HEMI Exhaust Manifold Leak Repair & Broken Bolt Extraction (Passenger Side)
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- čas přidán 19. 05. 2018
- Do you have the HEMI tick?! I did and then I fixed it. In this video (Part 2) I go in depth on how to fix the HEMI tick. The problem ended up being and exhaust manifold leak due to a broken mounting bolt. This is a very common problem on HEMI engines over many years and models. This is being performed on a 2011 Dodge Ram 1500. What happens in the manifolds warp over time and that warping pops the heads off the studs. This usually happens on the passenger side first. I lucked out and the bolt didn't shear off at the block. The new bolt torque pattern is on the video as well as the exhaust manifold bolt torque specs. If any of your bolts have broken off at the block, I've included a quick tutorial at the end of the video on how to get them out. Total cost for the new material was $120.
Manifold Bolt Set amzn.to/3bKvg0W
Link to the first video covering what the HEMI tick sounds like.
czcams.com/users/edit?o=U&vide...
Tools you will need
-New exhaust manifold, gasket and bolt set
-10MM standard and deep well socket
-13MM Deep well socket
-14MM Standard socket
-Torque Wrench (18 ft lbs)
-Manifold Bolt Set amzn.to/3bKvg0W
Link is an affiliate link, I receive a small commission from these links at no cost to you. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Brother, outstanding video!!! I greatly appreciate you for doing this video. I’ve been sharing it with the guys at the firehouse who drive Rams.
Glad to hear it!
Thank you so very much. We have a Jeep Grand Cherokee with the Hemi and this developed about 3 months ago. Now we know what it is and looking for a repair shop to fix it.
Thanks bro been struggling with that same noise on my hemi durango gonna get that fixed this weekend 👍
Very helpful. I have an 01 with the 5.9 but sounds the same before the repair. Passenger side. This makes me feel better about my diagnosis based on your job
Thanks. Far easier than I'd imagined from other brands. Great Vid!!
THanks!
Only reason I attempted the repair was from this video! Thank you! Was successful! No more tic
Thats awesome. Nice work!!
Awesome video, my 2015 dodge doing the exact same thing and you just saved me tons of money with this video cause this is a easy fix
Nice!!!
Getting ready to do my ‘15, as well. Thank you!
Old video but man this ticking has annoyed me so much. Thank you for the content!! Should be getting this done soon 😅
Thank you for posting this. I have the hemi tick on my 2013 Dodge Ram Express. I have seen other videos and pics but I had no idea where this was located. I will try this evening to see if this fixes it. Much appreciated.
Great Video. Keep them coming.
Thank you this is the exact video I needed , will save me a lot of money and make the job easier 👍🏼
I own a dodge, my first dodge and last dodge I will ever own. I’ve had to do this twice in 3 years. Dodge is such a POS, the motor is great (Hemi), but everything around the motor is 💩 complete garbage. Great video prob the best I’ve seen on CZcams. Thank you!
Lou GC agree with you, I did the same twice in 4 years with my 2017 ram 1500
A ticking sound that eventually goes away when they engine warms up? Or having no upgrades with a ford (for the same price) or having horrible interior quality with a chevy (again for the same price)? . Its literally not a performance issues. Its a personal issue because the sound "annoys you".
It’s because you have torque them again after a month or a couple weeks
Awesome video. You have the patience of Job!
Every time you accelerate in one of these trucks the ball pivot joint, The flange at the end of the exhaust manifold moves, it pivots. American trucks need a flex joint to relieve the stress on the downpipe exhaust manifold Flange. For my truck I welded in flex joints to eliminate the continuous leakage problem and no longer stresses the exhaust manifold and studs to break .
Good idea!
I got a 2019 new style ram and my manifolds were so small... I saw after I picked it back up from having long tubes and a car back installed on it they were layingon the shop floor in the back. It's just crazy how they are so small lol. Now she can breathe!
Great video thanks boss.
Thanks for this video man! Been wondering why the hell my truck ticks when i start it and now I know why and how to fix it awesome!
