Bleeding an ABS module with different methods - Brakes won't bleed - FIXED!
Vložit
- čas přidán 9. 03. 2022
- Here I am bleeding a ABS brake module again. This time I try a different method. Running my 4 wheel drive while on jack stands. It's a little tricky and somewhat dangerous, but if done correctly, is an efficient way to DIY bleed an ABS module.
If you enjoyed this video, please give it a like (it helps me out!) and browse through my channel for other informative and fun videos. If I’ve earned your subscription, please subscribe and click the bell icon so you will be notified when I post new content.
I appreciate the support!
-----------------------------------------------------
OFFICIAL DANINATOR MERCH IS AVAILABLE!
Check it out:
teespring.com/stores/the-dani...
Use Coupon Code: DAN10 to save 10%!
-----------------------------------------------------
SPONSORS:
CarParts.com - (PLEASE USE THIS LINK IF YOU ORDER PARTS FROM CARPARTS.COM) www.carparts.com/?...
-----------------------------------------------------
For business inquiries, please contact The Daninator at:
the_daninator@hotmail.com
Instagram: @the_daninator_yt
Vortec 4200 5300 4.2L 5.3L Trailblazer Failblazer Envoy Ascender Rainier Bravada Saab Chevy GMC Buick Isuzu Oldsmobile 4x4 Off Road headlights smoked headlights grille
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of The Daninator, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. The Daninator assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. The Daninator recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of The Daninator, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not The Daninator.
@carpartscom
#brakes #abs #failblazer - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Nothing is easy anymore, even bleeding brakes. Went thru exactly all of this in my '99 Suburban. What a pain! Thanks for sharing!
Such a headache. Putting the bleeder screw back on the abs modules wouldn’t be the worst idea! 😂
I'm having an issue with my 99 suburban also...replace the booster an back brakes an still shit pedal.
Tell me why you took the words out of my mouth i have a sponge for breaks
Is that the older square body style they made from the late 80s-late 90s? Or was that the "New body style" that was more rounded that lasted from the late 90s- mid 00s?
Ice got an obs yukon (97) and I just wanna know if this procedure will work for it too. Or is this method not applicable?
Going through it now on my 97 yukon. A pain indeed! Luckily I work at a shop with a scan tool that can auto bleed the abs.
I just did a Chevy Sierra 1500 yesterday and a friend of the guy who owned the truck stopped by with a vacuum pump that was attached to a reservoir to catch the old fluid, and he just connected it to the loosened front bleeders and sucked all the air out through the calipers while just slowly pumped the brake pedal. Tell you what, I couldn't believe how fast it got all the air out of the ABS system, I was just slight of amazed really.....
As soon as I get a little extra cash I'm going to get me one of those vacuum pumps.
Wow man that is crazy! I been dealing with the same problem and one thing I learned from this video. Is PATIENCE! Thanks for the info I been at it for 4 days ! Thanks again
Hey Dan. I just wanted to thank you for posting your videos on bleeding GM ABS brakes. I am on vacation towing our camper behind our 2003 Yukon XL and we blew a brake line going to the ABS unit. I ended up buying a pre-made brake line kit from NAPA and changed all the lines (at a camp ground) because they were all pretty crusty. I was having trouble getting the front brakes to bleed and found your videos while search for a way to get the air out of the ABS system. I tried to find a local shop to use a scan tool to cycle the pump but they were all booked with work for a week or more. I drove around and found an old gravel road and repeatedly got the ABS pump to cycle. On the way back to the camp ground I could tell the front brakes were coming back. My wife and I bled the brakes again and immediately got all the air out and thanks again for posting your videos! Vacation can now continue!
Awesome! I always appreciate hearing how the videos help out. 😎👍 glad your back to vacationing!
thanks for your video brother
Thanks for showing when things don't go as planned. It's a lot of help when someone shows how to work through problems like you had in this video.
Glad it was helpful!
Ah god I had a brake line snap and ran dry changed master cylinder twice, bled brakes 100 times still pedal to floor, 6 weeks without my car, I think I may also have air in abs module but not sure if the scan tool works on my vehicle, what a nightmare I'm sick of watching CZcams videos now 😂😂
Me too but my problem is with a 2014 Enclave that the dealer can't fix after multiple trips.
