CRIMP CONNECTORS how to crimp EASILY & SAFELY
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- čas přidán 23. 08. 2024
- What are all those crimping connectors called? What are they used for? How do they work? How do you use crimping connectors for electrical connections? Here I take a look at electrical crimping connectors, often used in auto electrics, and set about answering all these questions.
You may have seen me using the connectors in one of my electrical related videos, maybe about switches, relays, PIDs, etc. Certainly one subscriber had - he wrote asking very simply “what are those called” and I realised this was a topic I hadn’t covered properly. So for him and anyone else interested, here I look at the most commonly used crimping connectors, the Spade, Ring, Bullet, Fork and Butt Splice, demonstrating their use and explaining their function.
Finally I look at my preferred application of crimping connectors - using a soldering iron. Yes I know that's not really the point, but it does make for a much more secure fixing.
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6:35 If you look at your crimper as shown in this moment of your video, you will see a star shaped washer, that has what look like teeth on the top half of the crimper. That washer has a phillips head screw attached to the outside of the washer. That is where you can adjust the crimper to make the connection stronger, or weaker. Simply remove the screw, and rotate the washer, there are arrows pointing in 2 different directions + for stronger, and - for weaker. There is absolutely no need to recrimp a wire terminal 2, 3, or even 4 times as you mentioned. In fact, I actually had to weaken the crimping force on my tool, as it was cutting into the insulation on 12/12g butt connectors.
Hi great video. If you turn around your crimper you will get a better result. When using crimper the coloured dot is the wire side of the crimp. These crimpers have two crimps one for conductor and the other is to crimp around the plastic. They are not the same and would explain your loose crimp. Please do not take this as a criticism the rest of your video was very good and thanks for posting. Cheers.
Hi Selwyn. No offence taken my friend. I appreciate the tip. I'm always happy to learn : )
Yes. VOG, look closely at the half-moon shapes in each position of the crimp dies. Each terminal fits in one location in the die but there are 2 areas (half-moon shapes) that press on the crimp. One of these makes a deeper "squeeze" than does the other one. The correct way to crimp is to make sure the deeper crimp is on the metal of the terminal and the not-so-deep crimp is on the plastic and the insulation of the wire. The not-so-deep crimp creates a strain relief at the outlet of the terminal and holds the wire so that it doesn't move around and ruin your crimp.
As Selwyn Tracey says the terminal and wire should be inserted in the crimp tools so that wire end of the terminal comes out the side of the crimp tool that has the colored dot.
Also note that the crimp dies in these tools can be removed (take out the screws holding in the dies) and installed such that the colored dots can be on either side. But I think that the dies are designed to fit best in the tool if they are installed with the yellow dot nearest the hand grips.
No need for solder!
How refreshing to read a constructive comment given AND ACCEPTED gracefully! Yes, that too is the first thing I noticed.
I finally managed to snag a (used of course) 59170 Amp crimp tool and had been using IT backward also. It always seemed to be so awkward, and last night I had a few minutes to read up on how to use it properly. You are so right - the dies are asymmetrical and crimp the conductor different from the insulation. The trick is that the wire goes on the side with the dots - as far as I can tell, that is true for all crimpers. Cheers.
James Wills I was thinking EXACTLY that!!
VOG you’ll prosper in life with an attitude like this chief, all the best 👍
Thanks for the video. I am embarrassed to admit, I’ve been a hobbyist for many years and find myself disappointed if I have to use a crimp connector for anything at all. I’m very particular with connections and the crimps always seemed too loose. I figured there was no way I was doing it right, yet never sought out a tutorial until today. I was glad to see I wasn’t alone in my frustrations. Between the video and comments, I feel like I’ve completed a master course in crimp connectors. So, thanks again. Very much appreciated
Soldering wire crimp connectors can be OK in low vibration contexts but for automotive or more "active" settings that can be a problem. The act of soldering the tip of a wire makes it very rigid while the main part stays flexible. The point of transiton between states is rather sudden and that is the point along the wire where ALL the bending happens and that is where all the weakening happens until the wire is broken by each wiggle. Crimping only doesn't create that obrupt spot where all the bending happens and so actually is more durable when there is lots of agitation. (why automotive experts prefer it that way :-) ) - Got this info from Jack on EVTV who is quite adament about this and he's almost right on things mechanical/electrical/technological/even-political. Incidentally copper wire seems to become MORE rigid as it bends and so each bending would be inclined to be at a subtly different spot alonge the wire. Crimp connectors on normally and you get to take advantage of the virtues of copper. :-)
The procedure I use when I am fitting a 22 gauge wire in an 18-22 gauge connector. I will strip more insulation, fold the stranded wire and insert it into the crimp connector round end first, prior to crimping. Loose crimps are caused because the whole isn't 75% or more filled. I am so glad you didn't solder the wire before crimping. Good video.
