Problems with an Epoxy Floor Coating (5 Common Problems)
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- čas přidán 17. 08. 2024
- In this video, we will outline five common problems with epoxy coatings. This way, you can better understand the potential issues you may face if you decide to get an epoxy concrete coating. By the end of this video, you will know whether or not an epoxy coating is right for you.
00:00 5 Common Problems with an Epoxy Coating
01:14 Not All Epoxy's Bond Well with Concrete
01:56 Epoxy Does Not Withstand High Temperatures
02:34 Epoxy Can Fade When Exposed to UV Rays
03:04 Epoxy Can Bubble or Blister
03:28 Some Epoxy Coatings Have Long Cure Times
04:01 Is Epoxy the Right Coating for YOU?
Video: "What can I use for concrete resurfacing? 5 common concrete coating types"
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The issues with epoxy, as you mentioned, really only pertain to the water based DIY epoxy kits from the big box hardware stores and local paint stores. The best solution is to use a moisture blocking primer epoxy which wicks into the porous concrete and holds back any moisture that you may have or potentially have in the future. Not only that, it has the strongest bond to the concrete. moisture blocking primer epoxies can withstand 8 -25 pounds of moisture vapor emissions whereas polyaspartics and polyurea's only can withstand 3-5 pounds. Which is why the primer epoxies is better suited for the base coat. The product tech sheets will have this information on it. Step #one is to diamond grind the concrete to create the correct profile in the cement to accept the coating material. Then apply a moisture blocking primer epoxy, if you like, you can add any decorative flakes at this point. For the top coat it is always best to use the polyaspartic or polyurea. Polyaspartic / polyurea has great chemical and abrasion resistance somewhat flexible to a point, and is also UV tolerant.
Thank you so much for the detailed response. A lot of great information in there, and hopefully others in the comments will find it useful.
Thanks for this vid.. I was really sold on using epoxy instead of tiles in my tropical country. You've given me the advice that I need...
Great to hear! Glad we could help. If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask!
This explains why I’ve not noticed epoxy floor coatings here in Australia. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
The reason why it flakes off is because of the prep work. Never use acid etching, it is just a horrible idea, it weakens the top layer of concrete and you are bonding to weakened concrete. Either grind it and/or bead blast it. You need clean white concrete, not half assed grinding.
The reasoning behind hot tires peeling up epoxy, is because the material is horrible. Use industrial grade epoxy primers. Don't use any kits from the big box stores, it is a massive difference. The stuff we pay for is roughly 65$ a gallon for material, and at minimum 4 coatings. Only time I ever see peeling up from heat, is if there is a kitchen with a fryer, obviously temps are extremely high when they clean fryers and get hot grease on the floor.
And you are correct on UV/sunlight. Don't do it with A ton of sun light. If you have to there is polyaspartics that are UV resistant. And also some polyurethanes that you can put in there to help against UV rays as well.
Biggest key factor is please don't do this as a DIY. It's easy to mess up, and just hire a professional. There's many different epoxy options from metallic floors, flakes, decorative trowel down, and smooth solid colors (thin mill in our world). Colors are limitless, and they're easy to clean.
The cure time isn't as bad as you make is seem, usually after the project is done, it's about 24 cure time to walk on it, and 48 for heavier traffic. Usually the polyurethane does take almost a week to fully cure out, but it won't hurt to be on it earlier.
Thank you so much for sharing all of that information, I will keep it in mind for future Epoxy conversations!!
We agree, no matter what type of coating you go with hiring a professional is the best way to ensure the best quality installation, so your concrete coating will last.
EXCELLENT VIDEO...
Question: Can you do an Epoxy Flooring over Tile... like the 50s black and white tile... Linoleum?
Or Painted with Latex over Linoleum? (two different places)...
Thank you Judi for checking out the channel!
To properly install a concrete coating of any kind, the concrete surface should be grinded down to ensure proper adhesion of the product.
Because of that, any tile should be removed so the installer has access to grind the concrete beneath it.
Painted concrete however, should be able to just be grinded down without having to do any extra labor.
If you do find an installer who will apply a coating without grinding, be sure to ask them about their warranty just to make sure you are covered in case you have any issues with the product.
Here is a video we have on "Concrete Surfaces That Can NOT Be Coated" that has more information for you.
czcams.com/video/Gnnvf4yUlQs/video.html
I do hope this helps and good luck with your project! If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask!
Take care
@@TheHomeSolutionsChannel
Thank you so much for explaining all of this... WOW... Excellent...
So glad I asked...
@@judichristopher4604 My Pleasure!
What should I use to add grip over existing epoxy floor.
You can use Anti-slip additives like shark grip, aluminum oxide additive, silica sand, anti-slip grit, sparkle tuff, etc. But it would have to be a new top coat added on top of your floor. The other option would be if you have one specific spot that is a hazard, they do have rubber mats you can purchase to protect the size of the space that is a hazard. That option isn't ideal, but could be an answer to a very specific problem.
