92% of Homeowners Use Teflon Pipe Tape Wrong - Here's Why it Leaks
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- čas přidán 4. 06. 2024
- Using Teflon Pipe Tape wrong causes leaks & reduces flow. Learn how to use Teflon Pipe Tape like a PRO but in a way you can do yourself for leak free connections everytime & avoid the most commn plumbing mistakes.
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Due to factors beyond the control of Silver Cymbal, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Silver Cymbal assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. Silver Cymbal recommends safe practices when working on machines and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Silver Cymbal, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Silver Cymbal. - Jak na to + styl
What plumbing tricks have made your life easier?
Pro-press 🤣
Hire a pro. Pay the $$. Let them handle it. It's well worth the expense. (And, no, I'm not a plumber.)
@@PJam2019 Pro press has taken a lot of problems out of plumbing work, what a blessing.
Well, when you are putting on the tape, feed it from the bottom side of the roll ( the side closest to the threads you are taping) . Sounds petty, but if it goes from the outside to the outside like a tape cassette, then it's harder, comes off too much. Flip the tape so it spools off from the side closest, the inside, to the outside of the threads, less frustration and a better job because it's tight.
When applying teflon tape (or even electrical tape) in close quarters, you can roll tape onto something small and round. Such as screw driver, pencil, ratchet socket. This makes a small roll you can apply tape easier.
Another tip is to reverse the way you held the roll so you can get better/easier tension while wrapping the threads. It makes a much tighter wrap.
This one's a biggie
Absolutely correct! Otherwise, especially on pipes smaller than the tape roll, the tape becomes slack.
"Reverse" compared to what?
I was gonna comment the same thing.
Like...uh homie, you are still putting it on 'backwards'...
@@brothermine2292 The video correctly shows wrapping the tape clockwise around the pipe with the end facing you.
The above comment is about which way you hold the spool of teflon tape similar to the question of if toiler paper should be mounted with end coming out over? or under?. The comment above suggest having the teflon tape spool with the end coming out under the spool so that gentle finger friction on the spool causes tension on the unspooling teflon being wound around the pipe threads.
EDIT ADDITION: To follow the above comment suggestion, apply the "Top of the teflon tape" down onto the threads.
If you’re working in a tight area where the roll won’t fit, pre-wrap some Teflon tape around a pencil and then use the pencil as a tiny roll to go around the fitting
That works for electrical tape but really messy and difficult with the thin white stuff, it tends to get all shredded and sticks to itself.
The pencil trick worked great for me…
That also works for me. You can also tear the plastic sides off the tape.
I've been a pipe fitter for over 20 years and have never used a special thread tape for Stainless. I've used your normal PTFE brand whether in a white, red or, blue cover and the tape is either white or blue for all normal fittings. We use paste or yellow tape depending on the chemicals that run through the pipe. Many different kinds of PTFE pastes are also used.
I also was taught to hold the tape 180° different from how it is being held in this video. This allows me to control the tension then putting on the tape especially if the pipe is smaller than the roll, you don't need to keep on manually spinning the toll to build tension, just hold the roll to build tension and have it pull past the friction to tension the tape automatically. You are virtually making an S with the Roll, tape and tape roll instead of a C as seen in this videol
I was repairing where someone used a black pipe fitting on a water heater. It was totally dissolving the black pipe fitting. Seen the stainless counterpart at the store and thought it was a great idea. I could not for the life of me get it to seal. I tried variations of paste, different thicknesses of tape, & different number of wraps with the tape. Came to the conclusion that the stainless was too hard and slick to couple with a galvanized pipe being that galvanized and brass was a softer metal that will bend to each other. Was this not the case?
I came to say the exact same thing with the holding and applying of the tape. Poke a finger in the spool and use your fingers to create the tension. You can wrap super fast this way.
When I use teflon tape, I run the tape clockwise, as per your video, but...I run it "backwards" from the spool. This helps me control the unrolling better, while keeping tension on the tape; and if I do have a fumble-fingers episode, it's much easier to recover than if you're running it forward off the spool, and if you drop it, it's liable to roll 10 feet away, unspooling as it goes.
Yeah, he's actually unwinding the roll in the wrong direction. You're doing it correctly. It makes it easier to handle.
That is exactly what my thoughts was when I first look at it.
That's how a lot of plumbers do it... It's how I was taught...
