GMC Yukon Oil Pressure Sensor Replacement - THE EASY WAY!
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2024
- Don't waste your time pulling the manifold or disconnecting lines. You can replace the Oil Sending Unit on a GM Truck or SUV and fix that pesky check engine light and zero oil pressure issue.
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/ @jefflyle
Due to a recent medical issue I couldn't do this myself, but found a GREAT guy local that could. He's done several and he did clue me in about the "screen" that is below this sensor (now deleted and usually the issue) and also suggested, on this part, to use factory AC Delco (which he asked me to supply/ no mark-up). I've wrenched on cars since I was 14, but can't right now. Glad I found a VERY honest and knowledgeable local guy to help me out at a very fair price! I paid the bill and still took him a case of beer to show appreciation! Keep the local guys in mind, folks! There's always a few bad apples, but there are some great people out there, too!
If the screen is clogged, it most likely due to sludge and you have bigger issues than a bad sensor.
The "factory AC Delco" has failed on four of our GM SUVs, so 3 weeks ago I bought new PS508 from O'Reilly.
That was great and true story if your not bleeding your not working, you didn’t change the little filter under it. Which cause lots of low oil pressure symptoms too. 🍀
Thanks for watching Kevin!
GM needs to be slapped for putting the thing back there!
haha you got that right
Amen!!
GM knows what they are doing. They just want you to schedule a service appointment.
😂😂😂😂😂
Bigg Facts 👊🏽👊🏽😂😂😂
"If you ain't bleedin' you ain't workin'", is what I always say as well. My kids learned that phrase in the mid 90's as they had a 72 Ford pickup and other old vehicles. My wife also repeats that phrase whenever I come inside after working on a vehicle or performing home improvement tasks. Not sure where it originated. My dad was a mechanic and I am an engineer and we both say it.
YES... I love it. My dad said it all the time growing up and I say it all the time too!
Thank you for this video. The first time i looked at the location of the sensor, I thought, no way can I access that.
I watched your video, and I thought, there is hope. I have done many very difficult jobs. So I thought I thought, I can do this. I purchased all the parts, sensor, filter, special socket, locktite. I had picks, and swivels. I was still having trouble reaching far enough back to get my hand behind the plastic shroud.
To help, I removed the hood, and also the front wheels. This allowed me to sit the car down on wood blocks. Then I used the wheels to stand on which allowed me to easily reach the back. Disconnecting the plug was another chore. It has a double lock. Had to remove the white lock, then depress the second lock. I did both with long screw drivers. Once the plug was off, removing the sensor was not hard. I had to fish out the screen. A pick did not fit inside the screen. I used a drill bit, attached to a rubber fuel hose. The drill bit easily locked into the filter screen, and lifted it out. The filter was perfectly clean, but since I had a new one I replaced it. Then threading in the new sensor, I taped it to the socked to prevent it falling out.Threading in was slow, but successful.
I had to clear the code before the gauge worked. All is good. The variable 4-6-8 also works again.
Thank you for your video.
Man I'm so glad it all worked out for you! Way to be persistent
My wife has the same rig, and I was able to replace the sender in an hour. Thank you for the tips! What's strange though is that ours was showing 25 PSI with the engine off! The sender was still modulating, but with a significant zero-offset. Anyhow, thanks for the video!
glad you got it fixed and did so quickly! I am not surprised by the symptoms you had (25psi when off, etc.) These things just seem to go haywire when they give out.
Brother! This video helped greatly! I took videos and pics of the removal and install. Definitely tough to do; basically blindfolded. Glad you posted this up.
That's great to hear! glad the video was helpful to you
@@JeffLyle It definitely was. One thing to add that was helpful to me was taking a video with your cellphone camera and light to view what's back there. I was able to see the sensor with the help of the cellphone playback. Also helped me make sure the I was able to get the tab lock on and in place. I also used a pipe to extend the rachet handle so I can break loose the sensor; it was really on there super tight!
@@joesomontan9374 Great advice Joe, thanks for sharing!
It's been awhile since I've done one and I have done it the same way but I always like to watch videos just to jog the memory thanks I'm changing this one because it has a gross oil leak!
Good luck with the fix and thanks for watching. I hope it solves your oil leak problem!
This was great. Thanks for the help. Worked just like you showed. Didn’t take anytime at all.
That's great to hear John! Thanks for the feedback
I thought changing my #8 spark plug was a Biacht ! Now I got this problem with no fancy tools
You aren’t lying about #8. I almost don’t know which is harder, that or the oil sensor.
Is the #8 a pain in the ass? I am doing plugs and wires on my 11'
I bet you can get 1 through 7 done in 20 minutes. Number 8 is gonna cost you a little more time, some bloody knuckles a few bad words.
