A couple tips since I just had to deal with this. You might be able to tighten the valve with a flat head screwdriver without taking the solenoid part off at all. It's a little tricky to get a lot of force though. You also don't have to take the hose off that is clamped to it. I was able to easily pop the solenoid off by pushing the tabs on the top with the socket of a 1/4" impact driver bit holder. When putting the magnet rod back in, make sure you put the end with the rubber piece going towards the valve. The metal end goes towards the spring.
Hey, man. I was able to fix mine thanks to your video. I can't believe Samsung's quality control was this bad; my washer is a little over a year and a half old. Thank you for the upload and for helping a lot of people!
@@rehanmunshi85 it just twisted off. I didn't have to force it off or anything. It's been awhile, but I'm pretty sure this is the case.... And of course, the washer is leaking from the front bottom now.
Thanks man - This fixed the problem for me! After weeks of pulling the washer out, opening it up, drying up a few drops of water under the float switch, not finding the source of the leak and then having to do it all over again. For future readers, I didn’t have to disassemble the whole inlet valve for this fix. Just disconnect the wires from the solenoid, put a flat head screw driver between the metal housing and the white plastic and pop that piece off. You can then tighten the valve/rod and put the solenoid back on the rod.
You are the man! I knew I had an issue with the dishwasher not fully draining but watching this video before opening the dishwasher up saved me an enormous amount of time.
Thanks man! This removed the normal light error and the dishwasher ran just fine after I used your fix. Notes for anyone doing it as well: For the white post piece and the parts that go in the solenoid assembly, when you go to reassemble it all, use this order. the black rubber grommet should fit over the lip of the white plastic round piece, and put into the cavity. Take your spring put it in the post, then the bare metal side of the rod goes into the post so the black end should face into the housing cavity where the post screws in. Like someone else said below you can use a flathead screwdriver to tighten the post piece by sticking it in one of the many slots around its border and tightening clockwise. If you check the threading you can start the thread on the left side if you have your washer flipped in the same orientation as Cory.
@@EpitomeofALady22 do you mean the silver bracket piece that is fitted around the orange piece? I'm not sure unfortunately. I think that's not supposed to be disassembled. If someone else knows please reply below. It's been a while since I did this repair. So im probably not the best to ask right now. Good luck.
Thank you very much for this vid..I pulled out the dishwashed from the cabinet, kept it connected, ran it thru a cycle, shined a flash light at the fill valve and saw it leaking...took it apart..lubed the rubber washer with petroleum jelly, put a drop of super glue on the threads to keep it from happening again. tightened it gingerly till it bottomed out...PROBLEM SOLVED
Saved me a bunch of money. I waited a week to make sure it wouldn't start leaking again but it's working as normal. My thinking is the plastic solenoid gets loose over time due to vibration and leaks thus tripping the float, not that it came loose from factory. It may shake loose in a few years and leak again. We'll see. I'm just happy it's working without spending any money! Thank you!!!
Cory thanks man!!! It took me several searches, I'm so thankful for finding this. I had scheduled a repair tech to come out to the house; $200 minimum for the service call +$100 per hour for troubleshooting and the part is like $90+ list price. Once I found the video, I cancelled the service call!
I did this and so far so good. Thanks for your help. Side note: if you are an amateur like me and you do not put back the spring your water to your dishwasher will just keep running even if the breaker is off. You need to make sure that little spring is in their or the valve will not turn off.
Merci pour cette vidéo qui a sauvé mon 1er janvier 2022. Je pensais commencer l'année très très mal, mais ta vidéo m'a permis de trouver la raison du problème très vite. J'ajouterai qu'il faut rajouter du ruban de téflon autour du pas de vis sur la partie blanche de la valve. Cela ne peut qu'aider. Et effectivement, tout comme toi, la mienne était loin d'être assez serrée. Un grand merci!
I can’t thank you enough. I have been searching the internet for information about this for months. I did what you said and tightened the shit out of it and it works like a dishwasher that doesn’t beep.
Thanks for this video. My problem was not the solenoid but the main motor to pump connection. Someone had "fixed "it before and screwed up the o ring. Straightened it out . Problem solved
Got the same problem I've literally been manually just drying off the pan and foam part for months now it's gotten to the point that after 1 load I need to take it apart again. I'm going to try this and hopefully solve it
I don’t know what the deal was because I didn’t find any evidence of a leak in the pan. The styrofoam was dry and clean, no signs of mineral deposits from evaporated water and no signs of water under the dishwasher. But just taking apart the float and putting it back together seems to have fixed the issue for me for now, and I know where to look next time. Thanks for sharing!!
