Why New Cars SUCK (Ford Fusion STUCK in PARK?! - Part 1)
Vložit
- čas přidán 10. 02. 2023
- Here is a perfect example of why sometimes "modern technology" SUCKS hardcore.
This 2017 Ford Fusion is a BEACHED WHALE at 80k miles.
Starts and runs great...but can't move...it's STUCK IN PARK!
Weird thing is, NO DTCS are set!!! What the heck?!
This turns out to be a very frustrating diagnosis due to poor system design and no helpful service info. Unfortunately that means the expensive PARTS CANNON has to be used :(
THINKTOOL PROS: *****$250 OFF!! USE CODE "vanpros23" at CHECKOUT!!***
www.amazon.com/dp/B08SWH2KP4?...
Enjoy!
Ivan - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I think the code for the driver door status is your smoking gun. I believe the car keeps activating its anti-rollaway feature, which automatically shifts to park when the driver door is opened and the seat belt is unfastened. If the door status is unknown, it relies on the seatbelt status, and since you don't have it buckled during diagnosis, that may be why it's stuck in park. I wonder if it would allow you to shift if you buckled it. Also, I am like 99% sure the shift lock override only allows you to shift to neutral, not to drive.
I don't mind electronic shifters. In my experience they're not unreliable and although this Ford is a poor example, many of them do free up a ton of space. The Prius has been using an electronic shifter and electric parking pawl actuator since 2004 and those have always been robust. Just like everything else on modern cars, it's just a new way to diagnose and repair things. That doesn't mean it's difficult to understand. Just different.
Oh I tried every combination of door latch/lock, seatbelt, brake pedal you name it lol
As a European I'm a bit flabbergasted by all of the "safety" (meaning lawsuit prevention) interlocks that are required on American models. The only thing they do is make the cars work less reliably and annoy drivers because they never work when you want them to, but they always work when you don't want them to.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Does it shows door locked at any of this points? Can you look on data pid to the door ajar? How it behaves when you opening closing door.
Just a new way to diagnose and repair things. Tell that to a person that has a bill of 2599$. No big dealership is and will be honest. They need to fill those bays.
Pressure switch in the seat? There is one for the air bag on the passenger side.
The way the motor is moving the cable during the adjustment really sounds a lot like a stripped actuator gear. I worked on an Astra 1.6 with a manumatic gearbox which had a similar actuator on the clutch cable, and it could not shift anymore because those plastic gears are prone to stripping. They're basically the same actuator motors you will find in the power windows.
I would expect the cable to cycle all the way back and forth during the adjustment mode.
I'm curious about the driver door correlation fault code. Some of these cars have the annoying "safety" feature of auto shifting into park whenever the driver door is opened. Would be worth a shot performing a possible correlation learn? And see what happens?
But yes I agree, this does seem like an input and or logic issue.
Looking forward to part 2! Thanks Ivan!
I agree, I think it's a safety feature.
Very perplexing with the amount of interconnectivity all the modules have... When 3 different modules can command a function off for their own reasons.
As someone who owns 2 Ford Fusions, I can confirm the knob will turn itself back to park when you open the door. I think it also does it under other conditions too. Like if you turn off the ignition and leave it in drive.
@@freak3dot There are situations, where you might want to open the door a bit to, say, navigate in reverse through a tight spot. I guess you're not doing that in the Fusion Nanny Edition. 🤔
@@camberwellcarrot420 My daily driver is a 2016. The last year they had the actual shifter instead of a knob.
I know some people mod them with FORScan to dip their mirrors in reverse. It's a difficult mod, but another potential solution to that problem.
@@camberwellcarrot420 Cant do that, in some cars.
Looks overly complicated, using technology for the sake of it looking cool. Those designers should be smacked. Thanks for taking us along, Ivan.
I think it's emerging tech. Moving toward autonomous operation.
Remember a star trek actor was killed when his jeep with a similar weird shift arrangement rolled into him up against his driveway gate.these car makers have no care for people's safety or satisfaction.
