video i think i can do this. Hubby said to call a plumber but thats a lot of money to pay. Will get materials at Lowes and wish me luck. Thanks for sharing your skills!!
Great service to us who know a little but want to learn more .... and now .... I will call a plumber to do 8 shutoffs because I have a new knee and can't kneel on it ,,, but the PVC through me for a look ... I always changed the shutoffs when I refaced a kitchen after removing the countertop ... tyvm ..
This information on repairing the pipe leading to the shut off valve is most helpful. Our problem was underneath the bathroom sink. The soft metal leading to the turn off became so corroded the valve dropped off. The leak from the pipe is bad.
That sounds like your flexible pipe connection from your shut off valve to the fixture. That is a pretty easy thing to replace. Make sure you use braided steel lines for your replacement (or soft copper), not rubber or plastic.
It's real important to apply your Teflon tape in a clockwise direction which coincidentally is the same way you thread on most of your fittings and supply lines if needed. If you apply the tape in an anticlockwise direction it will unravel as you screw on the fitting which will render it useless. Very useful video up to where you applied the Teflon tape incorrectly.
Valid point, but I'm pretty sure the chances of that happening are pretty slim. I mean, sure it's possible, but I can't imagine how you could apply the Teflon tape so badly and loosely that it would unravel just by screwing on the fitting on, but I guess it could happen.
@All along the Watchtower. Neither of you are correct so far, and it's been almost 3 years since I did that repair. I won't hold my breath waiting for it to leak, I'll tell you that much.
@@Allison_Chaynes Yeah, I get a lot of hate from plumbers about this video. If they think this is taking business away from them, then they need to move. You can't find a plumber around here unless you're ready to shell out some serious cash.
Highly recommend a 1/4 turn valve. I think the one used is a traditional valve - turns all the way around, maybe a few times, to shut water off - that uses a washer that degrades over time. 1/4 turn valve use fitted metal to block the water flow, and doesn't have a rubber washer to fall apart as it gets old.
Good question. As I understand it, the PVC and CPVC cement actually fuse the plastic pipe and fitting together. The primer softens the plastic before you apply the cement, so theoretically you would get a stronger joint. I just did some research and found this www.plumbingsupply.com/the-great-pvc-primer-debate.html. They tested PVC pipe cement joints to failure with primed and unprimed joints, and it showed the primed joints were actually weaker. But the maximum cure time they tested was 24 hours. Who knows if the unprimed joints would be weaker over a long period of time. One thing to note, primer is required by code in many places, that is why it's dyed purple so the inspector can tell the joint was primed before the cement was applied.
Thank you for the clear instruction. My faucet is pretty close to the wall , how do I know what kind of pipe in it, it covered with a decorative covering, but when I pushed it , I see the pipe is greenish, is that copper ?
Great video. But I would use a compression fitting or a shark bite fitting to do it. And the teflon tape is not necessary because the flexable water line has a rubber gasket in the nut to create a seal. And when you do need a teflon tape, make sure it goes on the thread clockwise.
I see no reason to pay extra for a compression type fitting when glue would work better. I've seen compression fittings fail but never a glued joint. You are right about the Teflon tape though, but it doesn't hurt to give a second line of defense if the gasket leaks. I think the direction you put the tape on doesn't matter either unless you put the tape on way too loose.
Thanks. One suggestion: if the old valve used compression fittings rather than glue, you might not have to cut the pipe off, which can be a problem if you don't have a lot to spare. You might be able to unscrew the valve and work the compression ring off the pipe.
I watched this because it’s been years since I replaced a valve on PVC and at that time I had the supervision of my nephew-in-law, who’s a professional plumber. A couple of things stood out, though... 1. Yes, PVC is great, unless you live in a climate that’s hot and dry like Las Vegas, and it makes plastic hard and brittle. 2. Do all plumbers expose their cracks? Who stares at a plumber’s crack all day? Leave them alone and let them do their job if you hire one. 3. Way too much PVC cement! 4. Why do you hold the valve on the pipe for 30 seconds? Is it going to pop off? 5. PVC cement is ready to pressure test (and use) in three hours.
1. I live in Florida and we use CPVC in commercial applications all the time, so it is more than adequate for the job. This house was re-piped with CPVC 20 years ago and all of it is routed right through my attic space, which is insulated at the bottom chord of the truss, so it gets hot AF up there, and I've had no problems with it at all. I agree it isn't as good of a material as copper, but re-piping with copper piping would have cost twice as much, if not more. 2. I've only seen plumbers crack on overweight male plumbers, never on a skinny female plumber. But then again, I don't remember ever seeing a skinny female plumber. 3. A little nit-picky, but I'll agree. 4. Holding it until the glue set. I know 30 seconds is a little overkill, but the intended audience will be mostly amateurs so I'll admit to being conservative here. 5. Yes but back to the audience comment above. Plus the fact that some people watching this video may try to use a different type of cement because that's the only thing available or whatever reason.
Not sure where my shut off valve is exactly in this old trailor i have a leak from minersl buildup on my inlet piece and i bought pvc scissor cutters as well maybe i should return to get the thingy u have but i have the knob turned off in the kids bathroom so where else should i look besides turning the water breaker off?? Never had to do this so no idea where to look to turn it off...thanks any advice is appreciated plan on fixing issue tomorrow (Monday)❤👀👍🏻🤝🏻🤔
If you know where your water meter is located, there will very likely be a valve there that will shut the water off to your house. If you don't know where it's located, you can contact your utility company to see if they can tell you where it is.
I installed hundreds of this valves for home owners they have same problem , the builders put a wrong shut of valve in first place , a compression valve on cpvc pipe now you need to take the compression shut of valve no need to cut the pipe , use two in one cpvc cement it's yellow can that has cleaner and cement this look more professional than messy primer , no need to put teflan tape on 3/8 thread the toilet hose has rubber washer this is will cause leak instead .you need to tight the cpvc part with plumbing dope on thread part prior to install the shut of valve .the main shut valve in front of the house may snap and you will in plumbing disaster you don't own that valve that belong to city if thing goes wrong you will be responsible for all damage .Thanks for the video .
@@mrchillpill8625 If it was installed on cpvc, then my guess it (compression ring) would probably be eaisly removed. For copper, it can be hard to remove, so a tool like this comes in handy ...czcams.com/video/y0ikqzSz-DQ/video.html
I think he is making the point that I did not need to cut the pipe because I could have just attached a new valve with the compression fitting that was already on the pipe. And he is correct if the leak was coming from the valve and not the fitting, and it might have saved me around 15 minutes of time. But I wasn't sure where the leak was coming from, so I just replace the valve and fitting together.