I was on the same issue. I am so glad its nothing super crazy, and doable without having to pay with my liver.
@@zesar7544 It sucks that this is a known issue and that it falls on us to get it fixed I take care of my truck but to hear this every time I start it up sucks bad.
So just an update my truck fell within the 5 yr 100k powertrain so dealership is fixing that for me i have no plans to upgrade or do anything at the moment so i will take the W and work on big plans later down the road, again great vid very informative hope those of you who are in the same boat get it taken care of because it is super annoying to hear this going on under the hood.
Great video man, I don’t see any broken bolts on mine yet “2014” but I think I’m going to swap them out before it happens.
Right on! Let me know how it goes!
thanks man, big help
When something breaks. It is the perfect time to go with the upgraded parts. Otherwise you just land back where you started.
Spend the extra money and get headers and quality bolts.
What brand do you suggest?
@@kurtsampson4942 Hookers but i run old school Mopar. Bare minimum use ARP bolts.
going to have to do mine ... the ticking is making me crazy !
Man! No joke. I did the other side as well. Video posted on that including how to weld our broken studs
haha now just need to buy a welder and learn how to weld haha
I just make it up.:). I am terrible at er. When you get it all apart if you have questions free to hit me up! The drivers side is 10x worse than the passenger side.
Put aftermarket headers, longtube or shorty. Im going with longtube and exhaust
I have a 2019 RAM Laramie 4x4 and plan on installing stainless steel headers, which I believe will remedy the problem. Let's remember that the iron manifolds expand/contract differently than aluminum heads, leading to the bolts snapping often. Stainless would be similar or close to the same expansion/contraction... is why I plan on replacing the iron manifolds to stainless steel headers that hook up to the original exhaust and not only that it increases horse power.
If I ever replace the cam, I will go with hardened cam lobes and after market cam roller lifters... If I ever need to replace ball joints or tie rods, I will go with after market lifetime versions. It always does better to replace with better parts.
I went with Stainless hearders on my 2013 Ram and it did the same thing.😢ticking is back on the passenger side
Great Video!! I have the same issue and my gas mileage sucks --does the truck run much better and accelerate much better after this repair?
Thanks. Ran better, but didn't notice much in the acceleration.
Thank you for the video!
Drivers side coming soon!
Pretty common. Also common on the 4.7 V8's too.
We had the tick on our 4.7 for 200k miles just never replaced it 😂😂 now it’s starting to happen on our 5.7
Good Job thank you very much for the Video !!
You bet!
@@MechanicLife can I reuse my old Exhaust Manifold with a new gasket?
@@fly7881 You can reuse it, but you would need to take it get resurfaced at a machine shop.
@@MechanicLife Thank you you Brother
@@MechanicLife Good morning my brother do you think I need to take the driver side apart and put new bolts in it I’m not having any problems with it yet?
What actual studs did you used to replace it ?
Best way to do these studs is to weld a washer to the flush broken stud, u can see better to make sure u connect weld between the two then weld a nut to the washer, guaranteed to work better
I have a same problem with my 4.7 Ram i will fix this week !!! It started long time ago , but lately my check engine lights coming back but no mechanic could find a problem !!! So i fund a problem , because the obd reader said bank one lean , so I changed all sensors , but it still coming back !!! So I attached my 5.2 hp vacuum cleaner to the tail pipe and turn on blowing mode and sprayed soap water on the exhaust manifold and started to bubbling !!! I hope guys this helps , before you change any sensors !! You will save money and time !!!
NICE WORK!
Excellent idea on how to check for a leak at the exhaust manifold!
I just bought a 2018 RAM and heard people speak of the tick right after starting. Even the owners manual mentions the tick but said the noise is normal after cold start and during warmup at idle. Owners manual said the tick was from the cam i think.
@@zash008 the cam that’s a whole other problem
Does the collector to manifold have a gasket or is it metal on metal
@@bdanielcal4608 It has a gasket ! But tha was a long time ago .