Yes !! It's redculisus and stupid 💩
@@pl5624 I agree but disagree. If the people would quit insisting on having all this technology and quit buying the sh*t, they would have to do something else. TBH, not buying anything newer than 2006 is the best move.
@@billmonroe8826 nobody asked for it...and the feds should regulate it.remember chrysler dropping pushbuttons for 65 because they thought regulation was coming...it wasn't.
Oh dear Lord, this episode just increased my blood pressure ! Good luck Ivan, I'm confident that you will solve the issue... looking forward to the next part !
Same here. Interested in what's causing this
This is why late 80s to early 00's cars are the sweet spot for having just enough technology to be reliable but not so much as to be overly complicated. Unfortunately, these complex new cars are more profitable for the auto manufacturers because of their inherent planned obsolescence.
That's definitely the sweet spot :)
Have an 89 Dakota bought used with bad wheel brg at 131k, just turned 270k and finally had to put starter and water pump in.
Salt has killed body but I found a 88 Dakota one owner survivor w/89k paid too much (according to others) but the only tech is TBI. Pretty simple.
97-99 Jeep. Has the newer interior, doesn't have coil packs or the emissions crap. 4.0.
Nothing but win there.
@@litz13 99 is the best year of all time with the horse shoe intake and thrust plate cam.
@@v12alpine 👍
At 7:06 in, when you are going to perform the self test, you pause but don't read the info fully. The 3rd line is ignored, * ALL DOORS LOCKED ! The doors were opened and closed, but the locks were never engaged. Also, later on at 25:57, you even read out loud (but don't hear yourself), Open then close driver's door AND CYCLE THE DOOR LOCKS. It is easy to skip things if you are trying to go fast! Good luck, and hope this helps to add data points for your troubleshooting.
9:53 I’m 10 minutes in and I think the door position sensor input portion of the process is preventing the shift module from allowing a shift. On my BMW it will,shift back into park if doors are open and put in drive or reverse. I’m guessing some similar issue from the early data here.
That's the direction that I keep leaning towards. Go after that door code that's set and see if that has any effect. Worthless design.
The data pid for drivers door showed it was open and closed properly. So unlikely that’s the issue. With the code also not being in service info, that code could be a rabbit hole. This could simply be a good old shift interlock solenoid problem that it’s just not coding for. Ivan hasn’t looked at the schematic for the shift interlock input yet. Interesting to see what happens next! 🙂
@@jeremyah78 after watching more, I agree. I think the inputs are the issue, just not the doors. Going to be interesting to see how it plays out. Ivan is the GOAT man, so good at his process.
@@htownblue11 Ivan is one of the very best!
My next step would to be to jumper the door open switch to manually send door closed signal to module and see if that effects the shifting. Then research and discover what inputs must be present to allow shift. Down the rabbit hole we go.
I've seen a few dodge vehicles will not let you shift from park unless you close the door. So maybe the door driver door module is suspect.
This is why I love my plain old 6 speed manual, automatics have become to complicated. Excellent informative video as always Ivan. 👍
They've always been complicated. Back before electronics got strapped to them, it pretty much had its own computer made entirely of hydraulics, with no codes to point you toward what to look at. Just a big maze of channels, check balls, and servos.
Correct
I belive this code regarding the door switch is where I would head. It's likely a switch within the latch assembly.
At the shop, 2 of the 3 location plates for the hoists are worn and it's difficult to tell whether you've 'landed' or not. I'll open the door to have a peak and many Euro cars will select park...some others aswell but not common. I haven't looked at a diagram for this input but suggest you do. Can't wait for the fix.
As usual great content Ivan!!
Ivan, I want to thank you for helping to step up my Diagnostics, I have been wrenching for 34 years and still have so much to learn. Your methods and style of approach are pure Gold and I have been spending my time (while recovering from Carpal Tunnel surgery) mining it! You have a great attitude and deserve the highest appraise, keep up the good work sir!
Watched hours ago, Have been thinking about it. I agree with Ian's comment. I would go for the door first. Never thought about the seatbelt but it all makes sense.
