Graham's Guide to the Panasonic Lumix FZ2000/2500: part3: Semi Automatic modes
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- čas přidán 18. 10. 2018
- In this continuation of this series for new users to the FZ2000 camera I look at the semi automatic modes of Program auto (P), Aperture priority (A) and Shutter priority (S).
Whilst there is no difference in the captured image if the resulting exposures from each mode are the same it is a mater of personal preference of which mode to use. This will depend upon whether the image has a requirement for depth of field or controlling subject motion blur as to whether A or S mode might be applicable or if just using P mode and program shift will get the same result.
Plenty of hints and tips along the way and screen shows of the image capture process should help you understand each method.
My photoblog :
www.grahamhoughton.com/
The next video will concentrate on the M (manual mode) and how metering and focus settings can affect the image,
I'll also begin a primer for capturing video with this camera. - Jak na to + styl
Don’t think even Panasonic knows this much about their camera. Thank you.
I’m so happy to have found Grahams FZ2500 videos. He’s the best!
You are still the MAN! Thank you for you guidance! Very much appreciate your work!
Thank you for such informative videos. You've put tremendous effort into these videos and hope you enjoyed making them as much as we enjoy watching them.
Very good so well explained and you give eough time for it to sink into the Grey matter. Thanks for taken the time to produce these lessons stay safe see ya
Many thanks Graham. I appreciate the work you put into these very detailed instruction videos, well done. One thing (of many) that confuses me is the fn6-preview function and its uses. Sometimes the evf/screen reflects the effect of changing shutter and aperture and sometimes not. Be great if you could cover this in a future video.
Many thanks dear Graham, so interesting video !!! Fantastic !!!
Many thanks for this excellent tutorial
Great series, Graham. You say at 19:40 that 'MSHTR' is Manual Shutter - it's actually Mechanical Shutter (the other being Electronic Shutter). Just in case some are confused by the word 'Manual'.
extremely helpful graham thankyou,
09:39 Graham your the best, I learned sooo much from you. :)
Thank you! I learned so much !
Very Good info thank you 👌👌
Love You :)
Nice
What is the manual focus like during a zip zoom? If you auto focus on a far distant subject at maximum zoom, then switch to manual focus mode and fast zoom out to wide and back in again at close up, does the lens maintain focus throughout the range and hold it at the wide angle end? Almost performing like a par focal lens ( although I think the lens itself is not actually a par focal lens?) Thanks
Is there a focus ring on this lens so I can turn off the AF?
Another great video Graham. I am getting more and more interested in this. I’d like to see you shooting for example birds at full zoom from quite a distance !! To see how croppable they are !! ( just a thought )
Good question and it exposes the weaknesses in the extended 480mm EFL lens. Its not quite as sharp as the FZ1000 which itself was a little soft at 400mm EFL. Doing a crop to equal 600mm might show it up even more. I'll give it a try when I can get out again. I hope Panasonic bring out a FZ400 with the same lens and a 20M sensor and inbuilt ND filters that would be ideal.
Graham Houghton Oh yes that 400 sounds perfect !! That’s just what we want ! Thank you.
@@GrahamHoughton12 On reviews comparing The Sony RX10 III & The FZ2500 - both have 1" 20M sensors - most reviewers say the Sony produces sharper images. The Sony has a 600mm lens. What is your take on this difference & shouldn't Panasonic's future FZ3500 (?) be able to match the Sony's in the sharpness dept ? Is the Sony Zies lens as well as their sensor of a higher caliber ?
Hi Graham for videoing fast moving Jets should i set the shutter speed to to 1000 then switch to the video control? thanks Russell.
I've bought an FZ2000 and I'm looking forward to going back through all these tutorials to get a proper understanding of the features once it arrives. I previously had an FZ1000 from the Panasonic Outlet store on Ebay but I found a significant issue with blurring/de-focusing on the right-side of some wide-angle images. After some exchanges in the post (where they claimed there was no fault) I eventually returned it and got my money back. I'm hoping very much that this was a 'one-off' but interested to know if you've heard of, or experienced anything like this on the Panasonic bridge range before? I suspected it could have been the IOS function which was at fault but tests were inconclusive. Happy to send you some examples if you're interested in seeing them.