Have the same problem... that ticking is insane. 2014 5.7
Freakin annoying! You will start to notice how many other dodges have the same noise now;)
Should have went longtube headers or shorty
Going for long tube headers and exhaust for more power mid and top end
I am getting ready to change out my bolts as well. Thanks so much for the informative video. I do have a question I thought you may be able to help me with. Do you need/replace a gasket at the y-pipe/collector joint? I'm seeing a metal and rubber gasket part listed for my 2014 ram 1500 but didn't hear you mention one. Thanks again for the great video, and all the extra time it takes to take, edit and upload it.
You bet! I reused the existing one. It was still in awesome condition. They typically are pretty cheap and since you'll have it apart maybe worth a change. GOOD LUCK!!
@@MechanicLife Thanks for getting back to me. You make it look so easy, and I like your video best regarding the many I've seen here. Is yours a 4x4? How is your repair holding up? Your drivers side video looked much more challenging. I believe I just have a passenger issue right now. I'm reading some leaning towards the resurfacing option (like you tools I dont have) as a better long term fix due to new one running into same problem with broken bolts. And supposedly the old ones having been heat cycled may not continue to or be as prone to warping and the new ones obviously do. Any thoughts on that? As normally I wouldn't think twice about taking your route and putting new manifolds in.
Thanks! Mine is a 4x4 and you are correct that the passenger side was 10x easier to change out than the drivers side.. Resurfacing isn't a bad idea and should work fine. I agree with everyone else that commented about how new manifolds would just warp again down the road. Maybe resurfacing will help fix the warping issue. Good luck with which ever route you go though!
"THANK YOU DODGE" Words of a man who hasn't done the driver's side yet.
I have a video posted on the drivers side...it was a beast to take care of.
may as well throw on some short tube headers. manifolds warp after failing and not a good idea to reuse . cost difference is nominal.... great video keep em coming...
It sucks when those go out. Surprisingly the ones in my intrepid are still factory.
Great vid man. Can you tell me what brand manifold that is and where you got it?
You bet. I purchased a Dorman brand from Autozone.
what bolts and studs do i need for a 2014 ram 1500????
Any reason why u didnt replace with header instead of factory manifold?
You might get the old exhaust manifold flattened. Once the old one warps and gets flattened it should stay flat & straight. The new one warps again as did the old one and you'll be in the same position after a couple of years maybe months again :)
Sounds like ill be posting another video or two;)
Let's hope it doesn't happen again :-P
i was thinking same thing, have surface ground like decking a head. reinstall bam !
Where did you buy your botls & nuts
Is one side harder than the other?? As far as getting each manifold off? Nice video btw
Yes the drivers side is much harder. I have a video up for that side as well.
Thanks for this video!! I know it’s from a year ago but I’m hoping to get answers for a few questions.
1. Where do y’all buy your manifolds from?
2. I have the tick and a rattle, like loose metal. The heat shield seems secure. I can’t figure out where the rattle is coming from?
1. I got them from Autozone
2.Does it go away after the engine heats up?
@@MechanicLife same and mine doesn’t go away after heating it sounds like ametal or plastic is lose on the bottom of the engine I’m guessing pass side manifold
Don’t wanna be a party popper but my tick and rattle lead to replacing Camshaft and lifters 😢
seems logical one might not want to apply Loctite with the replacement bolts do to the possibly of making bolts difficult to remove next time?
Exactly. Not sure why anyone would do that...
Great video! This fix was on the passenger side, correct? Thanks
Yes, this is on the passenger side. It’s the easier side to fix. I have another video up for the drivers side and a separate one on just welding out a broken stud.
Yes, I saw the other video. Thanks, great videos...
Do you know where i can find a replacement of the down pipe bolt and nut set?
Autozone
Cheap bolts for sure had this issue best advice put performance bolts on it
Good idea for sure!
First of all, thank you for creating this video. Everything was clear enough for us to understand.