I hope this does it, I’ve been draining it every day. I hate to continue using it this way. I’ve isolated the problem and I keep wiping it , however your 100% right!!! Why does it continues to happen. So I’m gonna try and take care of this and write back to you. Which ma luck my brother however but the sounds of the feed back this should do it!!
lol..i PUNCHED mine TWICE and the light went off and has been running great ever since .lol.had to bend the panel back a bit but works great so far lol
Same issue, same model. Just dry out the styrofoam switch, clean out the trap, screen, stainless steel strainer, and entire catch hole. Just tested no leaks. Mine was packed with black sludge. Must put too much pressure on the seal. User errors in maintenance on my part.
Not sure if its going to work for me, but I followed ur instructions and noticed that the valve was definitely not tightened at all. As a former Samsung employee, this is such a shame. Probably it was built in cheap OEM in China and just put samsung logo.... Samsung definitely needs to care more for their home appliance quality.
@@coryzeisloft3559 I want to share my result with everyone here. Cory's suggestion definitely worked for me. Its been running fine for a week. I know there are many CZcams videos that suggest to relocate water sensor. DO NOT DO THAT. There is no issue on water sensor. It does leak and you need to fix the actual leak point. You can't hide from the problem by closing ur eyes. I could be the lucky one, but I had exact same situation as Cory.
Couldn’t agree more. My dishwasher is 3 years old and this issue just happened again for the 2nd time. Ive already replaced that solenoid valve once, never noticed it could have possibly been loose but if it’s another failed solenoid valve, there’s clearly a design flaw.
I have some tips for those who struggled with this. To get the solenoid off, I was able to twist it left and right and that seemed to loosen it to the point where I could pull it straight off without a screwdriver to help pry it off. At first I wasn't able to move the plastic threaded piece by hand. What people in the comments are recommending is to use a flathead screwdriver to push on the slots at the base where the threads are. I found that after I turned off the water supply line to the dishwasher, it released the pressure on the plastic piece and I was able to turn it easily. I should have done this from the start, but I turned off the wrong water supply by mistake and didn't realize the supply line for the dishwasher was still on. I put some thread tape on the threads and started twisting it on and then used a screwdriver to get it fully seated by pushing on the slots at the base by the threads.
@@btfan7420 yes, the solenoid has to come off first. At the 2:00 minute mark of this video you will see what it should look like with the solenoid off and the rod removed. You don't really have to remove the rod, that piece just needs to be threaded back into the valve.
Just did all this, and the light went off. But as soon as the water was turned back on, the light began blinking again. So disappointed! Anything further???
I tried that, didn't work. I got a new part all together. It didn't come with a new clamp for the hose though. What size clamp is that? And how do I get the old one off?
So had the same issue with water of course. Not sure where its leaking from but maybe it's same for me as you.. did it ever leak again? And did you happen to find out if you can order that part??
Can you tell me where you found the part? Mine kept snapping in weird and didn't turn correctly. Tried running it and it blew right out and flooded my entire kitchen. I checked the fan, I made sure it was level, I did everything before finding this video. Do you happen to remember if the metal rod had the black rubber piece inside the spring ? Or was it the other way around
Only thing I can think of would be your electrical connections in the front of your unit. I had to unwire mine to pull it out, maybe a wire nut isn't making a good connection 🤔
Great video. This helped me get rid of the “normal” blinking light. Only issue I have is when I removed the solenoid from the valve and unscrewed the white plunger, the little metal rod, washer, and cap fell off. Not sure what side the little metal rod goes into the white plunger. I went ahead and guessed and put the dishwasher back into action. It works great but I did notice that after the wash cycle finishes, I notice water still in the washer. It doesn’t spill out but I’m pretty sure I didn’t have this before. I alleviate this by turning the power on and holding the cancel/drain feature for 3 seconds. Can anyone provide a link for a diagram of the metal rod, washer, cap, and white plunger? Thanks in advance.
@@kchappell65247 Yep... the little metal rod was backwards. I made the adjustment and she started up great. No more water in the washer after cycle completion. Do a youtube search for "The Solenoid Valve Explained" by Selfix UK and jump to 3:12 of the video for an excellent view of the little rod.
