Playing in the Rocks: Grading Parking Area with Compact Tractor and Rear Blade
Vložit
- čas přidán 7. 09. 2017
- Fun time grading a parking area at a rental unit using John Deere 1025R and Ford 781 rear mounted blade.
TTWT website: TractorTimeWithTim.com - Zábava
Great video, content, commentary! Love the gravel driveway work and the spreading of rock!
I get a fair amount of work that comes from people that thought they could spread 10 or more yards of dirt or rock , they usually call me after three wheel barrow loads. People are very grateful at the end of the day for your help. A day on the tractor is a day well spent.
We used to "finish" these projects with a home-made tool, 8' of chainlink fence doubled up, bolted (with a steel strip) at the end to a 8" thick piece of telephone pole. Later replaced the pole with a concrete parking bollard.
That was awesome! I had to rake out a truckload of 3/4" Bluestone with a rake and a shovel.... It was a back breaking job! Never again! The difference between leveling 3/4" and the smaller 3/8" is night and day. Great Job! 😃👍
+ScoutCrafter ugh! You should have called Johnny!
Thank you all for another great video. Tim you did a great job with that blade. Trying to work the hydraulics and not get a washboard affect is tough but you handled it well! I have a Kubota BX24. I have watched a lot of your videos where you use the fel . I must say your tractor has much more lifting power than my BX. I could not begin to lift what your JD does. Again thank you for sharing. Be safe and God bless you and your family!!!!
+Ray Eddy interesting. Hopefully we'll get the chance to compare sometime.
Hi Guys , came across your channel today , just wanted to say thoroughly enjoyed it and it kept me entertained all day. keep them coming.
Welcome, Nick. We’ve got over 350 episodes now, so you should be busy for quite awhile!
Thanks for joining us.
When it comes to shovelling gravel I'm busy that day, a renter never could have done that. An angled blade with a good operator is the best tool for the job
+mcinkyt ....instead of a straight rusty blade with a shmuck! :-)
Great job Tim, it looks good!
+Herm Zinn thanks
Another finishing trick with your blade is to spin it clear around and then set it down and go round and round. We used to do this all the time to smooth a parking lot. It is just about impossible to "smooth" by pulling the blade facing forward. It always wants to gouge or raise up too much.
If you turn the blade around and drag with the back side of it, it'll smooth out better without using the bottom of your bucket. Down at the farm, we've got a driveway over 1/2 mile long, and just back-drag (with no down hydro pressure) each side angled toward the middle, then back-drag the middle with a straight blade to distribute the row that you just created. It usually works out really well, except I had to actually forward-blade grade it yesterday, because the rain that Owen County got last Sunday night made a bunch of 4" deep trails down the driveway (there's around 300ft of elevation difference), and there's been a lot of logging trucks through there in the last year, so not a ton of free gravel on the top right now. This is with a Deere 5320 and a 6ft Woods blade.
Any implement you can get the job done with is the best one! OK, not always, but you got it done, the blade you used seemed to work great to me! Enjoy your videos, keep them coming!
+Sons of Thunder yep, agreed. You don't always need the perfect implement.
That blade worked great. I know a lot of folks swear by box-blades but I think you had much more control this way. Perhaps if you had needed the teeth to break up the compacted gravel a box-blade would have been handy but with the combination of your toothbar and the little blade you can do most anything. As always very informative and highly entertaining. Thanks for sharing.
+Tim KD5VMV yea. Whatever it takes to get the job done. Thanks for the kind words.
Skip all that box blade talk, a land plane would have been the best tool, but, Tim has the skills to use a BB. Looks great. Keep the videos coming Tim.
+David Mays thanks, David!
and the e series vs the r series rear height selection too
Agree
Nice video. My favorites are Johnny with the backhoe.
It works well to spin blade around 180 degrees so you can pull it with the blade basically backwards for the final pass it does a good job of lightly smoothing things out without digging in much
Great comment about the jam nut. I've been raking out our new yard and noticed the right side keeps dropping. Wondered why and realized I had to keep wrenching it back up. Will have to tighten that nut and see if it stops it.
Great video as always!
Thanks. Once in awhile I think of something 'useful' to mention. Usually after I mess something up!
Great vid Tim Smile More God Bless Stay Safe Guys 👍
good job as usual. All are awesome!!!!