I think your regional accent is about the best out of all them. I am from US and we like British accents over here. Anyway, thanks for the great info. I am new at using the crimper to make DuPont connectors and I appreciate the time you took to share your knowledge.
Hi Dave. Thanks for the compliment and positive input. It's appreciated : )
Love this. I'm a belt AND suspenders guy and like you, I don't trust the crimp alone. A little extra time with some solder on top of the crimp will give me peace of mind.
Glad you enjoyed it 😁
A little tip for those of you making connections using crimp-on connectors, invest in a bottle of Nolox. Ideal is the company that primarily sells it here in the states, and is used on mechanical lugs where aluminum wire is used. It is a conductive gel used to prevent corrosion on aluminum to aluminum contacts or copper to aluminum. Squeeze a SMALL amount into the wire opening before you insert the bared wire, then crimp as normal. Also, those spade connectors are notorious for crap connections in a vibration-prone application (cars, planes, boats) a LITTLE dab of Nolox into the female spade end before insertion will help to avoid said issues.
you're welcome👍
Perfect in every way. All I wanted to know I found right here concisely and simply put. Why cant all of youtube be like this?
Many thanks 😁
Thank you! Good to know I'm not the only one who never has any luck crimping wires to connectors. I never thought of pulling off the insulation first and then soldering the connector onto the wire - what a great idea! Thank you for an excellent video...
wish I had a teacher like you at school , really like the way you make your points
That spade-garden-addition joke was excellent. Totally got me as I was half-distracted checking something else while you got rolling here. Well done!
Manicurists...
the resting on soldering iron tip!! absolutely brilliant hack, big thanks.
Glad you liked it!
@@vogman had a crimpin' session yesterday, felt like a pro!
brilliant video... love your accent, im a Japanese female, study to be a electronic engineer in naval science... you video help me a lot... lots of love from miruyoshi, Japan
Many thanks. Good luck with your studies : )
I am a solder it before crimp it person but the weakness of a solder connection is vibration. Try this experiment tin a section of copper multi strand wire. Bend the tinned section back and forth, it will snap very quickly, usually where the tinned area merges with the un-tinned. Soldered joints should not be used where vibration is an issue. You do have to balance that against the downside of a crimped cable which is electrolytic corrosion caused by different metals touching each other.
In my view the best connection is a marine type. The copper cable comes with each individual strand tinned with a zinc, tin and lead solder. The cable is still very flexible and is crimped onto high quality tinned brass terminals. This type of connection is vibration tolerant and resistant to corrosion
There is probably a higher standard for aerospace but for me marine quality is as good as I need.. BTW love your videos
You're absolutely correct about solder embrittlement. If there's any chance of the cable vibrating then you need heat-shrink over the splice. But a crimp splice is better than a solder splice with heat-shrink.
For avionics the wire and crimp barrel are untinned. Wire is copper, crimp contacts for connectors are beryllium-copper (or similar) gold-plated (5 microns over nickel flash) for the connector contact area, usually unplated crimp barrel.
For electrical distribution the wire is copper and so is the ring terminal. The pressure from the crimp tool is enough to cold-weld them together. A Hellerman Deutsch rep I occasionally encountered showed me one that had been sectioned so the cold weld was visible. The individual strands of the cable cold-welded together and the barrel of the crimp cold-welded to the wire with no voids between the strands or between barrel and strands. The crimp barrel was as thick as my wrist - that takes a serious crimping tool.