Figure it out?
I'm assuming you bench bled the master cylinder each time after removing its lines. If not, that's almost certainly the problem. You could have also gotten heinous amounts of air in the ABS module/lines when you changed master cylinders.
You mentioned your lines ran dry. Could be that your system is so incredibly dry that the pedal pump methods won't work well (except for MAYBE two man bleeding). The pedal pump methods rely heavily on vacuum in the brake lines when the pedal is released to draw in more brake fluid from the reservoir to the master cylinder. This vacuum in the brake lines is present due to the closed off bleeder in the case of two man bleeding, or fluid friction a la fluid viscosity in the case of open-bleeder-screw pedal pumping (aka one man bleeding). Either way though, if your lines are completely dry, the air in your lines will expand and contract too easily to pull much vacuum, meaning you'll never pull a full fluid charge from the reservoir when you release the pedal. That's all to say you need a fair bit of fluid already in your lines to use the pedal pump methods.
Solutions when your lines are completely dry include pressure bleeding (forcing fluid from the reservoir straight through the lines) or gravity bleeding (letting gravity slowly pull fluid from the reservoir down through the lines). Pressure bleeding is a lot faster but requires a compressor/pressurizer tool to supply pressure to the reservoir. Gravity bleeding is slower but cheaper; since you've already been waiting 11 months at this point though, I don't think time is much of a concern for you. XD
Same shit in my 2004 Saab like ughh
@@jakeace3695auto MaxiAP200 , I would recommend it , u can bleed ur own abs for about 50 bucks
You sir are a saint. I thought I was going to need a tow out of my own garage. That or a $2k Subaru-specific scan tool. This saved my butt.
Your a champion mate!!!!
Had no brakes.....I hate mechanics ripping me off.
Did the activate brakes on gravel road then bled the brakes again.
Winning!
im gonna try that,,did u have any luck on the gravel road,bleeding the abs ???,my cars on jacks the past week and i cant afford a device,,il try the gravel road
you get a much better indication of air coming out if you position your bottle well above the brake caliper so you can see the air bubbles rising. also prevents those pesky little air bubbles from going back up into the caliper.
YES!!! I was yelling at the video the whole time.
Bro, you went from summer to fall to winter trying to figure out this one issue, this is a huge compliment coming from me as a fellow CZcamsr, I noticed the tiny segments, good job buddy, I applaud you and I look forward to your future videos
Less expensive than harbor freight? Do tell I'm listening and I appreciate everything you've done thus far! Please I'm listening!
Bleeding it with the engine on and vehicle in park works on a lot of abs modules as well. My passat can't be bled unless you have the engine running while you do it. I don't have fancy scan tools so I figured it out on my own
i fought with brakes on 2002 s10 4x4 for three days and yr idea worked THANK YOU was done in 45 mins
Thanks for the video! I have 2003 GMC. About to do brakes and seen the video as I was scrolling. I replaced front calipers last year. Doing rears this time around. Skirts are rotted and my E brake is no good. SO.. toss all that in the wash basket and I'm contemplating doing the lines and everything. Correct me if I'm wrong but the envoys had ss brake lines from oem. SO hopefully I need not mess around to much with it. - I too wrestled with the ABS module and valve a while back and ABS light just came on after something like 5 years so. Again thanks and wish me luck ✌
Tip- I was able to bleed the abs on my 1995 GMC Sierra 2500 by starting the engine and jumping the OBD1 ports "A" and "H" periodically to make the ABS motor run while I pumped the brakes. Worked great and the brake warning light finally shut off after I had to replace a line to the rear passenger side.
wonder if that would work on a 97
That's a great hint! I'll have to see if I can translate those pins to their OBD II equivalents and give it a shot on my '97. If it works, I can wire a pushbutton to an OBD II connector plug and have a pretty convenient little tool.