Great job, Tim. Your commentary about the box blade was exactly what I was thinking. While you were able to get the job done nicely with the angle blade, I think the box blade would have worked a little faster for you. I have a 1023e with a Frontier 60"box blade I purchased at the same time as the tractor, loader, and a 48" Frontier rotary cutter as a package deal. I was concerned when my dealership recommended the 60" boxblade over the 48" that my little tractor wouldn't be able to pull it with a full with a box full of material. They assured me it would, and I have been pleasantly surprised that my 1023e can pull it fine with as long as I don't have the "teeth" in the lower settings. When I need to use the teeth, I have learned to leave the implement up high enough to not move much material at all with the box. After I have torn up the surface of the dirt or chat with the teeth, I then raise the teeth back up and use the cutting blade alone to smooth it out. You can probably accomplish the same result with your tooth bar on the bucket and rarely use your teeth on the box blade. I also use my box blade teeth in the place of a chisel plow before I go over the garden with my little 12 blade King Kutter disk. I know your tiller is the optimal solution but I decided to spend less money on the disk and use that approach. I get roughly the same effect with this combination as a tiller for a little less money since I already had the box blade. Finally, the last significant benefit of the 60" box blade I will mention is you can spread material very close to a landscape timber, sidewalk, or some other form of barrier because the blade sticks out roughly 6" past the tractor tires on both sides allowing the operator to drive along beside the edge without running over it. If you ever decide to buy a box blade I would recommend a light duty 60" over the 48". I enjoy the videos! Keep it up!
+Kirk Brinkley good comment.
Kirk Brinkley You sir just made me go out and purchase a 60” box blade! Thank you for your wise comment. It is much appreciated!
Good video, that's all I have for now. Have a wonderful weekend.
+John Deno thanks John! Short and sweet!
With all the advice you got I think you did great with what you had. But I have a barn to store more equipment if you run out of room. :)
Yea, if I bought everything everyone says I need, I'd have to sleep in your barn!
Had a similar task and used a York rake,took a little longer but that's all we had and it did a nice job.
+Tom Reed exactly. Use the tools you have. Surprising what you can get done with patience!
Tim, my 2 cents worth, I have both a grader blade and a box blade. They are different implements for different jobs. It is sorta like a rotary cutter and a finish mower. Similar product, but different in so many ways.
For future jobs that blade is adjustable. Setting it at an angle to your pull will change the cut of the blade. It will also push most of the material to exit on one side of the blade reducing the ridge to almost nothing on the other side. This cutting action will help it cut down the hump.
A little different editing
technique there. I liked it! Great job!
Thanks for mentioning that. Christy came up with the idea. I think she did a great job.
Yeah, it was kind of like post game analysis with a coach/player after a big game. Great job Christy, I'm sure the editing process took a little longer but well worth it. God bless
drag an old pallet round and round when you're done and it will knock off the little high spots, makes it really look smooth.
Great video!
What you used worked excellent
+steve smith it was simple, fun project.
I just bought a 1025r with loader. I have a pull type box scraper I bought a few years back. The trouble with a mounted blade is when you go over humps it digs in and the opposite in a hole. Looked nice when you got done
Yes!! Especially with such a short wheelbase Tractor! Really difficult.
A friend of mine had an older style blade for his 8N and we used it on gravel. I wouldn't recommend pushing backwards with it very hard. The pivot and angle adjustment on his broke and the blade folded underneath like tin foil.
Anytime I spread rock, there are 3 implements I use...
1 - Front End Loader to initially move the material from the pile and roughly spread it around.
2 - Box blade to more evenly spread the material and move it from high to low spots.
3 - Landscape rake (rock rake, york rake, whatever you wanna call it) to finish it off and smooth it out. The rake tines allow the rock to pass through where needed to smooth it more evenly than the box blade. It doesn't so much transfer material but smooth it out. You can grab a pile and carry it a short distance but it will eventually just spread it evenly along your path. This works well for dirt also. Think of a garden rake except supersized.
+Jeremy Fortune makes sense!
Spin the blade around after you get it roughed in , then it is easier to smooth it out. Great job!
+Michael Owens thanks!
A box blade works amazing! It traps the gravel into the box and levels everything perfectly. I have a huge driveway which is all gravel and I blade it probable every 3 months.
+CR Mills sounds good. Maybe someday. I have had one on Johnny. Our church has a 5' Land Pride. I tried it out on the driveway there last summer.
I use the blade exactly like yours, then just pull around a empty pallet to smooth out the lines from the edges of the blade passes
Jthumper I use a 6' woods BSS72 and ABI TR3 rake to do driveways. The box scraper I use more in a reverse motion on hard driveways. The rear blade cuts much better than the front blade. As for the TR3. It has a floating leveling blade that can be locked to use as a box scraper. Too many implements that could be used to do this job.