See this is why I call you the teacher. You present a problem and want to see who comes up with a logical solution. Thank you for making me think.
I will keep my 03 Camry alive for as much as I can , these modern ⛱️ 🐋 aren't worth nothing but headaches 🤣😂
Great job Ivan 👌
I ran into the same problem with my wife 17 fusion last year and it was the transmission shift actuator . the one that pulls on the shift cable and just did one on a friend's car also a fusion a few weeks ago seems to be a common problem with them .I took apart and the 1 of the 2 brushed motors burned out in the actuator is what caused it to failed in my wife fusion.
How much is a repair like this ?
I have to think about it some more, but I think my next step is to find out what's going on with the door code. There's a good chance it's playing a part in this. It may be designed to not allow shifting (or automatically go into park) with the door open.
The terrible irony is that these electronic systems don't actually cut down on mechanical parts, space, weight, etc. They add motors that still drive cables and operate mechanical systems for the transmission. Are people so weak now that they can't open and close hatches/trunks, move a shift lever, etc? The Toyota 4Runner has seen a huge surge in sales in the last few years because it's one of the least complex vehicles sold. Seems a lot of people want things that last. But that means they don't buy a new car every three years, which is bad for makers.
You mean bad for makers who don't up their quality will end up losing market share for those who do.
You cant go wrong with Toyota 4Runner.
It's called Lawsuits from getting run over by their own vehicles. After loosing Millions of $$ in needless lawsuits, the Auto manufactures have had to go to this more and more. Levers are going away like it or not due to stupidity!
@@elbuggo hell no you can't. One of the simplest and more reliable things out there in general
Right on about the 4Runner. I retired as an auto mechanic and after years of dealing with this crap as a gift to me my '22 4Runner ORP is sitting in the driveway. It's about old school as you get today. Love it.
I spent 8 hours today trying to fix this very same issue TODAY... I did everything, including resetting a lot of modules, I tried unlocking it manually, I performed diagnosis with the seatbelt on, disconnected the battery for 30 minutes... nothing worked. Until I got so angry that I slapped that thing a couple of times. And it worked, I ain't joking. Slap that thang.
Hey Ivan, this is a good one. Going after the door code. Door sounds a bit sketchy upon closing,may be latching a bit funky,leading to a wonky signal/input. Engineers meeting..."let's eliminate the shifter"..."ya and use a knob and a module and a motor"! ... "Ya and make it like a video controller"!..Ya! That would be soo cool!!..."Ok good meeting"! Grrr engineers!!!
I’d be looking at the wiring schematic for the shift interlock solenoid and checking to see where it lives and if it has its power and ground. It’s acting a lot like a traditional shifter does when it’s stuck in park because the interlock solenoid is faulty (that data pid you’re concerned about seems to support that in my estimation). The one difference being that when you do the override with the key and move the shift knob, it wants to kick it back to park. That almost makes me think there could be 2 problems here?! Look forward to seeing what happens next.🙂✌️
Good analysis. He should look into it wouldn't take too long I imagine
So many of these manufacturers have a gift of obliterating simplicity. I had a similar situation a few weeks ago with my favorite little red transporter. Got it going (out of park) with my pocket knife and did a NPR repair when I got home with a small piece of wood and a “pin” to secure it. Covered the hole with a nicely shaped piece of 333.
It's called Lawsuits from getting run over by their own vehicles. After loosing Millions of $$ in needless lawsuits, the Auto manufactures have had to go to this more and more. Levers are going away like it or not due to stupidity!
@@Ram14250 The only thing these people should be awarded in a court should be a nicely framed Darwin Award, that they can hang on the wall.
I think I would go to the bcm and check the door latch signals, try and resolve that correlation code and go from there. I agree no codes in the gear shift module is a clue that this is a input problems. I know you'll fix it even with service info being less than par.
1:25 - same issue I had with my 2000 Pontiac Montana. All the figment databases said the Dorman replacement would only fit 2001 and up but luckily they were wrong. GM only sold the whole shift cable with bushing.
