In allot of industrial sites I've worked on (oil and gas) the use of ferrules on all connections, ELV or LV is mandated in panels, junction boxes or end devices. They are a good job and don't really take any longer once you get used to using them. They are especially good for connections that get removed now and then for testing or alterations, I think this is the main advantage in using them, you can terminate them multiple times and they still provide a perfect connection, twisted strands are only good for one or two terminations before they need to be restriped and twisted up again and the wire is getting shorter every time you do that!
@@abdulseaforth6930 I use the Wiha model in the video but also have a cheaper knipex pair for smaller stuff, see link in last comment. For ferrules I normally use RS Pro, same price as others, normally have stock and don’t keep changing part numbers so easy to reorder.
I came across this video while researching the use of ferrules; as I've always been uncomfortable with the way stranded wire gets chewed up. I didn't know you could get one to connect two wires together. Apart from protecting the wires, it solves the age-old problem of one wire slipping out when you are trying to put two into one connection. Love the video.
You don’t understand how excited I get about ferrules. You know that feeling when meet the woman of your dreams and your heart skips... this is up there honest 😂
I work offshore and all electrical connections are terminated with bootlace ferrules. As long as they fitted correctly and the right size ferrule is used they are excellent.
What a brilliant video. I don't know if it's just me, but this is the first video I've seen advocating the the use of ferrules in a domestic situation, inline with industrial standards where reliability is perhaps more important. Very well done sir, a point very well made! Perhaps I could add that the ferrules you are using have plastic end bits that are quite bulky, which is fine for one core, one termination. Where several wires are entering one termination though I find that plain ferrules are handier, and three or more cores can be inserted. I appreciate double type ferrules as you show are available but its not always the best solution. Once again many thanks for the great video.
This video actually made me subscribe !!! Your channel is excellent, i always learn new stuff, i previously used to solder my thinner cables, i never knew ferrells exsisted.. Many thanks
I learned about them a while back? but decided to buy some for a project I was working on. I built a UPS changeover switch ( after I needed it ) and decided that Ferrell's would be the best way to terminate connections. Changeover switch works great now I just have to repair and rebuild the UPS that decided to die.
Really useful video as it shows what some places don’t necessarily teach. Making a more quick and effective job. Especially the earthing ferrules. Also love those Wiha crimpers 😜!
Good video. Would love to see the difference in performance under a test between twisted and folded and a ferrule. I always use them as it makes like much easier in practical terms.
Bootlace ferrules are mandatory on fine stranded cables on our jobs, and because I'm picky, I make the lads put them on regular cables at dist boards if they're 2.5mm or smaller. This is to stop the copper crumbling away when the terminals are tightened right up.
thats good practice. im a panel basher, i work site all over. theres been a few times where the cabling guys have asked for some ferrules so i tend to keep extra, just to help out when i can.
To people who say just tin the wire (solder) I'm not 100% sure, but I heard : - When the wire get hot or whatever... it can melt the solder or soften over time... - Solder will soften overtime under mechanical stress connection This may lead to loose connection which is very bad (arching - overheating - cause fire - etc...) Correct me if I'm wrong... take it with a grain of salt
Standard on railway signalling cabinets. Should be able to just see the end of the strands at the front of the crimp. Tools were calibrated daily and pull test results logged in a book that stayed with the tool (both numbered).
I only wish all sparks would watch this video . It should be law to use these and the better quality Ferrell s also with the Wiha crimper you can place the Ferrell into the tool then closes the handles till the 1st click and it holds the Ferrell and you can easily insert the wire great video
Nice one, I’ve used ferrules before but my crimper was crap I’ve just got hex one like yours off eBay however I couldn’t afford one exactly like yours £350. I will use this video for the apprentices to watch many thanks
Can't beat a ferrule for stranded cable!👌 Best thing about them is it gives you the ability to cut down the neutral and functional earth on rcbos, making your boards nice and neat! Those wiha ferrule crimpers look awesome! Another thing added to the wish list!
I am an electrician in Brazil, I only use terminals, even if in a service I "lose a few cents" I prefer to lose than to make poor quality connections, in BR is totally widespread flexible cables, so for better connection are the terminals, I know many and many electricians even who were stopped in the time they do not use, I particularly think very pig
Nice video, another advantage ist that it also helps to keep moisture away from the copper. Other than that standard German colour scheme would be. White 0.5, grey 0.75, Black 1.5, Blue 2.5
Nice Video. I just got this tool, it seems to make much better crimps that others I've seen. Hopefully it will solve the issue of multiple wires going into a single breaker where some are getting loose after time due to minute differences in thickness or insertion angle.
Ferrules are incredible and underused. See them quite often in commercial BMS installations and they make a panel look so tidy and the terminations are much more effective than twisted strands, which often seem to break when the screw has been overtightened. Also, lots of panels use push fit connections, try pushing a twisted stranded cable into a push fit connector:/
been a panel wirer for years, having a ferrule end makes it easier and quicker to wire components. ive seen sparkys trying to put twisted pairs into terminals a couple of times ive let them use mine on site, justa bit shocked some dont use them.
Thanks for the video. I have been using ferrules for several years on all flexible cores. Something to bare in mind, they don't always work. I have had experience with terminating 1mm flex into a spur with a ferrule and they fall out, some spurs terminals can be too big for a small ferrule like 1mm or 0.75mm. So I have had to cut the ferrule off many times, twist and fold over to get my decent connection. This doesn't happen in all spurs depends on the branding, just double check them before screwing back.
I would make 2 comments here, which may have been addressed in other comments or videos, but no harm in repeating them. Firstly you should always make sure that the conductor strands reach the full length of the ferrule and secondly that crimping is only suitable for stranded conductors.