A couple tips since I just had to deal with this. You might be able to tighten the valve with a flat head screwdriver without taking the solenoid part off at all. It's a little tricky to get a lot of force though. You also don't have to take the hose off that is clamped to it. I was able to easily pop the solenoid off by pushing the tabs on the top with the socket of a 1/4" impact driver bit holder. When putting the magnet rod back in, make sure you put the end with the rubber piece going towards the valve. The metal end goes towards the spring.
Any way you can show this in a video? Having trouble getting the solinoid part off the plastic without damaging it
Hey, man. I was able to fix mine thanks to your video. I can't believe Samsung's quality control was this bad; my washer is a little over a year and a half old. Thank you for the upload and for helping a lot of people!
How’d you pop off the solinoid without damaging the plastic?
@@rehanmunshi85 it just twisted off. I didn't have to force it off or anything. It's been awhile, but I'm pretty sure this is the case....
And of course, the washer is leaking from the front bottom now.
Thanks man - This fixed the problem for me! After weeks of pulling the washer out, opening it up, drying up a few drops of water under the float switch, not finding the source of the leak and then having to do it all over again. For future readers, I didn’t have to disassemble the whole inlet valve for this fix. Just disconnect the wires from the solenoid, put a flat head screw driver between the metal housing and the white plastic and pop that piece off. You can then tighten the valve/rod and put the solenoid back on the rod.
Trying. Guess I'm not strong enough and he doesn't show how he got it off in the video. 😭
You are the man! I knew I had an issue with the dishwasher not fully draining but watching this video before opening the dishwasher up saved me an enormous amount of time.
Thanks man! This removed the normal light error and the dishwasher ran just fine after I used your fix.
Notes for anyone doing it as well: For the white post piece and the parts that go in the solenoid assembly, when you go to reassemble it all, use this order. the black rubber grommet should fit over the lip of the white plastic round piece, and put into the cavity. Take your spring put it in the post, then the bare metal side of the rod goes into the post so the black end should face into the housing cavity where the post screws in. Like someone else said below you can use a flathead screwdriver to tighten the post piece by sticking it in one of the many slots around its border and tightening clockwise. If you check the threading you can start the thread on the left side if you have your washer flipped in the same orientation as Cory.
@@EpitomeofALady22 do you mean the silver bracket piece that is fitted around the orange piece? I'm not sure unfortunately. I think that's not supposed to be disassembled. If someone else knows please reply below. It's been a while since I did this repair. So im probably not the best to ask right now. Good luck.
Thank you very much for this vid..I pulled out the dishwashed from the cabinet, kept it connected, ran it thru a cycle, shined a flash light at the fill valve and saw it leaking...took it apart..lubed the rubber washer with petroleum jelly, put a drop of super glue on the threads to keep it from happening again. tightened it gingerly till it bottomed out...PROBLEM SOLVED
Saved me a bunch of money. I waited a week to make sure it wouldn't start leaking again but it's working as normal. My thinking is the plastic solenoid gets loose over time due to vibration and leaks thus tripping the float, not that it came loose from factory. It may shake loose in a few years and leak again. We'll see. I'm just happy it's working without spending any money! Thank you!!!
Cory thanks man!!! It took me several searches, I'm so thankful for finding this. I had scheduled a repair tech to come out to the house; $200 minimum for the service call +$100 per hour for troubleshooting and the part is like $90+ list price. Once I found the video, I cancelled the service call!
Great to hear, glad I was able to help so many!
You’re a lifesaver, man. Had the same problem, and this did the trick.
I did this and so far so good. Thanks for your help.
Side note: if you are an amateur like me and you do not put back the spring your water to your dishwasher will just keep running even if the breaker is off. You need to make sure that little spring is in their or the valve will not turn off.
Found your video before I started. Fixed it in under 30mins. Thank you so much.
Glad I could help
Merci pour cette vidéo qui a sauvé mon 1er janvier 2022. Je pensais commencer l'année très très mal, mais ta vidéo m'a permis de trouver la raison du problème très vite. J'ajouterai qu'il faut rajouter du ruban de téflon autour du pas de vis sur la partie blanche de la valve. Cela ne peut qu'aider. Et effectivement, tout comme toi, la mienne était loin d'être assez serrée.
Un grand merci!
You are a lifesaver! Saved us at least $600 on a new dishwasher!
Had the same problem, your solution fixed my dishwasher, thanks for posting!
