Can’t say how much I appreciate this. Had to go down forum and CZcams rabbit holes looking for answers. This helped me get my 2-door yukon back on the road with a safe brake pedal.
Thank you. I can’t tell you how many searches I did trying to get accurate information on bleeding these units. You summed it up in 5 min. What a lifesaver!!!
I have been looking for someone willing to offer an alternative to going to the predator mechanics who want to scalp their victims by ransom and you've given me an alternative. Thank you for your knowledgeable insight on this subject so few have the ability to offer.
This is great info for all of you that live in the south. If you're working on brake hydraulic systems in northern NY or anywhere else in the rust belt, you won't be able to loosen any bleeders or lines without breaking them.
Thanks, so few videos cover the AWAL module. Used pair of needle-nosed vise grips to hold valves closed, thought I was on internal bleeders, but you showed where they are.
I always did the 'muddy field' method of bleeding GM abs but I have to do a 1-ton dually now and not interested in trying to power slide it haha. So glad I found this, very well done tutorial.
Nicely done, but I found it ONLY by mistake after many, many others that don't apply! Mine is a "1993 GMC G2500 Vandura". There are MANY vids on how to repair the ABS, including RE-soldering the pc board, but NONE of them are THIS style as the housing and electronics are configured completely different. Therefore those instructions simply don't apply. Yours is identical to mine, so must cover 93's & prior. As others have mentioned, it would be REALLY helpful if you could add the YEAR to your title. Nice job!!!
It seems to be an Kelsey-Hayes 4WAL ABS, look also in this article: www.motor.com/magazinepdfs/061998_01.pdf and about blleding: www.aa1car.com/library/abs_kelseyhayes.htm
Great video. I'm going to help my dad bleed his 93 1500 truck with 4x4. Not sure if this applies but I'm watching videos today to see what I can learn thank you
thank you very much for that very informative video bud. i have that exact system and i have not been able to figure out how to bleed it until i just came across this video. i will try that tomorrow. Cheers
My abs is unplugged, thinking about deleting it altogether because they're a pain in the ass. Abs was designed for bad drivers or at least not very confident ones. Thanks for the interesting video tho
Thanks for this video it is so informative,at what point does this have to be done because I am just wondering if bleeding through the regular process which is through the four wheels of the vehicle can't get the problem of air in the system solved.
Thank you very much for the VERY USEFUL info!!, thanks to you and people like you have helped me greatly and helped save a huge chunk of money!!!, thanks again sir and keep up the great videos! Definitely subscribing!
Dude I've been trying to get my brakes are for two years.. I replaced everything but the abs module... I couldn't bleed it...just checked one of my power vals is extended out more than the other one ... if you could or would help that would be great and thanks again for your video
2003 Chev Avalanche... for HOURS I tried everything to bleed Brake system after replacing GM Kit All 7 factory steel lines, Truck was Running on 4 Jack stands all tires removed would NOT BLEED.... Then this worked Turn Key ON and DISCONNECT BATTERY leave sit for an Hour Then Pump and Bleed Brakes with Truck NOT Running and Battery Disconnected Tons more Air came out...
@@lawnservice492 I have 39 years Auto Body and do All my own repairs (this was a friends Chev Avalanche)... I had a friend pick me up a $300 scan tool that would run the ABS pump (Did NOT Open and returned the next day)... KEY was in the ON position when Battery was disconnected.... I finished Bleeding the Brakes with Battery disconnected and Key in On Position and Truck NOT running.... I'm guessing ABS pump relaxed its valves when battery power was drained...