You don't really need to put a ferrule on solid copper wire anyways. The purpose of a ferrule designed specifically to make the stripped ends of stranded wires mimic the properties of solid ones.
The correct answer is you should use whatever the electrical code specifies in the locality where you are! Having done high-tech installations in over 20 countries, I can tell you what is “required” in one place is specifically disallowed in another. Interestingly, it’s in the UK where I have seen these ferrules disallowed, because the wire can actually slip out of them, even when you think you’ve got a great, snug connection. All is not always what it seems, so go by the book, and never assume the way you learned, or the way you think is best is the way to do it wherever you are.
When it slips out it wasn't crimped properly. If you make a good crimp connection and try to pull it off the wire, the copper wire itself will fail before the crimped connection. I've seen guys trying to crimp ferrules with their combination pliers because they hadn't the proper crimping tool. No wonder that such crimps will fail...
The issue that I have had is that a cable that will fit into a conection with out . Some times will no longer fit into the connection after you have crimped a ferule on to it .
@@hotrex7779 It depends also on the shape of the crimp, the square shaped crimps don't make so much trouble. It also depends on the type of connector and it's current rating. You can't put a 1.5mm² with a ferrule in a 10A terminal, but in a 16A one they'll fit.
youve seen these disallowed in the uk. what industry was that in. think youll find many panel companies use these. its not hard to use the right crimping tool for the job. plus dont put a 2.5 ferral on a 1mm cable.
Pull test it before and see if it comes off I pulled loads off of when no cables were twisted and red faces all around for younger engineers 😷I always twist the cable first never pulled one off when I did that.
You don’t need to twist when using ferrules it can make it harder to insert the conductors into the ferrule Helps keep cable numbers from falling off too 👍
Definitely a good idea for the typical 7 copper core house wiring. The problem is that electricians have a bad habit of leaving barely any slack inside fittings and screws in the terminals nick the cores, so that when replacing a fitting invariably some of the cores snap while trying to insert or screw the wire into the new fitting. Once the wire is stripped back a bit to expose intact cores the wire is so short it is almost impossible to get it inserted with the fitting out of the wall. A ferrule protecting the cores would hopefully solve this.
"The problem is that electricians have a bad habit of leaving barely any slack inside fittings..." That's called bad practice, or a plasterer who cut 'those annoying unnecessary long cables' between first and second fixing. Good electricians leave enough slack on their cable to reach the end of the fitting opposite of where the cable enters and then bend back to the terminal, or even a bit more than that.
I hope the follow-up video will address the use of Farrell's on solid core cabling and twisting conductor strands together before inserting into Farrell's. The only thing I haven't seen is a way of doing two cables that would later need to be separated for testing? Say rings.
Is there anyway or better type of ferrule to buy, that will not break over time? Tried to use these in our company projects, but overtime, with minimal movement, the ferrules break where it becomes plastic... I love the look and feel of the ferrules, but it can't come the cost of functionality.
Awesome video! I'm an auto electrician by trade and I work out in rural areas, and there is a tool at the start of the video I have not seen before, but been thinking about making! it's that handy wire roll holder on the right side of the screen in the first 30 seconds of the video. I work in a workshop, and I have been lucky enough that the bollards used to keep cars in the workshop at night are a smaller diameter than the inside of my rolls of wire that I work with, however I don't always have access to these bollards due to where the cars are positioned sometimes, and due to being in a workshop with other people. Also, these bollards require a hole in solid ground with a steel pipe inserted into concrete in order to work, and that setup just isn't portable for the times I am having to work outside of the workshop and on somebody's farm. I don't suppose you would have a link to where someone could purchase this product in Australia?
Hi. Your video was super useful. I have an arcade joystick to keyboard connector block and the cables are super thin and this tool will do the trick. Many thanks.
Would you use ferrules on hard (non-flexible) wires, if not what would you use? Is using ferrules or other crimping connectors needed for solid (non-stranded) wires?
i was always taught , to only crimp things on stranded conductors and not solid conductors. i tend to use them on meter tails, there was a time when hager consumer units came with a pair for the meter tails. And that was when hager were seen as a cheap brand totally different from todays image of hager.
There is a good thread on IEE about this and one chap is adament they should not be used on solid core conductors. Others whom worked on MOD projects also said the same!
Great video giving examples. Had the debate with our qs when I put on an EICR that neutral fly leads on rcbos had been shortened and only twisted in terminal. I gave it a c2 and said its a regulation to use them. 526.9.1 he said that must be a new reg so I continued to show him it in the 17th and in the 16th. But yes all who don't use them when using screw terminals should really change as soon as its pointed out to them. However the guys on site will call it a specialist tool and expect company to supply it. That said I have 4 in van 1. 25,35,50. 2. 6,10,16 3. 0.5-6 and 4. 0.25-10. Number 4 is favorite as is a clone of knipex on amazon costing £12.
@@lucidlx I'm guessing you looked it up. There can be confusion on screw type connectors as some have a little plate which separates the screw tip from the conductors. That said if you have the tool its a good habit to get in to regardless on type of connection. I personally wouldn't use them on lever wagos though as they aren't as solid as a typical crimp lug
Great videos guys... anyone who occassionally listens to the radio will surely recognize the voice of Danny Kelly here... has anyone ever said that before?
