Good, Bad & Ugly: Compact Tractor Post Hole Digger Setup and First Use
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- čas přidán 26. 10. 2017
- Unboxing, assembly and first use of County Line Post Hole Digger from Tractor Supply by Tractor Time with Tim. We disclose the good, bad and maybe even ugly issues with using a post hole digger on a compact tractor.
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Like anything else Tim the more you use it the more feel you get for the tool and it's abilities. Thanks for the demo.
I was impressed by your progress. I haven't bought one of these diggers because I didn't expect our tractors were physically big enough. I had even imagined using a pulliy on the ROPS so that I could use the curl of the front loader to assist the rock shaft in lifting the auger out of the ground. But I couldn't imagine what significant weight I might have in the loader bucket that I could secure while also curling the loader down and forward.
Love seeing the capabilities and limitations of these little machines. I really need to get something like this for my 10 acre ranchette here in TX and it's good to see what I can (and cannot) do with it before making the purchase. Thanks for your videos and honest evaluations of implements, attachments, and tools.
Did you ever get an auger? I've been eyeing the same one Tim is using at Tractor Supply, and hesitating because of the hp concerns. I'm really curious if it will get through our tough caliche.
@@oldNavyJZ unfortunately no I haven't got the auger yet. I'm a little skeptical that it would work with my little 1025r and all the rock around my place. I've bent enough t-posts breaking through the rock trying to set them in place that I'm a little worried I might have to buy stock in sheer bolt manufacturing if I buy an auger. Lol. One day it will be a higher priority and I'll be motivated enough to roll the dice and give it a go anyway. I do have a wood privacy fence that's getting REALLY close to needing replacement. I may not have any other choice if I want to preserve what's left of my back.
You two make a great team. Plus, I like your wife’s humor. 😂 Thanks for the video. Now to order one.
Hey Tim, Love the videos... I grew up on a farm with a JD850 and placed thousands of posts in very rocky conditions. We always had a 6' long bar to either break or loosen up rocks and roots plus we kept a large pipe wrench with us to back it out when it did get stuck. Try not to go past the point that you cant get the pipe wrench on, just in case. Plus you may want to keep a spare set of cutting teeth for the auger when you go on a job, you never know when they will break or get worn out after hitting all that concrete. Thanks for sharing a lot of your experiences. FYI, after watching most of your videos, I went out and bought my own 1025R from the local dealer. After a few months, I already have over 60 hours on her and loved every minute. Keep the videos coming
I love the story. I just hope Deere Corporate reads this comment!!!!
I usually only need the post hole auger when building corrals. When I fix fence I use steel posts to replace the old cedar posts as they break. I do use it for corner posts sometimes but I usually just dig em in by hand.
Good video guys! I've buried my auger with the 4520 before, so don't feel bad. Adjust your 3pt drop so it won't go down fast and that helps. I also have to sit in the cab to run the auger, that way I can move forward/backward to keep the bit straight up and down for good holes. Helps to have someone outside giving you thumbs up when you're plumb.
I also keep several extra shear bolts in the manual canister, along with the wrenches to tighten them.
I use one of these on my Tym-254 (25 HP) , have done dozens of holes and have been happy with this post hole digger
Tim, growing up on a farm we used a post hole digger a lot building fences. I have had one get stuck as well. I found the best way to avoid getting the auger stuck was to keep the RPMs up to keep spinning the dirt out of the hole and as you found, lower it very slowly. Also, I like to keep the auger spinning as I raise it out of the hole to keep throwing the dirt out of the hole. Overall, I think your technique was great, but you can expect the the auger to get stuck occasionally. When that happens, I had good luck removing the shear bolt to detach the auger, then using a long rod in the shear bolt hole to spin the auger backwards. Also, I don’t think I would auger into concrete anymore. That has to be bad in your auger.
Your honesty really helped me a lot so thank you very much. I am looking to only dig for 24in holes so I should have no issues.
You asked what else a post hole digger can be used for. I use mine to split wood with a large wood screw attachment. I think it was called an atomic wood screw or something like that. It works great , has a few quirks and can split rails. Keep up the good work.
Tim, from what I have seen it looked like it worked quite well! I would stay clear of Maple roots a few feet from the trunk but overall I think it did the job nicely! Thanks!
+ScoutCrafter thanks Scout!