@@lawnservice492 I also do a 1-man Brake Bleed.... Remove Clean and Grease All Bleeder Valves... install a 4 ft 1/8 inch Clear plastic Hose on 1 or all 4 Bleeder Valves.... Wire or Tape other end of 1/8 Clear Hose up high to a Chair or Step Ladder (Brake Fluid removes Paint so be careful) Fill 1/8 plastic Hose half full with Brake Fluid.... As Air Bubbles comes out Brake Fluid goes in, keep 1/8 plastic line half full.... If peddle pumping is required pump up and hold brake petal with collapsible hood rod then open bleeder valve...The 1/8 plastic hose works with Petal pumping and without... This method also works great on Hydraulic clutches removing super fine air bubbles.... I learned this by Mistake Sucking ALL the fluid out of my W124 Diesel Mercedes with ABS.... Hope this Helps
@@lawnservice492 The Rear Brakes Bleed quick and easy and they were both on a single line.... It was the Two Front Separate Brakes lines I was having the problems with getting fluid pass the ABS pump...
@@kelvenguard I’m working on a 2005 Tahoe it lost a rubber brake line and air entered the system. The shop couldn’t bleed the brakes bc they are not equipped apparently for this type job :) I have a mushy pedal and some braking power but not like before losing fluid. I’ll get back to you on how this process worked for me as I’m always reading these comments to find what is easiest and works. Thank you for the suggestion on CZcams sir!!!
can having air in the abs cause the left front brake to not release after normal braking or could it be something internal in the abs like a valve not opening to release pressure for that drivers front brake. i was having this problem so i replaced all 4 rotors, calipers and pads. it still does it. driver front brake gets extremely hot like 500F while the passenger is 100F. when i open the bleeder valve on the driver front calipers it spurts out fluid until the pressure is gone. i do that with the truck off. truck = 2009 chevy 2500hd quad cab 4x4 6.0 engine
Very nice video. Took forever to find it but very clear. Can the same thing be accomplished without the adaptors you fabricated and instead bleeding the 4 outlets above the two bleeders?
you mentioned pushing in on the high pressure pistons, but you never explained when in the process do you do that, or is it just holding them in place to keep them from popping or moving out of the position their already in?
nys 03 gmc yukon rust .abs power up motor by pulling wire and power it up. I may rebuild the system bypassing the damn thing I been driving patrol cars limo etc I know how to brake hate abs grab no grab
I saw a video that had a consumer-grade scan tool that would do this process but I cant find the video now. I have two scan tools and neither will preform this process. Do you know of a scan tool that has this feature? Good video and thanks for posting.
soylent green I now use an Autel DS808 and it has the brake bleed function. It is a pricey unit but I think the cheaper Autel units will do it to. Thanks for watching.
Just the video I'mookong for thanks seabass I have the same abs in my 93 suburban k2500 my problem is the ans letting fluid into my rear brakes and front passenger caliper not nothing to the driver side caliper do you think I have air in my abs system?
Hey man, excellent video really just what im looking for. I have a 93 Suburban and have codes 62, 66 and 86 I know 62 is a stuck reset switch which I am lead to believe is inside the 4wal unit. 66 is a open or bad pump motor relay and 86 is a shorted to B+ ABS indicator light. My brake light is also on but I do not have code 87 which is the code of shorted brake light. But I was reading ... In the event of a hydraulic failure that closes the pressure differential switch, both lights will illuminate and the ABS will be disabled. So I think I have a hydraulic issue in my 4wal system. Im going to try and bleed it before condeming the motor completely.
could this be why i have a modulator sensor popping up on my diagnostics? i replaced hubs, and master cylinder brakes were working ok but now it's like it's rubbing on something when i brake even at low speeds it kicks back at you
I replaced all the lines on my 01 Silverado, can't get fluid to the pass rear . Harbor Freight vacuum pump isn't working do I need to bleed the ABS? After removing all those lines
I hope somebody answers your question, because I did the exact same thing on my 00 Silverado and have the exact same issue. If I find an answer, I'll come back here and tell you.
@@jordansheppard6643 @Dirt Us I decided to take my 00 Silverado into a reputable shop. For me, it ended up being a faulty wiring harness between the EBCM and the pump motor. It was a $90 part, but much cheaper than the EBCM or the pump.