Thanks for the video. At first, this topic is a bit of a minefield with such enormous variation in a number of variables for the process of crimping. May be doing a detailed look at all the different types would be helpful such as self adjustable square vs. hexagonal crimping tools etc...Also, the variation in quality of these tools is enormous from cheap chinese designs up to what I could see as one of the best manufacturers being Weidmuller. I would imagine there is also quite a variation in quality due to the standard of ferrules themselves. What could have given clarity to this video would have been taking measurements on a voltmeter to prove the ferrule was a better connection in comparison to the bare wire... may be one for the future! : )
Problem beeing you would probably not see a difference when measuring resistance, even if only one strand of the bunch was connected, as the higher resistance path would be very short. However you would still have that high resistance spot, which would create a hotspot at higher currents. Quite misleading if you are measuring resistance and thought its alright, while in fact it isnt. Though you could pass a few amps through it and measure voltage drop, that would work better.
Surprised there was no tangible evidence provided with this video. Could you not have checked the resistance of each connection? Would this have provided data on how "clean" the connections are comparatively. Also, no sort of pull out force was completed either or specified torque on the connection? I agree that ferrules are an improvement if used correctly but how often are the non-ferrule installations failing really?
Perhaps not fail but does make work harder. I work fire alarms and though it works the wires become a pain after a while wire messes up not a lot of slack to keep cutting clean ends etc
one big issue tho - someone thinks crimping is a good idea so they choose a crimp, its slightly too big, gets a poor crimp, the screw grips the crimp but the wires fall out of the crimp. very important to get the right crimp for the cable csa
Hi John, You can get ferrules in the NA market. When I worked in NJ we used to get them from Digikey - www.digikey.co.uk/en/product-highlight/a/american-electrical/crimp-wire-ferrules - listed in AWG Cheers *Gordon
These look fantastic and I love the mechanics on that tool, so simple, making electricians lives easier. Is there any limitations though to where these can be used?
Really good and looks professional.only problem would be that it would take you twice as long on a house rewire. I only use them on a consumer unit at the moment
OK, cool, nice cool crimper there. even though this is a uk vid, I think its applicable to what I do in Chicago here in US. When I did electronics we just tin the leads after stripping and twisting, this is too much to do in an electrical installation in a house of course but in controls I think it would be added value. I work in commercial HVAC so I'm constantly troubleshooting problems in controls and much of the time its poor terminal terminations. These are very small poorly positioned terminal blocks with small wiring often twisted shielded wire. I like the idea of using crimped pins like this however I don't think its practical on small gauge wiring like in control wiring, so I'd like to see a way or process in fast reliable bulk tinning to be used in control wiring installations. I think its value added considering I've spent 2 full days pulling ceiling tiles and crawling around above ceilings on planks to get to every micro control in a Victoria Secret to perform a "tug test" on each and every wire termination only to find one single poorly done wire causing the whole system not to work.
Thanks for some info from across the pond. The crimped we used will go down to 0.08mm2 - and the ferrules start at 0.14mm2 - so will work on the smallest of control wiring.
NEVER EVER tin connections that will be used in screw terminals. The solder will "cold flow" and the connection will ALWAYS become loose over a few months. I have been to many jobs where this has happened and caused arcing. Obviously this is a massive fire risk. Also it's against the UK electrical regs to tin wire (526.9.2). Ferrules are just the right way to terminate stranded wire.
Johnny B most all issues come down to the workmanship. Think about this. There was a time when pulling a ground wire was not required. Sloppy workmanship like not tightening set screws and lock nuts gave us that. Arc fault breakers would not be needed if not for bad splices
@@gerhardschemel3565 agree, In Chicago, or whats called the 6 county area of Chicago, we have some of the strictest electrical codes. I'm not an electrician but I have worked as one and I do commercial HVAC so I'm always working on electrical and controls. We are required to pull a ground wire on every piece of equipment and it has to be landed in the panel. My biggest head ache is control wiring, one little wire not landed tight, can cause an intermittent program execution error that can be nearly impossible to find. compounded by the owners don't want to spend a lot of money troubleshooting on a hunch its a loosely landed wire. I looked up the equivalent american product and I think I want to get a kit when I get back to work after the pandemic, if I survive it.
Haven't seen on comercial sites that someone are using them, although it is a must. Totally mess on the electrical installations on sites even it is passed testing and certification, who will do the maintenance is gonna cry
Great vid, I have been connecting wires all my life the old way, I will start using this system now. I had to keep laughing when inserting the wire you kept saying , ( like so ) I will have to say that to the wife tonight.
Great video! We use ferrules all time using the single wire connectors similar to what is showed at 7:33. Looking at your example, I can see some of the barrel of the ferrule poking out not allowing the shoulder of the ferrule to butt up against the connector. I like to cut off the end of the ferrule so that none of the barrel shows and the shoulder (the plastic part) is butted up against the connector (if that makes sense). My question is if that is good practice or not to cut the end off? or if you know what the standard is. Any info would be appreciated.
Maybe a silly question, but I run into equipment that spec "use copper conductors only." Does the ferrule still satisfy this specification? I saw another comment here regarding checking and comparing continuity of bare vs. ferruled conductors.
When you see “copper” only it really means don’t use aluminium as they require special precautions. Ferrules are made of tinned copper so should be an issue. You can find white papers on the web comparing long term performance of bare copper vs ferruled conductors - ferrules win
@@efixx excellent. I appreciate your videos and info. I'm in a very unrelated field, here in California, but I'm always trying to do my best for my clients. Thank you.
Never saw a sixteen sided crimping tool, I have a four sided in the same style and an old school one with the two faces pressing into each other. Would you say one with more pressing sides (basically making the surface more round I guess?) Is better than one with less pressed sides like a two ore four sided one? Greetings from Germany ✌
i use ferrules everywhere i can get them in they’re the best back of light switches where you’ve got one cable going into the terminals or in a consumer unit on circuits where it’s only got one cable for the terminal i wish they’d design one so you could somehow put two conductors in so i could use them on rings and where you’ve got 2 or sometimes 3 cables going into a point
I tried using ferrules on the 3 pin plug. Since the wire, especially the neutral wire has to turn 180 degrees, there is a kink when the wire comes out of the ferrule. Should ferrules be used for 3 pin plugs?