I am thinking of buying a post hole borer as I think with the concrete yours did a pretty good job
Michael
Tim, I know you said you were disappointed in the way Johnny handled the job with the post hole digger but I have to admit, seeing it in use was much MORE than I ever expected. Johnny got the job done and even with the trial and errors, I think it went amazingly smooth. Watching this video of yours definitely made me a believer that the 1025R could handle doing this job, and doing it well !!! I would have no problem justifying this additional piece of equipment if the need arises based on your video. Well done indeed. =)
Thanks. Yes, I agree with your comments. As usual, Johnny beats a shovel!
I am amazed at what can be done with this tractor.
Thanks for sharing your real world experiences!
Johnny did just fine! Little tractors have big hearts. My JD 850 is only 28 HP but you can't tell him that....that thing is unstoppable. Great video, thanks. 👍🇺🇸
+Golden Farms yes, amazing!
Y’all got the job done and you learned some things along the way. Everything Attachments makes a subcompact specific posthole digger. I don’t know how the specs or the price compares to the one sold by Tractor Supply. Great video.
It's a good thing you have Christy! Real men don't read instructions until they are in trouble! When I have dug post holes, I used either a screw type manual digger or a scissor type (easier when there are a lot of rocks. Then I fill with a bag of DRY cement mix which absorbs the water from the ground and sets nice and hard. I was told this was a dumb idea by one of my neighbors. Then the town snowplow got too close to the three mail boxes. How to get it out of the hole. Well, I inherited a combination of a come-along/ tractor jack and an old chain for a car tire with bars on it. Wrap it around the post and start pumping. Out it came though I had to use my pry bar (thin end) to get the leverage I needed.
I like it. I used one I rented when I still had my 2210. 12" auger going down 24", it did good. It takes a little to learn it but it's not bad.
+mi2tn this didn't seem so easy.
You have me reconsidering purchasing a hole digger to plant trees. Even with my 3039r. Nice video, good information to ruminate on.
+H Smith ah, will work fine on a 3039r. Just not enough tractor with the 1025r. Enough to get it done, but not smoothly. The 3039r's lift capacity will really help you! ...and PHD is inexpensive.
Have a 3046R and have that very same PHD (was part of what made me go O.o and watch the vid) I can confirm that both with the better hydraulics and the HP of the engine, so long as you're not doing something you shouldn't, you'll have absolutely no problem with it. The added weight and incremental 3-point drop also helps counter its tendency to pull.
We have an old John Deere 1010 that we use for the post hole auger and to run the grain auger during wheat harvest.
The sucking the auger down and getting stuck isn’t just a compact tractor problem, I’ve done it on more than one occasion with my 706,and its roughly 80hp. There are many who criticize the use of 3/4” drive as overkill, but I use my set for lots, from wing bolts and axle nuts on aircraft to rim nuts on tractors, makes life easier. Another good video.
+Airplane Doctor thanks Doc! A 706 would likely handle this auger a lot better than Johnny!
Nice video tim and nice tool,and heavy use for the first time💪💪
I was surprised that the post hole digger would work on that small tractor, but it is nice that it did. I have a 3032E tractor and that would work fine on my tractor, and would be great on my model 790 also.
I chuckle at the idea of taking the deck off and on. I don’t have a concrete floor, but I have a kubota! I’d love the Deere drive over system. Needless to say, mine stays on for most everything. Good video. I’d pay no mind to people who say PHD are hard on the tractor. It’s a tractor, it’s supposed to lead a hard life. Use it and enjoy it.
Thanks for your comment, John. Non-Deere salesmen are quick to bad-mouth the auto-connect deck. ...but it works like a champ for me. Once in awhile it takes a couple of tries to get it attached, but wow! This is a VERY handy feature.
Hey Tim, great video. I noticed you talking about the issues with the mower deck being on the tractor at the same time as a 3 point implement. You may want to consider this option. My 1023e came with a different setup. I actually didn't know it when I bought the tractor and neither did the salesman, but mine has an extra hydraulic line plumbed under the tractor that has to be inserted into the black color-coded quick coupler to raise and lower the deck. This means that my deck goes up and down by using the loader joystick and not the 3 point lift lever. The reason I said the salesman didn't know was when he was demonstrating installation of the mower he couldn't figure out how to make the autoconnect pto move. He had to ask someone else who showed him the other hose. The benefit of this approach means I can mow with my 3 point arms and quick hitch on and in the fully raised position. This has proven to be a big advantage for me because I mow a steep highway ditch on my property by backing up the ditch bank. This wouldn't be possible with the link arms down so low because they would dig into the ground. The downside means that I have one extra step when installing the mower because I have to hook up that hose. I have never seen this set up before. Every video I have seen shows either the deck height is adjusted by the 3 point lift or a separate electric switch. Have you ever heard of one like mine?