Every now and then I "flip" my roll out by accident and it bugs the crap outta me trying to keep it from rolling out while I roll
I do the same
Here are the two plumbing tricks that have made my life easier:
1. At the hardware store, buy way more parts, and of different types and sizes, than you think you'll need for a project. This saves repeated trips to the store, and you can always return what you didn't use. I now have a mini plumbing department in the garage ...
2. Because a pick axe can be used to locate buried sprinkler pipes, keep plenty of repair pieces on-hand, along with the necessary tools and solvents.
I always buy double fittings. Whatever I figure I need, I buy double. Within reason. I can return what I don't use or keep it for the next project/emergency.
That's a pretty good idea. I have three 5-gallon buckets of extra fitting in my storage shed. 1/2, 3/4 and 1 inch. Also have a hardware store 1/2 mile from my house that specializes in plumbing and irrigation parts. Just know that if you are going to the work of digging ditches, adding to your irrigation system or maintaining it that you will be better off in the long run by buying quality, commercial grade components. The stuff they sell at convenience stores like Home Depot is made in China and is absolute junk.
Buying an item with the intent of returning is kinda a duck move
‘Pick axe buried pipe detector’ 😂
I think I've had plumbers do that and then charge me for all of them.
What did I learn today 1) there is more than one kind of teflon tape 2) wrap the teflon clockwise around the threads 3) wrap the teflon around the threads more than once, two to three layers is ok for threads in good condition $) for stainless steel fittings, there is a specialized tape. Your videos are extremely helpful. Thank you 🙏
5) don't use metal brush on plastic pipes
6) And don't tape the first two threads (because they are tapered)
Also, they are holding the tape spoon incorrectly in the video. You'd need to flip the roll of tape around. This makes an S with the 2 pipes and the tape as opposed to a C like shown in the videos. This allows you to hold the tape tighter and use good tension which is also important then using the tape.
7) Dont use Teflon tape in the first place...
@@Patrik6920but wrap yourself around the thread!
How'd you arrive at 92%?
You stop right before 93%
Source: Trust me, Bro
xD I love some of the stuff I read on the Internet.
92% of statistics found on the internet were made up on the spot
Sources: Voices of his head.
To a certain extent, the color is to indicate to the inspector that a sealant tape has been used, and is compliant for the application. For example, gas inspectors will look for yellow. White tape is not rated for gas or propane. I use the D. N. Group Enterprise pink tape for almost everything as it's rated for propane, natural gas, water, most chemicals, hydraulic lines, air, and sewage lines, for metal and plastic up to 1.5" diameter. Another good brand is Gasoila. However, unlike the D. N. Group pink tape, Gasolia pink tape is only rated for water.
I knew enough not to put tape over the end of the pipe, but it did not know the leave the last two threads bare trick. Thank you sir!
I knew about the proper direction and the 2-3 layers, but never knew to avoid the 1st 2 threads. Thanks for the informative video!
It's rare to just simply, come across a genuinely informative video. This is great
Love the useful nature of your videos. Probably won't ever buy an automated electric lawn mower, but your pragmatic view has its own value.
I really appreciate that, thank you
Pros unroll the tape with the roller on the other side. with the roller on the outside, hard to explain but keep up the great work. Thanks
Yep, way easier to keep tension on the roll with your thumb/middle finger that way.
like this: __O, not this: ̅ ̅ O
I love how practical and informative this video is! It's like having a plumbing expert right there with us, guiding us through each step.
I'm not so sure...
Lol
Former old school LPF here who worked on just about every type of pipe or tubing known to man. Couple of points. Any time we were doing malleable, carbon steel or even forged fittings with Teflon tape we would also use never seez (liquid graphite). NEVER had a leak with this combo but it’s not for every application. Whenever you’re using the hose fittings you described or anything with a rubber seal I now use silicon lube or grease on the rubber parts. Same success rate.
Same here, I've always put either a dab of anti-seize or dope behind the engagement threads on anything that may need to come apart for maintenance. It doesn't screw with the seal but keeps everything healthy enough to minimize seizing later on.
What most people don't understand is that Teflon tape is a "lubricant" that reduces the friction between pipe threads so that they can be properly tightened. Sealant property of the tape is added insurance.
Great video, very informative. I would add that stretching the tape a bit while wrapping the threads helps. Also, I think you used too much tape.
