Track saw with 2 blades, cuts better than your table saw
Vložit
- čas přidán 31. 05. 2024
- This new track saw will literally give you perfect results and it is truly a game changer. The TSV 60 is the first track saw of its kind with the addition of a diamond tipped scoring blade. It's truly remarkable!
#festoolusa #TSV60 #tracksaw
To find out more about this and other new releases from Festool USA visit
www.festoolusa.com
Sponsored By:
Festool USA - www.festoolusa.com
US Tool and Fastener - www.ustoolandfastener.com
3M Abrasives - lddy.no/1hycd
Titebond - www.titebond.com
Affiliate For:
TSO Products - tsoproducts.com/?aff=5
Taylor Toolworks - lddy.no/1e5hv
Bits and Bits Company - 10% off with code BENTS10 - bit.ly/bitsbitsbw
Jay's Custom Creations - jayscustomcreations.com/produ...
Rubio Monocoat - www.rubiomonocoatusa.com/#ben...
Bidwell Wood and Iron - 10% off with code BENT - bidwellwoodandiron.com
Partnered With:
Hartzell Hardwoods - www.hartzellhardwoods.com
Felder USA - www.felder-group.com/en-us
Find me on social media!
Website: www.bentswoodworking.com
Patreon: / bentswoodworking
Instagram: / bentswoodworking
Green Suiters Podcast: podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast...
These videos are for entertainment purposes only. Bent's Woodworking is not responsible for any viewer trying to recreate something demonstrated in this video. Attempting any of the techniques shown are at the viewers own risk. - Jak na to + styl
Very good review! I actually bought the TSV a few weeks ago and I'm just as impressed with the quality of the cuts. Many people mention the weight difference to the TS60 as something negative, but I have to say I really like working with a bigger and heavier machine!
I've installed an Ikea Kitchen and the panels are a finish on melamine that THIS saw would reduce so many issues. Thanks for the demo!
This track saw, with our kunlun tooth diamond saw blade, the cutting effect will become better
Nice!! Been waiting for this one! Have been on the fence about getting it or just dealing with 2 track saws/ 2 different oriented tracks and blue-tape to get the no-chipout affect.
Thanks Jason. The dilemma is that yes, it's every once in a while, but when using laminate or even thin veneer, sometimes the chip out is obvious when you edge band like you said. And sure, most people probably won't see it at all, especially from distance, but it just screams at you. So is perfection every time worth the trade offs. That's a conundrum.
Thanks. We need to see the setup of both blades on a new guide rail. I wonder if you could use a ruler to set the two blades.
Festool will always be the top dog I just wish I could afford it hahahahha
It really does look like the tracksaw for me, but...
1) What about using a blade best suited for melamine? I was getting glass like cuts in melamine with a 6" = 150 mm blade with 48 teeth in a Kango roofing saw over 30 years ago. Blade matters for best results. I'd get mine resharpened.
2) What if you did a shallow reverse cut without the scoring blade activated before the final cut? Again, I get clean cuts in crude plywood with extremely thin top layer by doing that using a Makita circular saw plus track adapter plus track.
*3) Being longer, I expect it needs longer track for starting and ending clear of a board. 8' = 2,440 mm, so perhaps add 2*14" = 710 mm -> 10' or 3,150 mm of track - expensive in its own right though probably just add a short piece to a long piece.
So, as retiree with time on his hands and lots of cabinets to make for us, daughter, son, and their spouses and families, I'll check out a demonstration show before ordering.
* Typed before running a past the last advert. You and Festool answer this. Price looks good!
First things first: finish daughter's new garden before gk arrives; order ultrasonic cat deterrent to stop our new neighbours' cats fouling our garden; save up for H-class vac to handle cement dust like I've never bothered before; save up for this; make many cabinets for our small old London houses
I have used the shallow reverse cut and indeed it does work relatively well, you're pretty much doing something similar to a first scoring with a scoring blade...
For 48 teeth in 6', indeed it's a tiny bit more than the 48 in 7 1/4 that the festool saw has. Though it can also be the shape of the cutters and other things that make it slightly chip out in melamine...
