Exactly! This advice in the video is such a waste of time. If the connection really needs to be perfect than clamp with a chain vise grip a copper piece. And even if the pipe is large diameter then 2 or more chain vise grips together. Ideal for vertical standing pipe. Example above will slide down.
I split my cable into 2 pieces instead of 3, and added a piece of Kevar rope for the 3rd strand of the braid. The kevlar rope means the copper is just there for conductivity, not for structure. I have been using the same one for around 10 years now, and it still works great.
Next time you braid the copper, don't use tape, take a few strands (preference the middle strand and wrap the other end with the wire itself), then add your connection.
Actually for real that's a amazing idea. I'm 16 and I've been watching videos on how to make life easier in that line of work and it's helped me out in class alot. Great videos guys keep up the great work
Just found your channel. It does this old hands heart good seeing our trade represented on social media. 36 yrs in the trade and still going strong! Hell, I don't even use cheaters yet! Be safe out there lads. Much respect.
Those things work great. If you have issues or concerns over them moving you have several options. You can use a variety of clamps to lightly clamp the cable onto your work. Another good option is to take an old bicycle inner tube and just stretch it and tie it in a knot over the cable. Because of the stretching it holds it quite nicely, but just make a simple overlap style knot. Nothing more, or you may waste time while untying it when you are done.
I have an old one made for me years ago by a Mexican friend I helped learn certain weld techniques he braided very nicely one for me I use on alloys. Good for u to share works very well. I have a tweco connection on one end to hook up a lead to n just wrap the one end
Pretty cool. I know I can't braid anything, but I never thought I'd see the day a Marine could braid pretty good. Looks like I got to up my braiding game.
This is a great idea. I made one for s project that was giveing me s pain. I was recycling some industrial grating ( but made of .30” wire ) and did not want to have to grind it clean to get the welds started. The customer wanted the rusty patina and it was hard to ground. I made a woven ground strap, woven it through the grating and it was great ground. I was able To get my arc started and the job turned out perfect! Thanks for the great post. And the great beard!!
@@AldoSchmedack We always used the copper and tinned the ends to keep it from fraying. We used to do a lot of transformer work so this material was easy to come by. but it was durable and made welding odd shapes much easier.
As a pipefitter and welder I’ve used these braids for years, but have always found that they end up getting melted spots in the middle where the wire grounded/soldered to the pipe. This happens all too often on carbon/black pipe. I switched to a grasshopper style ground clamp that can be magnetic or wrap around the pipe if the pipe material is non magnetic(i.e. stainless).
Excellent! I believe this is how some rollout wheels and positioners are grounded. I like the braid better than a spring loaded copper lug personally for positoners
I don’t believe it will help. The concept of wrapping your lead around the workpiece to stop or limit arc blow works because when you are welding the electrons induce a pulsating magnetic field around the wire they flow thru as well as the object the lead is wrapped around. That pulsing magnetic field disrupts the existing magnetic aspects of the piece your are trying to weld in effect canceling out the existing magnetism in the workpiece with polar opposite magnetic fields being generated by the weld current running thru the wrapped lead around the workpiece. By removing the insulation you negate the effect of the conductor being wrapped around the piece and rather have a simple direct connection. Electricity is always going to follow the path of least resistance. It will not flow the length of bare braided wire but rather only to point of first contact with the workpiece. You won’t be generating much of any magnetic field at that spot.
I used the amber colored NO-LOX electrical grease, ( not the gray colored), added to that flat strap braid that 3M Scotch makes, used for grounding exterior junction box cast lids, etc. Very resistant to fraying
This works really well for sanotube. Most other things I prefer an Irwin 27zr chain vise grip with chain extension, it’ll clamp to just about any shape you can throw at it
Great Idea! Could always put those eyelets in a vice upside down and flux them, and fill them with solder and then just squeeze the wire in. I've heard of solder beads with flux in them as well, so you could fill up the cup and then just heat it. Not as important unless you were going to clamp onto those eyelet caps, otherwise you could just solder the ends and save some $$. I'm sure a 1/2" plumbing cap is cheaper than those eyelets. Might need to coat that braid with some sort of anti-corrosion dielectric grease or something and store it in a ziplock / clear plastic bag so you remember where you put it in the copper wrap. I use magnetic clamps for the most part, just got to be careful when you weld near them because the BB's will stick into the side of the aluminum and if there is a flashover, it will weld the grinding dust that has been attracted to the magnet to the bottom between the aluminum and the metal you are welding.