Not exactly. The cutting of the pipe would be the same but you need to get a valve with a different fitting because you can't glue copper. You need to either use a compression fitting or solder it, and I would suggest using a compression fitting unless you've got the equipment and experience to solder copper fittings. Several comments have suggested using something called a Sharkbite fitting, which is similar to a compression fitting, but has teeth that bite onto the outside of the copper (or CPVC) pipe when you tighten it, which gives it more strength to keep it from coming off under pressure. I don't have any experience with those but they seem pretty popular.
I maybe could have done that but I thought it best to replace the whole thing. It's not that much more work and you don't have to worry if the new compression ring mates right with the the existing fitting. I had a compression fitting fail on me at my first house and luckily someone was there to shut off the water or the whole place would have flooded. So I take a conservative approach to all plumbing repairs I make to my house.
Hi Lee, thank for your video, it is very helpful. I have a question, if your new valve leaks again and you keep cutting off the PVC pipe, the the pipe becomes too short, then what happens?
Unfortunately, I think you would have to open up the wall, put a coupling on the pipe and extend it back out. You might be able to do it with a small enough hole in the wall that you can cover it up with an escutcheon ring around the pipe.
Yes several people have told me that. I had never heard that Teflon tape needs to be put on certain direction. I guess because if you put it on the wrong way, it would be possible for the tape to some how unwrap itself from the threads when you put the threaded fitting on. But I can't imagine how it would be able to unwrap itself like that unless the tape was poorly wrapped or loose.
@@LeeMcNeil yeah it's the same idea as if your wiring a receptacle with the wire twisting clockwise so it doesn't un wrap. I think its a precaution for pipe fittings and your probably fine.
Pipe thread tape is not required on fittings that have a rubber oring/gasket, such as supply lines. Only needed on metal to metal fittings, but I guess it doesn't hurt.
Yes people have commented about the thread tape not being required, but some will then go into a long lecture about how it's going to leak and how I don't know what I am doing - so thanks for not doing that. It's been a year and a half since I made that repair and it's still good, so I am pretty sure it doesn't hurt anything.
@@LeeMcNeil I'm sorry to hear that some people reply that way. I didn't see those replies and just wanted to put that info out there for those who don't know. This way someone isn't questioning why they don't have thread tape on their valves or conversely go out and buy thread tape they don't need. Since it hasn't leaked, I'd say you did it right.
Doesn't hurt to use a little pipe tape or dope despite the rubber gaskets than are now coming installed in new supply hoses. Just an extra precaution. Frankly, I use pipe dope.
@@PatrickFDolanI put dope on everything. I know I don't have to but I don't have to wear pants either but I do. Sometimes, I use tape and dope. Belt and suspenders.
Good video! I just had a new dishwasher delivered. Home Depot said they could not install it because I have a weird type of valve on the pipe. I do not know what they are called; however, they are white, plastic, cheap looking, and they have a white disk you press to close. The water pipe is clamped on them, so I will have to put one of these valves on. How much would a plumber charge to do this for a dishwasher?
Great video and thanks for posting. Hope I never have to do this. I'm positive that if I did it this, when I turned the water back on, it would shoot off the pipe into the room and flood my bathroom.
Thanks for sharing this video. Is there a way to do this without cutting pipe each time? If you prime, would that make it much harder to pull the valve off later or is there a common approach to address that?
The valve comes in two pieces, one is the fitting that glues onto the pipe and it connects to the actual valve at a compression fitting. If your existing valve is leaking at valve piece itself, and the fitting is not leaking, you probably could just install the valve half of a new valve to the existing fitting without cutting the pipe. It's worth a shot. And CPVC doesn't need to be primed before you apply the glue, but it doesn't hurt. You will not be able to take off the glued fitting without cutting the pipe, no matter whether you prime it or not.
Thanks so much for the follow up. In my case, the leak is happening where the pipe itself meets the fitting. Confirming - basically there’s no tool pull it out? We already don’t have much pipe left - what would be our options?
@@bch6707 You might be able to pull a little more pipe out of the wall just a bit, but only if the pipe isn't strapped to a stud near where the pipe penetrates the wall (you are basically bending the pipe inside the wall cavity). There isn't a dedicated tool to pull on the pipe, but I think your fingers would work fine for that. You could use a needle nose vise grip to lightly clamp onto the pipe right at the wall after you pull a bit, which will keep the pipe held in place until you get the new valve installed, then release the vise grip when complete. If you can't pull it out from the wall at all, you will probably need to open up the wall just enough for you to cut the valve off, then install a coupling with a short piece of pipe to extend it.
To add to this, I would go ahead and put the new valve onto the existing fitting and see if that stops the leak. It may not, but it's worth a shot because it will save you some work if it does.
Yes the valve doesn't have to be pointing up, or any direction. Just make sure you turn off the water and tighten the valve back up before you turn the water on again.
QUESTION: is there not a way to remove the valve WITHOUT cutting the plastic pipe??? i want to swap out the compression type valve with a quarter turn ball valve, but the cut pipe may not be long enough.
Teflon tape should have been wrapped in a clockwise direction, same direction as the nut when it is put on. Otherwise it may unravel and not make a proper seal.
Well, if your leak is coming from the valve itself, you could try to just attach a new valve to the existing valve fitting (which I probably could have done here to be honest). If you need to replace the whole valve and you don't have enough room to put a pipe cutter on the pipe, you could try a hack saw blade. If your valve is too close to even do that, unfortunately you will have to cut a hole in the wall. If you have a regular drywall wall, it will be pretty easy to patch. But if you have tile on the wall like I do, you will have to carefully remove a few tiles and save them. I would use a an oscillating multi-tool with a diamond blade to dig the grout lines out and try to work the tool behind the tile to pop it off the wall. Then cut the drywall behind it to extend the pipe, patch the drywall, then reinstall and grout the tiles back into place.
Thanks for the vid, Those supplies don’t need tape in my area, there’s a seal inside when compressed works very well. when you use tape go clockwise. The rest was perfect ✌️
I hired Sellers Tile Co in Wilmington, NC to replace tile in my bathroom. One of the demo guys came running to me "We have a leak!" I followed him into the bathroom. I was not happy #1 I told the owner I would do the plumbing demo via removing the sink, cabinet & toilet). #2 He had cut my copper tubing. #3 I told him that it was a compression fitting, that it should had not been cut. I told the demo guy that the valves didn't need to be removed because I was cutting out a section of the cabinet for the plumbing. The tile company wanted to charge me for their mistake.