A good crimp is the most reliable joint you can get. A bad crimp is a failure waiting to happen.
@@bdf2718 We joke that anything in the marine world comes with an extra zero on the price tag I guess in avionics you can add a couple or three zeros. Interesting point about the cold welding that's kind of wow!
PVC insulation tape is never a permanent solution, particularly for crimp connectors. It's prone to degrading and unravelling over time. Heat shrink sleeve is a much more durable alternative. It also makes a much neater result.
Great video for a noob like me who never paid attention at school and is only just learning this stuff now. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Glad to help
Thanks Man. I have had a similar experience with crimping wires. I can never, ever get those crimped well enough to feel comfortable about the connection long term. I certainly like the idea of pulling back the insulation to visualize what you are crimping and there is in-fact a good tight squeeze on the wires. And of coarse the soldering of the connection seals the deal with confidence. A lot of my applications need to be waterproof so I think I may buy the connectors without a sleeve and use a good heat shrink over the connector. Thanks for the video, its helpful for a self taught person like me to see what others are doing!
The joke about your wife recovering cracked me up a lot. I didn't expect it that was good.
Brill - as a complete numpty, I hadn't realised the significance of the colour code! Or sliding the wire on the soldering iron to prevent lumps. Some of my soldering looks like modern art!
As a panel wireman I use crimps and bootlaces all day.
The cembre crimper and nippex bootlace crimper are very reliable.
Your crimper will have a + and - to adjust the tension of the spring.
This will ensure a good connection.
A pull test will also confirm if. The cable is sound.
You can also tell if you’ve miscrimped as it doesn’t feel right.
Thanks for your input Carl : )
his crimpers were best suited for the butt splice crimp, as they crimp both cables coming in. theres a different set that only crimps on one side.
Google didn't find a hit on either of those tools.
@@carleynorthcoast1915 Try these:
Cembre HN1 crimping tool
Knipex 975504 Crimping Pliers for wire ferrules
I do believe your system is much better than standard crimping; thank you PATRICK.P
So glad that I am not the only one that doesnt like crimp connectors. Thank you for the video
I too was never happy with how plastic insulated terminals crimped, so I've always done exactly this and pulled the plastic cramp off, crimped and then soldered. You can also buy uninsulated terminals which come with rubber insulation which you slide over after crimping/soldering. I actually like to use heat shrink as well before sliding the insulation over it if I want to be really safe.
Apparently, it's not good to crimp and solder because it could cause the wire to break
Thanks very much for this informative video. It bothered the heck out of me that I could easily pull the crimp connector off of the wire, which means it's a very unreliable connection. I almost went out and bought a dedicated crimper until I watched this. I much prefer the soldering method!
I'm brand new to electronics and this video explained literally everything I needed to know about these connectors! Thank you so much!
Same here !!
You are able to increase the crimp strength by changing the tooth the screw just above the handle is holding in place. I have had a few pairs of crimps and have always had to adjust this.
However, soldering will always be better. Awesome video!
Many thanks : )
Thanks 👍 I was having to use the red crimp on the blue 16 gauge to get a solid crimp..
I am a complete flop at crimping. Thanks for showing an alternative way to secure the wires.
No problem 👍
Forks are also a viable alternative for wiring stranded wire to outlets and light switches here in north america (Canada & US), especially if the length doesn't allow you to do a usual loop with a piece of insulation sort of serving as a bootlace. There also exist forks with the tips bended upwards, as an extra safety to prevent the wire from slipping out, but they're a bit more annoying to remove and, so far, as long as you tighten down the scrww properly, it won't come off.
Very informative video. Clear, concise and a touch of humor too. Thank you!
Very helpful to me. I had no idea how to fit a bullet connector. Now I know. Thanks for taking the time to make & post this, Geoff
Happy to help : )
Just before seeing your video I was already soldering my wires connectors because I didn't want to spend for an extra tools just to crimps 😆 Old reliable methods are the best even if it require more dexterity and time.