If you reach back out to the installer, they should be able to let you know what product they used and can suggest the best refresher top coat with additives to help prevent slipping.
Thanks for stopping by and checking out this video. If you have any questions don't hesitate to leave them down below. We'd LOOOOVE to hear from you!
I have a quest for you. This spring I am building a brand new wood shop with a new concrete floor. I am unsure if I st.l need to grind and acid etch. I am also unsure how the moisture in a new pour will affect the adhesion of the epoxy.
Any advice our tips would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
Informative video! How to make sure that epoxy coating is not slippery when wet? Any suggestions?
Now when you are dealing with wet surfaces, the chance of a slippery surface is always there. For a better understanding, it would be best to talk to the installer to learn about the product that is going to be installed on your concrete and ask about the traction when the surface is wet. For example, the polyurea we install does a little grit to it to help with traction control. In no ways does it make the surface slip resistant, especially when wet, but it can give you the best idea of how to handle the surface when it is wet.
Hope this helps. If you have any other questions let us know.
@@TheHomeSolutionsChannel thank you!
@@pnamm6501 Our pleasure!
Once poly aspartics coating dries off and installation is completed. After couple of days if the floor is washed with water how long should it take to dry?
I had my new epoxy floor done about ten days ago and noticed a five foot strip of the floor where it’s still tacky. Would I have to redo the entire floor or can I have my contractor spot-treat it?
Thank you for checking out the video!
Tacky spots on an Epoxy Floor can be caused by improperly mixed liquids or an area where the liquids were laid on thicker increasing the dry time. Since it's just one strip I would imagine that the mixture was rolled on thicker there, which would be why it was still tacky.
After ten days it should be pretty set, but it really depends on how much liquid was placed there. An epoxy flooring can take up to a week or more to fully cure, so you are still in the window where it might just need some more time, depending on the moisture level of the area in which it was laid. But can totally understand your concern being ten days removed from your project. (I would want to know what was up as well.)
If you are concerned, it's always best to contact your installer for their opinion. A good company will be able to make sure everything is correct and stand by their work, and if there is a problem that it gets fixed for you.
Depending on the overall cause of the issue, that would answer the question on if the floor or just the spot need to be re-done. Hopefully it just needs a little more time and will be the perfect floor that you wanted in just a few more days!
Hope this helps! Thank you again for the comment.
@@TheHomeSolutionsChannel thank you!
@@Cinema12341 Our Pleasure!
Me personally i hate epoxy floors and if your plan is too sell the house i wouldnt do epoxy, it chips, you get bubbles, and it can be pretty costly depending on the size if it doesn’t hold not all epoxys stick to concrete some will create a layer on top which thans leads to the cracks but overall epoxy floors crack regardless
Thank you for sharing your perspective on epoxy flooring, and for highlighting some important considerations for those thinking about this option. You're absolutely right that epoxy can present challenges such as chipping, bubbling, and cracking, especially if not applied correctly or if the underlying concrete isn't prepared properly. These are key points for anyone considering this type of flooring, particularly if they plan to sell their home in the future.
Will it adhere to sand wash surface.
I currently have a sand-wash (rough) bathroom and cleaning is a nightmare. Was thinking of using epoxy over the sandwich so it can be easily clean and maintenance light.
To properly coat any concrete surface you should grind down the top layer of the floor to open up the pores so the coating can adhere securely. So that would be the best way to ensure that your coating adhere's the way you want it too.
Thanks for checking out the video!! Let us know if you have any other questions.
I have a wood stove in my basement what do you thing about that being there will it create issues
Epoxy can have issues standing up to high heat. So depending on how hot it got in the basement it could be an issue. The vicinity around the stove might need to be prepared with a different surface that is more durable to higher temperatures so you won't have any issues.
If water gets on the floor in an office setting does it become slippery?
Great question! Water on an Epoxy floor could make the area slippery. Nothing is completely slip resistant, but there are additives that can be added to the flooring that can give you a little more grip to try and combat that. Ask your installer for their suggestions on the slip resistance of the product they sell.
Thanks for checking out the channel!!
The problem I've run into is, hte epoxy doesn't stay spread out, it puddles up much thicker than it was spread out, almost like dough. It cured perfect in 30 hrs, but it's all stippled and thicker bumps, where it was once totally flat???
Yeah that sounds a little off. The first thing that comes to mind would be the epoxy mixture itself. If the chemicals weren't mixed to the proper proportions then that could lead to issues with consistency of the final product. If it persists or bothers you, you might want to reach out to your contractor and see what warranties they offer for their work and the product. If you have any other questions, don't hesitate to let us know. We'd be happy to help anyway that we can.