@@samkeychain4859 You may have to replace your master cylinder because the seals are worn or you should very carefully inspect the wheel cylinder or caliper in case they could have a fluid blockage or some other reason they are not allowing brake fluid through.
@@seabass295videos6 your welcome! your video was very helpful! i made up a couple of clamps myself,and im going to try it out on my 1993 gmc yukon in a few days! thanks! again for your helpful video , i will make sure to subcribe!!!
Don't do that. You can buy an Autel Maxi-pro diagnostic scanner W/abs function for about $200 off Amazon. It will do ABS on alot of cars and trucks 1996 & newer. There's also a cheaper one that plugs into your diagnostic port and links with your smartphone via bluetooth. That one is about $130-$150 ish. What it does is activates your abs motor to get the air bubbles out. Then you can manually bleed the air out of the lines. I finally bought one and did it myself. I took my 97 S-10 several places and I don't think they bled them correctly. After about a week my brake pedal kept getting mushy. After I ran the abs bleed function and manually bled them. My brakes are fixed 100% and pedal stays firm for about 3 weeks now. I bought the Maxi- pro bi-direcional scanner with ABS bleed function. And a pressure bleeding tool. I don't think you really need the pressure bleeding tool to do the job. I mostly work by myself and the pressure bleeding tool allows you to bleed brakes & clutch by yourself. You do need those internal piston lock out tools the guy made in this video. Proform makes them for about $20. You really only need 1 though. Bleed the back then switch the piston lock out tool to the other piston for the front and bleed the front.
MECHANIC BLEED BRAKES FRONT AN BACK AN STILL ONLY 20% PEDDLE ALMOST HIT FLOOR, SOMEONE TOLD ME BLEED ABS DID NOT KNOW NEEDED TO. IS THIS WHY BRAKES WONT GIVE ME MUCH PEDDLE ???????????
Can I use your video with credits for new video production I am trying to do to show how to repair brakes on my 1994 Astro Van LT EXT two wheel drive including the Kelsey Hayes 4WAL ABS? I have software that can record anything on my screen but I would not use your video as a segment without your okay.
@@seabass295videos6 Given your demonstrated experience it would please me if you joined the Facebook group I founded today if you have time. The name of the group is RWAL 4WAL Kelsey Hayes ABS
I have been through three calipers and several pads before trying this and it’s my whole problem, thank you for sharing
Thank you kindly sir. You saved me a dealership trip.
Can’t say how much I appreciate this. Had to go down forum and CZcams rabbit holes looking for answers. This helped me get my 2-door yukon back on the road with a safe brake pedal.
Agreed! I cant believe nobody on the forums and FB groups does this. Everyone says take it to dealership, buy a Tech2, or delete 4WAL.
Thank you. I can’t tell you how many searches I did trying to get accurate information on bleeding these units. You summed it up in 5 min. What a lifesaver!!!
I have been looking for someone willing to offer an alternative to going to the predator mechanics who want to scalp their victims by ransom and you've given me an alternative. Thank you for your knowledgeable insight on this subject so few have the ability to offer.
This is great info for all of you that live in the south. If you're working on brake hydraulic systems in northern NY or anywhere else in the rust belt, you won't be able to loosen any bleeders or lines without breaking them.
Induction heaters are your friend. 😊
Thanks, so few videos cover the AWAL module. Used pair of needle-nosed vise grips to hold valves closed, thought I was on internal bleeders, but you showed where they are.
I always did the 'muddy field' method of bleeding GM abs but I have to do a 1-ton dually now and not interested in trying to power slide it haha. So glad I found this, very well done tutorial.
Did it work?
I can't thank you enough on this help, again I have bought a chilton, no luck. The garage told me $800.00 for a complete computer bleed, lol.
Thanks
Nicely done, but I found it ONLY by mistake after many, many others that don't apply!
Mine is a "1993 GMC G2500 Vandura". There are MANY vids on how to repair the ABS, including RE-soldering the pc board, but NONE of them are THIS style as the housing and electronics are configured completely different. Therefore those instructions simply don't apply.