@@efixx Thanks, that's what I use as the insulated ones are too long to fit. However, the edge of the flute is still very thin and fairly sharp so over time, it may cut or nick the wires though the cord restrainer will help movement to a certain extent. Regardless, thanks for sharing. Appreciate your videos.
Good vid, one thing missed is that a lot of times the screw in these terminal blocks quite often cuts a few strands, that can then end up in very undesirable places. It's a pity ferrule's are not stocked by hobbyist style electronics shops, you have to go to larger electrical suppliers that can be a tad hostile to hobbyists. (they can be trade only, need an account, and only talk big $$$ sales orders)
Yes you can use them. But you shouldnt with wagos at least. You will actually get a better connection with stranded wire without a ferrule because of the way wago terminals are holding the wire. Most wago terminals have actually a higher current rating with stranded wire compared to solid wire.
When shortening rcbo leads i almost only ever use a 4mm grey bootlace ferrule. Now as the size of the neutral for the 6A and 32A differ i should probably be using a blue 2.5mm for the 6A but i find the larger grey gets crimped very tightly although its not a perfectly square crimp. The screw terminations torqued to 2Nm further compress and tighten the ferrule. The only time id be concerned with getting a compressed slightly distorted ferrule is if it were being used in a square clamp and the square edge was required for contact. Anyone disagree?
DIN 46228 is the german standard for them, not only for the colour of the collar, also for the material and sizes. The french standard is NF C 63-023, canadian standard is C22.2 NO. 291-14. Also there's a UL listing (UL 486F) for these ferrules. The ferrules themself are made of 0.15mm thick copper of high purity (electrolytically refined copper, 99.99%). In most cases they're tinned to prevent corrosion. But there are also silver or gold plated ones available. But in most cases the tin plated are used. The collar is made of polypropylene or PA6.6.
You would probably be using solid core on a ring final wouldn't you? in that case you wouldn't bother, but you could do each separate and put two in a terminal if needed.
In allot of industrial sites I've worked on (oil and gas) the use of ferrules on all connections, ELV or LV is mandated in panels, junction boxes or end devices. They are a good job and don't really take any longer once you get used to using them. They are especially good for connections that get removed now and then for testing or alterations, I think this is the main advantage in using them, you can terminate them multiple times and they still provide a perfect connection, twisted strands are only good for one or two terminations before they need to be restriped and twisted up again and the wire is getting shorter every time you do that!
Wise words!
What ferrule crimper do you use Phil?
@@abdulseaforth6930 I use the Wiha model in the video but also have a cheaper knipex pair for smaller stuff, see link in last comment. For ferrules I normally use RS Pro, same price as others, normally have stock and don’t keep changing part numbers so easy to reorder.
I was a HVAC lecturer for 12 years towards the end of my working life and your video was as good as it gets at getting your message across
Wow - Thanks!
I came across this video while researching the use of ferrules; as I've always been uncomfortable with the way stranded wire gets chewed up. I didn't know you could get one to connect two wires together. Apart from protecting the wires, it solves the age-old problem of one wire slipping out when you are trying to put two into one connection. Love the video.
You don’t understand how excited I get about ferrules. You know that feeling when meet the woman of your dreams and your heart skips... this is up there honest 😂
Once you go ferrule you can't ever go back. So clean and safe!
I didn't know those double ones, though - that's why I subscribed to your channel 🙂
Do ferrules come lose ? I want to start using them but i feel like it will come out .
@@sd-pb6qn they are pretty much secure. But why don't you make a test? It's cheap, and you will see for yourself if it's any good for your needs
I work offshore and all electrical connections are terminated with bootlace ferrules. As long as they fitted correctly and the right size ferrule is used they are excellent.
Watching this was so therapeutic. Something about ferrules is so satisfying. Very professional, love the hexagonal crimps too.
Not an electrician - I'm even using these in my 3d printers now, and they've made an incredible difference. Easier maintenance, too! Thanks.
What a brilliant video. I don't know if it's just me, but this is the first video I've seen advocating the the use of ferrules in a domestic situation, inline with industrial standards where reliability is perhaps more important. Very well done sir, a point very well made!
Perhaps I could add that the ferrules you are using have plastic end bits that are quite bulky, which is fine for one core, one termination. Where several wires are entering one termination though I find that plain ferrules are handier, and three or more cores can be inserted. I appreciate double type ferrules as you show are available but its not always the best solution.
Once again many thanks for the great video.
A great example of reg 526.1 comes in to play, cheers Gary
i have only recently discovered ferrules no more twisting wires
This video actually made me subscribe !!! Your channel is excellent, i always learn new stuff, i previously used
to solder my thinner cables, i never knew ferrells exsisted.. Many thanks
Thanks for the feedback!
Looks like a great idea. I think I saw a video where "My trusted electrician" was using them.
I learned about them a while back? but decided to buy some for a project I was working on. I built a UPS changeover switch ( after I needed it ) and decided that Ferrell's would be the best way to terminate connections. Changeover switch works great now I just have to repair and rebuild the UPS that decided to die.
Really useful video as it shows what some places don’t necessarily teach. Making a more quick and effective job. Especially the earthing ferrules. Also love those Wiha crimpers 😜!
Good video. Would love to see the difference in performance under a test between twisted and folded and a ferrule. I always use them as it makes like much easier in practical terms.
Bootlace ferrules are mandatory on fine stranded cables on our jobs, and because I'm picky, I make the lads put them on regular cables at dist boards if they're 2.5mm or smaller.
