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Dodge Dakota Lower Ball Joint Replacement (2001-2004)
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- čas přidán 27. 03. 2020
- Today, we replace the lower ball joints on your 4x4 2001-2004 Dodge Dakota or Durango. Steps should be the same or very similar for 2wd models and '97-'00 models.
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Fun tip for others that don’t have impacts you can drop a screwdriver down between the rotor and lock it agains the caliper bracket
this is by far the most detailed, not full of bullshit, video for this good job !
Haha, thank you!
Great video. Lots of good info/tips. One tip for next time: The CV axle comes out easier if you remove the lower shock bolt & remove the jack to lower the control arm and let it hang. The front stabilizer bar will prevent the lower control arm from going flying. Gives you just enough room to get the CV axle out without much effort or a pry bar.
very thorough and detailed demonstrations. Many thanks for posting this, it helps alot. thanks
Great how-to video. I lost it when I saw the pizza crust!!
Sad part is that wasn’t even staged 😂
great info brotha thanks for sharing!!!
No complaints about the video, my problem however - my ball joint isn’t fixed in with nuts/screws. It is riveted into the control arm. 😢 2002 dodge dakota slt 3.9
Upper or lower? My upper was riveted but not the lower. Is your truck 2wd?
Great detail, thank you 😁👍
Thank you!
how much different is a 1989 dakota ball joint replacement? great video.
Not sure since I never had to do ball joints on that generation of Dakota, but I would guess very similar steps, just probably different part numbers and maybe different fastener sizes. I would think SOMEONE on here would have a video of an older Dakota haha
Excellent! Thank you!
You're welcome! Good luck!
You're very good dude. Thanks
Having the same issue with rented tool where the install piece is too small. Any idea where i can get a short ring like the one you used?
Not besides either renting or buying a new kit. Unless you measure the diameter of ring you need and go to a hardware store and buy a pipe in that diameter. then you could cut however thick of a ring you need off of the pipe. That's about all I can think of off the top of my head
Perfect video
Appreciate it!
Is your truck a 5.9 l I looked in my chipwin's manual and it says the lower ball joints are not replaceable has some kind of lip on the top then bend over on mine haven't been able to press it out yet
Nope this one was a 2002 with the 4.7. I guess I'm not sure if mine were ever done before I got the truck or not but I don't recall any lip on mine.
Great video ! & the pizza crust was hilarious 😂
Honestly no clue if that was from an alignment tech or a squirrel haha
Love how CZcams has literally a video on any problem you have
Not any, but most! Haha
Nice detailed video my man! Was hoping it would be easier haha but doesn’t seem too bad with the right tools
Honestly the hardest parts are getting the cotter pins out, and having the proper adapters for the press
The issue is always having the right tools for the job. A high torque impact, a ball joint press, and a great set of hand tools is pretty much all that’s necessary.
put it in 4x4 will hold to get the axle nut.
My lower ball joint is differentit just has little lip
Is yours 2wd or 4wd?
I cannot find an install cup that fits my 06 lower.
I have a 23 pc kit and checked auto zone and oriellys. Idk what to do
Aside from trying to beg a garage to lend you their or just bringing the whole truck to a shop, you may have to fork out the big money and get a master kit. Typically they are $500+, but this kit that I have is from Matco and it was roughly $100-$200.
Good stuff thanks bro!
Thank you very much
How long will a bad lower ball joint last after it starts clicking?
Not very long. I’ve never personally had one that bad, but I watched an old Crown Vic coming through my trailer park back in the day at like 5 mph and I could hear it clicking as he drove towards me. Damn front wheel fell off 20 seconds later.
Less than an hour ago the lower ball joint broke on my 137,000 mile 03 dakota rt backing down the driveway. It has never clicked or drove funny, it just broke.
Thank you
Will a2005 durrang0 4x4 wheel bearing fit on a 2003 dokato 4 x4
Can’t say for sure but the 05 Durango is a different body style from the 03 Durango which was the same as the 03 Dakota so it wouldn’t surprise me if they are different.