If you go into the PID's section on your scan tool, look for BOO1 and BOO2. Those are your 2 brake switches. You need to make sure they are both working properly. It wouldn't be a bad idea to check the batteries in the key fob either. They need to be higher than 3 volts. 3.2, 3.3, etc... The tolerance is very low for those batteries to work properly. If you are not 100% sure, just replace them.
Also, I saw the wrench light was on. Sometimes that will come on instead of the MIL.
I seem to remember when certain cars would slip out of park years ago, but this is a new twist of an old problem. Ford certainly has mastered the art of making the simple complicated!
Door correlation is what I would be focused on. I bet the shift control is working correctly. On a working Ford Fusion I would be interested to know if you had the door open if the car will let you put it in drive.
I would agree that the thing to concentrate on is: What is the correlation logic here? What two, or more, switch inputs are being compared, and does the "working one" actually drive the information on the BCM, etc. i.e. you think the door is working correctly, but there is a secondary switch that disagrees. The rule of thumb is: Fix what you can see, worry about the rest after that. That door correlation DTC is the thing we all see....
Imagine a world full of electric cars and no way home , ill keep driving my 1991 GMC 1500 thank you .
Electric cars are LESS complicated, not more.
@@GerardPinzone so your your a mechanic now ?
@@oldbiker9739 No. I just have an IQ over 100.
@@GerardPinzone good come back lol
Make an EV swap and get best of both :P
Glad my 2013 Fusion has a lever. At least I can get it out of park when it goes stupid!
I have a 2016 with the previous shifter. I honestly wouldn’t be surprised if a similar thing could happen even with the old shifter style. Thankfully I have a 00 f150 as well
The technology does seem over the top, but never helped by the seemingly flimsy plastic parts behind it. Almost bought an identical Fusion from a main dealer. It was nearly new, the price was very low, the only thing that put me off was it was a Canadian registered import, I was worried about possible issues with the Ford warranty here in the US. Glad I steered clear.
The correlation code could be a second signal from door lock that says the door isn't latched, aside from a push style sensor on door pilar
Interesting thought...but only one switch in the latch here 😉
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics could be two switches on door latch for redundancy in the same way as to two switches on brake pedal or clutch pedal on manuals (critical safety components), because there were two data pits on the scan tool for door open and only one switched status when you opened-closed the door
Door locks also have two separate locks. A normal mode lock. And a dead bult lock that locks the car when you park or I guess drive that makes the handle of the door inside not work. Maybe it's trying to lock the door and fails on the regular lock? But it can so dead bult and lock it via the switch?
@@geogeo8250 never seen a redundant door latch switch... When I do it may be time to retire 🤣
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics haha, i watched part two, nice job, nothing surprises me when it comes to manufacturers ingenuity to torture car technicians
Shift cable frozen due to snow.
Motor's control electronics tries continuously to find the correct position but fails every try.
Causing the control motor's (plastic?) worm gear to break/damage off some teeth.
Maybe the different PWM readings at 8:40 (Gear Shift Module Output Duty Cycle) are an indication of this as well (% Commanded versus Measured).
Waiting for the next part...
I'm thinking that it is in the module in the fender. Sorry, I forget that nomenclature of it. I believe the rotary switch is communicating to that module but that actuator there is not doing its job. Of course, you are much more experienced than I am at this. It will be interesting to see the final outcome as always.
I just dealt with a BMW convertible top. No codes. The entire top worked just fine. But the partition glass wouldn't go down. So you couldn't close the top once it was opened. Turned our to be the position sensor that was integrated into the window motor. This was a challenge because there no codes. No data in Mitchell. No data on Identifix. And no wiring diagrams available. The irony in adding more electrical components gives you less control of your car when something fails.
I agree. I had to make a house call to get this guy's Mercedes out of park that was stuck at a boat landing. Had some piece in the console style shifter assembly that is known to break eventually and leave the driver stranded in a parking lot or in their driveway or a traffic signal or railroad crossing.