Kirk Brinkley my 1026r has the very same option when I bought the tractor few years ago as a youth model I got home with it and couldn’t get the mower deck to go up or down and it was already too late to call the dealer because they were already closed I had to do research to find out about this option some days are like it some days I don’t because it runs off of the loader controls But it does make moving the mower deck Up and down much easier
+Kirk Brinkley Kirk, please visit my website tractortimewithtim.com for a complete description of the 3 lift types including part numbers and relative costs. I still think the 'mechanical lift' which I have is the best answer for me. Thanks.
I had the option for that on my 1023e. They called it hydraulic or manual lift. With the manual lift it used the 3 point lift and with the hydraulic it uses the loader lever with the additional hose. More to hook up and unhook when removing the deck and it costs more so most all of the ones I've seen have the manual option.
I’m now using the FRONTIER PHD200... Awesome in quality and strength🤗👍🏻 Just bought it, PERFECT 👊🏻👊🏻👊🏻👊🏻
Don't stop the augers when it is in the ground or else it will lock up, stay on the machine so you can rock the machine around so make your hole level or plum, it will also help you when you get it stuck in the ground.
I just bought the Everything Attachments post hole digger and haven't gotten to use it yet but, I've used a PhD behind a 8n Ford tractor many times. It never ran out of power to lift the auger up but we always ran it fast, go down a foot, then lift it out. Repeating that until it was at depth. On the last dig, we'd shut it off, lift it up, turn it on to spin the dirt off the auger. Do that a couple of times, the hole got pretty clean that way.
This honestly did alot better than I expected.
Tim, I grew up on a farm and we had a post hole digger for behind the tractor (mostly used a Ford 3600). The further back you put the lift point, the more strength you get. You figured out the trick. Down a few inches and pull out. Down a few inches and pull out. I think your stronger shear bolt caused your stuck situation. Better to stop the spinning before you dig so deep. Enjoyed the video!
+NCSUCPE Tractor Fun thanks for your comment.
i used my 1025r with the frontier auger. worker great never a shortage of power ir control drilled 25 holes in two hours, never left the tractor seat just nedd to pull the bit up every foot or so to clear the dirt. Plenty of power at recommended RPM
There is definitely something to be said for matching the implement to the tractor. Within the HP range and OEM recommended are two very different things.
I pull mine out every foot or so while the auger is turning to clear the hole and clear the auger of dirt. Even doing this I stuck mine once and bent the arm trying to pull it out.
I always take the auger off to mount or dismount it to the three point hitch, it seems to be much easier than trying to wrestle it with the auger on.
You can take the deck off with a 3 point implement, there is a knob under the seat to close off a valve in the 3 point that locks the height in so you can lower the mower while keeping the implement off the ground.
Great video even though you seemed a little frustrated! Keep working with it.
+Pat Roberson need more power!!!!
Tim when using a post hole digger I would suggest using you're adjustment down between your legs right below your seat to slow the drop. Slamming that auger down could make it grab and before you have a chance it will bury it. We used to have an old 40 John Deere 2 cylinder that we used to dig post holes with and we used to have a lot of issues when slamming it down and that auger grabbing. And we was using a bigger auger than you had and that old two cylinder gas engine was only rated at 17 horse. And we killed it a few times and had to back it out with a pipe wrench. We shared the bolt a few times. So Johnny is able to share that Bolt and cause damage to that gearbox if you don't have the right bolt in there. I would just keep a few grade 5 bolts with you or you will water out that hole or strip out that gearbox pretty quick.
Now I have not tried a post hole digger on my 1025r yet. I was not sure if it would raise it high enough but after watching this video and seeing how Johnny handles it. It may do alright on that part.
That is a nice post hole digger you got there Tim.
Good video. I would suggest that you go back to the grade 5 bolt and keep a few spares on hand. The torque on your pto can damage the drive train if you bind up too hard.
Tim, great new tool! You need to get one for Casey! My neighbor has a post hole digger for his mini excavator. It has a hydraulic motor on it.
+Fred Kaminski working on it, Fred!
Another option would be to use a smaller auger to drill a pilot hole, it is more work to swap it over but probably quicker than getting it really stuck. If the auger is struggling with you there with all that nice depth of light soil, I don't think I will try one here in Wales. All we have is rocks, roots and rain.
