What is Program Auto Mode? | Program Mode Explained | Camera P Mode Explained
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- čas přidán 31. 07. 2024
- This video explains everything you need to know about Program auto mode and how to use it improve the scenes and images you shoot. Topics covered include: What program auto mode is, why to use it, how to use it, how it works and effects ISO and more.
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Chapters:
00:00 Opening
02:31 Camera Dial Introduction
03:51 Program Auto Mode
07:15 Why Use Program Auto Mode?
08:40 Learn More
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Aperture Priority vs. Shutter Priority Mode:
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Finally i understand this dang Mode. You are a gift to many like me in the world.
Very kind of you to say. I appreciate you tuning in. If you have any questions, let me know. I'm happy to answer them.
Thank you for this explanation. Will be watching more of your tutorials.
I appreciate that. I have 100+ tutorials available right now & new videos released every Wednesday.
Fabulous tutorial Jim. Something we can all use.
I appreciate you tuning in.
Love this! great content
I appreciate you tuning in.
I've never paid attention to P on the dial so thanks for explaining what to use it for. I always use manual mode so have paid little attention to the others.
I so happy to hear that you learned something new. It is a little know, but useful function. As you use your camera more and in different conditions, you'll find some of the various modes very convenient.
Nice video Jim!
Thanks for watching!
I love this information thank you so much
I appreciate the kind words.
Enlightened thank you
Thanks for tuning in!
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The video is very information on P mode. Since owning the DSLR I have never put my camera on auto mode and to have full control over the camera.
I appreciate you tuning in!
Great info! I admit that I'm a Manual Mode photojournalist, but the Program Mode on my Nikon F750 seems to have some nice alternatives! Thanks....
Program Auto is a good intermediate step to full manual, but you're probably ahead of the level of this video.
Thanks for sharing your experience with great comments... cheers from Australia 🦘🦘😀
I appreciate you tuning in. If you have any questions, ask away. I'm happy to answer them for you.
@@jimcostafilms thanks...I am a Nikon user with a D7100 and D500 and I use P mode frequently as I battle with either S or A mode to get better photos...P mode always seem to give great exposure without the fidling around with adjustments when out & about taking pics... cheers 😀
@@robertdavis1255 If it works for you, then I encourage you to stick with it. As long as you're happy with your images, then keep it up. I did do a tutorial on Aperture Priority vs. Shutter Priority Mode that might help you a bit to work out the kinks. Check it out here: czcams.com/video/6edog-CKQIU/video.html
Suddenly I’m a fan on P mode!
I'm glad I was able to change your mind.
This was really helpful, thank you 🙂
Very kind of you to say. I appreciate you tuning in!
This makes sense!
Thanks for watching!
Good video.
Very kind of you to say, thanks for tuning in.
Thanks. Regards.
I'm glad you found the info helpful. Thanks for tuning in!
Thank boss! I just got a new canon Eos 200d markII which is super cool but I’m still learning how to use it to its full potential. Xoxo YT4B
Thanks for tuning in. Let me know if you have any questions. I'm happy to answer them. You can find useful info to help you here: czcams.com/video/VuCvUgwVLi0/video.html
I’ve got it ! 👍🇬🇧
I appreciate you tuning in!
Thanks. It was a little confusing for me to follow because this is my first good camera (Canon R8) and I don't know much about anything; all of it, actually...aperture, iso, shutter speed, M, A+, P, etc.
I started off using auto, then tried M but couldn't figure it out. Then A+, but didn't like the way the pics looked. Then tried the creative filters and liked "warm" a little but felt it was too strong. So, here I am at P mode now trying to figure this one. So far, I think the color is the closest to real but I'm still having trouble understanding how to be fully confident when I'm out there taking landscape type pics. I actually pull the phone out when theres something I like and want a "good" shot. But, I spent two thousand bucks on this camera and don't want to give up because I'm not smart enough to control it.
I like the graphics you had on screen, even though I had no idea what they mean. Hopefully, once I start understanding, I'll be able to come back and they'll make more sense to me.
For now, I'm just going to keep shooting away with the thought of the rule of ten thousand.
😃
Thank you!
You can find the manual for your camera here:
cam.start.canon/en/C013/manual/c013.pdf
I believe the MODES start on page 34.
You can start with these settings for landscape photography:
www.adobe.com/creativecloud/photography/hub/guides/camera-settings-landscape-photography.html
I’m certain it’ll take you less than 10K hours to improve.
Thanks Jim. I have an old Canon T2i. I like the P mode, allowing you to turn the wheel near the shutter release to select the combination of shutter speed and f stop that fits your conditions. However, I've noticed when I attach a speedlite (430 ex) you cannot adjust the shutter speed and f stop with the function wheel. This is a handicap when shooting with flash fill (manual), when you want to quickly keep the ambient exposure the same, and vary the f stop to control the flash fill exposure. Your thoughts. Thanks, Bob
Hmmm…I can’t say that I’ve ever used that specific combination of camera/flash (with the flash on camera as opposed to off camera triggered remotely). At least I can’t recall doing so.