This is to stop the copper crumbling away when the terminals are tightened right up.
thats good practice. im a panel basher, i work site all over. theres been a few times where the cabling guys have asked for some ferrules so i tend to keep extra, just to help out when i can.
To people who say just tin the wire (solder)
I'm not 100% sure, but I heard :
- When the wire get hot or whatever... it can melt the solder or soften over time...
- Solder will soften overtime under mechanical stress connection
This may lead to loose connection which is very bad (arching - overheating - cause fire - etc...)
Correct me if I'm wrong... take it with a grain of salt
Standard on railway signalling cabinets. Should be able to just see the end of the strands at the front of the crimp. Tools were calibrated daily and pull test results logged in a book that stayed with the tool (both numbered).
I only wish all sparks would watch this video . It should be law to use these and the better quality Ferrell s also with the Wiha crimper you can place the Ferrell into the tool then closes the handles till the 1st click and it holds the Ferrell and you can easily insert the wire great video
Nice one, I’ve used ferrules before but my crimper was crap I’ve just got hex one like yours off eBay however I couldn’t afford one exactly like yours £350. I will use this video for the apprentices to watch many thanks
Can't beat a ferrule for stranded cable!👌 Best thing about them is it gives you the ability to cut down the neutral and functional earth on rcbos, making your boards nice and neat! Those wiha ferrule crimpers look awesome! Another thing added to the wish list!
I am an electrician in Brazil, I only use terminals, even if in a service I "lose a few cents" I prefer to lose than to make poor quality connections, in BR is totally widespread flexible cables, so for better connection are the terminals, I know many and many electricians even who were stopped in the time they do not use, I particularly think very pig
Nice video, another advantage ist that it also helps to keep moisture away from the copper. Other than that standard German colour scheme would be. White 0.5, grey 0.75, Black 1.5, Blue 2.5
Nice Video. I just got this tool, it seems to make much better crimps that others I've seen. Hopefully it will solve the issue of multiple wires going into a single breaker where some are getting loose after time due to minute differences in thickness or insertion angle.
Nice ferrule crimper. Like the idea of the guide
Ferrules are incredible and underused. See them quite often in commercial BMS installations and they make a panel look so tidy and the terminations are much more effective than twisted strands, which often seem to break when the screw has been overtightened. Also, lots of panels use push fit connections, try pushing a twisted stranded cable into a push fit connector:/
been a panel wirer for years, having a ferrule end makes it easier and quicker to wire components. ive seen sparkys trying to put twisted pairs into terminals a couple of times ive let them use mine on site, justa bit shocked some dont use them.
Just been watching this video. Is there any "Electrical Measurement " that can show the practical benefit of using ferrules?
I was waiting for that. A resistance reading with and without...
Ferules are great, just need to compare them with their continuety tests between normal terminations to feruled. See if there is a difference.
Thanks for the video. I have been using ferrules for several years on all flexible cores. Something to bare in mind, they don't always work. I have had experience with terminating 1mm flex into a spur with a ferrule and they fall out, some spurs terminals can be too big for a small ferrule like 1mm or 0.75mm. So I have had to cut the ferrule off many times, twist and fold over to get my decent connection.
This doesn't happen in all spurs depends on the branding, just double check them before screwing back.
Great point 👍
Danish Name for Ferrules: Terminalerør - tylle. Use them a lot when I do industrial work. 💪🏻🇩🇰
Great to learn the different words people use - Thanks!
Dutch word for it is "adereindhuls".
I would make 2 comments here, which may have been addressed in other comments or videos, but no harm in repeating them. Firstly you should always make sure that the conductor strands reach the full length of the ferrule and secondly that crimping is only suitable for stranded conductors.
You don't really need to put a ferrule on solid copper wire anyways. The purpose of a ferrule designed specifically to make the stripped ends of stranded wires mimic the properties of solid ones.
True. Just thought it was worth a mention as I have seen people putting crimps on solid wires. They inevitably come off with very little effort.
The correct answer is you should use whatever the electrical code specifies in the locality where you are! Having done high-tech installations in over 20 countries, I can tell you what is “required” in one place is specifically disallowed in another. Interestingly, it’s in the UK where I have seen these ferrules disallowed, because the wire can actually slip out of them, even when you think you’ve got a great, snug connection. All is not always what it seems, so go by the book, and never assume the way you learned, or the way you think is best is the way to do it wherever you are.
When it slips out it wasn't crimped properly. If you make a good crimp connection and try to pull it off the wire, the copper wire itself will fail before the crimped connection. I've seen guys trying to crimp ferrules with their combination pliers because they hadn't the proper crimping tool. No wonder that such crimps will fail...
The issue that I have had is that a cable that will fit into a conection with out . Some times will no longer fit into the connection after you have crimped a ferule on to it .
@@hotrex7779 It depends also on the shape of the crimp, the square shaped crimps don't make so much trouble.
It also depends on the type of connector and it's current rating. You can't put a 1.5mm² with a ferrule in a 10A terminal, but in a 16A one they'll fit.
youve seen these disallowed in the uk. what industry was that in. think youll find many panel companies use these. its not hard to use the right crimping tool for the job. plus dont put a 2.5 ferral on a 1mm cable.
Pull test it before and see if it comes off I pulled loads off of when no cables were twisted and red faces all around for younger engineers 😷I always twist the cable first never pulled one off when I did that.
Thanks for that Michael
You don’t need to twist when using ferrules it can make it harder to insert the conductors into the ferrule
Helps keep cable numbers from falling off too 👍
Great #electricians #toptips - thanks
efixx : would ferrules be suitable for a marine environment? I am thinking about a 220v/16 amp shore-power connection.