I don't think a standard copper compression fitting designed for copper pipe should be used on CPVC , but from what I understand there are compression fittings made specifically for CPVC pipe. I've also had some people comment about a product called a Shark Bite fitting that looks like it might work. Personally wouldn't use one if I could avoid it. If you do, buy your fittings at a real plumbing supply house as opposed to a big box store. You probably have a better chance of getting advice from someone who knows what they are talking about there. Not that there aren't competent people at Lowe's or Home Depot, but there are a few who aren't.
The hole around the pipe was way too big to caulk unless I wanted to go out and buy some backer rod, so it got foamed. I probably could shave the extra foam off so the escutcheon covers it completely, except I don't care. And the base of the water closet is caulked perfectly, so I'm not sure where you're trying to go with that nonsense.
Can the sleeve that attaches to the pvc be removed from the valve? I have a valve under the sink and no room to cut and no pvc left, I am thinking of keeping the portion attached to the pvc and screwing on the new valve. If it is one piece then no go.
Yes you can probably do that if your leak isn't at the fitting itself. It's worth a try. If it's still leaking, you can still cut off the fitting, even if it's really close to the wall, then put a coupling and a small (3" or so) pipe extension and put the new valve fitting on the extended pipe.
I have a friend here in Orlando who grew up there. Do you know Alfredo Barrott? He is the kind of guy who seems to know everyone, so there might be a chance that you do too.
Lee McNeil u know something I have learned if you have any kind of plumbing in your house etc. that if you touch one pipe on any plumbing or mainly toilet that u will find another leak u touch something then there’s more leaks lol sucks
I know what you are saying. I think the CPVC piping is a little better in this regard than copper or galvanized piping though. And this piping isn't that old either.
I just replaced my valve but its still leaking. Same as the old valve, it would slowly keep having water come up and out of the area where it would connect to the water supply line if it was installed. What could cause that problem?
I had never heard of those so I had to look them up. That is a pretty cool fitting but I still would have had to cut the pipe to put a valve on. But if someone ever had to replace it again, they wouldn't have to cut the pipe. Hopefully it won't be me doing it, but whoever does it would probably cut the pipe anyway because they wouldn't necessarily know that it was a removable fitting. Hell, even if it was me, I would cut it because it will be 15 years from now and I would have forgotten. LOL!
CauseAndEffect and Antoine Dorsey - I've been doing construction for close to 40 years now, and I'm pretty damn sure that I've forgotten more about this stuff than you two jackasses will ever know. If you're both worried about your plumbing business taking a hit because of this video, then I suggest you move to Florida because you can't hardly find a plumber down here.
Probably between $150 and $200, if I had to guess. I have a lot of plumbers who watch this video apparently because they drop a lot of comments, pointing out minor things that they think I did wrong, so maybe one of them will chime in. LOL!
No. First you should check your shut off valve to make sure it's closed completely. Once you're sure the shutoff is closed, then you need to make sure the pipe is completely dry before gluing it. Try pushing the cut end of the pipe sticking out of the wall downward. That will make whatever water is left in the pipe drain out. Then twist a paper towel up until it's in the shape of a stick and shove it into the pipe and leave it there for a while. If the paper towel becomes completely soaked, then replace it. You don't have to get all the water out of the pipe, just enough to keep it from coming out of the pipe while you are trying to glue it.
Yes if you have a threaded fitting connecting the valve and the pipe. My valve is a compression fitting glued to the CPVC pipe. You could attempt to just swap it out forward of the compression fitting part of the valve, but you can't replace the compression ring without cutting the pipe, so it might not seal correctly. It's better to just cut the old valve off and put in a new one.
Oh yeah I did not use that cutting thing you used to cut off the valve..-too little cpvc was available to me. I bought a smooth tiny saw along with the sand paper and used those to cut and smooth/clean the area
Regardless of a glue or compression fitting, this part will eventually fail over time. You should look into the new sharkbite valves. The "bite" seems to be a better design for high pressure.
A few people have mentioned those fittings but I don't have any experience using them. This joint won't fail over time any faster than the rest of all the other plumbing joints in my house, so it will be fine.
@@LeeMcNeiljust make sure the slip valve seats all the way down. Sometimes there's not enough stub out left that make slip valves harder to work with. I might use a traditional valve then because is don't want to push too hard on cpvc. Might cause a crack somewhere behind the wall. You did it right, just differently.
You could put a coupling on the existing stub out, then extend another short piece of pipe to the coupling. You may need to open up the hole in the wall a little to get the coupling on the pipe if the wall opening is tight around the pipe.
Very nice video, the question is, if this one fails, you are running out of CPVC pipe. Any reason why the original valve could not have simply been screwed off? It was likely a CPVC compression fitting.
I wasn't sure exactly where the leak was coming from, but I guess I could've tried that to see if it stopped the joint from leaking. If the pipe is too short then you could cut it as close to the wall as you are able, then throw on a coupler and a short piece of pipe. Otherwise you would have to open up the wall.
This is good if you have a pvc pipe to work with and it sticks way out there giving you a lot of room. What would he do if the pipe was copper and it barely stuck out of he wall and it was the compression fitting that was leaking? Whole other world of a problem.
You are going to have to open up the wall probably. I would solder on an extension to the pipe and then solder on a new valve. Then you will have to repair the hole in the wall but that isn't very difficult. I'm not a fan of compression fittings because I had one fail on me and it wasn't pretty.
I'm not sure. Adjustable screw, rotational or close quarter's pipe cutter would probably be a good description. I don't know if there is an official name for it though.
If you have a compression fitting holding the valve onto the pipe, and if that fitting isn't leaking, you should be able to attach a new valve onto the part of the old fitting attached to the pipe. I probably could have done that in my situation, but I had plenty of pipe poking through the wall. If attaching the new valve to the old half of the fitting isn't an option, you will either need to cut the pipe with a tool that can cut it closer to the wall - like a hacksaw blade - or you will have to open up the wall just enough to make the cut so you can put a coupling on the old pipe to extend it further away from the wall.