Ivan, it sounds like the door is correlating to the park shift module. GSM thing, that's what i saw in the video but it had to be input problem preventing it move. I hate those newfangled thing. I prefer old fashioned shift on the column!! Great video! I'm curious about what you find and the conclusion to the problem!
I would make certain that the vehicle is insured, especially in case of an electrical fire. Nod, Nod, Wink, Wink. Due to problems with the prior year vehicles not going into park, Ford built a return to park system into the 2017 models that is supposed to put the transmission into park if the driver attempts to exit the vehicle. The error codes you were seeing for the drivers door might be causing it to stay in park.
The door ajar issue may be telling it to lock it in park, for safety. I do know it will lock it in park if the brake light fuse is blown.
My next step would be powers/grounds/can-bus signal check. It's nuts how manufacturers think our lives would be soooo much better if we had fancy rotary electronic shifters and my biggest hatred - the electronic parking brake. We're talking about something so simple with a very, very low failure rate and they give us electronic complexity and the need for special tools to retract the pads for maintenance.
It's all to deter and/or prevent diyers from fixing their cars themselves, and to make owning a car ever more expensive.
Theres all this scam ass bullshit about how we need to save the planet by creating less waste/pollution and what not, and what are we getting ? Thats right, ever more throwaway junk with ever shorter lifetime, that takes even more resources and puts out even more pollution to recycle...
I can assure ya that we were cleaner and greener back in the 50's and 60's when the smog laid thick over LA like the ciggy smoke in the bars and pubs at the time.
I will never ever in my life buy a car newer than 2005! And when cars older than say 5yo gets outlawed and banned i'd rather quit driving alltogether than put up with this shit.
I think you meant powers and GROUNDS!
what a pain looks like I won't be working on any of that!!! good luck IVAN!!!
I'm fairly certain the purpose of this junk is to decouple the design of the engine compartment stuff from the cabin stuff. Even in my own engineering field (not automotive) I have noticed a disturbing trend towards hyper-specialization and inability of different teams to communicate with each other. Everyone only wants to know about their specific part and the rest of the product is a black box. And surprise, it leads to bad designs.
BINGO!
What type of engineering do you do? Inquiring minds want to know!
@@dans_Learning_Curve EE: low power/IoT circuit design and PCB layout.
Yep, they'd get rid of the steering shaft if they could... Just make everything "plug and go"
@@jessicav2031 sounds interesting!
A few years ago I predicted we're going to do more with less in electronics! Less heat generated. Do you see this happening?
I had similar case with my Saturn Aura. Couldn't shift the gear shifter from park to either drive, rear or neutral. It happened in winter. I had to keep car running for about 30 minutes, then could shift to drive. A dealership's service replaced Automatic floor gear shifter for about $500.
It thinks something is wrong with the door so you will have to follow that circuit. Does that cable box by the fender still try to run with that selector removed.
If not then manually activate each output from the selector plug to where ever it goes to ECM? See if the cable control box responds to that correctly.
If it does keep running then it must be what ever controls that cable box.
Great job Ivan!
Control module in the wheel well...we need to look no further!😆
Ivan so maybe i wasn't following close enough but when you went through the calibration test did he arm on the cable mechanism that controls the cable was it moving at all? If not shouldn't it be the motor was sounding like it should have been? Im speaking of that module that is in the inner wheel well area..
I feel you pain Ivan. I am terrified of getting a new car. Been looking at ES350, GX, and Avalon. I think these are pretty good. Nothing wrong with my RX300 but the problem with Toyota is that you end up driving a car for sooo long with no problems, you get bored of it.
I just picked up a 98 Camry V6 for a grand to use as a spare beater loaner... Already slightly bored with it 😅
This vehicle is example of why sharp techs like Ivan will always have work. The mechanics that can't learn/understand the current/future technologies need to start looking for a new profession.
PS: I saw signs of creatures having been in the engine bay as Ivan was showing us the trans shift cable.
Happened to me one time. Water got in the cable sheathing and froze. Motor couldn't overcome the ice and just labored and clicked just like that.
Door interlock signal fault to BCM indicating door is open, not allowing the shift module to unlock from park. Might be worth looking into.
