Why 50% of All Crimp Connections Fail - Up or Down?
Vložit
- čas přidán 13. 06. 2024
- Crimped connections can suck for one reason that most DIY'rs have no idea bout. Should the connector seam should be UP or DOWN? How do I know wat size wire to use? Are manual tools really stronger? End the Crimp anxiety when you pull that wire and learn to crimp like electric Connectors, Insulated & Non-Insulated like a pro.
Manual Crimp Tool: amzn.to/3IrgEo1
Ratcheting Crimp Tool: amzn.to/3V79Jb7
Crimp Assortment Insulated: amzn.to/437CNRL
Crimp Assortment Non-Insulated: amzn.to/3wR9ZB2
Nothing in this video was sponsored
This video, description and comments contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. This helps support the channel and allows us to continue to make videos like this. Thank you for the support!
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Silver Cymbal, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Silver Cymbal assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. Silver Cymbal recommends safe practices when working on machines and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Silver Cymbal, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Silver Cymbal.
Why 50% of All Crimp Electric Connections Fail - Up or Down? - Jak na to + styl
Let me know your tricks for crimped connections! *Cheap but Great Crimp Tool* amzn.to/3V79Jb7 Crimp Assortment Insulated: amzn.to/437CNRL Non-Insulated: amzn.to/3wR9ZB2
I have never done an inverted crimp such as you've just demonstrated nor have I ever had a problem with any
of my crimps; not ever! The proper tool along with a good set of eyeballs and technique is what gets me through
this type of ordeal. I would never do an inverted type of crimp unless you follow up with flowing solder into the
joint and over the outer split connector joint on an uninsulated terminal. Sorry, but doing an inverted crimp does
not nor will not get it for me! I could actually demonstrate a solid crimp whereby it would be 100 percent of impossibility of not being able to pull a wire out of said crimp without breaking nearly all the wire strands first!
And so I stand by my crimps by at least 200% without any common failures what so ever!!! The crimper that I
used back around 24 years ago withstood 10 whole years of use and abuse and so if I could remember the tool manufacturer's name and P.N. I would give you that info right now!
on the uninsulated ones I flow a bit of solder on them and then apply heat shrink no more pull out ever ....
@@unmanagedYep, bullet proof. Uninsulated connector, 200/300W soldering gun, quick flow of solder, cover with heatshrink. A side benefit, is it seals the connection against occasional moisture.
This is the my preferred method. If the connection is crucial I make it with an uninsulated connector, solder, and heat shrink. I'm still up in the air on the prepackaged solder/heatshrink for butt splices. The low melting point of the solder in those has me concerned. @@unmanaged
Great minds think alike...
So logical...but for 55 years I have been unaware of this...great content as usual SC
Amazing how something so simple can be so technical. I've been doing it wrong for 3 decades... 😂
Glad it was helpful! Thank you
I thought the dome gave it away as you dont need to align it perfectly that way
you have been unaware because it never mattered until the Chinese crimps hit the market.
@@troyb3659 there is some truth to that
This explains the problems I've had for three decades with amateur wiring in my car. Genuinely, this video has made my life better. Thank you.
Yes but now you are old so you dont need it anymore
@@misterRobbi hes 15
@@misterRobbi Old physically, but I'm still installing aftermarket stuff at 45 when time permits. At least for a few more years until electric cars completely take over and it becomes nigh impossible!
@@minecrafterselite1 Heads-up: A decade is ten years.😉
Anything that I want to last more than 6 months gets soldered instead of crimped.
Crimpin’ ain’t easy
I used to feel the same, and these issues are 75% of most of the problems.
Lmao
Sighhhhhh. Lol
That one got me! Lol!
But it's necessary.
The crimp tool you used on the uninsulated terminals is for closed barrel connectors. The open crimp uses a die that rolls both wings of the open crimp down into the wire. You mean well but are actually not helping.