I don’t know where you are in your testing/troubleshooting process so I’ll have to start at the beginning and we’ll go form there. Maybe we can track down the issue. I will try to help you. The steps below might fix the issue or act as a flash work around.
I have used a Speedlight with a T3i and The settings were as follows:
Set camera to Manual (for full control) with flash on the hot shoe & turn the camera on.
Go to the Menu
Open the Camera Icon
Scroll down to Flash Control
Hit the Set Button
Scroll down to External Flash Function Setting
Hot the Set Button
Scroll to Flash Mode
From here you can choose Manual Flash, Multi Flash or E-TTl II. Choose Manual Flash.
Scroll down to Flash Output. Doing so will change the output power of the flash.
You can scroll back and forth through the flash power setting to choose one that works for you. It’s between 1/2 (full power) and 1/16th or 1/32nd power, I believe. This overrides the flash output regardless of other flash settings.
If you set the setting to 1/1, you can then change the flash setting on the flash LCD panel. Otherwise with other settings, you can’t change the power output without going through these setting on the camera itself.
When you turn your camera off, the setting is saved in the cameras memory and remains the same until you go back in to change it in the camera menu again later.
The idea here is that if you can’t change the camera settings, change the flash setting to try to compensate.
Here’s another issue that might be the cause of the problem more directly:
Your camera will always try to expose for the background and use the flash to fill-in the light for the foreground. I suggest reading a bit more on how flashes work (fill flash, independent exposure of foreground and background). It's confusing in the beginning, but without it will be hard to understand what your flash and camera will try to do in which mode/situation.
You're probably using P-mode since you commented on a video about p Mode, and when doing so, it keeps the minimum shutter speed at 1/60th of a second. In AV or TV or M mode you can use longer shutter speeds.
The zoom range: remember the 1.6 crop factor.
Try these articles for more info:
This is not a bad introduction: digital-photography-school.com/an-introduction-to-external-flash-units it also has a follow up post.
This one is pretty good to start with as well: www.planetneil.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/
If your flash is set to E-TTL mode:
If you are using a flash the camera measures the amount of flash you need to correctly expose your foreground (E-TTL). This is independent of your camera exposure. You can adjust this amount with flash exposure compensation. The normal exposure (combination of Aperture and shutter speed for a given ISO) and exposure compensation apply to the background.
A bit about P-mode:
In P-mode normally the camera chooses Aperture and shutter speed to correctly expose for the background. But, if in order to do that, it needs a larger aperture than available on your lens, or a longer shutter speed than 1/60th of a second, the camera keeps your shutter speed up so that you don't end up with blurry images from camera shake or subject movement. The foreground will be correctly exposed using the flash, the background might be underexposed (i.e. like pictures from P&S with flash usually look).
So, a lower shutter speed than 1/60th of a second is not possible. If you want to bring the shutter speed up in P-mode, your only option is to use higher ISO. If you are already using ISO 1600 and you still want to bring the shutter speed up (and accept the noise that goes with higher ISO) you can always emulate ISO 3200 by using 1 stop of negative exposure compensation and then recovering one stop in DPP if you are using raw.
Have you already tried Av, Tv or M? In those modes shutter speeds will go longer (lower) than 1/60th of a second.
In Av or Tv mode you might then end up with longer shutter speeds than you might want. You can then use the regular exposure compensation to control the exposure. Meaning: 1 stop of negative exposure compensation will bring your shutter speed up with one stop.
I find it most practical to work with M-mode if I'm using the flash in the dark.
You can also start with these settings:
Use M mode on the camera, and make your own choices for aperture and shutter speed. Try 1/200th, f/8, and E-TTL on the flash, play with the flash exposure compensation to see what you get.
Start with some of this and let me know how it goes.
@@jimcostafilms Jim, thanks for taking so much time to compose this very informative explanation into the P mode on my T2i. As a retired photo-finishing engineer, my career focused on wet processing in the darkroom. Now, I'm trying to get up to speed on being able to make pleasing photos. I'm focusing now on trying to become fluid in rapidly changing photo shoots. Being able to quickly mix ambient and flash without having to fiddle much with my equipment and loose those moments of opportunity. I shot my youngest son's wedding and it turned out pretty good. Wedding photography is very demanding and stressful; you need to be able to rapidly adjust to ever changing lighting conditions. I am going to practice using your suggestions above. I thought using Manual mode combined with auto iso would be interesting to try. However, I noticed that if I wanted to deliberately underexpose the ambient exposure by 1 stop by using exposure compensation, the T2i only allows bracketing. Thanks again Jim for taking so much of your time out of your busy schedule to help me. My oldest son is getting married soon and want to be able to confidently capture the moments. Cheers, Bob
@@bobclarie I remember developing my own B&W film. Makes me sound old. It was a lifetime ago.
