The TRUTH About Korean Skincare (Dermatologist)
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- čas přidán 9. 06. 2024
- In this video, I discuss what ingredients and philosophies Korean beauty is famous for, what the evidence base is for the quality of their natural skincare ingredients, the pros and cons of double cleansing, my thoughts on the 10 step Korean skincare routine, and finally, my overall theory on why K Beauty is really so popular right now.
TIMESTAMPS:
0:00 Intro
1:05 What is Korean Skincare?
2:12 Natural Ingredients
2:39 Green Tea
3:18 Centella Asiatica
3:31 Bee Venom
3:48 Snail Mucin
4:43 Double Cleansing
5:57 The 10 Step Routine
7:11 'Korean Skincare Is More Innovative'
10:14 Why Korean Skincare is Overhyped
Social Media Links:
Instagram: / usamasyed
Twitter: / usamasyedmd
I'm building an AI personal skincare assistant so that ANYONE can have a skincare expert in their pocket that knows their skin, helps them track it, and gives them unbiased advice on the best products/routines for them. If you're interested in this, sign up here for Early Access: og7lzb6tl1h.typeform.com/to/xVnXi5oc
What about rice water
Please don’t. AI should not be used for what a web browser and research do
Not only you are funny but it's evidence-based. Congratulations to you and your wife on the baby🎉
thank you so much, for the kind comments and well wishes!
I don't care about natural, clean or any other BS. I just know that I have ultra-sensitive reactive skin with tons of allergies and rosacea. I just recently started some K beauty options and for the first time in my life, my skin is moisturized and not burning!
I'm 52 and have tried all the regular US brands for decades.
Honestly, the big reason for a lot of us is Korean skincare is far more affordable. I can get an amazing night cream for $10-15 as opposed to going to Sephora and spending $ 50-100 for basically the same thing.
how do you decide what’s amazing with Korean skincare? And how do you decide that an ‘amazing’ night cream in the US needs to be $100?
@usamasyed I am in my 40s, soooo....I've had plenty of opportunities to try plenty of things. Trying a variety of things over the years and seeing how my skin responds is evidence enough for me. It might not work for everyone but if I get the same results either way, I may as well spend less money 🙂
Definitely agree about the affordability! Amazing products for much less money
Lies.
@@patricew.4010cry😅
This brillant video is an amazing reminder to help not get sucked into this world of skincare, beauty, unattainable perfection, etc. Thank you so much for taking the time to film this.
My pleasure, thanks for taking the time to comment!
I will say one area where they really are worth the hype, at least for me, is sunscreen. Being dark skinned I tend to avoid physical sunscreen. There are not many American chemical sunscreens that don't burn my eyes.
I gotta hand it to them on the sunscreen!
Same. Also, I have acne prone skin that is very sensitive and most European and American sunscreens brake me out but it happens way less often with Korean and Japanese sunscreens.
Try biore from Japan. Except a few, many korean sunscreen is overrated
@@usamasyed I'd like to watch a video from you on Korean sunscreens.
you're lying to yourself
I tried the 10 step Korean skincare routine many years ago. It made me break out so I simplified it to 3-4 steps. I tried Korean skincare long before it became trendy in USA. I liked them because they seem to be effective and good quality at an affordable price. However, it's not as cheap anymore ever since it took over USA. They were my hidden gems back in the day. I just use whatever now. Doesn't matter Europe, USA or Korea.
I suspect you might have been misinformed. Korean skincare doesn't mean that you have to do 10 steps. Every skin is different and needs different ingredients, actives, consistencies and amounts of products. The 10 step routine was just a trend years ago, most koreans only have a few steps (some just wash and moisturize).
Having said that, keep using the products that suit you best. Nobody is forcing people to use certain products.
the korean 10 step routine wasn't even a thing in korea btw, it's literally something soko or soho made up, i am not saying koreans didnt have fancy long ass routines but it was not a rule like how many westerners perceieve the korean 10 step routine
@@msk-qp6fn Yes, exactly. It's so annoying how people keep spreading misinformation. Especially a derm (like the guy that posted this video) should keep that in mind and explain it in a video about korean skincare. But he isn't objective at all, he keeps stereotyping and lumping a whole country into one random internet trend.
You were probably purging? I had a spotty face for a while and it was the products cleaning all the crap out of my skin. It’s glowing now so was worth it in the end.
This is the right approach. What truly moves the needles w/r/t skin aging (other than plastic surgery and in office procedures) are genetics, sun protection, and not causing skin inflammation that would promote premature aging (and yes, using a bunch of random products like the 10 step skin care routine could induce “invisible” skin inflammation).
It simply comes down to; Korean skincare is more affordable but has the same if not better results than western skincare. They focus more on hydrating and rebuilding skin and their formulations often have less irritating ingredients while having more of the good ingredients.
Also the 10 step Korean skincare routine is not from Korea, it was a US marketing strategy to sell more products
Exactly
Cap , Korean idols are popularizing the 8, 10 ,12 step skin care routines
@@peace346 Not entirely sure how that's any different from US based social media stars advertising every random American skincare brand under the sun
@@unit4512 I'm a board certified dermatologist, the k beauty industry is unauthorised .Most skincare brand comes with the label of Korea aren't certified either by any chem tests nor by govt . Only few k products like Numbuzin, Heimish, Missha etc , only few are certified . Hundreds of patients everyday with same concern , that they used this so called advertised random k product and spoiled their face .. The teens , actors , k pop fame ..all made a change in the products some business idiots sell . Which made no regulatory on release of certain products and chemicals added . American board FDA or any other country has it ...constantly checking the skincare products industries are adding and products that are on sale .Dr is rightly Educating the dark side of k products
I have very sensitive and dry skin and I've always struggled to find good western products that weren't expensive, I can't wear most affordable western sunscreens as well as it stings and hurts. But since I started using Japanese/Korean skincare I spend less money and get better results, my skin feels calm and my pockets aren't empty 😂
Korean skincare has been life changing. I use western active serums (vitamin c, retinol, etc) but the Korean moisturizers, toners, sunscreen, double cleansing, & masks have been better than any American products I’ve ever tried and I’ve worked on a cosmetics floor with manyyy American & western brands.
