I appreciate this technical detail. Sandia National Laboratory is researching lithium batteries in depth and they have already figured out what causes some major degradation. High amp draw and running them to too low of voltage.
Great video! I have a question that might make for an interesting video if it hasn't been discussed before, How are brushless motors able to work with so many amps as claimed by the manufacturer for the esc or motor if they typically use 12 guage which can only do around 20 to 35 amps at less that a couple feet of distance? the amperage my motor claims it takes is 60 amps constant which is way more than 12 guage and the motor has 13 guage wire. A separate smaller question if you have the time. If a brushless motor is a "sequence" of pulses between three wires how does higher voltage enable it able to go faster if it is a timed sequence unlike a brushed motors mechanical timing, does it speed up the timing in the esc essentially like overclocking it? Thanks for your time!
I always wondered the same thing…… My straight away boats can pull 700 amps on a burst with a 8mm wire. ( I use German high strand count wire it’s pretty much a 8ga wire. ) If you tried using this wire for a AC welder it would fry so how come it can handle the dc voltage of our Rc. This makes for some good reading as I researched it years ago. Would like to see a video as well……..
Hello, thanks for the comment. This question about wire gauge vs current capacity has been asked several times and is in queue. I will see if I can bump this video topic forward. As for your second question, rotational speed I'll give it a try here. When it comes to a brushed motor and brushless motor, they both work the same. (electrical vs mechanical commutation) Voltage controls the speed and we can see that when we dig more in to the Back EMF equation. Additionally, both mechanical and electrical timing work in the same way as well. You can't speed up the motor by trying to accelerate the mechanical timing of a brushed motor. Same idea applies for our brushless setup. Trying to fire a phase in a fraction of a second earlier will not speed up the motor infinitely, in fact it will cause the motor to get out of sync with the ESC. What does happen is the ESC sends out a higher voltage (PWM avg) forcing the motor to accelerate. The brushless ESC must figure out the actual new speed of the motor and adjust the electrical timed pulses by reading the back EMF. Both brushed and brushless motors are a carefully timed sequence of events. And in both brushed and brushless, the timing of each pulse can not accelerate the motor.
Thanks for a lot of information that makes it easier to understand how to setup and use our RC equipment efficiently and safely I acquired a 'bucket' full of assorted equipment at a sale and I would like to use a couple of motors for my airplanes, but the only info I can find on them is what is printed on the can. How can I figure out what voltage and escapement to use? The only info on the motor is A2212/10T. 1400kv, no brand name. The quality of the motor seems to be quite good and unused
I want to run NiMH batteries in a RC car. If I disable the Lipo low voltage Cutoff can I use NiMH batteries. I have a Spectrum programmer and this setting is the only way to do this. Please will someone tell me.
What about a 6s 5100mAh battery? I set my lipo alarm to 3.10 and when my alarm goes off after what seems to be a 15 minute drive I bring the battery inside to charge and it's reading 4.08 or so per cell. Why is my alarm going off so soon? Is it possibly inaccurate? Should I use the esc instead? It's a Shogun XP.
What kinda of voltages do you recommend for a 2s in say a remote controller? I’m converting my flysky gt5 to lipo and I know with nmh batteries is starts to chime at 4.45
One question. Why do l IPO chargers say they can discharge and allow you too select say 3A but when you started to discharge, they only discharge around .2 or .4 depending on charger. Battery i was using a reference was 1300mah 100c 5s l IPO battery.
What might cause battery to have a weak cell? It happens to all of my batteries after just 2 - 4 months 🙁 I'm thinking about 3 things but reason might be different as well: 1. Defective charger, 2. I pull too much power from batteries, 3. I discharge them too much. What reason could it be, what you think? I know all Lipo rules about charging, storage... I set my cut-off to the highest possible. When I come back home I always check cell voltages, it is between 3.4 & 3.5 V/cell (while battery is healthy) I use good batteries: Gens ace 50c, Turnigy Graphene Panther 75c, CNHL G+plus 70c ⚡
@@RCexplained First it starts to discharge faster - example of 4s voltages after run: 3.68 3.67 3.66 3.33 After some time it is also charging faster than other cells ⚡
You say the absolute minimum V/cell is 3.00V with no load. So does that mean when highly loaded it's ok to set the cutoff voltage lower than 3.00V, say 2.8V or even lower as the cells will recover to over 3.00V when unloaded?