Yeah he seemed to double tape it. But should it be just one layer one wrap? Like too much isn't really necessary. The direction looked good
The amount of tape you can use and still get the fittings on without excess effort is the right amount of tape. So if it works, its right.
I thought Teflon tape was not for sealing. I thought Teflon tape was used to decrease friction resistance so you can properly tighten metal fittings to the pipes by FULLY engaging the threads and being able to make them properly tight.
That’s correct. Dope is for sealing. Also the white tape especially has very little ptfe. It’s not good at sealing. There are tapes with more like the tan tapes, but you should use dope to seal.
You thought wrong. Why would there be friction resistance?
yes agree, it is classified as a lubricant, helps prevent galling and does help fill some voids also
@@bigmacdaddy1234 he thought right. There’s tons of resistance try to thread an old garden hose. Try it with tape. Which is harder. Even better just google “tape vs dope”. Go ahead we’ll wait. Who’s the dope now?
Yes it is a thread lubricant not a thread sealant.
Something I learned early on from an experienced commercial plumber and has never failed me is to use tape and sealant...my preferred combo is Teflon tape and Rector Seal No.5...that has been for natural gas and/or propane gas both low and high pressure...and anything else that is held under pressure in a pipe with threaded connections...the only failures i have experienced were manufacturing defects in fittings, pipe, and equipment...
I used a whole roll of tape on a Chinese made water pump, you can actually see how out of round the fittings were!Thanks for posting this, I was doing it wrong.
I have seen home owners apply teflon tape to outside of already assembled fitting. I have seen this like 4 times now..
You are holding teflon tape backward. Hold tape with top of the roll against thread. This will allow you to apply tape easier .
All I can say is that the tape is good...but that RectorSeal No. 5 Pipe Thread Sealant stuff is so awesome.
Agreed, I believe if thats the yellowish stuff I have used that on heating hydro lines a lot with no leaks every, even after many years
Rector Seal #5 is the standard ! Great Stuff !
Just remember number 5 is oil based and should not be used on any plastic pipe. It doesn't need Teflon tape . Most plumbers now use Teflon tape and T+2 pipe thread sealant. These products are very pipe type specific . Black iron and galvanized usually use the vibration proof sealant.
@@user-xe8rh9qi7y You should read the label on the can sometime... it says its good for use on plastic pipe also. Been using this stuff for decades. RectorSeal #5
Just don’t get it in some lady’s white carpet. 🤣🤣🤣
if you are installing fittings into a cast iron pump housing be careful not to over tighten. You lose the feel for tightness with Teflon tape and if you over tighten it could be costly.
Perfect timing. I have to rig up my garden hoses this week.
I add dope to my taped joints. Helps fill any imperfections and isn't much more work to add. I do also add tape to my garden fittings. I've had some lower quality ones leak with new gaskets, so the tape and dope solves that issue. Mostly saves me from redoing the job multiple times.
I see a lot of guys using both; but I found dope to work mostly better for me, if a bit messier.
@@MichaelCampbell01 I usually only use dope on metal joints especially on gas lines. I prefer teflon tape when going from plastic to metal or plastic to plastic, I've found dope doesn't do very well on plastic fittings but that's just my preference. I've seen quite a few people using both dope and teflon tape, I've tried it once or twice, but meh, just use the pipe dope with the teflon particles in it, works for me. I don't see the need for both tape and dope. I worked with an old scottish dude once, and he insisted on steam lines to use both tape and dope, but I don't do any steam piping anymore.
Pipe joint sealers, tape or dope help to deduce friction to allow assembly. In a perfect world we wouldn't need these things as a properly cut thread will not leak.
Using dope and tape is in my opinion is over kill. There is not enough clearance between the surfaces so most of it gets squeezed out of the joint. Can cause other issues too such as cracked fittings, contamination inside the piping.
It’s very common around here to put tape on and then a coat of dope
I've started doing this with my DIY jobs after seeing it on replumb's channel, works great! Belt and suspenders haha
Pipe dope is mandatory for iron and steel pipes. Also, on larger threads (like 2" and greater lines) you can skip the teflon and put a piece of string coated in dope around 2-3 threads (and no more) to do the same job. Learned that from a plumber.
Yes @ bwhog . I've been a plumber since 1988 and was a apprentice since 1979.