Hey, a couple years ago we couldn't even fathom something like WiFi or bluetooth! Who says one day we wont have wireless super compact welders! Imagine a powerful welding rig the size of a small brulee torch, or a bluetooth speaker with a wireless gun with a small spool of wire on it! I mean, just the other day we launched a spaceship with no buttons and only touch panels like fucking star trek! That same millionaire launched an electric car into goddamn space! Not even that long ago... my mother, couldn't even imagine a car like a Tesla Roadster would exist and now there's one hurtling through outer friggin space. You joke... but you're gonna have that bluetooth welder if you eat healthy and live long enough. Lmao Good luck ;D
Beam clamps, piece of all thread and a tack and boom u have a universal ground, works great for roll out welds. Have used your way shown before as well.
Shane Sawyers well all be at the Goose Island Brewery on Tuesday evening if you can make it. We’re also doing all of the ESAB University classes so you can see us there.
Jason Becker I’ll be at Praxair booth just down the isle, we will catch up if I don’t make it that evening! Sometimes we have group activities after the daily show.
Saw a video a while back where somebody made one of these from the conductor layer out of an old piece of tig hose but I don't think he clamped up the ends for durability
I use a trigger clamp and clamp the clamp to the work, them dewalt ones with the rubber pads. Cool idea tho I may make a small one and try it out, the more options the merrier
Not that I can think of something I weld that I could use this on, but I may have to scrounge around and make one of these to put in my box. I've got some old battery cables floating around, so all I have to do is cut off the insulation and leave the ends in place.I probably won't bother with the braiding, it'll still work if it gets tangled.
Quick question: I'm new to the industry. Just graduated from the tech school in May. I've been applying to any and all weld/fab shops in my area, with no luck. What kind of advice can you give? I'm certified in FCAW and MIG, can also stick weld. I didnt get much training in TIG, so that's my weakest area.
Go in and meet the owners don't just apply online. some shops are union and some are not, if you end up in a union it can be hard to get into non union shops.
Go to all hiring companies and apply there. I would recommend that you try to apply at small local businesses. Also try to work on tig, it will take a while to learn however it will benefit you greatly.
Not a welder or labor expert or anything, but I'd say just make stuff and take loads of photos and try to make an online resume with pictures. These days people like to see your work, and having an online presence applies to literally EVERYTHING including the GD president of the free world. It could hurt and only has a chance of helping. If you do sculptures or auto body work as a hobby, or like making furniture... take pictures. Try to make them look professional, (a cellphone is fine with decent lights .) and trust me, it will go a long way to making you stand out if none of the other people applying for the same job have visual examples of their work. Also, it shows that you enjoy the work, you continue to practice the work and are dedicated to the craft. It says to them that you won't whine about your job, you know what you're doing and you're willing to learn and continue to try to improve your work and take pride in your abilities! Trust me. It'll help. Good luck!
Not to change the subject but to change the subject have y’all ever used the aluminum low temperature braising rods for repairs on cast aluminum I ask this because I have a outdoor lamp post with three lamps and I broke one of the fixtures and I can’t get parts for it . To replace the thing would cost 400 to 500 because there are two and they are close together.
Solder can melt under high current conditions, or cause fatigue cracks from repeated bending. I understand your reasoning, but there's no need with a good crimp.
I have an aluminum table top. the frame below top is metal. I am very limited (financially) with this COVID virus going around. Can I utilize the aluminum table to weld??? I was thinking of drilling thru top and mount some copper screws for grounding would that work??? I would appreciate a response.
@@patricksworkshop6010 I don't think I've ever welded to something WHILE it was spinning but fair enough. I think it'd arc to ground and get stuck/RIP off said ground leads anyway but I've never tried
@@primoshunter it works, i've been doing it for years, rotating 3'' dia drill rods while welding the ends in makes it so easy. also I had a Y shape roller with brass wheels to earth but the did arc on the surface of the wheels so it wouldnt roll for long unless I put pressure on to help contact.