Becoming, “fluid in rapidly changing photo shoots” takes a ton of practice. It’s an ambitious goal, but is achievable. Learning to be, “able to quickly mix ambient and flash without having to fiddle much with my equipment and loose those moments of opportunity” is basically the goal of every photographer in any genre. I would suggest you walk around at different times of the day and shoot whatever you see. Change settings to get a feel for what the images look like with various settings without the pressure of a live event till you feel confident in your setting “quick change” abilities.
This seems basic, but it will implant settings in your mind and make it possible to make those needed changes on the fly when doing an important shoot. I still do this and I’ve been shooting since I was a kid in the 70s. If you can successfully shoot street photography, you will be prepared for weddings.
My IG is full of such images from just walking around Europe a couple months ago.
instagram.com/jimcostafilms/?hl=en
There’s plenty of tutorials on YT if you search “on camera flash for weddings.” I haven’t made such a tutorial, but here’s 80+ photo tutorials to get you started that I’ve put together:
czcams.com/video/wBzt8iVch9k/video.html
This is what Canon says about bracketing on your camera: sg.canon/en/support/8200744400
Regarding exposure compensation on your camera, remember, you can’t use it on Auto, Manual, or any of the Scene Modes. Use Program Mode.
Hit the Quick Menu Button.
Use the arrows to select the Exposure Compensation.
Then use the Main Dial to select the Exposure Compensation.
Otherwise use the AV button.
Hold it down and simultaneously roll the Main Dial.
Release the AV button and it is set. There’s your first quick setting change tip.
As a work around to the issue of exposure compensation & bracketing, try this:
Use Aperture Priority and Auto ISO.
Set the F-stop. The shutter speed would depend on the length of the focal length of the lens (the camera will pick the shutter speed).
Then change the Exposure Compensation.
I’m not guaranteeing this will work, but it might.
Send me your IG off the wedding pics and I’ll check it out.
@@jimcostafilms Thanks again for your detailed information and suggestions. I like the AV mode idea; that work fine. Will continue experimenting with your suggestions in the field. Years ago, while working in a professional studio, I used the Hasselblad 500C. Remember how the shutter speed and f stop rings were locked together and you could rotate them together and keep the same ambient exposure; those were the days. Wish there was a way to do this on my Canon cameras, with one twist of the dial. You didn't have to worry about flash sync since the lens had a leaf shutter. Anyway, I digress . . . Just picked up a Canon M50 mkii with the 15 - 45 kit lens. So far, I'm really liking the system. Plus, with an adapter, I can use my EF-S lenses and my Speedlites. Take Care, I'll. " keep on shooting " Bob
@@bobclarie You can't adjust the two settings together and control them simultaneously like the Hasselblad. The closest you can do is to lock the two settings and then mess with the ISO, but that's not really the same thing. You'd have to set each combination one at a time separately, take a shot and then change them again individually, take another shot and on and on.
I've got it. Thanks
I appreciate you tuning in. If you have any questions, please let me know. I'm happy to try to help answer them for you.
@@jimcostafilms At the grand old age of 60 and not owning a camera since my father gave me a Pentax film camera 52 years ago, I have just purchased an old Canon 40D and started a new hobby. I find your videos most helpful. Thank you.
@@dogzero1 Here's the manual for your amera: www.the-digital-picture.com/owners-manuals/canon-eos-40d-manual.pdf
@@jimcostafilms Thank you. My camera came with the owners manual. But always nice to have it on my PC.
I mostly use aperture mode,but I have tried manual,shutter priority modes.
There's nothing at all wrong with letting the camera set the shutter speed for you.
Thanks for the feedback.
@@gemstyxwalls1419 I'm happy to answer any technical questions you have anytime.
Am using Nikon d5200 but is failing to shoot properly on P the shutter speed is very slow how may I change it
Hmmm…Assuming there’s not an issue with the camera itself, you might be setting the ISO wrong and that is throwing off the shutter speed.
Quick explanation of Program Mode:
In this mode, the camera automatically adjusts shutter speed and aperture for optimal exposure in most situations. This mode is recommended for snapshots and other situations in which you want to leave the camera in charge of shutter speed and aperture.
01. Rotate the mode dial to P.
02. Choosing a Combination of Shutter Speed and Aperture
Although the shutter speed and aperture chosen by the camera will produce optimal results, you can also choose from other combinations that will produce the same exposure (“flexible program”).
Rotate the main command dial right for large apertures (low f-numbers) that blur background details or fast shutter speeds that “freeze” motion.