I've found that a box scraper is *and* the edge of your front blade are better for this. Take the teeth off the bucket and angle the bucket to back-drag and level out the gravel. The box scraper is better for distributing the gravel.
Great job! The story of the renters - one working to spread the gravel and the other not - reminded me of the story of “The Three Little Pigs” where one of the three worked hard, building his house out of bricks which the fox could not blow down. Maybe the non-participating renter “out FOXED” the landlord - knowing that the landlord would not leave the gravel piled up and unused. The identity of the real fox will not be known without knowing if a rental increase occurs for the non-participating renter.
+Lod Price ha!
In the UK when operating an Caterpillar 428 180° excavator doing similar work, the 6 in 1 shovel can be used as a dozer/grading blade. When the intial uneven surface is flattened. I would finish off using the shovel in the float position, that is the lever quickly thrust forward to overcome the hydraulics where gravity takes effect causing the shovel to float over the surface by weight alone. Any slight unevenness is eliminated. Followed by a few runs reversing backwards to compact the ground with hydraulic pressure of the shovel even if it means front wheels off the ground and the weight of the machine on the shovel. Different methods for the same result I suppose. :) These machines are made to make manual labour involving a few workers a thing of the past. Nice job well done anyway.
+D0csavage1 thanks, Doc
I used a back blade for years in my drive and it worked fine. I now have a box blade, and it is just easier and quicker. With the box blade you don't have to chase down the spillage of the side of the blade. But the blade is cheaper and works. Like anything in life there are trade offs.
+Pat Conroy yep.
See my dad went with the York rake on our 1025r. I thought a box blade would be best for maintaining the dirt road. I know northern tool has them relatively cheap in different sizes. Only hundreds of dollars. Too bad I don't have a northern tool nearby
I have a Woods blade but haven't used it yet, but for spreading gravel it will work well. A box scraper though is needed to work up and move compacted material. I have a 60" that keeps the long driveway in shape. I also use it to make drainage swales and crown for drainage.
+thnksno box blade is definitely more versatile.
Tractor Time with Tim I don't see why you couldn't get the same shaping effects using a rear blade. Adjusting the lift linkage off level would make a blade cut?
Tim, if you needed to get deep. You can turn the blade backwards and push in reverse to get the mound moved fast. BUT GOING IN REVERSE WITH THE BLADE TURNED AROUND YOU MUST BE CAREFUL NOT TO DIG TOO DEEP. That is where a box scraper is nice. The front bit keeps the rear bit from digging too deep and vice versa.
+Drew6709 makes sense
Good job Tim. A single section of drag harrow or a piece of railroad iron behind the blade on the last pass, would have finished it off nicely where no raking was required. Of course you would have to have a GRAPPLE to pick it up off the trailer. :)
Ha!
I have found that turning the blade backwards is nice for finishing it off and grading it
+Matt Wright sounds good. Same experience as many others have reported.
Every time it rains I have to get mine out and put my driveway back in place I live at the bottom of the hill hoping next year they put something better down in my driveway
You would not have needed the scarifiers on a box blade but the ability to capture and move the rock could have helped alot. In addition pushing backwards with a box blade acts alot like a mini-bulldozer. For the finish extending out your top-link and letting the back edge smooting the rock gives a really nice finish. Also if you did not have the teeth on your bucket you could use it more effectively at least on this project.
+Tab Petree teeth easily removable.
have to get you a box blade for work like that.
just set a few sacks of cement on that 3 point and your set, i put plywood in the A part of the blade and set 2 sacks on it- if you run out of traction just grab a bucket of gravel- this is when you can feel the lack of power when doing long roads in high range, prob not the best on my hydro trans though
I bought a frontier 60 back blade today. Don’t really have a use for it but I may paint it and sell it for more.
good job
Another attachment would be a York rake , you got the job done with what you had and that's what matters.
Hey Tim I don't know if you read the comments anymore, you are right about locking the 3 point arm, but the top one you don't because you need to be able to adjust the top arm as you go. The longer the top arm the more it cuts the shorter the arm for fine tuning.
I still read-em. All of them :-)
You did a great job Tim have you thought about putting weights on the blade where you can add and take off as needed ? take care and God bless ! Curt
+Kioti CS2410 would help in some situations.
