2012 Ford Fusion Lower Control Arm
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- čas přidán 16. 07. 2024
- This 2012 Ford Fusion was stubborn. I beat the smack out of it trying to get the lower ball joint to separate. I succeeded with the help of a ball joint separator. Neither tool could have done it on its own. I needed both.
0:00 Intro
0:20 Ball joint creaking noise
0:57 remove panel
1:17 bolt removal
2:30 separating the ball joint
4:24 tool synergy
6:24 installing the new control arm
9:17 torquing down to specs
12:03 final touches - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I have a 10 lb Sledge with a 12-inch handle. Because of its mass you only have to take a small stroke to make the metal sing. Because it's the vibration that causes the separation of the parts. That comes from an auto mechanic who has been working on cars since 1963. And I love physics. Give it a try next time.
Great video
All that hammering to get it loose! This is why I'm soaking mine with PB Blaster all weekend and doing this on Monday!
Thanks for the video. I have tons of success with "Deep Creep" when i need a penetrating oil for auto work. Try that over wd-40.
If I ever need a really potent penetrating oil, I'll mix 50/50 acetone and ATF. The problem is how to store it, and the fact that acetone and plastic doesn't get along very well.
The neighbors are pissed!🤣🤣🤣💀
Great job! 👍
Thanks dude !
Mine only got out with the ball joint bushing, I had to buy a new bushing, the old one was really stuck
Next challenge: Rearward front lower control arms, haven’t seen anyone complete that task with just jacks!
You don’t have to drop the subframe far at all the which ever side your taking off take off just that bracket and use a pry bar while getting the bolt out
@@diegosantos8324 Thanks for the tip! So you didn't even need to lossen the front sub frame bolts up by the radiator or the exhaust hanger?
@@BartSparrow123yes just do one side at a time this avoids locking the steering wheel down and taking off the steering shaft the only downside to this method you won’t be able to torque the bushing down to spec
@@diegosantos8324 I'm not worrying about taking the steering shaft loose, I have done that before and found if you use a grease pen to mark both sides of the shaft before you separate it, you don't even have to worry about keeping the steering wheel locked straight for reassembly. Thanks for the advice. I'm working on this today.
Anyone got the BPM on the mallet strikes? 😂
about 240
@@jtandrews3😂😂😂
Yeah I’m no mechanic but did all the upper control arms, Sway bars, struts, and engine mounts. The lower control arms were a no go, took that straight to the shop before I was left stranded 😂
It's not that bad, $20 for a tool and a $6 can of penetrating oil and you could have saved yourself $600.
He should have used the tool from the beginning.
Is to much 150 foot pounds bro of frame back bolt do 😊
Should have used an air chisel and had it out in like 2 seconds
I don't have an air hammer worthy of that task. I'm sure Eric O's "big nasty" would have taken care of it in no time.
@@jtandrews3 I just used a cheap one from harbor freight and worked fine