Rotate the dial left for small apertures (high f-numbers) that increase depth of field or slow shutter speeds that blur motion. "*" is displayed while flexible program is in effect.
03. Restoring Default Shutter Speed and Aperture Settings
To restore default shutter speed and aperture settings, rotate the main command dial until "*" is no longer displayed or turn the camera off. The default shutter speed and aperture is automatically restored when the camera enters standby mode.
Detailed explanation of Program Mode:
There is a reason that Program mode is only one click away from the automatic modes: With respect to apertures and shutter speeds, the camera is doing most of the thinking for you. So, if that is the case, why even bother with Program mode?
First, let me say that I rarely use Program mode, because it just doesn’t give as much control over the image-making process as the other professional modes. On occasion, however, it comes in handy; for instance, when I am shooting in widely changing lighting conditions and don’t have the time to think through all of my options, or when I’m not very concerned with having ultimate control of the scene.
When to Use Program (P) Mode Instead of the Automatic Scene Modes
• When shooting in a casual environment where quick adjustments are needed
• When you want more control over the ISO
• When you want to make corrections to the white balance
• When you want to change shutter speeds or the aperture to achieve a specific result
In Program mode, you can choose which ISO you would like the camera to base its exposure on. The lower the ISO number, the better the quality of our photographs, but the less light sensitive the camera becomes. It’s a balancing act, with the main goal always being to keep the ISO as low as possible-too low an ISO, and we will get camera shake in our images from a long shutter speed; too high an ISO, and we will have an unacceptable amount of digital noise.
It might be helpful if you know where your starting points should be for your ISO settings. The first thing you should always try to do is use the lowest possible ISO setting. That being said, here are good starting points for your ISO settings:
• 100: Bright, sunny day
• 200: Hazy or outdoor shade on a sunny day
• 400: Indoor lighting at night or cloudy conditions outside
• 800: Late-night, low-light conditions or sporting arenas at night
These are just suggestions, and your ISO selection will depend on a number of factors that will be discussed later in the book. You might have to push your ISO even higher as needed, but at least now you know where to start.
Go ahead and select ISO 400 to provide enough sensitivity for shadows while allowing the camera to use shutter speeds that are fast enough to stop motion.
With the ISO selected, make use of the other controls built into Program mode. By rotating the Command dial, you have the ability to shift the program settings. Remember, your camera is using the internal meter to pick what it believes are suitable exposure values, but sometimes it doesn’t know what it’s looking at and how you want those values applied. With the program shift, you can influence what the shot will look like. Do you need faster shutter speeds in order to stop the action? Just turn the Command dial to the right. Do you want a smaller aperture so that you get a narrow depth of field? Then turn the dial to the left until you get the desired aperture. The camera shifts the shutter speed and aperture accordingly in order to get a proper exposure, and you will get the benefit of your choice as a result. Just keep in mind that the camera is always trying to maintain the right exposure at every setting, and so the available light and the maximum and minimum aperture values of the attached lens will limit the range of shutter speeds at a given ISO value.
You will also notice that a small star will appear above the letter P in the viewfinder and the rear display if you rotate the Command dial. This star is an indication that you modified the exposure from the one the camera chose. To go back to the default Program exposure, simply turn the dial until the star goes away or switch to a different mode and then back to Program mode again.
Here’s set up the camera for Program mode and see how we can make all of this come together.
Setting Up and Shooting in Program Mode
1 Turn your camera on and then turn the Command dial to align the P with the indicator line.
2 Select your ISO by pressing the i button on the back of the camera.
3 Press up or down on the Multi-selector to highlight the ISO option, then select OK.
4 Press down on the Multi-selector to select the desired ISO setting and then press OK to lock in the change.
5 Point the camera at your subject and then activate the camera meter by depressing the shutter button halfway.
6 View the exposure information in the bottom of the viewfinder or by looking at the display panel on the back of the camera.
7 While the meter is activated, use your thumb to roll the Command dial left and right to see the changed exposure values.
8 Select the exposure that is right for you and start clicking. (Don’t worry if you aren’t sure what the right exposure is.
Is it true on film cameras that on film cameras you have to set the iso to match the film ur using?
That is correct, yes.
With film cameras there is also an ISO setting on the camera and generally you would need to set this to match the ISO speed of the film you are using. You can create different effects with a film camera by not matching the ISO setting on the camera to the film, but the general rule is to have the two speeds match.
ISO is the film sensitivity, of course. It's a number, more common ISOs are 100 and 400. The higher the ISO, the higher the film sensitivity and the larger the film-grain size. If you plan to shoot indoors in low light conditions, film ISOs of 400, 800, or even 1600 are preferred.