Hey man just wanna say thanks. My 10' mdl Yukon had a different release for the harness, the type with the removable lock tab. It's tough to get to but totally doable as you have shown without removal of anything other than the plastic intake cover. The only 1 1/8 Deep I had was an impact socket that was a tad too thick so I had to buy the specific sensor socket. Picked up a Lisle at O'Reilly. Also had to again clear cel before it would read. You showing location and an appropriate combo of extensions saved me some time. It no harder than swapping a lawnmower plug aside from location.
Awesome, glad you got it out KC!
@@JeffLyle You forgot to change the filter
@@chicanou-turn5056 thanks for watching. If you've read any of my other comments related to this you'll find that I do not believe the filter needs to be changed in most cases. In fact I proved this when I removed the engine from the vehicle and did a DOD delete before I installed it in my 72 c10. The filter that was in there was perfectly clean. You only need to change the filter if you have sludge in the engine. And if you have sludge you probably have bigger problems too.
The way I do it is to unbolt the rear transmision mount and then lift up on the tail end of the trans. This will rock the engine away from the firewall. It gives you like an extra 3-4 inches to move around.
I love the advice. I am always looking for smarter ways to do things and unbolting the transmission mount is certainly easy to do. Next time this issue pops up, I'll be giving that a go. Thank you Jackson!
@@JeffLyle You are welcome. This makes it super easy to do on the 5.3L. And its a must to do if you have the 6.0 or 6.2L
@@itschase it works some. Just lift enough until the transfer case hit the tunnel hump.
Glad I saw this comment. Going to attempt my 6.2 Yukon tomorrow.
@@6ftmike How did it go, Mike? I hope it went smoothly. Thank you.
Just replaced the oil pressure sensor and the filter beneath it on my 2013 Suburban, 5.3 - same symptoms. Not a particularly easy job. Took a lot of hate and anger to force my big hand in between the heat shield and firewall and get the job done.
Because of the angle and complete lack of space and leverage with my hand, I found it helpful to use a pair of spark plug wire pullers to reach in and disconnect the electrical connector.
Love the advice! I can see spark plug pliers working like a charm to get in there.
Thanks for the tip
On the bright side 5 months later, it seems to have resolved that issue. Key words, "seems to".
And in case I hadn't mentioned it already, thanks Jeff Lyle for the helpful video!
Thanks for being detailed on your video. I have to make this attempt today. Wish me luck.
Good luck Mario! You got this!
@@JeffLyle my new one came with a small screen filter. What is it for?
@@marioaflores04 The filter can be replaced if your old one is clogged up. Since you have a new one, you might as well try to get the old one out. In my experience, the screen is usually only clogged if there are other signs of sludge in the engine though. A tip from one of the other guys here is to use a bolt that is just big enough to thread into the top of the filter to remove the old one. You can also use a pick if you don't mind damaging the old one.
Thank you I have similar problem through your video I was able to solve my problem
Nice. Glad the video was helpful for you!
My 09 Yukon just hit 213,000 and the same thing happened..
Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks for watching... and good luck with your repair!
My 2012 Yukon at 216k is showing the same. Great job and very helpful!
It took an hour to replace. Yup… my hand was crunched and cramped but it was the first time I hugged my engine ❤. There wasn’t a screen in there initially, so I plopped one in (another CZcamsr said to remove screen with a 3/8x6” lag screw). I had to buy the 1 1/16 deep socket and a 3/8 flex ratchet but I had the other ratcheting attachments.
czcams.com/video/YCrylgR-ycE/video.html
Do you remember which tabs the harness had. I’m having a time getting mine off.
Just take the hoses and fuel line off. Makes it way easier for big hands.
Great tip. If I ever have to do this again I would consider that!
I've gone through 3 oil pressure sensors in 5 years on my 2006 yukon. Ug.
some work and some don't... kinda luck of the draw on the aftermarket sensors.
So mine has the connector with the lock and the lock it’s facing the opposite direction of me. It’s difficult, I think I have the lock pulled but I can’t push on the clip hard enough with the direction my hand is in. I’m giving it one more try otherwise taking intake off unfortunately
Don’t give up…. You got this!
My oil pressure sensor failed.. however it didn’t read too low of pressure it read too high of oil pressure at idle it was pegged all the way out at 80psi.. but when I turned the truck off it would go back down to zero then start up and shot all the way up to 80 which is the max reading.
Great point. It is very possible that the sensor an fail and then peg pressure at zero or 80!
By the way the flex socket doesn't affect the torque. Only an offset will affect the torque reading.
thanks for sharing. I wasn't sure about that or not so I looked it up and I believe you are correct!
What about the service tire monitor light? Do a easy vid on that please. Thanks!
Thanks for the suggestion. In my case, the battery in 2 of my Sensors inside valve stems were bad. I bit the bullet and went to a shop like discount tire and had them replace the wheel sensors.
Doing this as we speak. Took every wobble and u-joint i own, but its out. Leaving the screen off as others have suggested. I didnt see a screen in there either though.