I love Asian sunscreens because they don't smell
@@skateata1 or burn the eyes!!
It's called the placebo effect. Have you even watched any of this video?
@@meghanjohnson517 it’s not a placebo effect if they have hydrating and PH balanced products with real ingredients.. I mean I’d hope the science behind SPF and ceramides is good 😹
@@saragrant556there have been very few CLINICAL studies done on both of those "ingredients" (ceramides are a microscopic structure created by each indiviuals unique genetic makeup within their skin and its impossible to duplicated or mimic them in a lab. We have some ingredients that can mimic a semi similar structure on a very small scale. But it's so fleeting and only gives us a temporary sense of having an increased, healthier, stronger skin barrier. we also have other ingredients that show some minimal evidence of encouraging the skin to increase the rate of production of natural ceramides and increase the actual percentage of ceramides, even producing stronger structures. But unfortunately, those ingredients are not available in any over the counter products in both Korea And America. And we just cant recreate this miraculous ability of the skin quite like the skin can. Diet and environmental components Olay a larger roll).
And sadly, the data we have on spf in MOST countries was recently ruled by a judge to be wreckless and un-useable when determining the ability to block out truly damaging cancer causing rays. the studies were done in the 70s and 80s and are lacking extremely important regulatory standards and requirements. Many spf products are not safe because they dont have to disclose the percentage of spf or the laboratory process. However, if we had more regulations in more countries (Italy has great skin care regulations for example) we would be able to have better quality ingredients, more studies that are actually factual and compelling, and we would know just how much of each ingredient is in our products, how it reacts to other ingredients, and how it was integrated into the product. The sad fact is that 99.9% of the products available over the counter have mainly ingredients that have zero clinical studies in them and zero safety and transparency regulations. There are a few amazing ingredients in products of both the Korean and American markets that have some truly compelling data available on their efficacy, but again, because both industries lack regulations, anyone can SAY they have those great ingredients in their products, but they don't have to disclose just how much or how potent or how safe it is.
Ever since I have started applying Korean products, I feel noticeable difference in my skin. Its not overhyped, just that its better and cheaper than American junk
Fr
I really think 10 steps is how K Beauty is introduced, in part for marketing, but to also explain the product types and the order in which to apply them. I don’t believe it’s expected or sensible to do all 10 steps twice daily. Sheet masking and exfoliating are once a week steps max and some steps overlap. Sunscreen, a step into itself, is only in the morning. Essences aren’t necessary but it depends on what kind of essence you are using (i.e. ferments, texture), and likewise with toner. If it’s a hydrating toner, no essence needed. If it’s a clarifying toner, no exfoliation needed. If your skin is young and healthy maybe you don’t need a serum, save for antioxidants. And double-cleansing is really for wearers of heavy make-up or physical sunscreens. The combinations are endless so it really depends what you’re using and your individual skin needs.
Yes!! Correct! That’s what the Westerners wanted to push out. The “Korean 10 steps” is a myth!
So we dont need to double cleanse when we use chemical sunscreen?
I’m so glad you pointed this out especially about things like exfoliating. No one in their right mind would recommend exfoliating 2x day everyday. And to be honest, when I looked at the additional steps I’ve added to my skin care over time I was doing about 7/10 in the evening anyway. Make up remover + cleanser before the days of micellar water is pretty close to two step cleansing to me. Following the Korean way just gives me more focused products with better ( to me) ingredients.
@@sakinam8209 I don’t really think you need to double cleanse if your first cleanser (which is typically a cleansing oil or balm) rinses off completely. I feel like most do but some leave behind a film that needs to be washed off with a second cleanser.
Some people with really oily skin might like to use a second cleanser just because the oil cleanser might make their skin feel too moisturized if that makes sense. So it really depends on the products you’re using and your skin’s condition.
I’m glad you are making videos again, as someone who is new to the world of skincare, your ‘scam’ video saves me a lot of money from buying these ‘scam’ products, now I just use cleanser, moisturizer, sunscreen and retinoid. Congrats on the baby too
Ahh so happy to hear that! And thank you!
@@usamasyedI can say it's done the same for me! I have chicken skin, three types of eczema, and very dry sensitive skin. So I only use cerave face wash on my entire body, cerave and curel moisturizers and the occasional retinol products!
06:12 Toner, serum and essence are basically the same thing, and sheet masks are the previous thing but soaking up a tissue instead 😅
😂 truth
I rather use leave on products like gel/moisturizer over those mask sheets 😂
@@hilmyakatsuki1665 same! It's fun, but it's pretty unnecessary. And it's totally nonsense to use it daily!
I’m sorry to burst your bubbles but I’ve gotten amazing results from Korean skincare. They do deliver and they’re at par or even better than their western counterparts and that’s coming from someone who is skeptical about it and shrugged off Korean skincare. As I segued into Korean skincare I found out that they’re sophisticated and innovative and uses high quality ingredients and formulations.
They’re worth the hype, absolutely.
Korean myself- never had blemishes, no dark circle and normal skin. I only use 6-7step and most of what people say we do are not what we really do.
Toner (ph balanced one normally, then once a week with exfoliating agent), peptide serum, vitamin c serum (day) or vitamin a serum (night), bean essence, ceramide cream, a drop of oil, sunscreen.
❤
Absoloutely, I know several koreans who don't even do that many steps either-- some not even any--just suncreen. And even his skin is very good at 30-40 yrs old. Skin health is far more than just the external products you use.
Great video! I live in India and it's only recently the local industry is leveling up with it's contemppories in the west but I am already overwhelmed by the sheer amount of new skincare releases into the market. I'm glad that skincare is a lot more affordable now with brands like Minimalist putting out high quality and reasonably priced skincare lines but I'll stick to my staple suncreen, cleanser and kojic acid and glycolic acid ointment and the bioderma moisturizers qnd an occasional clay mask.These are my essentials and have stood the test of time. I've bought enough skincare to fill up whole cupboards but all i needed were my key few.
Less is more in the skincare world!