Would probably have picked shark bite fitting over CPVC fitting. Don't have to mess with primer/cement and no need to wait for fitting to set up (i.e. don't have to leave whole house water shut off for hours). 11:02 Should wrap teflon tape the other way so that when connection is tightened, teflon tape gets wrapped tighter instead of bunching up. To be clear: when looking at threads head on, wrap teflon tape in clockwise manner, not counter-clockwise. 11:28 You mention that the house was re-plumbed with CPVC 17 years prior so I'm assuming braided steel line from shut off to toilet is of similar age. Most braided steel lines like that have rubber/elastomer washers/seals and after that long the ones I've seen have pretty brittle washers/seals. I usually replace. Not trying to be disresepectful and attempting to offer constructive criticism. Thank you for taking the time to put together this video.
I Would rather use the way he did it to be honest, ive seen many people use sharkbite and after about a year or so it started with a drip or a leak, not saying they don't work but i don't trust them really.
Yes I would not trust them. They are stupidly overpriced and really, what's the advantage of using them anyway? There are a lot of spammer pushing those things in my comments for some reason, and that alone is a great reason not to use them.
@@tmaddock71I've been using sharkbite for years. Never had a problem part any part failure... I like the 1/4 turn valve. I've had one blow off but that was because I didn't seat it properly and it happened as soon as I pressurized it so I quickly sorted it. Thanks.
Great video, Lee. This will save a plumber's bill, something my daughter and son-in-law do not need. Guys like you are a national treasure, and I'm so grateful to have the opportunity to learn things that others have learned without having to pay, in this case, a plumber's bill, to get something fixed. Keep sharing, and God bless you, man.
Thanks man, that is awesome!
until u fuck up something and the bill will be bigger
A couple of ideas: 1) I'd use a slip adapter w/NTP. That way, when it's time to change the valve in the future, you just unscrew the old valve, and screw on a new one. 2) When applying Teflon tape, it might be wise to wrap it clockwise.
Yes a threaded coupling would have made sense. The old valve lasted 18 years so hopefully the new valve lasts at least that long. Then I will be too old to care about it. LOL!
And you are about the 100th person to tell me I put the Teflon tape on the wrong way (and that I didn't need to put it on that joint at all, which I agree with). I think that is a complete myth, unless i had put the tape on super loose and left the end of the tape flapping in the wind. I am seriously thinking about making a video where I wrap Teflon tape on a threaded pipe joint in the wrong way, on purpose, put the joint under pressure to see if it leaks, and repeat the test 25 times. I'm pretty sure I would have a hard time getting it to leak at all.
Very well produced step by step video. Thank You !!!!
Great video Lee; I will tackle mine tomorrow...already scheduled a plumber, but I've tackled other projects and brothers like you help me maintain confidence that I can accomplish these tasks & save considerable $$. (will definitely cancel the plumber & pay myself) Blessings and be well.
thank you for taking the time to make this video, it really helped me a lot!
Lee, I called the plumber Friday evening and scheduled them for Monday. ...watched your video later Friday night, then tackled this same job Saturday am. I already had tools except the pipe cutter. Total spent at Lowe’s = $40. Job complete; no leaking and looks much better! Thanks for super instruction...I will tackle our other 2-bathrooms. Even w/ the $40, I still saved a minimum of $100. Thanks a million! Be well.
I'm glad the video helped! Why are you tackling the other two bathrooms, are they leaking also?
Lee McNeil, no the other bathrooms are not leaking yet. But I’m thinking preventive maintenance-Our water is hard and inexpensive contractor materials corrode fast. My house is only 4-yrs young and we’ve had to replace all three bathroom faucets and two shower cartridges. I don’t want to wait until the leaks start. Your thoughts?
Pleased I watched this video. It does not relate exactly to my problem but reminded me that preparation is crucial to a well done job that will last. Thanks
Very informative. Straight to the point
Thank you
Thanks a ton Lee. Going to try this tomorrow morning!
I like the way you explain.
I explain in different ways.
Thanks a lot for this video you got me back on track.
Thank you for the clear explanation; very helpful !
Thank you for posting this video… it helped me tremendously after waking up to a flooded bathroom which flooded my home. I completed this change this morning and toilet tank floatation device. Waited two hours then turn my water on. Did an inspection and just keeping an eye on it for a couple days… but it looks great and no leaking. Thank you. Now off to repair the ceiling - water damage!
Thanks man! I really like hearing this.
Great video and worked perfectly! Thank you!
Thanks!
Thanks for the helpful video.
I just replaced a valve this morning due to a whining noise, waited two hours and so far no leaks! Thank you for such a complete video!
That's great to hear. Thank you!
The fix worked like a charm. Thanks!
I'm here for you bro!
I used your video to replace my shut off valve today. Thank you!!
That's what its here for. I'm glad it helped you out. Thanks!
Just watching you shut off the water from outside was quite informative and helpful, just what I needed to know, thanks man
Glad I could help!
Great video, thanks for all the details.
Great video, very nice work, well explained thank you!
What an awesome video, thank you Sir!
This is awesome Lee. Thanks very much! :)
Thank you it really help me a lot..
You should have a man do this type of repair for you. Do you smell or something?
Thank you for good technique
Super helpful, thank you!!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. Thanks!
Thanks!
thankyou for this video very very helpful god bless you
Thanks for the great tutorial! Visitors coming and the toilet was leaking, hubby can’t do it and the plumber never showed... I believe I can do this!
Get 'er Done!
Hi Lee, i have this cheap plastic valve in my toilet and the flexible hose end is leaking, called plumbers and quoted $189 but by watching your detailed video i think i can do this. Hubby said to call a plumber but thats a lot of money to pay. Will get materials at Lowes and wish me luck. Thanks for sharing your skills!!
This is why plumbers lay so much hate on me for this video. Good luck and let me know how it turns out.
I have one just like that. That cutter is nice. I may get one for the job.
Great video. Very clearly presented. Thanks a bunch.
Thanks Lee, that was very helpful and I think I can fix my leaking toilet now!
Great tutorial!
Fantastic vudeo!!! Thank you
Great service to us who know a little but want to learn more .... and now .... I will call a plumber to do 8 shutoffs because I have a new knee and can't kneel on it ,,, but the PVC through me for a look ... I always changed the shutoffs when I refaced a kitchen after removing the countertop ... tyvm ..
Yeah it's getting harder and harder to do this stuff as I get older.
Well done nice video
Great video
This information on repairing the pipe leading to the shut off valve is most helpful. Our problem was underneath the bathroom sink. The soft metal leading to the turn off became so corroded the valve dropped off. The leak from the pipe is bad.
That sounds like your flexible pipe connection from your shut off valve to the fixture. That is a pretty easy thing to replace. Make sure you use braided steel lines for your replacement (or soft copper), not rubber or plastic.