Tractor Time with Tim Hey Tim. Great video. Do you have a step x step video showing how to install your rear blade? How do you install it? I’m interested in getting one for snow plowing. How much do they cost, and where did you get yours? Thanks🤙🏼
You needed a landleveler it's like a box blade but it built a little different 👍👍
would have worked great.
Good job
+Pat Roberson thanks!
Is is a mower, is it a tiller, is it a dozer, is it a backhoe, no, it's Johnny the Swiss army tractor. Doesn't have to be fancy, you got the job done and that's what counts.
+Erik L exactly!
5:46 Yes! I've noticed that my turbuckles are vibrating and causing too much sway. I have to get out and adjust them quite a bit.
looks like you did a great jod, what did you charge that guy for a job like that?
Box blade would not been any better. You did a great job with that plow
+J Ren thanks, J
A land grader would have worked as well but those implements DON'T have a closed back for carrying material. With the open back, material rolls over the 2 blade edges and levels using a larger area and skids that allow it stay level on uneven ground.
+Drew6709 yes, land plane would have been great.
Has anyone figured out how to mount a grader blade under the 1025r using the loader mounts?
We're did you get the teeth bar for your bucket? I have a 4310 that would work wonderfully on. And make some bolt on side for your back blade and you will have a little more caring capacity with your blad.
www.heavyhitch.com use coupon code TTWT for a 5% discount! ...thanks for asking.
That's a mean bucket you got there Tim, where'd ya get the bucket teeth. I need some for my 3 buckets. thanks, john
+John Myers www.heavyhitch.com use coupon code TTWT for a 5% discount!
You should look into ABI gravel rascal.
Hey guys i work at tarter farm and ranch idk if you have heard much about them but we make all tsc 3 point hookup attachments i can prob get something worked out with getting it quick hitch cause we make johndeere too we make the quick hitches themselvs to
Hey Paul. Please email me: tim at tractortimewithtim dot com
Thanks for reaching out!
That blade looks to be shaped about perfect for the work you were doing. I've had blades in the past that had a cutting edge that was too aggressive which made doing fine grading difficult. Even adjusting the top link didn't help much. Yours looks like it would be a good snow blade as well. As for running out of space when working near the edges, your blade should turn 180-degrees so you could push backwards.
It really did work pretty well. Especially for being old and rusty.
I adjusted the top link a bit to get it to suit. After that, it worked fine.
Tim, did you consider using the front blade that I saw on one of your earlier videos? It might have helped you get closer to the tree line as you discussed in the video. On the other hand, maybe you felt that it wouldn't be strong enough for the job?
+Eager Subscriber if you are referring to our snow blade, no, the mounting quick attach system is not strong enough to handle dirt/rock work.
Yes I agree, a box blade would've been good to use as well. Thanks for sharing your video. I like your chain hooks on your bucket. What is the center piece on the top middle of your bucket. I can't tell what it is. Love the agressive tooth bar as well
+Rodney Leonard 2 inch receiver hitch. From boltonhooks.com.
Tractor Time with Tim. Boltonhooks.com. copy that. Appreciate it. You're 2"reciever must work purty good then. How bout your tooth bar?
+I Rodney Leonard oh my goodness. You've seen the toothbar! I use it for everything! What an amazing tool!
Tractor Time with Tim. Yeah, that tooth bar is awesome & looks very agressive. Ya might have been able to use it on the gravel hump ya'll was talking bout but back dragging was good to. Might I ask where ya got the tooth bar? God bless ya'll
+Rodney Leonard heavyhitch.com use coupon code TTWT for a 5% discount!
Tim I deliver and spread shell in driveways if you take the teeth off of your bucket and use the bucket you have to back drag you cannot grade going forwards
Did you try turning the rear blade around backwards and pushed with it that way?
yeah, box blade would have been best but the rear blade will get the job (as you have seen) just fine. I just think the box blade would have been a little faster. But again on a small project like this. Its almost not worth the hassle of changing implements.
As always great job great video and God Bless
+2LateIWon/Organized Chaos thanks!
Tim have you ever heard of the ABI TR3 rake for road grading and maintenance. If you have what are your thoughts
Have heard of it and watched the videos.
Have not used one.
I have one. Use it more for landscaping and revitalizing packed gravel lots.
A Gravel Rascal could also be used in this instance. With the 3 point adapter the Gravel Rascal works with sub-compact tractors.
I was thinking box blade when you said it. But then I started thinking about how we could justify a new 2025R with a cab and a grapple from this project. I'll let you know if I come up with something. hehe....On a side note, where's Katriel been lately?
she worked all summer at Purdue (for the USDA). These projects were on weekday evenings during the summer.