@@ianrobinson6788 Yes they would, we use them offshore and onboard ships all the time.
Uther : Thanks for your reply. Would they need to be A2 stainless steel (not sure if you could crimp stainless or not?) or are just standard ones OK?
Can you please explain ( helps keep cable numbers from falling off too ) ?
As I always twist the strands in any crimp or connection.
These are epic for central heating systems....especially Nests!
Definitely a good idea for the typical 7 copper core house wiring. The problem is that electricians have a bad habit of leaving barely any slack inside fittings and screws in the terminals nick the cores, so that when replacing a fitting invariably some of the cores snap while trying to insert or screw the wire into the new fitting. Once the wire is stripped back a bit to expose intact cores the wire is so short it is almost impossible to get it inserted with the fitting out of the wall. A ferrule protecting the cores would hopefully solve this.
"The problem is that electricians have a bad habit of leaving barely any slack inside fittings..." That's called bad practice, or a plasterer who cut 'those annoying unnecessary long cables' between first and second fixing. Good electricians leave enough slack on their cable to reach the end of the fitting opposite of where the cable enters and then bend back to the terminal, or even a bit more than that.
Best use I’ve found is using a twin to get 2x4mm2 in the back of a tight socket.
This Wiha crimper is nice but super expensive. Got the Knipex 9772180 myself for about 30 euros 0.25 to 16mm2 cables.
I hope the follow-up video will address the use of Farrell's on solid core cabling and twisting conductor strands together before inserting into Farrell's. The only thing I haven't seen is a way of doing two cables that would later need to be separated for testing? Say rings.
Excellent demo. Even an amateur DIY'er like me can see the sense of using these ferrules.
Yet a professional electronics engineer thinks it's nonsense. Go figure!
Geoff Brown I noticed when I was training in electronics some engineers were “old school” but as you say, go figure.
At 4.40. Is that Ferrell too long if you have a cable coming in the other side?
Is there anyway or better type of ferrule to buy, that will not break over time? Tried to use these in our company projects, but overtime, with minimal movement, the ferrules break where it becomes plastic...
I love the look and feel of the ferrules, but it can't come the cost of functionality.
Really good info, i hadn't thought about using them this way.
Use a CK 430029 myself but that WIHA is superb quality & obviously pricey :)
Best thing to use on flex
Awesome video! I'm an auto electrician by trade and I work out in rural areas, and there is a tool at the start of the video I have not seen before, but been thinking about making! it's that handy wire roll holder on the right side of the screen in the first 30 seconds of the video. I work in a workshop, and I have been lucky enough that the bollards used to keep cars in the workshop at night are a smaller diameter than the inside of my rolls of wire that I work with, however I don't always have access to these bollards due to where the cars are positioned sometimes, and due to being in a workshop with other people. Also, these bollards require a hole in solid ground with a steel pipe inserted into concrete in order to work, and that setup just isn't portable for the times I am having to work outside of the workshop and on somebody's farm. I don't suppose you would have a link to where someone could purchase this product in Australia?
Hi. Your video was super useful. I have an arcade joystick to keyboard connector block and the cables are super thin and this tool will do the trick. Many thanks.
Another great video. Will need to start using these.
Would you use ferrules on hard (non-flexible) wires, if not what would you use? Is using ferrules or other crimping connectors needed for solid (non-stranded) wires?
Wow ...that Wiha crimper is a beauty. So slick ! ! Gaz 👍..
and i quite agree , ferrule way better connection. ..🌲☃️🎄🎁👍
Ive always used these, meet loads of sparks that have never seen them. I have wired a good amount of machines
i was always taught , to only crimp things on stranded conductors and not solid conductors. i tend to use them on meter tails, there was a time when hager consumer units came with a pair for the meter tails. And that was when hager were seen as a cheap brand totally different from todays image of hager.
There is a good thread on IEE about this and one chap is adament they should not be used on solid core conductors. Others whom worked on MOD projects also said the same!
Great video giving examples. Had the debate with our qs when I put on an EICR that neutral fly leads on rcbos had been shortened and only twisted in terminal. I gave it a c2 and said its a regulation to use them. 526.9.1 he said that must be a new reg so I continued to show him it in the 17th and in the 16th. But yes all who don't use them when using screw terminals should really change as soon as its pointed out to them. However the guys on site will call it a specialist tool and expect company to supply it. That said I have 4 in van 1. 25,35,50. 2. 6,10,16 3. 0.5-6 and 4. 0.25-10. Number 4 is favorite as is a clone of knipex on amazon costing £12.
We would be keen to see an example used on the flexible 19 strand 25mm meter tails!
I am a dinosaur when it comes to tech despite 18 years as a sparky but I could email some photos of before and after into a Henley block if any use
I didn't realise it was in the regs! Also tinning is NOT permitted in the regs.
@@lucidlx I'm guessing you looked it up. There can be confusion on screw type connectors as some have a little plate which separates the screw tip from the conductors. That said if you have the tool its a good habit to get in to regardless on type of connection. I personally wouldn't use them on lever wagos though as they aren't as solid as a typical crimp lug
Thomas, what make is that Knipex look alike?
In india we see these as valueless but it is good compare to old method. We use old method since long. Nothing problem in electrical disruption.
Exactly.
The ferrele kit I have has a mixture of French and German colour code. Was getting confused at first trying to follow one chart
Great videos guys... anyone who occassionally listens to the radio will surely recognize the voice of Danny Kelly here... has anyone ever said that before?
Really like these don't know why they are not required everywhere it should be imho
Can't you use the flat blade type crimp instead of ferrules? This one works with the most common crimping tool
For residential wiring do you use 3 strand thick wire or 40 strand thin wires. Both have same amerage ratings.
