Honestly that was a great video. Many are able to complete the job without taking out the intake, but for some, we have to go deeper. Easy to follow and the most difficult part was making sure you have the right tools. Getting that fuel line off was tough, but after that smooth sailing. Thank you for sharing! Also, I’ve been told that not all sensor replacements come with the screen / filter. Additional note: if you do chose to take the intake off I highly recommend taking the fuel line off before you loosen the intake housing bolts.
Exactly 2 weeks ago I replaced the oil pressure sender on our 2014 Yukon 6.2; this had the little useless plastic shield back there, but I was finally able to reach around and do the sender R&R without taking the intake manifold off. I watched CZcams videos, most folks do NOT remove the manifold to do this job.
for more room up front take the two bolts off of the trans mount at the rear of trans. Jack up the trans until it hits the trans tunnel. This gives you about an extra 2 inches of clearance by the firewall. I did it this way and didnt have to disconnect anything else to remove the sensor.
There are 2 different designs depending whether it has a vacuum brake booster or uses hydroboost. That plastic plate on the back of the intake makes it impossible (at least in my experience) to remove the sensor with the intake on. If theres no plastic plate then yes, the sensor can be removed without pulling the whole intake. Again, this is just my personal experience. If someone has found a way to do it otherwise then great! Thats the point of making these videos and sharing knowledge with each other. Knowledge is power!
Mine has the plastic plate on back of intake. Pain in the 😖😖😖😖😖... I did manage to remove the sensor without having to remove intake. But i dropped the old sensor back there, and dont want it heating up and melting or something. Plus, taking the sensor off is one thing, but removing the filter and installing a new one is another. Smh. Dont even both with that plastic shield in the way, dang almost wanted to break that thing off... 😂. Good vid my brother. Thanks.
Wes .. u talked me off a ledge good brother … was going over Shenandoah from wv to va and press went to 80 .. can i run my 2009 5.3 until i can get under the hood .. thank u i advance brother … Dennis
For hydro boost on my 2009 you have to almost. I removed the sensor but barely. Dropped old one couldnt reach it back out. No room to remove filter either. There is a big plastic shield that makes tiu not even able to get cell camera back there. Another guy has a great camera cell shot of the harness and touching it, but he does not have the shield thats on the 2009 and up models.
That looked like simply TOO much of work to get to that damn sensor for having a lot of space to work. I see many reach to it with adapter socket and extension form above, without removing manifold etc. What do you think? Then seeing all these pain, what if you don't change the sensor, know only its only a false reading of 0 oil pressure? Yes I know that annoying chime every now and then when it reports the error but seriously, is anything going to get hurt, if you continue driving with a bad sensor?
Sam Sen I have already addressed your first question in previous comments. For your second question you would know pretty quickly if the engine actually doesn’t have oil pressure by the way its running/noises it’s making. Personally I have never seen an oil pump fail on one of these engines - it’s always the sensor. You can drive with the issue no problem, but typically a check engine light will set if the sensor is faulty. This will cause a problem with an emissions inspection, depending where you live if you need to get one or not.
@@skampsautomotive8560 Thanks for the rapid reply. Unfortunately I live in worse inspection nightmare state of CA but fortunately I've just passed for this year so nothing for till two years from now. Problem is temporarily as it shows the normal pressure in between and actually it doesn't turn the "Check Engine" light. Checking with scanner, I see no saved code either. Only annoying sound and zero indication. I really love my trucks but wished industry's love was mutual! especially in terms of ease of approach for work on engine or better quality of parts that are in difficult locations. But I guess that is part of the game to ensure we don't stick to our beloved car for too long! Again thanks for the speedy reply that is a quality of the honest and best YTers.
@@samsen201 That's interesting - usually a code will set when the sensor is faulty. I suppose that's a good thing for you if it doesn't though. I understand your frustration with hard to access components - believe me I deal with it all day long on various engines. Unfortunately there's no way to make every component simple to access. There will always be a give and take aspect depending on the design. I can say that these LS family small block chevy engines are fantastic power plants though, and the engines themselves will run virtually forever under normal driving circumstances. Removing the intake may seem like a lot, but it's really very simple on these engines. If you aren't confident then paying the 2.1 hours of labor to have someone else do it isn't terribly expensive either. Good luck!