A friend of mine had a post hole digger for his 8N. It had handles on it at the gear box like a two man digger. My friend wood run the tractor a d operate the lift. I held the handles to guide the auger in and out. We never got stuck, or sheared a pin.
Thanks for your evaluation of the post hole digger. I have one and use it on my 1026R. I also had one that I used with a previous 6300...Even with the 6300, the digger could get stuck in the ground and the hydraulics alone were not capable of lifting it. I found that placing the raise lower handle in the raise position, with the PTO off, and rocking the tractor forward and back a little to break the auger loose worked every time. You may even have to steer right and left a little while rocking,... eventually, the auger will free itself and the hydraulics will pull it up...I have never had to "unscrew" one, but I'm sure that could happen someday...
Please leave the grade 5 bolt in...it protects the tractor as much as the gearbox...
Great work...Love the show.
Could you please mention the place where you got your step for the tractor and where you got the ratchet tie downs...? Thanks
+Tom Talley thanks for the comment. Visit my website for lots more info (like discussion and. Links for the straps).
Backhoe steps came from boltonhooks.com
Tractor Time with Tim got it...thanks.
Thanks Tim for this video! Interesting that you comment that the 1025r may not have quite the power for this attachment. I was considering getting one for mine, so this is good information. Having said that, even if you have to go slower, and up and down more, my back says the old two man auger is not an option! Plus getting one of my kids to be the 'other man' is highly dependent on them putting their phone down. lol
+Scott Moffatt maybe I was too negative. It did the job. I would not even try. Two-man one. They look crazy to me!
I’ve got the same phd and tractor. I bought it in June to dig the post holes for my new pole barn. It seems to yield the best results running the tractor at idle.....so the digger doesn’t get into trouble as fast. It did a good job on 22 post holes for the pole barn. I’ve since used it to plant some bushes and install a new post for the mail box. Light years ahead of a manual phd!
+Alan Schmalzried I wanted to run at idle, but it sucked itself down so fast that the tractor couldn't pull it...even when I barely moved the 3ph lever.
Tractor Time with Tim You’re right. Even with careful operation....that phd can really get away from you. I’ve had to dig the auger out several times. Roots are the enemy! Lol
+Alan Schmalzried you got it!
Lookin for a smaller tracker. I think you got me sold on this one. John deer should be payin you a commission! 👍🏻
Tim, your reviewers comments are right on the money. You have to go slow and take small bites then raise back up. I have dug many post holes with a Ford 4000 and the same thing would happen to it that happened to you as far as getting sucked down in and buried. That 1025R did a great job. It was just like doing computer support when you say it was UE. Do you know what that means?
+Andy Grimm i know more about computer support than I care to admit! As you likely know, I am a software engineer for my 'day job'
The problem is that I couldn't keep it from sucking itself down, even with only a tiny movement on the 3pt lever. If using low engine rpm, it would kill the engine. I had no choice but to run the engine at higher rpm.
You can see that I tried lower rpm in the video.
first keep people well away from the auger especially when you are starting the hole if the auger tooth grabs a rock or root it can sling the auger out and break your leg especially if you are turning fast when you back up to the mark and get auger verticle tilt bucket blade streight down and lift front wheels a little off the ground then you can use curl to move a little back or forward to keep auger strieght and getting the weight on the bucket will stabilize the tractor and always pull up a little after a each foot or so to keep from augering in and getting stuck you seem to have a feel for it so i think you will be an expert in no time good video thanx
An augers is an attachment that creates a lot of suction...
The key is to start at minimal rpm and slowly let it down. You may want to try digging half way then disengage pull up and engage to clean auger. Then go back in for the other half.
The longer you allow the auger to turn at the bottom the more it will break up the dirt.
Even on a 40hp tractor an auger can stall the tractor or get stuck.
I found if you get stuck pull up on the depth lever a little bit then slowly rock the tractor forward and back. This will release the suction. You may have to speed up the rpm to get it to release.
Honestly, your nervousness, is exactly what i would do, better to not break something and get the job done a little slower, than to cause a couple thousand in repair cost. I thing you are doing it the right way.
That drive over deck must be great if you say you take your mower deck off "several times per week". I have a Kubota BX2350 that's about the same size tractor with a 60" mid mount mower and it's somewhat of a chore to remove. It does raise up higher, I think about 8 inches so I leave it on most of the time. Nice video of the post hole digger. Now you can tell all your friends you have your PHD, lol.