Hi! Thanks for the video. I ran into a problem. I have a 2002 Durango, and the lower ball joint on the passenger side was obviously changed a long time ago and the ball joint housing was hammered down so much that it was misshapen, and I had to shave some metal around the top and sides of the top to get the new ball joint in. Will I need to get a new lower control arm?
Depends how much metal you had to remove. If the new lower ball joint still presses in nice and tight then you’re probably fine, otherwise yes I’d replace the control arm
Good video although the most adds I've ever seen, hope you're getting paid bro. Cheers!
Hah yes sorry, I do make some money which helps fund these things. This video had a lot of them but also it’s a 37 minute video. I try my best to have ads at least 5 minutes apart. A 10-15 min video of mine typically only has 2-3 ads. Trying to find a balance as I see other people that have like 7-8 within 12 minutes which is just insane.
Great video man. What was the symptoms of the lower ball joints being bad?
Front tires were starting to cup I think. Or I heard a clunking.
Hey Tony, Great video! I am doing this right now on a 5.9 2001 4wd Dakota. What size interior diameter ball joint receiver did you use? Thanks!
Honestly I can’t remember which one I used specifically. I just used the closest one I had to the correct one out of my ball joint “master” kit, but it really isn’t a true master kit. So I wasn’t even using the perfect size.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy Thanks for the reply! The closest I had was a 2.25 ID receiver. The whole time it was on the lower flange of the ball joint and I was just squashing the ball joint, not pushing it anywhere! It looks like I need a 2.5. Hopefully that does it. Thanks again!
surely a squirrel is the culprit leaving pizza crust. I found a whole slice once !
That was mighty generous of them 🤣
A good purchase is to buy ball joint forks, if your not going to reuse the ball joint then DO NOT USE THE FORKS, if you do not have the forks the strike on the side of the knuckle with a good sledge hammer a couple of strikes and the stud should shock itself free. On installation I highly recommend the you lube the sides of the ball joint insert with Anti-Sieze lube, this makes it easier to install and it keeps the rust from forming in between the joint an d the A arm.
Good advice, I always forget about using anti-seize on the ball joint.
How many miles from new do the ball joints normally last on them Dakotas? I'm thinkin on buying a nice 02 quad cab RWD with only 80,000 miles or 129000 km in beautiful shape.
Depends how the truck was taken care of and if the joints are able to be greased or not. Factory ball joints usually go bad by 100k. I put 3 sets in this thing in only 50k miles but they were also cheap ball joints and my wheels stuck out a bit which is harder on the joints.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy Ok Thanks. Ya this one is in Vancouver BC area.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy Yours is 4X4 tho right? @ wheel drive may last longer perhaps
@@mickshoot3497 Yeah this one was 4x4. I'm not sure if the 2wd is any better on ball joints or not to be honest.
Lmao the pizza crust 🤣
Can’t make this stuff up lol
Nice tutorial
Thanks!
That rust does not compare to my Dakota in upstate NY, lol.
Sadly this truck went to the scrapyard a couple years back. Can’t have anything nice in the salt belt lol.
Have you ever replaced the rubber bushings on the lower arm, where it connects to the frame? I have not found a video where this happens, only the lower ball joint. Mine are dry rotted. New bushings are shape of a spool of thread, lip on both ends. It's not tapered on one end with a lip on the other like other vehicles. These on the Dodge seem it would be difficult to install. Thanks.
I have not personally replaced them, but I would venture to guess at that point, it may be easier just to replace the whole lower arm if they come with new bushings in them. I think either way you would have to loosen up your torsion key.
I agree with Tony much easier and believe it or not less expensive
They probably just press in and out
@@juliogonzo2718 The stock bushings are glued in. So you have to burn them out. A press will do little to nothing to get them out. You can pick up a torch kit from your local auto parts store for $30 or so. I replaced mine 10+ years ago with polyurethane bushings which came in two halves and pretty easy to install by hand. If yours is like a spool of thread then a ball joint press might do the trick with a liberal amount of silicone grease. Don't use chassis grease, it will degrade the new rubber bushing. Either way, it is a messy & time consuming job. So if your time is valuable, replacing the entire arm is the faster option. But if you like getting dirty and have some free time, replacing the bushings is definitely a fun weekend project.