I have same problem with my 2010 Ram 1500 5.7L and I'm thinking of doing the job myself because mechanic shops want $700-900 for just the passenger side exhaust manifold with one broken bolt. lol
I have a question though........If let's say, I managed to replace the broken bolts, if I changed my exhaust manifold bolts every year or two afterwards, would that help or will it just destroy the holes that the exhaust manifolds get mounted on over time?
Thanks,
I don't think you would need to do it every year as a PM on them. Definitely would be overkill. If you decide to go the every year route just make sure you are using a torque wrench and that will help alleviate blowing out the holes. Glad it was helpful. The change is pretty easy. The passenger side is super easy to do. I did a video for the drivers side as well...took 4X the amount of time because of stuff in the way.
Do you have a link to the cast iron manifold with the gasket you got. Great video, BTW doing this to my 2018 ram with 48k miles.
I bought them at Autozone
great video. I have the exact same problem happening but I was thinking of welding a nut on the end without removing the manifold and replace the stud. I'm wondering if I can get away with it. any advice on that
Which side is it on and how good are you with a welder?
thanks for the reply. I ended up replacing the manifold, gasket and studs on the passenger side and it all went smoothly. while I was working on it I was thinking whether it would make sense to buy the studs that seem to fail for the other side and put them in before the other ones snap
Was going to do the same thing and was a week to slow and ended up having to replace them on the drivers side...which was exponentially harder.
What are the best bolts to replace them with, and will better bolts/studs eliminate the problem from coming back
I used bolts for Dorman. I think that they will still have issues no matter what. If you change to headers you will have better results. The cast heads will always warp.
AKA Head not block lol .. but i understood you. I gotta do mine this weekend :(
:) Dude! As soon as I fixed this side the drivers side did the same thing about two weeks later...no joke. I will be fixing and posting a DIY on that side as well coming up.
You get yours done? How'd it go?
Does the collector to manfold have a gasket
Just one question, is this a kinda better fix? Like will it just warp the new ones after so long, or did they fix it in aftermarket manifolds? Or just better bolts?
The fix is going to have the same results unfortunately. Best bet is to buy aftermarket manifolds.
Where did you purchase your new parts?
I bought them at Autozone. The manifold was $90 and the stud set was &40z. The welder is from Harbor Freight.
Do you have a link to the bolt kit and manifold you used?
Yes check the description for links to the parts used for sale on Amazon.
My 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee sounds just like this. I got an extended warranty that only charges 100 bucks so im letting them deal with it.
Awesome!
Did you check engine light come on from the leak I know this was awhile ago but I’m having the same noise
Nope. It hadn't come on yet.
Question for you. Just bought a 2011 Dodge Ram back in March and have noticed this noise in the recent couple of months. I’ve got a few things that need done one being this, another being new front breaks, and the last being I need to have it undercoated and rust protected as the truck is out of Florida. My question is whether or not this is a must fix immediately kind of issue? I’m weighing out what needs to be done first as winter and snow is approaching. My dad has been driving a 2012 for a couple of years with the same tick. His truck as well as mine also throw on a check engine light for a p456 code for an emissions leak, I wonder if this is why the light is thrown?
I am a fan of fixing right away, but I also get that everything cant be fixed right away. There are a bunch of people who will wait a long time, if at all to replace this. Typically (aside from a CEL) you will notice potentially a little worse fuel economy, the obvious noise minor vibration is the gas pedal.
My biggest concern is always premature failure of the catalytic converter which takes some time to get to that point...
I would take care of the brakes first.
Lukes Garage Thanks. I have a front end break kit ordered already and plan on replacing them myself to save some money, but if the exhaust manifold is worst case scenario and the bolts are into the engine, I’m not sure I’ll be fully equipped to handle that myself as I am not a welder.. hopefully a good mechanic doesn’t charge outrageously for this fix!
Awesome! Breaks are pretty quick and easy. If you get hung up get a hold of me and Ill get you back on track!
Get some different prices on the broken bolts if thats the issue!