It's whatever works best for you my friend. 😁
6:06 You're using the tool backwards, that's why the crimps are loose. (sorry already mentioned)
this is why i love working on my car
it's because i always get to learn something that i didn't know
spade, bullet, ring, fork, and butt connectors
even the right and wrong way to insert the wire and connector into the crimping pliers
twisting the wire versus leaving it straight
i love learning this kind of stuff
Thanks man! You made me understand much more about these little guys and how can they help me in my projects!
This is a really excellent introduction to the different types of crimp connectors and the best uses for each type. Thanks!
Thanks Andrea : )
I agree with your comment concerning the poor connection that crimping can sometimes chive. I my experience crimping often leaves the wire loose. And I have tried inserting the wire on both sides of the crimping tool.
So Clear & Concise Instructions..........A1 Tutorial.
I am SO glad I had watched your veg oil videos because clearly the algorithm knew I wanted to watch your video on how to crimp these little guys. SO glad i did because having used the method you describe at the end (without solder I confess) for many years, I always felt like a plebian compared to the superior crimp-tool owner/operators. Some of these double-hinged mechanisms are €500+! That's double-unhinged if you ask me. I was eyeing up a €80 set on scamazon, but now that I realise magic doesn't exist, i'll go back to using plyers and patience to get a known-good result. Top video!
Edit: Although i've heard that solder on a 240V AC connection might be dangerous, but i've not heard as to why it should be more dangerous as to the exact same connection without solder. Would be good to know the mechanics behind why solder on AC is bad, because it's pretty counter-intuitive.
"My wife has recovered fine." That's fire! ;-)
I like to live dangerously ; )
@@vogman 👍🏼
You 🤩🤩wife my wife
Thank you so much man, I've had them for years, and I just searched in order to learn where is each one of them used, especially about the fork. However, I also received tips about how to connect them.
Glad it helped 😁
Thanks for the explanations. Now I understand how this thing works! ✌️
Great video well explained, also nice to see without crap background music
Sorry if all ready mentioned or asked, but would it make sense to use a female connector where the wire is a supply of positive (on a negative ground system) since it would be less likely to cause a dead short for the instance when the connector was unhooked than if it were a male?
Pretty good video... thanks. I'd like to say that if using the properly sized connector for the wire gauge being used, and a quality crimping tool, then the crimp should be adequate without the need for soldering. Also, it should be noted that crimping should be used on stranded wire only.
Best video on this subject, I learned a lot and am now more informed and have a better knowledge on what to use
Glad you enjoyed it!
You're such a dad and I love it
I'll take that as a compliment 😁😁😁
That's exactly what it is! I love your channel!
Brilliant, simple informative video. Straight to the point. Easy to follow & understand. Thank you
Thanks Danny : )
Between the video and comments regarding crimping, this helped me out alot. Thanks very much.
Thanks James. Glad I could help : )
Thanks for the informative video, I, as a DC electrical hobbyist have been building Brown's gas generators which work on the basis of electrolysis, I've been having trouble with ring connectors ie the wire which I crimped coming lose when I thought it as securely crimped, you say you don't trust crimpers! I thought I was doing something wrong when crimping these ring connectors, but your comment about soldering has me thinking, and the humour helped too lol.
Woah, timestamps at the beginning of the video, good explanations even some jokes. Maybe that last one needs a bit more work but well done!
heres the maximum size cable for those crimps. red is 1.5mm, blue 2.5mm and yellow 6mm cable. and the crimpers you was using are really intended for the butt splice connector. if you was putting 0.75 into that 1.5mm crimp, i would strip of extra cable then bend it back on itself to thicken it, usually helps make a better fit and more secure.
Great video - great narration, clear, concise and very helpful - thankyou.
Very kind, thanks : )
You are such a good teacher on these things
You're very kind Mark : )
This video was great, i got the information i came for and some extra comedy on the side that i wasn't expecting. Lol
Glad you enjoyed it!
I'm with you on these connectors. I think they get a bad crimp from having plastic over the top. I buy un-insulated ones and used short bits of heat shrink on top. Not to mention the colours look hideous on a nice car build.
I thought I was the only one that did that sometimes with the crimp connectors. I often use non insulated butt connectors, solder them and use marine shrink wrap. It's easier to solder it since it's joined and the solder makes for a very secure connection. It all takes a lot more time though.