I am in Georgia and our clay is very hard and I have had mine get stuck more often then not. I have a MF gc 1710 and I am on the second hole so that the auger is just high enough off the ground and can't use the 3rd hole like you are using or else the auger would drag the ground at an angle. I finally got fed up and what I did was take 2 4x4s with holes drilled in it and using the hole in the bar below where the instruction tube would go and put a bar in there and then through the 4x4s at different heights so that it has a stop and does not suck it down in to deep. By having holes drilled into the 4x4s at different heights, I just keep dropping it down one hole at a time. This way it never gets to far in without me being able to pull it out. sure I have to stop 3 or 4 times to move the 4x4s for each hole, but it sure beats getting it stuck and manually have to back it out.
SO...............u conquered that quite well. ha! i knew right away what brand it was gonna be-when u spoke of the price. lol wink-wink!! still a great video too show just what a post hole digger will do on a small frame tractor. i seen ur videos are getting mixed in with thousands of others now. i was u-tube surfing the other night i couldn't sleep-and bang-up comes a video of urs. i had to laugh-ur getting around in the world my friend.
+BigJim57 ha!
No way am I going to take a brand new post hole digger and run in a hole with concrete.
Lol
Using a 2720 and the same PHD with 9" auger, I buried mine in clay on the first hole, broke a shear bolt on floating rock once, but no other problems on about 100 holes on my 1200 feet of goat wire fence. I used a bolt and crush sleeve in the wishbone to boom position to take the slop out of the boom. I've since drilled 50+ more holes with no problems. I always sit on the tractor when drilling which requires good neck flexibility. You have to learn to pull the tractor forward or reverse depending on the angle of the ground to get good plumb holes. Otherwise you can't plumb posts on string lines for good looking fence. A bigger auger to create more room makes for more fill, tamping, and/or concrete.
I forgot to add digger bars are your friend and a great workout. ;D
You have the technique down! I have a 23hp, but it is not a lawn-mower style; it is a small tractor. If you were to see me, my process would look identical. Tip 1: I use my wife to eyeball the auger to ensure it stays vertical. Because of the mechanics, she has me move the tractor forward at least a couple of times on each hole to keep the auger straighten up. Tip 2: if the ground has vegetation like grass or weeds, try to dig or strip them off, for they will get wound up on the tip and kill it's ability to drill. Tip 3: I saw this at the very end of the video, but I keep a manual post hole shovel available at the drill site. I use it to remove the loose stuff at the bottom of the hole before "using" the hole.
I had the same problem with my auger sucking the auger into the ground and getting the auger stuck,I ended up bending the auger bit,I have a 5000lb tractor with a 55 hp turbo. I went and bought another auger bit and got it stuck, had to use the tractor hydrolic lift and my high lift jack and a shovel to get it out without bending it.my final solution was to put a different starter tip on the auger bit.one that doesn't screw the bit down into the ground like a drywall screw. Now it works like a charm.
You are probably right. A less aggressive tip might be the solution!
Tim I think everything worked fine. As others have said you just need a little practice and I agree about going back to the grade 5 shear bolt. I would rather brake a bolt more often than worry damaging the hydraulics or gears on Johnny.
First time I used mine, it got stuck on a root. With no reverse we had to dig it out by hand, So be careful when digging around trees or any other objects that might get it in a bind. Side note: (Take your time drilling, don't force the drill down to hard. Try to keep a good up-&-down rhythm going while pulling the dirt out when digging.)
Did you try to screw it back out with a pipe wrench? I heard that works.
No. It was jammed up to tight and digging around it enough to get a saw to was the only quick solution. I doubt using a monkey wrench would work on pretty much any situation like this, but you never know until you try.
Tim , Posthole diggers are very rough on your tractor. The internal gears and/or clutches ! The grade 5 bolt is to protect your tractor as well as the digger ! Also I keep a pipe wrench around to reverse the p h digger if it wraps around something. You will get the hang of it brother. Just takes patience and more patience !! Be safe and God bless you and your family !!!! Eddy
+Ray Eddy thanks Eddy!
as well as Don't rush.. take your time.. that fast up and drop back down as fast as possible...bad very bad
+Richard Elbe very bad, very bad! :-)
Tim when using a post hole digger I would suggest using you're adjustment down between your legs right below your seat to slow the drop. Slamming that auger down couldn't make it grab and before you have a chance it will bury it. We used to have an old 40 John Deere 2 cylinder that we used to dig post holes with and we used to have a lot of issues when slamming it down and that auger grabbing. And we was using a bigger auger than you had and that old two cylinder gas engine was only rated at 17 horse. And we killed it a few times and had to back it out with a pipe wrench. We shared the bolt a few times. So Johnny is able to share that Bolt and cause damage to that gearbox if you don't have the right bolt in there. I would just keep a few grade 5 bolts with you or you will water out that hole or strip out that gearbox pretty quick.