Mine has done the same damn thing. Two on opposite sides
Update. Had bolts replaced right after previous comment. Free of charge by dodge. Ever since then have a shudder going up hill and coasting. Now smells like gas in cabin
Hey would the exhaust manifold leak tick faster with acceleration?
I’m up in the air is it’s my lifters/cam or just a gnarly exhaust leak. Thanks for the advice!
I just put a camshaft and lifters on mine before I did,it definitely got louder during acceleration…and before long it started smoking
Thanks for the video. You mean engine head lol
I do;)
What brand of new manifold did you use. Is there a decent aftermarket or did you go stock?
I went stock again.
@@MechanicLife
I went mopar. Rock auto.
Thanks!!
I just had the same thing, but in my case both of the rear bolts broke at 70K, I tried to do the welding nut thing but it did not work, now I can't tap out the bottom hole and the top one I messed up the hole. Now I'm screwed.
Your not screwed yet! I did a video on welding out the bolts here.
czcams.com/video/Gz_cv38xT_I/video.html
If the nut keeps breaking off its because you arent holding your lead on long enough. I tried to tap those dumb bolts as well and had no luck what so ever on them. I spent lots of frustrated time with them on my Dodge for sure...
About how long would you say it takes for this project, doing it pretty much the same way on this video with the bolt broken the same way. Thanks in advance
Passenger side took about 1 hour. Drivers side took about 3-4 because it is a much ore complex removal/install.
@@MechanicLife thank you. Getting manifold this weekend
Awesome!
Is this on all 5.7 liter engines or certain year models?
Solid question...from the emails I have received its most of them on all makes and model vehicles. Surprised this isn't a recall yet.
The reason is because the back two cylinders run hotter than the front one's. Thats why they break.
If my hemi isn't ticking and I don't have any broken bolts. Can I remove bolts one at a time and replace in the order you gave without having to pull the exhaust manifold or gasket as preventative? And do you think the guys are here who have gone with headers have eliminated the bolt problem.
You most certainly can go though and replace the bolts, however the problem lies within the cast iron warping over time which will eventually pop the heads on the bolts. Brand new ones should buy you some time. I think going headers in some cases helps to avoid this problem.
I started to notice my 2015 2500 5.7 had a faint tick which that lasted for about 3 minutes and it progressively got louder during the next 3 days. I started freaking out thinking it was an engine knock, changed the oil hoping the oil filter valve was bad, NOPE still ticked. I been searching for the best answer before taking it in to dealer for a diagnostic. I stumbled upon your vid and checked the part 1 where the sound is identical to mine. I am going to check that manifold today !!!!! curious though when the ticking started how did you come to the conclusion it was the manifold ? Like how did you narrow it down to check the bolts on it ? did you google the hell out of it like it did ? And how did you check it before removing the wheel and plastic shroud ?
I had to remove the plastic to confirm definetivly that it was the case. Once I saw the broken studs I knew what the issue was for sure. Good luck with your truck today!
The ticking on my truck started with about 27k on it. It was always there on a cold start then it would go away after about 5-10 minutes of warming up. That was a pretty solid sign it was the manifold.
Montana Made yip I pulled the tire and the wheel shroud and the broken bolt on the top literally fell into my hands ... so yeah man that’s the issue ... now to fix it lol
Not bad news! Maybe youll get lucky and it was just the head of the bolt...then you wont have to weld and can get it with pliers.
Are the replacement bolts the same as the original bolts or are they an upgraded bolt?
They were upgraded bolts. I am sure they will still pop though...
Do you think getting the exhaust manifold maching back to specs is a bad idea it seems to be a cheaper way to do it but like another person said getting new ones they will warp with time again what do you think is best?
I think both options offer the same outcome potential. If you buy new ones the warranty on them may be work the extra amount you pay for them. Dorman products typically cover the headers for the life of the product. Machining is a great option, but you take material away each time you do it to make it. This changes many things like angles, thread depths of studs, etc...although its at a mm level. I would make sure to ask them how much they had to adjust the material to make it flat so you can be aware of it and adjust if necessary.