Nice work!
@@JeffLyle Update: Job took way , way longer than it should have. I could not get the (insert many, many expletives here) socket to drop down onto the old and new sensor. I felt like doing an endzone dance after I got the new one tightened up, but I was too exhausted after that fight. It was also 105 in the shade, so that was probably a factor. Thanks for the video, I couldn't have done it otherwise.
@@mrnotnomis dang I know how that feels... sounds like you must be in Texas like me... 105 in the shade aint no joke. Glad you got it all worked out!
Thanks you just saved me a lot of time
Glad it was helpful!
Good job keep up the good work!!!
id like to see a picture of the set up you have to pull that sensor off as I'm doing this tomorrow to my 2007 yukon
I don’t have a picture for you but I used a socket, then a universal/swivel, then an extension to the ratchet. Good luck with getting yours fixed! If you come up with any tips, let us know.
Thank you, Jeff for this video. I was able to change the sensor without removing any lines or hoses. My swivel socket was too bulky so I just used a short extension with the 27mm vertically and squeezed in my 3/8 ratchet from above. My sensor wire plug just needed a squeeze against the tab to release. I had to squeeze the tab again because the plug still wouldn't come off completely because it locked again after the initial release. Question though: I reset the P0523 code before turning on the engine but the code is still there. Pressure dial appears to working, giving me a reading above 40 PSI (not maxed out) though. Gauge stayed at zero before replacement. Is there something else I need to do or it working correctly? Thanks again.
awesome! I'm glad the video was helpful and you got your truck fixed!
The socket sizes are an inch and a 16th deep and 27 mm deep O'Reilly's Auto parts sells the socket for $14.50 after tax in Oklahoma and that oil pressure sending unit is a chore make sure to replace the filter screen underneath of your sending unit
Thanks for the video.. what about the filter below it?? Often times that is dirty causing this issue as well
Thanks for watching. In my experience, I've only seen a need to replace (more like clean) the screen if the motor has sludge in it. If you change the oil regularly, I'd bet that the screen is spotless. If you decide to replace/clean the screen at the same time and you are leaving the intake on the truck making it hard to get to, try the tip that one of my other viewers made to extract it. He said to use a fine threaded bolt just big enough to thread into it to grab it and pull it out. Also, check back here and let us know if it was clean or dirty so we get a bigger sample!
I dropped the old one and new one down behind the engine. Any idea on how to get them out? It was zero degrees out and my hands were numb.
If they didn't hit the ground then most likely they are wedged between the transmission and the tunnel. I recommend trying to look down the top of the transmission with a flashlight to see if you can see them. If you can see them, you can try to shape a coat hanger to fit down there and knock them out the side to the ground. Alternatively, you may be able to jack up the front end and climb in from the bottom. From there you should be able to get your hand in between the transmission and the tunnel to fish them out. And lastly if all else fails, just go buy another sensor and try to screw it in. The others will fall out most likely while driving, but if they don't, it is no big deal. There are no connectors or wiring or sensors on top of the transmission that will be hurt by them being wedged in there. Good Luck Nick. Let me know if you are able to find them!
hopefully you are inside now warming your hands by the fire and drinking some coffee. Let me know if you are able to get back out there and find the sensors! Good luck brother!!!
leave it.
@@JeffLyle
@@johnjacob757 haha no kidding
Too late for you, but I tied a length of twine around the new oil sender, to retrieve in case I dropped it (I didn't). But I did drop the old sender, but was able to find and retrieve it using my left hand.
Did you do that standing outside of the truck, or were you crouched in the engine bay
At 6'3", I am a little too big to get all the way in there especially with the hood on. I just use a step stool from the driver's side to get high enough to slide in there on my chest and lean across the engine. I also use some old beach towels or a foam block for some padding.
I sat in my battery tray..
Thank you. This helped me out a lot
You’re welcome... glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the video it really helps
Thanks for watching and glad it was helpful!
Good video😁 what scanner or Diag tool did you use?
thanks for watching! I use a very basic scan tool that i purchased maybe 15 years ago called Elm Scan 5 / OBD Scanner. It is an OBDII port connector that connects to PC through a USB and the software is downloaded online. At the time it was probably $20. I don't think they sell it anymore, but there are thousands of comparable scan tools in the sub $50 range that all do the same thing.
@@JeffLyle thank you
I took a hot red hot knife and melted away a big portion of that sound barrier didn't have to take anything off
I don't know why I never thought of that... this is brilliant. Thanks for sharing that idea!
What should be the cost to replace this I live in Dallas,tx and I'm not sure how much its going to cost? Its a 2013 denali xl 6.2l. I turned on my truck and the oil pressure went all the way up to 80 I recently did an oil change it drives fine no check engine light on. I'm pretty sure its just the oil pressure sensor.