If I’m practicing beads on a 12 inch long 3 inch wide piece of steel can I use the small piece of steel as the ground? Or will I need to locate a better ground? Not much metal in my garage
shit I use to get wire like that from my cousin for free he used to work at a land rover dealer near me and the cars came wires like that from the factory as the computers need power all the time too bad I never thought of this and sold the wires for scrap the wires were rated for 600 amps waaah
Great tip. Now, how do I register for Fabrech? I tried last year, but I’m not in the industry, I’m retired. I couldn’t find a way to complete the registration. Seems weird. I’ve never had that problem with any other industry event.
Lead is less electrically conductive than copper. If you solder the ends on, you're adding resistance to the connection, and impeding current flow. That mechanical connection, done correctly, is plenty strong enough.
You missed the point. They are nothing more than ferrell's to keep it from unraveling thus extending its useful life. Goal is to be productive, soldering an end when it is not necessary just slows a guy down for no benefit.
Even easier way just cut yourself a 2" x 4" piece of 20g sheet(not galv) then clamp that on with a magnet... then clip on the earth lead works a treat, I have one made with a switchable magnet with the lead terminated to it... no earth clamp needed and its especially great for doing car panel work! And yes it doesn't work with non magnetic material, a G clamp works well in this situation.
For over 25 years I used nothing but a chain Vice grips
How well does that slide on a roll-out weld? Limited on pipe size too.
Exactly! This advice in the video is such a waste of time. If the connection really needs to be perfect than clamp with a chain vise grip a copper piece. And even if the pipe is large diameter then 2 or more chain vise grips together. Ideal for vertical standing pipe. Example above will slide down.
That’s a great idea. I have several sets of heavy jumper cables that have been retired. Repurposed copper cable. Thanks
I've made a bunch of those type grounds from old busted tig rigs !
Those work great for stainless pipe !! Leaves no arc marks !!
Super cool idea! New welder here. Retired and my new hobby. Just fun, not a job.
I split my cable into 2 pieces instead of 3, and added a piece of Kevar rope for the 3rd strand of the braid. The kevlar rope means the copper is just there for conductivity, not for structure. I have been using the same one for around 10 years now, and it still works great.
Next time you braid the copper, don't use tape, take a few strands (preference the middle strand and wrap the other end with the wire itself), then add your connection.
He’s a welding legend. Not sure your feedback would be any help when what he did works perfectly fine
Actually for real that's a amazing idea. I'm 16 and I've been watching videos on how to make life easier in that line of work and it's helped me out in class alot. Great videos guys keep up the great work
Bob, Red Beard and Cub are easily the staples of this channel and always will be in m opinion
Clove hitch it! Good idea! Love the braid
Using your beard as a ground, sick man, kudos hahahaha
Haha
Retrieved the TIG torch core out of my Cu scrap pile, looks just like this! Should work well, thanks!
Wow that’s smart thanks.
I used this for years Tigging stainless pipe at the mines.
Just found your channel. It does this old hands heart good seeing our trade represented on social media. 36 yrs in the trade and still going strong! Hell, I don't even use cheaters yet! Be safe out there lads. Much respect.
Those things work great. If you have issues or concerns over them moving you have several options. You can use a variety of clamps to lightly clamp the cable onto your work. Another good option is to take an old bicycle inner tube and just stretch it and tie it in a knot over the cable. Because of the stretching it holds it quite nicely, but just make a simple overlap style knot. Nothing more, or you may waste time while untying it when you are done.
I have an old one made for me years ago by a Mexican friend I helped learn certain weld techniques he braided very nicely one for me I use on alloys. Good for u to share works very well. I have a tweco connection on one end to hook up a lead to n just wrap the one end
Pretty cool. I know I can't braid anything, but I never thought I'd see the day a Marine could braid pretty good. Looks like I got to up my braiding game.
This is a great idea. I made one for s project that was giveing me s pain.
I was recycling some industrial grating ( but made of .30” wire ) and did not want to have to grind it clean to get the welds started.
The customer wanted the rusty patina and it was hard to ground. I made a woven ground strap, woven it through the grating and it was great ground. I was able
To get my arc started and the job turned out perfect!
Thanks for the great post. And the great beard!!
This works really well for stainless, monel, and inconel piping.
We always used 1 inch flat copper braid with tinned ends ,rolls up or lays flat in the tool box.
electricman5010 Where do you get the tinned braid at?