Your right thanks for the quick reply ill be doing this project today aswell your video helped alot
Good Luck! Let me know how it turns out or if you have questions.
Thanks will do!
What if you notice the ticking sound. Didn’t fix it and drove the truck for a week until you decided to fix it? Will that be okay?
You can drive it forever without fixing it. If exhaust comes into cab you might want to fix
So you replaced the manifolds also? Do you have a complete parts list for this project?
Manifolds and new studs. Other than that it was just the tools to do the job. The parts were purchased at Autozone.
Where can I take it to get it fixed besides a dealer ship?
Any automotive shop will take it and do it. I would shop around a bit. You can get costs anywhere from $400 to over 1k for the repair.
Did yours throw any engine code? Mine ticks and is throwing P0137. Trying to see if they are related.
That is an O2 code. Mine wasn't throwing it yet, but I am not surprised that yours is. That sensor is downstream of that manifold.
@@montanamade1114 Makes sense that it is reading oxygen due to the leak and throwing code. I guess I am ordering the header and new bolts. Thank you for the video.
Will the exhaust leak cause misfiring? My truck has a bad exhaust leak. And now check engine code comes up cylinder 5 misfire.
Yes! It absolutely can.
$120 vs $1300 the dealership is charging me. Should've looked this video up a couple of hours ago.
Oh man, hate to hear that.
So I have the same issue. Same noise same thing but it doesn’t go away.
I heard it may be a lifter or a broken bolt from the manifold so I don’t know.
Can you help me out
Which side is it on?
Use a 4x36 belt sander and a straight edge to flatten the exhaust manifold.
Not to sound like a jerk but the manifold is bolted to the aluminum head NOT the engine "block".
Would this issue cause a p300 & p303 on a 2010 5.7? I have no other codes but it ticks an drives like a crappy running turbocharger that shakes all over the road when cruising.
This issue shouldn't throw those codes. They happen before the exhaust system. Have you pulled your plugs to look at them?? I bet you will be able to see pretty quick which one is misfiring and be able to tell why from the plug.
So what was done was
Cylinder 3 an the one in front has had -plug changed
-coils changed
- injectors changed
Also new knock, crank, and cam shaft sensors changed. New fuel pump, new air filter. Still no clue as to what is causing this
I'm hoping that's what's wrong with mine and not the lifters in the engine
I wish accessing it was that easy on my Durango
Mine also has 45k miles. Would this be covered under warranty?
Should be
Is this repair lasting or is it worth biting the bullet on some headers
So far its lasting, but I would expect the same result. New headers are a solid fix.
Do you have part #s and where you got the parts?
I bought the kits at Autozone. The kit include the manifold, gasket and two bolts...you have to buy the stud kit separately. The stud kit was $40 and the manifold was $90.
www.autozone.com/collision-body-parts-and-hardware/exhaust-manifold-bolt-spring/dorman-exhaust-manifold-bolt-spring-03309/614801_0_32081
My question is why replace it with a factory replacement ? It will just warp and break bolts again
It looks like he purchased parts that were not from the Dodge dealership. It’s very likely they were not made in the same factory as the original castings resulting in better/different quality. Many forums say that replacing the manifold with new permanently fixed the problem.
Hello what year is your dodge ram i did my passenger side and its a 2015 dodge 1500 hemi
Seeing you put the casket first with the bolt on the very far right side the 2015 don't have one thats y im wondering what year your truck was
@@stephenmcgraw3610 2011
@@stephenmcgraw3610 2011
Must be the same as 2015 u think
My 03 ram 1500 5.7 has an exhaust leak... been like that for 10 years. I kind of don’t want to repair it because it makes the truck a little louder and it sounds really damn good actually. The truck has Gibson exhausts. I may find it and repair it. After all these years I never really payed attention to it I didn’t really care. If it ain’t bad I’ll just leave it but if it needs to be handled I’ll fix it
It doesn't effect the running of the truck and gets quite when warm. Doesn't bother me.