Really helpful, thank you. It helped me re-wire my switch panel on my boat.
Glad it helped
Great informative video. Very valuable information. Thank you for taking the time to explain. Great sense of humor as well.
Thanks Daniel : )
Thanks for the video very informative. My way always to solder the wire and insert it in the connecter then crimp it.
I love how you showed everyone how to crimp by soldering lol. I feel the same way about crimping it just seems like it will fail at some point in time.
awesome info video sir, Have a great holiday season! thanks a million! 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Where possible, I slide on a short length of heat shrink tubing over the wire first. Then, crimp the connector ( often with the coloured plastic sleeve removed like you did), and finally, heat shrink the tubing for a nice clean and protected connector.
GREAT Video!
I think your method is better than crimping, but you only show the male bullet connector's plastic cover being removed, but that's the easy one to do with needle nose pliers :) As you don't have the metal connector sticking out to grab hold of, how do you remove the plastic cover on the female bullet connector?
Two things that would've given you a better crimp on the first try. First you were putting the crimp end in from wrong side of crimping tool and second your crimping tool has an adjuster to give you a tighter crimp.
I too, dislike Teese primo conector. I only use them on temp installations, and come back to make a better connection. I use some techniques when slicing or connecting terminals when not on a bus bar. First, I never crimp both wires side by side. I always offset one from the other. I Also put the female on one wire and the other female on the opposite second wire and vice versa with the males. This way there's no way to crosswire. Also if splicing severa wires on the same bundle, I offset each butt splice so the finished bundle is close to the original and not having a bulge of splices in the same location. Thanks for sharing.
0:50 😂 I was not expecting that👏👏👏
Thanks for the video. Your soldering method is great. I will use that next time. From Cyprus
Glad it helped
Good crimping tools are big and expensive. Mine resembles and is nearly as big as a small bolt-cutter. With such a tool, it is possible to apply significant pressure around the connector lugs and create fantastic joints.
Love the music!!! Perfect, thank you.
Crimps are very reliable, if done correctly. Select correct crimp and wire combination, crimp with a quality tool with the correct die and the correct orientation. Select the correct crimp for the job, either plastic insulated, heat shrink, or uninsulated. All have their correct application. Soldering crimps is at best unnecessary, and if done poorly just as likely to fail. The most important thing to do after crimping is give the crimp a good tug, to test security. Critical connections in industry are sometimes verified by sampling using a strain gauge.
Thank you!! My hood pin for my universal car alarm snapped off with a light accidental hand and I have to figure out how to crimp a new (now I know what it’s called) spade connector to a female blue thank you!!
Happy to help 😁
Jeff Thank you for making this very interesting and useful video for CZcams, Trying to make up wiring cables for my model railway points which use spade connectors. Learnt a lot from your video. Regards TONY
I’m an engineer and a good part of my job is wiring up new machines, I do a similar process to your working method by removing enough insulation to fit the terminal, I removed the exterior insulation of the crimp to expose the tinned metal interior, rather than use needle nose pliers to close the crimp I have an old set of crimping tool that’s to butterfly uninsulated crimps together, I use them mostly as I feel that the needle nose pliers will not close the crimp effectively and has a high probability that the wire will slip out under tension, in the late 90’s I used to fit Clifford car alarms and they supply a special type of crimps that “squeezed the crimp into a oval cross section” these would push a middle of the insulation crimp into itself,like punching an small area through the other side, this was proven to be one of the best ways, as it gave 100% of the surface area of the crimp to the copper wire. It was a good back bone of Clifford alarms that there was a very high success rate of it never failing, great video, keep up the great work!....Phil
Thanks for the input Phil : )
the bullet is a great replacement for the butt splicer, and liquid electrical tape is better than tape for bonding to the connections and there's no glue to fail. Also, some connectors have shrink tube as part of their insulation.
THAAANK fucking god he isn’t one of those guys that tries to hold the camera and talk in while doing so.