About the natural ingredients, I feel like many miss out on understanding the historical and cultural significance behind them. Korean/Asian medicine focuses a lot on herbs, plants, and natural ingredients, so there is long history behind the properties of these ingredients. Therefore, it just makes sense that Korean skincare focuses lot on innovating upon natural ingredients when there is a culture behind it. Now, I am not saying history = facts or is superior than scientific studies, but I see so many express skepticism on these natural ingredients without knowing its cultural and historical significance. I definitely agree there is just a lot of marketing poly and consumerism behind these natural ingredients, but that is lowkey an issue with American consumerism in general. So don't completely knock natural ingredients out of your book! I actually love a lot of Korean skincare that combine natural ingredients and "western" ingredients like centella and hyaluronic acids.
Yep! I definitely don’t completely knock the value of natural ingredients - there’s clear and compelling evidence for a bunch of things like licorice, aloe, oat kernel extract etc. I just think the word has lost all meaning and become a pure marketing fantasy now
@@usamasyed I always wondered how much language is a barrier to finding scientific evidence. All the ingredients you just listed and in the video were more popular natural ingredients in America. I wonder if there are scientific evidence/studies behind natural ingredients more popular in Asia that just can’t be found bc language barrier?
@@gkwon10most peer reviewed studies get published in English as well as the language native to the publication so I don’t think there is a secret hidden trove of Korean, Chinese, Japanese, etc. research that American based scientists don’t have access to.
I’m 49 and my skin looks fantastic since using good quality Korean skincare for about 10 years now. They also have vitamin derivatives and actives but maybe in a different form. Extra bonus is that they are half the price of what we are used to and don’t cause reaction to my sensitive skin.
And yes I do double cleansing in the evening when I have used makeup and/or sunscreen and no I don’t do all the steps to get this result.
Evidence based? Just look at the skin of those who follow the routine! That’s result based.
Feel free to share your favorite products!
@@spa-peggymeatballs4861
I’m not a skincare specialist but this is
what i am currently using, not all at the same time and I sometimes switch.
Purito: from green cleansing oil; from green deep foaming cleanser; centralla uncented toner (or Son&park beauty toner: this one I sometimes use as cleanser in the morning)
I only use the oil in the evening when I’ve used makeup/sunscreen during the day.
Plainet squalsne oil
Cos de baha MA peptide serum;
Klairs, midnight blue calming cream; freshly used vitamine E mask;
Beauty of joseon, revive eye serum
Non-Korean I also use for lack of Korean alternative or just because i’m happy to use them
hylamide SubQ; dermalogica daily microfiant. To me it’s halfway being a Korean skincareproduct, don’t use it daily
Lacura AHA-PHA peel pads (Aldi , yes I know but they’re really good)
Geek&gorgeous 101 0,1 retinal
It’s now time for a refill but I see some products are no longer available, so I need to find alternatives. My sources:
Littlewonderland.nl not sure if they have an English version but a lot is in English to begin with, don’t know about the personalized service and ww shipping but they have a wide range.
CZcams: One Eye Beauty ; Odile Monod - the Monodist.
Feel free to recommend for my skin type. Happy customers are always the best advice ♥️
Whoa, i'm just scrolling through the comments and to see that you've replied to almost all of them really warms my heart, you clearly work very hard and are passionate about youtube! keep up the great work. It's awesome that your now a father to, best wishes to your family
Like to try my best whenever I can, but know I end up missing a bunch (especially replies to comments)!
Totally agree 💯 Kbeauty is very hyped . It's like very few years something is trending and people follow it blindly . In kbeauty , french pharmacy , US brands there is always few products which are good , if v use them that's more than enough . People pay so much just to import the trending items even if it doesn't suit them . After I started using sunscreen regularly I noticed a difference . Thanks doc for always educating us 🙏
totally agree, and happy I could be of help!
You literally taught me everything about skincare. No falling for BS . I now only hope to be such a cool doc like you. Thank you. ❤
That’s so great to hear!
Loved the statement about the 10 steps taking so long you never leave the bathroom and lessens UV exposure! 😂😂😂
@Pixiekindnurse
So did I! 😅😄🤣
You are awesome because you chose integrity over anything and you are not sponsored:
You simply want to propagate good knowledge!
Congrats for you and your lady for your new born child.
Thank you!!
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Great to watch a new video because I really enjoy the no BS content and the humor of your channel. 😃
And btw, all the innovative sunscreen filters used by Korean brands were invented ..... in Europe.
haha yep!! Gotta give shoutout to Europe!
Best Dr on CZcams. You’re honest and don’t do sponsorships from skincare companies
this is probably the funniest skincare video i've ever watched! and it's evidence-based. great job!
Thank you!
I think more content like this or dissecting popular products making the rounds online would be super helpful for everyday consumers ! Thanks for all you do 😊
Will try my best!
I loved having a longer routine because it was relaxing but some of those extra steps were just moisturizing at best and irritating at worst. So like to be rid of those toner and essences. Now I'm back to double cleansing if I have makeup on, my cerave moisturizer, a retinol, a rotation of another serum, and sun screen. I really appreciate you talking more about the traditional active ingredients rather than focusing on individual products so that we can be more informed consumers. :)
Love love love you! A brown doc who is not just falling for the mainstream narrative.
ahh thank you!
The K-beauty hype is mainstream among “skinfluencers,” but not dermatologists (of any background).
What does his race have to do with it
@@canesugar911 because not many docs from his background are like this, just appreciated him, nothing more, nothing less.
Thank you so much for this video. Ever since I saw you on Ali's youtube channel, I've been subscribed to you and every video you put out is always so relevant and full of information. I live in Asia and the K-Skincare craze is HUGE over here, and I'm constantly being advertised different serums and toners and face masks by the vendors when I go out to buy skincare products. It's always tempting, and the vendors are always adamant about the benefits, so I love that I can always count on you to set the record straight. Also congratulations on the newborn!!!
Greatly appreciate you for this insight! I've been obsessed with korean skincare for almost 10 years and I have pretty much formed the same summary.
Looks like I'm in good company then!