For track length, festool's longest track is a 3000. You can get at tso a 13" extender if you really want it though I suspect the 3000 is fine. I cut some full plywood sheets with 2800 (two joined 1400 tracks) with my regular saw relatively comfortably. Having 150mm extra at the front would be useful for the inbound part of the cut, and for the outbound, add 50 and it should keep it all good... it doesn't matter as much to slightly go off/ to the edge as the front part of the blade already did its thing and the rear is already aligned.
I'd say the convenience of the scoring blade is probably another big factor, doing these reverse passes (particularly in situation where you need to extend yourself/bend over is no big deal once in a while, but in a higher volume context (professional but not only) it can get real tiring and time consuming...
Well I just got the tsv60 and withe the blade that it comes no need to score it but I guess everything for its purpose but I suppose for having a scoring blade you have the option of having a corser blade 😊
Thank you, Jason. I wonder how is the cut quality on the backside,? Same as topside?
The backside is cut in the opposite direction by the main blade, so I expect it to not do any chip out either, at least that's my experience in general with track saw and delicate materials
What size track guide rails should I have in my beginner home shop to cut large sheets of plywood down? I do not have the money for a table saw after a purchase of this tool.
@2:07 Ah ah. It's just like battle sight zero'ing your iron sights. 27 up, 12 right. Those numbers just popped in to my head, so I'm thinking that's what it was.
My Makita track saw has a scoring function that seems to work well. I use it on ply and thin veneers. So far with great results. However that does not mean there are applications where the Festool would be a better option.
I use the scoring pass on my Makita even when I didn’t need it. It’s very easy to quickly make the pass without even thinking about it. I’ve been in a plywood phase the last two years. Using mostly the cheap plywood and it does amazing on the paper-thin outer veneers.
7× the price worth it ? 🙈😆
@@smooth_ops2942 What? The Makita track saw is right in the middle for price and quality. Best value for a track saw. I prefer the corded version but I’m sure the battery ones are great too.
There's tool crazy people that would buy it just to have it around 😊
Mafell has a scoring feature with their saw
but it's not the same feature -- this is next level
So does every tracksaw have a scoring feature but it requires you to make the scoring cut then do another's pass
This better if you are building mostly cabinets. but most people don't need this. its much cheaper then sliding table saw that has the same features. I build cabinets so this is a great saw you can stack up 3 or 4 sheets and do brakeout or most of your rips all at once.
@@AaronGeller Mafell is just a better track saw
@@Dtonk4609 it’s better in certain ways, but not in this way.
Can’t wait to but a dozen.
it pays for itself after one job.
I bought two and they were paid after two 2 hours afternoons of work
I've seen a couple of these comparing the new saw without the scoring blade cut and then using the scoring blade. Though how does it compare to other models (without a scoring blade) using the limited depth scoring feature. Ie, how much better is this in achievable quality than the tracksaw we already own. Secondly, can a traditional model be as good (with scoring feature) with a dedicated melamine blade. The one pass scoring ability of this saw is superior regardless.
This is very clever. I think it's appropriate for those who want a dedicated melamine saw.
How much heavier is it? Its my only concern. I use this saw every day all day.
Define perfection.
Cool
I cut a lot of multi-ply Finland birch plywood like Colorfin (Koskisen - KoskiDecor) which has a hard phenolic facing on both sides... any thoughts on if this saw would be for me?
If you struggle chipping than yes.
How does it compare with two passes of the standard saw where the first pass is at scoring depth?
I’d be willing to bet it’s the same quality. It’s essentially doing the same thing - running a blade in the opposite direction at scoring depth. This might save a little time if you are processing bulk sheets but it seems as though you can get the same results with a standard track saw using a scoring pass.
@@Andy-iw9su Never going to cut at the exact same place if you do 2 times. And one is supposed to be opposite...
@@martinsvensson6884 a scoring pass at 2mm in reverse direction on a track. Then a full depth pass generates a splinter free cut. I have a slider with a scoring blade and I can get as clean a cut with a track saw as my slider using this method.
Would you recommend this to someone who has home projects (cabinets) all working with sheet goods (both veneered pw and melamine). I only have a contractor table saw…. I have tried several straight edge saw products, but none have really worked.
