several year later this video is helping people (like me) on how to tackle this problem. Thanks for a detailed tutorial. That pneumatic hammer is one handy tool. I have one and it has made so many jobs easier to do.
great job explaining what to do, with no fluff or wasted time. Turtle is a great touch.. she reminds us to take our time and do it right the first time.
I am going to replace the ball joints on my uncles 99 Dakota this weekend. I have never done ball joints before, so I can only say thanks so very much for this video. I think we will have him back and running before the weekend is over. Great video!
Thanks for the video *Don't forget that for those original joints without grease fittings, you can buy a cheap grease seek needle accessory for your grease gun. This allows you to pierce the rubber boot and inject grease, so they don't wear out in the first place. You only have to add grease once a year*
2002 Dakota...Great video, I changed out upper, lower and tie rod end two weeks ago. Your video gave me the confidence that I could get it done. Now I have to change out the rack and pinion.
Thanks for the video. I actually had to use this video for reference on my 2000 dodge ram rwd. The set up is pretty much the same, and I couldn't find any step by step videos for it. You guys really helped me out tremendously. You should add 2000-2001 dodge ram rwd to the title for people like myself who can't find a good guide. Most of the ram videos are for 4X4's and the set up is not the same. Also the front wheel hub assembly is the same as a dakota. Thanks again guys, great job.
I work on 2003 Chevrolet Cavalier. After I removed the tops of the rivets (the hemispheres were on the bottom, the author has them in his car on the top, so I cut the opposite sides) with the Chicago Electric Oscillating tool (good blades for metal), I made pilot holes, drilled a little bit w/ 1/4" bit, and started to knock the rivets w/punch and a 2.5-4 lbs hammer in the manner shown in this film. The rivets didn't move at all, just on one of them there started to show the border of the circumference if the rivet body. In one film the author pulled the rivets, cut from one side already w/ bearing pulling tool. I'm planning to do that tomorrow. The drilling was extremely difficult. I think it depends on the model of the car, how everything goes. I would say on my car you can not knock out those rivets w/hammer. Thank you for the informative film.
Hello and thanks for this Video. Not sure how old it is but I enjoyed watching it and making notes before replacing my upper and lower ball joints and tie rod ends and even the sway bar connector rods which were worn badly as well. It made my task much easier especially when it came to removing the rivets. Thanks again for a great job. WB
Woah, those old ball joints were really bad! ...I'm about to tackle my dakota quad cab, all I need now is an impact-hammer chisel. NICE JOB..! 👌 - Your video is definitely going to help! Thanks
On a 2003 Durango lower ball join, after drilling the hole and taking the top of the rivets off needed to use a 3/4 inch drill bit which is just a dat smaller than the hole. With that bit drilled down about 3/4 of the way then using a punch was finally able to get out the rest of the rivet, they were pretty stuck in there. Fortunately they are made of fairly soft metal, I think aluminum.
Awesome video bro.I wish I lived in your city as every mechanic including the one's at the Dodge dealers are not willing to replace ball joints via removing rivets. They all say they want to replace the entire control arms each time, which to me is a big waste of money. My 2003 2wd 4.7 Dakota Quad cab eats ball joints. I need to replace them about every one to two years.The sway bar links pop out of their ball about yearly too. I bought Centric lower control arms this time as the ball joints are bolted on them & the uppers I used last time were Mevotech with bolt on ball joints too.
Thank you for you help whit the ball joint. Whit you instructions the job is more easy. I have 1997 dodge dakota 3.9 Now i go to replace the ball joints and shocks absorber. Thank you again for you instructions
The problem is that most people doesn't have a car lift and you can't get to the lower ball joint rivets from the bottom. I have a 1997 Dodge Dakota, and I'm replacing pretty much everything on the front end. I was able to score the tops of the rivets and then pound them out, the top wasn't a problem, but the lower, almost impossible. Like I said before, you can't get to the bottom of the rivets to cut them off, and even if you did, you wouldn't be able to pound them out without destroying the lower control arm. So, what do you do? You can do what I done and just buy the lower control arm new, and they come with the ball joint allergy installed. I paid a little over 200 for both the driver and passenger side, and again, they came with the ball joint attached. On my truck, you don't need a spring press, and you don't need a ball joint press. Believe me, it's much easier to remove two bolts that hold the lower control arm in place rather than trying to cut the rivets off and then attempting to pound them out, which is almost impossible and you would probably destroy the lower control arm in trying to remove those rivets. Just thought that you might like to know
Just wanna thank you for the vid. It helped me in my own adventure of changing ball joints. Old ones were totally shot. I bought a cheap air chisel from harbor freight just to do it. Wasn't as clean but it did the job. Thanks a ton
I watched the video through and through, and its an amazing video, BUT after I drill and take the heads of the rivets off I cant get the rivet out. I was there with a punch and a BFH for a couple hours. They wouldnt budge. Used pb blaster too. Alls I know is that when I finally get them all out Im putting grease on the bolts aonthis wont happen again lol. Thanks for the videos theyre really a great learning tool.