On boiler work ,where we used malleable iron fittings, we would coat lamp wick with pipe dope and wrap the male threads with it .
Especially , when you were connecting pipe with new threads to an existing malleable fitting . When tightening the new threads into the old fitting , the threads would cut the string to fill any voids between new pipe threads and old fitting .
Very timely as I am going to be replacing my shower head pretty soon. This isn't something I do often so it's likely I've been wrapping the tape backward. Thanks for your corrective tips!
I have never had leaks because i used a metal brush on plastic threads. For the folks that don't like to use teflon use hemp with grease (special grease for that) a bit tricky to use especially for smaller threads but by far the most reliable thread sealer because it also can seal when you move the thread by up to 45 degrees after thighten. This is the go to for most of Heating, Waterpipe worker here in switzerland.
Loctite 55 is what plumbers here use. It supposedly seals a lot more consistently.
My goto tape these days, a little more expensive but never have a failed joint, you can also back turn it slightly for an aligned figment
I moved to loctite- cracking stuff
I’ve seen that but it seems difficult to work with. Where is here?
Sometimes you can't fit the spool of tape into the space where the fitting is. Cutting off a section of tape to wrap it by hand sometimes works but is often a PITA. Instead, re-wrap the tape from the spool onto the end of a pencil, and you have a smaller spool on a long handle to reach in and tape the threads.
I always made sure the tip was clear of any tape, but I didn't know not to put tape on the first 2 threads. Good to know, thanks
Very informative. I put this to use today with successful results.
the Teflon can get hardened in the water and can make your pipes noisy, so that is the biggest reason to not put tape to close to the end. Been doing this for 20 years...
I have been using stainless steel tubing fittings for over 45 years. 1/4”-2”. I have only used USA made PTFE thread tape. I make 2-4 wraps and I have never had one leak even though they were subjected to THOUSANDS of pounds of pressure.
I love the Big Blue brand teflon tape in the big rolls. It's never let me down yet.
Over 20 years a Pipefitter and this is the first time I've heard of this stainless steel specific tape. He is also holding the tape roll backwards in the video.
@@esqueue I noticed that also.
I may be wrong, but I'm thinking the special tape he mentions for stainless steel may only be necessary whenever you are connecting those fittings to regular steel or cast iron and whenever water is flowing through them. I think it's to prevent galvanic corrosion. If you ever left something iron sitting on a stainless steel surface and it rained upon it, you'll see the contact with the stainless actually accelerates rusting.
I use blue monster, but I cover the first two threads. Helps protect from gaulding. 4 wraps total. Lots or pressure, heat and overall abuse in the steel industry. Never had a leak... ever
Nothing new here... but that in itself is useful to know. My dad taught me well. Thanks for the video!
That was a great way to mention "Like and Subscribe". Not even a pause, no wasted time, just a simple easter egg. Been watching several of your vids, time to sub.
I really appreciate that, welcome aboard.
I sometimes use both Teflon tape and pipe dope. It’s suspenders and a belt.
I worked construction for over 40 years and I saw a lot of plumbers do that. They said it made sure the fitting wouldn't leak!!
I've seen steam pipe fitters do this for removal of pipes years later it works !
As plumbers, we’d use two layers of Teflon followed by pipe dope. The sprinkler fitters would use pipe dope followed by two layers of Teflon. My strong opinion, backed up by years of successful installations, is that Teflon by itself is an inferior sealant. It allows you to tighten further, which is advantageous, but does not fill imperfections in fittings well. It’s great for subsequent disassembly.
You want a trouble free seal? Use Permatex 300 and assemble tightly - all the force you can exert, a foot of wrench per inch of pipe diameter. You ever think you’d want it apart? Do not use Permatex 300. Teflon and Rectorseal 5 is still my favorite.
Every CZcams plumber I've seen has also used pipe dope.
I always showed my helpers tricks like making sure the tape was wound correctly and threading the joint first without tape to see just how many turns were needed to fill the thread gap. If people learned this their joints wouldnt hurt so much😂
Set your threader up to produce a 3-1/2 to 4-1/2 rotation thread insertion dry in a new USA fitting. Then you won’t need an additional dry check as long as you’re threading that size. Just tape , dope, assemble tight. (And if your joints don’t hurt, you’re just too young to understand.)