If your Hub's got Holes rather than sticky out studs, put the Wheel Bolts in; else you'll bend the little screw that holds the Disc on when you hit the Brakes. Cheers for the help
There is some sort of valve that only comes into play when you are pumping up the brake pedal to get your 1-2 emergency brake uses when you are driving and get a brake line torn off or something like that. It is this valve that can thwart you when you are buddy bleeding the brakes, causing you yo have to do a bunch of cycles, especially if you have a bunch of air in the lines from replacing lots of brake system. If instead of going pump pump pump hold, you pump, then slide your foot to the side, like you are dumping the clutch, that faster return on the pedal helps the air bubble get down through the u bends in the brake lines, instead of just tromboning back and forth. Works on hydraulic clutches too, even ones like ford rangers where many good mechanics say you have to bench bleed them, you can bleed them on the vehicle.
It's like you were pushing a toy train into a tunnel, normal stomp stomp stomp method, you are grabbing a train car in the middle of the train, shoving whole front half of train into the tunnel, but then pulling it back out again cause you aren't letting go of that middle train car. With the side step method, you shove front half of train into tunnel, then lifting up your hand, grabbing the caboose, and shoving the second half of the train into the tunnel. I'd been a pro mechanic for almost 20 years before this crazy old meth addict mobile mechanic showed me this trick, he was literally the shadiest mechanic I've ever met, hah, but I will always be grateful to him for teaching me that trick.
Thanks for discussing all the options on the ABS
I used my friend's scanner to start up the ABS motor it worked. These ABS systems are garbage and not needed. If you brake in the wet and are coming up fast on a car you will hit it. These systems do nothing. I used to drive my old Camero in the 70s and used to go up to the snow and it had no ABS and I never ever had problems. This was just added BS.
Amen! GM ABS systems were notorious for letting the pedal go to the floor at low (i.e., parking lot) speeds. I permanently pulled the fuse on mine years ago, after it nearly caused a fender bender.
Best way I found was to power bleed them. With the vehicle running, have someone inside and push the brake pedal to the floor, hold and then open the bleeder valve. do this several times, until you have a solid pedal.
What if you can’t get no fluid still to your back breaks
That doesn't address the ABS module full of air. Ask me how I know.
You should open the bleed nipple with slight pressure on the pedal, press the brake pedal all the way down then close the nipple before allowing the pedal back up. The sealed calliper allows the master cylinder to develop the vacuum to suck in a full charge of fresh fluid. Not closing the bleed nipple reduces the 'suction at the master cylinder and allows fluid to pass forward and backward and can allow even more air in. One way to make this sort of job easier is with a little vacuum hand pump bleeder, it simply draws fluid from the reservoir through the master cylinder and out through the calliper taking the air with it. Also although some do it it's not a great idea to bleed a calliper without a pipe attached sufficient to allow a little fluid to rise out and show air being extracted, it also keeps brake fluid off paint etc.
I've had problems with vacuum bleeders just drawing in air through the bleeder screw threads instead. The stream of air bubbles doesn't get into the caliper per se, but it makes it harder to draw fluid out of the line or see how much air is actually coming out of the line when it's flooded by introduced air.
Attaching a vacuum bleeder while pumping the brakes would be a decent way of keeping constant vacuum on the brake lines if you're bleeding them yourself, though.
@@johnronkainen9445 Not uncommon, a little ptfe tape on the screw usually helps.
@@mercedesvan-doors34 Yep, also just learned the trick of putting rubber-safe grease around the threads to seal it that way as well.
Hey, try using a hand vacuum pump on the purge line to suck the air out and create a vacuum. That will also pull the fluid through the abs pump as well as fill the lines with brake fluid. Works for me!
Only z high quantity vacuum pump. That China crap is crap.
Thank you bro for posting this video it’s
A Life saver thanks again..
Dang so much for just bleeding it out!
I’m surprised it didn’t have a bleeder screw on the abs unit it self …
Nice job bud !
There is 2 bleeders on the abs module. 1 for the front wheels and 1 for the rear wheels. But there is a procedure to do it. Google how to bleed abs to your vehicle.
Try the undocumented bleed at the module procedure. It's cracking open the lines at the abs module after someone pumps and holds. It worked better/faster than a tech2 on those Kelsey Hayes gm modules.
That's the way I do it.
Cracking all 6 lines (in & out)? At the same time? Doesn't this method reintroduce air?