Hello Omar - the part is between $20-$40 depending on where you get it from. If you are looking for someone to replace it for you then you might need to all around. I'd imagine the dealership would charge $300-$400 labor plus another $50+ for the part. You may get lucky and find a shop that will try to do it without removing the manifold and charge you less than $100 labor.
Do you think it would be a oil pressure switch if the oil pressure moves back or forth sometimes it works properly then sometimes it goes to zero
great question. My guess is probably the switch/sending unit. After that, I'd look at the wiring to make sure nothing is damaged causing an intermittent short. if there was previous work done with the intake off or anything else in that area, it is also possible that the harness or the connector may be damaged causing it to sometimes read and sometimes not. But I would bet on a bad sensor first.
Question for you. I have a 2007 Cadillac EXT. It keeps coming up with a "Low Oil Pressure Turn Off Immediately!" I've used a scan tool while this happens going down the road, but no codes are stored and no check engine light. . Engine makes no noise like metal to metal. Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks in advance.
When the message appears, what does the the oil pressure gauge show on the dash? If it shows zero then it is most likely your oil pressure sensor. Also, if the oil pressure gauge normally shows an acceptable range while idling (25-30+) and it shows 40 or so while driving when the message isn't on, then it is most likely your sensor as well.
If you really have low oil pressure, it could be caused by a number of things, like issues with your oil pump, a bad o-ring on the pick up tube, worn bearings, etc. If that is the case, you should have low oil pressure all the time and you will have a very noisy valve train.
I suggest replacing the sensor and inspecting the screen filter first.
@Jeff Lyle Just had the sensor replaced by my mechanic. He also tested the pressure and he said it was good. That fixed the oil pressure issue, but now the "service stabilitrax" light is going off. Any thoughts on this issue? Thanks again for all of your help.
@@robbyparsons1269 In my experience, the first place to look is the the grounds in the electrical system. Make sure the battery negative terminal is clean and connected securely. I usually disconnect the battery and clean the terminal and the cable really good and these annoying electrical gremlins go away. Give that a shot first.
My oil pressure gauge is laying down n I have an oil leak… Do you think the oil pressure sensor/sending unit could be my problem? 03 Yukon. Thanks
If the gauge reads zero but you still have oil pressure, then the sending unit is most likely bad. It is certainly possible that it could be leaking but it is less likely your culprit for the leak. In my experience, the most common places that leak oil on an LS based engine that hasn't been worked on is:
1. Valve covers - you should be able to check around the valve covers pretty easily to see if they leak.
2. Cam sensor - on Gen 3 engines like yours, it is in the back of the valley cover near the oil pressure sending unit. This is a little harder to get to without taking the intake manifold off. I would recommend taking it off if you go that route.
3. Rear main seal - This is a tough job! You either have to drop the transmission or pull the engine to access.
If I am betting, I have my money on number 1 or 2. Let me know what you find when you get in there and good luck.
Yea, unless that plastic pcv line breaks immediately.
Great point. There is nothing worse than breaking something else while fixing another part. Anything that is plastic will get brittle over time on these high mileage engines that see a lot of heat. Fortunately, those hoses are a simple replacement as well and are only about $9. And at least it is still drivable while you are waiting on the part.
What is that software for reading the codes? looks simliler to Forscan, I haven't been able to find a GMC Reader
I bought this scanner about 12-13 years ago for $15. It is called elmscan 5 from obdsoftware.net. It's a basic OBD2 cable and some software that runs on windows. Since there is no fancy proprietary things in the computer of these trucks, any basic $30 amazon OBD2 scanner should work just fine.
What is your max oil pressure after replacing the sensor need know. Thanks
keep in mind this engine has 235k miles on it now with stock internals. I get warm idle oil pressure at about 25PSI and about 40 cruising
Can you tell me the exact size of tools you used? I need to change mine so that my remote start will work again.
the key to the whole thing is the socket. Check the description for the link to the socket... I believe it is a 1 1/16th deep well. The other tools you need are a ratchet with various extensions and universal swivels to reach it.
kenhein2 Hey Jeff, I got a code p0521 and decided to change my oil pressure sensor. Is it normal for my scanner to read 1.7psi with key on engine off? When I start it I do get over 30 psi at idle but when I shut off car, my pressure is at 1.7 I find that odd. Thanks and part is aftermarket.
Don't worry about the 1.7 reading with the engine off... the PSI with it running is much more important. If you think the reading may be off, then I suggest getting a manual gauge to check the pressure with and compare to your scanner that reads the sending unit.
I was trying to find out how you got the connecter of but …..
The connector is tricky to get to since there isn't much room to reach it with the intake manifold in place. With a flash light, you can see the top of the connector through the small cut out in the heat shield in the back of the intake manifold. Getting visual reference will help you understand how to remove it. There is a simple tab on the harness side of the connector that must be pulled back slightly before you can un plug it. Be careful not to bend the tab too much so it doesn't break.
ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE BATTERY. EVEN ON EASY JOBS.