Not sure why I got recommended this vid but glad I did
Nicely done sir, very informative
I learned the first two thread trick from working on pools for the last decade. On unions no tape, on others I do tape. I skip the first two threads and it makes a difference. Instead of a small drop every few seconds, I get none. You get CLOSE but the little stuff like this really helps.
"I don't work with natural gas because it is too dangerous." That is a classic New Englander's response and I've heard it numerous times. Many Canadians and Europeans that were born and raised on fuel oil feel the same way. Us Midwesterners that are used to having natural gas plumbed everywhere are completely numb to gas being dangerous, and it's not really. Household pressures run about 4 ounces and at that pressure you can seal a pipe with a band aid and bubblegum. The gas is doped with mercaptan and mercaptan is so offensive that at even a couple parts per billion you can smell it. Leaks at these low pressures are easily detected (olfactory or electronic sensor) and rarely ever reach LFL of 5%. Natural gas has such a small flammability range it adds to its safety. Methane's UFL is about 15%. Natural gas explosions are always the result of gross neglect.
Yeah, west coaster here and I laughed when he said gas was too dangerous to work on. I didn't know it was an New England bias.
Limited pipelines up there so almost no gas.
I beg to differ
Last year I was in a house that exploded
I'm in heaven now
So I'm fine
Not only that, but for natural gas to be concentrated enough to be dangerous, it would literally make you puke or pass out. Houses that have exploded from a gas leak have been either vacant at the time, or, the leak was LP gas which is a lot heavier than air, so if there's a propane leak in a house with a big basement, the gas can build up in the basement with only a faint smell on the 2nd floor, until that gas finds an ignition source, then boom. Natural gas is slightly less dense than air, so it kind of floats around all over the place and it's quite easy to smell it.
Is LVL= Lower Flammable Limit and UFL= Upper Flammable Limit ?
I don't know why CZcams suggested this video to me, but the tips in it are great. Thank you very much.
Glad it was helpful!
I really like your way to explain things. Great scripting!
well i'm glad i saw this before doing any plumbing.
You put more tape on there than I would've expected xD
too much
Excellent as usual...I see many plumbers using pipe dope on top of the tape...any thoughts?
It's just a little extra insurance against a big insurance claim. Makes it easier to tighten fittings too.
Personally I don't like dope. It hardens so that it becomes impossible to make alterations later. But if you expect the connection to be permanent, that's probably fine. It will be permanent.
I’m sure someone already told you but tape isn’t for sealing it’s for lubricating. It lets the threads slide so you can go further on the threads. There’s some ptfe in the blue tape (those colors are helping know how much ptfe they have) but not as much as dope (which IS for sealing.
Even if you have a washer Teflon tap can be helpful to get onto that washer more firmly. You really just need enough to get the threads to slide not this 3 loop thing that was like a mile of tape you did. But I suppose if you want enough ptfe in there to seal, you’d need to go really far with it. It’s helpful for damaged connectors to put a lot on- at least you got that part right.
Tape is for sealing, do the research.
@@WesB1972 you should take your own advice and stop giving out bad information.
@@Alansdadude If tape was just for lubrication then you could put a little oil on the threads and force them together with a big enough wrench.
But in the real world, that pretty much never works. In many cases you'll split the pipe or fitting before it ever seals up the threads all the way. In the real world, tape and dope are both designed and labeled as sealants. Basically every tape manufacturer even calls it a sealant on the roll (which you can even see in this video). What makes you think you know better than them?
The roots and crests of the threads will pretty much never match up perfectly, even with tapered threads. Sealants fix that.
Take the other guy's advice and stop spreading bad information. Whoever told you tape isn't a sealant didn't know what they were talking about, simple as that.
@@PGspeed88 you just aren’t right. Sorry. It can work, this is a forgiving application. Teflon tapes intent is lubrication to allow intimate thread contact. No, oil won’t work. It gets squeezed out and you lose the layer oil needs.
Tape has less ptfe. Dope has more. There are tapes with more ptfe for use in diesel applications or natural gas, but home depot white tape is a thread lubricant to allow the threads to make intimate contact.