@usamasyed I also just watched your La Mer video and enjoyed it. Very cultish! 😆 Its history is a bit insane! Hoping you drop your skincare routine (or a recommended skincare routine) in a video soon! 🤞🏻🤞🏻
Korean skincare is not overhyped. They have elegant formulas that don't cost hundred dollars per product unlike the west. It's not only sunscreen. West started to make some innovative products very recently following the popularity of Korean skincare. Although they can't compete with affordability
True. In Indian market elegant Korean products are half the price of drugstore western products.
I totally agree with this. Western skincare with similar ingredients like the Korean skincare are multiple times more expensive than Korean skincare.
That's a virtue of the fact that US manufacturing costs 10x as much. If you have to pay your factory/shipping workers in dollars and have minimum wage laws, it does tend to lead to more expensive products. Not a criticism of Korean skincare, just giving the reasoning why. It's not just 'western brands are greedy'.
@@usamasyed US is trying to shove their brands down everyone's throats in the name of "efficacy". But the consumers of both Korean and US skincare know which products are good for their skin. So generalizing is not going to work in here. Natural skincare was in trend because of Clean Americans not Asians.
Totally true. I was stuck with only western skincare available in my country, but now I can find really good products with science proven effects and worth the price with korean cosmetics
I agree with pretty much everything you’ve said but….I still think (and this is personal) no one really does skincare like the Koreans. Half of my skin care is Korean and for me it’s the formulations and more. Sure maybe the green tea toners might not have all the data behind it but where else do you get a green tea toner? You have to at least admit the amazing major antioxidants it provides. Where else can we get some of the most hydrating essences, serums, moisturizers etc. also Korean skincare is more gentle and all about the hydration, fermentation and nourishment of the skin. Sure we can find something similar here in the U.S. but something I’ve noticed about skincare here in the west is the over exfoliation. It seems more cleansers, toners, serums and moisturizers have some time of exfoliant witch means more irritation. I think skincare in general could be subjective. All in all I think a reason a lot of people prefer Korean skincare is for its unique ingredients we don’t really see.
Love the no nonsense crap. I appreciate your content and the unlike the others, skincare should be simple and stress free. Keep your content coming!
Your content is so refreshing. I would get stressed bc I used to have a not so well skincare routine. Like the basics. And gradually began learning about products. There were so many products that made it overwhelming to want to learn. Luckily I have a friend who’s really into skincare and broke it down for me into basics. And since then I’ve kept my skincare simple and effective.
Korean skincare has saved my skin. Innovative and nourishing. Try it. Favourite brands are Innisfree, Skin1004, Beauty of Joseon, Cosrx, Purito , Heimish and Clean it Zero.
One of the most sensible skincare videos I've seen in ages. All your points really hit the mark. The additional point I'd make is that many (over-hyped) skincare products that contain certain extracts (e.g. centella asiatica) do so in very miniscule amounts. I often see amounts such as 0.01ppm (parts per million) on some Korean skincare products and doubt that this sort of very diluted concentration would have any therapeutic effects on human skin.
absolutely true. Same thing does happen in US skincare, where people will hype their 'retinol' but then it's the last ingredient on the list!
@@usamasyedI am from morocco and when I see things saying argan oil I laugh as all I can see on the ingredients is 2% ,even that moroccan oil brand is just silicones and people are paying big prices .
Yeah. Same with most actives in western skincare.
I tried so many different sunscreens but all of them let my skin break out even if it was labeled for sensitive skin or acne prone skin. Until i switched to a korean brand. It just works with my skin so kuch better ❤
I'm loving canmake mermaid UV gel. Which one did you pick?
your skin will be even better without sunscreen ..sunscreen will ruin our skin
@@heyyouFab It depends on the ingredient lists. If you choose silocone and microplastic free products you should be fine. Of course you have to double cleanse in the evening to wash the product fully. Otherwise it may clog your pores and cause acne. I've been there so I know what I say. It takes a while to search for good product but it's possible (also good oil cleanser)
Enjoyed your video, how you broke it down - and love the comedic adds! Please keep these coming.
First of all, I'm late but congratulations on having a baby! Wish you and your family the best of health.
Secondly, I agree with a lot on this. It's important to look at all constributing factors before concluding that Koreans have great skin because of their 10-step routine, and not because for people outside of Korea mostly see their celebrities, which is only a tiny fraction of their population, and they too have easy access to make up artists and cosmetic surgery.
Third, I love your dry sense of humor. I actually laughed out loud a few times through this video.
I love Korean sunscreen and love the textures of their moisturizers. . I have an unhealthy phobia of products that pill and since trying Korean stuff that doesn’t happen. Other than that I still stick to a mainly prescription routine with a Korean spf and moisturizer. The cleansers are super nice/gentle too but nothing sooo amazing. I do like that they focus on barrier health as opposed to harsh exfoliants but there is a major problem with over consumption in the world especially with skincare. So many hear all the hype and feel like they must buy it or they get fomo. I’m a perfect example but I had to put a stop to it several months back because I was draining my bank account rapidly and had drawers and drawers of unused products. It gives me anxiety to even think about
glad the K skincare has helped the pillophobia! and yeah for sure, whenever people overhype products it creates anxiety and FOMO in others, which is why I like to dispel a lot of unnecessary hype in my opinion!
The main reason I started buying Korean skincare products is because its easier to find good cruelty free options, also, they’ve been less irritating and striping on my skin
Cruelty free means nothing and is marketing BS 99% of the time.
@@usamasyedI think it depends on the country because cruelty-free here means they can’t test/harm/kill animals to test the ingredients. And vegan means no animals used to make the product, so very important :)
Cruelty free mucin
@@nickdavidelijah can't kill animal for testing bit can kill for active ingredient
Mucin
@@usamasyedWow ! So rude. Cruelty free is a value for many people. I NEVER buy no cruelty free skincare or makeup. And i always check compagnies. Cause in Europe many say they are Cruelty free cause european law when in fact they test. So sorry Sir but for me, cruelty free is VERY important.
Thank you for putting this out there. Someone had to say it, and I'm glad you did.