ISO on a film camera is set by the film that you load into it. If you load ISO 400 film, then your camera is at a nominal 400 ISO.
Many film cameras have an ISO dial, but this is only to calibrate the light meter, it doesn’t affect the exposure in the same way that changing ISO on a digital camera does.
If you understand how exposure is calculated, you can ‘adjust’ the ISO by shooting it at a different speed to the box ISO. You could shoot your ISO 400 film as if it were ISO 200 for example, and you’d be one stop overexposed. Deliberately overexposing negative film allows you to gather more shadow detail without losing highlights.
You might also shoot your film as if it were a higher rating and then ‘push’ it in development. This means overdeveloping to compensate for underexposure. Commonly this is done when in very low-light situations but it has drawbacks - it has the greatest effect on highlights and almost no effect on shadows, so the image will be extremely contrasty. It may also increase grain by quite a bit too.
@@jimcostafilms I also have the canon rebel 2000 which is a film camera and I put it on the P do I just point and shoot?
@@KywaunJackson Well, kind of, but not exactly. There’s a difference between P mode on film cameras and digital camera.
On your camera, Program mode is marked by 'P' on your camera's mode dial and is one of the Creative Zone modes, though one with the least control over your exposure settings. In program mode the camera selects and sets both the shutter speed and the aperture.
P mode will allow you to decide if the flash is needed for the shot you want. Control your camera's sensitivity to light: When you need a low shutter speed to avoid a blurry image but your shot needs more light, P mode allows you to adjust the ISO setting for the right balance.
On DSLRs, Program mode is marked by ‘P’ on your camera’s mode dial and is one of the Creative Zone modes, though one with the least control over your exposure settings.
In program mode the camera selects and sets both the shutter speed and the aperture. For any given brightness of light, the camera has been programmed to set a specific combination of shutter speed and aperture.
In low light, for example, the camera might set 1/30 second and f4. In bright light it might set 1/500 second and f11.
At first sight, this appears similar to the basic zone Full Auto setting. However, there are differences.
Unlike Full Auto (green square) mode, program mode lets you set a range of different camera functions, including ISO value, white balance, colour space, focus mode, metering mode, exposure compensation and flash control. Full Auto is a point-and-shoot mode. Program mode is the thinking photographer’s Full Auto.
Program shift
An often overlooked and somewhat hidden feature of program mode is program shift.
This is what really moves program mode into the Creative zone. This feature allows to vary the shutter speed and aperture values, whilst keeping the exposure the same.
Program shift is a feature available within program (P) mode, but one that’s often overlooked. It’s this feature that really moves program mode into the Creative zone as it gives you greater control over the settings that the camera chooses automatically.
First, set program mode and aim your camera at the subject. Now apply partial pressure to the shutter button. This will switch on the information panel along the bottom of the viewfinder. The selected shutter speed and aperture will be shown.
While the information remains visible, turn the main dial. The shutter speed and aperture values will change - but the actual exposure will stay the same.
For example, if the original settings are 1/60 second and f5.6, turning the dial clockwise until the shutter speed is 1/125 second will also adjust the aperture to f4. Turning the dial anti-clockwise until the shutter speed is 1/30 second will adjust the aperture to f8. All of these shutter speed and aperture combinations will give the same overall exposure.
Program shift allows you to select either the shutter speed or the aperture, without switching the shooting mode. But there are some disadvantages.
First, the shutter speed and aperture revert to their original settings after each exposure. Second, program shift does not work with flash. And watch the shutter speed as you adjust the aperture - you might need a tripod at slow speeds.
Thanks for the such clear guides about P mode. What the star up to the right of P ( P* ) means ?
This star is an indication that you modified the exposure from the one the camera chose.
@@jimcostafilms yes but I see that there is only one combination of aperture and time with just the P sign ( without the * ). I thought that the use of the p mode allows me to choose within many pairs ( example f8 + 1/125" , alternatively f5.6 + 1/250 ...etc ). Why only one of the apert/time pairs are the optimum ? Chosing a pair indicating P* will get a wrong image concerning the amount of light ?
@@panagiotisdimisianos9456 Yes, using Program (P) Mode allows you to manually make other changes depending on the look you're going for int he image. The Star (*) appears when you change the settings from what the camera selects. The camera will select what it thinks is the best exposure to average out the exposure to Middle Gray (18% Gray). That is what the camera thinks is optimum. That will work fine often, but may not be what you want for your exposure. For example, if you subject is inside near an open window on a bright sunny day, the camera will assume you're exposing for the window light. This will likely make the image subject under exposed. As such, you'll likely want to make changes from the cameras selection so that the window might be a little blown out, but the interior subject will be properly exposed. Another example based on your settings listed in your question might be where you want to change the depth of field from what the camera thinks. You might want a huge depth of field so you'll change your F/Stop to F/16 or F/22 and this, in turn will mean that your exposure length might go from 1/125th to 1/30th or 1/15th second to compensate. To get a better handle on it, check out this video on the exposure triangle. czcams.com/video/XEU2bz0ethI/video.html. I always recommend trusting the camera to choose for you the first time by taking a test shot and them making your own adjustments after viewing the image the camera thinks you want to take.