@@mwngw I'm assuming he means only the exit ports, as in the lines going from the module to the brakes.
wow. I've been all over the internet all day looking for an answer and this was it. On a random comment of a wacky youtube video. Thank you sir! God bless you😀
im on my second bleed on peoeot 207,,i cant afford that device,and cant drive to gravel road with no breaks,,il try that 1 u did on the jacks,,thanks,good video,,a simple break change turns into a nightmare,,
I did a van that had many lines needed replacing and One like yours going to the block and I spent 2 days and 3 quarts of fluid getting it bled properly.
I am a Mechanic from England UK, when we get that problem, get the driver to pump ,pump pump, up the pedal and keep it pressed. then undoe the niple and then do it up, try this multiple timres, usualy works, also you need to find out from the manufacturer weather you start from the furthest away or nearest to the master cylinder, makes all the differance,ans with engine on or off? find out these things before you start .MIKE HEATH LONDON
Hey Dan. Good video. Thanks for sharing.🍁👍👍
Great info, I tried the drive on gravel abs kicked in bled each caliper and still the same. Any advice? Thanks
I had a bleeder that wouldn't flow once. In my case, it was a blocked bleeder screw. Corrosion or debris had blocked the small bleeder tube in the screw. I used a paper clip to push around in the bleeder hole to clear the blockage and it worked fine after that.
Theory qualification here, I am working on this issue as well on my Tahoe that blew a wheel cylinder seal At 11:00, you pumped the pedal and suddenly voila. When the system has a safety mechanism which is a shuttle valve moving across a bore path (it's called a proportioning valve), the one half of system isn't getting flow. Engineered to do that, in compliance with NHTSA regulations, and that is why you can get the vehicle to stop when you blow a line. To return the shuttle valve to center, you have to pound the pedal (which is what you repeatedly trying to do), and release pressure on the opposite side which is holding pressure. Eventually, the darn contraption goes back to center, and allows the fluid flow to the side which blew out originally. We way over think this stuff. So knowing you blew a line, resolve proportion valve position (back to center), bleed the entry fittings into the ABS module, and see if you can cut the work time way down to a simple brake bleed.
Follow up. I had mashed the pedal down and rapidly opened the side of the system (front) that was bled and holding pressure. That did fix the combination valve on the 96 Tahoe which is built into the Kelsey Hayes ABS unit. I had also used computer to open ABS but was unsuccessful with only that procedure to get any fluid to the back half (wheel cylinder blew on my vehcile). Hope these comments save the next person a lot of aggravation at a task that isn't so difficult once you understand the safety features of the vehicle.
There’s a screw in fitting you have to use on that proportional valve to keep it from activating and make bleeding brakes easier.
Hi great video how long did it take to bleed the abs. I have bought a second hand abs unit i be putting in the car tomorrow with editing video altogether how long did it take you to bleed abs appreciate it. Just want an idea
nice job man. I need to do my 03 Envoy XL. I guess I really don't need the scan tool
Repeatedly quick hard pumping of pedal aireates fluid! Use slower, full strokes of pedal. & when it seems U getting nowhere, leave bleeder open, refill cylinder, leave cap off to let it gravity bleed. Leave it that way and take a 20 minute lunch/beer break.
ur method won't work,on and systems.this systems don't self bleed .
I usually gravity bleed before pumping but it didn't work through this abs module. Although when I filled the reservoir and had brake line semi loose, I could see an air bubble push out every 8 sec or so but even leaving it for 4 hrs, nothing came out
Could it not be pushing fluid because you have so much air in that one line that it just compresses that air and doesn't apply pressure to the other lines?
Thanks for your information 👍
Is there a video of the broken brake line from the abs ?
Good video on bleeding abs pump. When I changed out the valve modulator on mind I used the slide the tire method, it worked fine 👍.. ✌
What is the 'slide the tire' method?
@@jimbobjimbob8275 watch The Daninator video. Brakes won't bleed - Weak stream of brake fluid - Removing air pocket from ABS module - Fixed! It explains how, great video... ✌
did you tap on your proportioning valve if the vehicle has those anymore with the abs modules in them
There is no problem. It's a open front differential, that's exactly how it's supposed to be. Path of least resistance was the right front wheel (unless the right front wasn't spinning), so that wheel spun while the driver's side didn't. Your rear end will do the same if you don't have the G80 spec rear differential on your glove box build sheet
Don't forget, 4x4 didn't mean what it says. In 4x4, you have 2 when drive, unless you have the G80, then you have 3 wheel drive. They never offered a locker for the front. In 2wd, your actually 1 wheel drive unless you have the G80.