Nice video. I would be doing some research on the correlation code from the door. Also did you check for brake lights? There might be something in that circuit.
Obviously, the customer ignored the Ford dealership for to long and big brother shut the car down. 😂
I have a 2010 Fusion with the 4cyl and a 6spd manual. Only other option is mid range stereo system with sync. Only has 95K KM on it. I would love a newer automatic, but I can't help but want to keep the simple aspect of my current car.
The P166B is definitely the lead on this. It's so nice to have a car so locked down it destroys its basic functionality. It must be thinking the door is stuck open for some reason and automatically throws it into part. Faulty switch, I don't know.
I know that most of these electronic shifter mechanisms will automatically shift to park when the driver door it open, driver seat belt is open, and your foot is off the brake. If the computer thinks the door is open, you're not going anywhere. The shift interlock override is just that. It should allow the user to shift the transmission out of park if and when the shifter interlock fails to operate normally. IMO, I would start investigating the driver door latch next.
Since that driver side door correlation code is a hard code, I'd remedy that first.
That might free up the rest of it for relearning.
I'd be looking into the actuation motor rather than the dial...
As for the system itself- pretty bizarre to have all that nonsense- when it still utilizes a cable in the end !
The human hand plus a lever was just fine !!
I appreciate the videos ..Not a chance i ever buy or own one of these newer cars or truck . I seen the cables come apart and get fouled.. i even just replaced the worn cable in the with the proper size and not but a expensive cable assembly
Some cars have dual brake switches for redundancy. I did see Brake switch 2 in your log. If they aren't working as they should then you might get problems. Earlier just the cruise control failed.
This is why I Bought a 6 speed manual equipped Car, It actually moves when in gear, No slipping B💩S, 2020 K20C2 powered Honda Civic Sport it gets my wife to work and back without a problem even when it -30⁰F outside 🌞.
Can I ask where you're located if it's -30 outside?
The computer is not sure if the door is closed and thus it refuses to go out of park. That would be my guess.
A friend of mine had one of the first Fiestas. About a year and a half in, it decided to shift into park at 80mph on the highway, and scattered the transmission. After a couple months at the dealership (this was pre-Powershift Scandal), Ford did a purchase-price buyback on the car. Never did find out what happened. :(
Needless to say, you have my full attention!
Wow that must have been spectacular xD
I don't think he's talking about a 1978 Fiesta.
@@lvsqcsl Those were very good cars. I think they were made in Germany before unreliable overcomplicated became synonymous with German cars, and now American too.
They rehired the engineer who brought us the dual clutch trans, " I have another great idea".
HAHA that guy is brilliant! 🤣
Even the older systems are not completely reliable. I once spilled a few drops of coffee in the area of my shifter (Lincoln) at a drive through. It was in park and refused to release the lock so I could shift into drive. I had to peal off the bezel and use the bypass while people starved to death in the line behind me.
My work van is a Ford Galaxy 7-seater minivan with the second and third row of seats ripped out. The park brake needs to be disengaged when I want to move the car without the seat belt on, pretty annoying. Even though the park brake is electric, automatic park brake at red lights like Volkswagens have, is not available on the Ford platform. What's even worse, when the car is in drive and the park brake is on, the clutch is halfway engaged, so I have to put it in neutral and back into drive, when the lights turn green. You can have your Ford in any color you want, as long as it's black.
Oh I forget. The cruise control has to be turned after each start, before the set button works.
The more videos I watch of yours, the more I’m starting to think like you and I’ll keep my 18 year old Lexus going. Comfortable and modern enough, without all these stupid unnecessary electronics!
I would check door switches and the brake switches next. Most brakes have a NO and NC switch and if one or both isn’t working the control for the gear selector will not like it. Also I had a similar issue in a MY22 Challenger where if the driver door wasn’t fully latched it would throw the trans back into park when you drive away. And that car is such a boat it happened all the time 😂
But it does seem like inputs like you said I think that module is fine
Door correlation: could it be the open hood that prevents the Gearshifter going out of P?