Safety first. Great Point Tweek!!!
did you change the little filter? thats is what gets clogged
No it doesn’t. The screen gets clogged only if you have a poorly maintained engine with sludge in it. The sensor is the problem 99% of the time.
well when you buy a used vehicle off a lot you dont know how it is maintained. Car sales detail makes them look new. I found out mine was probably a farm truck by taking off the fuse panel cover and finding grit in on the base holding fuses. The Chevy with afm also has issues with low oil pressure. The first indicator my engine was having issues was the oil sending unit. Then the cylinder 4 misfire. I ran a quart of transmission oil with every oil change every 2k miles. It took 2 oil changes and my lifter cleared. I don't have the misfire or stabil track issues but the oil sending unit code still pops up and changing the filter will happen soon. Tthe oil sending unit will be fixed too. My son just pull his filter and sensor on his 2013 gmc and the filter was clogged. Good luck on yours
@@mlm7536 Thanks, mine is running great. It now has 237k miles on it and lives in my 72 c-10. I have a whole playlist on my channel that shows me and one of my sons swapping it. I hope you get all the bugs worked on on your truck and you don't find a sludge issue to deal with.
This looks harder than changing that #8 spark plug
haha, yeah it's about the same. Which isn't all that bad considering you save a couple hours by not taking the intake off.
Why not the filter in there to ?
The filter/screen under the sensor only needs to be replaced if the engine has ever had a sludge issue. I proved this to myself when I took the engine complete out and prepared it for a swap into my 72 C10. At that time the engine had 225k miles on it and I did an AFM/DOD delete and removed the screen. It was spotless. Also when deleting the AFM/DOD system, I needed to replace the valley cover to remove the VLOM and block off the oil ports. At that time, I simply threw the screen out since the valley cover did not have provisions for it.
I'm in a weird spot. I have a code P0521 for the oil pressure sensor on a 07 Silverado 1500 Classic, but when the truck is running the oil pressure guage is reading normal like 30-40psi as it should. It does look like it needs an oil change. Do you think that changing the oil may help with the CEL away or should I try to have the code cleared after I change the oil and work from there. The engine sounds normal no weird metal on metal sounds to indicate low oil, it runs and drives great, etc. Nothing seems off at the moment except the CEL and the need of an oil change
That is the DTC for "Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Range/Performance". This means that the voltage range measured by the sensor is intermittently higher or lower than the acceptable range. You should be able to tell when you scan for codes, how many times this has occurred and you should be able to see the oil pressure gauge go really high or really low at random times. If you have noticed the gauge peg at zero or full pressure before, even for a second or two, it will store this code as pending or stored in your computer. The most likely culprit for this is a faulty sensor and I recommend changing it since it is a cheap easy check. If you want to try clearing the code and see how long it takes to come back you can do that as well.
Changing the oil is a good idea in either case but it will not effect the performance of the sensor. If the sensor is going bad, then it will not heal itself. Only way to fix this is to replace the sensor. As others recommend, it is wise to take a look at the screen below the sensor and replace it as well if it is clogged. A clogged screen can cause the sensor to read oil pressure inaccurately as well.
Good luck and let me know how it turns out!
@@JeffLyle I just changed the oil today. The gauge still is reading normally. The engine sounds normal, no knocking, no abnormalities, etc. the gauge doesn’t bounce to 0 or 80 at all. I don’t have a scan tool to clear the code to see if it’ll just stay off. The truck is running like a dream, so what I will do is since I only really drive in town, work, and home are all in the same town. I’m gonna drive it like this and once I get paid as I just had to get the truck, an apartment, etc. I will get the part and swap it out. It seems straightforward enough just gotta wiggle my big hands back there. I’ll keep you posted on results. Thank you for the detailed reply. Helped a lot
@@YexyYT I'm glad the truck is running good... it doesn't sound like there is any mechanical issue causing the light. If you want a free option to clear the code, consider going to autozone or o'riellys and they can clear it for you. Also there are some pretty cheap scan tool options on amazon in the $30 range that will do basic code scanning and reset.
Isnt the screen only on 07 and up?
Yes I believe that is correct. My understanding is that they put the screen in Gen IV applications that used the AFM/DOD system. I eventually, pulled this engine out of the Yukon to swap it in my 72 C10 and I did an AFM/DOD delete. The kit I got from Texas Speed used a non-DOD valley over that wouldn't allow for use of a screen.
What bout the filter under it needs replaced too its probably clogged
The screen gets clogged only if there is a sludge problem. If you change your oil regularly then you won’t have a clogged screen. I proved this when I pulled the engine and swapped it in my 72 C10 a few years ago. I daily drive that truck and the engine has 237k miles on it with zero sludge.
If you drop anything behind there it is tough to get out.