Now I have not tried a post hole digger on my 1025r yet. I was not sure if it would raise it high enough but after watching this video and seeing how Johnny handles it. It may do alright on that part.
Anyone used the Deere Digger? i heard that it has special geometry 3pt adapter to alleviate some of the lift issues. of course $$$...also Tim, invest in a "hi lift" jack. hi-lift.com/hi-lift-jacks/
in your line of work/hobby i think you will find a multitude of uses for one including a stuck post hole digger getter outer. trust me on that one they are very handy to have. and not at all limited to jacking cars...
Something I'm told - I don't have a post hole digger myself - is that if you tighten up the 3-point decent rate control all the way it will help prevent the auger from screwing itself into the dirt. As long as it brings up the "chips" faster than it's digging down you're okay. Unless you snag a heavy root, then you're screwed.
Hey Tim, thanks for this video. My wife is wanting to fence about 2 acres of our yard with a chain link fence and I can save a lot of money if I do it myself. Was hoping my 1025R could handle the job. Looks like if I take my time it should be just fine.
+Keith Miller yea, just don't expect perfection, and get a long pry bar!
For chain link you could probably use a 6" auger and it would go way easier. That extra 3" of width makes a big difference in how easy it is to pull the auger bit back out. Just make sure you get a post hole digger for a sub-compact. The "compact" size is probably too big. You don't want the digger itself to weigh 1/2 of your total lift capacity. Also, if your soil is hard clay like where I live, little tip... Start each hole just a few inches, either with the tractor or using good-ole manual diggers and then fill it with water and let is sit for a few hours. It will soften up the ground and make your life alot easier.
+Jeremy Fortune these were 4x4 posts
Tractor Time with Tim I was responding to the guy who wants to build a chain link. Those are like 2” poles so a 6” hole should do the trick.
+Jeremy Fortune oh, sorry for the confusion!
You can get rid of a lot of the side to side slop if you replace the pull pin on top of the lifting hoop with a big bolt. Might need a couple washers between the forks to take up the space.
Dear Mr Tim - from this side of the pond I must admit that I do like the very practical and 'can do' videos that you and other American chaps do - very useful (+ the helpful comments below) and considering the limited power of your machine pretty darned impressive I think. I have a little John Deere 755 and it is a great little beast ! No wonder the USA helped us win the War with Sherman tanks etc. Germany spends too long trying to get it right, Italy spends too long designing it, but the USA just gets on with it. Tee hee. Can you help us get Brexit done and dusted please ?!
Love the comment! Yea, you guys have been debating Brexit for years now. I guess the debate will continue until folks forget that there was a vote to exit!!!!
Good old gear syrup. Nice that this post digger looks like it doesn't dig banana holes either like some of the bigger fixed auger 3pt ones.
That looked like the proper procedure to me drill down a little and bring it up and clear the bit. Helped a friend build fence that's the way we did it (8n Ford). Great video. Just be patient.
+John Deno thanks John.
I have used my 1025 to bore 40 12” holes 36” deep.. key is to keep the bit straight and clear the hole often.. I did get into a root and it screwed itself into the ground but I stopped it and used a big pipe wrench to un screw it to a point I could pull it out.. be patient it works well
+Mike Brewer sure wish it had a reversible gearbox!
Appeared to dig the non concrete holes just fine.
nice video, yeah the shear bolt should break before serious damage even at grade 8
use a propane torch to soften the grade 8 bolts heat 'em red and let 'em air cool . In dry soil a little water can help. And sometimes a bigger auger will clear the rocks better. The bigger hole helps with alignment issues too more room to play with
I have this same digger for my 1025R. It works great. The tractor has plenty of power for digging. You do have to be careful letting the auger pull itself into the ground. It can screw itself down instead of cutting the dirt out and then the tractor does not have the lifting power to pull it out.(Learned from experience) So, do just like he did in the video. Dig a little, bring it up to clear it...repeat.