I can’t thank you enough. I have been searching the internet for information about this for months.
I did what you said and tightened the shit out of it and it works like a dishwasher that doesn’t beep.
Same bloody problem! Samsung customer service sucks and so does the products they make. You on the other hand are a life saver. Thank you my good man!
Great job, Pinpointing the source of water leak which activate the floating switch. Even Samsung manual does not say that.
Thanks for this video. My problem was not the solenoid but the main motor to pump connection. Someone had "fixed "it before and screwed up the o ring. Straightened it out
. Problem solved
Thank you ! After multiple attempts this actually fixed mine. Cheers !
Got the same problem I've literally been manually just drying off the pan and foam part for months now it's gotten to the point that after 1 load I need to take it apart again. I'm going to try this and hopefully solve it
Thank you. So many people talk to much...straight to the point and funny too. Just fixed ours
It worked! Thanks for taking the time to make the video, greatly appreciated!
I think this is what I needed.
We had he dishwasher for 20 years with no problem! Has this Samsung for less than a year!Torn up!!
Buy GE
yeah Samsung is awful with appliances, same goes for a samsung fridge I have, so many issues. Ugh!
100% fixed it! That worked! Thanks alot man you're a godsend
Fixed my problem. Thanks so much this video was super helpful.
fantastic work sir, thank you. Solved my problem 100%.
Fixed mine! Thanks brother!
Thanks for the video! I will try it this weekend and let you know how it goes.
Thank you I just finished doing all of it a is working I will keep and updated in like 2 or more days
Saved me a lot of $$$$. Used a little RTV on the threads.
I don’t know what the deal was because I didn’t find any evidence of a leak in the pan. The styrofoam was dry and clean, no signs of mineral deposits from evaporated water and no signs of water under the dishwasher. But just taking apart the float and putting it back together seems to have fixed the issue for me for now, and I know where to look next time. Thanks for sharing!!
Thank you, saved the day!
I hope this does it, I’ve been draining it every day. I hate to continue using it this way. I’ve isolated the problem and I keep wiping it , however your 100% right!!!
Why does it continues to happen. So I’m gonna try and take care of this and write back to you. Which ma luck my brother however but the sounds of the feed back this should do it!!
Another reason for the light can be TILT. If the washer is titled slightly backward or forward. Undo the screws under the counter and test it out.
So far so good!
This worked. The black tip of the rod goes down towards the rubber seal. I had to use 2 screwdrivers to get it on tight enough
Thank you so much, we did it, works like a charm !
lol..i PUNCHED mine TWICE and the light went off and has been running great ever since .lol.had to bend the panel back a bit but works great so far lol
This fixed my dishwasher. Thanks for taking the time to help out. Saved me a lot of $.
Same issue, same model. Just dry out the styrofoam switch, clean out the trap, screen, stainless steel strainer, and entire catch hole. Just tested no leaks. Mine was packed with black sludge. Must put too much pressure on the seal. User errors in maintenance on my part.
Does anyone know how to take the part apart? I’ve tried but I’m afraid it I might break it
Thanks king
Not sure if its going to work for me, but I followed ur instructions and noticed that the valve was definitely not tightened at all. As a former Samsung employee, this is such a shame. Probably it was built in cheap OEM in China and just put samsung logo.... Samsung definitely needs to care more for their home appliance quality.
Good luck!
@@coryzeisloft3559 I want to share my result with everyone here. Cory's suggestion definitely worked for me. Its been running fine for a week.
I know there are many CZcams videos that suggest to relocate water sensor. DO NOT DO THAT. There is no issue on water sensor. It does leak and you need to fix the actual leak point. You can't hide from the problem by closing ur eyes. I could be the lucky one, but I had exact same situation as Cory.
Wow! 22k views?? Thats incredible! Even if only half of those viewers had their issue resolved.
Samsung should pay attention. If 22k people are looking for a solution to a single problem, they obviously have a quality issue that needs resolving.
Couldn’t agree more. My dishwasher is 3 years old and this issue just happened again for the 2nd time. Ive already replaced that solenoid valve once, never noticed it could have possibly been loose but if it’s another failed solenoid valve, there’s clearly a design flaw.