No kidding that’s the truth
@@JeffLyle took me a few days to replace mine but I just got it finished using your method. I accidentally dropped the new sensor which fell further into the engine and that alone took a few hours to dig out. Then putting the electrical connector back on is tough because you don’t know where the 3 prong plugs are aligned.
But in all it beats taking it into the dealership and then charging $700-$800 to replace a sensor because they wanna take apart the engine.
Glad to hear you were able to get it done. Nothing beats saving hundreds and avoiding a trip to the stealership!
@@JeffLylemy hand started bleeding a little and I remembered your comment that “if you aren’t bleeding a little bit then you not working” which is true for this job.
Also I’m gonna use that term… the Stealership cause that’s what they are.
Haha glad I could pass that term on. Also a little blood helps you appreciate the hard work you did to save some big bucks. If you ever have issues with your truck and can’t find the right fix, make sure to reach out to me… I’ve seen it all!
Nothing worse than seeing you oil gauge go to zero.
My RAM read 99 one time. It was the sending unit bad. I guess reading 99 is better than see zero.
no kidding... zero on the oil pressure gauge makes your heart stop for a second. And I was 30 miles from home with my family when it happened. I just kept telling myself that if it is still going, it must just be the sending unit or the gauge.
Hey !! Question .. I have a 2008 Denali with a 6.2 . Every time I get on freeway it dumps oil on rear passenger side can’t find source of leak .. anyone know about this
If the oil is only on the passenger side and in the rear of the motor, I'd start with the valve cover gasket. it could also be the rear main seal. The best way to check is get underneath it and try to trace the oil leak as high as you can see it.
Thank you I’ve replaced gaskets
@@jimmycampbell6675 if it is really difficult to trace you could trying using dye. use some solvent to lean the engine up real good, mix up some dye and throw it in the oil and then use a special light to find it.
Mine had a leak on the oil dipstick tube. Its on the passenger side
@@jameal7506 thanks for sharing the tip!
Is it normal for the oil hand to move when stoping and going just asking
Amber Williams yes it is normal. Depending on age of the engine and how worn seals, bearings, and oil pump may be, it is normal to see pressure at or above about 25psi and it may go as high as 50psi or more under full throttle. You’ll notice higher psi when the engine is cold as well. An LS engine with new bearings and seals and oil pump should idle at around 35psi or more and be around 60psi under full throttle.
How come u didn't replace the screen that comes with it?
two reasons mainly...
first - this engine has zero sludge and the engine was meticulously maintained. sludge and poor maintenance are the primary reasons a screen would clog
second - with the intake in place, the screen is very hard to get to. if the gauge readings were sporadic after replacing the sensor, it might have been an indication that the screen was clogged. but they weren't.
After I did this job, I ended up driving the yukon a little while longer before I decided to pull the engine and transmission and put it in my 72 C-10 (you can see me do this on my channel). The engine still has this replacement sensor in it and it's running strong with 236K miles and counting.
I guess ima have to take matters into my own hands . need ro fix this to pass an inspection to get my new sticker 🤯 and change my oil ..
You got this!
@@JeffLyle thank you got the job done , dad came to rescue mid job and going crazy with 2 kids 😵💫 have a few cuts and scratches, but saved me some money & passed my state inspection 😊
@@denissee_7782 YES... way to go!
For the last two days I can't get the 1 1/16 socket on to the old sensor. Any ideas?
Sorry I am late to reply. Hopefully you've figured it out by now. If so, let us know what you did to resolve it.
It's hard to say without being there and seeing what you're doing. So I have to ask a dumb question first... did you unplug the sensor first? I am assuming you did. If so, can you see anything in the way like the sound insulation shield that may be causing difficulty in getting the socket over the sensor? That is probably the most likely culprit. Don't be afraid to pry that thing back to give yourself some room.
Lastly, I like to put the socket on a swivel and an extension first and then snake it through from the back side. It's a tight squeeze so it's ok if you let a couple of bad words go while trying.
If you bought the oil pressure sensor like the one in description that is your problem. I tried 2 of them and neither fit.
Getting the electrical connector back on is the worst part
no lie... lining up the tab just right :)
Now you just need to get that tire together 😤🤣
No kidding... those tire sensors drive me nuts. I got 2 of them replaced and then like 2 days later another one went out. Thankfully, I was able to talk my wife into letting me pull the engine and transmission out and shoehorn it into my 72 C10. It's still running strong today and I was able to part out the yukon to pay for some of it.
@@JeffLyle oh wow 🤦🏾♂️🙏🏾🙏🏾
To the engineer that put that sensor back their ? Why ?
you got that right brother!
No new filter at the sending unit?
Great question. However, contrary to popular belief, the filter will clog if the low oil pressure is related to horrible maintenance and sludge build up. I recommend changing the filter if and only if you don't know the history of the vehicles maintenance and think there are signs of sludge build up. Also keep in mind that any non-DOD variant of the LS engine does not even use a filter. Check out my other videos of when I pulled this motor from the yukon and tore into it before I swapped it into my 1972 C10. This motor had zero sludge and the filter was spotless when I removed it. I replace the valley cover when I deleted the DOD system and did not use a filter when I put it back together. That truck is still running perfect and I've put 11k miles on it since the swap!