I’m embarrassed to admit I wasn’t thinking about that. I do have a brake issue however.
😆takes a man to go back and face the truth. Nice
@@LaPurr also with the GM G80 which is the Eaton in 2wd the posi traction only kicks in up to around 20 mph and if you keep your foot on the gas it will stay locked up till you let up on the gas. Like when you use the All Wheel drive it only kicks in when it senses a tire spinning.
GM G80 is a good differental being a 3:73 your gas mileage is not the best, yet these Trailblazers with the 4.2 the gas mileage is not the best anyways.
The 4.2 is known for misfires due to worn valve seats, which I have a 2002 sitting with about 105k that need new valve seats, not sure if I want to do it or junk it or Parr it out. No leaks, everything works and runs great besides the misfire
@@DavidGuns Not going to lie.. I know very little about the 4.2. My Envoy has the V8 with 370k miles, and my 9-7x also has the V8 with 162k miles. Both run like a dream. Its getting time to retire the Envoy, the pep in her step is waning. But she is a rare bird (XUV model) and is very useful.
Could have a sticky break caliper or a colapsing break line
So did you do the video on the driver front wheel not turning in 4wd? Been hunting for it. Thanks
what has happened at 11:02? there was not any flow then suddenly it increased without much bubbles coming out... Can someone explain please? I thought the air was the problem but none came out.
We’ll done. Persistence pays off. Sometimes bleeding brakes go fast and sometimes not. Those are the brakes. 😜
Did you ever post a video or an explanation as to why the front wheels lock up when you putting it on 4x4.
Bless your heart.
if i have the IN lines to a abs module on a 2002 chevy silverado 2500 hd and have no OUT lines from ABS, should fluid shot out of ABS module when HITTING brakes when in Drive 40 mph on stands. I know i got fluid going to it, cuz disconected ins and hit breaks to c fluid flow.
My pedal is going all the way to the floor so will the driving fast and slamming the brakes method work?
So how did the pedal feel when you were done?
Help me out man at around 11:00 min in the video you had trouble getting the stream out from that specific bleeder valve, how did you manage to get that stream?
I have oil coming out the rear bleeder valves but just by drips no streams
Good video. Even liked the little jokes. I have a suggestion though. Next time you use a self bleeder like that try raising the bottle above the bleeder valve so the air won't want to go back into the caliber. It will want to go up into the bottle. I never see people do that and it seemed like people should. I haven't had a problem with it in the millions of years I have been bleeding brakes.
Your video gave me the confidence I can do this without going to a shop!!! I replaced a master cylinder and brake booster on a 2010 ford edge and because of your video brake bleed success!!! Question? If I only changed a caliper can I just bleed normal? The abs isn't affected? Ty again
Getting ready to run all new brakes lines on my 04 tahoe. Its popped 2 brake lines in the last year.
Wonder if a person couldnt just jumper wire the abs to power?
Just throw the ABS in the garbage. Not sure why they were ever put in cars. In jumbo jets with a full time mechanic it is a great idea.
Hey Dan, I am currently having an issue with my brake fluid streaming out. Sort of like what is happening at 10:34, any advice on how I can make it stream out?
Look up a tool called “fender lizard”. I seen it used and it’s pretty cool.
If the wheels are still on the car but the wheels are lifted off the ground, Will the abs motor still pump?
When you activate abs is the light supposed to turn on?
Thank you very much!
So basically you were just persistent going back and forth and finally it unclogged, wow, i having the same issue with all 4 wheels, no fluid come out, the pressure does build up while pumping the pedal and when releasing the bleeder valve the pedal goes to the floor as though it being bleed but no fluid comes out, I’m thinking it’s gotta be something with the abs module.
Any suggestions or ideas, thanks
Great video by the way
I use a paint gun regulator adapted to a spare master cylinder cap. Adjust it to 5 to 10 psi and you can bleed the brakes, change a caliper, etc just don't let it run out of fluid.