I have some tips for those who struggled with this. To get the solenoid off, I was able to twist it left and right and that seemed to loosen it to the point where I could pull it straight off without a screwdriver to help pry it off. At first I wasn't able to move the plastic threaded piece by hand. What people in the comments are recommending is to use a flathead screwdriver to push on the slots at the base where the threads are. I found that after I turned off the water supply line to the dishwasher, it released the pressure on the plastic piece and I was able to turn it easily. I should have done this from the start, but I turned off the wrong water supply by mistake and didn't realize the supply line for the dishwasher was still on. I put some thread tape on the threads and started twisting it on and then used a screwdriver to get it fully seated by pushing on the slots at the base by the threads.
Do you have take the solenoid off in order to tighten the threaded piece?
@@btfan7420 yes, the solenoid has to come off first. At the 2:00 minute mark of this video you will see what it should look like with the solenoid off and the rod removed. You don't really have to remove the rod, that piece just needs to be threaded back into the valve.
Worked thanks buddy
interestingly my solenoid was upside down compared to yours... don't know if it makes a difference though?
BTW it’s working THANK YOU!!!!
Just did all this, and the light went off. But as soon as the water was turned back on, the light began blinking again. So disappointed! Anything further???
I tried that, didn't work. I got a new part all together. It didn't come with a new clamp for the hose though. What size clamp is that? And how do I get the old one off?
Thank you!
Can’t tell from the video where the water sensor is located?
It’s a piece of foam, which will float, in turn contacting a switch telling the machine there is water.
First cycle running now after your fix, will let you know how it goes, thank you!
so far so good!
Still working, thank you!
So did your fix work ? Is it still working ?
Haven't had an issue since!
Fixed my neighbors with the same piece.
So had the same issue with water of course. Not sure where its leaking from but maybe it's same for me as you.. did it ever leak again? And did you happen to find out if you can order that part??
It has not leaked since. I run the dishwasher daily, family of 6 😄. You can order the whole valve, i dont remember the cost though.
@@coryzeisloft3559 ya found part for like 25 bucks in let water valve. But mine was loose like yours so we will see what happens
Can you tell me where you found the part? Mine kept snapping in weird and didn't turn correctly. Tried running it and it blew right out and flooded my entire kitchen. I checked the fan, I made sure it was level, I did everything before finding this video. Do you happen to remember if the metal rod had the black rubber piece inside the spring ? Or was it the other way around
Did it work for you? I'm having the same issue.
Yes! I've run 3 loads now, no issues. If it ever happens again I will put locktite on the threads.
@@coryzeisloft3559 How were you able to take the shaft out of the power component (yellow piece)
Would you be cool walking me through it via zoom?
It just pulls off. I've it a good yank
How come you didn't make an update video on the flood it caused your house?
Still working correctly with no issues since 👍
He's yummy! I subscribed!
Planned obsolescence comes to mind.
Just tried this, and now it’s not turning on. Any suggestions as to why? Maybe the connections aren’t strong enough on the leak pan?
Only thing I can think of would be your electrical connections in the front of your unit. I had to unwire mine to pull it out, maybe a wire nut isn't making a good connection 🤔
Use pipe tape on the threads there to seal it.
Pipe take is only necessary on metal to metal threaded pip connections.
Great video. This helped me get rid of the “normal” blinking light. Only issue I have is when I removed the solenoid from the valve and unscrewed the white plunger, the little metal rod, washer, and cap fell off. Not sure what side the little metal rod goes into the white plunger. I went ahead and guessed and put the dishwasher back into action. It works great but I did notice that after the wash cycle finishes, I notice water still in the washer. It doesn’t spill out but I’m pretty sure I didn’t have this before. I alleviate this by turning the power on and holding the cancel/drain feature for 3 seconds. Can anyone provide a link for a diagram of the metal rod, washer, cap, and white plunger? Thanks in advance.
Same problem! Did you figure it out?
@@kchappell65247 Yep... the little metal rod was backwards. I made the adjustment and she started up great. No more water in the washer after cycle completion. Do a youtube search for "The Solenoid Valve Explained" by Selfix UK and jump to 3:12 of the video for an excellent view of the little rod.
I can’t take mine off! So frustrating
This video was dead on. I can believe I went right to the solenoid and sure as shit it was a turn lose what’s the deal with that
loose wires, avoid them.
Happened to me, then it did not show up anymore.
Model: DW80N3030US
Replace the inlet water valve. Problem solved. They are all bad.
If they are ALL bad, replacing one bad one with another won’t solve the problem!
Lol Samsung is just terrible at making dishwashers, plain and simple