Now, she has started back for her sophomore year at Purdue.
If you had angle the blade by one or two holes it would've worked a little bit better, it would cut into the gravel better, then straight dragging .
+Donald Latimer perhaps. Seemed to work 'good enough', so I left it alone.
Tim, have you used a box grader?
A couple of times, yes
A land plane would have been great, but given what you had you did a fantastic job. Unless you have a lot of leveling jobs lined up, I bet the finance dept. will deny the request for a land plane or box blade. 😉
We need a bloopers video!!
+Jonathan Ballard that would be fun. Of course there aren't any. We do and say everything perfectly all of the time ..............uh, well....not really!
Good work with the blade. Do you have a landscape rake?
We do not.
The one thing I really miss on the loader is self leveling. I'm sjusted to payloader that has it.
I agree. ...and it doesn't make any sense to me why it isn't available. Especially given that performing two functions at the same time is difficult with the 1-series.
Finance committee should approve the box blade lol
Poor finance committee has too many proposals to entertain.
You needed the land lever attachment.
Next time you paint your bucket that would be a great video to post for winterizing the tractor. Where did you get the paint?
+Clifford Allison sounds as interesting as watching paint dry. Just joking. I wondered if I should video that, but I did think it a bit boring. I have used Deere paint, or rust oleum.
Nothing beats a good back blade. You could of tried angling it.
A TR3 Rake would have been another implement. With it having capabilities of a landscape rake, box scraper, pulverizer, and land plane. Look up ABI/TR3. But Johnny MAY NOT have enough power to lift and pull one. But they (TR3) are expensive. And it is quick hitch acceptable. You would have to see one work to get a better idea of its abilities. just another idea.
Hydraulic third link is all u need make Johnny 😆😃
I have a question. With tour side jobs you are able to do with the tractor, how many years would it take for Johnny to pay for himself? I know that is sort of a complex question.
+TheJf5432112345 42.
Great job with the back blade Tim!
I have a couple of hundred yards of gravel driveway and I am looking at the various implements I can use to maintain it. What would your thoughts be between a box blade, land plane or landscape rake for this task?
Mick
All 3! :-)
Mick Olson: 1) What size tractor do you have? 2) How bad is your driveway?
I personally suggest a box scraper. You can carry more material to spread & and it can be used to remove the center if you have a high center. Use it in reverse to remove high centers & use that material to spread out. Depends on which brand you buy, implements will be lighter weight and built with thinner steel. A standard duty from Woods (BBS72) (Or LandPride) might be a heavy duty from Behlen Country (Wilco Farms brand) or Tater (I think). As for landscape rake, only if your driveway is already smooth. Land plane from EverythingAttachments.com has a full line of implements that fit sub-compacts & compact tractors. Check them out. If you have money to blow, get a hold of ABI Attachments about a TR3 rake or TR3E depending on tractor size.
Drew6709,
Thanks for the info.
No tractor yet, but I am hoping to remedy that in a couple of months. I am looking at a Kubota 'L' series and trying to balance what I will need vs. what I can afford.
Our driveway is not bad at all. It is fairly flat and no pot holes or washouts. We had it re-graveled last year, but it is in need of some maintenance as the gravel has thinned in some spots. I think a landscape rake would work great on it.
We also have some hunting property that has two of roads on it that need maintaining and I would like to add a couple more road to allow easier access to certain areas. So I am thinking that a box blade would be a wise choice for that task and I could utilize it on the driveway here at the house.
Mick Olson: If you have to "order" a tractor from manufacturer and if you can afford it. Have rear hydraulic remotes installed and a "3rd FUNCTION VALVE" for the loader. Better to have those installed at time of build. Rear remotes will allow you to use implements with hydraulic operations. The 3rd FUNCTION valve will allow you to operate a grapple, 4-in-1 bucket, or other implement with hydraulic cylinders. And get a 4x4! You will thank yourself in winter.
Drew6709,
The 4x4 option was already on my "Must have" list and the dealer here said that they don't even carry the 4x2's at their shop as they don't sell.
At first, a backhoe was not on my list of "Must have's", but my lovely bride convinced me otherwise, as she has a few projects around the hacienda that will require one.
I have spoken to the dealer about a 3rd Function valve, but I don't know the exact cost of that as yet. Again, this is why I am doing research by watching channels like Tim's to figure out what I "Want vs. what I "Need" vs. what I can "Afford".....