That is the best way to do it; 5 to 10 psi; thanks for the paint gun regulator idea; now i just have to get a spare cap and drill and seal it for the hose;
have here a 2001 Daewoo Nubira 1.6 ( beautiful car to drive by the way, here in Portugal,SW of Europe..w/ 260000 Kms,runs and drives new), that has a very spongy pedal i still don't know why, either got air in due to the fluid change,or the Master Cyl. seals are gone inside of it.
Thanks man appreciate it👍
You did not post the link about you bleeding the brakes on the Sierra with the scaan tool!
The bleeder valve could be clogged. Remove the bleeder valve and clean out the hole in it.
Fabricate a pressure bleeder from a garden sprayer .... easy and cheap and works like a dream. replace rubber hoses too.
I too have been "baffled" by my Hilux's brake problem. I have bleed the system numerous times. And have not found a leak. However there must be one b/c if I wait a/b 12-24 hrs later without using the brakes I'm back to NO BRAKES. WOW. How can I detect a leak if there is no visible sign of leakage????? Baffling for sure.
Where's it gonna go w/o wheels?
How can you bleed abs without opening some screw to let the air out? Does actuating the abs somehow purge air? Sorry, I need more info.
No,not at all; air has no way to escape by itself on any car; one must bleed the air out, and a factory procedure AND a special tool must be used for each car and model, a nightmare...
@@josepeixoto3384 Thanks. I did end up getting a scanner that performed the ABS bleed procedure. It prompted me each step. My brakes were better than from the installer after I got done. I suspect they did not do the ABS bleed.
So there’s no way to trigger the abs pump without all this convoluted mess? It’s a switch to ground device why can’t you hook it up independent of the vehicles battery and computer ie using jumper wires to a spare battery?
Hello what size tubing should I get
one front caliper has sticky pins, causing pad drag, stopping the right front wheel against the differential. one tire spins.
Sounds like the inside of the rubber brake hose may be collapsed or rotted .
It was a metal hose that broke.
You can also aplly (external) pressure to the fluid reservoir.
Oh yeah....
Aka one of those magical pressure bleeder thingies that nobody wants to spend $800 on... 🤔 Bought mine years ago and boy does it ever make these scenarios waaay easier.
That and quality scan tool are the only way to do GM and many others to get them back to OE performance..
@@weedie82 I was using switchable (pressure / suction) manual service pump with rubber cone. It was definitely cheaper than $800
@@haczyk84
I happen to be owner/operator of a registered repair shop.
Used both those tools today for a 10 3500 express van. 2hr flat. Twice around. Done dinner.. 👌🏻
Part # BB71165
do you leave the cap off the brake reservoir?
Prove again....if it has wheels or wears Makeup, it's going to give you problems....( grinning). / Good video...Thanks!
I think this is the second time you did a video regarding the same issue, it’s all good
limited slip carrier unit is why one wheel spins. If you have locking hubs that'll stop if not then it's just the way it is .
Why the front wheel was not turning - there are different options of AWD/4WD. Each axel has a differential (which may be blocked on some of cars). Some may have a differential between the axels. If this is the case, with all wheels in the air you may get only one wheel rotating while all four are engaged.
I have quite a number of questions about what you were doing, but I guess the most important is how do you know which wheel ABS is activated on when you hit the brakes and all the wheels are in the air? On my (passenger) car I was doing them one-by-one, to make sure that all are done. I guess this may be the reason why you had to use the fancy tool after all.
an oldtimer taught me this lil trick; get a clear bottle fill it with brake fluid. attach a hose to the bleeder and put it in the bottle below the level of fluid. Then just open the bleeder and have your helper pump until no more bubbles.
Brake vacuum kit at Harbor Freight is $20 something.. start furthest from the master cylinder.. pass rear, driv rear, pass front, driv front. Add fresh fluid at each step.
you have to open the dump values . there are three if you have drum rears and front left and right you test tool should have the a way to turn them off and on.
if you have all wheel disk you have 4 dump values.
I think this explains why my Bosch ABS modator has 5 magnetic valves in it. I have drum brakes on the back and disc on the front.
Was having an issue of my brake pedal going down to the floor after a local mechanic fixed my brake issues of one sided brake pad got eaten more than the other side.
