How to Replace Upper Control Arms 2009-2014 Ford F-150
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- čas přidán 14. 08. 2023
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New Control Arm with Ball Joint from 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/ic/1ASFU00077
This video shows you how to install new upper control arms from TRQ on your 2009-2014 Ford F-150. Control arms are a crucial part of the suspension system of your vehicle. They not only carry the load of the vehicle to the wheel, but they typically also maintain its alignment. Control arms are typically large and strong, so you may be surprised it needs replacing. They contain rubber bushings for smoother rides at the cost of eventual wear, or integrated ball joints that require replacing the entire arm when they wear.
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2009 Ford F-150
2010 Ford F-150
2011 Ford F-150
2012 Ford F-150
2013 Ford F-150
2014 Ford F-150
Tools you will need:
• Pry Bar 1aau.to/oUo/1AXAA00020
• 21mm wrench
• 10mm Socket 1aau.to/obc5/1AXAA00017
• 13mm Socket 1aau.to/obw2/1AXAA00015
• 15mm Deep Socket 1aau.to/obw2/1AXAA00015
• 15mm Socket 1aau.to/obw2/1AXAA00015
• 18mm Socket 1aau.to/oaig/1AXAA00043
• 21mm Socket 1aau.to/oaig/1AXAA00043
• 27mm socket 1aau.to/oY/1AAST00007
• 30mm Socket
• 8mm Socket 1aau.to/obc5/1AXAA00017
• Trim Tool Set 1aau.to/oadk/1AXXX00006
• Locking Pliers 1aau.to/ok3/1AXAA00139
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/oaGx/1AXAA00044
• Bungee Cord
• Copper Anti-Seize
• Gloves 1aau.to/oaaN/1AXSS00048
• Safety Glasses 1aau.to/o3Z/1AXAA00343
• Floor Jack 1aau.to/o6F/1AXAA00068
• Hammer 1aau.to/oUx/1AXAA00091
• Pole Jack
• Rubber Mallet 1aau.to/ogU/1AXAA00413
• Wheel Chocks
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⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While TRQ strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. TRQ is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
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√ Buy The Part at 1A Auto 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
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Just a heads up to save yourself some time you can actually use a pry bar to push the spring up or down and you can usually get that left hand bolt out and the right hand one just slides out between the coils so all you really need to un bolt is the ball joint and the two side bolts easy peasy
DO NOT REMOVE THE STRUT. It’s not necessary for this repair. You only have to remove the sway bar link and top bolts of the strut tower. Once you do that you can push the lower arm down and the upper control arm bolts will clear the strut. Highly recommend having a jack on hand to support everything.
Thank you for these videos! You saved me a lot of money! Watched all the way through once the hit pause and play as I went. Saved me about $700 over taking it to a shop.
I'm about to do this on my truck. Plus I'm installing new shocks and replacing the IWE as well. Thanks for the details! Especially the torque specs.
Great video. Thanks. I will say you can get the bolts out with some force without disconnecting the cv axle or removing the whole strut. To get them back in, I grind down the round washer head built into the bolt from 2 hex sides so its almost even with the 21mm hex head. This gives the bolt more play when reinstalling with only the strut mount bolts out and using a prybar to move the strut with control arm up and down until you find the right positioning. It will not in any way affect the bolt's strength in holding the control arm in place. Those arms are so weak for a truck like this that anything that can break that bolt will destroy the upper balljoint way before anything else. Driver side much easier than passenger doing it this way. You will need to disconnect the sway link on the passenger side to pull this off and pry the undone strut mount with control arm down as much as possible to the point of seeing the intermediate shaft bearing bracket flexing a bit. But its doable, will make you say bad words and in some cases throw a hammer at someone, but will save a ton of disassembly work especially on a salt rusted truck where just removing the cv axle from the 4x4 actuator can damage the seal which as far as I know cannot be bought separate and then requires replacing the actuator and grinding all the rust off the cv axle seal point.
+Insein Membrein Thanks for the feedback! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Amazing video👍
Rusty rusty rusty lol glad I live in NC
I tried using a 48" steel pipe over my 2 foot pry bar to get the lower bolt loose on the shock. My dang pry bar broke. I tried it again with my ratchet and it finally came loose. It was a fight! I used that PB Blaster stuff too. Now I just have to fight that bolt out.
When I try to put the nut on the bushing for the upper control arm it just spins. And advice?
One question, i did this for my truck, and when i measure center wheel to fender one side is a half in lower or higher. And it seems like the top of my tire is pushing out. I made marks at ride height with old control arms and made both exactly to those marks. Made sure new control arms measure the same from bushings to ball joint top center and they do. Am i missing something?
What is the make and model of your pole jack?
Help. I disconnected the brake fluid pipe against the brake caliper. Do I need to change the brake fluid now?
Can u please tell me how much it costs to change this, I don’t want a shop to over charge me. Thanks
2:00 this is not 18mm. It is 21 mm. I picked an 18mm socket and picked out the wrong bolts
My ruck is 4x4 is this truck you're working on 4x4