This times 1000. I am practically screaming at the screen this is so incorrect. A proper terminal crimp in almost every specification will form a “B” with the seam splitting the wire strands into two channels. You can see how hard he had to finesse the situation to make the crimp incorrect by the video jump @1:19
@@SolarMillUSA He's showing, without telling us, the importance of using the right tool for the job. I don't know that a cutter/crimp tool is, but it shouldn't exist.
It's like using a spork to eat a meal in a fancy restaurant.
One of the few CZcams videos that actually shows the importance of seam and crimper orientation.
Thank you.
What he does not make clear is whether orientation matters with a ratchet crimper, and if so, make it crystal clear which way to offer up the crimp connector to those differently shaped jaws.
On rewatching carefully, I see there is a brief text overlay at 2:30 which says "insulated crimpers" (presumably he meant to say, ratcheting crimpers) "eliminate the need to orient the connectors"
Retired now but built low and high current power supplies much of my early adult life… a couple that are no longer in this solar system. A few that vanished in a flash…. Nice to see someone on CZcams teach this right. The orientation really becomes critical when dealing with high strand count small gauge wire - 1400 strand 12ga Teflon jacket is a bear to get mechanically connected.
How do you feel about soldering these connectors in stead of crimping? Or both?
@@deslomeslager I like to crimp and then solder!
@@deslomeslager Always, always establish a good physical/mechanical connection (crimp) before you solder. Then, Depends on the application. Most people over solder. You only need to wick into the conductor and get some flow to the connector. I prefer some, but minor stick out of the conductor when pushed through the connector. This allows you to place your iron so that you heat the connector and the conductor at the same time. You don't want your solder to move outside the connector as it can lead to embrittlement in a high vibration environment. In a high silver content wire you can even get hydrogen embrittlement. Less is more.
@@ramosel You should make youtube videos about this kinda stuff. You've got some really interesting and useful information that could really benefit people in multiple different fields
Years ago a study was made and found that soldering these causes breakage in high vibration environments. The crimp allows just enough movement to avoid this
"Stop pulling out" thanks Chris, I'll take this to heart
I shall adopt this as my creed 😂👌
😂
Your seven kids will thank you.
Okay maybe not, they'll be selfish jerks. 😅
This video finally talks about how to orient the seam in the connector in the crimping tool. This is the first video that takes that question head on, to make sure that the dimple is on the side that does NOT have the seam. So simple and yet almost NEVER talked about-thank you for this video!
Been doing this all of my life. My dad was a brilliant electrical engineer. So glad he taught me well.
This is a great video. No one has ever taught me the right way to do a crimp in all my years of using them
Zero time wasted in laying it all out very simply. Subbed 👍
Much appreciated. Thanks for joining the channel.
Me too.
OMG .... forty years later and I've now learnt how to (i) identify the lug's hole size & wire size and (ii) how to crimp correctly! What a great lesson you've taught me .... thank you, thank you!
Instructions are optional.
thats the best-testing clark bar i ever et.
OMG is right......forty years and you never figured that out! Yikes!
Another potential issue, primarily with the insulated connectors, is getting some of the wire insulation into the crimp. Using the right size connector, as you pointed out, can help avoid that because only the wire will fit. But if the wire is in the smaller range for a particular connector, it is possible to get some of the wire insulation into the crimp, and then it impedes a good connection and it’s difficult to notice if the connector has an insulated collar around it.
ANAL ME: ATTEMP A PEEK IN THE "RECIEVER END", OR ASSUME THEY ARE OF STANDARD MEANS OF MANUFACTURE, SO INDENT? FROM THE GUESSED OPPOSITE (SMOOTH CONTINUOUS) SIDE WITH THE DISPLACING "PUNCH".
OUTSTANDING, as usual. I've seen MANY folks do this the wrong way and use regular pliers to crush the connector down. The "brute force" method.
Used vice grips for years, works great
I use a 6lb blacksmithing hammer and anvil, never had a problem.
works fine if your connectors are the good ones. This is the same thing the ratchet ones do.. "brute force"
@@kcrichton7485 WHY CHANCE A FAILURE? WHEN KNOWLEDGE WILL YIELD SUCESS?
I have used pliers.
I have used a drift pin and big hammer.