It's real important to apply your Teflon tape in a clockwise direction which coincidentally is the same way you thread on most of your fittings and supply lines if needed. If you apply the tape in an anticlockwise direction it will unravel as you screw on the fitting which will render it useless. Very useful video up to where you applied the Teflon tape incorrectly.
Valid point, but I'm pretty sure the chances of that happening are pretty slim. I mean, sure it's possible, but I can't imagine how you could apply the Teflon tape so badly and loosely that it would unravel just by screwing on the fitting on, but I guess it could happen.
@All along the Watchtower. Neither of you are correct so far, and it's been almost 3 years since I did that repair. I won't hold my breath waiting for it to leak, I'll tell you that much.
@@LeeMcNeil It seems you won the argument. The one guy erased his comment in shame, grabbed his ball and went home. 🥺🤭
@@Allison_Chaynes Yeah, I get a lot of hate from plumbers about this video. If they think this is taking business away from them, then they need to move. You can't find a plumber around here unless you're ready to shell out some serious cash.
I accidentally applied mine in a clockwise position, 😂.
Highly recommend a 1/4 turn valve. I think the one used is a traditional valve - turns all the way around, maybe a few times, to shut water off - that uses a washer that degrades over time. 1/4 turn valve use fitted metal to block the water flow, and doesn't have a rubber washer to fall apart as it gets old.
Yes those are probably better valves. I'm not sure why most supply stops use this type of valve.
Hi Lee, great video. Thanks. I am about to tackle this job in my laundry room sink. I have a question: what was the purple primer for?
Good question. As I understand it, the PVC and CPVC cement actually fuse the plastic pipe and fitting together. The primer softens the plastic before you apply the cement, so theoretically you would get a stronger joint. I just did some research and found this www.plumbingsupply.com/the-great-pvc-primer-debate.html. They tested PVC pipe cement joints to failure with primed and unprimed joints, and it showed the primed joints were actually weaker. But the maximum cure time they tested was 24 hours. Who knows if the unprimed joints would be weaker over a long period of time. One thing to note, primer is required by code in many places, that is why it's dyed purple so the inspector can tell the joint was primed before the cement was applied.
Thank you. So much better than a shark bite.
This i s use full for house owners thanks 😊
extremely-Helpful
Thanks!
You had me at "looking at the plumbers crack all day long" I needed that laugh!
Thank you Lee
Thank you for the clear instruction. My faucet is pretty close to the wall , how do I know what kind of pipe in it, it covered with a decorative covering, but when I pushed it , I see the pipe is greenish, is that copper ?
It sounds like it, but copper pipe only turns green when it oxidizes - which it shouldn't be doing inside your wall, unless it's getting wet some how.
Awesome! Thank you.
Thanks!
Great video. But I would use a compression fitting or a shark bite fitting to do it. And the teflon tape is not necessary because the flexable water line has a rubber gasket in the nut to create a seal. And when you do need a teflon tape, make sure it goes on the thread clockwise.
I see no reason to pay extra for a compression type fitting when glue would work better. I've seen compression fittings fail but never a glued joint. You are right about the Teflon tape though, but it doesn't hurt to give a second line of defense if the gasket leaks. I think the direction you put the tape on doesn't matter either unless you put the tape on way too loose.
@@LeeMcNeil Wrong again hack
Thanks. One suggestion: if the old valve used compression fittings rather than glue, you might not have to cut the pipe off, which can be a problem if you don't have a lot to spare. You might be able to unscrew the valve and work the compression ring off the pipe.
If you don't have enough pipe sticking out of the wall you can just glue a coupling and another piece of pipe on it.
@@LeeMcNeil you might not have enough room for a coupling. Also, that orange lava glue is 1 step, you don’t have to prime it.
I watched this because it’s been years since I replaced a valve on PVC and at that time I had the supervision of my nephew-in-law, who’s a professional plumber. A couple of things stood out, though...
1. Yes, PVC is great, unless you live in a climate that’s hot and dry like Las Vegas, and it makes plastic hard and brittle.
2. Do all plumbers expose their cracks? Who stares at a plumber’s crack all day? Leave them alone and let them do their job if you hire one.
3. Way too much PVC cement!
4. Why do you hold the valve on the pipe for 30 seconds? Is it going to pop off?
5. PVC cement is ready to pressure test (and use) in three hours.
1. I live in Florida and we use CPVC in commercial applications all the time, so it is more than adequate for the job. This house was re-piped with CPVC 20 years ago and all of it is routed right through my attic space, which is insulated at the bottom chord of the truss, so it gets hot AF up there, and I've had no problems with it at all. I agree it isn't as good of a material as copper, but re-piping with copper piping would have cost twice as much, if not more.
2. I've only seen plumbers crack on overweight male plumbers, never on a skinny female plumber. But then again, I don't remember ever seeing a skinny female plumber.
3. A little nit-picky, but I'll agree.
4. Holding it until the glue set. I know 30 seconds is a little overkill, but the intended audience will be mostly amateurs so I'll admit to being conservative here.
5. Yes but back to the audience comment above. Plus the fact that some people watching this video may try to use a different type of cement because that's the only thing available or whatever reason.
+Lee McNeil ...The valve that you too off, does it have a washer inside? I shut it all the way, but water still drips out! Thank You!
The one I took off I believe had a compression washer but not a regular washer.
Thanks man!
That's what I'm here for!
Not sure where my shut off valve is exactly in this old trailor i have a leak from minersl buildup on my inlet piece and i bought pvc scissor cutters as well maybe i should return to get the thingy u have but i have the knob turned off in the kids bathroom so where else should i look besides turning the water breaker off?? Never had to do this so no idea where to look to turn it off...thanks any advice is appreciated plan on fixing issue tomorrow (Monday)❤👀👍🏻🤝🏻🤔
If you know where your water meter is located, there will very likely be a valve there that will shut the water off to your house. If you don't know where it's located, you can contact your utility company to see if they can tell you where it is.
I installed hundreds of this valves for home owners they have same problem , the builders put a wrong shut of valve in first place , a compression valve on cpvc pipe now you need to take the compression shut of valve no need to cut the pipe , use two in one cpvc cement it's yellow can that has cleaner and cement this look more professional than messy primer , no need to put teflan tape on 3/8 thread the toilet hose has rubber washer this is will cause leak instead .you need to tight the cpvc part with plumbing dope on thread part prior to install the shut of valve .the main shut valve in front of the house may snap and you will in plumbing disaster you don't own that valve that belong to city if thing goes wrong you will be responsible for all damage .Thanks for the video .