This is actually a good guess too. The hoods on Range Rovers during Ford owned years used to do this exact thing. Hood open car wouldn’t move I believe.
I thought I had seen it all. I went to the local Ford Dealership and they had a 2019 Lincoln Continental sitting on the lot. It has the electric door handles. I opened the door and got in the front seat and then exited, closed the front door and got in the back seat. When I closed the rear door, it would not open. Apparently, the car had set there so long the battery went dead. I happened to notice the driver's door didn't close, so, I crawled to the front seat and got out. I called a friend of mine that works as a salesman at the dealership. He came over and connected a battery boost pack and got the driver's door closed. He also showed me there is an emergency latch under the armrest. What good is this stuff if it doesn't work and you must resort to using a "latch?" Great video!
WOW what a fail haha! And fancy Lincolns are notorious for parasitic draws so that car would be a real pain in the ass xD
Transmission range control module failure. For some reason when the bushings go bad it takes out the trcm. Try to PMI the trcm if problem persists replace it.
I think it has something to do with the drivers door. If it thinks the door isn't closed or shut all the way, (whatever that is), it won't shift out of park until it is properly secured. Something like that...
Overengeneered crap, thanks for the video Ivan great video. Take care of yourself and family ❤️❤️👍.
At some point, it was mentioned about an 'overheating' diagnosis, which may well have a sensor (coolant level) that is connected to the main ECM, and in a 'fault' condition (low coolant) instructs the gear selector module to lock into 'Park'. I can't offer much more from the provided information, but think that there could be up to 8 sections requiring an 'ok' status before it unlocks 'Park'. Some such as 'driver's door shut', 'person sitting on seat', 'seat belt buckeled', 'foot on brake', 'oil level low', 'brake fluid low', 'automatic transmission fluid low', and that's 6 already..! At the back of my mind, it did unlock 'Park' to reach the location the car currently is.
Sounds like a Saturn V going through its ignition sequence start. Maybe Ford could reprogram it onto the dashboard display. 'Course, everyone woud have to be loaded and strapped in two hours before you want to set off on the journey.
*thinks* maybe the Ford designers wanted to work for NASA but this was the closest they could get to.
Since that emergency override button ( in glove box ) doesn't seem to be working, I'd look into that. As always, great learning experience watching you.
Not sure what transmission set up is in this fusion/mondeo but I think there's a drivers door status signal wire between the BCM and GSM, there's also a direct signal wire between the drivers door latch and the GSM I think it's the unlock switch circuit but I can't say for certain without the vehicle info.
Hope this is some help Ivan!
This happens often on my Ford Fusion. No fun when it was 30 degrees out and all the kids in the car.
Sometimes if I pump the brakes and then push the pedal all the way to the floor, the gear lets loose and lets me move from park to drive.
My next step would be to step away for an hour or so, regroup, rethink what is working, what is not working. Reread service literature, forums, etc. for ideas. It appears the interlock and the GSM are fighting each other, as to what to do, based on their inputs.
I did all that...didn't help haha
Yes. This is (always) not the first car this happened to. (But I'm sure Ivan has read up on the Forlorn Ford Fora. )
I had this issue a while back and it was the shift motor by the right fender wheel well. Checked my inputs and outputs at the motor connector, when you move the shift lever the computer sees the command but since the motor does not move, the feed back to computer is not there and sends it back to park.
I would be checking all the door data pids as usually a correlation code means the computer is receiving conflicting data about about one particular part or system.
I go with the door ajar. With my 2022 Tucson, if you open the door with the car in gear, it jams the transmission back into park. Glitchy door switch or frayed wire in the dood jam.
Had a Mercedes once that whenever I was backing up into a parking space along a curb, and I would open the door to check how close the rear wheel was to curb, it would go into park by itself. Think this Driver's Door Status fault code might have something to do with it. Module thinks the door is open and won't let it out of park.
Seems there is an electric interlock plunger in the cable motor drive unit.
I would pursue the driver door fault code problem to find if this is preventing the cable motor selecting gears.