All Festool track saws are excellent, but this one has the cleanest cuts for fickle surfaces like melamine but also veneered plywood
great review . I set my TS55 to 1 mm to do a scoring cut then on a second pass cut the full depth . I'm wondering If this new scoring blade does a better job than my method?
No, your method is functionality identical to using a see with a scoring blade.
@@calving3867I thought the same. But that's not the case. The scoring blade runs in the opposite direction that the main blade does. So the scoring blade cuts inward the board, like the main blade does If you see it from below. That's the genius of this setup.
@@gonzaloborrat459 Does that do anything aside from helping prevent the saw from running off on you, and sending the dust in 2 different directions? I don't understand why that's genius and functionally different aside from how much the blade is gong to make the saw run off.
@@calving3867 yes It does. Cause the chipping is made when the teeth of the blade come out the board. As the circular saw blade teeth cut the bottom part of the board first and come out at the top, the chipping is made at the top and not at the bottom of the board. As the scoring blade rotates in the opposite direction the teeth cut first into the melamine and come out at the back and have no melamine to chip. Sorry for the long explanation and perhaps not clear. Regards
I do the same set to 1mm but reverse the cut and then forward for the final cut works great everytime
Hello, as i have seen, you are using regular blade for wood. Did you try special one for melamine? I have TS 60 with such blade and very good results. Can you compare TS 60 with blade for melamine with this one? Will be very interesting to see. Thanks
Result is good with melamine blade but not for long time. How many cuts you can make with 100% good result? another thing is the price of that blade which is as twice higher than normal 40 tooth festool blade
Why can’t I just do a scoring cut first with track saw then finish cutting it the second time?
You can, that's your choice. This simplifies matters for those that don't want to do the scoring cut.
Personally this wouldn't be for me either. But for some under time constraints it's going to be a huge time saver.
I agree with the other commenter, but one thing that was missed is that scoring blade actually spins in the opposite direction of the plunge blade. Also, if you have to make a bunch of scoring passes, there is an elevated chance of misaligning for the plunge cut, so now you have a gouge in your material and a lesser quality cut.
So for me the question is how it compares with the Milwaukee and its scoring setting. That is a comparison I would like to see.
which model of Milwaukee?
@@AaronGeller Milwaukee only makes one track saw. It has a scoring setting where you make a scoring pass first before making the full cut. It is a two pass operation but for occasional use makes sense to me. I just wonder if it does as good a job as this new Festool.
@@geraldclayburn8543 I highly doubt it does as good a job. This is a dedicated scoring blade that’s adjustable
Will the scoring blade work on angle cuts?
Yes, and no adjustment nessasary.
Can’t you just score it with the ts60 and make two passes. Hope you do a demo of that.
so is it the diamond blade that is doing the clean cut then? Because why couldn't you do a very shallow depth pass with a regular track saw and say melamine blade then come back with out moving the track and lower the depth of the saw to complete the cut?
Blade turns the other way on the Festool.
that’s literally twice as much work
@@twentykeys people make scoring cuts all the time. Besides one the guide ratio is in place all you have to do is lower your track saw after the scoring cut. Not a terrible situation
@@pctatc66 But it never becomes perfect by doing that.
How does it work with prefinished plywood?
Same way as the melamine
Your scoring blade I think needs to be moved a bit on the right caus there is a little lip visible on the left side of the cut at 6:03
Slightly off topic here. I have the TS55 KEBI with narrow kerf blade. I would like to purchase a TS 75 which has a full kerf blade. There isn't any reason I cant run them on the same track as long as the sides of both blades are adjust perfectly to the rubber guide correct? I read something on FOG that said otherwise, but logically too me, it shouldn't make a difference
Yes, you can calibrate them but it might take a bit of trial and error. Sedge has a video on track saw calibration
@@coolbugfacts1234 Sedge did indeed do a video on it. Also, check out the supplemental manuals under the "knowledge" table on Festool USA
I knew I shouldn't have watched this.. *heads off to the buy one*
I'm afraid to ask how much is the scoring blade. lol. Thanks for the thorough demo.
aprox 200 if I remember correctly
I heard it was a biscuit blade. Same thing in their biscuit cutter.
$89 for what I found.
$200.00 more for the feature vs the other version. $999.00, $1,175 with the track.