Yes, but this is very risky. example -how do you know 2.80v/cell will work for your setup. Also, running your battery down below 15-20% capacity already reduces maximum lifespan. Not ideal to spend time at a lower voltage and even pushing it so its literally 3.00v at the end of a run. Your pack is not going to like you if you do this once let alone often.
Question for you - is it true that aggressively discharging LiPo batteries will reduce their IR value? (Or do they just read a lower IR value during a concurrent high-current discharge cycle?)
Discharging a LiPo causes them to heat up depending on how aggressive the rate is. Higher temperatures lead to lower IR's. Increased temps do also lead to lost lifespan.
@@RCexplained that makes sense. So the IR is lower while the battery is hot. I keep seeing these guys looking for the old dischargers that fast discharge the nicads, and they’re saying aggressively cycling their LiPos on there makes them perform better for peak power. I’ve been working with LiPo batteries in power wall and backup power situations, so the idea of cycling high-current discharges on purpose had my brain going, buut nooooooo!!! Haha 😂
Hands down the best channel to learn something about the rc-hobby.
Very much appreciated!
Wow, thanks!
I appreciate this technical detail. Sandia National Laboratory is researching lithium batteries in depth and they have already figured out what causes some major degradation. High amp draw and running them to too low of voltage.
Nice looking anvil ☺️
Yet another great video from you! Thanks for always putting out such informative videos!
So nice of you
Great video!
I have a question that might make for an interesting video if it hasn't been discussed before, How are brushless motors able to work with so many amps as claimed by the manufacturer for the esc or motor if they typically use 12 guage which can only do around 20 to 35 amps at less that a couple feet of distance? the amperage my motor claims it takes is 60 amps constant which is way more than 12 guage and the motor has 13 guage wire.
A separate smaller question if you have the time. If a brushless motor is a "sequence" of pulses between three wires how does higher voltage enable it able to go faster if it is a timed sequence unlike a brushed motors mechanical timing, does it speed up the timing in the esc essentially like overclocking it?
Thanks for your time!
I always wondered the same thing…… My straight away boats can pull 700 amps on a burst with a 8mm wire. ( I use German high strand count wire it’s pretty much a 8ga wire. ) If you tried using this wire for a AC welder it would fry so how come it can handle the dc voltage of our Rc. This makes for some good reading as I researched it years ago. Would like to see a video as well……..
Hello, thanks for the comment. This question about wire gauge vs current capacity has been asked several times and is in queue. I will see if I can bump this video topic forward.
As for your second question, rotational speed I'll give it a try here. When it comes to a brushed motor and brushless motor, they both work the same. (electrical vs mechanical commutation) Voltage controls the speed and we can see that when we dig more in to the Back EMF equation. Additionally, both mechanical and electrical timing work in the same way as well. You can't speed up the motor by trying to accelerate the mechanical timing of a brushed motor. Same idea applies for our brushless setup. Trying to fire a phase in a fraction of a second earlier will not speed up the motor infinitely, in fact it will cause the motor to get out of sync with the ESC. What does happen is the ESC sends out a higher voltage (PWM avg) forcing the motor to accelerate. The brushless ESC must figure out the actual new speed of the motor and adjust the electrical timed pulses by reading the back EMF. Both brushed and brushless motors are a carefully timed sequence of events. And in both brushed and brushless, the timing of each pulse can not accelerate the motor.
@@RCexplained Thanks so much! That question always plauged me when trying to figure that out lol.
And I'm looking forward to the video!