I have a 1025r which I really like. I get a lot of work stump grinding but can't seem to get the other type of work you get, spreading gravel removing hedges etc. what method would you recommend for expanding my tractor business?
+Dan Tabler I'm no expert on this Dan. What type of stump grinder do you use?
Tractor Time with Tim
I have a woodland mills stump grinder that works great. Seems like the 1025r was made for this grinder, or maybe the other way around. Less than $2,500 and I paid for it with stump grinding jobs in less than 30 days.
Really would like to expand my tractor business into other things as well
Tractor Time with Tim
Because of the relative low cost of the grinder I regularly under bid the guys who spent 10-20k for a single use machine and still have super great margins
TKS FOR ALL UR VIDEO'S, HOW COME ON UR 3PT HITCH THEY ONLY GIVE ONE ADJ. TURNBUCKEL YES THEY GIVE ONE FOR CENTER TOP, AND RIGHT SIDE THE OTHER IS STRIGHT ROD. IM TRYING TO ADJ. THE SCRAPER FOR A 2X12 PITCH FOR LANDSCAPING. I JUST CAN'T SEEM TO GET THE SCRAPER TO STAY ON THE ANGLE. HELP PLEASE.
+Skip Duld I have a video on this topic. czcams.com/video/cQGG_P10zsA/video.html
when you guys getting the new john dree tractor
Ha! You really think we're getting a new tractor?
Box blade definitely would've worked better for leveling that but interesting seeing another approach
Yep. Using what we have!
"IF" the material had been packed more, shortening the 3rd point can assist in the blade digging more or lengthening will be more shallow of a cut. And if you have the lines from the side , turn the blade around 180 degrees and "float" the blade around the lot to smooth out the lines of gravel. If you really need to dig, leave the blade in the reverse mode and back up to dig harder packed material. Too many ways to do this job. Loader only could have certainly done the job as well,
dos your blade turn around like most do
+David J. Kester yes.
You need a gentleman's farm of about 10 acres. Lots of room for all those necessary attachments.
+Keith Rahn yep!
เป็นแนวคิดที่ดีมากครับ😁👍👍👍
thank you
where did you get the tooth bar ?
Heavyhitch.com use coupon code TTWT for a 5% discount!
Hey Tim have you ever had any problems with your tires on the front bulging
+scott5609 do you mean flattening due to load, or 'blistering' like a lump on the tire? I have lots of issues with flattening them somewhat due to load, but I have never had one blister
ues the tooth bar and backdrag it with the loader
So when is the new 2025R coming?
+Frank Gambatese ha!
Is that a 5 foot blade? I no 2 years late. I just bought that same tractor and am curious.
Yes. 5’. I do not think I would buy a rear blade like this if I had it to do over.
Congratulations on your machine, and welcome to our channel!
Can you use this back blade for snow and can i get one for my x739 john deere?
If you have 3 point hitch, I recommend heavy hitch bracket with heavy hitch rear blade.
I'm sure the debate about box blade versus grader blade will rage forever, but if one can afford both, why not? My question: How much box blade can the 1025r pull? f course, a 48" would be nice for getting through narrow access openings, and will barely cover the tire tracks. Also, I have seen some much larger tractors (Kubotas) with bigger wheels and the same 25hp engine pulling a 60" box blade. Have you done much box work and do you think the 60" box might be a bit too much drag for the 1025r? I'm leaning towards the 48" mainly for the convenience of slipping through narrow gates.
I tried a 60”. It worked, but in some situations it was a load. Some manufacturers make a 54”. I might be interested in that size.
BTW, thanks for your Merch order!
Thanks for the reply, Tim! I suspected about what your experience was, so I went with the 2048L box, also based on better accessibility into back yards. I don't need the extra speed of a 60", so I'll just spend a bit more time doing the bigger jobs and enjoy the ride! LOL
Will enjoy the shirts and cap. Gotta help support Katriel's education, ya know!
Yeah it's a bulge on the inside front left it's still there even without the load I took the tire off deflated it and it went away a little bit
+scott5609 I've seen that on other ag tires. You might as well get a new one. No fix available
I have a 4' box blade you can borrow anytime if you want to try it out Tim. Only live 20 minutes from you.
+aed53186 cool. We should get together!
Give me your email and I will contact you.
+aed53186 listed under business inquiries.
Tim, what do you charge per hour in your area?
+Andrew Brenneman sorry. We don't discuss pricing at this point.