How do you remove the compression shut off valve? To install a valve like the one he installed in this video??
@@mrchillpill8625 If it was installed on cpvc, then my guess it (compression ring) would probably be eaisly removed. For copper, it can be hard to remove, so a tool like this comes in handy ...czcams.com/video/y0ikqzSz-DQ/video.html
I think he is making the point that I did not need to cut the pipe because I could have just attached a new valve with the compression fitting that was already on the pipe. And he is correct if the leak was coming from the valve and not the fitting, and it might have saved me around 15 minutes of time. But I wasn't sure where the leak was coming from, so I just replace the valve and fitting together.
God Job Tank you
I’ve got copper pipes, would it be the same exact steps? This is for a cold water valve by the vanity
Not exactly. The cutting of the pipe would be the same but you need to get a valve with a different fitting because you can't glue copper. You need to either use a compression fitting or solder it, and I would suggest using a compression fitting unless you've got the equipment and experience to solder copper fittings. Several comments have suggested using something called a Sharkbite fitting, which is similar to a compression fitting, but has teeth that bite onto the outside of the copper (or CPVC) pipe when you tighten it, which gives it more strength to keep it from coming off under pressure. I don't have any experience with those but they seem pretty popular.
Thanks a lot
Does that turn the pvc connected shutoff valve into a compression fitted valve.So if the valve fails in future you can just unscrew it and replace.
I maybe could have done that but I thought it best to replace the whole thing. It's not that much more work and you don't have to worry if the new compression ring mates right with the the existing fitting. I had a compression fitting fail on me at my first house and luckily someone was there to shut off the water or the whole place would have flooded. So I take a conservative approach to all plumbing repairs I make to my house.
Plummers crack lmao!! Thanks for the video and the laugh :D
Hi Lee, thank for your video, it is very helpful. I have a question, if your new valve leaks again and you keep cutting off the PVC pipe, the the pipe becomes too short, then what happens?
Unfortunately, I think you would have to open up the wall, put a coupling on the pipe and extend it back out. You might be able to do it with a small enough hole in the wall that you can cover it up with an escutcheon ring around the pipe.
@@LeeMcNeil Thanks so much Lee for your prompt response, I appreciated it.
@@LeeMcNeil All you have to do is unscrew the vale from the female adapter.
@@joebal9044 Unless the female adapter is where your leak is.
@@LeeMcNeil True, but that rarely happens.
Good video Lee McNeil, one thing I noticed is that you put the Teflon tape on backwards. Other than that looks good to me for my knowledge.
Yes several people have told me that. I had never heard that Teflon tape needs to be put on certain direction. I guess because if you put it on the wrong way, it would be possible for the tape to some how unwrap itself from the threads when you put the threaded fitting on. But I can't imagine how it would be able to unwrap itself like that unless the tape was poorly wrapped or loose.
@@LeeMcNeil yeah it's the same idea as if your wiring a receptacle with the wire twisting clockwise so it doesn't un wrap. I think its a precaution for pipe fittings and your probably fine.
I noticed that too ... we always wrap clockwise to avoid slip at top end . Great tutorial for diy though and save $$$ .
@@LeeMcNeil All professionals know this. It's usually common sense as well
Pipe thread tape is not required on fittings that have a rubber oring/gasket, such as supply lines. Only needed on metal to metal fittings, but I guess it doesn't hurt.
Yes people have commented about the thread tape not being required, but some will then go into a long lecture about how it's going to leak and how I don't know what I am doing - so thanks for not doing that. It's been a year and a half since I made that repair and it's still good, so I am pretty sure it doesn't hurt anything.
@@LeeMcNeil I'm sorry to hear that some people reply that way.
I didn't see those replies and just wanted to put that info out there for those who don't know. This way someone isn't questioning why they don't have thread tape on their valves or conversely go out and buy thread tape they don't need.
Since it hasn't leaked, I'd say you did it right.
Doesn't hurt to use a little pipe tape or dope despite the rubber gaskets than are now coming installed in new supply hoses. Just an extra precaution. Frankly, I use pipe dope.
@@PatrickFDolanI put dope on everything. I know I don't have to but I don't have to wear pants either but I do. Sometimes, I use tape and dope. Belt and suspenders.
Good video! I just had a new dishwasher delivered. Home Depot said they could not install it because I have a weird type of valve on the pipe. I do not know what they are called; however, they are white, plastic, cheap looking, and they have a white disk you press to close. The water pipe is clamped on them, so I will have to put one of these valves on. How much would a plumber charge to do this for a dishwasher?
Around here (Florida to be exact) I would expect to pay around $100 for a plumber to do this.
Great video and thanks for posting. Hope I never have to do this. I'm positive that if I did it this, when I turned the water back on, it would shoot off the pipe into the room and flood my bathroom.
You can do it!
Thanks for sharing this video. Is there a way to do this without cutting pipe each time? If you prime, would that make it much harder to pull the valve off later or is there a common approach to address that?
The valve comes in two pieces, one is the fitting that glues onto the pipe and it connects to the actual valve at a compression fitting. If your existing valve is leaking at valve piece itself, and the fitting is not leaking, you probably could just install the valve half of a new valve to the existing fitting without cutting the pipe. It's worth a shot. And CPVC doesn't need to be primed before you apply the glue, but it doesn't hurt. You will not be able to take off the glued fitting without cutting the pipe, no matter whether you prime it or not.
Thanks so much for the follow up. In my case, the leak is happening where the pipe itself meets the fitting. Confirming - basically there’s no tool pull it out? We already don’t have much pipe left - what would be our options?
@@bch6707 You might be able to pull a little more pipe out of the wall just a bit, but only if the pipe isn't strapped to a stud near where the pipe penetrates the wall (you are basically bending the pipe inside the wall cavity). There isn't a dedicated tool to pull on the pipe, but I think your fingers would work fine for that. You could use a needle nose vise grip to lightly clamp onto the pipe right at the wall after you pull a bit, which will keep the pipe held in place until you get the new valve installed, then release the vise grip when complete. If you can't pull it out from the wall at all, you will probably need to open up the wall just enough for you to cut the valve off, then install a coupling with a short piece of pipe to extend it.
To add to this, I would go ahead and put the new valve onto the existing fitting and see if that stops the leak. It may not, but it's worth a shot because it will save you some work if it does.
Damn I wish I would've seen this a week ago!