McMaster-Carr carries it . If you do an internet search im willing to bet its everywhere ,probably even Amazon. Companies like Allied cable
@@AldoSchmedack We always used the copper and tinned the ends to keep it from fraying. We used to do a lot of transformer work so this material was easy to come by. but it was durable and made welding odd shapes much easier.
@@electricman5010 Just did that to mine! TY
As a pipefitter and welder I’ve used these braids for years, but have always found that they end up getting melted spots in the middle where the wire grounded/soldered to the pipe. This happens all too often on carbon/black pipe. I switched to a grasshopper style ground clamp that can be magnetic or wrap around the pipe if the pipe material is non magnetic(i.e. stainless).
Been doing this for a few years now never lets you down 👍
What happened to Bob Moffet? Did he retire? Great videos regardless, always looking forward to the videos.
That an old roller set of roller blades and d.o.m tube is how I weld up my steering and links for my jeep builds
Excellent! I believe this is how some rollout wheels and positioners are grounded. I like the braid better than a spring loaded copper lug personally for positoners
1st off, that braided copper wire is very similar to the color of your beard, simply interesting! 2nd, That's an awesome job well done!
The way you guys do teases/ plugs is super natural
Weldingtipsandtricks showed this YEARS ago
Long live Weldingtipsandtricks ! ! ! 👍
I've been wanting one of those for a while
Gonna try this to see if it stops or helps with arc blow ie, wrap it around the joint to be welded
Tom Walsh now THERE is a neat idea!
I don’t believe it will help. The concept of wrapping your lead around the workpiece to stop or limit arc blow works because when you are welding the electrons induce a pulsating magnetic field around the wire they flow thru as well as the object the lead is wrapped around. That pulsing magnetic field disrupts the existing magnetic aspects of the piece your are trying to weld in effect canceling out the existing magnetism in the workpiece with polar opposite magnetic fields being generated by the weld current running thru the wrapped lead around the workpiece. By removing the insulation you negate the effect of the conductor being wrapped around the piece and rather have a simple direct connection. Electricity is always going to follow the path of least resistance. It will not flow the length of bare braided wire but rather only to point of first contact with the workpiece. You won’t be generating much of any magnetic field at that spot.
I used the amber colored NO-LOX electrical grease, ( not the gray colored), added to that flat strap braid that 3M Scotch makes, used for grounding exterior junction box cast lids, etc. Very resistant to fraying
This works really well for sanotube. Most other things I prefer an Irwin 27zr chain vise grip with chain extension, it’ll clamp to just about any shape you can throw at it
Great Idea! Could always put those eyelets in a vice upside down and flux them, and fill them with solder and then just squeeze the wire in. I've heard of solder beads with flux in them as well, so you could fill up the cup and then just heat it. Not as important unless you were going to clamp onto those eyelet caps, otherwise you could just solder the ends and save some $$. I'm sure a 1/2" plumbing cap is cheaper than those eyelets. Might need to coat that braid with some sort of anti-corrosion dielectric grease or something and store it in a ziplock / clear plastic bag so you remember where you put it in the copper wrap. I use magnetic clamps for the most part, just got to be careful when you weld near them because the BB's will stick into the side of the aluminum and if there is a flashover, it will weld the grinding dust that has been attracted to the magnet to the bottom between the aluminum and the metal you are welding.
Good tip! Dual purpose!
You can buy copper braided strap with the ends already on them if you don't have extra cable lying around. Good idea! Thanks
Cool jig. There is a great place to get copper from old broken TIG tourch power cable
Love this! Thanks Red Beard! So simple yet effective!
I used to do this when I was building custom roll cages for derby cars
Great Hack Happy New Year
I see you use the Bluetooth wireless work clamp. Been wanting one.
Lextech Lighting Bluetooth is old technology. This one has its own WiFi.
Hey, a couple years ago we couldn't even fathom something like WiFi or bluetooth!
Who says one day we wont have wireless super compact welders!
Imagine a powerful welding rig the size of a small brulee torch, or a bluetooth speaker with a wireless gun with a small spool of wire on it!
I mean, just the other day we launched a spaceship with no buttons and only touch panels like fucking star trek! That same millionaire launched an electric car into goddamn space!
Not even that long ago... my mother, couldn't even imagine a car like a Tesla Roadster would exist and now there's one hurtling through outer friggin space.
You joke... but you're gonna have that bluetooth welder if you eat healthy and live long enough. Lmao
Good luck ;D
Yep. I saw guys do this in a manufacturing plant welding sanitary pipe.