Fellow Lyle here. Maybe we are related? Lol
haha... that's awesome. It isn't the most common name so maybe we are!
You never changed the screen, which is under the sensor,
😂 you must be new here. If screen replacement is necessary you have bigger problems and you’ll know right away since the new sensor won’t read. This engine had zero sludge and I actually proved it when I pulled it from the Yukon and did a few upgrades before swapping it into my 72 C10.
Jeff, how long of an extension did you use? I never got a good look at it.
I used a 1/2” universal along with a 1/2” drive 6” extension. From there I have a 1/2” to 3/8” reducer only because I like using my adjustable length 3/8” ratchet. You can skip that part though and just use a 1/2” drive.
@@JeffLyle Thanks Jeff.
What are all the extensions and sockets needed for this job?
Hey Eric - You will need a 1 1/16 deep socket (there is a link in the description where you can get it on Amazon). You also need a half inch universal joint and a 6" or 12" extension.
6" extension, and a 3/8 universal, and a GM oil socket. @@JeffLyle
If you don't draw blood it ain't mechanicing!
i tell you what!
Isn’t the oil pressure kindof low? Shouldn’t it be more like 40 PSI?
yeah probably, but you have to remember this engine has 213k miles on it when I made this video. It now has 230k miles on it and it lives in my 1972 c10. I figure if it has lived this long and runs fine with idle oil pressure of about 28PSI and about 45PSI while driving, I am not going to tempt fate and let the magic out by swapping bearings or the oil pump.
Makes sense, was just wondering if you could improve the pressure swapping the notorious oil pickup tube oring.
@@clevelandrocksdzd That is a good thought but it didnt change anything in this case. I ended up pulling the motor in my other videos. When I put it in my 72 C10, I put a lower profile oil pan on it and swapped the o-ring at that time. The original o-ring looked perfect even after 200k+ miles surprisingly, and the new o-ring didn't make a difference.
Thanks for the ideas, and thanks for watching. Check out my LS Swaps if you want to see some of the other cool stuff I've done.
@@JeffLyle i believe the real problem is not the oil oring but the oil pump pressure relief getting stuck
@@mikeuva2273 Maybe I should check out the valve now and use it as an excuse to put a Truck Norris cam in there while I am in there ;) Thanks for the feedback Mike... seriously if I am ever back in the engine, I will pull the pump apart and give it a look!
I’m not getting a check engine light but my oil pressure is always sub 20 psi when at hot idle and the engine shakes or rumbles, under load it’s just under 40 psi and works fine. Should I switch this sensor and screen out or would it be the o ring
Chances are your sensor is working fine. If you have recently done anything with your oil pump or pickup tube that required you to mess with the o-ring then it may be a pinched o-ring. But if you haven't that is unlikely the cause as well. Your most likely culprit for low PSI is bearing wear.
I would try thicker oil first to see if it makes a difference. It usually doesn't. and before spending money, you could try shimming the pressure spring in the oil pump. After that, I'd either live with it or sell it. I wouldn't mess with a rebuild with new bearings unless you planned on doing some awesome performance build.
Yea by "feel" . The hell with the specs . When you pull something like this you just want to get it done.
no kidding!
Is this the 6.2 motor?
The engine in my Yukon is the LMG 5.3. However, all of the LS based GM truck engines use a similar oi pressure sending unit.
Hey you forgot to put the other part on .
If you are talking about the filter screen, I made the educated gamble to leave the old one alone. This engine has over 228k miles on it now and I’ve changed the oil every 3-5k miles and never seen any sign of sludge.
Getting the screen out with the manifold on is very difficult. I decided that if the new sensor didn’t work, I’d spend a little more time with it to replace the screen on try number 2. Fortunately I didn’t need too.
@@JeffLyle It's easy to take out with a small bolt that fits in it just right, and also easy to get the new one back on.
@@mpersand Since I did this fix, I ended up pulling the engine to put it in my 72 C-10. At that time I did the AFM/DOD delete and the screen is no longer required. When I pulled the screen, it was spotless... so I guess I got lucky.
I am sure you are correct that the bolt trick is very simple. Others are saying the same thing in the comments. I would encourage everyone to try it if they feel the need to replace it. Thanks for watching and for the advice!
The Engineers that come up with placement of such parts desrves a kick in the crotch.
I often wonder why anyone would ever intentionally design something that involves replaceable parts like a sensor that isn't easily accessible.
You didn’t show how to get the tape off which is the hardest part.
I'm not sure what you're talking about but thanks for watching
Lord I wish i could do this myself..$100.00 for 15-20 min
For $100, you actually got a pretty good deal. The dealership will take the intake off to get to it and charge several hundred in labor.