5s drone racing on 1950 kv motor, 1/10 b64 carpet racing, 1/8 truggy, and 1/7 arrma infraction
Sounds great!
Thanks for a lot of information that makes it easier to understand how to setup and use our RC equipment efficiently and safely
I acquired a 'bucket' full of assorted equipment at a sale and I would like to use a couple of motors for my airplanes, but the only info I can find on them is what is printed on the can. How can I figure out what voltage and escapement to use? The only info on the motor is A2212/10T. 1400kv, no brand name. The quality of the motor seems to be quite good and unused
Really love all your videos!!!
Glad you like them!
Thank u for a great vid ryan.
Glad you enjoyed it
I want to run NiMH batteries in a RC car. If I disable the Lipo low voltage Cutoff can I use NiMH batteries. I have a Spectrum programmer and this setting is the only way to do this. Please will someone tell me.
It depends on the car and how much power it is going to pull from your pack. you can try to use NiMh by removing the cutoff.
What about a 6s 5100mAh battery? I set my lipo alarm to 3.10 and when my alarm goes off after what seems to be a 15 minute drive I bring the battery inside to charge and it's reading 4.08 or so per cell. Why is my alarm going off so soon? Is it possibly inaccurate? Should I use the esc instead? It's a Shogun XP.
Voltage sag. You probably have a low C discharge battery and the esc can't pull enough amps without the voltage sagging.
What kinda of voltages do you recommend for a 2s in say a remote controller? I’m converting my flysky gt5 to lipo and I know with nmh batteries is starts to chime at 4.45
One question. Why do l IPO chargers say they can discharge and allow you too select say 3A but when you started to discharge, they only discharge around .2 or .4 depending on charger. Battery i was using a reference was 1300mah 100c 5s l IPO battery.
Limitation due to discharge wattage.
What might cause battery to have a weak cell? It happens to all of my batteries after just 2 - 4 months 🙁 I'm thinking about 3 things but reason might be different as well: 1. Defective charger, 2. I pull too much power from batteries, 3. I discharge them too much.
What reason could it be, what you think?
I know all Lipo rules about charging, storage...
I set my cut-off to the highest possible. When I come back home I always check cell voltages, it is between 3.4 & 3.5 V/cell (while battery is healthy)
I use good batteries: Gens ace 50c, Turnigy Graphene Panther 75c, CNHL G+plus 70c ⚡
Many reasons for a weak cell. Question is what is a weak cell, what is the metric used and what is the variation?
@@RCexplained First it starts to discharge faster - example of 4s voltages after run:
3.68 3.67 3.66 3.33
After some time it is also charging faster than other cells ⚡
You say the absolute minimum V/cell is 3.00V with no load. So does that mean when highly loaded it's ok to set the cutoff voltage lower than 3.00V, say 2.8V or even lower as the cells will recover to over 3.00V when unloaded?
Yes, but this is very risky. example -how do you know 2.80v/cell will work for your setup. Also, running your battery down below 15-20% capacity already reduces maximum lifespan. Not ideal to spend time at a lower voltage and even pushing it so its literally 3.00v at the end of a run. Your pack is not going to like you if you do this once let alone often.
@@RCexplained Ok, thanks for clarifying.
Question for you - is it true that aggressively discharging LiPo batteries will reduce their IR value? (Or do they just read a lower IR value during a concurrent high-current discharge cycle?)
Discharging a LiPo causes them to heat up depending on how aggressive the rate is. Higher temperatures lead to lower IR's. Increased temps do also lead to lost lifespan.
@@RCexplained that makes sense. So the IR is lower while the battery is hot. I keep seeing these guys looking for the old dischargers that fast discharge the nicads, and they’re saying aggressively cycling their LiPos on there makes them perform better for peak power. I’ve been working with LiPo batteries in power wall and backup power situations, so the idea of cycling high-current discharges on purpose had my brain going, buut nooooooo!!! Haha 😂
Yep totally not required.