@@edwinblessing9811 correct you can indeed almost not hear it when it’s warm and same with my old 2003. Same deal. Warmed up you hardly hear the manifold leak and the ticking becomes extremely subtle.
I put Gibson manifolds on it connected to the exhausts.
Same sound no more leak of course but gives it a bit louder more aggression to that old boah
@@edwinblessing9811 broken bolt heads I had heat shield broke off on one end flapping on the passenger side.
Small exhaust leaks both sides.
I put Gibson manifolds on it.
🤘🏼🤘🏼🔥
@@edwinblessing9811 it indeed does not effect how the truck runs… depending on how the leak is, if it’s a bad one it will affect how it runs
I have the exhaust manifold leak, will I be ok to make a trip from el paso to Dallas and back ?
How bad is the leak? Typically its fine though.
@@MechanicLife it sounds exactly like your video, it stops ticking after 2 min of cold start, and when I drive around I don't hear anything. This one garage almost made me fall for replacing the lifters
@@MechanicLife he said I had metal pieces in my oil, I took to another shop they recommended me royal purple and said there was nothing wrong with my oil, it was just old
Definitely would check out the manifolds first.;)
I think I found my problem it started when I hit my muffler in reverse, only sound in cold start
Whoops!
If I replace the manifolds with new will this happen again?
Yes if you replace with like for like manifolds. The will warp again and pop the heads off the studs potentially.
How many miles your truck have
At the time of repair it had 42k
Can this cause my truck to throw a P0456 code?
I wouldnt expect it to. That is an EVAP code dealing with your fuel. I would start with your gas cap and make sure that its on tight. Otherwise start looking into potentially a faulty canister vent control valve or purge volumn control valve.
Are there any drips under your vehicle? Could also have a leak in your fuel tank.
What do you think a dealer will charge to do this?
It would be a mixed bag depending on is the studs were broken off in the block and how many. I have heard a mixed bad ranging from $800 - 2k.
@@MechanicLife my warranty is going to cover it I lucked out.
How many miles did you get before it broke?
45k. The only reason I can see that this would have happened so quickly is because the truck every year see temps down to -28 all the way up to 100+ in the summers.
Ok I have a 2014 with 45k. No tick yet. Fingers crossed
2006 Magnum RT, just hit 120k miles, just happened within the last month or two. My '05 Dakota 4.7 had it happen at about 100k.
@@chief2508 if you get a tick don’t worry right away it won’t hurt anything we got ours about 45 and now at 84k haven’t replaced these but might
I just put headers on a 2015
Where did you purchase this kit? You never said.
I bought the kits at Autozone. The kit include the manifold, gasket and two bolts...you have to buy the stud kit separately. The stud kit was $40 and the manifold was $90.
@@montanamade1114 Great!! Thanks so much for the quick response. Great video, I'm planning on tackling the problem on my 2007 Ram. You made it look easy.
Glad that was the case...;) The passenger side is really easy. The drivers side not so much. I put up a video of the other side as well. Good Luck!
If it's a problem on every ram 5.7 why doesn't Chrysler ram step up and make it wright.
No joke! I can’t believe that they haven’t recalled this.
I have the same sound on my engine. I’m actually looking to buy another engine to replace it. Three mechanics have told me it’s a $3500 job telling me it’s the (lyfters, cam )
Anyway my engine has151000 miles. It just started that sound.
Can I get an opinion on this?
Did all of the mechanics say the same diagnosis? Have you looked at the manifold to see if the bolt heads were still there or if there are any loose?
These should really be recalls, it pisses me off on what we pay (in my case 58,000) (2013 Laramie) and then we [pay for their mistakes also. Wait til the heater core goes, 2300 CAD for that then I had air suspension issues 1200 for new bags and 500 when the compressor went. The worst thing for these trucks was when Fiat took over. No longer a reliable.
I took it apart and had the same luck, the screw broke the same,
Should of put shorty stainless headers on,,,the OEM will break again unless you machine flat the original one…
I’d you buy the new manifold from Dodge??
No I bought them from Autozone. They are a Dorman brand.