Thanks for the video. At first, this topic is a bit of a minefield with such enormous variation in a number of variables for the process of crimping. May be doing a detailed look at all the different types would be helpful such as self adjustable square vs. hexagonal crimping tools etc...Also, the variation in quality of these tools is enormous from cheap chinese designs up to what I could see as one of the best manufacturers being Weidmuller. I would imagine there is also quite a variation in quality due to the standard of ferrules themselves. What could have given clarity to this video would have been taking measurements on a voltmeter to prove the ferrule was a better connection in comparison to the bare wire... may be one for the future! : )
Problem beeing you would probably not see a difference when measuring resistance, even if only one strand of the bunch was connected, as the higher resistance path would be very short. However you would still have that high resistance spot, which would create a hotspot at higher currents. Quite misleading if you are measuring resistance and thought its alright, while in fact it isnt.
Though you could pass a few amps through it and measure voltage drop, that would work better.
Surprised there was no tangible evidence provided with this video.
Could you not have checked the resistance of each connection? Would this have provided data on how "clean" the connections are comparatively.
Also, no sort of pull out force was completed either or specified torque on the connection?
I agree that ferrules are an improvement if used correctly but how often are the non-ferrule installations failing really?
Perhaps not fail but does make work harder. I work fire alarms and though it works the wires become a pain after a while wire messes up not a lot of slack to keep cutting clean ends etc
I've always used the practise of using ferrules in panel wiring.
one big issue tho - someone thinks crimping is a good idea so they choose a crimp, its slightly too big, gets a poor crimp, the screw grips the crimp but the wires fall out of the crimp. very important to get the right crimp for the cable csa
Ferrules should not be used to make a bad idea better, they are not the "Answer" as you say to good workmanship.
I absolutely Love the idea, but all the ferrels are in MM's instead of AWG... do you know if they are made for the N. America market?
Hi John,
You can get ferrules in the NA market. When I worked in NJ we used to get them from Digikey - www.digikey.co.uk/en/product-highlight/a/american-electrical/crimp-wire-ferrules - listed in AWG
Cheers *Gordon
Just bought a ferrule crimper and I have a CU change tomorrow 😎
I've wondered since I was kid ( a v. long time) how poor the contact area is on a stripped conductor.
i got irwin vise grip wire strippers how i use it to crimping ferrules?!
Nice video! Well presented and filmed. Great content, I like it, thumbs up and subscribed!
Great video, going to buy a ferrule crimping tool now.
Go for it!
I’m not even an electrician but makes sense 👍🏻👍🏻 good learning video!
These look fantastic and I love the mechanics on that tool, so simple, making electricians lives easier. Is there any limitations though to where these can be used?
For some neason ferrurles are not required by the US National Electrical Code
How much should I expect to pay for a good ferrule crimp tool in US Dollars?
150 - 200 - Wiha, KNIPEX or for big bucks - Weidmuller
Can you make a video showing how to use ferrils to make wiring easy in connecting and preparing an electrical plug for a stove or any plug.
Like this 👉czcams.com/users/shorts4HvLTNy_uyw?feature=share
I like the cupholder.
Great video and well presented what size crimps are those that your using?
Really good and looks professional.only problem would be that it would take you twice as long on a house rewire. I only use them on a consumer unit at the moment
Why would you need multi-stranded wire for a house rewire anyway?
Really informative - great work guys
OK, cool, nice cool crimper there. even though this is a uk vid, I think its applicable to what I do in Chicago here in US. When I did electronics we just tin the leads after stripping and twisting, this is too much to do in an electrical installation in a house of course but in controls I think it would be added value. I work in commercial HVAC so I'm constantly troubleshooting problems in controls and much of the time its poor terminal terminations. These are very small poorly positioned terminal blocks with small wiring often twisted shielded wire. I like the idea of using crimped pins like this however I don't think its practical on small gauge wiring like in control wiring, so I'd like to see a way or process in fast reliable bulk tinning to be used in control wiring installations. I think its value added considering I've spent 2 full days pulling ceiling tiles and crawling around above ceilings on planks to get to every micro control in a Victoria Secret to perform a "tug test" on each and every wire termination only to find one single poorly done wire causing the whole system not to work.
Thanks for some info from across the pond. The crimped we used will go down to 0.08mm2 - and the ferrules start at 0.14mm2 - so will work on the smallest of control wiring.
NEVER EVER tin connections that will be used in screw terminals. The solder will "cold flow" and the connection will ALWAYS become loose over a few months. I have been to many jobs where this has happened and caused arcing. Obviously this is a massive fire risk. Also it's against the UK electrical regs to tin wire (526.9.2). Ferrules are just the right way to terminate stranded wire.
Johnny B most all issues come down to the workmanship. Think about this. There was a time when pulling a ground wire was not required. Sloppy workmanship like not tightening set screws and lock nuts gave us that. Arc fault breakers would not be needed if not for bad splices
@@gerhardschemel3565 agree, In Chicago, or whats called the 6 county area of Chicago, we have some of the strictest electrical codes. I'm not an electrician but I have worked as one and I do commercial HVAC so I'm always working on electrical and controls. We are required to pull a ground wire on every piece of equipment and it has to be landed in the panel. My biggest head ache is control wiring, one little wire not landed tight, can cause an intermittent program execution error that can be nearly impossible to find. compounded by the owners don't want to spend a lot of money troubleshooting on a hunch its a loosely landed wire. I looked up the equivalent american product and I think I want to get a kit when I get back to work after the pandemic, if I survive it.
A very helpful video - thanks
Are there any problems that cant be solved with a ferrule?