I really enjoy trying different affordable beauty products and I rarely repurchase skincare. When there is nothing new and exciting at the drugstore I usually buy a Korean product. They churn out skincare so fast so there is always something new and affordable to try. I’m like a little kid that wants a shiny new toy, lol!
haha that's actually refreshing to hear about it spoken of in that kind of hobbyist way! I think it's the truth for a lot of people but they hide behind it being medical
As a person who is in love with korean skincare products , this video is actually helpful 😂. skincare is really personal for a consumer and it's okay to buy products that you enjoy them. The famous BOJ sunscreen is my beloved product especially for my very dehydrated acne prone skin ( i still need to increase my water intake tho 🤣). I tried the snail mucin essence from cosrx and it's okay-ish, i mean it does help in hydration but not that revolutionary or helpful for hyperpigmentation . Also, I believe in Dr Shereene Idriss about what she says about HA , it dried me out when i use it on daily basis so I use it only 3 times a week. what i love about korean skincare philosophy is the emphasis on soothing and moisture barrier healing ( which is actually why maany people dealing with acne , excess oil , bumpy skin found it really helpful )
And as a new mom , it's impossible for me to do more than 3 steps for a skincare routine ! Some days the most i did is washing my face with plain water 😆
haha yep! As a new dad the skincare routine is often bottom of the priority list!
@@usamasyed now u can enjoy baby skin without skin care routine ☺️
About the sunscreen testing, Lab Muffin from Australia, with professional background in skin chemistry, did a really good video explaining how international SPF testing is structurally patchy - therefore the different results. She also mentioned that big western skincare brands have had SPF scandals in the past. I would love to see a sunscreen video from you
But there was a video by a Korean organization that testing korean popular sunscreen using the newest instrument that can give a higher SPF result, but even with that, the SPF in some popular Korean sunscreen still far from SPF 50+.
I follow her too
Congratulations on the new addition to your family! This topic is sure to be a magnet for comments. I appreciate your honesty about where you don't see or do see value in the products. I have to say, I am a Korean skincare fan. At the age of 50, I can testify to the products working well for me 7 years into starting with their product lines. I find the products cost-effective and gentle. That being said, the main thing I wish more dermatologists would lead with is, "What I can give you to put on your skin will have minimal influence on the health of your skin vs what you eat.'" I have seen far too many dermatologists push products (especially their own).
thanks for covering this topic Dr Usama! ❤
Thank you for bringing this up. I also feel the same.
Always very enjoyable, even if I have the toners and serums. Great job on this video, Dr! Congratulations on the new son ❤
Thank you!
Many thanks for another great video, and congrats on the new baby (sorry, I'm a new subscriber so probably waaaay late to the party, lol). I found some nice Korean moisturizers that actually moisturized without my face feeling like it's on fire, my eyes watering and going red, and getting reminders of my teen years by getting reacquainted with breakouts. Having said that, I use a fair amount of herbs (I grow them in my organic garden, with no chemicals of any kind) not only externally but also as spices in my cooking. One of my faves for clear complexion is stinging nettle (steep as tea and rinse face with after washing). I couldn't care less about some 10-step routine, or fancy toners, but I also find that all these excessive amounts of makeup women (mostly but not an exception) cake on their faces is probably having some long term effect on the facial aging as well. I keep it simple: evening routine - wash with Dove soap and tepid water, rinse with cold water (or nettle), apply light moisturizer, that's it. Morning: same as evening but add a tiny amount of Vichy concealer all over, and I'm good to go. Getting enough sleep works better than those endless layers of chemicals slapped on faces with equally endless array of brushes.
Like the doc said: All you need is a cleanser, sunscreen, moisturizer and possibly a retinoid. That's it. End of discussion.
I like Asian sunscreen (Korean and Japanese) not because they are necessarily superior but because they are usually lightweight and non-greasy. I hate the feeling of thick greasy western sunscreens on my skin so I opt for Asian ones. That's about it. Everything else is all the same.
Agreed!
Not true. Everyone is different. I have very dry skin with rosacea somethimes and it is not enough for me. I need more. Niacinamid when rosacea appears and HA for more moisture.
Seriously, I want to know who has time for a 10 step routine every night.
Thank you so much for this video, I wanted to know what the Korean skincare hype was about and if it was actually evidence based. This has been really informative.
My pleasure!
OMG I can’t express how much I love this video😍 This is just brilliant!
Thank you!
We need more of these straightforward videos :)
hopefully I can provide!
I don't like the focus on exotic ingredients with no (or little) evidence, but I've heard how the formulation and textures are better, and I want to try that out
Let me know what you think once you’ve experienced them!
congratulation on being the new dad 💐 I've recently subscribed your channel and I'm already liking it ☺
Thank you!
Thank you for this educational, evidence-based video. I also appreciate your wit.😆
And congrats to you & your growing family! 🥳👼
Thank you!!
Congratulations on your baby!🎊☮️💜
Thank you!!
The Korean skincare craze is kind of fascinating to me, it's blown up so much lately. When I got into it in the mid 2010s it was accessible and understandable in a way Western skincare wasn't. Like, it was easier for me to find what I needed (basically just better marketing) at a price I could afford. In the online spaces, there was a big focus on understanding what things did - why use or not use a BHA/AHA/both? Vitamin C? What should I look for in a moisturizer, what worked for people who had similar skin issues as me? That was around the time The Ordinary launched, which promoted that idea as well.
I never did the whole ten million step thing though, that always seemed like more of a celebrity thing. Like how celebrities whose job usually includes, you know, looking good, also have super workout regimens and personal chefs (and, yeah, dermatologists, cosmetic surgeons, and aestheticians on speed dial). I suspect that a person who has the interest and spends the time (and money) on a seven/ten/twelve/fourteen step skincare routine probably also does other things to promote overall skin health, because they have an interest in it.
And at this point it's more of an "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" situation for me. I'm happy with the results I get, so I stick with the products I like. I've learned to understand the marketing language, what different buzz words mean, what products with different hype ingredients are aimed at (mostly if they're interesting to me or not ngl)...
Honestly though, I'm pretty sure that the most important factor that's affected my skin is that I'm doing, like, literally anything more advanced than washing my face with hand soap and occasionally throwing on whatever moisturizer was on sale at the grocery store 🤷😅
(And! Congratulations on the baby boy!!)
glad you've nailed a simple regimen that works for you! And thank you!