Yours is identical to mine, so must cover 93's & prior. As others have mentioned, it would be REALLY helpful if you could add the YEAR to your title. Nice job!!!
Tim Fleischauer thanks for watching.
It seems to be an Kelsey-Hayes 4WAL ABS, look also in this article: www.motor.com/magazinepdfs/061998_01.pdf and about blleding: www.aa1car.com/library/abs_kelseyhayes.htm
Great video. I'm going to help my dad bleed his 93 1500 truck with 4x4. Not sure if this applies but I'm watching videos today to see what I can learn thank you
Awesome video. Very descriptive. Had to bleed my 4wal on my 93 blazer
Just scrap the abs and put proportioning valve with 5 ports. Kind of like old school trucks without abs
my comment also goes to this. i been driving 60 yrs cop cars limo trucks etc abs I disconnect the fuse when snow comes to nys
thank you very much for that very informative video bud. i have that exact system and i have not been able to figure out how to bleed it until i just came across this video. i will try that tomorrow. Cheers
Did it work?
My abs is unplugged, thinking about deleting it altogether because they're a pain in the ass. Abs was designed for bad drivers or at least not very confident ones. Thanks for the interesting video tho
Thanks for this video it is so informative,at what point does this have to be done because I am just wondering if bleeding through the regular process which is through the four wheels of the vehicle can't get the problem of air in the system solved.
Thank you very much for the VERY USEFUL info!!, thanks to you and people like you have helped me greatly and helped save a huge chunk of money!!!, thanks again sir and keep up the great videos! Definitely subscribing!
Excellent information.
Great video I'll be trying this method out later today
Dude I've been trying to get my brakes are for two years.. I replaced everything but the abs module... I couldn't bleed it...just checked one of my power vals is extended out more than the other one ... if you could or would help that would be great and thanks again for your video
2003 Chev Avalanche... for HOURS I tried everything to bleed Brake system after replacing GM Kit All 7 factory steel lines, Truck was Running on 4 Jack stands all tires removed would NOT BLEED.... Then this worked Turn Key ON and DISCONNECT BATTERY leave sit for an Hour Then Pump and Bleed Brakes with Truck NOT Running and Battery Disconnected Tons more Air came out...
Can you explain how you think this opens the abs to allow full bleeding process?
@@lawnservice492 I have 39 years Auto Body and do All my own repairs (this was a friends Chev Avalanche)... I had a friend pick me up a $300 scan tool that would run the ABS pump (Did NOT Open and returned the next day)... KEY was in the ON position when Battery was disconnected.... I finished Bleeding the Brakes with Battery disconnected and Key in On Position and Truck NOT running.... I'm guessing ABS pump relaxed its valves when battery power was drained...
@@lawnservice492 I also do a 1-man Brake Bleed.... Remove Clean and Grease All Bleeder Valves... install a 4 ft 1/8 inch Clear plastic Hose on 1 or all 4 Bleeder Valves.... Wire or Tape other end of 1/8 Clear Hose up high to a Chair or Step Ladder (Brake Fluid removes Paint so be careful) Fill 1/8 plastic Hose half full with Brake Fluid.... As Air Bubbles comes out Brake Fluid goes in, keep 1/8 plastic line half full.... If peddle pumping is required pump up and hold brake petal with collapsible hood rod then open bleeder valve...The 1/8 plastic hose works with Petal pumping and without... This method also works great on Hydraulic clutches removing super fine air bubbles.... I learned this by Mistake Sucking ALL the fluid out of my W124 Diesel Mercedes with ABS.... Hope this Helps
@@lawnservice492 The Rear Brakes Bleed quick and easy and they were both on a single line.... It was the Two Front Separate Brakes lines I was having the problems with getting fluid pass the ABS pump...