i cant get a bit through the rivets. ive tried everything i know to try including cobalt. what kind of bits do you use or recommend and what two sizes? appreciate any help.
Do you think it's easier to just replace the whole control arm? You don't need to worry about doing the bushings later too. Can't find any videos or write ups on doing that.
Hey, If its ok with you, I'd like to share your video with others. I learned a lot from your video. Im sure by sharing your video with others, it will also give you more recognition.
can u explain how you put the steering knuckle back on...my dakota is a 2003...i am having a devil of a time getting the knuckle high enough to place the upper ball joint in the knuckle..many thanks
Fantastic video and an even better job performed. In a world of bolts and nuts who was this stupid engineer that came up with the brilliant idea of putting rivets in a part that was meant to be replaced at some point. 🙄
Very nice video. I was looking for something that would cover a 2000 Dodge Ram but this was close enough. I was trying to do the job without removing the brake rotor and piston assembly but think I'll now have to do it to get to the rivets easier.
AND, after you've got it all back together, checked your work and no more parts need replacing, a four wheel alignment by a competent shop finishes it off neatly.
jtorres698 it runs the risk of coming apart, the reason we torque to specific values is that value is what the engineers decided was the amount of force needed to secure the nut for that application. Overtightening can cause bolts to snap or for the threads to become weakened; making the part itself weakened.
I must say I have watched a lot of ball joint replacement, and your is the smoothest good job i,m impressed.
several year later this video is helping people (like me) on how to tackle this problem. Thanks for a detailed tutorial. That pneumatic hammer is one handy tool. I have one and it has made so many jobs easier to do.
This was an excellent video. No bs. Step by step instructions. Very professional. Best and easiest video to follow. Thank you!
great job explaining what to do, with no fluff or wasted time. Turtle is a great touch.. she reminds us to take our time and do it right the first time.
Great turtle comment...thanks.
I am going to replace the ball joints on my uncles 99 Dakota this weekend. I have never done ball joints before, so I can only say thanks so very much for this video. I think we will have him back and running before the weekend is over. Great video!
Great job son.. facts without bs.. looking forward to more you
Thanks for the video
*Don't forget that for those original joints without grease fittings, you can buy a cheap grease seek needle accessory for your grease gun. This allows you to pierce the rubber boot and inject grease, so they don't wear out in the first place. You only have to add grease once a year*
You make it look so easy! I'm doing a 2001 dodge ram 3500 this weekend ! The rivets removale helps me a lot !
After doing tons of resarch i find this the best video on you tube and on the net..worked prefect on my 2003 dodge dakota thank you so much..
2002 Dakota...Great video, I changed out upper, lower and tie rod end two weeks ago. Your video gave me the confidence that I could get it done. Now I have to change out the rack and pinion.
Thanks for the video. I actually had to use this video for reference on my 2000 dodge ram rwd. The set up is pretty much the same, and I couldn't find any step by step videos for it. You guys really helped me out tremendously. You should add 2000-2001 dodge ram rwd to the title for people like myself who can't find a good guide. Most of the ram videos are for 4X4's and the set up is not the same. Also the front wheel hub assembly is the same as a dakota. Thanks again guys, great job.
Ohhhhhh that explains why the video
I watched for my 2wd silverado didn’t have these stupid riveted ball joints...
Mine is a 2001 Ram and this will help immensely.