Nice one lad, I literally searched this yesterday and couldn’t find anything among the mass of HG’s.
Cheers!
glad I could help!
This is the best skincare vid ever! A good mix of humour and facts.
Very kind of you!
Ah! Finally! The truth! Though I do enjoy kbeauty skincare, I believe it is overhyped, it doesn’t negate their great formulas, ingredients or their affordable prices. I’ve learned to focus on what my skin needs, not on what’s in at the moment. Thank you 🙏 for this video! 😊
Perfect lesson to take away!
congrats on the new baby 👶🏻 🎉
I LOVE this kind of info. Keep up the good work!🙏 An overdose of fake beauty news is definitly out there.
Thank you for your precious and qualitative content
My pleasure!
Glad you’re back! Congratulations on entering fatherhood. :)
This video is so detailed yet accessible. Really entertaining too. Your breakdown is really helpful to understand “natural” ingredients.
Looking forward to learning more from you!
Thank you for the kind words and the congratulations on fatherhood! So glad you enjoyed it, and hoping to get my rhythm back if baby Zak will allow it hahaa
I hoped to hear about bakuchiol in this video bc I heard it a lot in Korean skincare. But this has been a funny and informative video! Good job!
Bakuchiol on my future list!
I love a man of science. Thank you for your content and please keep doing what you’re doing as long as you enjoy it!
Thank you!
Good points, especially about Korean celebrities and so many factors influencing Korean beauty beyond the products themselves.
Thanks!
Fun fact the US has also had a similar sunscreen debacle but I wasn’t reported on as much as the Korean one. I believe neutrogena and a few other popular conglomerates were involved
We had a worse scandal where a bunch of our sunscreens contained benzene! The American sunscreen industry is nothing to be proud of lol
The scandal was not remotely analogous, having nothing to do with incorrect SPF values.
Finally, someone in the skincare space who doesn't feed us absolute BS for clicks and endorsement deals. I can't take most of these skincare content creators. Thank you for being a breath of fresh air in what has become such a stale environment.
Ahh thank you!
I felt like I needed to hear that! Thank you as always for the insights Dr. Syed 🙏🏼
My pleasure!
This video was both informative, entertaining and humorous. Loved it!
thank you!!
Korean American here!
The Korean skincare hype is real but I believe there are more qualitative reasons that you haven't touched on. It seems like a lot of your information is coming from the hype that's been happening abroad, as opposed to how the average Korean person takes care of their skin. You touched on many valid points of why Koreans in general may have better skin due to diet, obesity, and cosmetic surgery but failed to mention many of the reasons why Koreans may be taking better care of their skin as a whole.
You're also pointing at the use of "natural" ingredients and seeing it through a western lens. This isn't like the US where things can be labeled, "100% natural" as a deception tactic into making people believe they're using something free of chemicals and etc. It's the philosophy of using what's found in nature and being able to harness its benefits with the use of science. If you introduced a product that was on the completely opposite side of the spectrum, like some lab grown product that used stem cells, Koreans would use it just the same (given that it was proven to be safe and effective)
You also point out plastic surgery as if it's a justification of why Koreans may have better skin. In reality, those statistics are heavily skewed by two procedures. 1- Double eyelid surgery 2- nose jobs. Neither of those have anything to do with how Korean skincare products are bought or sold. Using surgery as a factor of why Korean skincare may be overhyped doesn't make sense to me, as it's apples and oranges. HOWEVER, Koreans definitely do go to dermatologists and get treatment done WAY more than the average person on the US. Men and women regularly get facials, and laser treatment done over there. This would definitely be a contributing factor as to why the average Korean's skin may be better as well. Also, I believe a big contributing factor to this k-beauty hype is accessibility. Asian Americans now have access to skincare products that were designed to work with their skin type. The most ubiquitous products in the US always made me break out or would just not work for me, especially sunscreens and moisturizers.
Korean society is pretty shallow and judges everyone based on looks much more than they do here in the states. There's much more pressure to stay in shape, have good skin, and be at a healthy weight. Thus, the skincare industry is booming over in Korea. Korean companies have much more competition when it comes to products, as a much higher percentage of the population invests in skincare. This tends to keep skincare much cheaper than what is produced in the US. Social pressure to be healthier and look better + wider accessibility means that the average Korean knows more about skincare and invests in it vs the average American. Koreans are also having to deal with terrible air pollution and are often at the top when it comes to countries that get the least sleep. They try to circumvent these issues by investing into skincare.
I know of very few people in Korea that use an actual 10 step routine and it's generally considered common knowledge that you have to find what's right for you. People try lots of products before finding something that works specifically for them. Compare that to the average American dude who barely knows what moisturizer is. Like with any industry that has a significant foothold in society, the 8-10 step routine was a trend. I guess that's what western countries still think Korean skincare is, which is weird. It's like saying American food is greasy because Five Guys and Shake Shack are so popular in Korea.
I don’t see how your explanation of ‘natural’ ingredients is any different than what I said in the video… it’s not deceptive meaning it doesn’t ‘come from nature’ - I’ve never claimed that. My claim is, natural itself means nothing in terms of how good something is for you, and you can make a claim that anything truly is natural in a way.
As for the cosmetic surgery: South Korea has the highest rates of Botox and filler in the world… what does that have to do with eyelid surgery? I gave that as an independent figure, and those 100% do make a big impact on skin.
I agree that Korean society is obsessive about skincare, but not sure what that’s supposed to dispute from my video…
The point of my video is: “hey western people, stop thinking Korean skincare is a miracle skincare movement because you see Koreans with great skin and assume it’s from their products. In reality, there’s a bunch of other factors why their skin looks better that you can’t substitute for some snail mucin and expect the same results.” What part of that do you disagree with?