Hey Tony I got a question for you where did you get your rims and how much thank you
Can’t remember exactly where but I got them online. Black Rock brand, Series 997 Type 8 on their website in 15x8
Alright thanks liked the video 👍
Would you locktite any of those nuts/bolts for the ball joints?
Not exactly necessary, but it wouldn’t hurt!
The cotter pin will prevent the nut from spinning off, so you don't need locktite. I would, however, add some anti-seize to the threads so the castle nuts can be removed easier the next time they need to come off.
Snap ring tool works a lot better than that screwdriver
It certainly does, when you have one 😅
I'm smart enough not to use a Screw driver cause i've destroyed stuff doing that
You need to take better care of vehicle.It's all rusty.You need to Get all that roast off there.Clean it up and paint it or it's gon to keep happening
@@jamesendsley2611 Truck was crushed years ago, buddy. I can’t control how previous owners took care of it for 15 years. I likely take better care of my vehicles than you do.
Not very smart if you think a pick is a screwdriver 😂
Did you run out and buy another pair of side cutters?
Nope haha. Switched to the vise grip.
What kind of rims are these?
Black Rock Series 997 type 8. Basically knock off’s of Cragar Soft 8’s. 15x8
@@TonyTheTruckGuy thank you sir (and thanks for all the Dakota maintenance videos, they’ve really helped me!)
@@dub944 No problem, glad I could help!
What's that small hole for? ....the one sticking out by the right front of the lower ball joint by the hub bearing.... Nothing is in it?
What time mark are you referring to?
Tony The Truck Guy at 37:06. See that small crusty hole that looks like something screws in it?its right in the front dead center
@@angelahighwolf 37:06 is the end of the video haha
@@angelahighwolf Are you talking about the hole in the bottom of the spindle at 29:39? Nothing goes in there, not exactly sure what that’s for. Possibly just to hang the part for paint from factory or make it easier for the assembly machine to grab.
Tony The Truck Guy ok, thanks! I just replaced my tie rod end, cv axle, ball joints, hub bearing and brakes. After I finished both sides, I almost had a heart attack. I thought for sure I forgot something. Thanks a lot for the vid. Replacing my plenum plate is next...yikes.
Some WD40 etc. would’ve helped a lot
You’d think, but there was no saving those cotter pins and I had a press for the ball joints, so there weren’t any real uses left for the wd-40.
The grove on ball joint shaft should face fore and aft.
What groove?
@@TonyTheTruckGuy The groove on the bottom of the stud.
@@harrywehrman5308 Ohhhhh. Yeah I guess I’m unsure what effect that has. These weren’t offset or adjustable ball joints, so I’d imagine it’s just a ball style socket. Always thought the groove was just for a screw driver to hold the stud if the joint is spinning.
Of all places a damn pizza crust 🤣🤣
For real
You always want the wrench snug otherwise you risk stripping it
When did I say not to use the right size wrench? lol
Put it in 4x4 if you have it. I did
That works too so long as the wheels are chalked haha
Ahhhhhhhh 😆 pizza crust ahhhhh 💀
You can’t make this crap up lol
Take the boot off
Lowkey terrible mechanic...
Oh.
Tony The Truck Guy I appreciate your free tutorial
ya allah plz forgive me stop watching this.
Would it be easier, albeit more expensive, to just replace the lower control arm in this case?
Yes and no. That would be a good idea since you would also be getting new lower control arms and bushings, but instead of getting the ball joint out of the control arm, you’d instead have to deal with the torsion bars/keys and the possibly rusty lower control arm bolts. Usually an unloaded tool is required for torsion key/bar removal and install so it really depends on the condition of your lower control arm.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy ugh. My control arm is probably all rusty and jacked up. The mechanic quoted about $300 for the ball joint job. I was doing some research see what it would take to do the job myself to save some money. Between my lack of experience doing this and tools I'd have to get, I might just have them do it.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy thank you so much for the quick reply!
@@spiralnapkin $300 actually isn’t too bad for the labor involved, I wouldn’t blame you.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy hey you've been super helpful. Thanks so much. I subbed.