As much as I hate to admit, I have also used to small a wire and stripped off 2 inchs of insulation so I could fold it over a few times!!!
What you say is correct but If you buy brazed-barrel crimp terminals this failure mode cannot happen. They cost a lot more than the cheapies but are worth it. They often are made from thicker copper material, so they are sturdier. Nylon insulated terminals are good to higher temperatures than the cheaper PVC insulated ones. Many critical applications specify brazed-barrel terminals.
For smaller screw size terminals 1/16 stick out of the wire may be too much. Any wire past flush is not part of the connection, so just make sure the wire strands are just a little past flush and not in the way of the screw head.
Ratcheting crimping tools are great and often take a lot less force to crimp. I have carpal tunnel damage from crimping terminals and cutting wires with less than the easiest tools over fifty years of tool use.
Thank you Walter. Also people should avoid generic no name brand Chinese made crimp terminals widely available at online stores because even though they come in very affordable multi-packs with every size and style of crimp terminal you'll ever need in one convenient box.....video demonstrations have proven that they don't hold their crimp even when crimped correctly, to the point where just a slight tug on the wire pulls the terminal right off. By comparison, Gardner Bender crimp terminals hold together very nicely. I'm not sure what manufacturer makes the best brazed-barrel crimp terminals or where is the most convenient place to buy them but I have to find out before my next project.
I was about to comment this. I have switched to brazed seam uninsulated crimps and they work so much better.
100% correct. Ideally followed up with double-wall heat shrink. (non-insulated connectors of course)@@mandmwaddle
Excellent
Couldn't agree more. High quality terminals, and a high quality crimp tool are so worth it. I've been working on industrial machinery and building control panels for 40 years. Panduit or T&B are the way to go. I own both a Panduit CT-1550 and a T&B ERG 4001. A lot more expensive than most of the other tools on the market, but when a bad connection results in downtime and/or a call in the middle of the night, then they seem rather cheap by comparison.
Although technically your using uninsulated crimpers on insulated terminals, you are correct about the orientation which is easy to see by looking down the inside of the terminal.
Insulated crimpers are what typically result in soft crimps, also good quality terminals have grooved interiors that help with getting a good bite on the wire, unlike the cheap Chinese terminals which are usually smooth.
I've been doing this method using uninsulated crimpers on insulated terminals for decades. Rarely does the crimper penetrate the insulation. If it does, it's just a small area inside a depression that is still protected from contact with other objects. For low voltage it's not a problem. For line voltage there might be some added shock risk but usually the compromised area is on the backside of a terminal so it is still protected from accidental contact.
This is the MOST useful video I have seen in years. I HATE connectors such as this in HVAC, and now feel foolish. Thank you!
I am 70+ years old and can't even begin to count the crimps I have done. Crimps I have done wrong. Thank you for this video. You would think that I would have figured it out long ago.
yea.. i used to think i were 'good'.. now i'm so ashamed..
Exactly the same here…also 70+.
I built industrial control panels 30 years ago and learned early on how to make the most robust "staked-on" (crimped on) terminations. Use quality terminals, a dedicated crimp tool (those all-in-one tools are for the backyard amateurs) and for high-current-carrying terminations, crimp, then coat with flux, and immerse in a molten solder pot. I learned Mil Spec soldering for those high-grade data signal-carrying plugs and sockets. I was also involved in setting the ISO900X series of QMS standards.
I've done a lot of stranded 10-14. I had some long handled crimpers like the Gardener/Bender in the vid. Came up missing. I ended up welding 6" extensions on the pair I use now, as I couldn't find another. Crimps like a bench vice. Fixing a pulled crimp on a submersible pump a couple hundred feet below ground motivates one to make good crimps.
Thank you for doing this.
I was lucky that in the senior year, my High School had a vocational electronic program (the entire afternoon). The instructor covered all types of practices, tips & tricks. I went on to college, and couldn't believe all the double E's that didn't have a clue about any of this, and most had never wired anything!