Hi Lee, question: can you loosen the nut and turn the valve say 90 degrees to the side if you need room for a bidet adapter?
Yes the valve doesn't have to be pointing up, or any direction. Just make sure you turn off the water and tighten the valve back up before you turn the water on again.
Lee McNeil worked like a charm! Thanks 🙏
AMAZING
QUESTION: is there not a way to remove the valve WITHOUT cutting the plastic pipe???
i want to swap out the compression type valve with a quarter turn ball valve, but the cut pipe may not be long enough.
Yes you could probably reuse the fitting, but only if you determine that your leak isn't coming from the fitting itself.
Teflon tape should have been wrapped in a clockwise direction, same direction as the nut when it is put on. Otherwise it may unravel and not make a proper seal.
Maybe, but it's not leaking. Several people said I didn't even need it at that location, which is probably right.
@@LeeMcNeil Not maybe. It's the wrong way to do this job
Greetings and thanks for the video!
So what happens if I need to cut an old valve off of a pvc that is already too close to the wall??🤷🏾♂️
Well, if your leak is coming from the valve itself, you could try to just attach a new valve to the existing valve fitting (which I probably could have done here to be honest). If you need to replace the whole valve and you don't have enough room to put a pipe cutter on the pipe, you could try a hack saw blade. If your valve is too close to even do that, unfortunately you will have to cut a hole in the wall. If you have a regular drywall wall, it will be pretty easy to patch. But if you have tile on the wall like I do, you will have to carefully remove a few tiles and save them. I would use a an oscillating multi-tool with a diamond blade to dig the grout lines out and try to work the tool behind the tile to pop it off the wall. Then cut the drywall behind it to extend the pipe, patch the drywall, then reinstall and grout the tiles back into place.
@@LeeMcNeil Excellent Reply and feedback!! Thank You Tremendously!!😇🙏
I have a leak from the faucet and top side where it connects the hot and cold water in the bathroom wash basin. Not sure how to get it fixed.
It sounds like your supply line fitting is leaking. It's hard to know without seeing it though.
Thanks for the vid, Those supplies don’t need tape in my area, there’s a seal inside when compressed works very well. when you use tape go clockwise. The rest was perfect ✌️
Just looking through the comments to see if anyone else noticed that he wrapped the tape the wrong way. Other than that he did a great job!
You are correct.
I hired Sellers Tile Co in Wilmington, NC to replace tile in my bathroom. One of the demo guys came running to me "We have a leak!" I followed him into the bathroom. I was not happy #1 I told the owner I would do the plumbing demo via removing the sink, cabinet & toilet). #2 He had cut my copper tubing. #3 I told him that it was a compression fitting, that it should had not been cut. I told the demo guy that the valves didn't need to be removed because I was cutting out a section of the cabinet for the plumbing. The tile company wanted to charge me for their mistake.
It would have been simpler to take the supply lines off the valve than to cut the pipe.
@@LeeMcNeil Lee I agree, my point is that the shutoff didn't need to be removed.
Hi Lee, I have one more question, can I use a compression valve (with copper ferrule) on PVC pipe?
I don't think a standard copper compression fitting designed for copper pipe should be used on CPVC , but from what I understand there are compression fittings made specifically for CPVC pipe. I've also had some people comment about a product called a Shark Bite fitting that looks like it might work. Personally wouldn't use one if I could avoid it. If you do, buy your fittings at a real plumbing supply house as opposed to a big box store. You probably have a better chance of getting advice from someone who knows what they are talking about there. Not that there aren't competent people at Lowe's or Home Depot, but there are a few who aren't.
@@LeeMcNeil Thank you so much Lee for your time.
Good job on the foam spray and how not to caulk around a toilet basin......
The hole around the pipe was way too big to caulk unless I wanted to go out and buy some backer rod, so it got foamed. I probably could shave the extra foam off so the escutcheon covers it completely, except I don't care. And the base of the water closet is caulked perfectly, so I'm not sure where you're trying to go with that nonsense.
Can the sleeve that attaches to the pvc be removed from the valve? I have a valve under the sink and no room to cut and no pvc left, I am thinking of keeping the portion attached to the pvc and screwing on the new valve. If it is one piece then no go.
Yes you can probably do that if your leak isn't at the fitting itself. It's worth a try. If it's still leaking, you can still cut off the fitting, even if it's really close to the wall, then put a coupling and a small (3" or so) pipe extension and put the new valve fitting on the extended pipe.
I'm watching this all the way from the United States Virgin Islands, the WORLD'S PARADISES!!
I have a friend here in Orlando who grew up there. Do you know Alfredo Barrott? He is the kind of guy who seems to know everyone, so there might be a chance that you do too.
I tried this and leaked water downstairs on the neighbor. Got in a fight and was just awarded $27,000 in my lawsuit. Thanks for the unexpected help :)
I'm happy I was able to help.
What should you spray on a valve if it has a green corrosion on it?
That wouldn't cause a leak but if it you want to make it look better you could use a wire brush and some soap and water on it.
!!Good but? Teflon the wrong ?
Teflon the wrong what?
@@LeeMcNeil !WRONG WAY?😂😂😂😂
@@LeeMcNeil The wrong way
We’re did u get that copper cutter like that that small bub ?
I bought it at Lowes. I'm sure they have them at Home Depot also.
Lee McNeil u know something I have learned if you have any kind of plumbing in your house etc. that if you touch one pipe on any plumbing or mainly toilet that u will find another leak u touch something then there’s more leaks lol sucks
I know what you are saying. I think the CPVC piping is a little better in this regard than copper or galvanized piping though. And this piping isn't that old either.
Does cpvc require the purple primer? I thought it didn't....
You know I had never heard of that but apparently it's Ok not to use the primer with CPVC. Thanks for pointing that out.
U do need the purple primer and cleaner that cleans the pipe and helps seal it it does help a lot to prime it before cement inside and out
@@billybob042665 It is the future, because I made this repair 1-1/2 years ago. And news flash, it isn't leaking.
In many states if you don't use the purple primer, you will fail a plumbing inspection.
I just replaced my valve but its still leaking. Same as the old valve, it would slowly keep having water come up and out of the area where it would connect to the water supply line if it was installed. What could cause that problem?
I don't know but it sounds like it isn't glued correctly or the compression fitting isn't tightened up enough.
Just curious why you needed to cut the pipe to replace the valve? Was it glued in or something?
Yes it's CPVC plastic piping so it has to be glued.
an easier and better fix would've been sharkbite or similar fitting. It would eliminate the need for anymore cutting if the valve goes bad.