Most likely a cable problem somewhere, even a critter visit ...
Geez Ivan, the car told you that the shift module was unreliable. I swear, unreliable, implausible. It sure looks like they could have run that mechanical cable into the car and attached it to a a shift lever. I guess all of these cars that shift electronically need these safeguards in place. Actor Anton Yelchin comes to mind when his Grand Cherokee rolled back and pinned him to the driveway gate. Great video!
It's ironic that the shift by wire system caused the accident in the first place 🤣
The force to P is potentially the return to park feature when the car is being exited or tuned off.
Also... _If a GSM self-test is performed, _*_do not apply the brake pedal_*_ A false P081F DTC will appear if the brake pedal is applied during the self-test_
I'm with you Ivan. Why do car companies have to over complicate things? I'll take the manual gear selector any day.
I would change the "C.A.R. module" located precisely between the front and the rear bumper. 😜
Replace it with a Honda or Toyota car module! 😉
At 10:31 at the top of the screen, there is an entry labeled "Brake transmission shift interlock hardwired input indicates transmission should not leave the park position" It is currently "YES"
Also, the next line down is on a similar note "Brake transmission shift interlock system is preventing leaving the park position"and is "YES"
YES
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Just got to the part of the video where you point that out also XD
moor output pinon gear broke? the status indicator/sensor is on the lever/output side so when you manually moved the position lever, the system acknowledged proper angles..
Hello Ivan, I have new tundra and if I don’t close all the way the door I can’t change the shift, probably the fault code about the door telling you something wrong with the door module
I imagine that the electric cars and stop start combustion engines forced this issue with the gears. I mean if the car is on and you can't hear the engine, I can imagine many people would just get out without returning the selector to park which is dangerous to say the least. I would seriously fix that door issue first because it could trigger that gear module to go into park. But Ivan, it's no more difficult than any other module. Measure power and grounds, inputs and outputs and understand the relationship between how the modules work. I'm not liking all these new gadgets. Give me a stick shift, manual heat/cool controls, simple am/fm radio and I'm good. The only thing I would splurge on would be electric windows.
Yes, the door lock switch is the thing to check.
Does the Fusion have a key lock/unlock touchpad on the outside of the door? The ecm may be receiving or not receiving a correct status code from it. Just a wild guess.
I’ve owned one of these cars and if you open the door, it will shift into park. So it’s possible there’s something wrong with the door switch or related component.
Every single bizzare electronic problem, there is short somewhere in cables which no manufacturer ever bothered to check for. I'd split my bet between my preferred brake position sensor input somewhere to more popular "smocking gun" theory of door sensor. Saying it is extremely easy, finding it isn't, but in Ivan we trust! I know if anyone, can, he will find that issue!
I think your right its an
Input problem go to the
Scope 👍
This issue is certainly concerning since I will be in the process of helping my brother buy a new car shortly. I will definitely direct him away from any Ford product. And as Bombardier states below this is exactly why I’m keeping my 73 CJ 5 and my 72 Jeep commando as back ups
Toyota and Honda and even they are having issues.
I think we all need an old vehicle which can survive an EMP, for when the Chinese start dropping them from helium balloons. 😳 Plus, an antimagnetic watch.
Interesting how Fords rotary shifter setup work and where those inputs come from. Waiting on part 2
Most poorly-designed system I've come across to date... Can't even set a DTC when it's obviously BROKEN!!
Thanks JLR!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Thing is it doesn't know it's broken due the door control logic being faulty, it just sees the door correlation logic as being a problem.
Doesn’t some new vehicles if a door is opened it stays in park mode for safety? If so then what ever part that sensors if doors are open or closed might be bad and that’s why car stuck in park?
Why make things simple, when you can make them complicated and increase the number of problems? Looks like am interlocking problem (try checking the door module?). Could it be related to the work previously done by the shop? This should be a good one, once there will be, at least, a Part 2 - you got me itching, Ivan 🙂
I'd pull the unit behind the inner fender that the cable attaches to and check the gears in that, they could be plastic and worn. It was making sounds like it was trying to function.