No mate, you are using the wrong crimp tool; That is meant for solid barrel connectors; these are cheap folded ones you have there
So logical yet,.... You use what your boss gives you sometimes. Sometimes it's good to know just from looking at it that it sucks or you know it's good
This is not correct info
Facts
Wowsers what a rad video :) 20 odd years of crimping that led to me just soldering everything out of necessity for reliability I’m now off to buy some nice crimping pliers ❤
It took me a while in my younger years to figure out which way to crimp terminals correctly. Great Video!!!! You are saving folks a ton of frustration and some downtime from a failed connection.
I alway cut the useless plastic “insulation” off of the connectors and use heat shrink instead. Problem solved.
I lessoned myself about 30 years ago in getting the crimp right, and using the correct heat shrink tube. Insulated connectors have the insulating shell removed and thrown away, and crimped properly as shown. You can get the uninsulated solid tube butt/end connectors at Napa usually, or any Commercial truck supply store. Ancor Marine Grade heat shrink tube only, all I use now. No more Harbor Frightening Chinashrink. The Ancor is expensive, but you'll thank me later. When shrunk properly, it will ooze sealant out of both ends of the shrink tube on the wire or connector., sealing and locking the connection. You could tow a vehicle with the strength of that adhesive/sealant. I made my own crimping tool because I was tired of folding the china crimpers over, when I would squeeze tight. All big high amp connections get a hydraulically crimped end, and solder and Ancor. You can also get the shrinkable butt connectors and others at Napa. Most of those are junk. Don't buy them. Some of those better marine connectors do both with a shrinkable insulator and being loaded with Dielectric grease from the factory.
I've watched a lot of crimping videos over the years as I've always struggled to get satisfactory crimps. This is by far one of, if not the best.
I have three of those ratcheting crimpers including the one that you used and I was never able to get satisfactory crimps out of it. I don't know if I'm just using it wrong or the wrong dies, but it never seems to work well. I just started using the uninsulated ones so I could make sure the wire and connector deformed together solidly.
one of those things that are painfully obvious , once somebody shows you. thank you ,much appreciated
Yup. I knew about the seam but had been doing it the opposite way. Sometimes the two halves on the seam would both curl in nicely and make a good crimp but your way is better and more predictable. Earns a sub, thanks!
There is a tool that pinches the two halves down and together like you said. It is what the factory does. Not for insulated terminals though. Surprised it was not shown in this video.
I’ve done a lot crimps, and I’ve idly speculated on which way is best, but never put serious thought or research into it, which is probably why I’ve had inconsistent results. Now I know the correct way. Thanks!
I've never seen all these points highlighted, and so well demonstrated, in any crimping how to video. Thanks, once again, for going a little deeper into the details that can make, or break, the success of a project.
Thanks for this. I have been frustrated many times with loose connections on these connectors. Now I will look for this in the future.
Good advice. I always give a crimped connection the "tug test" as well.
Crimp, tug, apply heat shrink.
This is the way.
Unisulated crimped this way plus adhesive lined heat shrink is the best. Good content. Just be careful as many automotive connectors require special crimpers and they do go on the seam.
Thank you, somone get it...
Yep that's how I do it and that's how the factory does it. Never had an issue.
@arturozarate1752 thank you! Look at how it comes from the factory. Nice to see a fellow ford senior master in here
It's not hard to put the tooth on the seam, bending both sides into the copper. I have seen many bad connections also made the "proper" way if the wire, pushed from the other side, spreads the seam.
The right crimp for the right wire, the right tool and correct preparation will make a long lasting crimp every-time. I can say that because I am one of a handful of EWIS, Electrical Wiring Interconnect System, experts on USN/USMC, a few USAF an a half dozen foreign military aircraft. If you’re going to do more than a dozen crimps in a year and you can afford it buy the ratcheting crimper. You’ll get interchangeable heads and you won’t be able to crush the crimp like so many do. It really takes about 15 minutes to train someone to be able to properly one crimp after another.
Other than the lug breaking I can’t remember seeing a failed crimp in years. Thanks for a great video!