I had never heard of those so I had to look them up. That is a pretty cool fitting but I still would have had to cut the pipe to put a valve on. But if someone ever had to replace it again, they wouldn't have to cut the pipe. Hopefully it won't be me doing it, but whoever does it would probably cut the pipe anyway because they wouldn't necessarily know that it was a removable fitting. Hell, even if it was me, I would cut it because it will be 15 years from now and I would have forgotten. LOL!
Lee McNeil you’re a fucking idiot!! Just take the old one and put new one! If you had a acorr cut value! I can see cutting the line!
@@LeeMcNeil 'I had never heard of those...'
Idiots like you make videos that can cause more harm than good.
At least do the research!!!
CauseAndEffect and Antoine Dorsey - I've been doing construction for close to 40 years now, and I'm pretty damn sure that I've forgotten more about this stuff than you two jackasses will ever know. If you're both worried about your plumbing business taking a hit because of this video, then I suggest you move to Florida because you can't hardly find a plumber down here.
RUDE! Hey, check out some videos on spelling!
What would be the approximate cost that a plumber would charge for this type of repair?
Probably between $150 and $200, if I had to guess. I have a lot of plumbers who watch this video apparently because they drop a lot of comments, pointing out minor things that they think I did wrong, so maybe one of them will chime in. LOL!
How dry does it have to be ? Mine still dripping . Can I glue it still ?
No. First you should check your shut off valve to make sure it's closed completely. Once you're sure the shutoff is closed, then you need to make sure the pipe is completely dry before gluing it. Try pushing the cut end of the pipe sticking out of the wall downward. That will make whatever water is left in the pipe drain out. Then twist a paper towel up until it's in the shape of a stick and shove it into the pipe and leave it there for a while. If the paper towel becomes completely soaked, then replace it. You don't have to get all the water out of the pipe, just enough to keep it from coming out of the pipe while you are trying to glue it.
Can i replace shut off valve without cut a pvc pipe sir ?
Yes if you have a threaded fitting connecting the valve and the pipe. My valve is a compression fitting glued to the CPVC pipe. You could attempt to just swap it out forward of the compression fitting part of the valve, but you can't replace the compression ring without cutting the pipe, so it might not seal correctly. It's better to just cut the old valve off and put in a new one.
Oh yeah I did not use that cutting thing you used to cut off the valve..-too little cpvc was available to me. I bought a smooth tiny saw along with the sand paper and used those to cut and smooth/clean the area
That works too.
Regardless of a glue or compression fitting, this part will eventually fail over time. You should look into the new sharkbite valves. The "bite" seems to be a better design for high pressure.
A few people have mentioned those fittings but I don't have any experience using them. This joint won't fail over time any faster than the rest of all the other plumbing joints in my house, so it will be fine.
@@LeeMcNeilprobably true. I just like slip on and forget.
@@LeeMcNeiljust make sure the slip valve seats all the way down. Sometimes there's not enough stub out left that make slip valves harder to work with. I might use a traditional valve then because is don't want to push too hard on cpvc. Might cause a crack somewhere behind the wall. You did it right, just differently.
What if the pvc side is too short?
You could put a coupling on the existing stub out, then extend another short piece of pipe to the coupling. You may need to open up the hole in the wall a little to get the coupling on the pipe if the wall opening is tight around the pipe.
Very nice video, the question is, if this one fails, you are running out of CPVC pipe. Any reason why the original valve could not have simply been screwed off? It was likely a CPVC compression fitting.
I wasn't sure exactly where the leak was coming from, but I guess I could've tried that to see if it stopped the joint from leaking. If the pipe is too short then you could cut it as close to the wall as you are able, then throw on a coupler and a short piece of pipe. Otherwise you would have to open up the wall.
This is good if you have a pvc pipe to work with and it sticks way out there giving you a lot of room. What would he do if the pipe was copper and it barely stuck out of he wall and it was the compression fitting that was leaking? Whole other world of a problem.
You are going to have to open up the wall probably. I would solder on an extension to the pipe and then solder on a new valve. Then you will have to repair the hole in the wall but that isn't very difficult. I'm not a fan of compression fittings because I had one fail on me and it wasn't pretty.
@@LeeMcNeil Properly installed compression fittings will not fail
What is that tool that you use to cut the pipe called
I'm not sure. Adjustable screw, rotational or close quarter's pipe cutter would probably be a good description. I don't know if there is an official name for it though.
Did you buy at Lowe's or Home depot
I got that one at Lowe's but they have them at Home Depot also.
That's for copper pipe 💯%🙄👍👍
Great video! Thank you. God bless in Jesus' name.
What can I do when there is not enough pipe to cut
If you have a compression fitting holding the valve onto the pipe, and if that fitting isn't leaking, you should be able to attach a new valve onto the part of the old fitting attached to the pipe. I probably could have done that in my situation, but I had plenty of pipe poking through the wall. If attaching the new valve to the old half of the fitting isn't an option, you will either need to cut the pipe with a tool that can cut it closer to the wall - like a hacksaw blade - or you will have to open up the wall just enough to make the cut so you can put a coupling on the old pipe to extend it further away from the wall.
Would probably have picked shark bite fitting over CPVC fitting. Don't have to mess with primer/cement and no need to wait for fitting to set up (i.e. don't have to leave whole house water shut off for hours).
11:02 Should wrap teflon tape the other way so that when connection is tightened, teflon tape gets wrapped tighter instead of bunching up. To be clear: when looking at threads head on, wrap teflon tape in clockwise manner, not counter-clockwise.
11:28 You mention that the house was re-plumbed with CPVC 17 years prior so I'm assuming braided steel line from shut off to toilet is of similar age. Most braided steel lines like that have rubber/elastomer washers/seals and after that long the ones I've seen have pretty brittle washers/seals. I usually replace.
Not trying to be disresepectful and attempting to offer constructive criticism. Thank you for taking the time to put together this video.
I Would rather use the way he did it to be honest, ive seen many people use sharkbite and after about a year or so it started with a drip or a leak, not saying they don't work but i don't trust them really.
Yes I would not trust them. They are stupidly overpriced and really, what's the advantage of using them anyway? There are a lot of spammer pushing those things in my comments for some reason, and that alone is a great reason not to use them.
@@tmaddock71I've been using sharkbite for years. Never had a problem part any part failure... I like the 1/4 turn valve. I've had one blow off but that was because I didn't seat it properly and it happened as soon as I pressurized it so I quickly sorted it. Thanks.