2004-2019 F150 OPR Front Upper Control Arm & Ball Joint Assembly - Passenger Side Review & Install
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2019
- Shop this OPR Replacement Front Upper Control Arm: amtrucks.at/2yYzaQO
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Regain the lost handling performance and ride quality of your Ford F-150. Replace that bent or damaged factory front upper control arm with a direct fit OPR replacement complete with ball joint to improve directional stability while offering a smooth ride and agile handling.
Manufactured to the original factory specifications from heavy duty steel for extra strength and durability, this OPR Passenger Side Front UCA features a preinstalled ball joint and rubber bushings to improve ride quality and has been completed in a black painted finished for rust and corrosion resistance.
This OPR Passenger Side Front Upper Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly is designed as a direct fit replacement for all 2004 to 2019 F-150s, excluding Raptor models. Sold individually. amtrucks.at/2yYzaQO
Item T526144
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Shop this OPR Replacement Front Upper Control Arm: amtrucks.at/2yYzaQO
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Can y'all explain the vacuum process? Or what that's about?
The vacuum process engages and disengages the IWE (Independent Wheel End). The IWE’s, when engaged, causes the front axles to spin with the wheels. These apparatus’s are vacuum actuated. When there is no vacuum provided by the engine (vehicle off) the IWE’s are engaged. When the engine is running, and creating vacuum, the IWE’s are disengaged for normal 2wd activity. When 4wd is selected a few things happen… vacuum is taken away from the IWE’s causes them to engage with the hub. Also, the transfer case called upon to provide power to the front axles which in turn cause the wheels to spin. That’s about it.
In this case the vacuum process moves the gears of the IWE out of the way to allow the axle to fully seat for the purpose of tightening the axle bolt.
This guy makes it look alot easier than it actually is. Good Video!
Awesome walk through of the replacement control arm and everything was clear
Thanks for watching! -Zach
Beautifully done! Thanks!
Thanks for watching! -Zach
Thanks. This helped so much.
Thanks for watching! -Zach
Talk about a clean truck!
Thanks for watching! -Zach
For those who are just only working on the uppers you don't have to take everything off but you do have to remove disconnect some stuff so that way you can move that hub assembly around so that way you can line it up with the upper
Also must be tightened with the truck resting on the wheels or LCA.
@@alb12345672 correct I just did one on the same day that I posted this cuz I need to remember what size wrenches I needed and all I needed was the 18 and 21 and then a 21 mm socket for the lug nuts at the truck I did it without taking a drive shaft off and without taking the lower ball joint off so all I did was unhooked the upper tie rod end for the steering and the sway bar linkage and then I use the proper to bend it down move the lower control arm down a little bit after I loosened it and I got it out did it and then once I had everything nice and loose it was all adjusted but wasn't tight enough to cause any resistance until I sat on the ground that's when I tightened everything down and when I did it is I just place wood blocks right where the underneath the brake disc or the rotor and lower the weight all the way down on it and then I tightened everything down that way it was as if it was sitting on its Wheels
@@alb12345672 WTH is LCA ?
@@alb12345672 oh lower control arm??
I’m glad someone mentioned this I thought I was going crazy asking why he took everything apart lol.
They look like precision upper control arms with the fitting
Just curious how do you get a thumbs down on this. Really. Thanks keep up the good work.
People are people. 😅 Thanks for watching! We appreciate it! -Zach
Cause they think they're better or can't do it at home 😂
Just did ball joint recently 2012 F150 did not have to pull the vacuum was curious why you did that
do you need to set up the ride height angle before torquing down? i saw videos where they measure from centre of hub. is this necessary?
Would these upper control arms can go on a lifted setup ?
So I’m having strut contact with the upper control arm
Is 04 -14 f150 upper control arms same I have rancho quick lift shock/strut rubs really bad
why do you have to remove the knuckle??? your doing the upper control arm, right?
What’s the torque specs for the bottom nuts for the struts?
Great video, but no mention of whether you need to grease the ball joint or is it done from factory? Thx.
Normally you can feel the grease in the joint. Give it a little squeeze and see how "full" it is. That will help when you have to re grease as well!
Depending on the manufacturer, some are not serviceable
That seems like a lot of work (just did a BDS leveling kit, and that was a pain having to remove the strut assembly). Couldn't you just have used the jack to take the tension off the upper ball joint, remove the nut, lower the jack, and sneak an 18mm wrench inside the strut mount assembly to remove the UCA without having to mess with the lower assembly at all?
You could do that but you would still have to remove the strut assembly to be able to remove the bolts to replace the control arm.
@@scrap_metal_magic yeah when I went to add my UCAs I found that out. Not enough room to slide the stud out on this generation. What a pain! Glad I'm done with that project. Truck looks awesome though :).
To be honest I used my pry bars and got them out (bolts) and in without hiding all this and no. There was no damage to the bolts or upper inner side of the strut mount. Took the three 15mm nuts off the top Mount for wiggle
So do you not have to preload the upper control arm before torquing it down? Like the angle of it?
Yes unless you like torn bushings
And not a drop of thread lock?
how many hours of job it take
Let’s see you do it on a truck that’s used and on the ground for the complete job for those who are not rich to pay over priced technicians / mechanics
Why did you remove so much??? I've done this so many times on my 2011 F150 between replacing the factory ones to installing the 3 inch rough country lift and I've never removed the knuckle you just need to removed the strut you can get away with leaving everything else attached....
This isnt a 2011
It’s because it’s an official install video. They can’t cut corners they have to do it by the book. So they aren’t reliable in case someone messes up.
@homiefellas wether it's 2011 or not the same principles apply I work on a fleet of F-150s from 2004-2023
I replace my upper control arm and now hear clunking noise when driving over bumps or rough road at a slow speed
Same here
Clearly a mevotech uca
was this truck even used in dirt ,mine never looked so clean like this
Look at the hub I have never scene one that rusty unless they live in the snow or near the ocean.
No these guys do the work on brand new vehicles only.
Do you really need to remove the brake caliper?
You can just take all those junk wheels/tires off that truck and send them my way. My 2013 F150 STX will wear them to save the look of your rig!!! Seriously, you all must be able to read minds, because all of your builds are things I've planned to do to my rig. Now, with that in mind, time to take a 2013 F150 and convert it from column shift to floor shift. I highly recommend demonstrating how to do this on my F150 STX 4X4!!!!
These are the same as the precision control arms
I agree. I'm installing precision control arms right now and they are identical.
Ugh you don't need to remove half the shit he did"😂😂 boy now he just screwed the alighnment up ! Dont mess with those lower arm bolts!""🤦🤦wth?"
35 foot pounds on a spindle nut!?!?!?!?
25 is the factory tq spec I believe.
Good video. Ford sucks though.
We sell Chevy and RAM parts too! 😉 -Zach
@@americantruckswonderful!
Can I swap out my 2012 Ford F-150 lower control arms and struts to a 2016 model I can get all the parts new for free and mine are worn out.