I use to work in a wire harness manufacturing facility. I use to teach a lot of this stuff lol. We had hydraulic presses and ratchet hand crimps. On the hydraulic presses, once you did the initial setup for whatever wire gauge and terminal, you had to do a "pull test". We had specific machines for this, that would pull until failure. We had specific rates for what each should fail at. Some manufacturers asked that we solder the terminals as well. When I do this at home , I always solder them, because I was so use to having the pull test, and I don't have access at home, so I solder it lol.
I’ve been an EE for 30 years, and this is the best crimping tutorial I’ve ever seen. Great job!
In the UK we can only buy insulated crimps in the shops. So I cut off the insulation, crimp the wire on, solder the joint then cover in heatshrink. Never had one fail on me yet.
I do the same. Some will object saying that soldering is a bad practice, but it only is if you don't know _how_ to correctly solder and support a connection used in a environment subject to vibration or movement.
That's not true, I'm in the UK and have found uninsulated connectors no problem. Last lot a bought came via a UK supplier on eBay.
I prefer to use the double crimp non insulated terminals with separate insulator sleeves (readily available in the UK, along with most types of terminals). Soldering does give a good electrical connection, but can cause problems with vibration fatigue, particularly if the copper has been overheated.
I do the same, but I'm in the States
Don't use solder in automotive applications, as it can crack under vibration. A properly crimped wire is bonded to the connector, and solder is just a point of failure.
The exception to this is when potting the connection, as the sealant prevents the solder from cracking or separating.
I’ve never crimped a connector like this and probably never will. But the video had me hooked from the beginning.
NOW YOU MAY TEACH AND PAY THIS FORWARD
Excellent video. The only thing I would have mentioned is. All those crimp connectors are made of aluminum. And we all know it oxidized rapidly. Whenever I do any wiring with these connectors. I smear a dab of Dialectic grease on the wires. I was taught that years ago as a kid. And I have never had an issue with oxidized connectors. Even here where they salt the roads in the winter. Thanks for the great video
good call. I use Gardner Bender Ox-Gard
Not aluminum. They are copper base metal that is plated with silver.
Not aluminium. Copper base-metal, plated with Tin....
I use a hex crimper always, from #22 to 4/0 . But the variation in insulation size, hardness, etc makes me prefer uninsulated terminals. The crimp is visible for QC inspection, and I use heat shrink afterwards.
are you using seamless barrel connectors OR brazed seam? Followed with double-wall heat shrink with melt-liner? I used to splice submersible pumps using seamless butt-connectors followed with 3M double-wall shrink which has melt liner. The crimp tool was the kind with the dimple like Klein makes. These were 50HP 3-phase 480 volt pumps at lift stations.
I never use these because they don't work well... turns out I was just doing it wrong.
You aren't alone. Lots of people who think they are great at it, have terrible connections, they just don't look too close . After I changed my own ways, I no longer get the anixety when you pull that wire.
I've been doing it wrong! Thanks for the great video!😊
Bought my first ratcheting crimper this week and am going to try it out using your tips!! Always such great content thank you!!
Excellently done video. For me, sometimes crimping just isn't enough. Like when you are repairing wires behind a dashboard and re-accessing them would be a hassle. When I need a bulletproof connection like that, I remove the plastic insulation, put heat-shrink tubing on the wire, crimp properly as demonstrated here, then Silver Solder, then finish with the heat-shrink tubing. That will last forever!
Exactly! Automotive/harsh duty areas require crimp and solder! No issues when done that way (using proper wiring and routing components) and will outlast the vehicle.
I knew of this for years. And you are totally correct about this. I have pointed this out to a few friends. And all of them had no idea . Thanks , great video.
Great explanation!
I've seen several professionals saying to put the teeth of the pliers pressing on the terminal tabs and it's actually difficult to get it right.
There are always those who will argue: "but it's just training".
I don't see it that way, because it doesn't make sense to train to correct something you're doing wrong.
This video was shared with my channel followers, but not all of them speak English.
If you allow me, I would like to use your script as inspiration to film a Brazilian Portuguese version. And of course giving credit to the original creator.