@@kelvenguard I’m working on a 2005 Tahoe it lost a rubber brake line and air entered the system. The shop couldn’t bleed the brakes bc they are not equipped apparently for this type job :)
I have a mushy pedal and some braking power but not like before losing fluid. I’ll get back to you on how this process worked for me as I’m always reading these comments to find what is easiest and works. Thank you for the suggestion on CZcams sir!!!
Do I have to do this procedure if I replace a rear wheel cylinder? Having an issue bleeding.
can having air in the abs cause the left front brake to not release after normal braking or could it be something internal in the abs like a valve not opening to release pressure for that drivers front brake. i was having this problem so i replaced all 4 rotors, calipers and pads. it still does it. driver front brake gets extremely hot like 500F while the passenger is 100F. when i open the bleeder valve on the driver front calipers it spurts out fluid until the pressure is gone. i do that with the truck off. truck = 2009 chevy 2500hd quad cab 4x4 6.0 engine
Thank you for your video very kind great work man
Question when do you re tighten the 10mm internal bleeder. Have copied your bolt & square tube, Clever.
Thats what i want to know
Very nice video. Took forever to find it but very clear. Can the same thing be accomplished without the adaptors you fabricated and instead bleeding the 4 outlets above the two bleeders?
thanks for the help, now to work
you mentioned pushing in on the high pressure pistons, but you never explained when in the process do you do that, or is it just holding them in place to keep them from popping or moving out of the position their already in?
I just did the dirt road maneuver, with many ruts and bumps driving at 40 mph doing about 15 hard foot pedal stopspedalabs
this also turned off annoying instrument panel beak light
thanks so much. great video. great make shift tool.
nys 03 gmc yukon rust .abs power up motor by pulling wire and power it up. I may rebuild the system bypassing the damn thing I been driving patrol cars limo etc I know how to brake hate abs grab no grab
Awesome video man
I saw a video that had a consumer-grade scan tool that would do this process but I cant find the video now. I have two scan tools and neither will preform this process. Do you know of a scan tool that has this feature? Good video and thanks for posting.
soylent green I now use an Autel DS808 and it has the brake bleed function. It is a pricey unit but I think the cheaper Autel units will do it to. Thanks for watching.
Just the video I'mookong for thanks seabass I have the same abs in my 93 suburban k2500 my problem is the ans letting fluid into my rear brakes and front passenger caliper not nothing to the driver side caliper do you think I have air in my abs system?
Hey man, excellent video really just what im looking for. I have a 93 Suburban and have codes 62, 66 and 86 I know 62 is a stuck reset switch which I am lead to believe is inside the 4wal unit. 66 is a open or bad pump motor relay and 86 is a shorted to B+ ABS indicator light.
My brake light is also on but I do not have code 87 which is the code of shorted brake light. But I was reading ... In the event of a hydraulic failure that closes the pressure differential switch, both lights will illuminate and the ABS will be disabled. So I think I have a hydraulic issue in my 4wal system. Im going to try and bleed it before condeming the motor completely.
Greg Baker thanks for watching.
Ive got a 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500. Will my truck have these bleeders installed from the factory or will I have to install them myself? Thanks
Do you bleed tbe abs unit first before bleeding the rest of the truck? Or do you bleed normally (starting from the rear ) and then bleed the abs unit?
waiting
Usually abs first
could this be why i have a modulator sensor popping up on my diagnostics? i replaced hubs, and master cylinder brakes were working ok but now it's like it's rubbing on something when i brake even at low speeds it kicks back at you
I replaced all the lines on my 01 Silverado, can't get fluid to the pass rear . Harbor Freight vacuum pump isn't working do I need to bleed the ABS? After removing all those lines
I hope somebody answers your question, because I did the exact same thing on my 00 Silverado and have the exact same issue. If I find an answer, I'll come back here and tell you.
@@limbicresponse9077 me too
@@jordansheppard6643 @Dirt Us I decided to take my 00 Silverado into a reputable shop. For me, it ended up being a faulty wiring harness between the EBCM and the pump motor. It was a $90 part, but much cheaper than the EBCM or the pump.