Can you layer it 25 times and get enough ptfe do help “seal”? Yes it’s a forgiving application and there is some ptfe in tape. But thread sealing tape means tape which helps threads seal to each other… by lubrication. The ideal way is dope if you want to “seal” beyond what threads can achieve, like damaged threads. I’ve dealt with tons of damaged threads. Tape sucks (because that’s not what it’s made for) and dope rocks. For your house you can get by with just one. For hundreds of black pipe fittings like a sprinkler system, dope is the business. Tape will lead to leaks even in new pipe fittings with black
Pipe (I’ve seen it with my own eyes) and dope ends up sealing really well. How many miles of sprinkler pipe have you accepted for new construction?
It’s not a life changing thing, use enough tape you can make things work anywhere. But the misinformation is what you are saying, not me. Does it matter that much? Not really, you’re still wrong though.
@@Alansdadude All you're doing is proving that you don't undertamd how this stuff works.
Tape a thread. Assemble it like normal and check for leaks. Take it apart and remove the tape. Reassemble to the same thread depth and add a 1/4 turn or so. It will leak, I just about guarantee it. Take it apart, retape it and then go to the same thread depth as the previous time and it will seal. Because tape is a sealant.
Again, if it weren't then you could just brute force every pipe together dry and it would work fine, but it doesn't.
But I suspect you're so hard headed that you won't even try this and will stick to your bad information that's not based in reality. Or maybe you're the type to lie and say you did and got the opposite results, but I don't want to assume that ill of you when all I really know about you is you're stubbornly wrong about things.
I have a few plumbing projects coming up soon & these tips are really helpful. Thanks.
So glad it was helpful. Thank you
Much more info than I thought I ever needed but now glad I have
Thread tape and pipe dope help, but the real tip is realizing that the threads are tapered, smaller at the beginning of the threads gradually increasing in size and getting tighter the deeper you thread the fitting together, so the real seal comes from the threads making contact with each other the tighter the fitting gets. Anything else is supplementary/ good practice
Tape provides a second function beyond sealing: It helps reduce corrosion from between the 2 connected components and prevents them from being fused together. This is why I cover all the threads. I also use it on fittings that have a washer. It is the main reason I use it on all metal fittings and use it optionally for plastic fittings which don't have the corrosion issue.
These are all fantastic points! Thank you for sharing
The primary function of the tape is for lubrication, to allow the joint to be tightened properly without the threads seizing up or catching.
@@brnmcc01 Yep. Especially needed for stainless to keep from seizing. This would be the 3rd reason, but was covered in the video
It does prevent seizing, but it is not the primary purpose of the tape. It is a thread sealant first and foremost. It is referred to as "Thread Sealing PTFE Tape" in the teflon industry.
@@WillemFick Agreed. That is why I called it a "second function"
I always knew about winding it clockwise but I didn't know about going too far forward. thanks for the tip.
Glad to help!
Don't remember which way the tapes were place but will take note in future. Thanks!
Tape dope is not intended to be a sealer it is made to make threads slick so you can tighten down more turns. Pipe dope and string are a sealer.
Dope is almost mostly lubricant.
No dope is the sealant. It has a high enough ptfe content to seal well. Tape is the lubricant. It has very low ptfe content (although yellow tape has more).
Seriously just google “tape vs dope” ok. Stop passing the bad info.
Wrong, do the research. It is a pipe sealer.
@@Alansdadude wrong.
@@WesB1972 WRONG do the research it’s a thread lubricant that allows the threads to seal. Do tHe rEsEarCH
TAPE WAS “NEVER” MEANT TO BE A SEALER, ONLY MAKE IT EASIER TO REMOVE NEXT TIME.
From what I've been told by fastener & tape Mfg. Teflon tape is basically a form of lubricant that simply allows the tapered treads of your fittings to more smoothly and therefore more complete mesh/seal together. Threads are the seal and the tape helps obtain that seal.
I use the tape on hose fittings in recent years as well. My reason is I have noticed when I use brass hose fittings and metal non-brass shut off valves they seem to weld together. This did not used to happen in the past so not sure what changed, but the tape is preventing this from happening and it is a cheap easy preventative.
I got a chuckle out of that “like and subscribe” plug. Nicely done sir, nicely done! 🤣💥👊🏼
I was in charge of air lines among my constellation of responsibilities. I had assistants who agreed with me and universally thought little of Teflon tape. Always going back to redo for leaks. We went back to paste and never any more trouble with leaks.