Awesome tip. Thanks for sharing
Really wished I'd thought of braiding... It wouldn't be the mess it is now. Great tip...now to go make a new one.
Wrap you lead around the pipe and use clamp 2 nip the lead nice and tight earth clamp will be touching pipe and away u go
Beam clamps, piece of all thread and a tack and boom u have a universal ground, works great for roll out welds. Have used your way shown before as well.
Hopefully I can come hang out- I’m working the show also! Met Bob a few years back, sure would enjoy meeting you! Cheers
Shane Sawyers well all be at the Goose Island Brewery on Tuesday evening if you can make it. We’re also doing all of the ESAB University classes so you can see us there.
Jason Becker I’ll be at Praxair booth just down the isle, we will catch up if I don’t make it that evening! Sometimes we have group activities after the daily show.
Never figured I'd learn how to braid from a welding channel :-(
Excellent idea. Greetings from city Madero Tamaulipas Mexico
Excellent idea! I am going to give it a try. Thanks
Saw a video a while back where somebody made one of these from the conductor layer out of an old piece of tig hose but I don't think he clamped up the ends for durability
Thanks bro about to make one right now!! but the question is where is Bob at🧐🤔🤔
Thank you for the wonderful idea, Bearded Weldsman!
This dude has more time dipping into the nozzle gel than I have fixing the bird nests in my machine. Thanks for the tips. I'm all ears.
I've got get myself a copper braid for my everlast welder. Sure would make clamping to irregular items quickly and easily.
I am going to make one them, thanks!
like the braided thing making one asap. thx for sharing man. take care. peter
Back home they use big hook looks like fishing hook to hang over the work piece. No clamp required at all
Excellent tip!!!!
Stopped by and saw you guys at fab tech.
Thanks for coming by
I use a trigger clamp and clamp the clamp to the work, them dewalt ones with the rubber pads. Cool idea tho I may make a small one and try it out, the more options the merrier
Not that I can think of something I weld that I could use this on, but I may have to scrounge around and make one of these to put in my box. I've got some old battery cables floating around, so all I have to do is cut off the insulation and leave the ends in place.I probably won't bother with the braiding, it'll still work if it gets tangled.
yea ... the easy way to make that
Saves barrings on line shafts as well
Quick question:
I'm new to the industry. Just graduated from the tech school in May. I've been applying to any and all weld/fab shops in my area, with no luck. What kind of advice can you give? I'm certified in FCAW and MIG, can also stick weld. I didnt get much training in TIG, so that's my weakest area.
Go in and meet the owners don't just apply online.
some shops are union and some are not, if you end up in a union it can be hard to get into non union shops.
Go to all hiring companies and apply there. I would recommend that you try to apply at small local businesses. Also try to work on tig, it will take a while to learn however it will benefit you greatly.
Not a welder or labor expert or anything, but I'd say just make stuff and take loads of photos and try to make an online resume with pictures.
These days people like to see your work, and having an online presence applies to literally EVERYTHING including the GD president of the free world.
It could hurt and only has a chance of helping. If you do sculptures or auto body work as a hobby, or like making furniture... take pictures. Try to make them look professional, (a cellphone is fine with decent lights .) and trust me, it will go a long way to making you stand out if none of the other people applying for the same job have visual examples of their work. Also, it shows that you enjoy the work, you continue to practice the work and are dedicated to the craft. It says to them that you won't whine about your job, you know what you're doing and you're willing to learn and continue to try to improve your work and take pride in your abilities!
Trust me. It'll help.
Good luck!
An ironworker showed me to attach your work leads to a vise grove C clamp. You can attach that to anything if you don’t have copper laying around
Sooo wanted to go to fabtech this year but unfortunately life has not allowed it to happen next ti.e in Chicago I will be there
Love it!
i have just used some vise grip clamp
Sometimes rubbing the stuff together works too. Removes oxide scales so that bare metal touches bare metal
How would you weld a tab to clamp the ground clamp to if there's nowhere to clamp the ground clamp to to weld the tab? 😝😆
Cool ideal. Love it!
Great idea! Thanks
You have daughters? That was a nice braid! Looks like you've done it before. :-)
Be well,
Don
That was my question - is that a dad skill or an epic beard skill, lol.