@usamasyed In regards to products being "natural", I'm referring to how Western Countries (in particular the US) uses that a means of marketing tactic and agreeing with that point. I'm not saying YOU are being deceptive but rather what many American companies tend to do with the word "natural". Your video is claiming that natural means nothing and that's true from a Western lens. What I'm talking about is the lens in which Koreans view ingredients derived from nature and how it differs from that of a western point of view. I'm pointing out that the word "natural" has different connotations based on culture. It's the same connotation that you seem to be making at 12:14, pointing out the irony of cosmetic surgery vs using "natural" ingredients. Comments like that come off to mean something akin to , "Korean products are trying to deceive us as being natural", rather than that hype coming from non-Koreans. The irony you mention only exists if there's a pretense that Korean skincare products are marketed as "natural", juxtaposed to how much cosmetic surgery goes on there.
With cosmetic surgery, I'm pointing out that you're giving two figures that are independent from each other. I completely agree with your point on botox and filler and how that contributes to the overall impact on skin. However, you're using the metrics of cosmetic plastic surgery but not considering what those percentages are derived from. Your chart at 11:49 shows stats on cosmetic plastic surgery. Is this specifically facial cosmetic surgery or cosmetic plastic surgery in general? If it's the latter, those statistics would be skewed by procedures such as breast augmentation and liposuction. Even if it's the former, what percentage of the 13.4% is taking double eyelid surgery and rhinoplasty into consideration (procedures that have nothing to do with improving the condition of your overall complexion)? What I'm trying to say is that you're using those statistics in making your overall point, yet I don't understand how those metrics can be used to do so when the numbers aren't representative of their correlation to Korean skincare specifically. You're using data that isn't specific to the points that you're making. If we're going to draw those kinds of conclusions, why not point out stats such as ,"55% of Americans admit to not washing their face daily; 48% of them say they never use a cleanser to do so" , which is based on research done by Cerave.
You seem to be taking a lot of what I said as disputing what you've said in the video but I'm just offering different and more qualitative perspectives as to what contributes to the hype around Korean skincare. You said at the start of your video that you'd be covering the ingredients, philosophies, and approaches that define Korean skincare. I just didn't agree with your perspective on those philosophies. How can you understand the philosophy behind an industry without understanding its culture? My point was to give a cultural perspective behind those philosophies.
Don't get me wrong. I completely agree with the overall point that you're making. Korean skincare isn't a miracle movement. I just don't agree with your use of statistics and see how someone can misconstrue the facts that you've put together in this video to mean something else. I can see someone who knows nothing about Korean skincare watching this video and thinking, "I guess it's just all hype". I believe that you're seeing things from the perspective of someone who has witnessed lots of people claiming Korean beauty products to be some sort of miracle cure-all. In contrast, I'm seeing this through the lens of having witnessed many things labeled as "hype" or "overrated", often being dismissed as something ineffective or snake-oil. Weird comparisons like the overall complexion of Koreans to cosmetic surgery dismiss the fact that Koreans (as a whole) just take better care of their skin.
God i aint reading all that
Thank you, Korean American!
It's actually what "the US" people think about Korean skincare, because in my country there are other myths and tales about it. I started using some Korean products regularly because they were better than average here and helped me with my skin problems.
a lot of these "korean skincare trends" are not even from korea, odile monod explains this in many of her videos
Congratulations on your new baby! Enjoy your informative and no “BS” content! Mahalo!
Thank you!!
Really liked hearing your perspective! 🎉
Thank you!
I learned about cica or centella from k beauty. That is awesome! It fixed my poison ivy, nettle rash and any type of redness. It took my skin from bright red back to normal. I hope they put it in first aid and eczema creams.
Centella has good evidence tbf!
I like the cica/centella for my skin after cosmetic procedures like electrolysis and dermaplanning. And the snail mucin is a god send.
Thank you for this video I was so close to jump on the double cleansing wagon and I have extremely dry skin so I’m going to stick to my CeraVe which actually I started using after watching your video.
So happy to hear this!
Thankyou for your honest and informative videos 😭 you've earned yourself a new subscriber 🙌 im new to skincare and find it hard to believe all these influencers as most of them are sponsored videos 😢
Oh mine! This video is brief yet packed with value. thank you.
Love this roast so much 🔥🔥🔥 as an asian I know firsthand how toxic asian beauty standard is. SO glad to see all the bs being called out here. So sick of products after products being released without much evidence of their benefits. There is an ENORMOUS amount of products, in both skincare and also makeup, that is released in asia without even being dermatologically tested. And I hate it so much when their salesperson always approach me (because my face is so red) and tell me "this product is good for your sensitive skin! It's fully made of natural ingredients!" NO THANKS, YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT MY SKIN IS GOING THROUGH. It's so satisfying to watch this video. Thank you doctor. 🙌
So glad it resonated! Took me a while but I really wanted to do a deep dive!
LOL at the time the 10-step method takes to help reduce sun exposure. I'm with you on a lot of this, and I almost exclusively use Korean skin care. You talked about everyone's skin being different and that's true. I have dehydrated skin and can double-cleanse without issue because I found the right combo. In the same vein, I find toners nearly essential to keep my skin from drying out throughout the day and especially in the winter. But for my lifestyle, sheet masks are grossly unnecessary, and the "essence" category is totally made up. If you listen to content creators try to explain what it is, they can't even really tell you; they just kind of have to talk "around" it. Plus, they have first AND second essences. Come on. I don't know how popular bee venom actually is (I don't see it being pushed much to Western consumers at any rate), but the others are quite ubiquitous. As for sunscreen, Korea is the only reason I can stand to wear it (US filters hurt my skin/eyes, zinc oxide desiccates my face, and most formulas sit so heavy that they make me sweat--yeah, I run hot). It's also, by and large, CHEAP. So you can actually use as much as you need to. There's a LOT to sift through and it's easy to get sidetracked by whatever the latest made-up marketing ingredients many of those companies are using. Do your research and choose products that are evidence-based. And your last point about the prevalence of cosmetic surgery in South Korea is an excellent one. Thank you for the perspective!
thanks for the thoughtful reply! agree that the US sunscreen market is full of terrible options, hopefully that can change in the future because it's much needed!
Yeah, when I hear influencers explain the difference between essences and toners and serums I kinda feel second hand embarrassment for them.
To me toners and essences and sometimes even serums are the same thing. You don’t necessarily need all 3.
I look at those products as delivery vehicles for different ingredients that wouldn’t be able to be formulated all together in the same product.