I took my 07 Denali to the shop to get mines replaced they said it was stuck and they didn’t want to break it off so they told me to take it to the dealership 😡
The filter is inexpensive and easy to replace once the sensor has been removed, so it's not a bad idea. However, I wouldn't say it's mandatory - Just depends on the condition of the filter. The pressure gauge on this engine is an actual gauge that feeds back actual pressure readings - not just a dummy gauge that stays in one place like a Ford gauge, for example. That being said, you will normally see fluctuation in the oil pressure directly related to engine RPM. On a normal operating engine the gauge will be somewhere around 30-40 psi at light throttle, and may go up to 70-80 psi and anywhere in between at heavy throttle. All of this is normal. If the gauge ever drops completely to zero with the engine running, or sticks completely to max then there is probably an issue with the sensor. If this were the case the computer should throw a check engine light, though. Otherwise your sensor may just be operating normally.
Yes if you have the filter (most after 2007) you will want to remove and replace or at minimum clean if you can remove without damage. This will keep adequate flow to the lifters and sensor. Also, the yellow grommet that was not re-installed in the video will want to be put back on the wire connection prior to plugging back in.
what causes the oil pressure low stop engine to come on in a gmc yukon 2008 after replacing sending unit? We just had the dealer do an oil change and they replaced the oil pressure sending unit. Now it’s back on oil pressure low stop engine
Pick up tube o ring inside the oil pan could be bad or the oil pump itself. If I were to change the o ring I would do the pump too since you would already be in there
i drive a 2005 yukon slt with 270k miles, the last couple of days i have been having an issue, one day it was displaying oil pressure as zero after driving for about 5 miles pressure came up to about 50, then the next day when i turned the key on with the engine off the oil pressure gauge went up to 75 ( gauge only goes to 80 ) when i cranked it and started driving it stayed there it did not increase and it did not decrease when i stopped at a light. Do you think this may be the sensor? thanks skamps.
Honestly that was a great video. Many are able to complete the job without taking out the intake, but for some, we have to go deeper. Easy to follow and the most difficult part was making sure you have the right tools. Getting that fuel line off was tough, but after that smooth sailing. Thank you for sharing! Also, I’ve been told that not all sensor replacements come with the screen / filter. Additional note: if you do chose to take the intake off I highly recommend taking the fuel line off before you loosen the intake housing bolts.
You did not change the filter and didn’t have to remove the intake
Exactly 2 weeks ago I replaced the oil pressure sender on our 2014 Yukon 6.2; this had the little useless plastic shield back there, but I was finally able to reach around and do the sender R&R without taking the intake manifold off. I watched CZcams videos, most folks do NOT remove the manifold to do this job.
for more room up front take the two bolts off of the trans mount at the rear of trans. Jack up the trans until it hits the trans tunnel. This gives you about an extra 2 inches of clearance by the firewall. I did it this way and didnt have to disconnect anything else to remove the sensor.
Thank you for saying this !!!!
U don’t have to take intake off to get job done
All that work and not even check the screen 🧐
There are 2 different designs depending whether it has a vacuum brake booster or uses hydroboost. That plastic plate on the back of the intake makes it impossible (at least in my experience) to remove the sensor with the intake on. If theres no plastic plate then yes, the sensor can be removed without pulling the whole intake. Again, this is just my personal experience. If someone has found a way to do it otherwise then great! Thats the point of making these videos and sharing knowledge with each other. Knowledge is power!
True. Some can't be done with out intake removal. There's no space
Mine has the plastic plate on back of intake. Pain in the 😖😖😖😖😖... I did manage to remove the sensor without having to remove intake. But i dropped the old sensor back there, and dont want it heating up and melting or something. Plus, taking the sensor off is one thing, but removing the filter and installing a new one is another. Smh. Dont even both with that plastic shield in the way, dang almost wanted to break that thing off... 😂. Good vid my brother. Thanks.
27 mm deep worked for me. 5 minutes R&R
On these earlier models you do not have to remove the plenum.
U can use a regular 1 1/6 socket....no need to get a “special” socket for that
Wes .. u talked me off a ledge good brother … was going over Shenandoah from wv to va and press went to 80 .. can i run my 2009 5.3 until i can get under the hood .. thank u i advance brother … Dennis
Super easy!!!
You don't have to take the plenum off to do this
For hydro boost on my 2009 you have to almost. I removed the sensor but barely. Dropped old one couldnt reach it back out. No room to remove filter either. There is a big plastic shield that makes tiu not even able to get cell camera back there.
Another guy has a great camera cell shot of the harness and touching it, but he does not have the shield thats on the 2009 and up models.
Dosen't it have a Fliter inside?
That looked like simply TOO much of work to get to that damn sensor for having a lot of space to work. I see many reach to it with adapter socket and extension form above, without removing manifold etc. What do you think?
Then seeing all these pain, what if you don't change the sensor, know only its only a false reading of 0 oil pressure? Yes I know that annoying chime every now and then when it reports the error but seriously, is anything going to get hurt, if you continue driving with a bad sensor?