@@jimcostafilms thank you very much Jim !!! I understand now
@@panagiotisdimisianos9456 I'm happy to help.
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Thanks for watching!
@@jimcostafilms I subscribed to your channel and look forward to seeing more in the future.😍👍
@@VRShanghainese I appreciate that. new videos Wednesdays, Noon, PST.
@@jimcostafilms Thank you for your video.❤️👍
Hello, thank you fo this very informative video. Please, where can I find your free guide you mention in the video? It seems there is no link in the description. Excuse me if I’m wrong...
Many thanks!
Right here: jimcostafilms.lpages.co/dslr-mirrorless-camera-video-cheat-sheet/ I'm currently updating it to an ebook with a lot more information (still free), but it's not ready for release yet. It's about 70 pages now and could get up to 100 when done. I plan to send out an email to everyone who gets my old one with a link to download the new one when it's completed.
@@jimcostafilms Thank you very much for your reply and for the good news about the new update on ebook! I'm looking forward to read it!
Just to let you know, I just tried the above link you sent, it opens and it lets me enter my email address. But after clicking the "send me the guide" button nothing happens, I mean I received no email yet.
I also entered a second different email address using two different browsers but still the same result.. any suggestions? thank you!
@@robertolotti2669 I'll send it out momentarily.
I've got it.
I'm glad you found the info helpful.Thanks for tuning in.
@@jimcostafilms p is awesome! I use auto mode for quick on the go shots, and when I want to change the iso limit and my focus area I can switch to P super fast, it's awesome.
@@blockbusterlatefees7713 Post your portfolio link so my audience can check out your work.
Sir! My mom just passed away, and we will have her funeral next week. My question is what should I set up my camera Canon R3 with Gordox flash, first is WB, should I set up Auto BW or White Balance? or Flash WB? Second, what mode should I use P mode or A mode? Thank you Sir.
See if this helps: czcams.com/video/CC132RF-HC0/video.html OR THIS: cam.start.canon/hy/C010/manual/html/UG-03_Shooting-1_0130.html
I always use manual mode
Great! That give you full control over your image.
You posed the question why use P mode when you can already control the settings in Aperture and Shutter priority mode yet you didn't really answer the question why but instead state if one prefer the camera to do the heavy lifting. The camera already does the heavy lifting in AP and SP modes. I am right back where I started not knowing the deference between PM and SM/AM.
1/2 You didn’t mention what kind of camera body you are using or what your skill level is so I’ll provide some info that might be basic to you, but ‘ll do my best to answer your question & review modes.
P = Program Mode
A or AV = Aperture Priority
S or TV = Shutter Priority
M - Manual Mode
Firstly, there’s not one mode you should always use. Don’t think you should always use manual mode. All the modes have advantages and disadvantages depending on what you’re photographing and how much time you have.
Remember the goal is to capture great moments and the camera is just the tool. You don’t want to be spending all your time thinking about technical stuff that you miss moments.
Auto mode usually works fine in easy lighting situations. For example, when the sun is behind you, the photographer, illuminating the subject. It doesn’t work so well in difficult lighting situations such as backlighting. When the sun is setting behind your subject they will usually be too dark (silhouetted).
The other issue with Auto mode is you usually don’t get consistency. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn’t.
The next step up is the scene modes. In the scene modes, you are telling the camera what you are photographing and the camera will choose the best default settings for that subject. This isn’t always the case for every shooting situation, but it is a good place to start. Take a couple test shots first to see what looks best when shooting in various scenes modes.
For example, if you’re taking a portrait you usually want the background blurry so all the attention is on the person you are photographing. If you choose the portrait scene mode the camera is likely to choose the best settings to give you that blur.
If you’re photographing a landscape you can select this scene mode by finding the mountain icon. Usually when we take a landscape photo we want both the foreground and the background sharp. In this scene mode, the camera is likely to choose the best default settings to give you this sharpness.
In summary scene modes are fully automatic so there’s no guarantee you will get exactly what you want but you are more likely to get a better result than the general Auto because you are telling the camera what you are photographing.
P mode or Program Mode is a fantastic mode when you don’t have time to think. It’s mostly (but not fully) automatic. Just point and shoot, but you’ve got more control than Auto or Scene Modes. One of the great things you can control in P mode is the exposure compensation to make your next photo brighter or darker. This is designated by plus or minus button. On some Canon cameras, you need to press the Q button first. By pressing the plus or minus button and rotating the dial you can add or take light from your next image.