Super SLo both 😂
Don Abele I have 1 that’s enough 😂
@@GodslilRedneck23 I have two - that's how I knew!!!! Mad Dad skills!!!!
Cool trick
Chain grip works fine too lol
good idea i guess ... kinda overkill being so long, but works.. i have a magnetic one
Awesome tip.
I grew up with 4 sisters.............
I'm the king of braiding!
Not to change the subject but to change the subject have y’all ever used the aluminum low temperature braising rods for repairs on cast aluminum I ask this because I have a outdoor lamp post with three lamps and I broke one of the fixtures and I can’t get parts for it . To replace the thing would cost 400 to 500 because there are two and they are close together.
thank you for your're sevice
very creative. Couldnt you just brush paint off a corner magnet, stick it to the work piece and then clamp your ground to the magnet?
Dam you can braid well braid that beard dude
Very clever. Personally I tend to solder my lugs onto cables. I know it's probably going overboard, but that's just the way I am sometimes.:)
Solder can melt under high current conditions, or cause fatigue cracks from repeated bending. I understand your reasoning, but there's no need with a good crimp.
Good one
Great idea, however it would be much better to get tin plated copper wire as the conductivity of the bare copper will diminish as it begins oxidizing.
Does it have to be that thick of copper?
No.
Weld.com thank you. Shout out to Bob!
I just put a vise grip or a hook just ground to that
In stead of using tape you could use 14ga. copper wire.
The tape comes off
I have an aluminum table top. the frame below top is metal. I am very limited (financially) with this COVID virus going around. Can I utilize the aluminum table to weld??? I was thinking of drilling thru top and mount some copper screws for grounding would that work??? I would appreciate a response.
Copper lugs my friend! ;)
would that work on the shaft of my lathe while tig welding? i guess it would keep the current from going thru the geartrain.
Carl White I don’t see why not. Wrap it the opposite way your lathe is turning and it will unravel as you weld.
Yes it will work. Recommend disconnecting the lathe mains before welding though.
“Kinda like cleaning a snake” as a fellow Canadian I have never “cleaned a snake”
Seems like an overcomplicated solution to a simple problem
primoshunter if you need to ground to something that’s spinning I think this would work better than a lot of thing I’ve seen people do
@@patricksworkshop6010 I don't think I've ever welded to something WHILE it was spinning but fair enough. I think it'd arc to ground and get stuck/RIP off said ground leads anyway but I've never tried
@@primoshunter it works, i've been doing it for years, rotating 3'' dia drill rods while welding the ends in makes it so easy. also I had a Y shape roller with brass wheels to earth but the did arc on the surface of the wheels so it wouldnt roll for long unless I put pressure on to help contact.
What settings and technique would you use with hard surfacing rod?
If I’m practicing beads on a 12 inch long 3 inch wide piece of steel can I use the small piece of steel as the ground? Or will I need to locate a better ground? Not much metal in my garage
3G MIG welding test plate with backing for next video?
shit I use to get wire like that from my cousin for free he used to work at a land rover dealer near me and the cars came wires like that from the factory as the computers need power all the time too bad I never thought of this and sold the wires for scrap the wires were rated for 600 amps waaah
Great tip. Now, how do I register for Fabrech? I tried last year, but I’m not in the industry, I’m retired. I couldn’t find a way to complete the registration. Seems weird. I’ve never had that problem with any other industry event.
Other countries they make like fishing 🪝 hook as a ground so they only throw it on anything they weld . No problems
I’ve seen wire soldered into the eyelet for car audio, is that not recommended for welding situations? I know things can get pretty hot
Great tip- I would suggest soldering those eyes on though.
Lead is less electrically conductive than copper. If you solder the ends on, you're adding resistance to the connection, and impeding current flow. That mechanical connection, done correctly, is plenty strong enough.
You missed the point. They are nothing more than ferrell's to keep it from unraveling thus extending its useful life. Goal is to be productive, soldering an end when it is not necessary just slows a guy down for no benefit.
Even easier way just cut yourself a 2" x 4" piece of 20g sheet(not galv) then clamp that on with a magnet... then clip on the earth lead works a treat, I have one made with a switchable magnet with the lead terminated to it... no earth clamp needed and its especially great for doing car panel work!
And yes it doesn't work with non magnetic material, a G clamp works well in this situation.
So magnet grounds are out of the question then?