Sam Sen I have already addressed your first question in previous comments. For your second question you would know pretty quickly if the engine actually doesn’t have oil pressure by the way its running/noises it’s making. Personally I have never seen an oil pump fail on one of these engines - it’s always the sensor. You can drive with the issue no problem, but typically a check engine light will set if the sensor is faulty. This will cause a problem with an emissions inspection, depending where you live if you need to get one or not.
@@skampsautomotive8560 Thanks for the rapid reply.
Unfortunately I live in worse inspection nightmare state of CA but fortunately I've just passed for this year so nothing for till two years from now.
Problem is temporarily as it shows the normal pressure in between and actually it doesn't turn the "Check Engine" light. Checking with scanner, I see no saved code either. Only annoying sound and zero indication.
I really love my trucks but wished industry's love was mutual! especially in terms of ease of approach for work on engine or better quality of parts that are in difficult locations. But I guess that is part of the game to ensure we don't stick to our beloved car for too long!
Again thanks for the speedy reply that is a quality of the honest and best YTers.
@@samsen201 That's interesting - usually a code will set when the sensor is faulty. I suppose that's a good thing for you if it doesn't though. I understand your frustration with hard to access components - believe me I deal with it all day long on various engines. Unfortunately there's no way to make every component simple to access. There will always be a give and take aspect depending on the design. I can say that these LS family small block chevy engines are fantastic power plants though, and the engines themselves will run virtually forever under normal driving circumstances. Removing the intake may seem like a lot, but it's really very simple on these engines. If you aren't confident then paying the 2.1 hours of labor to have someone else do it isn't terribly expensive either. Good luck!
Idk, i did it without removing intake manifold
I didn’t pull the intake just to change the oil sensor
You also must not of had the hydro boost on 2009 up that has a big shield thats totally blocking any mans hand and arm. 😂
I took my 07 Denali to the shop to get mines replaced they said it was stuck and they didn’t want to break it off so they told me to take it to the dealership 😡
What should I do
Lmao bro you do NOT need to talk half the motor apart to change this sensor 😂😂😂 everyone plz watch other videos
what is the labor cost for this repair ?
Book labor time is 2.1 hours. Multiple that by whatever the shops labor rate is.
@@skampsautomotive8560 why pull all this just for sensor.Im 64 yrs old and have done 5 without all this intake removal🤔🤔🤔
What about the oil pressure sensor filter? Does it need replacing as well? I replaced my sensor but still was fluctuating. Jw. Thanks.
The filter is inexpensive and easy to replace once the sensor has been removed, so it's not a bad idea. However, I wouldn't say it's mandatory - Just depends on the condition of the filter. The pressure gauge on this engine is an actual gauge that feeds back actual pressure readings - not just a dummy gauge that stays in one place like a Ford gauge, for example. That being said, you will normally see fluctuation in the oil pressure directly related to engine RPM. On a normal operating engine the gauge will be somewhere around 30-40 psi at light throttle, and may go up to 70-80 psi and anywhere in between at heavy throttle. All of this is normal. If the gauge ever drops completely to zero with the engine running, or sticks completely to max then there is probably an issue with the sensor. If this were the case the computer should throw a check engine light, though. Otherwise your sensor may just be operating normally.
Yes if you have the filter (most after 2007) you will want to remove and replace or at minimum clean if you can remove without damage. This will keep adequate flow to the lifters and sensor. Also, the yellow grommet that was not re-installed in the video will want to be put back on the wire connection prior to plugging back in.
what causes the oil pressure low stop engine to come on in a gmc yukon 2008 after replacing sending unit?
We just had the dealer do an oil change and they replaced the oil pressure sending unit. Now it’s back on oil pressure low stop engine
Pick up tube o ring inside the oil pan could be bad or the oil pump itself. If I were to change the o ring I would do the pump too since you would already be in there
i drive a 2005 yukon slt with 270k miles, the last couple of days i have been having an issue, one day it was displaying oil pressure as zero after driving for about 5 miles pressure came up to about 50, then the next day when i turned the key on with the engine off the oil pressure gauge went up to 75 ( gauge only goes to 80 ) when i cranked it and started driving it stayed there it did not increase and it did not decrease when i stopped at a light. Do you think this may be the sensor? thanks skamps.
This does indeed sound like the sensor malfunctioning.
@@skampsautomotive8560 Thanks!
@@skampsautomotive8560 yep thats what it was.
Yep just had mine done..whole intake gotta come off...
No it doesn't.
No i know where not to take my vehicle lol