In P mode, you can also control your flash and choose your focus mode and points.
A or AV mode stands for Aperture Priority. This is a great mode that a lot of professional photographers will use as their ‘go to mode’ when photographing stationary subjects because you can control how blurry or sharp the background is.
In this mode you control the Aperture or F number which is a hole in the lens that can get bigger or smaller. This controls how much light gets through. Just like your eye is an aperture and can get bigger or smaller depending on how bright it is.
By adjusting this aperture I change how blurry or sharp the background and foreground of the image is. If I’m taking a portrait and I want the background to be blurry I can choose a small F number and I get a small area sharp.
If I’m doing a landscape photo I’ll choose a big F number and I get a big area sharp.
S or TV mode stands for Shutter priority and this is a great mode for photographing moving subjects.
Most cameras allow you to choose a shutter speed between 1/4000 of a second and 30 seconds.
If you choose a fast shutter speed 1/1000 second you will freeze action. If you choose a slow shutter speed you will create motion blur.
Bird photographers and sports photographers usually choose a fast shutter speed to freeze their subject.
Landscape photographers may want to get that silky water effect so will often choose a slow shutter speed and use a tripod.
Playing around with different shutter speeds is a great way to get creative images.
Manual mode is my go to mode for night photography.
First, I choose an ISO which is the -cameras sensitivity to light. If I’m using a tripod I can choose a low ISO. Then I choose my aperture. Then I adjust my shutter speed to get a correct exposure.
Specific Modes and how they work:
P Mode, Program Auto, Program Mode = Panic Mode.
OK, it doesn’t really stand for panic, but it can be thought of that way.
When this mode is selected, the camera automatically sets the shutter speed and aperture to achieve what it believes is the best possible exposure for the metering information of whatever scene the photographer has framed. This is almost like using a simple point-and-shoot camera in that almost every setting on the camera is controlled by the camera itself. I say “almost” because this mode will not automatically deploy your built-in flash, nor will it change your ISO or color space or other more specific settings. Later we will discuss an even more comprehensive automatic mode that many cameras offer.
Also, many manufacturers offer a Program Flexible/Shift (P* or Ps) mode where the photographer can manually select a combination of shutter-speed and aperture options. You can use this shifted mode to tweak your aperture or shutter speed a predetermined amount while remaining in the Program mode. How you shift the aperture or shutter speed settings, or if you can shift them while in Program mode, is camera make/model specific.
Aperture Priority Mode (A / Av):
The Aperture Priority mode allows the photographer to set a specific aperture while allowing the camera to calculate the proper exposure and assign an appropriate shutter speed. This allows the photographer to change aperture, and therefore change the depth of field of the image, while the camera does the necessary calculations to automatically set your shutter speed. As you increase the opening of the aperture (lower f/stop numbers), you will get a higher shutter speed to compensate for the increase of light coming through the lens. Make the aperture smaller, the camera will give you a longer-duration shutter speed.
This is the preferred mode for a lot of photographers who want to not only maintain consistent depth of field, but who also might want the camera to shoot through their lens’s best performing aperture(s).
Just like the Program Shift mode, the way you change your aperture is accomplished differently on cameras from different manufacturers. On some cameras, the aperture is selected through a dial on the camera. Some have you select the aperture by turning a ring on the lens. Grab your manual to find out how to make these adjustments on your camera, if you haven’t done so already.
Shutter Priority Mode (S / Tv):
This is the opposite of the Aperture Priority mode. When you select this mode, you control the shutter speed and the camera controls the aperture. Again, the end result is that the camera is looking for a balanced exposure by assigning an aperture to your chosen shutter speed.
This allows the photographer to reduce the duration that the shutter is open, to freeze fast-moving action, or conversely, leave the shutter open longer to allow blur and movement to appear in the frame. Sports photographers will often use Shutter Priority mode to let the camera know they are looking to freeze action.
Shutter speed is likely adjusted by a rotary dial on the camera, or via a dedicated shutter speed selector dial, depending on the type of camera you are using.
Manual Mode (M):
The camera’s manual mode takes you back to the early days of photography, before computer intervention, when the photographer selected a combination of shutter speed and aperture to get the desired exposure.
This is likely the most intimidating mode of the group and, therefore, likely used less than its sister modes. However, there are scenarios where having full control is necessary to get the image that you desire. When doing night photography, I am often shooting in Manual mode as the camera’s meter cannot always handle extreme darkness. And, yes, there are photographers who use this mode exclusively.
Mode Limits:
One thing to note is that these modes have limitations. On a very bright day, you might want to make a photograph with shallow depth of field. For example, you select Aperture Priority mode because you want to open the aperture up to its maximum to get the shallowest depth of field possible. However, it is bright out and your camera’s shutter cannot open and close fast enough to produce a balanced exposure. You may get a flashing aperture value or blinking “Hi” warning that indicates that your image will be overexposed.