Very difficult to keep from digging in too fast.
I have the same digger on my JD 4310. The only problem I've ever had was using the 6 inch blade in this hard clay in central PA. I got it stuck in the ground twice. Lesson? Stick with the 12-inch auger.
Great skill getting next to concrete.
I bought one of the little Mahendra eMax 25 Subcompact tractor Only reason I bought it was because it was really cheap and only had 40 hours you know I thought these little tractors were a joke And only reason I bought it because I could get into my horse barn where my big tractor can’t That little tractor Has absolutely changed my Opinion About these little machines I have moved full-sized Hay rolls with it It’s absolutely mind blowing what these tractors are capable of
Yes, we've been trying to show that for 3 years now on this channel. Of course there are limitations, however, you can accomplish LOTS of work with these little guys!
You should revisit the post hole digger with the 2038R,
Still a good video! Would definitely be a good side by side comparison though...
Looked like it did a pretty good job honestly
Using water when augering holes helps. Go down at least a foot, then start adding water. This way when you reach your bottom you want, you can stop the auger, pull it up, once up then turn on the auger and the mud will fling off leaving a clean hole. The auger alone won't clean out the hole.
Good idea. My manual way never gave me a nice clean hole.
one thing i for got in my first comment was i can reverse the drill and it helps clean out the hole some time i need to use post hole digger to get the bottom dirt out
I have the same PHD on my 4066R. Your smaller tractor does just fine with it.
+Greg Randolph thanks Greg
Tim I know a lot of these post hole diggers are hard on the subcompacts. Everything Attachments has a model out just for subcompacts tractors that factor in the smaller 3 point setup and closer ground clearance. Checkout their youtube page or website for all the neat stuff they have.
Watch Everything Attachments video on post hole digger. It's about 5 years ago .
Time for the 2550 or something like it ... thAt tractor has almost the same foot print as johnny just slightly bigger wheels and more hydro power ,,,,but it was your first. Time using it i imagine after a while you will learn some tricks to help out johnny make do with the hp he has,, good video tim thank you !!!
+PhatboyHD88 thanks! Yes, experience always helps!
Nice video. But aren’t you supposed to creep forward as you get lower with the auger in order to keep the bit straight?
Do you have the part numbers for the post hole digger and auger?
just like everything tim there's a learning curve my friend grows grapes and every year they changed the broken post . a lot of land sells to welches here in westfield ny for juice and jellies and they have a bigg mf and they get it stuck too but they do as your were just like drilling wood go a few inches and clear out the hole and our land well theres is on the side of a excartment rocky and clay under the good soil they do other fruits too i think its a five generation farming apples cherries peaches grapes even corn and i believe soy beans they are actually the only farm around the general area with the cherry shaker picker and grape shaker and besides there own they do other farmers too
sounds good, Philip!
What size cylinders are on the 3 point hitch? I have the country line but with stock cylinders cannot lift high enough to mount the auger. Appreciate model#.
Tim or anyone, do you know if there is a sensor under the seat for the 2025r that would stop the pto after 10 or 20 seconds? I took the seat off to fix a stuck valve for the 3 pt hitch where it stopped going down. Now the pto won't work after 20 seconds. 3 days into tractor ownership not going good. Need to hook up auger to put in 4 acres of fence posts.
I think you should chain the pto shaft guard so it doesn’t spin. JMHO
I always run my post hole digger while on the tractor that way I can clutch it if needed to stop the digger if it starts digging like crazy. I haven't ran the digger on the Kioti CK2510 yet but it did great on my old Yanmar 1802d and I think it was only 21 hp. I would for sure recommend running it while on the tractor and having a spotter to tell you if you need to adjust the forward/backward position of the digger to get a nice vertical hole. Also I am not sure if the 1025r has a flow control to slow down the drop speed of your 3 point but you can choke it way down also to keep it from running away.
+Chadd Thompson we have independent pto. So, clutch (if there were a clutch!) would not stop it.
You could still hit the switch and turn the PTO off quickly if it started to get out of control.
Yep, if you are using rear 3 point and PTO, you have to remove the mower deck because it limits how high you can raise or lower the rear 3 point arms. Major difference in the limit with mower on or off.
+Malakie Usn I disagree. You can raise/lower the 3pt through the full range with MMM on.
Imagine if you had sheared the bolt WHILE the auger was at maximum depth! Do you think you could have replaced the shear bolt easily if the gearbox was directly on the dirt?