Stupidity?
@@geoffbrown2047 you really dont like ferrules
Haven't seen on comercial sites that someone are using them, although it is a must. Totally mess on the electrical installations on sites even it is passed testing and certification, who will do the maintenance is gonna cry
Great vid, I have been connecting wires all my life the old way, I will start using this system now. I had to keep laughing when inserting the wire you kept saying , ( like so ) I will have to say that to the wife tonight.
Great video! We use ferrules all time using the single wire connectors similar to what is showed at 7:33. Looking at your example, I can see some of the barrel of the ferrule poking out not allowing the shoulder of the ferrule to butt up against the connector. I like to cut off the end of the ferrule so that none of the barrel shows and the shoulder (the plastic part) is butted up against the connector (if that makes sense). My question is if that is good practice or not to cut the end off? or if you know what the standard is. Any info would be appreciated.
Maybe a silly question, but I run into equipment that spec "use copper conductors only." Does the ferrule still satisfy this specification?
I saw another comment here regarding checking and comparing continuity of bare vs. ferruled conductors.
When you see “copper” only it really means don’t use aluminium as they require special precautions. Ferrules are made of tinned copper so should be an issue. You can find white papers on the web comparing long term performance of bare copper vs ferruled conductors - ferrules win
@@efixx excellent. I appreciate your videos and info. I'm in a very unrelated field, here in California, but I'm always trying to do my best for my clients. Thank you.
Never saw a sixteen sided crimping tool, I have a four sided in the same style and an old school one with the two faces pressing into each other. Would you say one with more pressing sides (basically making the surface more round I guess?) Is better than one with less pressed sides like a two ore four sided one?
Greetings from Germany ✌
Depends upon the type of terminal - hexagon slightly better for round holes. Square for square.
Depends upon the type of terminal - hexagon slightly better for round holes. Square for square.
@@efixx so having both around might be a good idea. Thanks. I suppose the hexagon one is more expensive?
i use ferrules everywhere i can get them in they’re the best back of light switches where you’ve got one cable going into the terminals or in a consumer unit on circuits where it’s only got one cable for the terminal i wish they’d design one so you could somehow put two conductors in so i could use them on rings and where you’ve got 2 or sometimes 3 cables going into a point
Excellent 👍🏼
Where did youu get that wire stripper....mske??
I tried using ferrules on the 3 pin plug. Since the wire, especially the neutral wire has to turn 180 degrees, there is a kink when the wire comes out of the ferrule. Should ferrules be used for 3 pin plugs?
Check out this video - you’ll see an example of a plug using uninsulated ferrules. czcams.com/video/3PpvyZmPTJQ/video.html
@@efixx Thanks, that's what I use as the insulated ones are too long to fit. However, the edge of the flute is still very thin and fairly sharp so over time, it may cut or nick the wires though the cord restrainer will help movement to a certain extent. Regardless, thanks for sharing. Appreciate your videos.
Good vid, one thing missed is that a lot of times the screw in these terminal blocks quite often cuts a few strands, that can then end up in very undesirable places.
It's a pity ferrule's are not stocked by hobbyist style electronics shops, you have to go to larger electrical suppliers that can be a tad hostile to hobbyists. (they can be trade only, need an account, and only talk big $$$ sales orders)
I got a kit from Ebay (Chinese), crimping tool + big box of assorted ferrules for about £20. Lots of different sellers on there, HTH.
Simply fantastic. How do I determine a wire cross section area, gauge and match that with the ferrule type needed?
The easiest way - download our free colour chart - link in the description.
often it's written on the wire if you get a magnifying glass, otherwise measure the diameter with calipers and use a conversion chart
Use Ferrules for bms
I should probably ask Wago, but do you know whether their 221's or 222's are compatible with ferrules?
Yes they are - check out a previous post in our community tab. A ferrule basically converts a stranded core to a solid one.
Yes you can use them. But you shouldnt with wagos at least.
You will actually get a better connection with stranded wire without a ferrule because of the way wago terminals are holding the wire.
Most wago terminals have actually a higher current rating with stranded wire compared to solid wire.
When shortening rcbo leads i almost only ever use a 4mm grey bootlace ferrule. Now as the size of the neutral for the 6A and 32A differ i should probably be using a blue 2.5mm for the 6A but i find the larger grey gets crimped very tightly although its not a perfectly square crimp. The screw terminations torqued to 2Nm further compress and tighten the ferrule.
The only time id be concerned with getting a compressed slightly distorted ferrule is if it were being used in a square clamp and the square edge was required for contact. Anyone disagree?
Love ferrules, but only concern is whether they need to meet any kind of BS/Harmonized standard?
DIN 46228 is the german standard for them, not only for the colour of the collar, also for the material and sizes. The french standard is NF C 63-023, canadian standard is C22.2 NO. 291-14. Also there's a UL listing (UL 486F) for these ferrules.
The ferrules themself are made of 0.15mm thick copper of high purity (electrolytically refined copper, 99.99%). In most cases they're tinned to prevent corrosion. But there are also silver or gold plated ones available. But in most cases the tin plated are used. The collar is made of polypropylene or PA6.6.
@@Marcel_Germann Thanks. Nice to see a man who knows his ferrules! Was hoping there'd be a British standard for them, but appears we're lacking.
@@Marcel_Germann Nice answer Marcel!
Panel wiring yes but would make testing a pain in the arse when doubling up, say on a ring final?
You would probably be using solid core on a ring final wouldn't you? in that case you wouldn't bother, but you could do each separate and put two in a terminal if needed.
Great vid👍. Splayed not sprayed though, sorry. Thanks for the vid.
🤦♂️
Excellent demo 👌🍻