For example I use 2 toners. 1 has BHA, I only use it a few times a week. The other is a hydrating toner I use twice a day.
I have 1 “essence” that I use because it has 4-5% niacinamide (customer service wouldn’t tell me the exact percentage, just that it was 4-5%) that I use just for that ingredient.
I’d actually get rid of my hydrating toner if the essence came in a larger bottle so I could feel better about putting it on in layers to get more hydration. It doesn’t offer enough hydration in just 1 layer but I don’t want to go through the bottle in less than a month by applying multiple layers so I just apply 1 layer and then 2 or 3 layers of my hydrating toner and then use my moisturizer and I’m set.
@@edienandyYou are so right that those three categories of products are running together more and more. The textures can vary so wildly that it's not even necessary to use them in the traditional toner > serum order anymore because you can be using an incredibly watery serum alongside a toner so viscous that you need to invert the sequence.
So glad I discovered your channel. Love your humor/humour! The bit about the US not having any new sunscreens since the 1990's and the time comparison pics at 7:56 was so brilliant 😆
Hi!
I have a few questions, and i hope you can answer them all 🙂
1. did some research on both Retinoid and Retinol, and came to the conclusion that Retinoid is by far the better choice. I came across this one: Differin Adapalene Acne Gel with 0.1%. Is this the best one without a prescritpion?
2. You have a routine were you need a moisturizer, i normally use cold pressed Argan oil (Without Retinoid), is this a good moisturizer instead of using for example the CeraVera moisturizer? I don't know if Argan oil is good because of the oily texture, combined with Retinoid?
3. Is it better that you first put on the moisturizer and than Retinoid? Or can you blend/mix the moisturize with Retinoid and put that mix on your face?
4. I live in a country with a lot of sun, in the morning you wash of your face, so with that the Retinoid. After doing the routine, and 50spf sunscreen, am i able to sit in the sun without getting irritated because of the Retinoid?
Thank you!!
The 10 step routine is created by American or someone else to make people buy more products, I live in Korea for all my life and never once we heard about the 10 step or 20 step etc, etc... Nobody have time for that, most of us here only use 3-5 products and 2 of that products are cleansers.
That’s really interesting to hear!! Wouldn’t surprise me if it was ‘turbocharged’ here to make more money. Let’s speak out against it from every country in that case!
same i was utterly confused at when people would bring up the whole 10 step korean routine because it was never a thing in korea, then there is the gimmicky character sheet masks which no one used except for kids doing on school trips
Congrats to both of you for the baby!! Best of wishes
Edit: I snorted with the natural botox snippet LMAO
hahaa the snort laughs are what I live for! and thank you!
We need more like you. Congratulations for your family!
New subscriber here. I really like the content and the honesty of your videos (and the fine sense of humour too :). And congratulations on your new born baby boy!
thank you so much!
Tiktok definitely made Kbeauty overhyped. When I visited South Korea last year it real hard to get my hands on popular items. The Ten step is basically pure marketing and not even true somebody in the West visiting Asia took what they saw in Asia and ran with it. Also a lot people don't know the the similarities and difference between Essence, ampoules, and serum. Also, Kbeauty affordable and I would most likely buy k-beauty over American one based price alone especially when I was in college/working minimum wage. And Koreans go to dermatologist on weekly to monthly bases they take the derm seriously if they can afford it outside of other surgical procedures. I actually had really bad acne in my teens and sensitive skin but my derm gave me a protocol to follow usual doctors will but you accutaine back then but it was cleanse, toner, (retinol) treatment, moisturizer and spf for the day time. If you hyperpigmentation then most will buy 1-3. because it's usually a hit or miss.
Personally, love formulations of Kbeauty which the motto was always gentle and I found American brands back as a teen to be very harsh and drying but now we have options which I think Kbeauty help push brands to do better. People are just noticing Koreans/Asians and I have been listening and watching to K-pop/dramas for over 10years and watching.
I love a good sheet mask one a week ( sheet masks are magical!) and a Korean lightweight sunscreen ❤️
which one in particular?
Good to see you back
Good to be back!
I had cystic acne before - tried all American products- went to dermatologist- it was so bad nothing helped until I tried Korean Skin Care 8 years ago - before the hype- only Korean Skin care products got rid of my acne… their products is real.
Hey Usama! Great video. I think a lot of westerners are attracted to Korean/Asian skincare for their focus on barrier repair, hydration and not over exfoliating or using harsh ingredients. For example, Benzoyl Peroxide can really irritate skin. I’m not even sure Koreans actually do a “10 step routine.” It’s just a marketing trap for westerners to fall into.
Do you have any thoughts on LabMuffinBeauty? She’s a cosmetic chemist phD, very upfront on sponsors and has done a video on reddit’s favorite kbeauty/asianbeauty products, (czcams.com/video/Cn9PoYftNlA/video.html) but it’s still hard to parse through which of these (or the list of products from any of her other videos) might actually be worth our time.
Benzoyl peroxide is also excellent for acne treatment though. And I’d argue the ‘western’ skincare ingredients of ceramides, glycerin, mineral oil etc. are even better at barrier repair!
not too familiar with lab muffin but seems scientific focused!
@@usamasyed Indeed. BP has been helpful for my acne, but it also irritated my sensitive skin quite a lot.
Lab Muffin is great for information on ingredients, debunking product claims and "trendy" skincare studies.
But no one can tell you the best product for You. I find she usually makes an effort to explain the product characteristics, not just her opinion, and say to whom it might be good for. But in the end, it's still her opinion. No influencer will be able to give you that information though, you'll always need to experiment after doing your research
@@auricia201 of course!
Loved the video. Super helpful. However I wished I saw this video a week back before purchasing an entire Korean products line LOL
hahaa definitely doesn't mean the products are bad! I just think people are weirdly obsessed with them...
Congratulations on your little one. I really enjoyed watching this video because you're funny yet kinda educational.
Thank you!! Kinda educational is my sweet spot!
Dunno about you but I've switched to Korean skincare 6 years ago and my skin has never looked better
Information, truth and humor 🙏🏼👍🏼👏🏼🤣
Thank you!!