Appreciate the video. I am about to buy a compact tractor and looking at a 17 1025R with the same post hole digger. I don't see a down side to the post hole digger given it isn't a Dingo but more universal. I had a Bobcat walk behind that must weight 4000 and 50hp but that is a different class of machine. I am a JD lover having run them in high school and college and they always worked never broke such a great machine. I am going to look at your other vids which I have seem some before since the JD I am looking at has a lot of attachments. I don't use it for mowing but for clearing some ground post holes and bush hogging in sandy soil. Many thanks.
If you are buying the 1025R for many other purposes, then the $400-$500 for the post hole digger is a minor charge. The PHD works ok, but it is a bit frustrating. This is NOT the worlds best way to dig a post hole, but when combined with all the other things the 1025R can do, it is a great machine.
I talked with the folks at Everythign Attachments. I think they have a PHD which is better suited for the 1025R. It is shorter, so closer to the tractor. ...this would allow the 3 pt to lift it up out of the hole much easier.
As someone once said - there is no replacement for displacement and your Johnny is just a little to small for some tasks. That 2032 you looked at a while back or even a 3,000 series would be a better choice. Your 1025 is still just a lawn tractor and don't forget it!
You’re missing one thing in this project Tim - rocks! Ya can’t dig down more than 2 inches here in central PA without hitting them. Makes any type of post hole digging tool a frustrating experience, human powered or machine driven!
+Craig Gruneberg yea, that would be much more frustrating. We really have ideal soil here.
Not that I like to do this with my tractor, but I have used a hydraulic truck jack to rescue the bit when I hit the clay of Ohio soil.
It is necessary to buy a 36 inch bit for compact tractors 1025r and 1023E?
How do you keep the pto going with out being on the seat.
A skid steer is what you want for digging post holes. They're compact, maneuverable and powerful. The digger is up front so you can see what you're doing. The hydraulics are WAAAY more powerful than a tractor for lifting the auger back up. The best thing though, is the hydraulic auger has a reverse so you can back it out if you get into trouble.
2nd point, they make an auger bit which will break up and dig into concrete. They're just expensive.
I used to have a little 16 HP tractor and I've dug many holes with it and my little Rhino post hold digger. I just had to go slow given it's limited hydraulic power. That was using a 9" bit. I have a 55 HP tractor now and have to go almost as slow when using a 12" or 18" bit or if the ground is super hard. It's all relative. Also, I had a far easier time getting that little tractor in the right position to dig the hole than the bigger one I have now. With the big tractor, I just have to get close and dig a bigger hole to compensate ;)
+Jeremy Fortune you must have enjoyed this video :-). Lots of comments!
Tractor Time with Tim HA. Yep. I guess I just have a love / hate relationship with the post hole digger 😀
Except, as Tim has commented on several occasions, on a lot of his jobs a skid steer would have done significant damage to the customer's property. Of course, the Mini-Ex is going to do the same thing when it turns.
Oh yeah, I know a skid steer doesn’t make sense for Tim to purchase or anything. I’m just saying those things kick a tractor’s butt when it comes to digging post holes. I personally don’t own one because I like the versatility of the tractor more and my “finance committee” would kill me in my sleep if I bought another expensive piece of equipment 😉
+Jeremy Fortune ha! I think the summary is that it is hard to have the perfect piece of equipment for every job. However, the Tractor's versatility really makes it a good choice.
Always call 811 before you dig. Put the same grade shear bolts back in to protect the tool.
Welcome to our channel.
Hey tim the reason the put the shear bolt on them is to protect the tractors pto clutches and gears that are in the tractor
+Chad Isett yes, but if I can't drill with it, I have to do something.
Yes you won't be able to drill with it either if you tear your tractors pto up!
+C. Watts ah, come on. I'm not gonna tear anything up with 24hp!
"Patience & Perseverance"...
There is a tip that breaks rock. It’s made for rocky soil, not to bore through bed rock. Look it up.
what do you do in rocky terrain? i want one of these but we literally have so much rock i just can’t see this working very well even with my 35HP tractor
Not many options. We have some of the worst ground also. Some holes go in perfect and literally 2ft next to it you can't drill at all because of glacial boulders are hiding below the topsoil. The higher the HP the more risk of damaging the auger unfortunately. Short of hydraulically driven augers, which won't break u-joints (yes been there done that because the rocks were so bad) having a pressure drill come out is your best bet.