Hard to see the difference between the two on a phone screen. Maybe bring the camera to the cuts and move it along closely so use phone CZcams watchers can see it zoomed in.
I don't think it's just your phone, the lighting might not be showing the differences the best
Basically a compression bit... But saws
No plug-it cord, no thankyou. But I don't work with melamine either. If someone asks me to build them something with melamine, I just tell them to go to Ikea.
I'm surprised that many people on here use melamine. Isn't that below festool?
What about additional cuts of the same size? Table saw much better
Parallel edge guides from Festool or multiple other third-party tool manufacturers. No requirement for any infeed and outfeed support or space in the work environment.
There is a far cheaper alternative that has been around for a while which on the 1st run does a scoring cut then cuts through on the 2nd pass, yes it’s 2 passes but prob 1/2 the cost of Festool. Festool are a little late to the party on this.
And which one is it? Do you mean the Makita? But by the Festool the blade is rotatimg in the oposite way than the main blade.
With any track saw you can make a first pass of 1-2 mm depth backwards, then make your cut as usual
@@KarelKubela yeah if i remember correctly it is Makita. Yes the Festool scoring blade does rotate the other way plus is also a diamond blade. Would like to see a comparison between the two to see if the difference is worth the extortionate Festool price
The two pass method is great but in some material I still notice chip out. I expect the smaller diamond blade may improve/solve. As well I like the one-pass approach here to remove any possible variations that might occur with 2 passes.
I have a Makita track saw with the scoring feature (blade stops at 2mm depth for first pass) but still get a tiny bit of chip out. The cool thing about the scoring blade on the festool is it is always doing a climb cut in the opposite direction of the main blade which is the mechanism for the clean cut. My Hammer slider has the same feature.
Unless it has more power than a TS55 I don't think I would buy it.
From what I understand the brushless motor on the 60 is more powerful, so much so that in the US they have to use a fixed cord as to not exceed the amperage rating.
It has
Wow Festool over engineered an already over engineered product to cut cheep melamine!! Lmao😂
Translation: I wish I could afford this
How else are you going to get the same quality end result for $200 more than the basic model tracksaw?
Whilst I appreciate the typical German ingenuity, why not just add a scoring depth stop like Makita did. I used my Mak to cut baltic birch with sans tearout.
I love Festool stuff but it's an expensive addiction.
Because the scoring blade runs in the opposite direction that the main blade does. So the scoring blade cuts inward the board, like the main blade does If you see it from below. That's the genius of this setup.
Overpriced like all Festool products. I’m NOT saying they’re not good tools, I’m saying the way overpriced. Now I’m ready for the hate.
What does overpriced even mean?
@@AaronGelleryou know what it means. The value isn’t reasonable because festool is 50% more expensive than competitors yet it’s only 5% better
@@CraigularjJoeWoodworks how did you arrive at 5%? Never mind, let’s say price is double the competition, do the benefits need to be double, I.E., proportionate? I would argue no because even if the difference is 5% better, the cost is a one time thing, but 5% over 10 years is so significant. It’s hard to put a number on “how much better”, but several features over the course of time can save time and money, and those things are quantifiable.
Sponsorship to actual content ratio has gotten out of whack. Unsubbing.
Exactly my tought. This channel is slowly, not too slowly turning into a adds channel. This is what happen when you become popular and lack of video project idea.
Don't get me wrong I have over 10k of festool tools and love them all. Have a TS55 for almost 6 years and I'm not changing it until it dies. So as new Festool tools Festool USA and sedge are doing a darn good job already.
This video is actual content -- he's not even saying to buy this saw, he actually said most don't need it. People come here to hear his opinions on Festool products (amongst others) and they trust his opinions. You aren't forced to watch this
@mrtapanes me too, sold out and lost my support. Festool can advertise on their own channel. I’m so sick of it I’ll stop buying festool
@@CraigularjJoeWoodworks he’s been using festool for years… but that was never a problem for you?
I don’t know. I appreciate the info. It doesn’t feel like a cringe advertisement to me. There are those that are totally cringe. I don’t think he is here.
If you want cringe, watch sedge. I can’t stand him. I love festool typically but I don’t understand why they keep sedge around.
This track saw, with our kunlun tooth diamond saw blade, the cutting effect will become better