I work on 2003 Chevrolet Cavalier. After I removed the tops of the rivets (the hemispheres were on the bottom, the author has them in his car on the top, so I cut the opposite sides) with the Chicago Electric Oscillating tool (good blades for metal), I made pilot holes, drilled a little bit w/ 1/4" bit, and started to knock the rivets w/punch and a 2.5-4 lbs hammer in the manner shown in this film. The rivets didn't move at all, just on one of them there started to show the border of the circumference if the rivet body. In one film the author pulled the rivets, cut from one side already w/ bearing pulling tool. I'm planning to do that tomorrow. The drilling was extremely difficult. I think it depends on the model of the car, how everything goes. I would say on my car you can not knock out those rivets w/hammer. Thank you for the informative film.
I am just amazed, Thank you, Great job. Very young and very knowledgeable. You taught me something on this one that I didnt know before.
Thank You for this in depth video. It was very helpful for me. I will doing mine soon.
Hello and thanks for this Video. Not sure how old it is but I enjoyed watching it and making notes before replacing my upper and lower ball joints and tie rod ends and even the sway bar connector rods which were worn badly as well. It made my task much easier especially when it came to removing the rivets. Thanks again for a great job. WB
Amazing explanation on everything!!
Outstanding! you actually use a torque wrench! Thanks for a very informative video!
Thanks my man, great video, keep up the good work.
Nice Job! Very meticulous work. Stupid OEM design USING rivets! WHY? Was that Mitch 'Turtle' McConnell? lol
Thank you for this video. It gave me the confidence to do this myself! Have a good day :)
Woah, those old ball joints were really bad! ...I'm about to tackle my dakota quad cab, all I need now is an impact-hammer chisel. NICE JOB..! 👌 - Your video is definitely going to help! Thanks
Great vídeo Friend
absolutely best informative video wow, thank you!!
I drilled the rivets out completely. They are quite soft. A 1/2" drill bit after drilling a properly centred pilot hole left the base metal unscathed.
What kind of bit? Size and material? Also what kind of drill. I’m having the worst time drilling
Super good work and video!
Thanks for your video saved me a lot of time 👍
Excellent job.
Great video! Thanks
On a 2003 Durango lower ball join, after drilling the hole and taking the top of the rivets off needed to use a 3/4 inch drill bit which is just a dat smaller than the hole. With that bit drilled down about 3/4 of the way then using a punch was finally able to get out the rest of the rivet, they were pretty stuck in there. Fortunately they are made of fairly soft metal, I think aluminum.
Great job on the video, very informative and all info is correct, love the tortoise ...fyi, (it's cotter pins)
Excellent Job Sir
Great video.
Great job, and thank you
Just did mines....thanks for the help
Awesome video bro.I wish I lived in your city as every mechanic including the one's at the Dodge dealers are not willing to replace ball joints via removing rivets. They all say they want to replace the entire control arms each time, which to me is a big waste of money. My 2003 2wd 4.7 Dakota Quad cab eats ball joints. I need to replace them about every one to two years.The sway bar links pop out of their ball about yearly too. I bought Centric lower control arms this time as the ball joints are bolted on them & the uppers I used last time were Mevotech with bolt on ball joints too.
Thank you for you help whit the ball joint.
Whit you instructions the job is more easy.
I have 1997 dodge dakota 3.9 Now i go to replace the ball joints and shocks absorber. Thank you again for you instructions
Great vid !
Good job young man
Great video
Good job I like that thanks
Nice Job, you are very good!
The problem is that most people doesn't have a car lift and you can't get to the lower ball joint rivets from the bottom. I have a 1997 Dodge Dakota, and I'm replacing pretty much everything on the front end. I was able to score the tops of the rivets and then pound them out, the top wasn't a problem, but the lower, almost impossible. Like I said before, you can't get to the bottom of the rivets to cut them off, and even if you did, you wouldn't be able to pound them out without destroying the lower control arm.
So, what do you do? You can do what I done and just buy the lower control arm new, and they come with the ball joint allergy installed. I paid a little over 200 for both the driver and passenger side, and again, they came with the ball joint attached. On my truck, you don't need a spring press, and you don't need a ball joint press. Believe me, it's much easier to remove two bolts that hold the lower control arm in place rather than trying to cut the rivets off and then attempting to pound them out, which is almost impossible and you would probably destroy the lower control arm in trying to remove those rivets. Just thought that you might like to know
I wish you would have spoken about replacing the shocks and if there is a need for realignment.