Same goes for plumbing compression fittings that use an olive for sealing. Dont wrap the threads, put 2-3 wraps around the olive itself if it leaks, or use a jointing compound
i work on boilers. dope tape and dope as the old guys told me. they lived to go home and it works. remember to use items rated for your temps.
I worked with refrigerant plumbing a while back, and the pros told me to use normal teflon tape plus special refrigerant-grade pipe dope. Worked fine.
Thanks, your demo was leakproof .....& subscribe tucked into fitting was ingenious.😂
Stainless fitter from way back here. I was taught while doing stainless fittings to "scratch" the male thread up with a file edge a little. Helps hold the tape and stop it from unwinding while screwing fittings together. Not a leak yet. Just run the file across the threads and leave a scratch mark
Very good explaination. One thing is just a bit too perfect tho; have you ever seen a random diy'er with limited time on hand source a toothbrush and give every pipe a proper brush before diving into the work that has to be done? I know I dont 😂
Great video. A short explanation of pipe thread would clear up a lot of confusion.
As a heavy truck mechanic for over 30 years I can't tell you how many times I've seen where guys put it on compression and or flair fittings. Being that I work on a large fleet of mixers (cement trucks) I tend to need it fairly often. I just want to know what your take is for using pipe dope and any other guys that might see this comment. Also I've seen a couple videos showing that you are supposed to roll it up into a string and goes right down between the threads. Anyway ya I'm just curious to see what you and others think about it. Finally decent video and because of that I'm definitely going to go back and check out some of your videos from the past 👍🇨🇦🔧
Never heard of PTFE with Nickle, thanks!
A note on the connection's with rubber gaskets, I recommend using it when the connectors are dissimilar metals. I've started using it on my hose bibs and it makes it so much easier to remove them when I need to, because it acts as a barrier for galvanic corrosion.
you should have turned your tape roll around. thanks for sharing. goes on much easier. try it youll see. lots of piping experience from the refineries talking here
Rector seal is better for household plumbing anyway. The only thing I still use teflon tape for are threaded coolant fittings on cars.
I just love bonded seal, usit type whenever possible. My favorites are from Eisele, VS type, there you see on the rubber color what they are made for (FDA and such) and you can almost not over or undertighten the screw/fitting.
1:00 The "Like & Subscribe" notice inside the pipe was very clever!
I never knew it mattered thank you 😊
Excellent and very informative video! Another common mistake I see as a scientist (where Teflon is used on inert gas lines) is Teflon being used on fittings that aren't NPT fittings. If a compression fitting is leaky, Teflon isn't going to fix it.
I have also heard that Teflon shouldn't be used on hydraulic fittings. Is that true? I didn't see any on the old threads when I changed a hydraulic line on a front end loader.
I learned some things. Thanks!
Here in the Philippines, the “plumbers” use a ton of of teflon. Yesterday I watched then install my water meter. 1/2” stainless fittings. I counted 29 wraps
I also saw them back out (loosen) a rotation inviting a leak later.
A commercial plumber showed me to use the edges of the tape roll to push tape into the threads & then to add some dope on the threads. On copper pipe close to a wall he first installs a "donut" of solder around the joint then just heats up the pipe. The solder joint looks clean & even. Always use PEX A.
Reverse the roll to keep tension on the tape. Also use the flange of the tape roll to wind the tape into the root of the thread.
This prevents the tape unwinding when you screw the fitting in.
Good note to include check the fittings instructions/specs. Yes, they have them. Fttings will tell you how many wraps to make per it''s tolerance. It's not uncommon to see the manufacturer suggest 15 wraps on some fittings, probably cheap ones.
Would have been a good video to introduce Pipe dope. 90% of the time, that's all I'll use, but I did stainless steel pipe welding for Northrup Grumman for a couple of years, and that's all we used.
You’re hold the ptfe roll wrong. Fitting in left hand, trap the first part of the tape with your left thumb, while the roll is above the fitting with the tape feeding out at the bottom, the tape is then easier to keep under tension.
Or, bin the ptfe tape off and just use loctite 55
Was going to say the same. Also i was taught to lightly scratch across a few of brass fitting threads ( a hacksaw blade works well), which gives some burrs to hold tape while getting started wrapping, makes tensioning it easy. Not tried the loctite 55 cord myself, but used to use Loctite 567 a fair bit( off white paste in a tube). I also have used never seize at times. Another product we used (sometimes with hemp) was called X-pando, a grey powder you mix with water to make a paste, which expands with curing (boiler fittings etc), takes a good few sharp smacks to undo any fittings again later.