@@TheHomeSolutionsChannel Ty. It's a DIY. First crack at it. I did 2 at the same time, and neither are straight forward. But actually, I think I figured it out. It's basically what you were thinking, but I first objected to that, cz I was diligent with measuring and mixing, butIdk if it was you or someone else, mentioned a very common mistake is the scraping of the cups, and at the end, many people are trying to get every drop they can and end up drizzling the poorly mixed epoxy on the piece, and that's exactly what I did, lol. But I wouldn't have needed a bit more, had I done the first pass better. I've also learned a bit about the wood. My piece was water based color stain, which I had hand sanded to grit in the high thousands, it was almost like polished stone, so I couldn't prime it either....
I guess the main takeaway is that I didn't realize, you needed to really rub the epoxy into the wood and make it take to every spot. That's why the dough effect, it just couldn't grab the wood.
And the question is, - is there a transparent primer that won't compromise my stain jobs??
@@blackopal3138 Great job on taking on a DIY project! It sounds like you've learned a lot from your experience with the epoxy and wood. In regards to your question about a transparent primer that won't compromise your stain jobs, I would recommend considering a product called "wood conditioner" or "pre-stain conditioner." These are typically transparent and designed to be applied before staining to help ensure an even absorption of the stain, especially on dense or polished surfaces like yours. They can help reduce blotchiness and promote better stain penetration while preserving the natural look of the wood. It's always a good idea to test the product on a small, inconspicuous area first to ensure compatibility with your specific stain and wood type. Best of luck with your future projects!
@@blackopal3138 Some popular options include Zinsser Bulls Eye Clear Shellac, Kilz Original Multi-Surface Stain Blocking Primer, and Benjamin Moore Fresh Start Multi-Purpose Latex Primer. It's always recommended to consult with your local paint or hardware store professionals, as they can provide you with specific product recommendations based on your project requirements and the available options in your area.
@@TheHomeSolutionsChannel My apologies, I guess I owed you a thank you. I do appreciate the correspondence a lot. I'm familiar with some of these products, as wood is not new to me. I just felt I hit a wall, and didn't know how to proceed with the epoxy.
I think it was a combo of a few things. I'm actually still not positive, because I can't be sure my mixing was good enough, which I believe it wasn't now, lol, but I don't think it was the wood, because you should be able to coat nonpourous products anyway, (I think). After watching a few more videos, I realize that every job seems to need what you guys call 'chopping', but also, after I got it to lay down, I just let it flow over the sides, so I could do the bottom, but I guess I need to dam that for a couple hours? first, then remove the dam.
I think also, the epoxy has a minimum thickness to which it will level, so it/s either that thickness or paint coat, I guess? Had I just painted it, I think I'd be fine, I tried to level a layer out to be thick paint, I think that may have beeen my mistake,...lol
Now I'm talking myself into unsurety again. Idk. I've sanded them both flat, and plan to coat again....
tx again. peace
change speed to 1.75 .. show talker
Thank you for checking out the video!!
✌
Thank you for checking out the video!
Hot tires? 😂 are they thinking people drive Top Fuel Dragsters into their garage? My car’s tires never get to the point to be considered HOT
Love it!! 😂
You never know, we've installed coatings in all kinds of places, people do a lot of crazy stuff in their garage haha.
May be u are in colder regions. They are generally hot especially in hot regions. Hot ≠ red hot
@@MangSeries Agreed, here in San Antonio everything is hot....always haha
Kind of a lame video, kind of seems like a back door ad for polyurea. All the "some epoxies" disclaimers. Of course there is some truth to the video but a proper install with diamond abrasion and quality epoxy is a no brainer, Epoxy, of course, is a problematic coating is a problem outdoors. UV is an enemy of any epoxy. So outdoors is no good unless properly coated with a UV coating every so many years. I would argue almost nothing lasts in the sun, As for the heat from hot tires, not really a problem but, usually epoxy is final coated with a two part Urethane that is really, really tough when allowed to cure. Wait the days for the epoxy floor to cure!
Thank you for sharing your thoughts! We appreciate your insights and understand your perspective. Our goal with this video was to highlight common issues that can arise with epoxy floor coatings, especially when not installed or maintained properly.
You are absolutely right that a proper installation with diamond abrasion and quality epoxy can yield excellent results. Additionally, the use of a UV coating for outdoor applications and a final coat of two-part urethane can significantly enhance the durability and longevity of an epoxy floor.
Our mention of polyurea was intended to provide viewers with an alternative option that addresses some of the specific issues associated with epoxy. However, we agree that both materials have their pros and cons, and the best choice often depends on the specific use case and installation process.
Thank you for contributing to the discussion and providing valuable information for our viewers!
Everybody knows the the problems. To coat the concrete with epoxy is to avoid water damage. Nothing can coat a high traffic area regardless of what kind of material used. Dump explaination.
Thank you for checking out the video!!
LOL
It’s crap.
Never again.
Sorry to hear epoxy flooring didn't live up to expectations for your home. It can definitely have its quirks. If you're open to exploring other options or have specific questions, we'd be happy to help you out.