Thanks for the class!
THATS THE CIVILIZATIONS IMPROVEMENT EVOLUTION, BY PAYING IT FORWARD!
You covered a great topic and glad you showed it done the right way, NICE JOB. If I may add, I ONLY use Ideal crimp connectors with either a ratchet crimper or a Klein regular crimper to get the best results. Whenever I rewire any kind of automotive application, especially boat trailers, I remove the insulation off the connector, slide 2 pieces of heat shrink tube with the last heat shrink to go on being a little longer before I crimp my connection. Last, all my crimps get sprayed with white lithium grease before I heat shrink them. Truly a long lasting, almost bullet proof connection. Hope you like the method to my madness. Mike. :)
try double-wall heat shrink with a melt-liner you will marvel at the finished connection. That single wall heatshrink you are using will probably split with age. When you heat the double-wall you stop heating right the very second it oozes out. This also serves as limiting the heat applied.
@@cruze1953This is exactly why I use 2 pieces of heat shrink, 1 longer than the other. Lithium grease under the 1st heat shrink, and the 2nd heat shrink overlaps each end to seal in the grease. Over heating heat shrink makes it brittle and a very good point. I will look in to that type of heat shrink that I am not familiar with. Thanks!
@@JohnSmith-he1eq white lithium is not an ideal thing to have UNDER your tubing. Why would you do that?
Details like this are so important but so hard to come by! Thank you for passing along this knowledge.
This video is one of the most informative. Keep up the awesome work you do .
I appreciate that! Thank you
I've been doing this wrong all my life......
Oh no, how many houses you have wired up? 🔥
I have also. Some times I made a mistake and did it right.
Thanks for the video and keep them coming.
I never knew about the orientation issue. But I alway checked what the joint looked like and would re-crimp as needed-crude but effective. Thank You!
Me and a friend put an aftermarket ignition system on his motorcycle and needed to connect all kinds of wires with these connectors. Real glad I'd watched this video for fun a few days back and remembered to put them into the tool upside down. Not a single connection failed!
I think you made the perfect video for this topic. I mean that - nailed it.
Great video! I learned this 30 years ago and have always crimped the correct way using a Gardener Bender (tooth one side) type tool.
I’m in my middle 50’s and I never knew this. I’ve only done this a handful of times but I was a squisher and hoper until today. Thanks
Thank you for making this. It seems like such a simple solution.
Nobody ever told me they needed to be spun the proper direction. I always wondered why I'd have to do it 3x to finally get a good connection. Here I just by chance would end up with it turned properly.
Wow, this is interesting. Never knew this. Retired as a service tech after 28 years. I never had any bad connectors. I guess I was very lucky.
Spent my whole life doing it incorrectly. Thank You !!
The video we didn't know we needed!! 🎉 Nice job my guy.
Thanks for the great tip, I use to do this but not much anymore but I learned something new today and I appreciate that, I'm 65😊
Very simple but incredibly valuable information!
...that should be completely obvious to anyone right after their first crimp, without any instruction at all. It's sad that so many people can't figure out very simple things on their own.
@@AlWorth9738 YOUR BIRTH WAS BREACH AND UN ASSISTED. WOW! HUMANITY HAS EVOLVED WITH THE NON PROFITTING OF PAYING AND SHARING BEST PRACTICES GOING FORWARD FOR COMMUNITIES' SUCCESS.
Good video. Years ago when I actually paid attention to this and figured it out, I spray painted one side of the tip of my crimpers so at a quick glance I knew what way they were. So now I just have to look at the terminal. I got a ratchet style crimpers but honestly don’t like them that much.
There's also a right way round in a ratcheting tool for insulated crimps: there are two sections in the crimping die, one for the insulation and one for the wire crimp, and they are different sizes (cheapo ones sometimes are not). Crimping is all about compressing the materials into their plastic region without passing the yield point. Understanding this allows you to appreciate why you need many different size crimps, each of which only accommodate a small range of wire sizes. Remember that a crimp done properly is mechanically superior to any other type of termination. method.