No shit I got some big ol fucking hands
😂its a blessing and a curse!
@@JeffLyle no kidding more a curse than anything when they just don't fit
Cut that plastic shield with shears or a multi tool now you can see what you are doing
Great tip for others trying this too! Thanks for sharing.
Dang…. You have shop
nah... just a cheap guy that can't afford a car with warranty
SCREEN?
I may need to post a comment at the top about this. A new screen is not a requirement when you know the health and history of the engine. If there is no sludge and the oil has been changed regularly, then the screen will be spotless. I proved this when I removed the engine from the yukon and did a complete DOD delete before I put it in my 72 C10. At that time the engine had 225k miles on it and the screen was pristine. And when you change out the valley cover while doing a DOD delete, the screen gets removed permanently anyway. If the low or zero oil pressure light comes on and is a result of sludge build up, then you will know real quickly when you put the new sensor in and it doesn't work. Lastly, although there are some great tips in the comments on this video as to how to remove the screen with the intake still in place, it is much more difficult than you can imagine if you have never done this before.
General dynamics nsgw
pretty sure it is ngsw... but anyway. Thanks for watching ;)
Gmc need to replace it for free just like recall shit
If you ain't bleeding you ain't working...and if you grab a hammer you probably got the wrong tool
yessir!
Well guess half a job done ?
Are you talking about the filter screen again? Turns out not replacing it was just fine as I suspected. Since I did this video, I’ve driven the truck a ton. Then I decided to pull the engine and swap it in my 72 c10. While I had it out, I deleted the AFM system and checked the screen when I removed it... it looked brand new.
So my advice is to not bother with the filter screen if it’s hard to get out unless you have sludge issues or don’t change your oil regularly.
Thanks for watching John
Absolutely USELESS video. "See it there" Hell no we can't see it! "Put the wrench down there" WHERE?!?!?! Oops, my socket got stuck" So? "I'm bleeding; you should, too" F' this! "OH SHOOT! The engine I just cut off is hot!" No F'ing way! "Good it's in and tight" Like I said, WASTE OF TIME watching this.
Haha you’ll probably take your truck to a dealership to fix it. Thanks for watching though. And I hope you get up and running again. Btw if you make a better video I’d love to see it.
You were grunting and groaning like a little girl, lol. Did you pull the screen filter out underneath the sensor and at least clean it, if not replace it?
haha, I found it always helps to make a lot of noise when getting to those hard to reach places. As far as the screen goes, I take may chances and just leave it. Those things are nearly impossible to remove without removing the intake manifold. The way I figure, if I don't have a good oil pressure reading after just replacing the sensor, then I'll go through the trouble of replacing the screen too. Thanks for watching Bobbie!
@@JeffLyleInstead of using a pick to remove and risk damaging it, which is ok if your replacing it. To remove it just use a smaller diametor long bolt, fine thread, turn it in a few turns and pull it out, easy peezy.
@@bobbiebigg3 great tip! I'll definitely give it a shot next time I have to do this.
@@bobbiebigg3 the screen is only a few bucks, I just picked it out and replaced
Visually saw nothing
It definitely takes a lot of feel to find it. But it’s worth it to not have to pull the intake. Good luck!
what lol you leaveing the trash screen in lol
Absolutely. If the screen is the problem you have bigger issues. I’ve proven that if you regularly change the oil and have no sludge issues the screen will be clean. Thanks for watching.
so they say i can leave it out is this alright and i wasnt hitting at you for the screen being left i just didt know if i can clean it or what ever all i know is my truck runs nice then when it heats up the dinger gos off
@@JeffLyle
No worries! Yes you can leave the screen out. In fact if you ever do a DOD delete and replace the valley cover with one that doesn’t have a VLOM, then there won’t even be a provision for the screen.
You can also clean it if you want to keep it. However most people end up tearing it when they remove it unless they take the intake off to get more room.
See what?
at the very back of the manifold is a sound shield. To get to the sensor you have to reach behind the shield. At the bottom of the shield at the base of the manifold, there is a small cutout in the plastic where you can see through to the sensor. If you have a good flashlight you can see it pretty easy... sorry I didn't do a very good job of showing it in the video though.
@@JeffLyle Okay thanks... I'll give it a shot.
@@josesantiago7624 good luck brother! If you run into to issues, let me know. I have a 5.3 on an engine stand with the intake pulled off so it is easy to see at the moment. I can send you some pictures if that would be more helpful.
Shit can you come fix mines
haha. I hope you got yours fixed. they are a pain to do. Good luck bro
What is your max oil pressure after replacing the sensor need know. Thanks
sorry for the late reply. I still own this engine but it lives in my 1972 C10. It has 237k miles on it today and has the original oil pump and bearings. At hot idle it gets about 23psi. Under throttle it sits at about 37psi. Cold idle is about 35psi.