Contrarily, you want to freeze the action of a child blowing out the candles of a birthday cake. However, someone turned off the lights for the hearty rendition of “Happy Birthday” and you have dialed in 1/4000 of a second as your shutter speed on Shutter Priority mode. The camera reacts by opening the aperture to its maximum size, but it cannot simply let in sufficient light to get a proper exposure, leaving you with a “Lo” or “Low” warning, or flashing shutter speed value indicating a possible underexposure of the frame.
Again, refer to your owner’s manual to see how your camera indicates a possible over- or underexposure situation because every shooting situation, in fact, every singe individual shot, is unique and my require changes to produce the best images.
2/2 Special Modes:
Depending on the make and model of your camera, there may be a host of additional modes from which you may choose. I will discuss them briefly here, but intentionally not get too far into the weeds, as these modes vary depending on the make and model of your camera. Some of these modes will change color settings, sharpness, noise reduction, image quality and more. Check your manual to see what is happening inside your particular camera if you are using these modes.
Full Automatic Mode (Green Rectangle / Camera Silhouette / AUTO/ iAUTO):
Do not be confused, but this mode differs greatly from the Program Auto mode described above. This is the mode that does everything automatically for you, aside from aiming the camera and pressing the button to take an image. You get all the computer power behind the Program Auto mode with automatic aperture and shutter speed selection, but you will also, depending on the make and model, get automatic pop-up flash (if the camera has a flash), automatic selection of the ISO setting, automatic white balance, and more. If you do not want to think of anything beyond where you are pointing your camera and your composition, this is the mode for you.
Flash Off / Auto Flash Off Mode:
This is the same as the Full Automatic Mode, but the flash is disabled so that it will not fire in an environment where you would not want to pop off a flash bulb, such as a museum or other light-sensitive setting. Also, depending on the image, you simply might not want to have the stark lighting effect that a flash may produce.
Portrait Mode:
This is similar to selecting Aperture Priority and opening your aperture to get shallower depth of field. However, depending on the camera, it may also enhance skin tones and soften skin texture automatically.
Night Portrait Mode:
This mode should fire off the flash while keeping a slower shutter speed that allows background lighting to remain in the scene.
Landscape Mode:
This mode generally maximizes your depth of field and it may even make the scene’s colors more vibrant.
Sports Mode:
Sports mode cranks up your shutter speed in an attempt to freeze action. Usually, it will disable the flash as well. Of all the specialty modes available, this one is my favorite for any fast moving scene.
Macro Mode:
For close-up photography, the camera will either open the aperture to give the image very shallow depth of field or narrow the aperture for the opposite effect. Check your manual to see exactly what your camera does when you select this mode.
Custom Modes:
Several manufacturers and cameras offer custom modes that allow you to pre-assign different shooting options to a custom mode setting. What is customizable varies widely between manufacturers, so, if interested in setting up a Custom Mode, break out your manual and see what variables your particular camera allows you to set.
@jimcostafilms Thanks for the reply, I use the Sony a7iv and mostly use the aperture priority mode and thank you for your response, I am quite familiar with most of the features however I am always in learning. I usually use auto mode when it's too dark to see the settings on the buttons as I am still getting familiar with where they are. I use reading glasses and without them while shooting leaves me handicap.
@@iagle Use these links to get more info on your cameras modes: www.kenrockwell.com/sony/a7-iv-users-guide.htm or helpguide.sony.net/gbmig/44879441/v1/en/contents/TP0000301840.html
@jimcostafilms The P mode on the Sony a7iv seems a little redundant, hence my confusion, and it's not just me as I discovered several blogs struggling to understand its purpose on modern cameras The reason is that the auto mode does most of what the P function does with a few exceptions, so I guess the P mode is more of a semi-auto mode if I understand it correctly.
I only own 2 lenses for the Sony a7iv the Sony 24mm/105mm/F4
and the Sony 20mm/F1.8 prime is a perfect setup to use the P mode, and I am sure Sony has the option to save presets, which was what I had originally thought the P mode was for.
I thought it was pierogie mode. For me it inserts pierogies into every shot.
I guess a camera mode could be confused for filled dumplings...
Oh my God dude. You know your stuff. You are obviously a great photographer. But pleeeeeeese get to the point.
I changed that on the most recent tutorials. Thanks for tuning in.
@@jimcostafilms thanks for great videos.
@@minkymott Much appreciated.
@@jimcostafilms you are very welcome. I learn from them.
Dislike because of almost 3 minute intro
I can't argue with that. I've listened to my viewers who have made similar comments and have since changed the intro so I get to the info much faster on newer videos. This one is older.