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Pipe threads are my nemesis. I've used tape, dope, both together, as well as less and more torque. Some fittings just don't want to seal and several times I've resorted to automotive sealant and allowing it to cure before pressurizing.
I've made a bunch of scientific test equipment over the years, and sometimes it is not affordable to avoid pipe threads-- which is the best course of action. When forced to use NPT, I've had better luck with the PTFE tape that is mil spec. It has a higher density and is more resistant to tearing than cheap hardware store tape. If that doesn't work-- and when you get into 2 and 3" pipes-- then sometimes it makes sense to epoxy seal the threads. I always used epoxy that was unfilled, which usually looks about the color of beer; you can see through it. You can add in some molybdium disulfide powder to the epoxy if you are concerned with stainless galling as it is tightened. Of course, there are applications where you don't want any chance of epoxy contamination like drinking water lines.
Before I installed some iron gas line I practiced with a length of pipe, end caps, an air fitting and a pressure gauge. I used tape, pressurized the pipe and waited several hours. It leaked. I used the pipe dope and repeated the test. No leak. I tried several more times. The pipe dope always worked. I was only able to get a seal using tape about 70% of the time. I used the pipe dope on the project. Zero leaks. Before you install gas lines, I suggest you practice.
*OUTSTANDING!*
Thank you!
Very good information! Thank you 😊
I made the mistake of applying gas line thread tape to my water heater fittings. I noticed it was the wrong tape a few weeks later. Surprisingly enough,its held up well.
THANKS FOR THE COLOR CODES OF TAPE USAGES.
I just learned that paste does not like multiple hot/cold cycles of a pipe connection exposed to weather in Texas.... Threaded connections of my generator gas hookup started leaking after about 4 years, as the paste had aged and gave up sealing. Now using the yellow PTFE tape and hope it won't happen again.
Thank you for sharing with us!
As a 45 yr as a plumber, I’d like to offer a game changer fir you. Turn yiur tape around so when putting on it will help keep pressure on fitting. If the thread diameter is smaller than the roll diameter it will unroll in yiur hand. Either way, using roll other way let’s yiu control the tape easier. Other than that great video, and I too can’t stress DO NOT PUT TAPE ON THE FIRST THREADS. Your absolutely right the tape will get into the plumbing.
The best use I found for PTFE tape is when the compression gland on stoptap or radiator valve leaks you can remove the compression nut, twist the PTFE tape into a thin cord and wrap it around the stem, push it into the gap with a thin screwdriver and then refit the compression nut. the tape is pushed down and compressed and stops the leak.
pink also works for gas, i only carry pink and grey tape. white tends to leak, plus its only good for up to 1/2" fittings.
Where I work (as a Pipefitter), by our company code we are not allowed to use any type of Teflon tape on gas fittings. Only gas rated pipe thread compound like Gasoila or other company approved gas rated compound (aka pipe dope)… The teflon tape threads can “find” their way into gas valves causing leaks and or failure.
One detail, stainless steels are usually the most susceptible to galling but almost any metal CAN gall under the right conditions. Copper and brass can definitely gall with enough unlubricated sliding contact at high contact pressure. It's just much less sensitive than stainless steel.
Actually used a regular tape on old steel fittings. The trick is to break the "don't cover first treads" rule and do the opposite - make a small skirt and bend it a bit inwards to wrap the metal (which is on a new fitting and often sharp). So when you screw it in, the skirt contacts with the seal and protects the seal from slight imperfections in metal.
Worked for me so far. Couldn't accomplish without a tape and didn't know of any better methods at the time.
I use almost exclusively stainless steel parts at work and I've never seen that special tape before, nevertheless I don't get leaks using ordinary tape. But to stop galling would be a nice bonus.
Excellent tutorial.
I always cut the ends of the tape with the scissors on my Victorinox pocket knife. This not only makes it look neater, but doesn't stretch the tape and cause strings.
I'm 61, started using PTFE tape when it first came out (5th grade) never leaked! Been in mechanical trades my whole life. Stop with the clickbait bullshit! Very easy to use! Works every time with just a couple of wraps!