Yes it is a problem that I have seen before and in fact my FZ2000 which had the lens replaced has not been correctly set up and the RHS of the display is slightly out of focus compared to the centre. It's more common on the compact travel zooms where the focus lens moves on a slide with only one support. The FZ2000 has two guide rails so if it has been set correctly it should stay set. I guess it depends who sets the sensor alignment at the factory during the build as to how much attention they pay to getting it correct. I do believe that here are "Friday" cameras out in the market.
Many thanks for your reply Graham. It is good to know you have experienced this. I just hope the camera I've bought wasn't made on a Friday!
czcams.com/video/DsJJO92hogw/video.html This is the photo referred to above.
@@GrahamHoughton12 I think what I might be hearing is if one buys a ' well ' built Fz2500 that focuses sharply , that it should not be sent in to the Panasonic service dept where it might require disassembly. Sensor / lens alignment should be left for the factory. I'm hoping that a future Fz3500 comes with weather / dust sealing.
Thanks for these videos Graham. I have recently switched from DSLR to LUMIX FZ2000. I’ve been struggling a bit with the amount of controls and settings! Working through these videos (and the many others on your website) the air is beginning to clear.
One question. I have in the past used Adobe RGB as the colour space, and have seen this recommended elsewhere recently. I notice that you have sRGB selected. Could you comment on this. Thanks.
Steve L - I was thinking the same thing actually. I’ve noticed he shoots at 16:9 as well, when I’ve heard it’s better to shoot at the native 3:2 and then crop in post? I’m not sure how true that is, or why it’d make much of a difference, but it’d be good if Graham could comment on it.
RGB is preferred if you are printing the images but most displays and web based browsers will convert it to the lower gamut sRGB anyway. The only difference is the green is expanded in RGB as far as I can recall.
I shoot RAW + JPEG,.The 16:9 JPEGs are used exclusively for these displays so its ideal for me to see how the final crop will be on the LCD. The RAW file of course hold the full 3:2 image should I need it for any other reason.
Graham Houghton - So if I were to set mine to 16:9, the RAW files should still come out in 3:2? Because if so, that’d actually help a lot.
Cheers for the response.
The answer is YES, the raw file still come out in 3:2
will you be doing a manual for the FZ2000 as you did the FZ300?
At the beginning of 2019 I will have 3 days a week where I can now spend writing again. First task is to complete the long overdue FZ1000 guide and then I might tackle the FZ2000 maybe video related not sure yet.
Graham, you suggest setting NR at -2 and sharpening at +2, but I believe in a previous video about Panasonic FZ's you suggested setting NR at -5 and sharpening at -2 because Panasonic applies too much NR and sharpening to JPEG images. Why the difference?
These are very much personal and transitional adjustments which affect some scenes differently. In general noise reduction works by blurring the image slightly so there is some benefit in reducing it to -2 or turning it off to -5. Sharpening will depend upon subject type. Anything with hard contrast edges like tree branches might begin to show halos if you push the sharpening to +5 but generally I will use +2 for everything. I tend to add sharpening in post production where it can be seen in effect. In a later video I will show how the interaction between noise reduction and sharpening really affects the JPEG images from the camera. Maybe it will be clearer then.
Thanks for your reply. I look forward to your video about NR and sharpening settings because I only shoot in JPEG.
Graham - is there a way to contact you - I need help. My photos, even in iA mode come out very 'unsharp'! I have a Fujifilm DSLR camera too and that takes great crisp pics, but this I can't seem to figure out. Also, sorting out the focus - it keeps switching and not always focussing on what I want. I may be being stupid here but I'm getting lots of noise and I'm about to go to the Galapagos and need this camera to be 'right'! Please please help!
support@grahamhoughton.com for your communication
2s delay is redundant for tripod shots and useless if you want an instant capture. Use the touch-screen facility P49, or Smartphone/Tablet P267 or go old-fashioned and and use a wired shutter release.
This is mainly a video camera and nothing about video so far?
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