“So uh, yeya uh, then um connect these two, um... wires”
I like this guy already
Well, er, I, er, um, well, kinda... thanks ; )
Very helpful to have the times posted! Thanks!! 👍
Good quality crimping tool will be better then the one I see here...I have a good crimping tool and absolutely love it
we call that connector an EYE, and a variant of it with the side open a HOOK, The spade is a spade, normally two sizes 3/16 and 1/4, this is mainly to keep maintenance personnel from mixing up where they connect like two different voltages...
Good stuff. Just this year I decided to finally get into electronics (Actually studying it) and replacing triacs, capacitors, etc. And Friday I was just at a store checking out crimping connectors.
Don't be put off by my comments. Many people LOVE crimping. Just invest is GOOD quality crimping pliers and you should be fine. I'm always too tight to splash out on something that I don't use that often and enjoy an excuse to get my soldering iron fired up... primal urges I guess... man-make-fire-ug
Did you get my reply to your second email? I only ask as I was having email problems that day.
Ah yeah, I got the reply :) I've been learning the fine art of video editing. And yep, I prefer the soldering gun for sure. I have a cheapo one that works surprisingly well so far.
There's always something to learn ; )
Sometimes you shouldn't use solder as it can reflow with heat or over time (it's a slow liquid), that's why solderless connections are sometimes best.
If your solder is melting without someone applying heat to it then something is extremely wrong in the electrical connection.
Very useful and clear demonstration
Thanks : D
This video was excellent! Very informational and helpful 👌
Try ferrule crimping some day. it gives an insanely strong crimp. also, I've always really hated those spade connectors because some of them are very hard to pull out once plugged in, but are unavoidable with some relays and other things. The ring ones are great though.
Thanks for the tip!
That explains so much. I was using yellow and wondering why all my connections always were so loose . I just needed smaller red ones. Thanks alot !
Glad I could help!
If I'm connecting anything that will be exposed to a harsh environment, I will solder the exposed wire to the lug, put a dab of silicone sealant around the wire, slide some shrink tube over the silicone and apply heat to shrink it. Wipe off any silicone that oozes out, and it will seal the connection from exposure to anything that may over time cause a problem with the connection
I love the 'solder' idea, however, if you have both hands up tight inside a car dashboard, a bit unwieldy & impractical, but certainly on a workbench, I'm in!
this was very helpful. thank you!
Finanly I found a detailed tutorial on how to use this.
Glad it was helpful 😁
I prefer the naked connectors that come with separate, soft silicone boots.
I find this type makes a much stronger connection since you are crimping directly metal to metal, not through the plastic protector.
You you need to get a dedicated crimping bit for your crimping tool, mind.
>
Thank you for making this video.
My pleasure!
Great video indeed!
However if I were you I would negate the use of ferrules altogether and just twist the wires together then use the solder thereafter wrap everything with insulation tape ✌️
Great explanatory video 👍
I am learning a bit this👍🕊️
I'm glad I'm not the only one who doesn't trust crimp connectors and solders them too!
It's a belt and braces approach : )
If you're crimping properly you don't need solder. A crimped connection is gas tight and cold welded. Adding solder actually makes the joint worse under vibration or mechanical stress. If you're not worried about either of those you might as well just solder and not crimp.
Source: NASA.
In ref to why some people call fork connectors spade connectors. The simple fact that you are doing this video is evidence that there are people that don't have a clue when it comes to connectors. This is through no fault of theirs, after all they are watching videos such as this in an effort to learn. However, if you imagine yourself as a person that has absolutely no experience with connectors and visually inspect the female half of a of a spade connector, it would be easy to assume that a fork connector is the male half. Thank you for emphasizing the difference.
Excellent video! Thank you very much.
Your crimping insulated connectors using the proper color codes die (for insulated conns). For the dies for non-insulated terminals you need to pay attention which"side" of the connector goes toward /\ or /\/\ sharp side of the die. The terminal type your using have a smooth side and a side with a split or slit. The smooth solid side of the connector always goes toward the sharp side of the die with /\ or /\/\ that pressed down into the connectors smooth solid side.
Great video and explanation! Huge thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Nice video .. can I use these on a outside shed light if I use a junction box ..sorry never used them
Thanks, 36 and first time looking up crimping for a project 😆 that was very helpful! Cheers