Yes..can someone help me also..bought a used abs pump for a 03 chev avalanche..no fluid coming out of rear brakes...8m stuck...I need help
@@samkeychain4859 You may have to replace your master cylinder because the seals are worn or you should very carefully inspect the wheel cylinder or caliper in case they could have a fluid blockage or some other reason they are not allowing brake fluid through.
if the unit is installed on the truck, does the motor have to be running to bleed the ABS unit?
Obviously this is for pre 2000 chev.
what year was the truck that had that unit?
do you know name of tool that you remade?
what to do if you don't have bleeder screws
thanks! helped alot!
Hanzel Fonferek thanks for watching.
@@seabass295videos6 your welcome! your video was very helpful! i made up a couple of clamps myself,and im going to try it out on my 1993 gmc yukon in a few days! thanks! again for your helpful video , i will make sure to subcribe!!!
Where can I buy a refurbished or reman 94 chevy full size 4wal module
Thanks Sir!
Mr. Privacy thanks for watching.
PLEASE EDIT and post WHAT YEARS this covers.
Ya what years does this cover genius
Looks to be 88-98 4 wheels abs module
Where can I get parts to repair the motor? I have one with a bad motor.
I have a 03 trailblazer if this doesn't work is it possible to eliminate the abs by rerouting the brake lines
Don't do that. You can buy an Autel Maxi-pro diagnostic scanner W/abs function for about $200 off Amazon. It will do ABS on alot of cars and trucks 1996 & newer. There's also a cheaper one that plugs into your diagnostic port and links with your smartphone via bluetooth. That one is about $130-$150 ish. What it does is activates your abs motor to get the air bubbles out. Then you can manually bleed the air out of the lines. I finally bought one and did it myself. I took my 97 S-10 several places and I don't think they bled them correctly. After about a week my brake pedal kept getting mushy. After I ran the abs bleed function and manually bled them. My brakes are fixed 100% and pedal stays firm for about 3 weeks now. I bought the Maxi- pro bi-direcional scanner with ABS bleed function. And a pressure bleeding tool. I don't think you really need the pressure bleeding tool to do the job. I mostly work by myself and the pressure bleeding tool allows you to bleed brakes & clutch by yourself. You do need those internal piston lock out tools the guy made in this video. Proform makes them for about $20. You really only need 1 though. Bleed the back then switch the piston lock out tool to the other piston for the front and bleed the front.
excellent
Does the high pressure pistons have to be depressed by the tool or is it just to hold it from coming out?
Joshua Cheatham needs to be held in. I don’t think you can put enough pressure on it with out a tool to keep it held in. Thanks for watching.
Would a 2 C clamps work if they're big enough
Thank You
MECHANIC BLEED BRAKES FRONT AN BACK AN STILL ONLY 20% PEDDLE ALMOST HIT FLOOR, SOMEONE TOLD ME BLEED ABS DID NOT KNOW NEEDED TO. IS THIS WHY BRAKES WONT GIVE ME MUCH PEDDLE ???????????
Gratitude
"Kick his ass Seabass"!!!! - dumb & dumber
Thx fo the video.
Can I use your video with credits for new video production I am trying to do to show how to repair brakes on my 1994 Astro Van LT EXT two wheel drive including the Kelsey Hayes 4WAL ABS? I have software that can record anything on my screen but I would not use your video as a segment without your okay.
That wound be fine
@@seabass295videos6 thanks
@@seabass295videos6 Given your demonstrated experience it would please me if you joined the Facebook group I founded today if you have time. The name of the group is RWAL 4WAL Kelsey Hayes ABS
Pickup low problem Ford fusion+
That's the early system NOT what you are looking for
u used the wrong brakes in the title!! we all almost died!!
07 has no bleeders on it.
Your intro is so loud it blows out my eardrums and then you go to a whisper.
Sell the tools you fabricated