Some of your best content yet, which all of it is always very helpful. Thank you.
Yes, I always try to remember 'the knob doesn't always go into the slot' 😬
I'm an aircraft mechanic and electronics technician. The information provided in this video is accurate.
Thank you for your effort and time. You have saved some of us an ongoing headache.
Very good and helpful V-Log for fail-safe and optimum crimping technique.
Thank you so much!
If I'd used an indent crimper on an insulated connector on the sites I worked on, I would have been sacked. Always use the correct crimper for the design of the lug.
Great post. After 43 years of doing crimp lugs, I concur with your observations. It would've been nice to show not only failed and poor crimps like you just did.. but with high current connections.. the TIN plated with insulated connections.. the plating becomes destroyed by the heat due to higher resistance from the bad crimp, creating more resistance.. cycle, repeat.. until at some point, lug gives out and either fails.. or flames.. or both. THAT is the big danger with crimp lugs.. necessitating as perfect a crimp as possible. As one who went through multiple UL, CSA, TUV, cUL, and ETL certs for products.. it was important that we had to get this one right. Thanks for a great, concise, video!
Have you had your crimpers calibrated?
@@stephenolan5539, during development.. seldom.. but all tools that required a measured force were calibrated periodically in manufacturing. After a Beta Level build, Manufacturing would typically outsource the subassembly in most companies I have been at.. but I personally still inspect - and pull - every one I do. - to ensure durability of the the connection. Too many times I have seen the blackened insulators and discolored plating.. on other's work.. so glad i learned it right. The only time I ever saw discoloration/burnt lugs on a prototype I built was on a special controller I built for a NASCAR team.. that was intended for 120 VAC 20A MAX. The uninformed gearheads would plug in 2X the load; 28 - 32 amps.. yikes.. HTH..
This shows why you need to be more involved with the tools and materials you’re working with, especially when it has to do with electricity. Follow manufacturer’s directions, but also utilize your critical thinking skills to figure out why it’s done that way.
Thanks for posting this video.
Hooray! I have been teaching my workers this since the 70s. So good to see a vid on why we do it this way. The hard part is the butt crimps, but all you have to do is look down the barrel of the crimp to see where the rolled ends meet.
10,000 crips later,= CARPEL TUNNEL DAMAGE
If you want your crimp connections to work then don't use the cheapest connectors on the planet. There's a difference between Wang Hung Lo brand and name brand connectors.
Those are definitely low quality connectors I won't buy
@@toastmastr9763 the connectors in this video look like the imported ones to me. You get that assorted organizer of them for $9.99 or something. 500 pieces! They're really thin and made out of mystery metal. Decent connectors always have information stamped on them. If the connector says nothing that says something.
That’s the first time in my decades of experience that I’ve realized the orientation matters. Thank you!
It still embarrasses me that when I was a young man it took me longer than it should have to figure this out. I'm now 65 and I can still remember my moment of realization. I was 19 years old. This video is the first instance that I've ever seen anyone, or anything describe the proper method of crimping.
Good on you for doing so.
This video is going to really crimp my style.
Are the ratcheting crimp tools symmetrical? If so orientation would matter?
The Ratcheting professional Crimpers have a huge crimping area on both sides so the orientation doesn't matter. It crimps the entire area of the terminal barrel. I've read the instructions for several brands including Klein Tools and none require a specific orientation. But always read the specific instructions for your crimping tool.
Ratchet crimpers have a hex shape die, so be careful not to be 90 degrees off. The terminal slot can be either up or down.
Thanks for tips👍
I was frequently frustrated. Every time i was making fails.😊
You're not supposed to use the groove with the notch on insulated connectors.
After 40 years experience in the commercial and military electronics industry, if you don’t have the best reliable crimping tool, then solder the connection with flux, then clean with 99% isopropyl alcohol. But what about the crimp connector plastic? Use an un-insulated connector and add heat shrink tubing This is only my opinion and experience.
Good tip. I used to do this in the commercial marine electronics industry. I would crimp it then solder it. I didn't clean them though, I'd just use RMA flux core solder (or no-clean but I don't really care for that stuff).