So i did the full brake method and it fix the issue. I knew my abs was not an issue as im able to brake normally but after certain time the pedal went to the floor and if i were to send it to the local mechanic, they would have told me to replaced the parts which would cost me more money when they're the one causing the issues.
Thanks again for the video, save me so much.
So what you’re saying is taking the tires off and trying to run it that way does not work correct?
The easiest way to bleed an ABS module is to apply the brakes on a slippery surface like grass on a wet or rainy day. Fast, simple, effective. It usually has to be cycled only once. You must have some pedal in order for the ABS module to activate. If you have no peddle (too spongy) this method will not work. But man, is it slick!!! Pun intended.
Yes, that is the way to do it, when there is no Diagnostic Tool that cycles the valves inside the ABS unit; you bleed some first, then go for the slick terrain, hit the brake pedal a ew times, , then come back, bleed again etc etc
Wich model scanner?
can i bleed it by hard connecting its relay?
Either the rotor is warped or the brake caliper piston is sticking /dragging.
It’s the angle it at
Just before 11:21 you said that you were just baffled and that you did not know why the fluid was not pumping out. Just after that it suddenly starts pumping out after you cut out and back in. What did you do to make it work?
I kept repeating what I was doing. Pumping the breaks and running the ABS with the scan tool. It took a long time, but it finally came around.
Don't like color of the fluid, they make a positive pressure system, but I don't know if it works with ABS
Having similar problem. Replaced all front hard brake lines in a 2003 Suburban 1500 including 4 to and from the ABS. All brakes bleed well until I got to the front driver side then hood pedal, but no fluid from front driver’s side. Sounds like similar problem. Still working it. I don’t have a scan tool.
Did you figure this out?
@@PAZ602602 Yes. The rubber brake line to the caliper had failed and collapsed internally. When I replaced it, I was able to bleed the brakes.
2013 Chevy 2500 HD Just replaced all brake hoses and calipers. Bled them I’ve Rand over then turned on truck. Pedal went to floor after a hard pedal. I bled them again after starting and turning truck off about 5-10 times so the air moves through lines. Pedal feels ok but not hard. Asked another mechanic and he said there is a tool to electrically bleed the brakes because it gets rid of air through some vent you can’t see. Haven’t done it yet. Has anyone heard of this. This has no brake booster on it it’s the electric brake system. Has anyone had the electric computer hooked to them to do this?
Watched this on my same "fancy" scan tool...lol
So if the brakes don't even move it's the ABS? I tried the trailblazer in the air and ended up waiting 4 minutes for my wheels to stop turning because the brake system isn't building pressure. Not sure this is a way to pressurize the system, I'm on bottle #3 of DOT 3 but have only half a bottle of clean new fluid.....not sure where 3/4 of a gallon of brake fluid goes but the driveway certainly doesn't show any leaks.....I officially hate trailblazers, no other vehicle has ever taken almost a gallon of brake fluid and put it somewhere. I'm lost on this one, Fords and Dodge don't have this problem either
My '01 Ford Taurus wagon has a problem just like this one.
Hey Dan is there anyway to send you a email with a video? that way i can show you what my truck is actually doing? way easier than typing it out. thanks.
Sure. My email is in the description, or you can DM me on Instagram.
One of your front wheels is spinning because it’s not a locking front differential it’s open so one side is spinning in the other side is doing nothing until you have traction or both tires on the ground
That line gets clogged and doesn't let fluid come through it been threw that usely the rubber line lets fluid out but won't let it return back to master cylinder
The front wheels are not properly engaged as well this vehicle is not all wheel drive some use vacuum lines to ingage the front hubs if electrical they have a bad connection or the fuse is X or it's the realay...
It also depends on where you ABS modual is as to how you bleed your brakes.
Awesome man.
Just send it. You’d stop eventually. 🤣 my 97 bird has bleeder screws on the abs module. I was able to get air out without any computers or empty fields.
That's the benefit of older cars. Bleeders on ABS modules was a thing, but not so much any more. Seems silly to remove it. Must be because it saves the manufacturer money and makes money for dealers and shops.
@@TheDaninator just more gadgets to fail and sell for more money,
Everyone put there mask right there 😂😂
Maybe the inside of the line is collapsing won't let the brake fluid come back and release the Pistons out of the calipers