Just wanna thank you for the vid. It helped me in my own adventure of changing ball joints. Old ones were totally shot. I bought a cheap air chisel from harbor freight just to do it. Wasn't as clean but it did the job. Thanks a ton
nice video, if only they came out that easy 😆
What size drill bits ? Pilot hole and the second go around. Well explained video. Can't get much more precise. Thank you.
I watched the video through and through, and its an amazing video, BUT after I drill and take the heads of the rivets off I cant get the rivet out. I was there with a punch and a BFH for a couple hours. They wouldnt budge. Used pb blaster too. Alls I know is that when I finally get them all out Im putting grease on the bolts aonthis wont happen again lol. Thanks for the videos theyre really a great learning tool.
I've seen shop dogs and shop cats,,but never a shop turtle. LOL
i cant get a bit through the rivets. ive tried everything i know to try including cobalt. what kind of bits do you use or recommend and what two sizes? appreciate any help.
Good job. Hope you have stuck with it. Someone taught you well
question im doing a 2wd durango and just got the parts 2day. i got ac Delco balljoints and they do not have grease fittings??? why is this?
Turtle! Thanks bro
How about if you don't have a air chisel what is the best way to remove rivets.
Do you think it's easier to just replace the whole control arm? You don't need to worry about doing the bushings later too. Can't find any videos or write ups on doing that.
Hey, If its ok with you, I'd like to share your video with others. I learned a lot from your video. Im sure by sharing your video with others, it will also give you more recognition.
Sounds good.
can u explain how you put the steering knuckle back on...my dakota is a 2003...i am having a devil of a time getting the knuckle high enough to place the upper ball joint in the knuckle..many thanks
In the video he used a jack
Fantastic video and an even better job performed. In a world of bolts and nuts who was this stupid engineer that came up with the brilliant idea of putting rivets in a part that was meant to be replaced at some point. 🙄
nice work! Do you still have the truck?
Very nice video. I was looking for something that would cover a 2000 Dodge Ram but this was close enough. I was trying to do the job without removing the brake rotor and piston assembly but think I'll now have to do it to get to the rivets easier.
I Have a 2006 Dakota, and it's squeaking bad.but! Just on the driver side..any suggests.
Great video I have a question does the truck need to be aligned after this repair? thanks
it sure does
AND, after you've got it all back together, checked your work and no more parts need replacing, a four wheel alignment by a competent shop finishes it off neatly.
Those rivets haunt my nightmares...
was wondering if you torque the upper ball joint to the knuckle first or the lower ball joint to the knuckle first or does it matter
Great vid just got back from a shop and he want $500 to do this. How many drill bits did you go thru and what type were they?
Lol ^u got scammed
is the process different for the 4wd?
Yes they are press in instead of riveted
if I don't torque the bolts what would happen sir?
jtorres698 it runs the risk of coming apart, the reason we torque to specific values is that value is what the engineers decided was the amount of force needed to secure the nut for that application. Overtightening can cause bolts to snap or for the threads to become weakened; making the part itself weakened.
I just ram em home with an impact gun. Much quicker.
uve never worked in mi. w the rust. did the b joint job no where near that quick. we used a shop w a hoist n air tools.
Great vid, but link to parts didn't work.
where is this kid i need him,,,,, are you in ny.. no one can do this
Bruh, how long did it really take to chisel those stubborn things out? Cmon
This is a great video dont get me wrong but it is not as easy as he makes it look lmao it took me 2 days for one side maybe its just me 🤣
And fyi do not i repeat DO NOT HEAT UP THE RIVETS the ball joint will explodei didn't even know they could did that
So no one is gonna mention the turtle?...ok 13:18
yeah. this method didnt work for me. the rivets wont come out.
Great vid, except it's cotter pin... just an f.y.i.
aand, to make matters worse, I've lost half a bit in a rivet.
13:28 WHY ARE THERE TURTLES IN THIS VID>!>!
riveted? wtf....ford's you gotta press in and dodges are riveted....can't wait to get back to a gm
Many GM ball joints are riveted also.
Those rivets are a spawn of Satan!
don't Wana cheap out fixing a dodge. use only GM oem parts
Great video.