I stopping soldering them because I found they only ever corroded when there's water in the wire and the wire is ruined anyway. Or it corrodes around/behind the connector and you have to redo the connection anyway. But I still believe soldering the connectors is good practice.
Awesome video, things I already knew through trial and error. However, I'm sure there's a lot of people who learned the proper way to crimp wire connectors keep up the good work. Again, great job! Thank you
This is great information! Thanks for making this video.
These sorts of things should all be in a pocket book of how to do things the right way.
The "good" crimp you show at the end is poor. The wires extending beyond the sleeve will interfere with fastening it to its connection. C'mon!
I agree. As a journeyman electrician for 39 years, I saw the problem of too much wire extending into the area which will be under the connection screw.
I am not agree with you on which side of the connector facing the crimping claw of the tool. Crimping the connector your way will deform the connector itself and cause poor connection, thus overheating ... The claw of the crimping tool should fold the two edges of the connector from end to end. In order to achieve that, you should crimp the connector two to three times depending on the size of the connector
Have you tested whether the connection is poor? If you want to refute a video that provides evidence, you need evidence also. Post a video if you feel so strongly.
Also, the degree of which the actual spades of the connector is deformed is minimal (2:18 at 0.25 speed). If anything, the slightly overturned spades would provide an interference fit.
@Imcrikee Bruh you don’t know what you are talking about.
I read my comment again and I agree with you all because I was not very clear. If your crimper is with pointed claw, then it meant to fold the opening of the connector. If your crimper has a rounded claw like the one in the video, then the rounded claw use to pinch the connector as shown in the video. However, the rounded claw should be placed in mid part of the barrel so that it won't deform the connector. Also, you can see in the video 2:20 incorrect crimper iused thus deform the connector. If the connector is a male or female spade deformed then it will definitely won't pass quality control.
Thank you! I’ve never been sure about my crimps and you just answered all my questions. Excellent video 👍🏻
I've been a mechanic for years and never knew this. Thanks man
Here's how I use crimp connectors:
1. Remove insulation and put a piece of heat shrink over wire.
2. Crimp each ear of the connector down, one first, then the other on top. This keeps the connector from deforming like it does if you crimp from the back.
3. Heat the connector with a lighter and put a little solder on the tip of the wire allowing it to soak in between the conductor and the connector.
4. Apply heat shrink in same spot where connector insulation was.
You can't beat it.
Wow, I never knew this! Learn something new every day. Thanks!
Wow this is an unexpected great find this morning. I work in the HVAC industry and no one ever taught me this. I always wondered what I was doing wrong crimping. I check every crimp to make cure it wont pull it. Now I understand why my failures were happening. Thank you.
Excellent video answered all questions anyone pondered...I personally solder any connector and then shrink tube then dielectric grease connections...wire routing is the problem I’ve experienced... and those pesky 🤬mice
Excellent tutorial. I just learned something today.
This advice will surely put an end to my copper scrap pile from growing.
Wow thanks I am 75 years old done a lot of wiring off and on and never knew how to use the crimper. I certainly had a lot of failures and resorted to other wrong methods. Bet ya by golly gee; I will never forget. Thank you.
Always felt like I was guessing when doing crimps, this cleared it all up. Thanks for taking the time to educate us and doing it for free, very appreciated!
This isn't correct and will not be stronger than properly clamped crimps.. buy a proper crimp tool for the crimps and forget about using the wrong tool upside down or backwards..
Those crimps should be rolled over on both wings like a love heart not folded like he showed..
No wonder he thinks doing it backwards is better...
@@Yukanhayt-MhenowTutorial video release date?
Hey Chris this one was very helpful I was struggling crimping but I think I can get it right now thanks 👍
This problem has been vexing me. Thank you for the excellent, no-nonsense video.
Having fixed a bad crimp, I finally noticed that the seam needs to be on the smooth side of the crimping tool.
I knew some of this but not all. Thank you so much for a great video!
I have always crimped as you suggest. Thanks for educating those that didn't know the proper way.